tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90179636726284779092024-02-24T22:26:50.895-10:00Volks on BikesA bicycle journey across North and South AmericaThe Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.comBlogger80125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-86683248831720079722012-06-22T17:32:00.000-10:002012-06-24T16:27:12.614-10:00Beyond "Ushuaia": no longer cycling, but still travelling (April 13 - May 3, 2012)<div align="center">
Ushuaia acted as both meeting place and scene of many goodbyes. Doug and Chris returned to Philadelphia; Sonja flew back to Switzerland after several years on the road; Tom headed to Norway via England; Guillermina returned to Buenos Aires; Greg set off to visit Peninsula Valdes on the Atlantic Coast and Buenos Aires before returning to New York; Jason and Craig headed to Buenos Aires and soon after back to the States; Cat and Jeff headed towards Peninsula Valdes before Cat would return to Kenya and Jeff would pass through Mar del Plata and Mendoza before heading back to the States...</div>
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But Ushuaia, having been the destination for so long, is not actually the end of our trip. There is some irony in this... Ushuaia itself is located over 2500km (over 1500 miles) from Buenos Aires and the nearest airport of any importance. Which means, of course, that one must get from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires (or further) to REALLY end the trip. Even more complicated with a bicycle. </div>
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Most travellers go by air, which is an expensive flight (at least $250 plus extra baggage/bike fees). Since Jason and Jeff haven't worked in nearly 3 years, Tom is broke, Craig hasn't worked in nearly 2 years, and Cat and Greg are on limited budgets, dropping hundreds of dollars for a minor flight before a major flight is not an attractive option. So we all decide to hitchhike from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires, albeit in separate parties... </div>
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the road to Buenos Aires starts right here, Highway 3 at the entrance to Ushuaia. Those tractor-trailers are our first and greatest hope, as we have heard rumors that with a little luck and patience you can find drivers who will take you from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires in one fell swoop.</div>
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...We left Ushuaia on a gorgeous and majestic morning, snow-capped peaks rising above the Beagle Channel...</div>
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using the bike to get to a good hitching spot (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Jeff and Cat got picked up here at the entrance to Ushuaia. This first ride would take us to Rio Grande, a good start.</div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Unfortunately, Rio Grande is kind of a hitching nightmare. We stuck out 6 hours of hitching (spread over 2 days) in really cold temps and wind before we got out of here. The problem is, with two loaded bikes, the only possibilities are empty pick-up trucks, open-bed trailers, and truckers. Which means you need a lot of patience. We nearly lost our minds here, but we were saved in the end.</div>
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the shield of the province of Tierra del Fuego</div>
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just after sunrise in Rio Grande</div>
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a glance towards the Atlantic as we head towards San Sebastian</div>
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arrived at the border at San Sebastian, this truck picked us up and took us beyond Tierra del Fuego up to Rio Gallegos</div>
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our passports were abused by so many crossings of the Chile/Argentina border (13 in all since December)</div>
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the friendly driver (Diego) who took us to Rio Gallegos. Like many Argentine truck drivers (as we would learn), he started trucking at the age of 16 or so.</div>
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crossing the Straits of Magellan again</div>
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chatting it up with the Chilean ferry crew</div>
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awesome silhouette (cab plus two loaded bikes!) backed by Argentine pampa</div>
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From Rio Gallegos, we hitched out from the police post. The Argentine police, in what is an incredible surprise for any American accustomed to abusive and harassing American police, actually HELP hitchhikers to find rides.</div>
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the long Highway 3 as it parallels the Atlantic Coast northbound (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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From Rio Gallegos we got really lucky. We were picked up by a beer truck (empty bottles), which would take us all the way to Puerto Madryn about 1200km north.</div>
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Jeff, Cat, and Christian</div>
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Christian runs bottles between Bahia Blanca and Rio Gallegos</div>
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He is also a prolific mate drinker (mate holder mounted on dashboard near steering column)</div>
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Christian heats his mate water just forward of his stick shift, on a portable heating pad. He does this as he drives - no small feat - which involves steering with his forearms and elbows and a delicate balancing act while he pours almost-boiling water into his mate cup. While this may appear dangerous, it is common among Argentine truck drivers.</div>
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It must be said that flying down the highway, drinking mate, listening to Argentine folk music and sharing travel and life stories while sunset unfolds over the pampa is not a bad way to go.</div>
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From Puerto Madryn we cycled the 100km east to Puerto Pyramides (seen here), located on Peninsula Valdes.</div>
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Our first stop on the peninsula is the sea lion colony outside P. Pyramides<br />
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...these sea lions are snorting, grunting, and bellowing ceaselessly (photo: Cat Magill)...</div>
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... sunset skies on Peninsula Valdes...</div>
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...in Puerto Pyramides we were welcomed by the local fire company...</div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Sergio, the most outgoing of the firemen, prepared us meals of fish and shrimp and regaled us with stories and local lore (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Peninsula Valdes, located on the Atlantic Coast of Patagonia, is legendary for its wildlife populations. Southern right whales (unfortunately we are in the wrong season), elephant seals, orca whales, sea lions, Magellan penguins, and loads of sea birds are all found here in abundance.</div>
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the singular shape of Peninsula Valdes. The red box is Caleta Valdes, our (unplanned) next destination...</div>
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intending to hitch to Punta Norte, instead our first ride took us to this estancia at Caleta Valdes (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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our host, Parmer (photo: Cat Magill), helps maintain the estancia, which he has been doing for over 40 years. </div>
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Parmer shows us around the sheep pens and shearing facilities at the estancia (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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the owner of the estancia owns 30000! sheep on the peninsula (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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many-decades-old buildings at the estancia</div>
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one of Parmer's pals</div>
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the sublime setting of Caleta Valdes</div>
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luckily for us, the Magellan Penguin colony is located just next to the estancia</div>
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Unlike our quest to see Magellan Penguins in Chile, we got lucky here, as some of the penguins hadn't migrated yet (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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...expressive penguin waking from his nap and stretching (photos: Cat Magill)...</div>
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The penguins nest in small burrows in the hillside, just meters from where we are standing</div>
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Caleta Valdes is also known for its incredible Elephant Seal viewing. Although these pictured are juveniles, full grown males can attain 5 tons in weight and 20 feet in length.</div>
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When we returned to the estancia, Parmer had generously caught and prepared us a meal of fresh fish:</div>
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(photos: Cat Magill)</div>
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breaded and fried and absolutely delicious</div>
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luminous sunrise over Caleta Valdes</div>
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armadillo seen at Punta Norte</div>
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Punta Norte is famous for its onshore sightings of orca whales attacking juvenile sea lions. We saw an orca approaching a sea lion colony, but no attacks. Greg on the other hand, who was here two weeks before us, saw a series of repeated (and successful) orca attacks one afternoon.</div>
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...back in Puerto Pyramides, Sergio gives Jeff detailed instructions on how to prepare mate correctly (photos: Cat Magill)...</div>
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Sergio decided Jeff's pants - used clothes bought in Antigua, Guatemala's public market 18 months previous and taken through hell and back - were worthy of display (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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father-and-son truckers picked us up at Puerto Madryn, heading north</div>
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...we made it 45 km before the truck broke down after a series of spasms...</div>
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...stranded roadside, truck status: BAD... </div>
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we decided to move on and leave dad-and-son behind</div>
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...this trucker plucked us off the road and took us forward...</div>
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another pampa sunset seen from cab windows</div>
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At midnight in Bahia Blanca, Cat heads off in this truck to Buenos Aires and on to Kenya</div>
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Jeff continued towards Necochea, getting a ride in this pickup truck<br />
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Luis Ugolini, father of Santiago Ugolini, Jeff's former flatmate in Barcelona. Luis has agreed to watch Jeff's bike for the next 5 months... </div>
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now reduced to a backpacker with a guitar</div>
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hitching from Mar del Plata to Mendoza, Jeff saw this "hot water" machine at a truck stop on the road. Nearly every trucker refills their thermos at these points so they can drink mate while resting and while driving.</div>
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This friendly trucker took Jeff from Mar del Plata to Bahia Blanca. Hitching with truck drivers in Argentina is an excellent way to learn the culture and diversity of the country. These guys are from all corners of Argentina and often know the country like the back of their hands. </div>
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a kindred spirit. Juan is a young Argentine who is hitching north to Missiones.</div>
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...street dog hanging out with us friendly hitchhikers...</div>
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visiting friend Jesica Sarmiento in Mendoza</div>
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finally, on May 3rd, 2012, the flight back, an emphatic end to 34 months of travel... this leg from Mendoza to Santiago, Chile passes over the highest peaks in the hemisphere... passing close by Aconcagua and Tupungato and over the phenomenal Andes...</div>
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</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-91584893216506366062012-06-12T10:56:00.000-10:002012-06-12T10:56:53.116-10:00In Ushuaia (March 17-22, April 9-12, 2012)<div align="center">
In Ushuaia, Doug and Chris came down to celebrate our arrival and trip completion. Renting a house for nearly a week, we were able to assemble many characters from recent months: in addition to Jason and Jeff, we had Tom, Greg, Cat, Sonja, Craig and Guillermina in the house. A perfect recipe for some gourmet meals, music, and lots of storytelling...</div>
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Jason and Doug caught these brown sea trout in Tierra del Fuego National Park near Ushuaia and cooked 'em up...</div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Cat and Jeff made homemade soft pretzels and served 'em up with spicy mustard sauce <br />
(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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we took a dayhike to the Martial Glacier which rises dramatically behind Ushuaia <br />
(photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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gorgeous southern beech forest<br />
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autumn beech leaves (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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the view over Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel. Ushuaia sits on the Beagle Channel, named after the <em>Beagle</em>, which carried Charles Darwin to this area in 1833.<em> </em></div>
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another look down from Martial Glacier<br />
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Doug tells wacky stories to Sonja, Tom and Cat, backed by the glacier </div>
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Chris, Jeff and Doug (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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The End of the World, nearly. The most southernly human settlement on the planet is not Ushuaia (midground), but Puerto Williams (background far left, barely visible), which is across the Beagle Channel in Chilean territory. (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Chris and Doug (photo: Cat Magill). Before Ushuaia, they had visited Buenos Aires, Mendoza and Iguazo Falls on this trip. They hosted a fantastic week in Ushuaia, thank you!</div>
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Ushuaia. A relief for us, a real Argentine city with real people, not just a tourist creation like El Chalten and El Calafate.<br />
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sunrise in Ushuaia</div>
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... hallucinatory views of Ushuaia and the Martial Mountain range behind it...</div>
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Ushuaia marked the last time these individuals would be playing together for a long time, so we made the most of it and had some memorable jams in the house...</div>
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... gettin' deep in the groove... (photos: Cat Magill)</div>
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We played through a long session of songs that have accompanied and inspired - and been inspired by - our trip during the previous 18 months (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Jason and Jeff, while Chris listens on (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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a specialty of these parts: <em>Centolla</em>, or Chilean King Crab, seen in a restaurant window in Ushuaia</div>
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This sign from near San Sebastian says: "Las malvinas son argentinas", or, as it were, "The Falklands Islands belong to Argentina". This is a hot topic in Argentina... which is demanding the return of the islands from the UK to Argentina. </div>
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This sticker promotes Ushuaia as the capital of the Falklands. At least it was (briefly) in Argentine geopolitical structuring until 1833, when the British occupied the Falklands. </div>
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Argentina refuses UK control of the islands, and proceeds as if they were Argentine. Any map produced by Argentina claims the islands as their own.</div>
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"Guillermo Go Home!" Or, get the hell out of here, Prince William! (William was doing military training in the Falklands in recent months) [seen on shop window in Ushuaia] <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPF3yzNZh3ZMabcubbFpJE9Q0pi5APh9GH5hOIYz9Q_LF7JuPsac23P4_9_sm_L44F_eOUHHUs6YjcVxVoYiXgSDZkC8Tv37bUFEYGqFopvyS24WJfrbyxtjxSbIqIEjGndA6_GiElOQ/s1600/DSCN7421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPF3yzNZh3ZMabcubbFpJE9Q0pi5APh9GH5hOIYz9Q_LF7JuPsac23P4_9_sm_L44F_eOUHHUs6YjcVxVoYiXgSDZkC8Tv37bUFEYGqFopvyS24WJfrbyxtjxSbIqIEjGndA6_GiElOQ/s200/DSCN7421.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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in Ushuaia there is a plaza dedicated to the Falklands in honor of the 30th Anniversary of Argentina's failed attempt to wrest the islands from British hands in 1982. The Argentine invasion, which was ill-advised and ill-planned (soldiers had ancient malfunctioning guns, for example), has been shown to have been a national unifying strategy by the military dictatorship of that era in Argentina, to deflect attention from a poor economy (they took this one from the USA playbook). However, it has been taken up as a theme of Argentine pride, and some Argentines actually think that the <em>UK</em> invaded the Falklands in 1982! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvizVIR56kCElwE2NdIvC85wfwDoTJML8vbPJTDyEb4SYETJm_xsbIecsMG_3wgUUHg7Spa6nCD6B1tpxskuvXF8F7O_3_co1GEoOuWMDtT_TpaMRpV87Pav8WHbuw5nlEos66crQHug/s1600/DSCN7427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvizVIR56kCElwE2NdIvC85wfwDoTJML8vbPJTDyEb4SYETJm_xsbIecsMG_3wgUUHg7Spa6nCD6B1tpxskuvXF8F7O_3_co1GEoOuWMDtT_TpaMRpV87Pav8WHbuw5nlEos66crQHug/s320/DSCN7427.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
... War photos. In this image Argentine soldiers have taken British prisoners... the caption below gives an idea of the propaganda occurring in Argentina...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRffInVdtobpp3LuAgxgw5Ch3Gnjn8o42Cajro4Rb9_gDAe3-hMBNxtNEmuaX9cAA0UJTS6ODG1RKSIDw8WpuWdh_ygXWGAuQxezRBuORkb9hI4QlwDvomyZWdO2PwJ56dY4Qrrc2IIg/s1600/DSCN7426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRffInVdtobpp3LuAgxgw5Ch3Gnjn8o42Cajro4Rb9_gDAe3-hMBNxtNEmuaX9cAA0UJTS6ODG1RKSIDw8WpuWdh_ygXWGAuQxezRBuORkb9hI4QlwDvomyZWdO2PwJ56dY4Qrrc2IIg/s200/DSCN7426.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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"An image that was hard on British pride". That's a funny statement coming from the losing side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt38M11cRy7JMlprfEPV-i5ouUTugpUESugCHJ9gJkWYTsp65Iavr7Urv3ZrscE1Cd9mXWbINMfctIVBJ6WShSl_r9klV7Bo_kZOt7mnY_qCwwKdRdpXSyLA43OJ15DHQ6zocmPCHpCA/s1600/DSCN7430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt38M11cRy7JMlprfEPV-i5ouUTugpUESugCHJ9gJkWYTsp65Iavr7Urv3ZrscE1Cd9mXWbINMfctIVBJ6WShSl_r9klV7Bo_kZOt7mnY_qCwwKdRdpXSyLA43OJ15DHQ6zocmPCHpCA/s200/DSCN7430.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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the sinking of the Argentine battleship General Belgrano (formerly USS Phoenix from World War II), a decisive moment in the war in which 323 Argentine soldiers were killed.</div>
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the propaganda spreads beyond Ushuaia to Tolhuin (and much further afield): this is the Tolhuin Public Library.(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Further complicating this issue is that the islands went from Dutch (1600) to French (1764) to British (1765) to Spanish (1767) to Argentine (1816, 1828) to British control by 1833. Nowadays, the population of the islands is just over 3000 and the residents are emphatic about remaining under UK control; nonetheless Argentina is adamant about the return of the islands to their possession.</div>
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<br /></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-13431097985212498192012-06-05T15:20:00.003-10:002012-06-06T17:56:41.430-10:00Segment 58: Punta Arenas, Chile to Ushuaia, Argentina (April 3-9, 2012)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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From Punta Arenas the road to Ushuaia starts with a crossing of the Straits of Magellan, which connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans... this crossing will drop us on the island of Tierra del Fuego...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhudUpuPK6gS4-_Tsr9I2CDEHyn_lXNHi0clYx3okVoUUaoqWfAJ0xe64-qSnUqyCK1VpLo0_aFUfryvN2w7Icgc5sldKTt050AGwOPpzhqFeRUjE9WwONl94ccmb-8z5CiSw7TEf2yBw/s1600/DSCN0666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhudUpuPK6gS4-_Tsr9I2CDEHyn_lXNHi0clYx3okVoUUaoqWfAJ0xe64-qSnUqyCK1VpLo0_aFUfryvN2w7Icgc5sldKTt050AGwOPpzhqFeRUjE9WwONl94ccmb-8z5CiSw7TEf2yBw/s320/DSCN0666.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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(photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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the ferry trip lasts about 2.5 hours (photo: Cat Magill). The Straits of Magellan is completely under the control of Chile.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1NuRfOJFWnB9U8v44aC0qUz_0HsblrLSkPPXFGVtyKdb_QK5pCI06PNER_Zj6AGGhZHRfkjNZxv5ADdnURfaJ-qk4KZdyOwZ1NWCqv-44iX6lvvTLmvVmOSflHbvYt6wMdbz83jxkbg/s1600/DSC_0805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1NuRfOJFWnB9U8v44aC0qUz_0HsblrLSkPPXFGVtyKdb_QK5pCI06PNER_Zj6AGGhZHRfkjNZxv5ADdnURfaJ-qk4KZdyOwZ1NWCqv-44iX6lvvTLmvVmOSflHbvYt6wMdbz83jxkbg/s200/DSC_0805.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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landed on Tierra del Fuego, this is the port at Porvenir. Tierra del Fuego is an island shaped roughly like a triangle, with the western two-thirds belonging to Chile and the southeastern part to Argentina.</div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uU7443nAyMxuzteVgzdO_yO266em1u5S9-6OURGsKLGK1f7fkHtNNHwljuWBMVjpWnOM_ylrsdeToYCBYx1gn2ePLfk7OX8vsHluQ_EPXvXaFPGY399-lTb5gS-AOXxYguIPqtiVhA/s1600/DSCN7068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uU7443nAyMxuzteVgzdO_yO266em1u5S9-6OURGsKLGK1f7fkHtNNHwljuWBMVjpWnOM_ylrsdeToYCBYx1gn2ePLfk7OX8vsHluQ_EPXvXaFPGY399-lTb5gS-AOXxYguIPqtiVhA/s320/DSCN7068.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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looking down on Porvenir</div>
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on the route out of Porvenir (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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Coscoroba Swans </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzkn9fdllBMvBUPauzgbXYlrulgsECxnyW9p7j2uL2Fhafaxn9lG0RTn-dH7vDB17ZZBRioAqkxUjaNUOiZbgId2AuSYYEDLcncfvMfgqyVQ2pgdKWacENrSxmxk5E-U7eqpP_xp8OGA/s1600/DSC_0819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzkn9fdllBMvBUPauzgbXYlrulgsECxnyW9p7j2uL2Fhafaxn9lG0RTn-dH7vDB17ZZBRioAqkxUjaNUOiZbgId2AuSYYEDLcncfvMfgqyVQ2pgdKWacENrSxmxk5E-U7eqpP_xp8OGA/s320/DSC_0819.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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shanty fishing village (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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...paralleling the coast...</div>
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great dirt riding (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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local dwelling, seemingly abandoned</div>
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riding straight towards Bahia Inutil (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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these were introduced to Tierra del Fuego in the late 1800's (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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mostly flat terrain, and foreboding weather</div>
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... we hunkered down in this booth for the night, hiding from a cruel whipping wind and low temps...</div>
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astonishing skies at sunset</div>
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continuing east towards Onaisin</div>
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more proof of the nasty winds here</div>
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we had a six-cyclist wind-refuge pile-up at this crossroads near Onaisin. Two Germans, heading east like us; and two Poles on a tandem, miserably heading west into a monster headwind. A headwind so bad, that they were effectively stuck here for many hours.</div>
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from Onaisin, we went to look for King Penguins which reputedly have a small colony here on Bahia Inutil. This is the only King Penguin colony found north of Antarctica, so we are eager to find them.</div>
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our search starts here, where we walked a few km on the beach without a sign of anything really</div>
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we stumbled into this dead penguin (not King but Magellan); not sure if this is a good sign or a bad one</div>
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fresh penguin tracks!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtgbUC6PgHLb-v4Xuzlc24oW4joUm0yh2qomjkSeIKn85RNNTn65xHpjs84CWyKOupYHxZTBsOKGudqJ4BHD1qdMFLMGA4YbdcPXIlnWTdR-2JTZXMrznkgMsS0b2UusqD3eQdSmMJuA/s1600/DSC_0906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtgbUC6PgHLb-v4Xuzlc24oW4joUm0yh2qomjkSeIKn85RNNTn65xHpjs84CWyKOupYHxZTBsOKGudqJ4BHD1qdMFLMGA4YbdcPXIlnWTdR-2JTZXMrznkgMsS0b2UusqD3eQdSmMJuA/s320/DSC_0906.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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a mythical moment. We found the colony, huddled and active here, and backed by a huge full rainbow.<br />
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King Penguins (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht8Rp0eTY_48tMhXeueY12Zld5OtzgjHsG81oBUoJ2ijJu1dahOkmm5lhHJWMeC0u7TRqWbUE2NiNJmpvFPiMxc5m13KZn9iOo7Lh89tjSLLntaBZWfUMx-LN_W9DNfWS_okZlUwc6nw/s1600/DSCN7185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht8Rp0eTY_48tMhXeueY12Zld5OtzgjHsG81oBUoJ2ijJu1dahOkmm5lhHJWMeC0u7TRqWbUE2NiNJmpvFPiMxc5m13KZn9iOo7Lh89tjSLLntaBZWfUMx-LN_W9DNfWS_okZlUwc6nw/s200/DSCN7185.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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... this was really too good to be true...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPi3m2do_CHDa5U5Ok7K8ox-jEHtXWAt8GRHj2XWEUWnYE1wjmroljaCi7X64F-hOgsghKzun484nbCSCKhw0TsTxM5mARUb0zSpfwCvydg_IFZexN1frLhEJm5O5OvkIjHhbjatJYjA/s1600/DSC_0965.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPi3m2do_CHDa5U5Ok7K8ox-jEHtXWAt8GRHj2XWEUWnYE1wjmroljaCi7X64F-hOgsghKzun484nbCSCKhw0TsTxM5mARUb0zSpfwCvydg_IFZexN1frLhEJm5O5OvkIjHhbjatJYjA/s320/DSC_0965.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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... this is a small colony, apparently numbering around 40-50 adults, of which we saw 18...</div>
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the reserve is on private property, a property which charges over $25 to see the penguins, to the dismay of everyone who passes by here. Not today, chumps; no one is around so we have a free pass.</div>
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at dusk we knocked on a door at a large mostly-abandoned estancia at Onaisin, and were welcomed into a mostly-defunct sheep farm. We slept here in the empty dormitory for the farmhands, who last shore the sheep in September.</div>
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heading east towards San Sebastian</div>
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flamingos on Tierra Del Fuego</div>
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Chilean estancia</div>
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lots of sprawling pampa here in Chilean Tierra del Fuego</div>
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crossing the border once again into Argentina, we found ourselves getting ever closer to Ushuaia; from here 294 more km (if you can trust the sign, which you can't, in either Chile OR Argentina)</div>
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looking east towards the Atlantic now</div>
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double-decker sheep truck! (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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watch for guanacos crossing</div>
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Estancia la Sara, on the way to Rio Grande (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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back on pavement now, all the way to Ushuaia (photo: Cat Magill). Fighting a tough crosswind.<br />
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between San Sebastian and Rio Grande, we hit this widened patch of Highway 3, which was used by the Argentine air force to launch planes in its (failed) invasion of the Falkland Islands in 1982.</div>
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...sunset colors with a near full moon...</div>
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We pulled into Rio Grande at dark...</div>
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... this statue commemorates the history of Rio Grande as a sheepraising community. In recent times, however, it is a sprawling city built on petroleum and natural gas extraction.</div>
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the nearly full moon above the Atlantic at Rio Grande</div>
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crossing the Rio Grande</div>
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a glance back at Rio Grande; this is flat, treeless, windy country<br />
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Jeff drinking beer and mate with two farmhands from the northeastern Argentine province of Missiones (they are 4000km from home), Rogelio and Nego. Rogelio, who is drunk on beer and wine, insists on speaking to us in Brazilian Portuguese. Nego is so drunk you can't make head or tails out of what comes out of his mouth. These guys, known as <em>peones</em> in estancia culture, have welcomed us into this estancia for the night (Estancia Viamonte). (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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we slept in the cook's house, but she was away as this is Semana Santa/ Easter weekend (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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... a glimpse into Tierra del Fuego history... kitchen implements above... (photos: Cat Magill)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKaMhJFRCv5_HIAPe4Yxx_urk6FTmBpLIrz2KBCY4SVqHsyYgysTIqS6X3AwxGl1pr4d-Bqce4FK-FuTM10S1fHUhdXVJA9_SYc0afIKkrI9v84Mq-Rd877WJIqqkpogkvoBFFe1bNw/s1600/DSC_1073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKaMhJFRCv5_HIAPe4Yxx_urk6FTmBpLIrz2KBCY4SVqHsyYgysTIqS6X3AwxGl1pr4d-Bqce4FK-FuTM10S1fHUhdXVJA9_SYc0afIKkrI9v84Mq-Rd877WJIqqkpogkvoBFFe1bNw/s200/DSC_1073.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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...and here the enormous stove, which runs on natural gas which runs at full blast 24/7/365... such a contrast to Chilean Patagonia, where the people still live on woodstoves and pay very high costs of living. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggyoWEGZFltdKl7aMf1tr0Jr8fg1JSZyzOt9nzcviwxgMcji7F5YdpiP1601jTYhAHZ7LeBBZeHZlROzjbpS94cy0FPKBObAOJ2z60PVbox9LABRKUhVn6Pq7xL5kqk7uXWhQ8CSbdhQ/s1600/DSC_1080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggyoWEGZFltdKl7aMf1tr0Jr8fg1JSZyzOt9nzcviwxgMcji7F5YdpiP1601jTYhAHZ7LeBBZeHZlROzjbpS94cy0FPKBObAOJ2z60PVbox9LABRKUhVn6Pq7xL5kqk7uXWhQ8CSbdhQ/s320/DSC_1080.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cat and a farmhand from Chubut (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfdF4CV5-_5cwaweZy8jUV-h5mJOXb6OyP7L7DHZ4Km7dxgaFoUOSsNke-T2s9fRElJgvAy7XMu_Zni4zqurG6yV7NloSkLC0Klcc0Ny3h0ElQ_Oxoo6TMiDYUfASK7CftqlTfI_JdLA/s1600/DSC_1085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfdF4CV5-_5cwaweZy8jUV-h5mJOXb6OyP7L7DHZ4Km7dxgaFoUOSsNke-T2s9fRElJgvAy7XMu_Zni4zqurG6yV7NloSkLC0Klcc0Ny3h0ElQ_Oxoo6TMiDYUfASK7CftqlTfI_JdLA/s200/DSC_1085.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Jeff drinking mate (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6oxetudR6lGB5yKMI3qMRhsLg4SEUDZIzlswIGwIrUsY5inTihtCHV94JwOFL62nzYlTNPbyhA5se2j1b2jzqYgLQM91h6fZB3sjYEVT6b1PAOkfcpswLcpEz09mUkRwtUMpGCIYUVw/s1600/DSC_1096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6oxetudR6lGB5yKMI3qMRhsLg4SEUDZIzlswIGwIrUsY5inTihtCHV94JwOFL62nzYlTNPbyhA5se2j1b2jzqYgLQM91h6fZB3sjYEVT6b1PAOkfcpswLcpEz09mUkRwtUMpGCIYUVw/s200/DSC_1096.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Nego prepared us a lunch of oven-roasted potatoes and vegetables as it rained outside (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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the <em>comedor</em> where we slept at Estancia Viamonte</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiex-Ut_cvZ7vmipnnIzzRF1UbA81eGtgFdPWnycbVaitxNtEXaEHBUhkiYHmnp0hvifLFoejRR1NS-B_1sFdZ3zipRz4S39z9CZqx0wpE3Nd4BGB2TGpK1Y0_JlsZdtxhwvjGLxU1n5A/s1600/DSCN7301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiex-Ut_cvZ7vmipnnIzzRF1UbA81eGtgFdPWnycbVaitxNtEXaEHBUhkiYHmnp0hvifLFoejRR1NS-B_1sFdZ3zipRz4S39z9CZqx0wpE3Nd4BGB2TGpK1Y0_JlsZdtxhwvjGLxU1n5A/s320/DSCN7301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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riding in the rain, we encountered a long stream of auto traffic (boo!) heading the other direction (north); moments later we found out why...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjubkRUMzaqnfDTQpnT44aFAdmcc-wnlbXL_g5dMV6kblmitM-NiGKNkKW6M0EFxO6WZQBu8F706EeDSr_jGst-ajO_2Wq9450y5zYk_bNTAI4YsOhsNSEZ-elAjF97mDT1M7NuwA0bmA/s1600/DSCN7306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjubkRUMzaqnfDTQpnT44aFAdmcc-wnlbXL_g5dMV6kblmitM-NiGKNkKW6M0EFxO6WZQBu8F706EeDSr_jGst-ajO_2Wq9450y5zYk_bNTAI4YsOhsNSEZ-elAjF97mDT1M7NuwA0bmA/s320/DSCN7306.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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...Semana Santa in Argentine Tierra del Fuego is the scene of a very popular dirtbike race from Ushuaia to Rio Grande...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJvhf9Iq0FRRPA0IoaieQc719PwfrzNnjd-l7gJDr6Ig30fBrfpTxmHl6I59t4JvcpqbzFyOtFXaT1BfzROF_bmdYqepY9s7rYdexNUUfNP6fRNaj5liARaFfm93MVKCz7aGxMKsa8Vg/s1600/DSC_1102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJvhf9Iq0FRRPA0IoaieQc719PwfrzNnjd-l7gJDr6Ig30fBrfpTxmHl6I59t4JvcpqbzFyOtFXaT1BfzROF_bmdYqepY9s7rYdexNUUfNP6fRNaj5liARaFfm93MVKCz7aGxMKsa8Vg/s200/DSC_1102.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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this forest, which we encountered between Rio Grande and Tolhuin, marks the first trees (not planted) that we have seen since near Puerto Natales some 700km previous</div>
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the empanada-making station at Panaderia La Union in Tolhuin (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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leaving Tolhuin, only 102km to go<br />
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...Heading west now, alongside Lago Fagnano...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFIvcsh0Ck4D3RXS3_duKddJOJvag_Cywtma03h62FJvPHUPcWYjgzoTqWlDEZLLjvNY325okAn5LH78vwkbf3xowPOEHqry-F95GsqShh9iU6JW8DXBen6F-jOS3adk22_wCLS05mdg/s1600/DSC_1121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFIvcsh0Ck4D3RXS3_duKddJOJvag_Cywtma03h62FJvPHUPcWYjgzoTqWlDEZLLjvNY325okAn5LH78vwkbf3xowPOEHqry-F95GsqShh9iU6JW8DXBen6F-jOS3adk22_wCLS05mdg/s200/DSC_1121.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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snowcapped Andes peaks above beaver ponds</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_CuaY4YBs-zm6OaueWNjTf267OI1LR8bw-oO_RWlo-qduix-UgfRLay5-t7PNUnNxArB0f-vbhllhyphenhyphenuJrFRhV9dwKFZur87t-t-B2AiHs1l4IXf6Z-kbtMwRdTvRV4bwfZkMwPhchQ/s1600/DSCN7337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_CuaY4YBs-zm6OaueWNjTf267OI1LR8bw-oO_RWlo-qduix-UgfRLay5-t7PNUnNxArB0f-vbhllhyphenhyphenuJrFRhV9dwKFZur87t-t-B2AiHs1l4IXf6Z-kbtMwRdTvRV4bwfZkMwPhchQ/s200/DSCN7337.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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enjoying mostly clear weather</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf7XbMiuqZ27pqrCS1yufmdDuJp-4XM6DvvYA6rW8WVufCSl8jNHcmH0lx_jKYBh7Vanb09xBu0KdkAs83mGYyGa-WHNqE_M47Pnt55Md_SzGbiOA52TqPk1WeIu4EWQybgayizpa01Q/s1600/DSC_1138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf7XbMiuqZ27pqrCS1yufmdDuJp-4XM6DvvYA6rW8WVufCSl8jNHcmH0lx_jKYBh7Vanb09xBu0KdkAs83mGYyGa-WHNqE_M47Pnt55Md_SzGbiOA52TqPk1WeIu4EWQybgayizpa01Q/s400/DSC_1138.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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what could be better than to end your trip on a road that leads away like this?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-yFKPmcuNGROR6Rbwtq9xe40GW_IhocNcZXH0O1HQxR2twX5B6SCIEzcgoR-XchLXCcaIMlCZokODZHmm3PhAD_WUBAEb4FLCwppTpQ48PkWK7g2q8yME02pcqNQ5l8bX5R33i86bA/s1600/DSC_1143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-yFKPmcuNGROR6Rbwtq9xe40GW_IhocNcZXH0O1HQxR2twX5B6SCIEzcgoR-XchLXCcaIMlCZokODZHmm3PhAD_WUBAEb4FLCwppTpQ48PkWK7g2q8yME02pcqNQ5l8bX5R33i86bA/s200/DSC_1143.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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about 50km east of Ushuaia, we spent the night with the friendly crew of the Defensa Civil, a post which exists to provide emergency help along this stretch of Highway 3.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR0s-Et5s1AhV_QgvV7zdEt9KbptdUn_cByoALuTbJ3p0qNxiLPwRYtnDzaA_8PKLwWknzA1QHWRL56H6srgQ-WZH8msGtqtapzFXwraBZwYBm7htF-A6ODsc62TTHMRjvQ8pRzH0rKQ/s1600/DSCN7355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR0s-Et5s1AhV_QgvV7zdEt9KbptdUn_cByoALuTbJ3p0qNxiLPwRYtnDzaA_8PKLwWknzA1QHWRL56H6srgQ-WZH8msGtqtapzFXwraBZwYBm7htF-A6ODsc62TTHMRjvQ8pRzH0rKQ/s320/DSCN7355.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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now on the final day cycling! beautiful scenery and low traffic</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmkmksmDEFj2jm-1QIr6hkMqhR22iJXetMeqJ5IM9IXsXoSI1EAzdMPIhoGIKytAi6qQPO3pmjlxDeW6jHrt1IlbU_rsjfxiMV_qt6Bi0JCo-3oFYo8lctk4vnxLZGSqmuMOGZMvj-uA/s1600/DSC_1150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmkmksmDEFj2jm-1QIr6hkMqhR22iJXetMeqJ5IM9IXsXoSI1EAzdMPIhoGIKytAi6qQPO3pmjlxDeW6jHrt1IlbU_rsjfxiMV_qt6Bi0JCo-3oFYo8lctk4vnxLZGSqmuMOGZMvj-uA/s400/DSC_1150.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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the western end of Lago Fagnano (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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...hard as it is to believe, we make our final real climb of the trip here, up to Paso Garibaldi...</div>
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... altitude: 500m, approx.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8h4ESt-VB3dxHXWKTpFGwtARelfmVXFHFCUPvUB72K8MsWARZgzwGOiMbzPqgv4h_eLXn-zvdegi3tEGOOZ2-e3ZLrl0ZKUbNSFSOoRSLsD0dWaL-6TUlkCunFzsjtCbtQxMENzi1Ww/s1600/DSC_1159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8h4ESt-VB3dxHXWKTpFGwtARelfmVXFHFCUPvUB72K8MsWARZgzwGOiMbzPqgv4h_eLXn-zvdegi3tEGOOZ2-e3ZLrl0ZKUbNSFSOoRSLsD0dWaL-6TUlkCunFzsjtCbtQxMENzi1Ww/s400/DSC_1159.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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... brilliant fall colors of Southern beech forests (photo: Cat Magill)...</div>
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... backed by stunning peaks</div>
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about 15km from Ushuaia we passed this spectacular range (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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... a fitting finale: on the last curve before the descent into Ushuaia, we pass a series of roadside patron saint shrines, the largest of which belongs to Gauchito Gil...</div>
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this place was covered with figurines of Gil</div>
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arrived at the entrance to Ushuaia, mid-afternoon, 9 April, 2012. For Cat, this marks the completion of a 5000km-plus ride from Salta to Ushuaia. For Jeff, this caps a 1000-day-plus, 17 country, 40000km-plus journey started on 2 July, 2009. A very satisfying moment, and relieving... time to rest from the elements, and the road. </div>
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this painting seen entering Ushuaia recalls the history of Ushuaia as a prisoners' colony (photo: Cat Magill)<br />
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we slept our first night in Ushuaia in one of these carnival booths just a few blocks from the center of town (photo: Cat Magill)</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-89124463220908276122012-05-26T18:22:00.002-10:002012-05-29T19:37:44.655-10:00Segment 57: El Calafate, Argentina to Punta Arenas, Chile (March 25- April 2, 2012)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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El Calafate is on the tourist map for one reason: it is the nearest place from which to visit the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of Argentina's, and Patagonia's, most famous attractions. However, as it is 80km west of El Calafate (far off our route), into a backbreaking and unpitying headwind, we decided to rest our bikes in El Calafate and hitch out to the glacier.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2S8mafjNpj44luZIppagS8Rh3gUpKI8-c0BQ_qhPuqZuidSv4gQcxtu8PMgVvJUnoUhqkXXo1IVa2IOOxlk_ZTdTHe8lhM39WfnZBbALdXjW1RFAO6yB5jwa8csmg7okDVdd_YBfHjw/s1600/DSCN6750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2S8mafjNpj44luZIppagS8Rh3gUpKI8-c0BQ_qhPuqZuidSv4gQcxtu8PMgVvJUnoUhqkXXo1IVa2IOOxlk_ZTdTHe8lhM39WfnZBbALdXjW1RFAO6yB5jwa8csmg7okDVdd_YBfHjw/s320/DSCN6750.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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sometimes the Argentina precordillera seems more like Arizona country (on our way to the glacier)</div>
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Perito Moreno Glacier from a distance (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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as you can see, this glacier comes roaring out of the Southern Patagonia Icefield and ends abruptly at Lago Argentino (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, which includes the Perito Moreno Glacier, has built a multi-level viewing platform for visitors. Doesn't justify the 100 peso/25 dollar (per day) entrance fee, though.</div>
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If you station yourself here for awhile, like an hour or two, with any luck you will see huge portions of the glacier front come crashing off into the lake, immediately forming icebergs (photo: Greg Altman). The glacier wall where it meets the lake averages 74m (240ft.) in height.</div>
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we watched the glacier for over 3 hours...</div>
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... as it would move from moments of inactivity into brief flashes of noise and stunning collapses with creaks and groans, breaks, and sometimes echoing explosions (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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(photo:Cat Magill)</div>
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a parting look at the glacier (photo: Greg Altman). It is over 5 km (3 miles plus) wide.</div>
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Above: Old El Calafate. A small village which tied together various estancias, all dedicated to sheep ranching, and which would have featured characters like the one above.</div>
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Below: New El Calafate. A sprawling, poorly-planned, quickly-growing mass tourism spot with little soul. To make matters worse, horrible subdivisions popping up along Lago Argentino...</div>
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El Calafate seen while riding away<br />
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A handful of kms from El Calafate, we came across this fascinating shrine to San La Muerte, yet another Argentine pagan saint (from the northeastern provinces of the country). Its resemblance to the Mexican Santa Muerte is striking, although the Argentine version is a male skeleton, while the Mexican is female.</div>
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San la Muerte (photo:Cat Magill). Apparently, San la Muerte can interact for his followers during crises of love, health, and fortune, and can protect them from witchcraft.</div>
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"Thanks, San La Muerte". This shrine was erected by an Argentine from the northeastern part of the country who has moved to El Calafate following employment and higher wages. We would see this trend in various parts of Patagonian Argentina: the pronounced southern migration of northerners.</div>
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the cordillera rises dramatically behind Lago Argentino</div>
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Jeff in late afternoon light, striking out across the pampa (Patagonia's - and Argentina's - most extensive ecosystem by far... large, mostly-uninhabited expanses of flattish lands covered by desert scrub, all of this very arid and on an enormous scale)<br />
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the pampa does provide some amazing sunsets, though</div>
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camped out in a culvert (only protection from wind and rain), as there are no trees or breaks in the landscape anywhere.</div>
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curious severed and discarded hoof near culvert<br />
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most of the Argentine precordillera looks like this, or some variant of this</div>
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a small herd of guanaco spread out along a hillock<br />
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after the physically-strenuous Carretera Austral of Chile, the Argentine pampa is easy fare, as long as the wind is at your back!</div>
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Cat with the caretaker of an Argentina highway depot at El Cerrito (used mostly in wintertime as a base from which to clear heavy snowfall from highways). We stopped here to drink some mates and eat a late breakfast before heading on.</div>
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on the trail of guanaco as we head out on a dirt road from El Cerrito</div>
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at first this ride seemed great (no traffic, open landscapes), until we found ourselves in a bloody battle with a nasty headwind on a loose gravel road for nearly 75 km. It took us between 7 and 8 hours to move 50km. (photo:Cat Magill)<br />
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the scene at dawn was amazing out here</div>
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we moved south paralleling this range to the west, heading towards Tapi Aike and eventually Rio Turbio (photo:Cat Magill)</div>
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this is what headwind does to cyclists (photo:Cat Magill)<br />
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lots of coal mining at Rio Turbio (photo:Cat Magill)<br />
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Flamingoes at the entrance to Rio Turbio, pretty much across the highway from the above mine. We also saw some condors here.</div>
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sighting back at Rio Turbio</div>
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the top of this tree is covered by Austral Parakeets</div>
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heading back into Chile (again) near Rio Turbio</div>
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this fellow tried to get in on our adventure, voluntarily following us after Rio Turbio, only to be detained by Chile's border police, much to our relief.</div>
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The difference on the Chilean side is notable... actual lived-in estancias and houses are peppered along the highway, unlike the Argentine side.</div>
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herds of sheep spotted on the way to Puerto Natales</div>
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one of the largest shrines to Difunta Correa we have seen, curiously enough near Puerto Natales (Chile). Evidence of the spread of the cult from Argentina into Chile.</div>
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Now in Puerto Natales, these are Imperial Cormorants atop the old pier. (photo:Cat Magill)</div>
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our lodging for the night was provided by Rodrigo, a craftsman and gem trader who runs a cafe in Puerto Natales.</div>
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"No Dams in Magallanes!" (Magallanes is Chile's Twelfth Region). As in the neighboring region of Aysen, the locals have struck up a heated resistance to big dam building in Chilean Patagonia.</div>
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"Mega Dams: An Obsolete Technology". From a book seen at Rodrigo's. For more information and to join the battle against HydroAysen, see <a href="http://www.patagoniasinrepresas.cl/">www.patagoniasinrepresas.cl</a></div>
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Rodrigo and Jeff in front of Rodrigo's cafe</div>
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leaving Puerto Natales, we passed by this likeness of a Milodon, a prehistoric giant whose bones were found in a cave some 24km away. (Note: Puerto Natales is also the jumpoff point for Torres Del Paine National Park, which offers lots of trekking and great scenery. However, we opted not to visit on this trip, as the season is LATE, the days are getting shorter, and Ushuaia is still about 1000km away)</div>
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looking back on Puerto Natales with a rainbow behind it </div>
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the route we would follow between Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas, nearing the end of the continent of South America! (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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Spectacled Duck (threatened species) seen cycling south of Puerto Natales. </div>
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Cat, now in Chilean pampa, with some scattered trees and forest<br />
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this tree is proof of the dominant wind direction in these parts</div>
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...another unforgettable pampa sunset...</div>
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In late March in southern Patagonia the nights are COLD, as the very short autumn gives way to winter. We camped a few nights in this stretch and beat back the cold with campfires. </div>
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dawn</div>
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packing up camp among sparse open forest</div>
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as we moved south, things reverted to Argentina-like in their vast desolation</div>
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the cornerstone of Patagonian existence before tourism</div>
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a day's ride out of Punta Arenas we ran into Tom and Sarah, a British/Australian couple who have cycled south from Canada over the past 20 months. As coincidence would have it, they met and cycled with our friend Anna Kortschak in Costa Rica in 2011.</div>
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Tom has ridden the whole way with an X-tra Cycle. Sarah, on the other hand, had the misfortune of having her bicycle stolen on the streets of Mendoza a few months ago, and she was forced to buy a new bike to be able to continue riding. </div>
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somewhat visible (photo, left of center) is a Rhea, an ostrich-like bird found in the Patagonian pampas. We usually see them in small groups, but this one was spotted on its own. Easily spooked, constantly in motion, and notoriously difficult to photograph.</div>
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riding now as four, as we near Punta Arenas</div>
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... a few more shots of guanacos, fairly numerous in these parts...</div>
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the four of us found refuge from the cold and wind in this building<br />
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center: Chilean flag. right: flag of Magallanes (Twelfth Region), which shows the Southern Cross.</div>
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these are fairly common in Magallanes: dilapidated boats in random places<br />
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We DID attempt to visit this penguin colony (Magellan Penguins) about 25km north of Punta Arenas, but it had been shut down for the season, as the penguins all migrate to Brazil (!) from April to September.<br />
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Punta Arenas</div>
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Punta Arenas has an interesting energy: end-of-the-world but gritty, blue collar, a very real port city, with plenty of dilapidated houses and seedy establishments (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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another look at Punta Arenas (photo: Cat Magill), which is situated on the west side of the Straits of Magellan, and is only about 50km north of the remote southern tip of the South American landmass.</div>
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street art in Punta Arenas</div>
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in Punta Arenas we found a seafood stew, loaded with mussels and clams and squid. Furthest to the right, Patagonian King Crab. </div>
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<br /></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-19684842476919407582012-05-14T19:33:00.001-10:002012-05-20T17:29:51.035-10:00Segment 56: El Chalten, Argentina to El Calafate, Argentina (March 11-16, March 23-24, 2012)<br />
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some art left by a thankful traveller at Casa de Jesus in El Chalten. Jesus has been a mountain guide for a decade in the area.</div>
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Jesus has installed various art welding pieces around town, namely waste bins. Above: trekker; below: touring cyclist with trailer...</div>
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Amazingly enough, there are no entrance fees at this Chalten sector of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares</div>
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Although it is already late in the season, we decide to do a 4-day trek in the park. This route is called the "Vuelta de Huemul" or Huemul Circuit. Heading off more or less together are: Jeff, Tom, Greg, Cat, Nico, Santiago, James, Deborah, and Byrum. </div>
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Southern beech forest along the trail</div>
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the first part of the trek pointed us towards Laguna Toro</div>
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... mist rolling in on a drizzly day...</div>
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... this is what we had when the mist rolled out...</div>
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we started seeing glaciers pretty closeby along this stretch (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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at Laguna Toro, two Upland Geese see below...</div>
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Santiago looks for a spot to ford...</div>
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Jeff making his way across, in thigh-deep, brutally-cold fast water (photo: Nicolas Garnham)</div>
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heading upstream beyond the ford (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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Rio Tunel Glacier, our first good glimpse</div>
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Deborah treks on the glacier</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1EUfG2HTeVbz72XgfMm-r6J-W49GAJgwVhlneYqoDy84SlAowMt0b9dW6czm5_TAwC0OjZVb7wbEVPM7nPBLDpFCwAdsCHbBuhHBHwTCuvZHcFuYj5xh8jhSI2CE1RlNFANNaXviiKg/s1600/1091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1EUfG2HTeVbz72XgfMm-r6J-W49GAJgwVhlneYqoDy84SlAowMt0b9dW6czm5_TAwC0OjZVb7wbEVPM7nPBLDpFCwAdsCHbBuhHBHwTCuvZHcFuYj5xh8jhSI2CE1RlNFANNaXviiKg/s200/1091.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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somebody say "South America"?</div>
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on the glacier (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGYei8xJXTX3J-Bhp8RfMd7uBPPNAy4SbIBK8kk32ztzh_LPCBXIg10fIb0eyJqWZBuidb5n_o-6aezsh9CIuxYjpxsd1_EbB8tTR5Lb1OHo7ZScr662pGV1J5SGZpYlmoTl8fydHNQg/s1600/1093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGYei8xJXTX3J-Bhp8RfMd7uBPPNAy4SbIBK8kk32ztzh_LPCBXIg10fIb0eyJqWZBuidb5n_o-6aezsh9CIuxYjpxsd1_EbB8tTR5Lb1OHo7ZScr662pGV1J5SGZpYlmoTl8fydHNQg/s320/1093.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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... cool ice forms...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Ok19puydA7WWR5brHxIv0RyGxw1VO3-fRpybdRbLNPs_pcir7J23toz9lyOXM-2j4xuo3uCvG97qoCTgF3x6nivDpQng6qdCapM_aG80dAlZ77SmJNXddqz0fyLbkTihGlsMTXCKqA/s1600/DSCN0907-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Ok19puydA7WWR5brHxIv0RyGxw1VO3-fRpybdRbLNPs_pcir7J23toz9lyOXM-2j4xuo3uCvG97qoCTgF3x6nivDpQng6qdCapM_aG80dAlZ77SmJNXddqz0fyLbkTihGlsMTXCKqA/s320/DSCN0907-2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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(photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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Rio Tunel Glacier (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY_BWHGU8pacQ0HoFyN9mYdWUfzY-rsTTFHXJ-1jKWsrJ4tVHfsQnvAzQ1trJVVnl12Q7HkYBpa5cp-VLpW6q3YIDVdyGiRt-wLAzoC4WlxPH2FHhGt4pvxZNFuQNp1LXyT4EV3W9OvQ/s1600/1109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY_BWHGU8pacQ0HoFyN9mYdWUfzY-rsTTFHXJ-1jKWsrJ4tVHfsQnvAzQ1trJVVnl12Q7HkYBpa5cp-VLpW6q3YIDVdyGiRt-wLAzoC4WlxPH2FHhGt4pvxZNFuQNp1LXyT4EV3W9OvQ/s200/1109.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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seen on climb to Paso de Viento</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxG-wP2rMIYdrav5SU6oUzoqU_BjOScGS7DV5Db2ntThQOVW_0OBkAhtctCr_PeT6QMDSwz_yRzpegXRifkUv2gbaRsb1xoaTGouvKm2ln3UP0dzueTi5zjVl7-w9BjJmSMqS0SqL7g/s1600/DSCN0913-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxG-wP2rMIYdrav5SU6oUzoqU_BjOScGS7DV5Db2ntThQOVW_0OBkAhtctCr_PeT6QMDSwz_yRzpegXRifkUv2gbaRsb1xoaTGouvKm2ln3UP0dzueTi5zjVl7-w9BjJmSMqS0SqL7g/s400/DSCN0913-2.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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another great look at the glacier (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0k1rLzAghz2CPDZTzq9tZ1pwNC_DTBQ-R09d6uzQRUJKDPLSNWxLoifcOg3zmd-CXPLLKbQTI9xCjgeZHKgBRSJPjLfqicYLaijUulcITSyBZ6N6SYN2_BQ6qCC0irqH9pqNPHn9QyA/s1600/1111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0k1rLzAghz2CPDZTzq9tZ1pwNC_DTBQ-R09d6uzQRUJKDPLSNWxLoifcOg3zmd-CXPLLKbQTI9xCjgeZHKgBRSJPjLfqicYLaijUulcITSyBZ6N6SYN2_BQ6qCC0irqH9pqNPHn9QyA/s400/1111.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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arrived at the pass, alt. 1500m, can be dangerously windy at times, luckily no strong winds today</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiea0c7TX_Yh5G02znTyIxxWEa2T6cTpxcp1KhIamcCrwOJ4W_OPwvMf6MimeGo5kfcv0Rl7xtMrh4W7VyMSJruCsGEkvtO08xijd9aPphoShVkVz31CAhG_kZErG-WnCcikLT1uVGOrg/s1600/1115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiea0c7TX_Yh5G02znTyIxxWEa2T6cTpxcp1KhIamcCrwOJ4W_OPwvMf6MimeGo5kfcv0Rl7xtMrh4W7VyMSJruCsGEkvtO08xijd9aPphoShVkVz31CAhG_kZErG-WnCcikLT1uVGOrg/s400/1115.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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the views from Paso del Viento are mythical, hallucinatory...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI374uUpeUHqgRVcvYUuG55s-bLQcVdn_kOFWMlK9BSA8pdUCPBqY1kl6fjjxxeCqxGFOBm2r1Ok3wCFGekfRtlkzTLSju3iOX22Eu3U2D8JnR7ssXM4DLOnNszBFBRPZMz3-Z-orSsA/s1600/DSCN0918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI374uUpeUHqgRVcvYUuG55s-bLQcVdn_kOFWMlK9BSA8pdUCPBqY1kl6fjjxxeCqxGFOBm2r1Ok3wCFGekfRtlkzTLSju3iOX22Eu3U2D8JnR7ssXM4DLOnNszBFBRPZMz3-Z-orSsA/s640/DSCN0918.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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the Viedma Glacier in the Southern Patagonia Icefield!</div>
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(photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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<br />The Southern Patagonia Icefield, which is located mostly in Chile, is the second largest non-polar ice field in the world. It runs for 350km north-south... </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikTO_qZBaKtBi9A7vd5AE_WlW3hzVJ9EAdzecgj5XApuen-4je9MvdgaGU6pW9c_ih2gjLx941BD548skQcAKcbCEIm_33XPSJV6p2OTc5Stb1PmGlAC3JSuviA4iddrNIlAJoFeiWyQ/s1600/1116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikTO_qZBaKtBi9A7vd5AE_WlW3hzVJ9EAdzecgj5XApuen-4je9MvdgaGU6pW9c_ih2gjLx941BD548skQcAKcbCEIm_33XPSJV6p2OTc5Stb1PmGlAC3JSuviA4iddrNIlAJoFeiWyQ/s400/1116.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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we were speechless from our vista at Paso del Viento, must be seen to be believed</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5H3eBGlQzVSWnE7ajWsipDfT495QKZGpQZycjkdc6wL9u99OGicfpiRlbBfHs52ijNkAY9h78DcWfYKAmA-BVH9WqsSOzwz8fvbKZcbOX4R0zjWqaiL1K9IvPMzzORkZKgFtD2QzgoQ/s1600/1122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5H3eBGlQzVSWnE7ajWsipDfT495QKZGpQZycjkdc6wL9u99OGicfpiRlbBfHs52ijNkAY9h78DcWfYKAmA-BVH9WqsSOzwz8fvbKZcbOX4R0zjWqaiL1K9IvPMzzORkZKgFtD2QzgoQ/s200/1122.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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...some of the muskeg-like vegetation seen while descending from the pass...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblDE3K9NMwtNwGEWETCSA2-kTBQUQYyxc9-DLyee4mZQ9CuUkZ_lhGEZCHiS8MJ-DI6k5m78eVwkIHUhtV0uinPbVNrYzhs55UXFfmp6snusDLB3SRgodsiRb93PCYZ_0HL7MSJ6z-A/s1600/1123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblDE3K9NMwtNwGEWETCSA2-kTBQUQYyxc9-DLyee4mZQ9CuUkZ_lhGEZCHiS8MJ-DI6k5m78eVwkIHUhtV0uinPbVNrYzhs55UXFfmp6snusDLB3SRgodsiRb93PCYZ_0HL7MSJ6z-A/s200/1123.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIlxj30UryHx_LOOzX1VIzU0IAQ-gNmayn0DviUXY8k2j-Kbqj81oUUkuJ3-KBGlrVKdBxqQ7uBslgVY56PsmeiK34-TTh1Hu7b7YSZPwrpGy8AygadIjZMY72Usgx4w3kx6uKLva6iw/s1600/1130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIlxj30UryHx_LOOzX1VIzU0IAQ-gNmayn0DviUXY8k2j-Kbqj81oUUkuJ3-KBGlrVKdBxqQ7uBslgVY56PsmeiK34-TTh1Hu7b7YSZPwrpGy8AygadIjZMY72Usgx4w3kx6uKLva6iw/s320/1130.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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In the shelter at Laguna del Refugio. James prepared "Pizza de montagne"</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEityTsGpEq73-gjLpI8KwjaGBOZerg64LvUIHQKdXJwXUzdUPwnGy98ZHESLMUDiXNWTG_u7mGfF_7zxl26guFXu67lQn0HJZ_EFm9E2GINHElajxElvriR3OBYvpJbBgSH08bDHyV13g/s1600/1133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEityTsGpEq73-gjLpI8KwjaGBOZerg64LvUIHQKdXJwXUzdUPwnGy98ZHESLMUDiXNWTG_u7mGfF_7zxl26guFXu67lQn0HJZ_EFm9E2GINHElajxElvriR3OBYvpJbBgSH08bDHyV13g/s400/1133.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Laguna del Refugio</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHC7M0TicnTkrvmYmCmc00PlRAfarRWtSkByaV-2_dUAM7_KNq0fppbUosvuTVq5_bSqIWvz8OlJl5UTbgW4l0l3BReaY0bzGsP2ram8hxDM7kQtDHcC1chFMpCaUiy5zxwflkhX1xRQ/s1600/DSC_0398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHC7M0TicnTkrvmYmCmc00PlRAfarRWtSkByaV-2_dUAM7_KNq0fppbUosvuTVq5_bSqIWvz8OlJl5UTbgW4l0l3BReaY0bzGsP2ram8hxDM7kQtDHcC1chFMpCaUiy5zxwflkhX1xRQ/s400/DSC_0398.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This range is called Cordillera Perito Moreno. Like many geographical features in Argentina, it's named after a so-called Argentine surveying expert who helped identify the "true" border between Chile and Argentina. (The two countries have fought for many decades over border disputes along the nearly 5000km border) Needless to say, Perito Moreno is not a pop hero in Chile. (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQMkjCj_poCxT6PslBcV7tXq0apE4-M_R1uPq0YsTCnlcZ2u51XAXekZeRWW7qDLbVbNB70ZuX0cPeYcEOWlBiWZ4k2eg_oiMXa-Hr2orc3REQ8riFeicP1ISBUC8u4ho9xGVXGF3euw/s1600/DSC_0400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQMkjCj_poCxT6PslBcV7tXq0apE4-M_R1uPq0YsTCnlcZ2u51XAXekZeRWW7qDLbVbNB70ZuX0cPeYcEOWlBiWZ4k2eg_oiMXa-Hr2orc3REQ8riFeicP1ISBUC8u4ho9xGVXGF3euw/s400/DSC_0400.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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ice chunks floating at the margins (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNtxp9s5WdcERU4G5hseuRluOOxzof1PmQ2mSDq-AnuYksq6dsa1KllRTR1qwVBYn1vjZ4kZzA-qu7dA8DjPtNHe7cxp2KulYIQxzw-fdgGxbYhU4t75dIQ-vgBqmo0MiAkOOL8xOUIQ/s1600/DSCN0936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNtxp9s5WdcERU4G5hseuRluOOxzof1PmQ2mSDq-AnuYksq6dsa1KllRTR1qwVBYn1vjZ4kZzA-qu7dA8DjPtNHe7cxp2KulYIQxzw-fdgGxbYhU4t75dIQ-vgBqmo0MiAkOOL8xOUIQ/s400/DSCN0936.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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yes! (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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yes! (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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yes!<br />
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siskin seen nearly at our feet</div>
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Cat backed by magnificent scenes</div>
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...the Viedma Glacier is beautiful beyond belief (photo: Cat Magill)...</div>
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our trek descended for more than 12km along the glacier and then climbed up to Paso Huemul, with views like this one looking back. (photo: Greg Altman)<br />
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a good look at the glacier as it departs the Cordillera Perito Moreno and the greater Southern Patagonia Icefield</div>
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on the far side of Paso Huemul we descended in beech forest... (above photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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looking down on Lake Viedma from near Paso Huemul</div>
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...packing up camp at dawn in this amazing light...</div>
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the ascent is hairy enough to warrant a fixed, knotted rope on one section among the cliffs</div>
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Lago Viedma (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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where Viedma Glacier abruptly ends in Lake Viedma</div>
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icebergs floating in the lake</div>
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Tom and Nico went for it here in frigid water! (photo: Nicolas Garnham)</div>
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Tom hopes to get girls this way (photo: Nicolas Garnham)</div>
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this is Cerro Huemul, which our circuit circumnavigates (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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another look at the terminus as we head away (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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James in full stride</div>
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Greg makes his way across the second serious ford of the trek<br />
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James happy to complete the Huemul Circuit (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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leaving El Chalten for El Calafate, we had this rainbow suspended in the air for a long time...</div>
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the cordillera seen from far down the shore of Lake Viedma</div>
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we ran into serious headwind on this stretch! note the official highway sign for high winds</div>
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our solution is drafting, in this case with a headwind/sidewind. Cat, James, and Jeff.</div>
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an example of a rural estancia (hacienda) (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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those are guanaco across the river, in the llama family along with llamas, alpacas, and vicuña (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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...we ducked into a highway maintenance station for a moment (photo: Cat Magill)...</div>
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turns out they had a pet guanaco. Even stranger, the dog and the guanaco had become basically boyfriend/girlfriend. The guanaco was orphaned when its parents were killed by poachers only 4 months before. (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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pair of Patagonian caracaras (photos: Greg Altman)</div>
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hawk + caracara</div>
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(photo: Greg Altman)<br />
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Lago Argentina, our first view</div>
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camped next to Rio La Leona</div>
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this is one method to let your friends know where you are camping</div>
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sunset above Rio La Leona</div>
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arrived in El Calafate</div>
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El Calafate as seen from above</div>
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<br /></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-24388082141317316162012-05-07T16:10:00.001-10:002012-05-13T04:54:58.090-10:00Segment 55: Villa O'Higgins, Chile to El Chalten, Argentina (March 6 - 10, 2012)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV4DzpW7u5AZo7X5zk2JmORsbDAncouspjJNhWv6J1pRlq5rU-HNq9iK5A8mGrq7jcF5kL5599thSBsOXVeK_vUgTgNJ1pAZuBoyphKSOUsprSRxLb4iQVWwzGPEEYcwYVt_xxpXcRVA/s1600/DSCN0660.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV4DzpW7u5AZo7X5zk2JmORsbDAncouspjJNhWv6J1pRlq5rU-HNq9iK5A8mGrq7jcF5kL5599thSBsOXVeK_vUgTgNJ1pAZuBoyphKSOUsprSRxLb4iQVWwzGPEEYcwYVt_xxpXcRVA/s320/DSCN0660.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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starting at Villa O'Higgins (top of map), one can see the broken, fjord-lined topography that forms Chile as one moves south. Our next stop is to be El Chalten. (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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...at Posada Fabiana Tom and Jeff jammed with Nicolas, Chilean cyclist travelling this section (photos: Cat Magill)...</div>
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...the colorful houses of Villa O'Higgins, a sleepy town where everything always seems closed for siesta...</div>
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the ramshackle abandoned evangelical church </div>
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plenty of horses in the area... (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_zheLsbfQsGb8gJ5acnPlYGWgggG5LaDZ_gB5iKJxtHm8Kvot5fL0F0njkqeMp8WgGmbC6U9RXJazgWONXj-nL-vFU0NP_h00GrCh5zoNyHQhCBC90xAQ16p4VYCy6Lpq1RgIh5GD8Q/s1600/DSCN6251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_zheLsbfQsGb8gJ5acnPlYGWgggG5LaDZ_gB5iKJxtHm8Kvot5fL0F0njkqeMp8WgGmbC6U9RXJazgWONXj-nL-vFU0NP_h00GrCh5zoNyHQhCBC90xAQ16p4VYCy6Lpq1RgIh5GD8Q/s320/DSCN6251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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... as they are an important part of the local culture and homesteading lifestyle...</div>
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... this one though - a horseskin displayed alongside several other furs- had us puzzled, until the locals explained that they EAT their horses here! (also apparently in Argentinian Patagonia)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_oxqRslanzF4-uKhwkELCze6c5TNgmaBig4QQDhtDZKgDh8kCiOxOuXocpO1VX05Et3e4Vm0uhUP0lR1vOBIL4CxPSj7RC0c2Pjz3qmxCBgH7pF23MlCrzfshcVT_eRkDcERJ9u3cg/s1600/DSC_0032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_oxqRslanzF4-uKhwkELCze6c5TNgmaBig4QQDhtDZKgDh8kCiOxOuXocpO1VX05Et3e4Vm0uhUP0lR1vOBIL4CxPSj7RC0c2Pjz3qmxCBgH7pF23MlCrzfshcVT_eRkDcERJ9u3cg/s400/DSC_0032.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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(photo: Cat Magill)</div>
...some parting shots of the Villa O'Higgins environs...<br />
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Lago O'Higgins, near the dock site</div>
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at the docks, we can't believe we are about to board. We have been waiting for days for our salvation from Villa O'Higgins... (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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Jason and Tom getting ready to fish from the boat, judging their lures and weights (unsuccessful ploy: lake murky, lures invisible to the fish)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1uHULtpZCvih-tV3O6bYzh_H1hlqf7_4C8mbc-Rm6W6jZqgp4vLxmtb0WzeNDB0p2elCvhvH31QRz_xTBW3OF4pGiJR8gS2MJwbFD9qYiYA_KGX-8lq8FU2eTL81Tl6o6mel5Jra8LQ/s1600/846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1uHULtpZCvih-tV3O6bYzh_H1hlqf7_4C8mbc-Rm6W6jZqgp4vLxmtb0WzeNDB0p2elCvhvH31QRz_xTBW3OF4pGiJR8gS2MJwbFD9qYiYA_KGX-8lq8FU2eTL81Tl6o6mel5Jra8LQ/s320/846.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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our boat was to be the one on the left here: "Alberto Lorenzo". This is not the typical boat used to cross this lake, which is normally a large ferry. Due to the general strike going on in all of Aysen, the normal ferry has been cancelled and our only choice is to take this boat. Which is going to cost us over $70 each.</div>
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as you can see, this boat has lots of character (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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we made ourselves at home for the 4-hour ride<br />
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there were 15 cyclists on the boat! plus 3 backpackers. Makes us feel like the long-awaited bicycle takeover of the planet is imminent...</div>
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Tom enjoying the scene (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Meet Po. Po happens to be an ex-street dog, now travelling companion of Deborah, a Swiss cyclist on the boat with us. Po has had quite an adventure for an ex-street dog: she joined Deborah in Coihaique, over 500km ago!! She has run the whole way... and loves the sight of touring cyclists. Patagonia seems to be the antithesis of Peru, where the dogs attack cyclists viciously without provocation. In Patagonia, on the other hand, they instantly befriend you and attempt to join your journey! </div>
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Sonja, Nico, and Santiago (Chilean) (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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Greg, and Jason trying his luck (photo: Nicolas Garnham)</div>
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great scenes opened up as we plied the lake</div>
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...spectacularly-sculpted peaks and distant glaciers(photos: Cat Magill)...</div>
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at the landing dock at Candelaria, still in Chile, we encountered our mirror image: a dozen or so cyclists and backpackers who have been holed up on this side of the lake waiting for the boat to come and save THEM. </div>
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Jeff climbing up from the lake (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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a look back at Lago O'Higgins (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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this was a 7km climb up a loose rocky road<br />
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another look back towards the lake<br />
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when we reached the top of the climb we had this fantastic view awaiting us. The spired peak in the center of the photo is the famous Patagonian mountain FitzRoy. It was to dominate the next week-or-more of our travels.</div>
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we camped in the forest here: 9 of us. (Nico, Santi, Jeff, Greg, Tom, Cat, Jason, Sonja, and Deborah). It was to be a mystical full moon-guitar night.</div>
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having breakfast (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Nico and Sonja (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Tom's sandals have been reduced to this, held together by old bicycle tube rubber straps (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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checking out the map and the routes we are to follow (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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another splendid day <br />
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Nico fording a rushing creek<br />
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back into Argentina, again. This is the third time we've exited Chile/entered Argentina as we've travelled south.<br />
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Cerro FitzRoy (3359m, or 11020 ft.) as seen from the hillock which marks the border. <br />
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the next 6km are no more than a footpath, mostly-navigable singletrack... and some of the funnest riding to he had anywhere on this trajectory (at least in this direction, which is nearly all downhill).<br />
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Santi and Nico making their way<br />
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Cat weaves though the dense forest<br />
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Deborah and Tom taking a breather<br />
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as we descended towards Lago Desierto, the trail became eroded and gullied, making quite a challenge for loaded touring bikes.</div>
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Jason on mythical singletrack...</div>
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...heading towards this...</div>
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!!!!</div>
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Lago Desierto backed by FitzRoy. One of the most magical moments in our entire journey.</div>
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Tom crosses a log bridge<br />
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the dock at Lago Desierto and another ferry</div>
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loading up, again (photo: Cat Magill). This was to be even more expensive than the last boat: $26 for a 45-minute ride.</div>
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Lago Desierto is noteworthy for its status as the last-contested area of a long-standing border dispute between Chile and Argentina. It was finally determined to be Argentinian soil in 1994, which enraged (and still enrages) Chileans. Santiago decided to reclaim it (symbolically) for Chile, and jumped in. <br />
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(photo: Nicolas Garnham)</div>
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A frigid Santi after his dip</div>
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... we had these kinds of landscapes surrounding us on Lago Desierto...</div>
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lots of glaciers around<br />
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Lago Desierto in late afternoon<br />
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... another woods camp, this near Lago Desierto...</div>
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Jason caught a trout and grilled it on the fire, impaled on this stick...<br />
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(photo: Nicolas Garnham)<br />
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the surrounding forest the following morning</div>
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nearby Glacier Huemul (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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Greg getting freaky on the glacier (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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Jason cast his fishing line and got all tangled up <br />
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this guy had better luck than Jason, catching a four-foot-long Chinook salmon (introduced, of course) with FitzRoy towering beyond</div>
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along the Rio de las Vueltas heading towards El Chalten, there is a strict catch-and-release policy (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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...a simply stunning ride to El Chalten (photo: Cat Magill)...</div>
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the road passed close by FitzRoy and its host of nearby peaks<br />
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the north entrance to El Chalten<br />
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El Chalten, a recent (1985) settlement of 500 inhabitants at the base of the FitzRoy range</div>
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we were welcomed at the Casa de Jesus... a local man (Jesus Torres) opened his house years ago to all travellers, making his place a gathering point for international travellers of all sorts, a small space invaded by tents and backpacks and parties. </div>
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Jesus explaining the finer points of "pollo al disco" (chicken prepared in a giant farming disc-turned-cookpan), a common Argentinian dish, to French and Russian travellers (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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the wood stove in Jesus' cabin</div>
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We motivated for a fantastic dayhike to Mirador Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, located in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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looking back towards El Chalten as we start the hike up </div>
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Patagonian Caracara</div>
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Cat feeling the forest<br />
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the local deciduous beeches starting to change color</div>
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a view towards Lago Torre and backing peaks (photo: Cat Magill), one of the most famous and characteristic ridgelines of all Patagonia</div>
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Jeff and Tom mesmerized (photo: Nicolas Garnham)<br />
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... we had 360-degree panoramic views up here...</div>
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looking west towards the luminous peaks that back the nearby Southern Patagonian Ice Field<br />
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a clear look at Cerro Torre (3133m, or 10275 ft.), considered one of the world's hardest climbs.<br />
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hanging glacier seen across the valley</div>
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chilling at the top; L-R: Greg, Deborah, Cat, Santi, Nico, Tom</div>
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Here our Persian friend Byrum captivates us with the story of his injured ankle, which occurred while on a camel-led safari in India 4 months before. According to Byrum, camels are "filthy beasts", and the camel he was riding was a female in heat; several days into the safari a horny male camel tried to mount his camel while Byrum was riding it! The male tossed Byrum off the female, and tried to have a go! Byrum ended up on the ground with an injured ankle, cursing the Indian guides for putting him on a camel that everyone knew was in heat. (photo: Nicolas Garnham)</div>
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Greg snoozes (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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condor overhead (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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beech forest dominates the slopes</div>
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rising like shark teeth (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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a parting look at the range (photo: Greg Altman)</div>
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glum fat cow</div>
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Austral Parakeets, the world's most southernly parakeets, somehow adapted to live in Patagonian climates</div>
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<br /></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-36690927708374973472012-04-24T07:34:00.000-10:002012-04-24T11:54:13.379-10:00Segment 54: Coyhaique, Chile to Villa O'Higgins, Chile (February 23 - March 6, 2012)<div style="text-align: center;">
This section covers the southern half of the Carretera Austral of Chile, what may be the best consistent cycling of the whole trip. Nearly all dirt, no traffic (especially due to the general strike going on!), unpredictable weather, great company in the form of an international group of long-distance cyclists, changing landscapes, rivers and lakes everywhere, and finally, endless snow-capped mountains and glaciers...</div>
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heading out of Coihaique in great weather, we ran into roadblocks due to the general strike going on in Aysén, the 11th region of Chile. Luckily we were able to pass with our bikes.</div>
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this part of Chile is notable for some not-very-Chilean customs, such as wearing berets and drinking mate (see the cartoon cow above), which are generally associated with Argentinians. This is due to immigration of Argentinian campesinos over a century ago... </div>
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here is a typical estancia (hacienda) of the region. Note how dry the land is compared to other parts of the Carretera Austral we have ridden through.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP9DBfX0ciWWKtLWsp82uVn8ABSpyGb-Dg9_wMAGjps0fMCcqj8YDJL9fLyeS4GTVkrbDs5Kyz5xfW-SDVeLDnqafiIzV-OMbvOY03F4KI5bKDXuS0xrNZDRLItq15yZswXLseek0ZQg/s1600/DSCN5759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP9DBfX0ciWWKtLWsp82uVn8ABSpyGb-Dg9_wMAGjps0fMCcqj8YDJL9fLyeS4GTVkrbDs5Kyz5xfW-SDVeLDnqafiIzV-OMbvOY03F4KI5bKDXuS0xrNZDRLItq15yZswXLseek0ZQg/s320/DSCN5759.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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sheep-raising, for wool and meat, has historically been THE economy for Patagonia</div>
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here we are entering the Cerro Castillo area</div>
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red fox seen on the road</div>
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Cerro Castillo (translates as Castle Mountain), in perfect weather, towering above the landscape</div>
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near Cerro Castillo, we ran into yet another roadblock. Here Jeff is chatting with Beatriz, a Chilean activist and tour guide who lived many years in Switzerland and has returned to Chile to tackle pressing social and environmental issues. She is explaining the nature of the strike, which covers issues from rising gas and energy costs to lack of doctor and hospital access, to poor road maintenance and construction, to fighting a very outrageous plan to build a series of dams and powerlines to transport power to Santiago, the distant capital city.</div>
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...more images of the striking Cerro Castillo...</div>
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hanging glacier</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP9k3rvhLk5fntwDWg6SrKXYcMKFvo0QdKFd-RoPQcJvKxxrDaHLQqdF7kEM5YbzUANbY-f12i8ruzHbdBN4uaP6MBRLcsQe7bB3tAEhp3ob9yLLmN9qlxGARg1Q5RYGnGI6Ffg9D5ew/s1600/DSCN5800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP9k3rvhLk5fntwDWg6SrKXYcMKFvo0QdKFd-RoPQcJvKxxrDaHLQqdF7kEM5YbzUANbY-f12i8ruzHbdBN4uaP6MBRLcsQe7bB3tAEhp3ob9yLLmN9qlxGARg1Q5RYGnGI6Ffg9D5ew/s320/DSCN5800.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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...late afternoon saw gorgeous landscapes in this area...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq8mkw44spxQjcL06wuiRJ90YXvFpAIHQD8vC54seucWnU72Yimf_lPubtWZRGBsej43qaQ2FLhq5n4KsKeM98SseistMrL0IQaXUlkadvsBbSiLYDbkAgEe-6WO1Bq3oBOl1DheOGFg/s1600/DSCN5803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq8mkw44spxQjcL06wuiRJ90YXvFpAIHQD8vC54seucWnU72Yimf_lPubtWZRGBsej43qaQ2FLhq5n4KsKeM98SseistMrL0IQaXUlkadvsBbSiLYDbkAgEe-6WO1Bq3oBOl1DheOGFg/s400/DSCN5803.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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... the following morning we started up the Rio Ibañez...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwAWo4RAlfrGS8Y3hJUsWT18YF_pKfRPpo6zjrIvBsOXSqLWw6IyAY3b3dqiRCK5UTZrOjiXKVh8sdXkRlirPLYtknWldqaiI901DKwacDDZIW_Ifz2-IK65J8s5UrbiEXozifKHTTDg/s1600/DSCN5812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwAWo4RAlfrGS8Y3hJUsWT18YF_pKfRPpo6zjrIvBsOXSqLWw6IyAY3b3dqiRCK5UTZrOjiXKVh8sdXkRlirPLYtknWldqaiI901DKwacDDZIW_Ifz2-IK65J8s5UrbiEXozifKHTTDg/s320/DSCN5812.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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lovely dirt road through the forest</div>
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a shrine to San Sebastian</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFbCKCieGnqpVDb5W7LqQsOZdUolxfWoCntn0v2_at5Vwyd6hsjal9ApZRb3y2rfYaUVuZ0rb6MSRBk4HEQ0MgLDmnoLlhmsAAzlBhR_FR8Fx4cZoUdnSQdxW6tytB-qAqLt2qXA-urA/s1600/DSCN5825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFbCKCieGnqpVDb5W7LqQsOZdUolxfWoCntn0v2_at5Vwyd6hsjal9ApZRb3y2rfYaUVuZ0rb6MSRBk4HEQ0MgLDmnoLlhmsAAzlBhR_FR8Fx4cZoUdnSQdxW6tytB-qAqLt2qXA-urA/s320/DSCN5825.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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this country is rugged, remote, and strikingly beautiful</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_FpR3muZ0903WDtN5zOl8VZVjI7wK5mV72l3K1wEcR0g4fflddtASjBq1eq3QpUMK7iGen1EQ_6NBIzoupsvvmPFbhsTi6Y7lwPr3fna50V0peXWsvabE53EK-zFBvcwW4SztV_u2sQ/s1600/DSCN5835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_FpR3muZ0903WDtN5zOl8VZVjI7wK5mV72l3K1wEcR0g4fflddtASjBq1eq3QpUMK7iGen1EQ_6NBIzoupsvvmPFbhsTi6Y7lwPr3fna50V0peXWsvabE53EK-zFBvcwW4SztV_u2sQ/s320/DSCN5835.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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as well as wet, as we often rode with rain panchos </div>
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... some local constructions...</div>
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Cat loving the riding</div>
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we saw plenty of these in the inhabited parts</div>
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not a bad place to draw your drinking water</div>
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now along Lago General Carrera, biggest lake in Chile and second-largest in South America</div>
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...Greg gets spiritual in a roadside cabin we appropriated for the night...</div>
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this guy is riding his horse to town since there is no fuel for his truck (due to the strike, of course)</div>
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some anti-dam propaganda at the entrance to Puerto Rio Tranquilo. "Our rivers are much more than just electrical energy. Patagonia Without Dams!!" </div>
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more roadblocking at the entrance to Rio Tranquilo. some folks are camped out here in frigid weather... any hitchhikers and travellers in this area have been doomed and immobilized by the strike. Glad to be on bikes!</div>
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the shocking cordillera rising up behind Lago General Carrera</div>
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Tom giving it hard on the hills around the lake</div>
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Patagonian pygmy owl seen along this stretch</div>
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Black-Necked Swans on Lago General Carrera</div>
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marking our progress along the Carretera Austral</div>
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Lago Bertrand, another in a series of gorgeous lakes</div>
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roadside abandoned cabin. We found an open window, and made ourselves at home for two days.</div>
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the tax statement from 4 years previous. </div>
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Jeff in the frigid waters of Lago Bertrand</div>
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in the cabin we used the wood stove to cook and heat water, and jammed lots of music</div>
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the peaks backing Lago Bertrand</div>
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note the color of the water on Rio Baker</div>
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Tom topping out a climb backed by magnificent peaks</div>
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Patagonian wild rose, the hips of which we have been making infusions with recently</div>
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near the confluence of Rio Baker and Rio Neff. This whole area slated to be inundated by huge stagnant reservoirs if the Aysén Hydroelectric Plan goes through. </div>
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heading towards Cochrane now</div>
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... at the entrance to Cochrane, the last settlement of any real size (30000 people) as we head south along the Carretera Austral... they don't appear to favor the Aysén Hydro Plan...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-6GjNLbimGVpXC753mWQIvgVuPP-5_3Xj5oPSikU0mrHVBxFlvzXwEpjQfJ-730v7JL5TXPWRnY4ywAb4Lm43YxpfR5HgC1OXV9e3RWKWPuS28TXcQoaFOSR-VgUFC2mLQ0gjY3rWg/s1600/DSCN5971.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-6GjNLbimGVpXC753mWQIvgVuPP-5_3Xj5oPSikU0mrHVBxFlvzXwEpjQfJ-730v7JL5TXPWRnY4ywAb4Lm43YxpfR5HgC1OXV9e3RWKWPuS28TXcQoaFOSR-VgUFC2mLQ0gjY3rWg/s320/DSCN5971.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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"Cochrane Without Dams: Let's protect our communities and our cultural identity"</div>
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in Cochrane. Here we had to load up on bread, which is being meted out due to flour shortages. Racing around town trying to buy the last bread before its gone!</div>
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the line of cars waiting at the gas station in Cochrane. </div>
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this bridgeblock at the exit of Cochrane proved challenging to pass with the bikes</div>
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a local passes the time waiting out the roadblock</div>
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...this dog followed us out of town... Tom inadvertently puts his "Dog Whisperer" (Greg's nickname for Tom) skills to work...</div>
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... and so we have a new companion</div>
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Lago Esmeraldas</div>
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well, by this point our new friend had put in 50 solid kilometers, wasn't fatigued, and in fact was joyously happy, so we baptised him with the name Lupus, named after one of our favorite southern sky constellations. It must be stated, that we didn't have food for Lupus, so we weren't sure how this was going to turn out. (In the end, Tom sent Lupus the other way with two Chilean cyclists heading back to Cochrane.)</div>
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stallion seen along the road</div>
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...the huge descent at Barranquitos... one of the most impressive of the trip...</div>
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... a mythical flying dirt descent with great mountainscapes opening up every second...</div>
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dumping us at the bottom, with this gorgeous range nearby</div>
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muted sunset</div>
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local estancia</div>
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introducing the huet-huet, a common Patagonian forest bird. Like many other Patagonian birds, exhibits very little fear of humans, approaching nearly as close as our shoes.</div>
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...what more can a cyclotourist ask for?...</div>
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Rio Baker, still</div>
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... on this gorgeous day, spotted four condors in the river valley...</div>
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... breathtaking riding, the whole way...</div>
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we camped here next to a cool stream</div>
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cooking on open fire</div>
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descending to Puerto Yungay, had this impressive glacier yawning above us</div>
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the heavily-subsidized ferry crossing of Puerto Yungay, which somehow is free. </div>
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because of the strike, no other traffic showed up besides cyclists!!! Here we are ten crossing on the ferry: three Americans, one English, three French, one Swiss, two Chileans. A great confluence of people, ideas, and cultures, and of course, bicycles.</div>
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continuing on towards Villa O'Higgins, on the Rio Bravo</div>
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we found refuge from an unpitying rainstorm in this miraculous roadside cabin</div>
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following morning, everything magical as ever</div>
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Black-Necked Swan on Lago Cisnes (Swan Lake, aptly named)</div>
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Lago Cisnes, incredible.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9hR8a3HjYRMvw0wSZ9uCdtGuNkioY1OOa5RVwfskEy0wjFTu0phPQI2JpLwsQx-TdppI-tBSUuT23TEJhwqDRUlL9RDDUMVQDf4myJb_b4ZnQpJnj5fsJ9-nmkSuFtE3ovwLYb0zbQ/s1600/DSCN6121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9hR8a3HjYRMvw0wSZ9uCdtGuNkioY1OOa5RVwfskEy0wjFTu0phPQI2JpLwsQx-TdppI-tBSUuT23TEJhwqDRUlL9RDDUMVQDf4myJb_b4ZnQpJnj5fsJ9-nmkSuFtE3ovwLYb0zbQ/s320/DSCN6121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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here we have Nicholas, Chilean cyclist travelling from near-Coihaique to points south. He is with a friend, Santiago, the two of which we will see off-and-on for the next few weeks.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVxePMGBCStaNUhyphenhyphenbYxJx2xjgN_70oqO8BmSW00iK1bq9t1qohRFsdkebuvxV18XEaASm2WsF2e67OaE0vmNDPSwVfNfzate_yLTqWJBWKQ4SjvePz1tYLQ39XlIdhd7E98kVYJbpFw/s1600/DSCN6123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVxePMGBCStaNUhyphenhyphenbYxJx2xjgN_70oqO8BmSW00iK1bq9t1qohRFsdkebuvxV18XEaASm2WsF2e67OaE0vmNDPSwVfNfzate_yLTqWJBWKQ4SjvePz1tYLQ39XlIdhd7E98kVYJbpFw/s320/DSCN6123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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...Lago Cisnes, again...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsQULYK5VqH13giJCOOesDif_8aDGrnkBPokQIzQhukdbEp4hgEMdMf4qwVpRVNKzt-I5t-SZQ-MThx3Ch0YKruCyulU5CKhFX82kxQQ1KpRowChNAp1DlJmkzbH8LfHHPpZ8He7xEWQ/s1600/DSCN6129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsQULYK5VqH13giJCOOesDif_8aDGrnkBPokQIzQhukdbEp4hgEMdMf4qwVpRVNKzt-I5t-SZQ-MThx3Ch0YKruCyulU5CKhFX82kxQQ1KpRowChNAp1DlJmkzbH8LfHHPpZ8He7xEWQ/s320/DSCN6129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhdF1uRZZ125Kay25qgnHJAlep5l_ZXFSYogz8karfFPDv7q0JIPUFsxtHX4QTtgfPxApW24P1VOm_BJir2Nq6t451PcnszvKlegjDrOKhNQhU1qasP6XugEbHR7u82qpKa2ixuFaEA/s1600/DSCN6138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhdF1uRZZ125Kay25qgnHJAlep5l_ZXFSYogz8karfFPDv7q0JIPUFsxtHX4QTtgfPxApW24P1VOm_BJir2Nq6t451PcnszvKlegjDrOKhNQhU1qasP6XugEbHR7u82qpKa2ixuFaEA/s400/DSCN6138.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Villa O'Higgins, the end of the road. The Carretera Austral ends here. We arrive slightly nervous, as we have to ferry out of here to be able to cross back into Argentina. Because of the strike, the regular service has been cancelled! (Chile, south of here, turns into a tight labyrinth of fjords and glaciers). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTCQsEdJRuodtnBgzY-8YLEEB__sjhu3xpOdb7_33In4zsTvdLos8Q4OE0MscFB0P6n4HfX-9bNLLBw0sacQWKMyeWNe81-19iMv8tWd3PzPBZ5GKYTHLJkdjO19VIriVH_nZvLp5w6A/s1600/DSCN6178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTCQsEdJRuodtnBgzY-8YLEEB__sjhu3xpOdb7_33In4zsTvdLos8Q4OE0MscFB0P6n4HfX-9bNLLBw0sacQWKMyeWNe81-19iMv8tWd3PzPBZ5GKYTHLJkdjO19VIriVH_nZvLp5w6A/s200/DSCN6178.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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...at Posada Fabiana, we cooked some memorable meals...</div>
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here's Greg with Santiago and Nico, dining on curried pumpkin soup and homemade veggie burgers</div>
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the mountains nearby </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9QJ9eIxh9HV_R_TVj3Y71bs21ZQEj6q8bzUVy_em6WeeDlBybEpdxL9CG601rGU0NO1wtrMWZRLmXTNfzPMLzMm3dKbrCRdpfoKPEermmkHQmoBNmnQDO0cPI5InwLVrkPZl3HNA0Q/s1600/DSCN6187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9QJ9eIxh9HV_R_TVj3Y71bs21ZQEj6q8bzUVy_em6WeeDlBybEpdxL9CG601rGU0NO1wtrMWZRLmXTNfzPMLzMm3dKbrCRdpfoKPEermmkHQmoBNmnQDO0cPI5InwLVrkPZl3HNA0Q/s320/DSCN6187.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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heading 7km to the dock where we will take off to cross Lago O'Higgins on ferry. Yep, this is none other than Jason and Sonja, who have already been in Villa O'Higgins for a week waiting for the ferry.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWyr8Mll0aNPLy-OG-otkqkiEPBGSFVTdU9Uqv6tchSOjmo3u7M4IweJlxPOlCYOQ4R4BSAUTv9zQO-jTS2GL1lizzKT5TS6lxDlkg4ypIFxTKmNtPj0xlEFtfzD9MOH3hGOziiws06Q/s1600/DSCN6193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWyr8Mll0aNPLy-OG-otkqkiEPBGSFVTdU9Uqv6tchSOjmo3u7M4IweJlxPOlCYOQ4R4BSAUTv9zQO-jTS2GL1lizzKT5TS6lxDlkg4ypIFxTKmNtPj0xlEFtfzD9MOH3hGOziiws06Q/s320/DSCN6193.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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we only made it halfway to the dock when the boat owner told us the trip was cancelled due to high winds on the lake and that we would have to wait 4 more days till the next chance!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQlh3lzgxDASyphuyyLazjSN-tzdQCKCtONOnnrlgfifuaLTl9i2LNg-AYSostr0mRgO8LNP7-n6Ws6EYGDHKeOWA0QPI-nfLMuA1JbynqKduU71XkabyATO1waOjvqAFFLFAdLxI1QA/s1600/DSCN6199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQlh3lzgxDASyphuyyLazjSN-tzdQCKCtONOnnrlgfifuaLTl9i2LNg-AYSostr0mRgO8LNP7-n6Ws6EYGDHKeOWA0QPI-nfLMuA1JbynqKduU71XkabyATO1waOjvqAFFLFAdLxI1QA/s200/DSCN6199.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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Tom takes this news in stride and starts fishing</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbehJ0csATpxqTn3F9Txl4zJNbSrujqIOacL1_LzbgCtOCMT-iVa0M-daHMxpA8fqpzR_Jc2wB8sD-UgYGu41_1EqiCvro5fLM1X5TdyyKyizRXnEilzQpH3g0niVm8510I3ugSfnydA/s1600/DSCN6201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbehJ0csATpxqTn3F9Txl4zJNbSrujqIOacL1_LzbgCtOCMT-iVa0M-daHMxpA8fqpzR_Jc2wB8sD-UgYGu41_1EqiCvro5fLM1X5TdyyKyizRXnEilzQpH3g0niVm8510I3ugSfnydA/s320/DSCN6201.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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as does Jason</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNW9ZWHDnQsWxySG_EuNl7JBIOAklODTbk4Kd2QN-XhdgNymrsVR-BCJHOVCm7txqGxSiZKj7_t7KRqbxocsgD9VdmFmZQkPsgmpEbPirI06aFBfVFi_KzY5cgoRBRY9drHYwr14dbdA/s1600/DSCN6207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNW9ZWHDnQsWxySG_EuNl7JBIOAklODTbk4Kd2QN-XhdgNymrsVR-BCJHOVCm7txqGxSiZKj7_t7KRqbxocsgD9VdmFmZQkPsgmpEbPirI06aFBfVFi_KzY5cgoRBRY9drHYwr14dbdA/s320/DSCN6207.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Glacier Rio Mosco as seen from below</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GnV7YK-0OPu-fEmLCRLjTEi4S5goP2YTBbpo0o9ml7p7CS9i_PxCfYpJpUPGuLj-EHp0z_GvClB5tQh7Etht2t4zF-ekXnMt6Kl7N4CtlyEi9PNlx6s6KPxkm4DxAjX62j_QZkybZw/s1600/DSCN6140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GnV7YK-0OPu-fEmLCRLjTEi4S5goP2YTBbpo0o9ml7p7CS9i_PxCfYpJpUPGuLj-EHp0z_GvClB5tQh7Etht2t4zF-ekXnMt6Kl7N4CtlyEi9PNlx6s6KPxkm4DxAjX62j_QZkybZw/s200/DSCN6140.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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with some spare days, we decide to head out on a 2-day trek up the Rio Mosco valley towards the Rio Mosco Glacier.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV42dRGhaQBRXjZ4T0kYZ8GXNFRGVZXkhcg4skU8jSL4_GwrvEKPqYh2jyKk5JKYdFEfHnXaiVdL-79Y9W6tckHDrOqv4jfiqZDwTKycSpybtFOR8Dp_pdGjHp7NuXYGdxb1H6aXf4oA/s1600/DSCN6146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV42dRGhaQBRXjZ4T0kYZ8GXNFRGVZXkhcg4skU8jSL4_GwrvEKPqYh2jyKk5JKYdFEfHnXaiVdL-79Y9W6tckHDrOqv4jfiqZDwTKycSpybtFOR8Dp_pdGjHp7NuXYGdxb1H6aXf4oA/s320/DSCN6146.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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...cool forest in here...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivJVQntXx8N5vDR-ctwTrIclZv008pJhyphenhyphenk-ClRg5-mynb4HTahh-fqfKo5dgxtDdpGakWD8KpPSmCOXdBNmCh1i5zrulcwlKkryl7oBFGnh1KTDkc9OrzdkSOuXzEfmpVZyu3_T0xAmg/s1600/DSCN6166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivJVQntXx8N5vDR-ctwTrIclZv008pJhyphenhyphenk-ClRg5-mynb4HTahh-fqfKo5dgxtDdpGakWD8KpPSmCOXdBNmCh1i5zrulcwlKkryl7oBFGnh1KTDkc9OrzdkSOuXzEfmpVZyu3_T0xAmg/s320/DSCN6166.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_faNldJlgHBe1KK2PQFEk_q7IqmSyi9xU0i4z4JMt4s4YeyTP8dPXaRanzjcHE9Hc4xQKC-TDGvu74l25YYwDq_4neLXSm7Wj5MXHQnMbY9NxK7CzdG2msKshMtyA2LlsqRPrq6KGsQ/s1600/DSCN6149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_faNldJlgHBe1KK2PQFEk_q7IqmSyi9xU0i4z4JMt4s4YeyTP8dPXaRanzjcHE9Hc4xQKC-TDGvu74l25YYwDq_4neLXSm7Wj5MXHQnMbY9NxK7CzdG2msKshMtyA2LlsqRPrq6KGsQ/s200/DSCN6149.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnsBQ0jx4JxzHnsP45vRaOIi3ARKKKLBBdizR6qDUfrJO8XRhlmBRpUi4qB27z4Q3-5sPlW29geybUPuELWBbU76vgSWTvescSSXxuDDoJ-kob5KNWqzN0w0hoQ1ekQnF6nKplJRS6rQ/s1600/DSCN6158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnsBQ0jx4JxzHnsP45vRaOIi3ARKKKLBBdizR6qDUfrJO8XRhlmBRpUi4qB27z4Q3-5sPlW29geybUPuELWBbU76vgSWTvescSSXxuDDoJ-kob5KNWqzN0w0hoQ1ekQnF6nKplJRS6rQ/s320/DSCN6158.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZGgTmtVO3C7fTV4PJQ18xt38ZtUaDUkqm-gMA9FGjmeTKlFmD_l_pvBlvHXQUvQpt_lKQnYTwJvzKlbVNFFByZDAZaz3WmDUi5MDFzbP0vV1BIw8sQcGLXpJP_89CebZ57JYS1O_3w/s1600/DSCN6161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZGgTmtVO3C7fTV4PJQ18xt38ZtUaDUkqm-gMA9FGjmeTKlFmD_l_pvBlvHXQUvQpt_lKQnYTwJvzKlbVNFFByZDAZaz3WmDUi5MDFzbP0vV1BIw8sQcGLXpJP_89CebZ57JYS1O_3w/s400/DSCN6161.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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looking back down on the Rio Mosco/Lago O'Higgins confluence</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqw35uli5TvrcSws2kXBNVTL1ktjubONmrP-mKyeDscZpW7ZZRJn2a0cdb3Ni22cUFH4BXvJ5ZabRi1tEAaimeM_7vSx6IaB-s1PmsiTFDPnUlb6-t_YMOTcLiztINO4EGo3vwHihl7Q/s1600/DSCN6209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqw35uli5TvrcSws2kXBNVTL1ktjubONmrP-mKyeDscZpW7ZZRJn2a0cdb3Ni22cUFH4BXvJ5ZabRi1tEAaimeM_7vSx6IaB-s1PmsiTFDPnUlb6-t_YMOTcLiztINO4EGo3vwHihl7Q/s200/DSCN6209.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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... temperate rainforest...</div>
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our campsite on very soft duff</div>
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... the Mosco rushing through its canyon...</div>
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joined by a feeder stream, one can see here the varying water qualities of the two streams...</div>
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spectacular scenery along the Mosco</div>
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up in this tight canyon we were forced to turn back before reaching the glacier, a great tease, because a few years ago a flood washed out some already-treacherous sections of trail. </div>
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burl seen on the return walk</div>
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we found this message waiting for us when we returned from the Mosco walk...</div>
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... then Jason showed up late at night with some fresh-caught trout</div>
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cinnamon buns courtesy of Jason and Sonja!</div>
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<br />The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-46154898845997243872012-03-23T14:20:00.002-10:002012-03-23T14:20:38.018-10:00Segment 53: Bariloche, Argentina to Coyhaique, Chile (February 9 - February 22, 2012)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSSpkkPL8-XAbYQ0D_plTlJj72efXZT8b8vRfIy4nH9PPwQmywkiV-mUqWD4r_fwkDjP7C-mRJQW7rVF23sM2GREu1GkiMLa-nCOdnr3p0vfar1-bdL5ug0gy_JTMXJVIU_joGtENgtzI/s1600/079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSSpkkPL8-XAbYQ0D_plTlJj72efXZT8b8vRfIy4nH9PPwQmywkiV-mUqWD4r_fwkDjP7C-mRJQW7rVF23sM2GREu1GkiMLa-nCOdnr3p0vfar1-bdL5ug0gy_JTMXJVIU_joGtENgtzI/s200/079.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div>
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one of Bariloche's best chocolates</div>
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Before leaving Bariloche, we took advantage of the summer weather and hiked up nearby Cerro Campanario for some views of the region:</div>
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Lago Nahaul Huapi and environs</div>
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young Israeli girls posing for Facebook shots</div>
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Fede, Agus, Santi and Greg, at the bus stop</div>
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a parting shot of the Bariloche crew: (L-R) Jeff, Greg, Cat, Agus, Fede, Tom and Santi, having microbrew beers in a local pub</div>
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...heading out of Bariloche to great scenery...</div>
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Tom chows an alfajor</div>
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welcome Cat Magill, ex-Peace Corps volunteer from Senegal who served in the same region as Jeff from 2004-6. She had been riding solo from Salta south, and joined up with our crew in Bariloche. </div>
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looking for a campsite at dusk<br />
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local fisherman running handlines near our campsite</div>
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Cat cools off in some very cold water<br />
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on the road to El Bolson<br />
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once in El Bolson, we biked and hiked up to Puquiquiltron, a prominent peak above the city<br />
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our favorite alfajor: Aguila minibrownie - layers of chocolate brownie and caramel. We've eaten hundreds in Argentina...</div>
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we had an amazing day up on the mountain, totally clear weather<br />
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looking down on El Bolson from above<br />
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... the stunning Patagonian landscapes seen from the summit of Puquiquiltron (2260m)...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fxgkAC0-Dy_5Zdb9AFQIskOBy1xZVuKlfrj1Ik2sfLJHPxnvj8LbcPi5gBKwz7YUQvqVc1lEDOczavts4S8F5MNRmwWojAKOTEGUkxtb3d0GWwaOb5BL4mqxHqHwbNIe_fRLMjkYUzE/s1600/056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fxgkAC0-Dy_5Zdb9AFQIskOBy1xZVuKlfrj1Ik2sfLJHPxnvj8LbcPi5gBKwz7YUQvqVc1lEDOczavts4S8F5MNRmwWojAKOTEGUkxtb3d0GWwaOb5BL4mqxHqHwbNIe_fRLMjkYUzE/s400/056.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div>
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... we had the insane good fortune to watch an Andean condor come floating past us at the summit, our first condor sighting of the trip!...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIpiIBpwNzdOzRpFzCF6Q9WCCYMvhch3Z36OiSbBTwLPFjFa33U_x-7JnqP594EV7BzhsKqp5_o3BN_Bht5xXpRJrVoBAEumBmlwHPDfqbbxYfIXBngZtzgnxjmFcWP2A1vt-qQl1BEY/s1600/066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIpiIBpwNzdOzRpFzCF6Q9WCCYMvhch3Z36OiSbBTwLPFjFa33U_x-7JnqP594EV7BzhsKqp5_o3BN_Bht5xXpRJrVoBAEumBmlwHPDfqbbxYfIXBngZtzgnxjmFcWP2A1vt-qQl1BEY/s320/066.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>
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...this condor perched some 40m away and provided us an incredible viewing experience...</div>
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Jeff, Greg, and Tom on Puquiquiltron </div>
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heading south from El Bolson, we had a funny travelling moment here, in which two Argentinians, a Frenchman, and ourselves all coincided at a random intersection. We had lunch together. (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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heading out of Cholila with supplies</div>
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entering Parque Nacional Los Alerces<br />
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stealth camped in the park, with a fire</div>
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Los Alerces is full of conifer forests and lakes. This is Lake Rivadavia.<br />
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this was nearly too good to be true: beautiful, non-desert Argentinian landscapes<br />
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a beautiful day in the park, we went for a few-hour day hike at Pasarela Rio Arrayanes (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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cormorant</div>
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flyfishing in the park</div>
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pristine waters abound<br />
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the park's namesake, the alerce andino, a relative of the true cedar</div>
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Greg and Tom chilling on the beach<br />
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a view of the Torresillas Glacier</div>
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common Patagonian bird: chucao. Curious and colorful. </div>
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arrayanes, typical tree here, notable for its cinnamon-colored bark</div>
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afternoon colors in Los Alerces<br />
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cosmic sunset from Punta Mattos<br />
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waterfall seen in the park<br />
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Lago Futalaufquen</div>
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a flyer for a local cultural festival seen in Trevelin, after exiting the park; offering bingo contests, beauty pageant, parade and horseriding activities</div>
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... from Trevelin we headed out on some rough gravel roads under memorable skies, on the way to Chile once again...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYT_EluSTr_nBa4UoMpUQ9JoAqifvW87hyphenhyphencqoOWR80eZLlOTUsCRgBIAPMgwLgOIVn6fl5h_bwXUjARs9CC6h82v_XfuxDrP99m5oy16KBjET166XEEci1wspasiXLuwifh-xv6Qy9XK0/s1600/189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYT_EluSTr_nBa4UoMpUQ9JoAqifvW87hyphenhyphencqoOWR80eZLlOTUsCRgBIAPMgwLgOIVn6fl5h_bwXUjARs9CC6h82v_XfuxDrP99m5oy16KBjET166XEEci1wspasiXLuwifh-xv6Qy9XK0/s320/189.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div>
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...nearing the border...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaLr_xPywl0mBS3il_Gun7KyZhTZtDgxEGo5sB25ztnzQSEkn0sPAcy6ajXKsMkknerAA5O_Q300WIlTW_3FsxmgCs6Ns_DUgJiNI3XmcD-dV4uCeOfDBh5yV21iABhKvSZ1KS5gsh2zo/s1600/191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaLr_xPywl0mBS3il_Gun7KyZhTZtDgxEGo5sB25ztnzQSEkn0sPAcy6ajXKsMkknerAA5O_Q300WIlTW_3FsxmgCs6Ns_DUgJiNI3XmcD-dV4uCeOfDBh5yV21iABhKvSZ1KS5gsh2zo/s320/191.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>
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the international border at Rio Futaleufú</div>
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Tom got snagged by SAG, Chile's notorious agricultural inspection bureau. Which means he had to eat all his salami and cheese on the spot.<br />
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this map shows our relative location in Chile. We have progressed after all, although Tierra del Fuego remains quite far still.<br />
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in Futaleufú, Jeff had to replace his back hub, the easiest solution for which was buying a new complete wheel</div>
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on our way to Villa Santa Lucia, on some rough, hilly dirt roads<br />
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one of the first impressions we have in this part of Chile is that the villages and towns are very authentic, as opposed to the overblown tourism on the Argentinian side (San Martin, Bariloche, El Bolson, etc.). Here there are families living homestead-style.<br />
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we cycled downstream along this wild river<br />
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camped here in rainy weather<br />
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we had been forewarned: Expect a lot of rain on the Chilean side! this was to ring true.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_POl7OWEK16ct3LcVntL5Pb3IsufcdrpJliySwAmr53BHRMaK3Lpz1mLFYTk-QZnQnSpETXlRR8h58Nf6pn_hfs5WZJfs7zrwjbyJdbNdvnNpBrt3c81fHJXMDoepXLFX0mURcxvrwA/s1600/221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_POl7OWEK16ct3LcVntL5Pb3IsufcdrpJliySwAmr53BHRMaK3Lpz1mLFYTk-QZnQnSpETXlRR8h58Nf6pn_hfs5WZJfs7zrwjbyJdbNdvnNpBrt3c81fHJXMDoepXLFX0mURcxvrwA/s320/221.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div>
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...With rain, however, comes rushing wild rivers and deep green forests...</div>
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in Villa Santa Lucia, we dried off and warmed up around a wood stove. Villa Santa Lucia is where we connected with the Carretera Austral, legendary cyclist route. About 1240km long, it runs from Puerto Montt to Villa O' Higgins, passing through mostly-pristine and sparsely inhabited regions of Chile.<br />
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paralleling this river as we head south from V. Santa Lucia</div>
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we stayed a night here, safe from the rain, in this half-constructed cabin (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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great riding with low traffic<br />
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these are the towns we will cross as we head south along the C. Austral<br />
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what had been a very hilly road flattened out a bit as we neared La Junta<br />
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what we didn't know was that the locals had been threatening a general strike for months, and were starting to act as we entered La Junta. This is a roadblock of a bridge on the north side of town.</div>
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This arch commemorates the construction of the Carretera Austral, which was spearheaded by ex-Chilean dictator General Augusto Pinochet (photo: Cat Magill). We were surprised to see such an obvious monument to Pinochet, considering he perpetrated numerous human rights violations during his several decade dictatorship. </div>
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The Carretera Austral is a popular summer route for young hitchhikers... these ones are stranded in La Junta because of the strike, which has halted all traffic. Glad to be on bikes!<br />
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view of the nearby mountains from La Junta<br />
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Agustin and Matias, two Chilean cyclists from near Santiago who are completing a portion of the Carretera Austral.<br />
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we took over the town plaza and dried out our soaked gear</div>
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Agustin on Jeff's guitar (photo: Cat Magill)</div>
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Matias does some bike maintenance</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJ_ASRZWzdeCrnpe7gICqh1qoR0l_rnXZ3NvF-dJMYgEH6TvIPsIIse4T_08Z6bOL66OI6f13NtOGUHjP9QINQRRHR6Sx-OIoj7z6kfMbsZ9Y7Zv0yfwInaBoGMU-6fmKOr8-QW6TxNo/s1600/261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJ_ASRZWzdeCrnpe7gICqh1qoR0l_rnXZ3NvF-dJMYgEH6TvIPsIIse4T_08Z6bOL66OI6f13NtOGUHjP9QINQRRHR6Sx-OIoj7z6kfMbsZ9Y7Zv0yfwInaBoGMU-6fmKOr8-QW6TxNo/s400/261.jpg" width="300px" /></a></div>
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heading south from La Junta, we started seeing various towering waterfalls<br />
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entering this park we would see plenty more rain</div>
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this is a far cry from the dry Argentine pampas</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5MYFXom6G9busUfUh6GP-xsLIKwYgdKoW85hQ6iPv8rbKbG-iV4Jztbh4eN2VokusjpZocIHlV9jh8ohDFKcLb_0JpU7LV1dvRBzeQSJ_X0Kxfce-wMQj85x9oUdSo997lgOaW0y8iA/s1600/267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5MYFXom6G9busUfUh6GP-xsLIKwYgdKoW85hQ6iPv8rbKbG-iV4Jztbh4eN2VokusjpZocIHlV9jh8ohDFKcLb_0JpU7LV1dvRBzeQSJ_X0Kxfce-wMQj85x9oUdSo997lgOaW0y8iA/s320/267.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>
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just after Puyuhuapi we hit the Pacific Ocean for the first time since Turbo, Colombia, more than 10 months ago</div>
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... temperate rainforest features in Parque Nacional Qeuelat...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo4mnhcbWKAvjOXFpfq0zlcAb7dmQEAOuKarNex-Ibk3_DiVCTRFaBkmbN0Z2f_Qa-dN4xundSixIKYv5NSKVZvDVYK9eqVytz1Hkcoj6ILWEDaaRcAFHpEU_BRILVs7l4xVksavBZUzQ/s1600/271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo4mnhcbWKAvjOXFpfq0zlcAb7dmQEAOuKarNex-Ibk3_DiVCTRFaBkmbN0Z2f_Qa-dN4xundSixIKYv5NSKVZvDVYK9eqVytz1Hkcoj6ILWEDaaRcAFHpEU_BRILVs7l4xVksavBZUzQ/s200/271.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div>
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... misty, fun riding...</div>
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... water water everywhere, thundering out of the mountains...</div>
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Chilean temperate rainforest</div>
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... we cycled past these glaciers and peaks in the middle of Queulat...</div>
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... Tom (above) and Greg (below) pretty happy about the huge descent out of the park...</div>
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we spent the night at this cabin on the side of the road, joined by two Chilean hitchhikers</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtah2arGJTDOskQN66NdDl3_JWlZMIn8Asbx7QSsFfEcbYGa3TkT1EIfcPcfg8G1z1ucSVaAyV-_O62-He0FbDfXXNjwFLEH85sEWWAwlDrF-RSuoNtJ1rZ0QMTJSnCKJgexaEd2CtGFg/s1600/296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtah2arGJTDOskQN66NdDl3_JWlZMIn8Asbx7QSsFfEcbYGa3TkT1EIfcPcfg8G1z1ucSVaAyV-_O62-He0FbDfXXNjwFLEH85sEWWAwlDrF-RSuoNtJ1rZ0QMTJSnCKJgexaEd2CtGFg/s320/296.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>
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... a shrine to San Sebastian, and a thank you note (below)...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdYycZaw5Qk36NS80UGrHTGRNK0zqqDgak4gSWkwOoSzWFWi8Hr93S25ua08AWTQlTIx4XBCUIEvDymCMNvkd_86soZbJDPiOUdX3ZSpDSQoOuyDWKI1hS1lFteA4ENIpGLOZCmLSMTWw/s1600/298.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdYycZaw5Qk36NS80UGrHTGRNK0zqqDgak4gSWkwOoSzWFWi8Hr93S25ua08AWTQlTIx4XBCUIEvDymCMNvkd_86soZbJDPiOUdX3ZSpDSQoOuyDWKI1hS1lFteA4ENIpGLOZCmLSMTWw/s200/298.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div>
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"Thanks, San Sebastian, for looking after me in those years of travelling"</div>
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mountains and rivers without end is the theme on the Carretera Austral</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuv4lJ_PjmqO9cYKPSnczSaODP2Qh5-ju8tumReFWoVZW6kGzeuTsHlCbeXy5HHTJPoPZtKW_SV7kN9tRbfl1Vk5ul1CzMYx4ci_0MMwJdhri2lyXRI8BPlj7g_Kn1tHdLDGFg-l8W8uc/s1600/304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuv4lJ_PjmqO9cYKPSnczSaODP2Qh5-ju8tumReFWoVZW6kGzeuTsHlCbeXy5HHTJPoPZtKW_SV7kN9tRbfl1Vk5ul1CzMYx4ci_0MMwJdhri2lyXRI8BPlj7g_Kn1tHdLDGFg-l8W8uc/s400/304.jpg" width="300px" /></a></div>
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looking down the Rio Cisnes valley</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzN14VU1r3ATT6zFgpvRXz9gNQEe75BfcFnIOpgJ2B5r9HaKXEV_k7Y2dzgZjE2sUpmRrFJVwJcpqxhsn454T_dK34FjkxMMQgxibWGMLoPLYFcOjA6ZUfVLXBs09VYAS3NxnsTfe_hH0/s1600/307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzN14VU1r3ATT6zFgpvRXz9gNQEe75BfcFnIOpgJ2B5r9HaKXEV_k7Y2dzgZjE2sUpmRrFJVwJcpqxhsn454T_dK34FjkxMMQgxibWGMLoPLYFcOjA6ZUfVLXBs09VYAS3NxnsTfe_hH0/s320/307.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div>
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...getting closer to Coyhaique, our next supply point, we passed another roadblock... which started to concern us a little....</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMm2gkrpV94IEsYu07-AbRWQxrYJU4FNg2tUnh_PXcC4mbvg_Wd92-qgAGorKgWYXlvDK5bWsNlOk5EPOEeOjb6jN3yd8XjkpOrvT5VS3tY1YTjQNXeM1tImkZBZbRA4J1Adm_ytCtLA/s1600/308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMm2gkrpV94IEsYu07-AbRWQxrYJU4FNg2tUnh_PXcC4mbvg_Wd92-qgAGorKgWYXlvDK5bWsNlOk5EPOEeOjb6jN3yd8XjkpOrvT5VS3tY1YTjQNXeM1tImkZBZbRA4J1Adm_ytCtLA/s320/308.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>
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fallen logs and burning tires form the roadblock. The locals are mostly protesting because of rising gas costs in the entire region of Aysen, although over time we would learn that it was more complicated than just gas.</div>
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We ran into Craig and Guillermina here, whom we haven't seen since Mendoza in early January</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnxshvgyC6GLVISpiFRCZ0ydDNnH1fBhVKgjX38u1j1Wi3Fe0wwFnlZt5ytMHi62G1RXIUk0K3ipL4sPyKTP-LjQvyfdEleGvIyOqqMe3atZco_uK5LE4pZGefhh6CaI43ZDpWa4pPcFI/s1600/311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnxshvgyC6GLVISpiFRCZ0ydDNnH1fBhVKgjX38u1j1Wi3Fe0wwFnlZt5ytMHi62G1RXIUk0K3ipL4sPyKTP-LjQvyfdEleGvIyOqqMe3atZco_uK5LE4pZGefhh6CaI43ZDpWa4pPcFI/s400/311.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXEirE2SF-Y5rffSTGuxrkCQs2SowUXKDSgo-UX0Vhyphenhyphen-zQumPyj_VOaY8qFIGR3EZf7xTpjdCDjMFER9RJQsYYhRupsZ_hTuRAqSK4dv7DBKEM8DG89c59J2fo0AbefL31oVPGwluX0Uc/s1600/315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXEirE2SF-Y5rffSTGuxrkCQs2SowUXKDSgo-UX0Vhyphenhyphen-zQumPyj_VOaY8qFIGR3EZf7xTpjdCDjMFER9RJQsYYhRupsZ_hTuRAqSK4dv7DBKEM8DG89c59J2fo0AbefL31oVPGwluX0Uc/s320/315.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>
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skirting a huge fallen tree (felled and placed by the strikers)</div>
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along the Carretera Austral, there are always great mountains lurking nearby</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsmz4-zC0Jz2qkeyfvcmtxedEcA4ztpTSHfj15yuFy_f5YrTXoQN4iT3XPosJIOMyzQTxAF_AVI9gG5gm5F0E2yHR4E5XUG29jttLxRSKGzBJBb_x-pLEwIUCansOUcRc0cNVM3V4ttXs/s1600/317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsmz4-zC0Jz2qkeyfvcmtxedEcA4ztpTSHfj15yuFy_f5YrTXoQN4iT3XPosJIOMyzQTxAF_AVI9gG5gm5F0E2yHR4E5XUG29jttLxRSKGzBJBb_x-pLEwIUCansOUcRc0cNVM3V4ttXs/s320/317.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>
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more roadblocking entering Villa Manihuales</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQlEakJqu3L1L36osyY1syznTSJLBBHoyQgcdZESDNntxsJaQTCF6BI-vAmISETwfFQVC0y_hftH3DHs84vzYqYnZPwz9cWPqupLHE8cBkUdLex8RT1FLu_S9XpISTpy8xoYGYbtr088/s1600/318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQlEakJqu3L1L36osyY1syznTSJLBBHoyQgcdZESDNntxsJaQTCF6BI-vAmISETwfFQVC0y_hftH3DHs84vzYqYnZPwz9cWPqupLHE8cBkUdLex8RT1FLu_S9XpISTpy8xoYGYbtr088/s320/318.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>
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we fairly overran this casa de ciclistas... we were 12 cyclists! A local pastor here, Jorge, operates a casa de ciclistas in Villa Manihuales which is a great help to cyclists looking for refuge from the rain and a hot shower.</div>
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drying gear in the town plaza</div>
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curious local kids</div>
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...jamming out in the casa de ciclistas (photo: Cat Magill) ...</div>
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Christophe, a Swiss cyclist also doing Alaska-Argentina. He has done the whole trip on this German recumbent bike.</div>
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Leaving Villa Manihuales, we ran into various other cyclists along the road... Swiss and Italian. Far and away, the Carretera Austral is the most bicycled road we have seen on this entire trip. Thanks to the strike there is virtually zero car traffic the whole way.</div>
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colorful local homes periodically pop up along the route</div>
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as well as plenty of waterfalls</div>
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scenes from an elaborate shrine/grotto to San Sebastian on the way to Coyhaique</div>
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San Sebastian himself. Like the other patron saints, he guards the road, travellers, offers luck and protection in general, and complies in performing various requests from his followers. He is always depicted as being shot full of arrows and tied to a tree... his cult dates back to the 4th century A.D.!</div>
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a vast spread of melted candle wax</div>
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license plates dedicated to San Sebastian</div>
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flyfishing on the Rio Simpson</div>
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coming into Coyhaique from above</div>
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<br /></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-28910252989618413332012-02-22T09:20:00.002-10:002012-02-28T07:15:57.449-10:00Segment 52: Pucon, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina (January 31 - February 9, 2012)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OjP4FB7cFWOWiiqA2yRhU8FB04vvKZiTouwwfw31bWwueIcrUZku3Vvqa9adQV588N8YraL88JgCBIHoAMYqzSu9RaygUv3jwo0Cu4XwnVtCRE5B1YPCbmCnQGwNlbqIMMBqF_vXBrQ/s400/malarguetopucon+199.jpg" width="400" /> </div>
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our few days in Pucon featured more rain than we have seen since Colombia many months ago, but we were able to identify an excellent route heading south from there, passing through Parque Nacional Villarica. </div>
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Volcán Villarica from Pucon, 2847m</div>
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... heading out on dirt roads up towards the park, deep beautiful forest...</div>
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Buff-Necked Ibis, very common in Patagonia</div>
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you don´t see this on the Argentina side</div>
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wacky beetle that Greg encountered along this route (photo Greg Altman)</div>
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capitalist greenwashing alive and well in Chile. So, we´ll buy up virgin and near-virgin forest, carve it up into lots, build high-impact roads and various accesses to it, sell it at ridiculous prices, and call it a protected and conserved area.</div>
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... just after entering the park, we embarked on a 9km old jeep track ride that was one of the best, and roughest, of the whole trip..</div>
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¨Dear Visitor, this road is in very bad conditions; don´t continue towards Coñaripe¨. Yeh, whatever. (photo Greg Altman) </div>
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groovy trail through wet bamboo and decidious forest</div>
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... we did have to push alot...</div>
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totally worth it though</div>
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especially when we entered the Monkey Puzzle forests!</div>
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Monkey Puzzles and mist</div>
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definitely some of the coolest trees on the planet</div>
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(photo Greg Altman) </div>
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Greg and Tom clowning around on the trail. We left the bikes near the road and headed out on a several kilometer hike up to the Pichillancahue Glacier on the slopes of the volcano.</div>
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this Monkey Puzzle is blooming</div>
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a view of the summit from near the glacier</div>
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looking back down the slopes over amazing scenery</div>
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we explored the terminal moraine of the glacier for awhile...</div>
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bubbling ice</div>
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ice bridges and freezing cold streams</div>
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curious gaps in the moraine. Greg called this an Ice Shrine to Yoni.</div>
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... more Monkey Puzzle moments on the descent...</div>
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whitish bark and flaming cones</div>
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dusk in the forest</div>
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we camped in the Monkey Puzzle forest- this fire is Toms work.</div>
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Patagonia's Black Woodpecker, (male left, female right) several of which were active in our camp area in the morning</div>
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the day started on this amazing old abandoned jeep track in the national park</div>
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we didn't see anything like this in Argentina</div>
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now out of the park, a look up at the summit</div>
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humitas, a gift from a friendly lady in Coñaripe</div>
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some tough climbing here</div>
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dust, traffic, and big dangerous log trucks on steep tight curves. We ran into a German cyclist going the other direction here.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgopuKhNjDKOFFeiL5g6LvRM_Plp1gk0dQUvhovoUpQjx3KMmxS2HkFCiqBQ9b9GpbLwOR1Gfg0aYoZxd6v1-rsxTHHbw0V74KdY22R2h0zFnBRKfk8sdzddt7mjl1qC9dVl_Cm1ITI2QI/s1600/jeffpucontobariloche+300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgopuKhNjDKOFFeiL5g6LvRM_Plp1gk0dQUvhovoUpQjx3KMmxS2HkFCiqBQ9b9GpbLwOR1Gfg0aYoZxd6v1-rsxTHHbw0V74KdY22R2h0zFnBRKfk8sdzddt7mjl1qC9dVl_Cm1ITI2QI/s320/jeffpucontobariloche+300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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...Southern Caracara, very common in these areas...</div>
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crossing the huge Rio Quilmo</div>
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looking back at Villarrica from a distance</div>
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late afternoon climbing on a great dirt road</div>
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arrived at Lago Neltume, the less-than-clear skies are a result of the eruptions of the volcano Puyehue (Chile) south of here</div>
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Tom tried his hand at fishing here, no luck</div>
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the morning here was sublime, camped on the edge of Lago Neltume, with lots of birdlife...</div>
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grebes</div>
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songbirds</div>
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foreground: Great Grebe; background: cormorants</div>
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raptors</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghws4SYuso6wDml4uIZjusmMKU1DKo7Lw-g_LF0s-sDNgjl5F5L8coYlsRUP6JpoNSs7wBhor2d8UufOoeV9MEZmuo__bUQmiDkUkdIkiTNz7LYhU_U7hdhQlzjziiWGKGRWPIbTzewZo/s1600/jeffpucontobariloche+334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghws4SYuso6wDml4uIZjusmMKU1DKo7Lw-g_LF0s-sDNgjl5F5L8coYlsRUP6JpoNSs7wBhor2d8UufOoeV9MEZmuo__bUQmiDkUkdIkiTNz7LYhU_U7hdhQlzjziiWGKGRWPIbTzewZo/s200/jeffpucontobariloche+334.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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we made fresh mint tea here from lakeside herbs, with some Doug fir needles thrown in</div>
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...in Puerto Fuy (backed by the huge twin stratovolcano Mosho-Choshuenco at 2420m) , we waited for the ferry to take us towards the border at Huahum...</div>
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Lago Pirihueico at Puerto Fuy</div>
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La Barcasa, the ferry which runs on Lago Pirihueico</div>
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... incredible natural beauty nearing the Argentinian border...</div>
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bizarre Roman cultural relics here in the middle of nowhere</div>
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the border at Huahum, one of the the lowest passes in the Andes at 659m</div>
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... in Argentina, some cool forest riding to welcome us back...</div>
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Argentine gendarmeria (border police) truck</div>
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we cycled along a very hazy Lago Lácar, hazy due to Puyehue eruptions. These eruptions began on June 4, 2011, and since then have belched over 100 million tons of ash, sand, and pumice into the air! Most of it has blown eastwards over western Argentina...</div>
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Cerro Colorado in the background</div>
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San Martín de los Andes as seen from above, and before a rollicking dirt descent</div>
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wicker sales in San Martín de los Andes (photo Greg Altman) </div>
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From San Martín we headed out along the very famous 7 Lakes Road, which leads towards Bariloche further south...</div>
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Lácar Lake, just after San Martín</div>
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some rolling hills navigating the lakes road</div>
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a popular cycling route, we met several Argentine cyclists here</div>
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Tom working on broken spokes</div>
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the beautiful Lago Villarino</div>
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the first part of the 7 Lakes Road had been pavement, the second part was all dirt</div>
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...Lago Correntoso in early morning...</div>
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some of the now-infamous Puyehue ash mounded up along the route.</div>
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Lago Espejo covered by a disturbing film of Puyehue volcanic ash</div>
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Lago Nahuel Huapi (photo Greg Altman) </div>
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Lago Nahuel Huapi is huge, and backed by terrific scenery (photo Greg Altman)</div>
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El Tronador, 3491 m, a definitive peak of this area</div>
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Bariloche as seen from above, sprawling along the southeast shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi</div>
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reconnecting with Hwy 40 for a spell, we had flashbacks to barren desert cycling on the last 20km into Bariloche</div>
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arrived in San Carlos de Bariloche, an important commercial and tourist center in Argentinian Patagonia. The plan is to stay here for nearly a week and relax and organize ourselves for points further south...</div>
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in Bariloche we were welcomed by Fede and Agus, two Argentinian friends of ours whom we had met in Huaraz, Peru, six months previous...</div>
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this beautiful plate of oven-roasted vegetables was prepared by Agustina!! For us, nothing less than ambrosia...</div>
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Bariloche was to be quite the meeting place. Here Greg and Jeff are flanking Santiago Ugolini, ex-flatmate of Jeff's from Barcelona (2008-9). Santiago is from near Mar del Plata, Argentina.</div>
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full moon rise over Lago Nahuel Huapi</div>
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one of Argentina's premier charango players at a cultural festival in Bariloche</div>
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somehow, Bariloche managed to whore itself to such a level that McDonald's is advertised on all its street signs. BOO!</div>
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later that evening, we stumbled upon this wonderful wall art, a sort-of-antidote to the last photo</div>
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...chilling on Playa Bonita near Bariloche...</div>
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at Fede and Agus' flat we jammed a lot of music... some folk music, some latin folk, some reggae, some rock.</div>
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homemade pizza</div>
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L-R: Jeff, Santiago, Fede, Anita (friend from Germany), Tom, Agus, Greg</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXnUSBeJjMhIe81xyH-r4bSeOaKS1EDZVJ79p4_3bRpKLk_s0j0k4ONEiVXc7-Enu3AlDIQB3Y2tlA-ZZAcqiZtLqHxTxkuFLAzwS871YNVCNtAI_d-o7k9j2audClz5RK-aeuTxIcwpo/s1600/jeffbariloche+021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXnUSBeJjMhIe81xyH-r4bSeOaKS1EDZVJ79p4_3bRpKLk_s0j0k4ONEiVXc7-Enu3AlDIQB3Y2tlA-ZZAcqiZtLqHxTxkuFLAzwS871YNVCNtAI_d-o7k9j2audClz5RK-aeuTxIcwpo/s320/jeffbariloche+021.jpg" uda="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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the next appearance in Bariloche was a brief one, by Stephane, our French travelling friend last seen in La Paz, Bolivia some months ago. (Pictured left to right: Santiago, Tom, Stephane, Romina - Argentine friend of Stephane's, and Greg). Here we are having coffee and chocolates at the Rapa Ñui chocolatería in Bariloche.</div>
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Bariloche is famous for its chocolates, deservedly so. Pictured here is a chocolate/almond pastry eaten at Rapa Ñui.</div>
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almost full moon over Lago Nahuel Huapi</div>
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Agus and Greg </div>
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As Fede and Agus also play guitar, we filled the flat with lots of strings and music, making our Bariloche stay unforgettable. </div>
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<br /></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-221835256994819272012-02-07T16:08:00.004-10:002012-02-22T09:21:40.614-10:00Segment 51: Mendoza, Argentina to Pucon, Chile (January 10 - 30, 2012)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Onward from Mendoza: this segment was to be outrageous in its diversity of experience: half in Argentina, half in Chile; part in desert, part in high Andes volcanic plateau, part in forest; some on uncrowded paved highway, quite a bit on rugged rough dirt roads, some on crowded superhighway, some on crowded secondary highway; from burning sun to pouring rains...<br />
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leaving Mendoza we were invited by the Sarmiento family in Chacras de Coria for dinner and to spend the night. Muchas gracias, linda gente!</div>
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unfortunately our puncture problems continued while heading south of Mendoza</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiruHzhQdhRbO5vADEZTxDOZnHTP9YUSkua-rHfhvO4JKBE_Fqp2psNNH_LtgxZUoGJDDO8ISe-G6TkEhIx8uhyGlD6h4H_r5wJdgSC7ZmEGMhAPOW8nxzyFOoKWv_UQNJlj-uVw4ktmDQ/s1600/DSCN4504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" sda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiruHzhQdhRbO5vADEZTxDOZnHTP9YUSkua-rHfhvO4JKBE_Fqp2psNNH_LtgxZUoGJDDO8ISe-G6TkEhIx8uhyGlD6h4H_r5wJdgSC7ZmEGMhAPOW8nxzyFOoKWv_UQNJlj-uVw4ktmDQ/s200/DSCN4504.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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in Argentina, tire repair shops are called gomerias</div>
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at this gomeria in Tunuyán we were invited for a mid-afternoon cerveza by the guys at the shop... who also fixed our 6-7 punctures (between the two of us) without charge</div>
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this was bound to happen sooner or later: sleeping in a vineyard</div>
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vineyards backed by the snowy high Andes, a common sight along this stretch</div>
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banner seen outside an apple orchard. Citizens banded against corporate mining. Most large-scale mining is so destructive to water quality (locally, and in general) in the short and long term that the residents of this area have chosen vineyards, orchards, and livestock raising over mining.</div>
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a curious sight: mini-shrines to Difunta Correa, San Expedito, and Gauchito Gil, all together</div>
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from Pareditas we continued on Hwy. 40, which became a sandy, washboarded track for the next 160km or so</div>
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sunrise out in the remoteness</div>
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truth be told, we weren't too excited to be cycling in so much desert, still...</div>
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this crazy-looking huge bearded jackrabbit (roadkill specimen seen here) is called a <i>vizcacho</i></div>
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...no traffic here, we had some fun riding moments on this remote little-travelled part of 40...</div>
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unlike north of Mendoza, these rivers actually have water, crisp cold water. we took full advantage of this to cool off.</div>
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on this day we rode 115km or more, all on rough gravel and sand, zero shade, with plenty of climbing, in high heat, and with majority stiff headwind...</div>
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Cerro Diamante in the distance</div>
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Argentina has plenty of vintage, weird cars like this one; this at one of the two or three ranches we passed along this route</div>
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we'd do anything for a break from the hot sun, here crossing the Rio Diamante</div>
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climbing up from the Rio Diamante, big sky country</div>
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hard to believe, but the famous 40 was no more than an overgrown jeep track here, complete with grass growing in the road.</div>
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without a doubt, dusk and dawn are the best moments in the Argentine precordillera</div>
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tarantula spotted in the road</div>
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we started at 6 AM, rode all day long, and having ridden the last 2 hours in the dark, we arrived at El Sosneado at 12:30 A.M., completely exhausted. All this to meet up with our next cycling guest...</div>
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Greg Altman, old university friend of Jeff's, has come to Argentina to cycle from here to Ushuiaia. Greg cycled from Ghana to Cameroun with Jeff in 2005-6, besides various other adventures over the years.</div>
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female Northern Harrier</div>
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horseflies were so bad that in this area that we hunkered down for an afternoon and hid from them</div>
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this group of Chilean guys invited us for <i>asado</i> and gifted us a bottle of wine</div>
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we spent a stormy night in a spare room at a friendly roadside shop, cooked dinner on alcohol stoves, and drank the bottle of wine the Chileans had given us. </div>
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Greg looking mean</div>
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here we are heading up towards Las Leñas, from which we plan to cross into Chile. We have heard that Chile is green, with water everywhere, and forests, and there are towns and people and provisions; in fact sounds like a paradise compared to the Argentine precordillera... (we had previously thought to enter Chile from Mendoza, but the highways there are very crowded and truck-heavy)</div>
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meat tourism</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7L0drMJ0gbv9dMnnlpKftLwOhGHU_S17Ok2HnfZ43uai8wgEqcuDlYN4dv9WpcGwMVf70KYBQFjcD2vkRBfdhRNu4xs_OlMT7qphY-Js6bwrr-EGnVJyKqJzWFg8O1N_9x39z8hH0_0/s1600/DSCN4640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7L0drMJ0gbv9dMnnlpKftLwOhGHU_S17Ok2HnfZ43uai8wgEqcuDlYN4dv9WpcGwMVf70KYBQFjcD2vkRBfdhRNu4xs_OlMT7qphY-Js6bwrr-EGnVJyKqJzWFg8O1N_9x39z8hH0_0/s320/DSCN4640.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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idyllic scene at Los Molles</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibEX17TfBrkKJiSA3UWj2-lW-1WNpcwTmIZvAGQpLwl7HCfux0KQRf0B2GbSfteMiMmF5663J_k4eL_ZS7vIGE7g4EUNdX8NuixzCY-kWjTq_bFhYWijhdnuBXsEwsNt2eSZdzIvadZ-c/s1600/DSCN0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" sda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibEX17TfBrkKJiSA3UWj2-lW-1WNpcwTmIZvAGQpLwl7HCfux0KQRf0B2GbSfteMiMmF5663J_k4eL_ZS7vIGE7g4EUNdX8NuixzCY-kWjTq_bFhYWijhdnuBXsEwsNt2eSZdzIvadZ-c/s320/DSCN0008.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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(photo Greg Altman)</div>
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Well, we arrived at Las Leñas (normally a ski resort but now a summer getaway for Argentinians), only to be told that there is no road to Chile from there (never has been), even though one appears on at least 4 maps we have studied, including National Geographic and various highway maps. This is one of the hardest parts of cycling in South America: the maps are often incorrect, highway mileage signs are normally incorrect!, local people aren't always sure of the roads and often contradict each other, police and military are marginally reliable sources of information... in the end you are kind of on your own. So, we turned tail and returned to Hwy. 40, afer a 100km detour... browbeaten, tired of so much desert... </div>
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map clearly showing the non-existent road</div>
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(we later found out from an American/Chilean motorcyclist, days later and hundreds of kilometers south, that there IS in fact a way across from above Las Leñas, including two deep river fords and following numerous cattle tracks. But nobody at Las Leñas knew about this, or anybody else for that matter) </div>
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(photo Greg Altman)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjunxAhCNJQjy7X1b0V1Qk1srHqEqCjXvtA1IhuLfsUpBf8AB-LNhn23glqUcqe-dqcv53lTOB6o20G3ODNlzHAhQJrNZS0FgKSLCx8QQdi0Qyb2DEwNaFPOhHKAjjAnFHIVPg9vthraY/s1600/DSCN4647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjunxAhCNJQjy7X1b0V1Qk1srHqEqCjXvtA1IhuLfsUpBf8AB-LNhn23glqUcqe-dqcv53lTOB6o20G3ODNlzHAhQJrNZS0FgKSLCx8QQdi0Qyb2DEwNaFPOhHKAjjAnFHIVPg9vthraY/s400/DSCN4647.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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at least the cycling was easy on 40, now paved again, heading towards Malargue</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNnoSXhnD4at3h3HGH1-hTjK-47LsbX4-yk61gZJpQzPv-c2OSw7wbwq4I1iiXEUKiivthUn4haVMPFzGiKpI5FCRyilToEt12DZ-bujnesq2uPvvTG-ffjfnX1-U1GfYCIQWjd8Uv2w/s1600/DSCN4650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNnoSXhnD4at3h3HGH1-hTjK-47LsbX4-yk61gZJpQzPv-c2OSw7wbwq4I1iiXEUKiivthUn4haVMPFzGiKpI5FCRyilToEt12DZ-bujnesq2uPvvTG-ffjfnX1-U1GfYCIQWjd8Uv2w/s200/DSCN4650.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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this sad sight <i>was</i> Greg's guitar. This is truly Chinese crap. It didn't last two full days on the bike, on paved roads. Too bad, because three guitars was quite nice.</div>
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leaving Malargue, this wine is earmarked for Greg's birthday the following day</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgap93G0cMLmqjbPbErvrNgxC_95uMb21P9IyNJ7mpNAQhJPaazBOt5xzQT58fzZzCf7JESKkRQ0PoQi3EQveXhYwGeCajoZhxAFnMiNLRq1oWkpmLtlZUt8KOyAdJPEQvhnhxlR7YoWaE/s1600/malarguetopucon+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgap93G0cMLmqjbPbErvrNgxC_95uMb21P9IyNJ7mpNAQhJPaazBOt5xzQT58fzZzCf7JESKkRQ0PoQi3EQveXhYwGeCajoZhxAFnMiNLRq1oWkpmLtlZUt8KOyAdJPEQvhnhxlR7YoWaE/s320/malarguetopucon+005.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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dusk colors on Hwy 40 south of Malargue</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmdmh1_HsQEeK8a55nCVvNjBb49g_1Xm6zJYoOzcdbvAkaW43Hvuw-WiGvg6qrjIs6cB_RS0v1hvR2Tv-KoTHvZ5n2DRN5aChONVq2EahjhG4e1GOi4pBfr5COx9AclgCC9UXkKcrgovw/s1600/malarguetopucon+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmdmh1_HsQEeK8a55nCVvNjBb49g_1Xm6zJYoOzcdbvAkaW43Hvuw-WiGvg6qrjIs6cB_RS0v1hvR2Tv-KoTHvZ5n2DRN5aChONVq2EahjhG4e1GOi4pBfr5COx9AclgCC9UXkKcrgovw/s320/malarguetopucon+006.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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this was to be the dramatic, aesthetic swan song of the guitar, Hendrix-style, up in flames in the Argentine desert on a clear starry night. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPRPVMM2FkEqq6rvyyzJkJtl_SaR1rZoXNisFFL3B3MzdhBQdbWxIISynjQjxpMUnrXxXps9A0w_EEMU0Cj9fCCl7W0Ir8hbi69p59VRHKm-3xuGlP2cuIdp_Mk1KOgpQ3A2k0jAGCaXs/s1600/malarguetopucon+008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPRPVMM2FkEqq6rvyyzJkJtl_SaR1rZoXNisFFL3B3MzdhBQdbWxIISynjQjxpMUnrXxXps9A0w_EEMU0Cj9fCCl7W0Ir8hbi69p59VRHKm-3xuGlP2cuIdp_Mk1KOgpQ3A2k0jAGCaXs/s320/malarguetopucon+008.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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the inscrutable and inconsistent 40 here resembles a crumbling Gambian or Angolan highway</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSMb8ySgtIGkKT7as1CsUfNNFb6k3q9BfrgtWZ1EjJV4NFJRm1WlnzaW2rHZy391lEQn0qVhujWvmuX5YEPhOYni6MYhfCvE69Xq40HKOOCZr4FVh97_Sc1Hph2134lzFXQ78ktqd84YQ/s1600/malarguetopucon+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSMb8ySgtIGkKT7as1CsUfNNFb6k3q9BfrgtWZ1EjJV4NFJRm1WlnzaW2rHZy391lEQn0qVhujWvmuX5YEPhOYni6MYhfCvE69Xq40HKOOCZr4FVh97_Sc1Hph2134lzFXQ78ktqd84YQ/s400/malarguetopucon+010.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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we followed this river (Rio Grande) for a good spell, asking ourselves if the desert would ever end...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbNKf20aEXshWn0NQ2u3Be6LW72QQBY6D7f-bve6JOGAwBax55bQrKLbvtdYk5uvM-jS8MbHWIvxuNXlRml_KwXVbISfSwqXozzzyV8FdXHc_v_CQMdKzbPaC99mW5mlXwZEVKiRXxmDM/s1600/malarguetopucon+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbNKf20aEXshWn0NQ2u3Be6LW72QQBY6D7f-bve6JOGAwBax55bQrKLbvtdYk5uvM-jS8MbHWIvxuNXlRml_KwXVbISfSwqXozzzyV8FdXHc_v_CQMdKzbPaC99mW5mlXwZEVKiRXxmDM/s320/malarguetopucon+012.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Tom encountered this goat skull in a memorable campsite, named it "El espiritu del desierto" (the spirit of the desert) and attached it to his bicycle, swearing to keep it until our desert days were over (hopefully soon). Seems the desert had completely infiltrated our fragile psyches by this point, had us prisoners in fact.</div>
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only 2820 more km till the end of 40. In any case we are going to jump ship and head to Chile at first chance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJ3AvGahKAhKZCd7wjBLzlGRn1zGhZ7swbtyo1XsCfH4TmqEGUq6dhgA-dpCf-8JNSIDz6Lv46ET2PYPXDpXz7QSk7K3w7yEWxwSaTQzjN3wpPUMg_uVNKa2riBPWhg8WT_6EinDUa6Q/s1600/malarguetopucon+016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmJ3AvGahKAhKZCd7wjBLzlGRn1zGhZ7swbtyo1XsCfH4TmqEGUq6dhgA-dpCf-8JNSIDz6Lv46ET2PYPXDpXz7QSk7K3w7yEWxwSaTQzjN3wpPUMg_uVNKa2riBPWhg8WT_6EinDUa6Q/s400/malarguetopucon+016.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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we started seeing big snowy volcanoes along here</div>
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the lack of shade was killing us, though, day after day</div>
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this culvert was the ONLY shade we found all day, so we crawled up in here for a long siesta</div>
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little by little the landscapes were changing... this lake marks a soon-arrival in the Lakes District</div>
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great late-afternoon light</div>
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flying downhill at high speeds to great sunset skies is a highlight of the precordillera</div>
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when we entered Neuquen province, it seems we had officially arrived in Patagonia (photo Greg Altman)</div>
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nearing Buta Ranquil on the way to Chos Malal</div>
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this guy is praying to Difunta Correa here, just outside of Buta Ranquil</div>
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vast low-scrub landscapes are the theme here</div>
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most of this segment south of Malargue featured these colorful parrots: Burrowing Parrots, in Spanish known as Loro Tricahue</div>
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descending down towards Chos Malal</div>
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we were hosted by the friendly firemen in Chos Malal while we rested for the better part of two days. </div>
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it seems we found our salvation in Chos Malal, an escape to Chile via Paso Picachén, a several hundred kilometer dirtroad route over the cordillera and down to Antuco, Chile.</div>
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this pass was originally opened in 1806.</div>
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late afternoon here brought some amazing lenticular clouds with iridescent fringes</div>
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opening up what must be our thousandth alfajor already... one of the world's greatest locally-found cycling snacks</div>
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beginning the long steady undulating climb towards the border, invigorated by thoughts of leaving the desert</div>
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it seems incredible, but this was Jeff's 42nd puncture in Argentina, occurring in the day's last moments of light while we still hadn't located a campspot.</div>
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steep climbing the following morning</div>
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...spectacular vistas and light shows opened up as we climbed...</div>
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just outside El Cholar, a shrine to omnnipresent Gauchito Gil</div>
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in El Cholar we went to the town park, and were immediately besieged by a group of great local kids. We invented a long myth involving Espiritu del Desierto for which they showed intense curiosity.</div>
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they played our guitars...</div>
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... taught us some Argentinian folk guitar style...</div>
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... and even brought us homemade empanadas by Grandma! Empanadas are an Argentinian staple as well, basically a smaller simpler version of an English pasty. Folded dough over a meat-based filling, fried.</div>
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Southern Lapwing, very common bird in these parts</div>
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onwards from El Cholar</div>
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(photo Greg Altman)</div>
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striking colors and landscapes all through here</div>
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woodfire cooking with three pots... our fare at this point usually involves a pasta starter (to remove the insane hunger that we have after riding all day, so that we can then concentrate on really cooking dinner). Main dish tends to be brown rice, bulgur wheat, or lentil-based, usually with a veggie soup accompaniment.</div>
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our campsite at Rio Reñileuvu</div>
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funky bug, one of various sorts of bizarre insects we have encountered</div>
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male (right) and female (left) Chilean Torrent Ducks hunting in the rapids</div>
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... now really heading towards the pass...</div>
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this was really fun riding at times. We left Espiritu del Desierto here in fact, as it was becoming evident that we were poised to leave the desert...</div>
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our first encounter with a Monkey Puzzle Tree on this trip. This was a beautiful specimen. It seemed to mark our exit from the desert.</div>
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... the final climb to the pass at 2060m...</div>
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on the border</div>
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an evening storm rolled in and we were forced to camp in a scrub thicket...</div>
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it was clear the following morning, with snowy peaks in the near distance</div>
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... these two images represent a fraction of the torture Greg creates for himself, and transfers, while packing his bike...</div>
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somehow a 30-minute task evolves into a 90-minute ordeal, with a thousand-and-one plastic bags, small plastic bottles, various rags and doodads strewn across the scene, later to be meticulously returned to the bicycle.</div>
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we couldn't complain about the weather or the scenery (photo Greg Altman)</div>
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wow! (photo Greg Altman)</div>
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surreal scenes as we pass these gorgeous peaks. But have we left the desert? This whole area is a vast volcanic plateau. There is, however, lots of water about.</div>
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just after clearing Chilean customs (photo Greg Altman)</div>
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loose sandy washboard road</div>
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(photo Greg Altman)</div>
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we passed through Parque Nacional Laguna de Laja</div>
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riding through not-too-old lava flows in the park</div>
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finally! green forests, raging rivers, humid air, waterfalls! after nearly 10 weeks in the desert (since the altiplano of Bolivia in November)... (photo Greg Altman)</div>
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descending through green hills</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimY97AD_-xkcwV37sXYHoi29UX2gytC1YxLk9Lc5Fnzp50hy-OWLRyHgN3V93GGBtl_82Nn_jEgdMgwKvYuNEaGtheue7-aGXwG0wYlUTO-GbDY3_zLht8r-Nmc_W9_fcpJIocuAG_8ZQ/s1600/malarguetopucon+172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" sda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimY97AD_-xkcwV37sXYHoi29UX2gytC1YxLk9Lc5Fnzp50hy-OWLRyHgN3V93GGBtl_82Nn_jEgdMgwKvYuNEaGtheue7-aGXwG0wYlUTO-GbDY3_zLht8r-Nmc_W9_fcpJIocuAG_8ZQ/s320/malarguetopucon+172.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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this whole area heading towards Antuco was blanketed in tree plantations, monoculture-style.</div>
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fresh blackberries found roadside as we connect dirt roads to Santa Bárbara</div>
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leaving Santa Bárbara we crossed this giant river, the Rio Bio-Bio, which is the second-longest and the widest in Chile.</div>
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locals in Mulchén</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyOzEY8Q8lzD-qKKTOScVs3VG9RL25YvoX9Dl9AcrRKtCZnBcpLX4jJ4fHJ22nf0RdgVWaMS_7GMWSFnwXW54T8kqwB-9aD931SW-3iHOv4aFTypDXrJOvPmSQPoWFZ3eKG-zXm1tKiI/s1600/malarguetopucon+181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyOzEY8Q8lzD-qKKTOScVs3VG9RL25YvoX9Dl9AcrRKtCZnBcpLX4jJ4fHJ22nf0RdgVWaMS_7GMWSFnwXW54T8kqwB-9aD931SW-3iHOv4aFTypDXrJOvPmSQPoWFZ3eKG-zXm1tKiI/s320/malarguetopucon+181.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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we met these Chilean cyclists in Collipulli. The one on the left is riding a single-speed 28-inch wheel vintage bike he got in Venezuela. Called "Delfin" (Dolphin), he has been travelling 12 years around South America, mostly on bicycle. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xZr7luZbJqCmfdjG-tPQdNp86x4c9lyBaMqnwQKRRGdD2Osqpei9DiIJjk1DVUbNMi361tc7csjUJmUgqseXEjGFnSq6sA5S2UuuDFnIchkzOq3_wij4x9AAeUJ8y8K0V4gApLLeGq8/s1600/malarguetopucon+187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2xZr7luZbJqCmfdjG-tPQdNp86x4c9lyBaMqnwQKRRGdD2Osqpei9DiIJjk1DVUbNMi361tc7csjUJmUgqseXEjGFnSq6sA5S2UuuDFnIchkzOq3_wij4x9AAeUJ8y8K0V4gApLLeGq8/s320/malarguetopucon+187.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Chile is full of nauseating promotion for agrochemicals, transgenics, what have you. Sadly, it seems the country is a vast colony of Monsanto and its cronies. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5WEji5iJHOzHjSCRKpGntYub4fYFoiS5ipdPTD9JGuWABl48VeCgRZikPR-qkLS3n-G-URN54NpyYyRab-moXlhJpL_fXmS8YUf_uDR6pTerS4iZ3vAbftTp_DEdCM8Yk7CD2zou0kOw/s1600/malarguetopucon+183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5WEji5iJHOzHjSCRKpGntYub4fYFoiS5ipdPTD9JGuWABl48VeCgRZikPR-qkLS3n-G-URN54NpyYyRab-moXlhJpL_fXmS8YUf_uDR6pTerS4iZ3vAbftTp_DEdCM8Yk7CD2zou0kOw/s200/malarguetopucon+183.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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putting fresh roadside blackberries to use, in morning oatmeal</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWM0Ufa6sEi6iPAIbwWcPs7cBm7jbXUd5bXF1UEtUCpwOQzcVToqfxt-McPahAHjxiKIqABE7JXPE7N23-lEX1lLp8MWFzmtdmFAAx6n9gR859KU4WnTVR5fXsg3pZ5we8GFJ4-ja8dAo/s1600/malarguetopucon+184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWM0Ufa6sEi6iPAIbwWcPs7cBm7jbXUd5bXF1UEtUCpwOQzcVToqfxt-McPahAHjxiKIqABE7JXPE7N23-lEX1lLp8MWFzmtdmFAAx6n9gR859KU4WnTVR5fXsg3pZ5we8GFJ4-ja8dAo/s320/malarguetopucon+184.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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unfortunately, we were obliged to ride a 150km-or-so stretch of Chile's principal highway, Carretera 5, which runs from Arica in the north of the country to the southern city of Puerto Montt, one of the world's longest highways. It is a screaming 24/7 train of 18-wheelers and assorted vehicles, fuelling Chile's economy. Might as well be I-80 somewhere in Illinois. Not ideal riding. Thankfully it has a comfortable and safe wide shoulder. But we rode as fast as possible to get off this thing as quick as we could. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXwvUDFH2xCRYJCJ8CDdG1F41B0hm_zKvmy0QHn_Wmwl3_0Jb4KrWWHdoQdJytsW7KlIoH8M6KnAhdL6aiV_NHXbbVBSwn56S3cJxer39ds-edffQKQ7PW7y8SqyMQ9pHglM2MMZEPZ7s/s1600/malarguetopucon+185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXwvUDFH2xCRYJCJ8CDdG1F41B0hm_zKvmy0QHn_Wmwl3_0Jb4KrWWHdoQdJytsW7KlIoH8M6KnAhdL6aiV_NHXbbVBSwn56S3cJxer39ds-edffQKQ7PW7y8SqyMQ9pHglM2MMZEPZ7s/s320/malarguetopucon+185.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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now on the road to Villarica and Pucon. Unfortunately, Chile has followed a very capitalist development strategy, which results in lots of ugly roadside advertising, like this. Very different from Argentina.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXZYhuGdnjqv4ioMnDpbcMq6wV-h2khCTZE6S4u_JL299NDLvRnxMpXPUQcId9N3LuaBldw0ay_v5DTigm8anWk5K2M87VB0nphhQtURhCtvdWeTIP0NXgyYn-zrivr7c_SGFcfcA7JM/s1600/malarguetopucon+186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXZYhuGdnjqv4ioMnDpbcMq6wV-h2khCTZE6S4u_JL299NDLvRnxMpXPUQcId9N3LuaBldw0ay_v5DTigm8anWk5K2M87VB0nphhQtURhCtvdWeTIP0NXgyYn-zrivr7c_SGFcfcA7JM/s320/malarguetopucon+186.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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... our campsite in a forested meadow near Villarica...</div>
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hawks about</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlhJG-64EF6dSccUq8HCJ4L2y4AmW23qgI6h8MmJWXVUC2Q-_6AsgtxtxbWrec7sH87pY8M4QaoGeyj60e0kRUWEtefDdPYiFlufqh7OGgfnRCDsE15bofF4ymGDKVIUg5vInnTrbcixE/s1600/malarguetopucon+196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlhJG-64EF6dSccUq8HCJ4L2y4AmW23qgI6h8MmJWXVUC2Q-_6AsgtxtxbWrec7sH87pY8M4QaoGeyj60e0kRUWEtefDdPYiFlufqh7OGgfnRCDsE15bofF4ymGDKVIUg5vInnTrbcixE/s400/malarguetopucon+196.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Conifer trees all around, shade, cool air. We can hardly believe it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4pwiCGv7aTM5XFgF0orki0J3Aa-Z-lwJlAftjXuQKxFM4xVF_sippsIVHm5fSa1gAAzkdDseoro40hW27vQtE8qlNFRiYE_tnAZIDpAmx-W-W8Mrv9_kk1Tg9oQs7Keyeu7T1xe_fuA8/s1600/malarguetopucon+197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4pwiCGv7aTM5XFgF0orki0J3Aa-Z-lwJlAftjXuQKxFM4xVF_sippsIVHm5fSa1gAAzkdDseoro40hW27vQtE8qlNFRiYE_tnAZIDpAmx-W-W8Mrv9_kk1Tg9oQs7Keyeu7T1xe_fuA8/s320/malarguetopucon+197.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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this road to Villarica, however, was choked with loads of holiday traffic. Chilean roads in this region are fast and crowded!</div>
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logging and timber industry near Villarica</div>
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now in Pucon, Greg prepared a fine dinner for us at The Summit Hostel, with fish and roasted vegetables. We rested in Pucon for three days, while it rained endlessly. Endlessly. (photo Greg Altman)</div>
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<br /></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-31771526977584331092012-01-21T05:23:00.001-10:002012-01-21T05:26:44.746-10:00Around Mendoza, Argentina (January 1 - 9, 2012)<div style="text-align: center;">We stayed 10 days in Mendoza, recovering, relaxing, hiding from the sun, going on excursions with Alicia and Greg, swimming, etc.. Unfortunately Mendoza in early January was an unexpected boiling sauna!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHCAIoOrsrwPGWARLKdO9gdSqIKcb68oH6sInEumki81upQn-mvNYHq7RNNdHW8ITLvYC2qqXbufhOBHcF4mDGvbug7ouqLXRvGoKoaiIXim4Ob3g3YGeMfLx2BMYQRORgouFiw74CpE4/s1600/DSCN8713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHCAIoOrsrwPGWARLKdO9gdSqIKcb68oH6sInEumki81upQn-mvNYHq7RNNdHW8ITLvYC2qqXbufhOBHcF4mDGvbug7ouqLXRvGoKoaiIXim4Ob3g3YGeMfLx2BMYQRORgouFiw74CpE4/s320/DSCN8713.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Alicia and Greg (photo Alicia Volk)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGJ2TI2dWTI0Oc05QKbBBLtPzwB32HL15FLnjaX_pYyKpDVTZdYL4hL7AXI2dVXEk7ri1yiEki58_24Wo7eTOnMzIPOzb46INSikhakrOhHQ6V8NmHSpIrDJv75RRCl0LqhvzdDpmwn44/s1600/DSCN4422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGJ2TI2dWTI0Oc05QKbBBLtPzwB32HL15FLnjaX_pYyKpDVTZdYL4hL7AXI2dVXEk7ri1yiEki58_24Wo7eTOnMzIPOzb46INSikhakrOhHQ6V8NmHSpIrDJv75RRCl0LqhvzdDpmwn44/s320/DSCN4422.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">at Finca Adelgisa where Alicia and Greg stayed in Chacras de Corria. Here they are intercropping grapes and fruit trees such as peaches and plums.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbuHBTFjdg6tQyh6_ZWqBGN4vp20Sog6ScAkWrmbH1M6cN3bqirRNYAMmr-Wen2lVhmijeUu2xVHVjiwv_nCC8HQ1z1z4S0fBbiHi0N2Nm7-uSA9nVClkzcBlNyI8bmfqqZhGBXTgNeA/s1600/DSCN8701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggbuHBTFjdg6tQyh6_ZWqBGN4vp20Sog6ScAkWrmbH1M6cN3bqirRNYAMmr-Wen2lVhmijeUu2xVHVjiwv_nCC8HQ1z1z4S0fBbiHi0N2Nm7-uSA9nVClkzcBlNyI8bmfqqZhGBXTgNeA/s320/DSCN8701.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jason, Sonja and Jeff enjoying the fruits of Finca Adelgisa (photo Alicia Volk)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ffZS0hR-az44J9HidYEYg2DDatlakAVFU5D0W0Nd_FWVGZENHSZYMJKLZKQPn7HZ_0IIRLK6jKLSwLkLPQjXMRf6M0tAspyiTlPDm4qKfkp73pbopJ-oO7w1LrHRuUNN_jrkD9oybnU/s1600/DSCN4424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ffZS0hR-az44J9HidYEYg2DDatlakAVFU5D0W0Nd_FWVGZENHSZYMJKLZKQPn7HZ_0IIRLK6jKLSwLkLPQjXMRf6M0tAspyiTlPDm4qKfkp73pbopJ-oO7w1LrHRuUNN_jrkD9oybnU/s400/DSCN4424.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we grabbed our bikes and headed out on a 75km circuit around Mendoza wine country. That is Tupungato (6570m volcano) rising in the background.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbBLKZxR6tMdMsY56CW2dCXLSyZDEpPWEcafvnaVDZuy_itSsmcf3ZtBcnnh2Le39gr7rkpl7T20eb0x3eDBUj2xoqPtbVVg9TTeWLiaIC0oqRcyzQbj6nD8n-hKa7EpFaYZUirTpmiw/s1600/DSCN4425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbBLKZxR6tMdMsY56CW2dCXLSyZDEpPWEcafvnaVDZuy_itSsmcf3ZtBcnnh2Le39gr7rkpl7T20eb0x3eDBUj2xoqPtbVVg9TTeWLiaIC0oqRcyzQbj6nD8n-hKa7EpFaYZUirTpmiw/s320/DSCN4425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff, Sonja, Jason, Alicia and Greg</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8jEINnUzRdFe-ZwyynDF5G_nA0qqEg55cK-rMTXa8BHJkz_XMJJsjFDy4lK3B3Cx4JRUKGcn9QCn7abB13qz8yzfkyiWClJWLDgHLpwBmNPNfJPVRIQBAVXU5uTEBOlKHB-NuHuKxpuU/s1600/DSCN4427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8jEINnUzRdFe-ZwyynDF5G_nA0qqEg55cK-rMTXa8BHJkz_XMJJsjFDy4lK3B3Cx4JRUKGcn9QCn7abB13qz8yzfkyiWClJWLDgHLpwBmNPNfJPVRIQBAVXU5uTEBOlKHB-NuHuKxpuU/s320/DSCN4427.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this ride had great moments (above), and not so great (below), crossing a trash dump...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwHf1KRKVpYnMNZjdBeE_J9xbz07_5sFn9ZTtXd1VTvNIgQRjmweMt1VPbuzQ53daLMsQlm7ELM1kAjmF6ukN7hzlWXjVBAwwn5Q_fzXvf5w23X58-Y5EnDhoSuSaZvhmly8Z6C4K24I4/s1600/RSCN4438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwHf1KRKVpYnMNZjdBeE_J9xbz07_5sFn9ZTtXd1VTvNIgQRjmweMt1VPbuzQ53daLMsQlm7ELM1kAjmF6ukN7hzlWXjVBAwwn5Q_fzXvf5w23X58-Y5EnDhoSuSaZvhmly8Z6C4K24I4/s320/RSCN4438.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4CjGfYdlWuluMZR6OP8s6sZrF1RjDa6UDACJJDSuCALxcOQsU2ZycljAwf9Uu_sJfURESTLYr4ihcKbWqA7RydGvMKePlUqKZuCKmQSPDo4ubrzNCN4KyksqkUH3cbOP9xycaMBd1SY/s1600/DSCN4432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4CjGfYdlWuluMZR6OP8s6sZrF1RjDa6UDACJJDSuCALxcOQsU2ZycljAwf9Uu_sJfURESTLYr4ihcKbWqA7RydGvMKePlUqKZuCKmQSPDo4ubrzNCN4KyksqkUH3cbOP9xycaMBd1SY/s320/DSCN4432.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">some fence-crossing issues between vineyards</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41qKKIOrdfGbKfE444PSa__UR0AmTZBoPG8lXtuNsiz2nJ5tGv5helSdG1Dr7VtSWbIR7Olejn4JJf-k_w1vIVMJqmyd6XGEAb4JYyGXVB9WYkdWX_LzrImHC2q-FEbP6KQjRu9LoHM8/s1600/DSCN4436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41qKKIOrdfGbKfE444PSa__UR0AmTZBoPG8lXtuNsiz2nJ5tGv5helSdG1Dr7VtSWbIR7Olejn4JJf-k_w1vIVMJqmyd6XGEAb4JYyGXVB9WYkdWX_LzrImHC2q-FEbP6KQjRu9LoHM8/s320/DSCN4436.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">....arrived at Finca Decero, where we are to have lunch...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8tJNKLTPFqrmD28V8JPNJLmu4pcKKCtTSayN3bpqv8jMOvkF3oA50qxUxZ6kGC6REYBaL_dDbmhezZ0yJ1FphMKmalvnebWauBcve2zIKcQDvdtNn4R8bLyP9Srj_fnMy-SI_udJiMkQ/s1600/DSCN8709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8tJNKLTPFqrmD28V8JPNJLmu4pcKKCtTSayN3bpqv8jMOvkF3oA50qxUxZ6kGC6REYBaL_dDbmhezZ0yJ1FphMKmalvnebWauBcve2zIKcQDvdtNn4R8bLyP9Srj_fnMy-SI_udJiMkQ/s320/DSCN8709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> (photo Alicia Volk)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyJfxQx5b8wANDa3g_PvJbRwx_uXBYbnDgxIOlRbASZb9owSKuslDpJBG0qAEVj4kXaUCm6HD9jhTHgHKoRzV6x4wHwRit8VPTNsxa_qEyfuU9o1HwPDm0M1hCAOpennEv6IfHkoagRSM/s1600/DSCN4446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyJfxQx5b8wANDa3g_PvJbRwx_uXBYbnDgxIOlRbASZb9owSKuslDpJBG0qAEVj4kXaUCm6HD9jhTHgHKoRzV6x4wHwRit8VPTNsxa_qEyfuU9o1HwPDm0M1hCAOpennEv6IfHkoagRSM/s200/DSCN4446.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... some of Argentina's famous wines... above: Torrentes, white wine from Cafayate, below: Malbec, from Mendoza itself...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzHL208RHK9KJa0ZF6tYf8898WhWJhGWLwwudOgKv9ER_TkvwEquzYQNEpV7ONMD4UApc7XZfXEMP9CmlcrUKlHaBi1-hITWYDk7D5HY8ElC2fwu2H1R_8bRrKTnsxjDZVuOdnjxN3Kw/s1600/DSCN4490.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzHL208RHK9KJa0ZF6tYf8898WhWJhGWLwwudOgKv9ER_TkvwEquzYQNEpV7ONMD4UApc7XZfXEMP9CmlcrUKlHaBi1-hITWYDk7D5HY8ElC2fwu2H1R_8bRrKTnsxjDZVuOdnjxN3Kw/s200/DSCN4490.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Alicia and Greg invited us for a day of white water rafting on the Rio Mendoza with Argentina Rafting. This was a welcome relief from so much desert cycling and also the heat wave suspended above Mendoza during our stay... (following pics from Argentina Rafting)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS4M_I7HGxG3dDhQjSNzw2nJg43mnhK6FEg5pmnGrSzZJdiXZuYqGid3z6fAkUbKIsmOLlkinWTsp4tqTWRpLUXOIJRi6kADKZiO1KYCAVMihQZy5GZvGy4AgKeTl_oFUC4FyyhLm_N24/s1600/_mg_7867.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS4M_I7HGxG3dDhQjSNzw2nJg43mnhK6FEg5pmnGrSzZJdiXZuYqGid3z6fAkUbKIsmOLlkinWTsp4tqTWRpLUXOIJRi6kADKZiO1KYCAVMihQZy5GZvGy4AgKeTl_oFUC4FyyhLm_N24/s320/_mg_7867.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our guide was a Kiwi named Matt</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjaZymzhUVVVxPXSFV83uuNrMpOJp4dN_j4od65ku4NMz6KD3GfikKAwL2LQJgV6oS7m5s8GJtKoJw2R-fZZ_1KoZ8FMe2zruYV-ZqVoZtkUOFh_wFeYgJcPoRoKr-oOosPaJndS9E-zk/s1600/_mg_7881.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjaZymzhUVVVxPXSFV83uuNrMpOJp4dN_j4od65ku4NMz6KD3GfikKAwL2LQJgV6oS7m5s8GJtKoJw2R-fZZ_1KoZ8FMe2zruYV-ZqVoZtkUOFh_wFeYgJcPoRoKr-oOosPaJndS9E-zk/s320/_mg_7881.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...the rapids were class 2-3, we had some mouthfuls of this river...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-qIkfqEv_ygv9T9gGjvM0DSK1zS21hbvO_mFbQgRIYHTKa1TkNjjBVxvfPK_5sijJgD-fQ9uw3IRGZQ3YELfmLs6W7ulXeZfdHkFCLwxIqsGq0rC7vwN7PPBPf7oRmZk8WnVkzu4csI/s1600/_mg_7882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ-qIkfqEv_ygv9T9gGjvM0DSK1zS21hbvO_mFbQgRIYHTKa1TkNjjBVxvfPK_5sijJgD-fQ9uw3IRGZQ3YELfmLs6W7ulXeZfdHkFCLwxIqsGq0rC7vwN7PPBPf7oRmZk8WnVkzu4csI/s320/_mg_7882.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKNU4RmJbR6WGId1yQd3eUzw0ImjqVIkV28PZntCNcDIYVQFkfy_u9ShUQC7mk3YU4SMmlbyu-8jDPxtuuOwWQ_QMYxf-f4zH4W8L-GbpHCSkTR6_EfPXhM8CQAO6a8mhKGleUT1_gtlQ/s1600/_mg_7917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKNU4RmJbR6WGId1yQd3eUzw0ImjqVIkV28PZntCNcDIYVQFkfy_u9ShUQC7mk3YU4SMmlbyu-8jDPxtuuOwWQ_QMYxf-f4zH4W8L-GbpHCSkTR6_EfPXhM8CQAO6a8mhKGleUT1_gtlQ/s320/_mg_7917.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHZ030YH7jgliBwoqw37rtedqtrWqckgfC7J7EQI8mHdj9lpQjyg3QUSEo3YtoM4KyH1Rp1xdUI-p0stdR9cdkhlz78TbIwmglOompKYZo__-fLPxGlfPGtD5Bl0FrXGkxh9_1x8LANBc/s1600/_mg_7885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHZ030YH7jgliBwoqw37rtedqtrWqckgfC7J7EQI8mHdj9lpQjyg3QUSEo3YtoM4KyH1Rp1xdUI-p0stdR9cdkhlz78TbIwmglOompKYZo__-fLPxGlfPGtD5Bl0FrXGkxh9_1x8LANBc/s400/_mg_7885.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Alicia's facial expression here is timeless (seated left rear)</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX_WB1tgyocbEsaeUuKysIJ3SQaSK9vIRNCPem7HO-IVD60B0mUc-6lYiNhyk4mnKKPin5ABiSK2FJjNci2Sa3puF21BR_IkrsDqGWDiUvshyphenhyphennVSiaQ13r08DK9meT0sbtk8SUdxHPJao/s1600/_mg_7932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX_WB1tgyocbEsaeUuKysIJ3SQaSK9vIRNCPem7HO-IVD60B0mUc-6lYiNhyk4mnKKPin5ABiSK2FJjNci2Sa3puF21BR_IkrsDqGWDiUvshyphenhyphennVSiaQ13r08DK9meT0sbtk8SUdxHPJao/s320/_mg_7932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8WtFj8xhra7TzvAhLRJVoPA6DeP7WjezpHwLd4CSHcuojj-tE0aMKVwJITR2dlE7KQH1guP5d5fa-Q3Dmd8u_5B1X_0BONOP8076Rl_KVggpwcllBdsgybDB4WL-gKwJf1VLV7LXtmuU/s1600/_mg_7943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8WtFj8xhra7TzvAhLRJVoPA6DeP7WjezpHwLd4CSHcuojj-tE0aMKVwJITR2dlE7KQH1guP5d5fa-Q3Dmd8u_5B1X_0BONOP8076Rl_KVggpwcllBdsgybDB4WL-gKwJf1VLV7LXtmuU/s400/_mg_7943.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this was a short trip, barely an hour... but loads of fun. Thank you Alicia and Greg!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Back in Mendoza we met up for a busking session on the pedestrian walkway of Sarmiento:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_JFSANE3wYV6FsQltfwst6qFgu537wqLN8kGlBRkR7PuzdHD9TuQgF3wHx4V1XFctwtgqZiqfdZso-orgUlx7Pc6kqF01HLSgIl6bJ8-okgIMSQP5Qql2hMp0ncfAIBXBbmHkVWdM8s8/s1600/DSCN8734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_JFSANE3wYV6FsQltfwst6qFgu537wqLN8kGlBRkR7PuzdHD9TuQgF3wHx4V1XFctwtgqZiqfdZso-orgUlx7Pc6kqF01HLSgIl6bJ8-okgIMSQP5Qql2hMp0ncfAIBXBbmHkVWdM8s8/s400/DSCN8734.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our first time playing together since La Paz (photo Alicia Volk)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIsz9d5fDJZNKyo0N1iOHeROy_zOpK3wjgB7A-4lj1S2zVJny8tqJEyAnuKhhbAU7VkDZgXpoVBkrYXetXkhw766dJ_uGp3cDn0gKuhY3h5kwaMmIwSCLWH3taFOKlMJSX7Sj1ftbR6kg/s1600/DSCN8728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIsz9d5fDJZNKyo0N1iOHeROy_zOpK3wjgB7A-4lj1S2zVJny8tqJEyAnuKhhbAU7VkDZgXpoVBkrYXetXkhw766dJ_uGp3cDn0gKuhY3h5kwaMmIwSCLWH3taFOKlMJSX7Sj1ftbR6kg/s320/DSCN8728.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> (photo Alicia Volk)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7YT6JJcmbMx7HbUtvZUCKl-m3JIa4HL6oBXXATa2gaKtRyxrUmcCZoRZbioaZBn7krXO53zt7-vYA8G2zgcKSviUfMhH07YGiG8yngfO-Pjh9zzkVbGDRhgnJovJNT2qQ1TtFs6hGoFY/s1600/DSCN4466.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7YT6JJcmbMx7HbUtvZUCKl-m3JIa4HL6oBXXATa2gaKtRyxrUmcCZoRZbioaZBn7krXO53zt7-vYA8G2zgcKSviUfMhH07YGiG8yngfO-Pjh9zzkVbGDRhgnJovJNT2qQ1TtFs6hGoFY/s320/DSCN4466.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2LV5fPKJXOsD6cBmANzeFVV67twhlDFUFp9aKfOelqmSjHKghr18PjIsOXjdnExvh5crHLJiDAgUcBgeE6ThkP-4hdkygvI8IbpGjb-3v3X0FyRlCN5gin2uX1FPVdQxKBzj3fXssXxY/s1600/DSCN8747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2LV5fPKJXOsD6cBmANzeFVV67twhlDFUFp9aKfOelqmSjHKghr18PjIsOXjdnExvh5crHLJiDAgUcBgeE6ThkP-4hdkygvI8IbpGjb-3v3X0FyRlCN5gin2uX1FPVdQxKBzj3fXssXxY/s320/DSCN8747.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this session went well into the evening... guitars, mandolin, ukelele, harmonicas, percussion all a-flyin'</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTLB5KxGVOw8_cmnr30nDJgzh-lst4rJckVCaZBEwQcDxRWZQnnRs5xO5zO8U9_50ez1MtkZzI5bA2dqRsvUYa3qeY7YtSquTN21jQj64xqMIin75QrvBkF31cVC2wh_IdaG-EQJhKrC4/s1600/DSCN4489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTLB5KxGVOw8_cmnr30nDJgzh-lst4rJckVCaZBEwQcDxRWZQnnRs5xO5zO8U9_50ez1MtkZzI5bA2dqRsvUYa3qeY7YtSquTN21jQj64xqMIin75QrvBkF31cVC2wh_IdaG-EQJhKrC4/s200/DSCN4489.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom lost his mind after so much heat and desert, and cut off his hair. Here at the pool at LifeHouse Hostel in Mendoza.</div><br />
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</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-33974130516299491262012-01-08T10:24:00.000-10:002012-01-08T10:24:34.039-10:00Segment 50: Salta, Argentina to Mendoza, Argentina (December 21, 2011 - January 1, 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>We left Salta on December 21st with an imposing distance (1300km) separating us from Mendoza, where our sister Alicia was set to arrive on January 1st. Nearly all paved, mostly flat, we set out with clear goals, and long cycling days. This would be our biggest cycling push since crossing the Yucután Peninsula 19 months ago.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VctiVm643fPeQbEjmAUjjr9dUDX4brks0do28kuYOk0PVVVjEI_IbLcNGdjWy8litnOVDoVxmeoU9FXbykVoppBOwQSRGnKXGMSYBa4LtjdFm0GL19k_xVBrNA06sK_E9hoX3I3j55U/s1600/jeff+164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VctiVm643fPeQbEjmAUjjr9dUDX4brks0do28kuYOk0PVVVjEI_IbLcNGdjWy8litnOVDoVxmeoU9FXbykVoppBOwQSRGnKXGMSYBa4LtjdFm0GL19k_xVBrNA06sK_E9hoX3I3j55U/s320/jeff+164.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">leaving Salta, we encountered exercise areas like this one. next to giant Jesus.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXIZ2duw5iaoPp1-D1g-3zHRqD7pgfSM_5OH_VUhcy5BX0nSb4vTYJXFkW01qkmPqQbeVoEVFO9fhXWDAhDWPgGp6RWyvwfS2E0KQncAlvkwNd5nNrAppMiVBMO50oQNds-UPzobyQcFI/s1600/jeff+166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXIZ2duw5iaoPp1-D1g-3zHRqD7pgfSM_5OH_VUhcy5BX0nSb4vTYJXFkW01qkmPqQbeVoEVFO9fhXWDAhDWPgGp6RWyvwfS2E0KQncAlvkwNd5nNrAppMiVBMO50oQNds-UPzobyQcFI/s320/jeff+166.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">on the way towards Cafayate, our first destination/supply point along this route</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11zfwncNNzj19r7wlJdGvQCQ5ngXckShZOY6PG-G1IUshYlDT1NzjlvniVHAbcK6hQL93Jg95SZCinia4NzP3NWd1DiqW4Sa0w29muA_bIhL0CQOfJiJ3wFOtrCB35w0Wem9g8S3a45M/s1600/jeff+167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11zfwncNNzj19r7wlJdGvQCQ5ngXckShZOY6PG-G1IUshYlDT1NzjlvniVHAbcK6hQL93Jg95SZCinia4NzP3NWd1DiqW4Sa0w29muA_bIhL0CQOfJiJ3wFOtrCB35w0Wem9g8S3a45M/s400/jeff+167.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we didn't realize that this apparent greenery was going to fade and disappear all the way to Mendoza</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhY9z1iNnRt8uGNHJXhBFFlc0Wumj0_ww85w3oyyOcnbx-jw7QKHTYngQYfUCKNYyYzPiJVwpgkNZ-0WPClbx9dEAOiTpvT3asGfjcJkXe3S0If4gt2LZnzu9Zu_OsAHcQ05o234pLSY/s1600/jeff+169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhY9z1iNnRt8uGNHJXhBFFlc0Wumj0_ww85w3oyyOcnbx-jw7QKHTYngQYfUCKNYyYzPiJVwpgkNZ-0WPClbx9dEAOiTpvT3asGfjcJkXe3S0If4gt2LZnzu9Zu_OsAHcQ05o234pLSY/s320/jeff+169.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">now in the Quebrada de las Conchas, a gorgeous natural reserve along the highway</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2J_T5YOj4D-Qkio9lGuLGo_ml7WjeSbovwfKUlwvkwALHfvev9rnVSwHTpKUCb5HhTLopeswcgjQWFYyg4LCTr-4p6Tg8t04ABMm75qEQBrolk7N_8by2Q6-MhxjNuDoJJsZ9wg3LRE/s1600/jeff+171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2J_T5YOj4D-Qkio9lGuLGo_ml7WjeSbovwfKUlwvkwALHfvev9rnVSwHTpKUCb5HhTLopeswcgjQWFYyg4LCTr-4p6Tg8t04ABMm75qEQBrolk7N_8by2Q6-MhxjNuDoJJsZ9wg3LRE/s320/jeff+171.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Mitred Parakeet seen in the reserve</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAISVTbi8E3GOiu8LWUv8idxu244RV4Bw57i_nz83KWvRqaLlUPaVLs7h5uU2EeIauqiVnd9hzuMg6Hdl2I0tL1tsff1FJiZaGOBVcyPM7w9vfG8RKu5ROqx2JVGhMG_NOq1-CJvu7Woc/s1600/jeff+172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAISVTbi8E3GOiu8LWUv8idxu244RV4Bw57i_nz83KWvRqaLlUPaVLs7h5uU2EeIauqiVnd9hzuMg6Hdl2I0tL1tsff1FJiZaGOBVcyPM7w9vfG8RKu5ROqx2JVGhMG_NOq1-CJvu7Woc/s400/jeff+172.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">....heading up into Quebrada de las Conchas...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLLWCyXkTRQkRb4_h_T50qOy-o-WYXrkJ2T3ywd9A0QsZOxOzNc5cx6n_tPXgGbW2_NHtEJPMkTbxLHjNSihkuCEL6zlMdlNxYMXtwZ2ze0l5HCcuwQvn_l_u32x3m7j41F3JS1Gh8wJI/s1600/jeff+173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLLWCyXkTRQkRb4_h_T50qOy-o-WYXrkJ2T3ywd9A0QsZOxOzNc5cx6n_tPXgGbW2_NHtEJPMkTbxLHjNSihkuCEL6zlMdlNxYMXtwZ2ze0l5HCcuwQvn_l_u32x3m7j41F3JS1Gh8wJI/s320/jeff+173.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNnVv7J_SwG65mtY3ELmatprNFOZtMUS1T4GhpbYzRQGyvhWlYDJYZVrJFG5Q9t3l_SAOzb17bHei0UxvTONaTT2GTLeatgdKOANWg_tHXXM6zm1adN-RGC8zt-tMFLk4sBrzvOt12DXs/s1600/jeff+175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNnVv7J_SwG65mtY3ELmatprNFOZtMUS1T4GhpbYzRQGyvhWlYDJYZVrJFG5Q9t3l_SAOzb17bHei0UxvTONaTT2GTLeatgdKOANWg_tHXXM6zm1adN-RGC8zt-tMFLk4sBrzvOt12DXs/s320/jeff+175.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat), an incredible rock formation/amphitheatre so named for the demonic echoing that can happen here.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil4RWIoCqS0kQtVD40mTngNHFLWiQwjMpbWI-V7g6Yikh7KknlGqai_w4CsXlfVxojjiv3nDZLrb3uCX75nljLKknpiQoaEmiQPS7dr66zEmy_WEfGJjcXHfsCyQSgIQZnA32nCAe8VbA/s1600/jeff+179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil4RWIoCqS0kQtVD40mTngNHFLWiQwjMpbWI-V7g6Yikh7KknlGqai_w4CsXlfVxojjiv3nDZLrb3uCX75nljLKknpiQoaEmiQPS7dr66zEmy_WEfGJjcXHfsCyQSgIQZnA32nCAe8VbA/s320/jeff+179.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom carefully downclimbing from the top of the Devil's Throat, barefoot</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRcV3WEvuKx9mVXcOXJ6UFvXRWZe6HwygHddGek2IGivNw5bumS7uUA79kgIwq437GP4usOX5PjGFi3swk7xO_73J_YQSWuvehvLR8o1K3GXqOp9kqPm2n1EJfCdD96m4YoYwlq4YQuSY/s1600/jeff+181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRcV3WEvuKx9mVXcOXJ6UFvXRWZe6HwygHddGek2IGivNw5bumS7uUA79kgIwq437GP4usOX5PjGFi3swk7xO_73J_YQSWuvehvLR8o1K3GXqOp9kqPm2n1EJfCdD96m4YoYwlq4YQuSY/s320/jeff+181.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">that gash in the geology is the entrance to the Garganta del Diablo</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjajA6XwWfmH24_SCfICgvnwc4R61JbnHQjNXPciEz2Q5hW2_L7Fvm-yPIOaBDGLJBB7wzP57hhd95jaRUnDwL3yXwl9ORHOU4C2QACTxGFnbIjm9wS7gncM8WVR7EY5weaj05_tUPbYX8/s1600/jeff+182.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjajA6XwWfmH24_SCfICgvnwc4R61JbnHQjNXPciEz2Q5hW2_L7Fvm-yPIOaBDGLJBB7wzP57hhd95jaRUnDwL3yXwl9ORHOU4C2QACTxGFnbIjm9wS7gncM8WVR7EY5weaj05_tUPbYX8/s400/jeff+182.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...this was delightful riding...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZR1MAQ7A9xYActz8uf_qQC_s8TXFUAnV8ShHnXD97zt6T4LypbK1Bn5lO2O-sbmRijtiE7vJGUCnPKQM-YYemjk0GA09tcGU8lOBgXdMK7MqXA3yEYsTPPGKPC9Ni-pDxs133XyxVyzs/s1600/jeff+185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZR1MAQ7A9xYActz8uf_qQC_s8TXFUAnV8ShHnXD97zt6T4LypbK1Bn5lO2O-sbmRijtiE7vJGUCnPKQM-YYemjk0GA09tcGU8lOBgXdMK7MqXA3yEYsTPPGKPC9Ni-pDxs133XyxVyzs/s400/jeff+185.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFUfM2rxPd54XGA36b-2ORujT76dAI-E4OHaXTs6no2BHWy7_uzMelDYLXYpZp5i4JVmpRYE5oEEbp9coptAiyjNRQ6Vr8MhkCNRZnyibSBsjR1t-Rui3VxyF7JIpm3D7RF0fwVRkZI-4/s1600/jeff+186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFUfM2rxPd54XGA36b-2ORujT76dAI-E4OHaXTs6no2BHWy7_uzMelDYLXYpZp5i4JVmpRYE5oEEbp9coptAiyjNRQ6Vr8MhkCNRZnyibSBsjR1t-Rui3VxyF7JIpm3D7RF0fwVRkZI-4/s400/jeff+186.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpB9_x11j1zaNLt4C5RER9rb4lJT8ZOWNbH3_5fGIt_PUBVCaWxU7oUbOQonHSklcbrekRmXA3kLSl4jJRV7_vFIafhSC3A_hAn6F9dtN8Tp53UEoh5ylRSfYQNpabORNWFWkUMBRaJZg/s1600/jeff+187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpB9_x11j1zaNLt4C5RER9rb4lJT8ZOWNbH3_5fGIt_PUBVCaWxU7oUbOQonHSklcbrekRmXA3kLSl4jJRV7_vFIafhSC3A_hAn6F9dtN8Tp53UEoh5ylRSfYQNpabORNWFWkUMBRaJZg/s400/jeff+187.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFADj806_Oo2KdLfzdaNSuZ2hi-qwq5O7nR5R6HPEl6H9hoDkrhI_cZmqHW7TlD9icOCCijc1JzM0fqd9zZ1sveHQI9iehjGgd2HvWZV4AUd6ZI9SH52VgkM83hTVykWPWGml6bVlEtQ/s1600/jeff+194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFADj806_Oo2KdLfzdaNSuZ2hi-qwq5O7nR5R6HPEl6H9hoDkrhI_cZmqHW7TlD9icOCCijc1JzM0fqd9zZ1sveHQI9iehjGgd2HvWZV4AUd6ZI9SH52VgkM83hTVykWPWGml6bVlEtQ/s320/jeff+194.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...these cliffs are home to hundreds of...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkyWI90Wc36DrWbAadGzIkSsu-0q47cuMzKVon8ymqkBodDBFtHjrQouwqYheURueRlDeNONh6U_5b0rzNcEcdKHaVFCJT_Qu-WtQ_8wB3K1ciP2_i6k6l9HDY_97Tk9DBbl91JguOSI/s1600/jeff+189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBkyWI90Wc36DrWbAadGzIkSsu-0q47cuMzKVon8ymqkBodDBFtHjrQouwqYheURueRlDeNONh6U_5b0rzNcEcdKHaVFCJT_Qu-WtQ_8wB3K1ciP2_i6k6l9HDY_97Tk9DBbl91JguOSI/s320/jeff+189.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...Burrowing Parrots!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0A6wG4lS4mHkdB4IAjCl7ZW90e6m_GMMzRj943fHFmAYuhvJ89m-dUPWoFKp4GLTLeXE1F9ins5pRDgv1hjz22cIOl-sBvW_Kd2o_J6X9GT6UGbH2ukTzA1Gx-qLZ2z3kMjU8CkYCA0Q/s1600/jeff+198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0A6wG4lS4mHkdB4IAjCl7ZW90e6m_GMMzRj943fHFmAYuhvJ89m-dUPWoFKp4GLTLeXE1F9ins5pRDgv1hjz22cIOl-sBvW_Kd2o_J6X9GT6UGbH2ukTzA1Gx-qLZ2z3kMjU8CkYCA0Q/s320/jeff+198.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... very Canyonlands-like scenes...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYYT12t4bIafmhypj_KryhAD5VpVZ0d5kFPCRwLR6gDPCnj-dC-50W8_gz8CeuzpU9CeDTBiHlGwwyhGVzd1ONjymETXQTFf0tZ7dYvM9BmAcUj5ZLF3OaKJFk5Zj2WfQqp8kUD_cDSQ/s1600/jeff+197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYYT12t4bIafmhypj_KryhAD5VpVZ0d5kFPCRwLR6gDPCnj-dC-50W8_gz8CeuzpU9CeDTBiHlGwwyhGVzd1ONjymETXQTFf0tZ7dYvM9BmAcUj5ZLF3OaKJFk5Zj2WfQqp8kUD_cDSQ/s400/jeff+197.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRCVpmFp6cVmdAS1DaJdOzcFmHJSlAEXzkQHaFYUbYCXzqNtFWFA9lNYq4aWyIHm66cnSCrTttbrnbeQ6w949_Hd2gMwpftqHlPpzgfhQ-z0bHBANMoZTdGxCBAWuYuZRIQoSSxoeFnM/s1600/jeff+200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRCVpmFp6cVmdAS1DaJdOzcFmHJSlAEXzkQHaFYUbYCXzqNtFWFA9lNYq4aWyIHm66cnSCrTttbrnbeQ6w949_Hd2gMwpftqHlPpzgfhQ-z0bHBANMoZTdGxCBAWuYuZRIQoSSxoeFnM/s320/jeff+200.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">just outside Cafayate, we met up with Highway 40, the legendary longest-road in Argentina that heads down along the precordillera all the way to southern Patagonia. We are meeting it here around kilometer 4340, and we will be on it the majority of the way to Tierra del Fuego.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD8hHuT3-YgciEgisCgTwO-tIssuS7XRjyxDJAXM0_fRYPXdJNc3cdFCQg6KYw3Sn5wUjKU08vICTCqv-cnc76ubp2BQspAJX2pESBXvYl8b9CQegGJ-djIDmpFqtvwWnkYfKtnofQbVg/s1600/jeff+201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD8hHuT3-YgciEgisCgTwO-tIssuS7XRjyxDJAXM0_fRYPXdJNc3cdFCQg6KYw3Sn5wUjKU08vICTCqv-cnc76ubp2BQspAJX2pESBXvYl8b9CQegGJ-djIDmpFqtvwWnkYfKtnofQbVg/s320/jeff+201.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in Tolombon, a parched traveller's dream: a small quiet village with a pool in the center of its shady square! We were here for 5 hours or so, blissed out.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2DMFKri2DijlmGAbNAPw_ZsH4qhqSc14dEll_Ff0TfkzPfdw5crmlnyJiauP1_QCdUjNw9IO5xjGpRiWLl-dzkwm-sSdw3nMgVKvQ40gs7JTJ_KRUQWk7rel9p01i7SMks4yjS149bE/s1600/jeff+204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2DMFKri2DijlmGAbNAPw_ZsH4qhqSc14dEll_Ff0TfkzPfdw5crmlnyJiauP1_QCdUjNw9IO5xjGpRiWLl-dzkwm-sSdw3nMgVKvQ40gs7JTJ_KRUQWk7rel9p01i7SMks4yjS149bE/s320/jeff+204.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we ran into fierce headwinds along here, which reminded us more of Bolivia than the often-imagined lush Argentina that we thought we would be in. In fact, this whole stretch (1300km) is 95% scorched-earth desert. This realization settled heavily upon us.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSXpu3QcXH_w_bVRblnVVMAxw84toPLRMTKIK3xMxZYtR6S-4p7zCZevTgu8KVBZhu90Ik530ihQpNXLJhdWiixou0HXVKoyse3nJ0jhSnSf7ZKqGQuaNskrL9NW71-PnfF8wsj79q-o/s1600/jeff+205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSXpu3QcXH_w_bVRblnVVMAxw84toPLRMTKIK3xMxZYtR6S-4p7zCZevTgu8KVBZhu90Ik530ihQpNXLJhdWiixou0HXVKoyse3nJ0jhSnSf7ZKqGQuaNskrL9NW71-PnfF8wsj79q-o/s320/jeff+205.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a rare thunderstorm near Hualfín; lightning struck less than 1km from where we were riding through, enormous sky-illuminating bolts that had us shaking, and feeling very very alive.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw-PpZo0TNNuRMEAAkKNo0rEFk_42w16lSNrQXcnVuOuJAZgt1nMXBxNNpL2-gEB3ogw5i2nRws8PNFjI3FOJH1lGivGkilx4dIW4-BM0GkkAvQAp7oo6RvAp92tgERyy9QFyTgIHI1hU/s1600/jeff+207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw-PpZo0TNNuRMEAAkKNo0rEFk_42w16lSNrQXcnVuOuJAZgt1nMXBxNNpL2-gEB3ogw5i2nRws8PNFjI3FOJH1lGivGkilx4dIW4-BM0GkkAvQAp7oo6RvAp92tgERyy9QFyTgIHI1hU/s320/jeff+207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">at El Eje, we spent the night in a construction project above a service station while it rained outside</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfGh42tP4lt6s3cwaVxE1KqPBKq652hwjkn6494SpQjV_F4LbS7mHVYI3Yig8VJYpDeGLiYMyn0wOmcUQ_3HXGAbggHIRD3YwT4vHl64kZnn7HJcs6hJKkgjDQBrtiQgGLZlgpx_hZiFk/s1600/jeff+210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfGh42tP4lt6s3cwaVxE1KqPBKq652hwjkn6494SpQjV_F4LbS7mHVYI3Yig8VJYpDeGLiYMyn0wOmcUQ_3HXGAbggHIRD3YwT4vHl64kZnn7HJcs6hJKkgjDQBrtiQgGLZlgpx_hZiFk/s320/jeff+210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Burrowing Owl</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjQtZuNYKV67aeg7Br0YljkhzeM-D0eHszdF4OuQiWYDB2uW0N2JqPo7Zfyt8cAhKZPMuhoxvcyc8Q_RPJJ66fLjMGnd6Y8yZR2zbtz5lzsfJttxBDjZeldeqhQO0drqnFjYX0nC2sUc/s1600/jeff+221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjQtZuNYKV67aeg7Br0YljkhzeM-D0eHszdF4OuQiWYDB2uW0N2JqPo7Zfyt8cAhKZPMuhoxvcyc8Q_RPJJ66fLjMGnd6Y8yZR2zbtz5lzsfJttxBDjZeldeqhQO0drqnFjYX0nC2sUc/s320/jeff+221.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...blooming cactus in these canyons... called cardones in argentina, they live to be hundreds of years old...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq4aRf-dpM6DrF68STPqRUZ4hDUys9YVqFp8LA1XWgejInjPqAwb8kODgj38OOF7PE71661UWuCNqv-XY7eWVPqVCrN9_pA1zIo71K2LvzJiqz8IAyXEZ_UKbGPmhmJQpJ6w_N25ULk1g/s1600/jeff+222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq4aRf-dpM6DrF68STPqRUZ4hDUys9YVqFp8LA1XWgejInjPqAwb8kODgj38OOF7PE71661UWuCNqv-XY7eWVPqVCrN9_pA1zIo71K2LvzJiqz8IAyXEZ_UKbGPmhmJQpJ6w_N25ULk1g/s200/jeff+222.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirhMIC-cFLU9TSlXNuVG2R0z70u3iWQstCyY9q6shUkC-MZ3UrxHNQ8LZp9tn1p94vVwCgMjt43M3qxoP9bsobCy6NKXplZJDAgvQT98Vo_ZtnQtkuFi_wnvoIeuz5Uw1WQJ2Tz2Q6kEw/s1600/jeff+217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirhMIC-cFLU9TSlXNuVG2R0z70u3iWQstCyY9q6shUkC-MZ3UrxHNQ8LZp9tn1p94vVwCgMjt43M3qxoP9bsobCy6NKXplZJDAgvQT98Vo_ZtnQtkuFi_wnvoIeuz5Uw1WQJ2Tz2Q6kEw/s320/jeff+217.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">along this stretch we started seeing lots of roadside shrines like this one, slightly puzzling...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzch3fIm0_8MXkhiPsv9WtaVkDDQpD4mtMGEtiYA1MHrjIFY3CHencQ68JOr3xDkZCYAWZsThtDyGEFvilIUYOf3sBUuNG3NF-9DJh2s6Y_XYf0zB95nxENTCxhDQGEvm-lFBVc3-MXQ/s1600/jeff+223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzch3fIm0_8MXkhiPsv9WtaVkDDQpD4mtMGEtiYA1MHrjIFY3CHencQ68JOr3xDkZCYAWZsThtDyGEFvilIUYOf3sBUuNG3NF-9DJh2s6Y_XYf0zB95nxENTCxhDQGEvm-lFBVc3-MXQ/s320/jeff+223.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">descending this canyon to Belén</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9w6X6X4NGzEbJ44CzBcTFIEBdhsvRxvl30ik3c0_lS28efSrVhToz-ky1ouNbxnhwhvUKFYdUmffIxGzo8XDHXVomvKbyu1F1V_M6lPTEphSAdt2khhG4Wzg0CVfe-ND-BDS21gy1q3U/s1600/jeff+225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9w6X6X4NGzEbJ44CzBcTFIEBdhsvRxvl30ik3c0_lS28efSrVhToz-ky1ouNbxnhwhvUKFYdUmffIxGzo8XDHXVomvKbyu1F1V_M6lPTEphSAdt2khhG4Wzg0CVfe-ND-BDS21gy1q3U/s320/jeff+225.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we never saw one of these in Peru, but this is a Peruvian Dog (mythical rumored dog of the Incas) seen in Belén. Hairless except for its head and a tuft on its tail... it reminded us of Ren more than anything. He kind of behaved like Ren, too.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUDg16gn7Dgs2oOArgxYRtipalKxeZYRcYFF9Ftd-YUkLOPeRL_fnZIkGVUtZJVvPV9MB6Amj5OHITUG8l4U0k2AoIw36e_T0zbgXHXNAR4KFWFxWF9bcYwWSvnYGN1Y1S3uZj2uUkkMg/s1600/jeff+226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUDg16gn7Dgs2oOArgxYRtipalKxeZYRcYFF9Ftd-YUkLOPeRL_fnZIkGVUtZJVvPV9MB6Amj5OHITUG8l4U0k2AoIw36e_T0zbgXHXNAR4KFWFxWF9bcYwWSvnYGN1Y1S3uZj2uUkkMg/s400/jeff+226.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">mostly-flat, easy riding, but interminable in a way, especially since we had varying-strength headwinds along this whole segment</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCaAM9lOPXeYhwLa_vAIh05w1Wa3f9-pT4CZU0s5LrW3BnHDuDeQKNfwsk1i6FHu5G9xDmjjv_KNHT2jXqLmiYjosn2cJmBAdG3aeWylX4lqt9HHr_pqpbl5zfu4nrZE4OKPV10X3IHOM/s1600/jeff+227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCaAM9lOPXeYhwLa_vAIh05w1Wa3f9-pT4CZU0s5LrW3BnHDuDeQKNfwsk1i6FHu5G9xDmjjv_KNHT2jXqLmiYjosn2cJmBAdG3aeWylX4lqt9HHr_pqpbl5zfu4nrZE4OKPV10X3IHOM/s320/jeff+227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this shrine was so ostentatious we stopped to check it out. And learned all kinds of interesting things... </div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGeA2AqmWALGYGQLjhdGXspSBv01OwjXBWRCu2765bu9a-h1N427-klDcq709goC-_GscyNKq3DKLQBYfW-MICscPZABJPRt_1jS96gt3ixK6OqHSq3ZqqsNkx7hKLlK8mH5gql-mSFE/s1600/jeff+229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGeA2AqmWALGYGQLjhdGXspSBv01OwjXBWRCu2765bu9a-h1N427-klDcq709goC-_GscyNKq3DKLQBYfW-MICscPZABJPRt_1jS96gt3ixK6OqHSq3ZqqsNkx7hKLlK8mH5gql-mSFE/s320/jeff+229.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...the shrine is to Gauchito Gil, and the faithful leave offerings of beer bottles, wine, coca leaves, money, car and motorcycle parts, cigarrettes, etc. etc.. In a way it reminds us of the shrines to Santa Muerte in Mexico and San Simon in Guatemala, as well as the figure-less ones all over Colombia along roadways and high passes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL36xtCzSjdHJgn21utueQCxlWF2c9ZAqOnBufgFd1BIDeeF-T0jEK60JP-qcRPcEVGvzoTb7xK_peFJaxpUrsma6Xq1k5dUKc97CawtNNWp-gQGIsFQSkn7A7zfqmHCVAsJhxiLHo2FI/s1600/jeff+234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL36xtCzSjdHJgn21utueQCxlWF2c9ZAqOnBufgFd1BIDeeF-T0jEK60JP-qcRPcEVGvzoTb7xK_peFJaxpUrsma6Xq1k5dUKc97CawtNNWp-gQGIsFQSkn7A7zfqmHCVAsJhxiLHo2FI/s200/jeff+234.jpg" width="150" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">wWe found this book at the shrine, which explains the cult of Gauchito Gil. As the story goes, in the second half of the 19th century, when there were cruel civil wars occurring all over the country, he was a young gaucho (cowboy) from the province of Corrientes who deserted the army (he didn't believe in the fighting) and began robbing the rich landowners and helping the poor (Robin Hood-style). He was later captured and murdered unceremoniously by the army, who slit his throat and hung him in a mesquite tree along a road.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF03jVxayOuZcqahyre5X2U6CvJvBzMT-SHR3rhAJq1oypDKDGE6xPx7rv01rFKB_dgmnEGOfvo9lJyjRxiaWgft5OShKwFAttRzrJhLChkYhzjIXWtEUzR_6bmi2FoofdTQpdJ1FZ-XA/s1600/jeff+233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF03jVxayOuZcqahyre5X2U6CvJvBzMT-SHR3rhAJq1oypDKDGE6xPx7rv01rFKB_dgmnEGOfvo9lJyjRxiaWgft5OShKwFAttRzrJhLChkYhzjIXWtEUzR_6bmi2FoofdTQpdJ1FZ-XA/s200/jeff+233.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The classic image of Gauchito Gil. The cross represents his cruel death (Jesus-like), the blue shirt represents his love for Argentina, the red neckerchief symbolizes the manner of his death, and the metal balls on the string are the tool he used to steal cattle. His shrines are almost always found beneath mesquite trees.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ltHR_Lsca1yOEOsDhzrR9K2TcjPFxtEpcTCUjSchuhnBtQb4fqsnYVGevTuoibiDtPAlAvWKAuqX-L8GhyjCy7ZwikHu6uBQMDn2Yv6KXLOO6Yz_Bb04z5qW_y5YXL2lmzUKUahxMG0/s1600/jeff+232.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ltHR_Lsca1yOEOsDhzrR9K2TcjPFxtEpcTCUjSchuhnBtQb4fqsnYVGevTuoibiDtPAlAvWKAuqX-L8GhyjCy7ZwikHu6uBQMDn2Yv6KXLOO6Yz_Bb04z5qW_y5YXL2lmzUKUahxMG0/s320/jeff+232.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">an example of a thank-you note from a follower, it reads "thank you Gauchito Gil for keeping me healthy". According to the legend, Gil told his executioner at the moment of his death that when he (the executioner) returned home, he would find his young son terminally ill, but that his son would miraculously recover. This is in fact what happened, and when the news spread, Gil was nearly immediately a pagan saint. His cult continues growing. He is known as the protector of the open road, of travellers, the benevolent outlaw who helps the less fortunate. </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzDyLYUBSv-ssreSkRBWUeKS7sui0yM9MmQP-j8fuTmKEUwRHddMXBpoBwYu7jYjq2_m1tVKXX7yuUzz2byuDC3qInILYR42tX8aNtwkzYdyH7V-yis9i5VIqqBBg-JA3YHCFr6f0p5s/s1600/jeff+239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzDyLYUBSv-ssreSkRBWUeKS7sui0yM9MmQP-j8fuTmKEUwRHddMXBpoBwYu7jYjq2_m1tVKXX7yuUzz2byuDC3qInILYR42tX8aNtwkzYdyH7V-yis9i5VIqqBBg-JA3YHCFr6f0p5s/s320/jeff+239.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our campsite in a wash. There were so many thorns here that Jeff had 5 punctures to fix in the morning.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcy7UeFibE0PPsJr9IcyC7AV8F26pOVR4Lw-kdTAFHq7_N2xm_ecmn64WwJosH2m2Mvb1RfIanduEYcnPe1_d_EzvKtjiuBARGtgCAUgVu3zfyXuh4z-zofhKPV1XIzbnq_XH_ViUWzPw/s1600/jeff+249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcy7UeFibE0PPsJr9IcyC7AV8F26pOVR4Lw-kdTAFHq7_N2xm_ecmn64WwJosH2m2Mvb1RfIanduEYcnPe1_d_EzvKtjiuBARGtgCAUgVu3zfyXuh4z-zofhKPV1XIzbnq_XH_ViUWzPw/s320/jeff+249.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Perhaps inevitable, but a prayer was made to Gauchito Gil, this on Xmas Day. After 11 punctures since entering Argentina, not to mention an exploded valve and some broken spokes (all suffered by Jeff), we figured it might do some good to beseech Gil...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLmYm7xD4l6CI8Ny-2t9vcdGwlGAeZWf6QsC5PwJH1heOKQpgiLpxpIUFIUewmeeeJrUxdVOpH0hPL0_E7ceu4Obbj1Nf4_QnSIRyNajvMSmpQ-CWgxQSXZEQCeUjjtovyZBgvyvm7BBM/s1600/jeff+248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLmYm7xD4l6CI8Ny-2t9vcdGwlGAeZWf6QsC5PwJH1heOKQpgiLpxpIUFIUewmeeeJrUxdVOpH0hPL0_E7ceu4Obbj1Nf4_QnSIRyNajvMSmpQ-CWgxQSXZEQCeUjjtovyZBgvyvm7BBM/s320/jeff+248.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the prayer is made by lighting a candle in the shrine, and asking Gil for the specific assistance you need. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSnLi25vEx5AwXsKLn3MY8-wScpA6UnbvasbDJQXUbYpS8r36G6KodR5kQ3SKdKHNsUU4vv-4OGURY8a7RKhFX_MSV7yBkQ8v56_G3uuiJSWncVFSqtoS5ED0iQFP75_rI-OH0EsNk7pA/s1600/jeff+251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSnLi25vEx5AwXsKLn3MY8-wScpA6UnbvasbDJQXUbYpS8r36G6KodR5kQ3SKdKHNsUU4vv-4OGURY8a7RKhFX_MSV7yBkQ8v56_G3uuiJSWncVFSqtoS5ED0iQFP75_rI-OH0EsNk7pA/s320/jeff+251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">more Burrowing Parrots, seen near San Blas</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidhtnOAGDckw5ZsmkYhRDVdqk18nQRB6FW6c-QpRZ7-mErN2LAEp_9OhPGohvPy7SUPhCThjB8ZUKNlMaJ7qmx2njeZ_wrWeMiQHaNoQAXX8uinAoU4zSpHZXpg6ACkdnHxxQKTicf3VQ/s1600/jeff+255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidhtnOAGDckw5ZsmkYhRDVdqk18nQRB6FW6c-QpRZ7-mErN2LAEp_9OhPGohvPy7SUPhCThjB8ZUKNlMaJ7qmx2njeZ_wrWeMiQHaNoQAXX8uinAoU4zSpHZXpg6ACkdnHxxQKTicf3VQ/s320/jeff+255.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">they get their name from the nests they burrow out of cliffsides and mudbanks</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDhS9-2oa1n-W_x3Cdt2qRL81yxROg36uC6ZVgxq5QlbbwhlCH9M9I7LhZTUEzFuEC4ckoqYIrIPRTR9D4KWwsB6M4kwk3w2O6y-Ek7OpsOOAa9sphGZoH-XdJQj2gcG3EpbQc-MtNcI/s1600/jeff+242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDhS9-2oa1n-W_x3Cdt2qRL81yxROg36uC6ZVgxq5QlbbwhlCH9M9I7LhZTUEzFuEC4ckoqYIrIPRTR9D4KWwsB6M4kwk3w2O6y-Ek7OpsOOAa9sphGZoH-XdJQj2gcG3EpbQc-MtNcI/s320/jeff+242.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">As if the Gauchito Gil cult wasn't enough, we found another one on this route, as extensive as the Gil cult! This one is to Difunta Correa. Her shrines typically feature lots of full and empty water bottles strewn about, in addition to car tires, amongst other things.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCzDZnb8NxHsJP_I1osQTXiL8WlsHAnmDYYbVo5ZnR0aho4MGrGo41GQgIsf8D45qS0odqOa8MuuQdwqbhxF1OxbXbIyrAcsiLckRMhmZ7gnVkCx-qHTkjsiKppCPMHVVHHXpsiIc6dE/s1600/jeff+244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCzDZnb8NxHsJP_I1osQTXiL8WlsHAnmDYYbVo5ZnR0aho4MGrGo41GQgIsf8D45qS0odqOa8MuuQdwqbhxF1OxbXbIyrAcsiLckRMhmZ7gnVkCx-qHTkjsiKppCPMHVVHHXpsiIc6dE/s320/jeff+244.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div><div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">admittedly, we were puzzled when we saw this inside the shrine, the figures of Difunta Correa. A dead chaste-looking woman with an arm stretched out as if in desperate supplication, and always accompanied by a young boy who is feeding at her breast...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb8jjFu1TQUQYJ9W1_cSIZyTFU6fzfjO4oOqfA3Gss6_BHxukXRcmoneBsiPPcPdvZ64FS9MG-aZ8FD7lJGZSyjcKR_hMKT0HlaGx2X4vvcmqSrtCTo4D6b9owxqLtbps4aL_lh0QT4uc/s1600/jeff+237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb8jjFu1TQUQYJ9W1_cSIZyTFU6fzfjO4oOqfA3Gss6_BHxukXRcmoneBsiPPcPdvZ64FS9MG-aZ8FD7lJGZSyjcKR_hMKT0HlaGx2X4vvcmqSrtCTo4D6b9owxqLtbps4aL_lh0QT4uc/s320/jeff+237.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwA9GRUDBGlOap6F1Ln4mnA61maBXLu75RPmiGYzPrHUICtx8To7BguP5KfEZfgEGWy-m0StoTzFYLyvONw1AFKVjfz6xh0OmXOcMZEXD7VNsjMu1nGKA13mG5i6_UIkwZ-Dz5by1jmQ/s1600/jeff+238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwA9GRUDBGlOap6F1Ln4mnA61maBXLu75RPmiGYzPrHUICtx8To7BguP5KfEZfgEGWy-m0StoTzFYLyvONw1AFKVjfz6xh0OmXOcMZEXD7VNsjMu1nGKA13mG5i6_UIkwZ-Dz5by1jmQ/s320/jeff+238.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">flag expressing thanks to Difunta Correa for a supposed intermediation between the supplicator and God. As the story of Difunta Correa goes (year 1835), she was a young woman (22y.o.) living in San Juan, Argentina, married and with a young son. The police commisioner took a fancy to her, and deported her husband to La Rioja, a city some 500km away. Although she refused the commissioner's advances, he made life miserable for her, and she fled to go join her husband. Unfortunately, the journey to La Rioja in that time (and today too, we swear) was a perilous one in endless desert, and she ran out of water. She climbed a small hill near Vallecito, and there she made a desperate final prayer to God that when she died her infant son could continue feeding (from her breast) and survive. Some time later, two muledrivers saw vultures circling in the air and assumed one of their animals had died. Instead, they found Difunta Correa lying there dead with her infant son sucking at her breast, alive. This "miracle" story soon spread all over the region and she instantly became a pagan saint. </div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyMRMTDlP5aeF1_K5mTqLBVoouv5yjRUevDWKmroUKn2YtIy6_FS-e3oJuUwxXJ57YIMoPTUBVTcn-MOr3PbkaS7K6OF-Eth19hxEns7S6DyMPYNeihPam4BkPQXuRb4OzKxBDK34TLk8/s1600/jeff+260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyMRMTDlP5aeF1_K5mTqLBVoouv5yjRUevDWKmroUKn2YtIy6_FS-e3oJuUwxXJ57YIMoPTUBVTcn-MOr3PbkaS7K6OF-Eth19hxEns7S6DyMPYNeihPam4BkPQXuRb4OzKxBDK34TLk8/s320/jeff+260.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">city-block-like burial vaults seen at Pituil</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjifAJbsKgPGEcdrHAaWxl08-hvQ5NI2YmrjQ5E5RfIFaWNmdfwmXG2zTrJTbH7Z7hTHHFs1Pw2jONRJZ07ty2pPf2pnRI5rzhLTJ7BH9Z8r6jzwErl1f39bktHKOg4n0C0ZiC65yldUpU/s1600/jeff+261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjifAJbsKgPGEcdrHAaWxl08-hvQ5NI2YmrjQ5E5RfIFaWNmdfwmXG2zTrJTbH7Z7hTHHFs1Pw2jONRJZ07ty2pPf2pnRI5rzhLTJ7BH9Z8r6jzwErl1f39bktHKOg4n0C0ZiC65yldUpU/s320/jeff+261.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">more of the same cemetary</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihKj13nT21J8PwNrLQtLfA07r2_IlSgLnDDbQOVtKWlntqCUWBE0VE9Uuqmww7QfqNIOpkuBYPA8CiXq9zop4RR1k3WOjtXurs47DgeQlk7rCtqygeopW9w-7fILtAHuJmuDjUX19Gj9k/s1600/jeff+262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihKj13nT21J8PwNrLQtLfA07r2_IlSgLnDDbQOVtKWlntqCUWBE0VE9Uuqmww7QfqNIOpkuBYPA8CiXq9zop4RR1k3WOjtXurs47DgeQlk7rCtqygeopW9w-7fILtAHuJmuDjUX19Gj9k/s200/jeff+262.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this more like a bread oven than a coffin</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH6QL3oBMEVfclwLvo_GLzefER1vEn2d2H6C0ut6Zuvso104EHfHciLoUJjqmKVYU3IWTVVjC5cgtNdA8uK-UUnwXdf4XYCxSFCEz4IJWgdrZmC8259dR3BXABCnlV6tLdqVMmbDk8V90/s1600/jeff+265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH6QL3oBMEVfclwLvo_GLzefER1vEn2d2H6C0ut6Zuvso104EHfHciLoUJjqmKVYU3IWTVVjC5cgtNdA8uK-UUnwXdf4XYCxSFCEz4IJWgdrZmC8259dR3BXABCnlV6tLdqVMmbDk8V90/s320/jeff+265.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">another shrine, to another saint (this one canonized at least, if not controversially): San Expedito. By this point, it has become clear that Argentina is full of saints and cults. And its true, there are many more even besides the three shown on this page.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IKqUphy2jGxjJsSDwOwSR2WoTexjIDLnVSnNeBzBDFum1cSvKG2ncMePodqWZiMpetawz42l_BmDCLbedT4J5JKjHDSs7IfXds6vEIs2s7ic18Wtis9zrAIbbFZlWQIDiI-bU9iVM5M/s1600/jeff+263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IKqUphy2jGxjJsSDwOwSR2WoTexjIDLnVSnNeBzBDFum1cSvKG2ncMePodqWZiMpetawz42l_BmDCLbedT4J5JKjHDSs7IfXds6vEIs2s7ic18Wtis9zrAIbbFZlWQIDiI-bU9iVM5M/s320/jeff+263.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">his shrines seem to be accompanied by flower pots </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmJXVRwvyy4wLxIiQWMT9x20745W7WpaP7r3wpkjqkWxfGwIO36IK9h_an9pCwuDe2pZkmI_yFyn6GnxUVShvucP7Li4NQPyBFQhdnfHapEPI8RvLeznJWFvCqxHBkDe5grAeAdBx-xn0/s1600/jeff+264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmJXVRwvyy4wLxIiQWMT9x20745W7WpaP7r3wpkjqkWxfGwIO36IK9h_an9pCwuDe2pZkmI_yFyn6GnxUVShvucP7Li4NQPyBFQhdnfHapEPI8RvLeznJWFvCqxHBkDe5grAeAdBx-xn0/s200/jeff+264.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">San Expedito himself. It seems that he is the saint of rapidity, invoked for urgent causes, especially for dealers, sailors and students. His cult goes back to the middle ages, apparently.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhupSfgJnYTGtFHOL5JnDuHmQQBPRwd11jfpRIUsTeVfxUegMH2dKBA1h-lcbTit-s81gHPodB_G04nwbTjGJMqhPzyLK6j75Dablvf2KRY7vBNvavgvxVrNqSR2V3avYQQU0-EdxiIDsw/s1600/jeff+266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhupSfgJnYTGtFHOL5JnDuHmQQBPRwd11jfpRIUsTeVfxUegMH2dKBA1h-lcbTit-s81gHPodB_G04nwbTjGJMqhPzyLK6j75Dablvf2KRY7vBNvavgvxVrNqSR2V3avYQQU0-EdxiIDsw/s320/jeff+266.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our campsite for the night of December 25th</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtCj6W-XJMCaTp3bGAlgzNlAx-TcVx2uP9n854A87dRNL2_UBtCmW2RULvXbxL6xUwyDIvEciFXefo7W3uF8UJV0hGXbVHdKcMhZIn9vljzY8ISN8u6MqGK4hu2cNhMUZ23UShlmM9XA/s1600/jeff+267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtCj6W-XJMCaTp3bGAlgzNlAx-TcVx2uP9n854A87dRNL2_UBtCmW2RULvXbxL6xUwyDIvEciFXefo7W3uF8UJV0hGXbVHdKcMhZIn9vljzY8ISN8u6MqGK4hu2cNhMUZ23UShlmM9XA/s200/jeff+267.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom showing off his sunburn</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIE_tR60gk0WCU5DKHU-CjvW9k9kjLdQr8kQaALN0T6jo14RDWBJMiG9kZiLPQlO6rsgN_EzHTbRVPUWWXQKHhS72l8RDErQHYE3EXWbPeHevX-Xv7V8vDvFoFth0JsY13g8-OutW_uxU/s1600/jeff+269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIE_tR60gk0WCU5DKHU-CjvW9k9kjLdQr8kQaALN0T6jo14RDWBJMiG9kZiLPQlO6rsgN_EzHTbRVPUWWXQKHhS72l8RDErQHYE3EXWbPeHevX-Xv7V8vDvFoFth0JsY13g8-OutW_uxU/s320/jeff+269.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we drank some wine and played guitar for hours to celebrate </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYSlj9gAv4EpZ9U20rp8LozZvlIj51BpXnXfB_pHiQ20JTsFO3nGPpi3PV-h9NB8EQFAdw59Nrm5OYxuHCiaOCplIFi2Nk7A6Y40VsI7lqd3K1Z4nXLvLMXaMyGMmqGEoFeOVilmYW1oo/s1600/jeff+272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYSlj9gAv4EpZ9U20rp8LozZvlIj51BpXnXfB_pHiQ20JTsFO3nGPpi3PV-h9NB8EQFAdw59Nrm5OYxuHCiaOCplIFi2Nk7A6Y40VsI7lqd3K1Z4nXLvLMXaMyGMmqGEoFeOVilmYW1oo/s400/jeff+272.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">sunrise the following morning </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRGhIZIZOuo4eqojaofZQM6PxV9oQMymKTSUa06NlNxwpbqYDQOB_J4klvWvcztRw2kxwTPNIJVeS2qn4efWlZVGZeCRIGF0HkaaXy8lWeKBK902Bixoi8bNrEBfg5PynTdAjxj9Y_pbs/s1600/jeff+274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRGhIZIZOuo4eqojaofZQM6PxV9oQMymKTSUa06NlNxwpbqYDQOB_J4klvWvcztRw2kxwTPNIJVeS2qn4efWlZVGZeCRIGF0HkaaXy8lWeKBK902Bixoi8bNrEBfg5PynTdAjxj9Y_pbs/s200/jeff+274.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">en route to Chilecito</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarzJbAORs4NIxeW1EVV1TwggYmtK1y01j0hFv-kuaM_IG2W75uem7kk_ElOykPe0-4bcaf34ev7VTw0IF4V7Z8ysW1WZBlur-RJ0S-voLCPklHL-P4m2RR_F7t3I5t2h6hYjnFXUkXIg/s1600/jeff+275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarzJbAORs4NIxeW1EVV1TwggYmtK1y01j0hFv-kuaM_IG2W75uem7kk_ElOykPe0-4bcaf34ev7VTw0IF4V7Z8ysW1WZBlur-RJ0S-voLCPklHL-P4m2RR_F7t3I5t2h6hYjnFXUkXIg/s320/jeff+275.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in Chilecito, we were hosted for an afternoon by Benito, owner of Hostal Paiman. Very friendly, he offered us showers, mate, a place to rest, and the opportunity to pick all the ripe plums we wanted from his plum tree:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4DIu78ZJxLL5tRHVAjm3mzWjDBQGJnRaJrNTY-GZalr5cZJtE0hejcbccP7ckXMrErRnoDIB-BlMqap204ktQYyN1y-8BhIvE382-SqvcM693YXkx8yJdszSfUXW3uzKeoKPy-FvutFE/s1600/jeff+278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4DIu78ZJxLL5tRHVAjm3mzWjDBQGJnRaJrNTY-GZalr5cZJtE0hejcbccP7ckXMrErRnoDIB-BlMqap204ktQYyN1y-8BhIvE382-SqvcM693YXkx8yJdszSfUXW3uzKeoKPy-FvutFE/s200/jeff+278.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUINrScVQm8HaKgXxOFN9LL4ilECBo2Aj-X4-90hGzLi9pLPJDMWT-3UiRA8UOwefty0Ma43ZqqEEu8hDA2uoVWqKKYGGUy_MMUx_uUQruDx1MLpDz8yorAHmY5-2wi9omWd2vISSgU7I/s1600/jeff+279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUINrScVQm8HaKgXxOFN9LL4ilECBo2Aj-X4-90hGzLi9pLPJDMWT-3UiRA8UOwefty0Ma43ZqqEEu8hDA2uoVWqKKYGGUy_MMUx_uUQruDx1MLpDz8yorAHmY5-2wi9omWd2vISSgU7I/s200/jeff+279.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">leaving Chilecito at night, we encountered this sign ominously announcing the distance to our final destination, 4000km.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4XyA1agtJjR1px_PGCojqL4G4U3Wd3H4zOJuJ9_jvzJCFf684bGCsN839qSyDoWFJgMxBXR5DbtfE2ktak6_qe_Bup3mWxk6WM6fddlch08CaBtoKQXhLHbbtfjx90dypmtEmotV4bbQ/s1600/jeff+281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4XyA1agtJjR1px_PGCojqL4G4U3Wd3H4zOJuJ9_jvzJCFf684bGCsN839qSyDoWFJgMxBXR5DbtfE2ktak6_qe_Bup3mWxk6WM6fddlch08CaBtoKQXhLHbbtfjx90dypmtEmotV4bbQ/s200/jeff+281.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">called criollos, we found these in a bread shop in Nonogasta. They are little pie-like pastries with quince filling. Delicious.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyYNsTdzimJ301n5zDsHUug4rXEYAXb8-pvbAIG8iYnkmZbJfhmB-JLIGS-WT81armG8SPw_Wr_VlZC5E1i41He6Gmna3ftIoflZj2r16d7BI4xgkmxMyIg__k1Mdbgi85WuB4A1prdiM/s1600/jeff+284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyYNsTdzimJ301n5zDsHUug4rXEYAXb8-pvbAIG8iYnkmZbJfhmB-JLIGS-WT81armG8SPw_Wr_VlZC5E1i41He6Gmna3ftIoflZj2r16d7BI4xgkmxMyIg__k1Mdbgi85WuB4A1prdiM/s320/jeff+284.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this species sang for us nearly this whole segment of the trip</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3cvHUeq0YyGZSZmqwEAvgbfzpooPJb2Rrq9dY6nNpny3BIpnunzQKsrMjNs6WKVsWCSpIyOG3FeEEPV6GamgXQgswuQ6GkEx9qQ0XQljXBvrPZPP7FVnOUmlCY_vmWu9dxHV1UopRPsE/s1600/jeff+286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3cvHUeq0YyGZSZmqwEAvgbfzpooPJb2Rrq9dY6nNpny3BIpnunzQKsrMjNs6WKVsWCSpIyOG3FeEEPV6GamgXQgswuQ6GkEx9qQ0XQljXBvrPZPP7FVnOUmlCY_vmWu9dxHV1UopRPsE/s320/jeff+286.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In Sañogasta, we rested for the entire day in the park, where Jeff rebuilt his back wheel, tossing aside the one purchased in Colombia in June. This due to a completely unreasonable spate of broken spokes of late .</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKfs2kD5w7HDSpdCHUq6j6Kb83DLFNBeGuYLgGnZbwVJuMzEcdYmw-ajjuNAiSaNFjKkeHdiZ4mZBsE5TK67qcstyplWZdUKkSbD7RWWhu1ghkobC_tYdskGVMKyXe7efkN-8D5hHRtOo/s1600/jeff+287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKfs2kD5w7HDSpdCHUq6j6Kb83DLFNBeGuYLgGnZbwVJuMzEcdYmw-ajjuNAiSaNFjKkeHdiZ4mZBsE5TK67qcstyplWZdUKkSbD7RWWhu1ghkobC_tYdskGVMKyXe7efkN-8D5hHRtOo/s400/jeff+287.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...entering Cuesta de Miranda, a beautiful canyon climb and pass...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6jl1GtcMuf0zpwZnsrqVid0-grOQNZ9BeUWcY2ZHs0jYz4RGg4cv0NUvGhstcjr9CyDvCOT1BEeYjRFq26d1zuViLLKyeEeZDXxJEjiz9EArya5RWi2lSQ_7cYepNys5qrZaig2fU8qU/s1600/jeff+289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6jl1GtcMuf0zpwZnsrqVid0-grOQNZ9BeUWcY2ZHs0jYz4RGg4cv0NUvGhstcjr9CyDvCOT1BEeYjRFq26d1zuViLLKyeEeZDXxJEjiz9EArya5RWi2lSQ_7cYepNys5qrZaig2fU8qU/s400/jeff+289.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... the most scenic riding since we descended towards Salta...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRuhLbt4IMbOPWUwZqi9c6SmDFpkeneTfNwkyNgLLDkZ3PxDF53CohuiwQNSIiwtknL96vZJDM_9wNkqccR0wmc1C1UPuK0zcr8NBz2O3EbKKYq-qcglktP6pWFYv_8aOJqRIauvoGNtM/s1600/jeff+291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRuhLbt4IMbOPWUwZqi9c6SmDFpkeneTfNwkyNgLLDkZ3PxDF53CohuiwQNSIiwtknL96vZJDM_9wNkqccR0wmc1C1UPuK0zcr8NBz2O3EbKKYq-qcglktP6pWFYv_8aOJqRIauvoGNtM/s320/jeff+291.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtlJ8O7XePv2j5AcWh3AlUEKGL7lgFWCftnGRIKWqFzIcPz0ATLLcbzR1N2HHVmI6RImkyQfQHcgfFuA9NvDeoWhETzLkpYbEIL-tt_4G2DaEDz5Mqy8DxE94IvtUGaYHTrxWejVZbguc/s1600/jeff+293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtlJ8O7XePv2j5AcWh3AlUEKGL7lgFWCftnGRIKWqFzIcPz0ATLLcbzR1N2HHVmI6RImkyQfQHcgfFuA9NvDeoWhETzLkpYbEIL-tt_4G2DaEDz5Mqy8DxE94IvtUGaYHTrxWejVZbguc/s400/jeff+293.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM6138oxRqfFMKpZJzxHtOtXbl_UB6s-Bby4WwuHFy1TsQweaIYYXB72PG3MEMDD8ERzXhcvNYwLGfH7KltaTN35iBMWlZrlfxLZrHZ8vnWndHslz7y1lcd4lk-sL3JnqeULnZ8qhDa9I/s1600/jeff+294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM6138oxRqfFMKpZJzxHtOtXbl_UB6s-Bby4WwuHFy1TsQweaIYYXB72PG3MEMDD8ERzXhcvNYwLGfH7KltaTN35iBMWlZrlfxLZrHZ8vnWndHslz7y1lcd4lk-sL3JnqeULnZ8qhDa9I/s400/jeff+294.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwBrUe7Xrcw4sosBFGRc6rWaiI9fWhREFdjPK0a7WzqP5seZ_JelExiEdjpM7bkfLhy4aSaZcXKou7tpNwyFK5m4JSMhhuirq13f5-7vcdJasFRnIoAcSlpluDPH0gGoou2e4R6gv4a0E/s1600/jeff+296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwBrUe7Xrcw4sosBFGRc6rWaiI9fWhREFdjPK0a7WzqP5seZ_JelExiEdjpM7bkfLhy4aSaZcXKou7tpNwyFK5m4JSMhhuirq13f5-7vcdJasFRnIoAcSlpluDPH0gGoou2e4R6gv4a0E/s320/jeff+296.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this area reminded us more of Utah than of Argentina</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVhsYIut0MosP_tdx2FgaGH0QLhSoi9hW1t_KVM4j7ToYWiPrGhSZ1DSCU_D9e1LXnSTA_Q0PVnihGahxjw3e6kMHYK-ADuLPXk_T4rXHS6TsYYu647IvJDaMTYPMrRsxSnH8WIk1VB2w/s1600/jeff+298.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVhsYIut0MosP_tdx2FgaGH0QLhSoi9hW1t_KVM4j7ToYWiPrGhSZ1DSCU_D9e1LXnSTA_Q0PVnihGahxjw3e6kMHYK-ADuLPXk_T4rXHS6TsYYu647IvJDaMTYPMrRsxSnH8WIk1VB2w/s320/jeff+298.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">more desert; bullet holes in the kilometer marker</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzUvra2BNpLIDJlGl17y5hyphenhyphen8TD8G61tldefQ9LVp2Gc80tQGMZ4_iVEVKIdCzGaEIBkX1_qNEie6JuldLnjpWqllNLlF_CMvRzO_K_iaRBdl1d1UsbEhHuenpT3v88BigPpryvzCsReoE/s1600/jeff+300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzUvra2BNpLIDJlGl17y5hyphenhyphen8TD8G61tldefQ9LVp2Gc80tQGMZ4_iVEVKIdCzGaEIBkX1_qNEie6JuldLnjpWqllNLlF_CMvRzO_K_iaRBdl1d1UsbEhHuenpT3v88BigPpryvzCsReoE/s200/jeff+300.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in Villa Union, the town square has a monument to grape-pickers, since vineyards seem to be the number one economic scene along this whole stretch</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiffpncyWTyxOw2BvlICXMHZmeSzWUPRHwABzRD2xyA9vFg_95oxljT1Zxil49CH3oFru0N_a8b2exnjdgZ3JG2hVgOuNybbUvJGxEfhe3cR6vushgK8qMMbp6wWysyphc73H8oI4lI5sE/s1600/jeff+302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiffpncyWTyxOw2BvlICXMHZmeSzWUPRHwABzRD2xyA9vFg_95oxljT1Zxil49CH3oFru0N_a8b2exnjdgZ3JG2hVgOuNybbUvJGxEfhe3cR6vushgK8qMMbp6wWysyphc73H8oI4lI5sE/s200/jeff+302.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...another shrine to Difunta Correa, set on sandstone...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-nmKqoP4dmTVNggOB1n57bpPzDoq7WBXVgLZhWYRy2XzaEYXNuvo6-knxDk-vvsrScG11soE0fcP-78lcJSDyCkKs-gVd_kBQ3ORWHhMHz5bJ4Az9gjcXAxiewXSlSqSrnfJ0EWwC8E/s1600/jeff+305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-nmKqoP4dmTVNggOB1n57bpPzDoq7WBXVgLZhWYRy2XzaEYXNuvo6-knxDk-vvsrScG11soE0fcP-78lcJSDyCkKs-gVd_kBQ3ORWHhMHz5bJ4Az9gjcXAxiewXSlSqSrnfJ0EWwC8E/s320/jeff+305.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">that´s a bike frame that a devotee has offered in the foreground. Her death due to thirst is the explanation for all the water bottles her followers leave.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ebDT_GSxhVKqFKzICFTdYFPS98zUl83vDkldszebURXl0DMxZJcZcYirw3bVYH91n8smrSAXpkMJKEAHHGvCzzZ5IiSrXZwXEeZGz9Dh6K2E5TgvmW95GvzDPn7iqdRJL70-mRWVXJY/s1600/jeff+306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ebDT_GSxhVKqFKzICFTdYFPS98zUl83vDkldszebURXl0DMxZJcZcYirw3bVYH91n8smrSAXpkMJKEAHHGvCzzZ5IiSrXZwXEeZGz9Dh6K2E5TgvmW95GvzDPn7iqdRJL70-mRWVXJY/s320/jeff+306.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">these figurines as always evoke a morbid and puzzling emotion</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwXw9h4XxXVFKldAiDvxdd7yk_pZpZoE4ZdvCdsMa3LBpNXxRzBqUBZPqM1HX03vacVcSGnz2ZzAuA0iBkqjvQ5F0eqRNAcl4ArHbCqBG_GBKVC63X-MzbuCO28TtRrSz1lt1X_CNu7q0/s1600/jeff+301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwXw9h4XxXVFKldAiDvxdd7yk_pZpZoE4ZdvCdsMa3LBpNXxRzBqUBZPqM1HX03vacVcSGnz2ZzAuA0iBkqjvQ5F0eqRNAcl4ArHbCqBG_GBKVC63X-MzbuCO28TtRrSz1lt1X_CNu7q0/s400/jeff+301.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...riding to great afternoon skyscapes...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8g4N92C6VPFAM0cdgbt98QJZV-PrPCu6OBltlbNLW_i15c28fGaxghb65G5jkDfNHQk9cM2Yr8PpjZO2P5nijNtEFePLO6oOEAJtYJqzXwnYo5XLYQLbdpNEI7yDbqOQPxrdaOJYScMc/s1600/jeff+308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8g4N92C6VPFAM0cdgbt98QJZV-PrPCu6OBltlbNLW_i15c28fGaxghb65G5jkDfNHQk9cM2Yr8PpjZO2P5nijNtEFePLO6oOEAJtYJqzXwnYo5XLYQLbdpNEI7yDbqOQPxrdaOJYScMc/s320/jeff+308.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBFdj9SQmqeh6pu748k3j2doWGEQv0H0lb8zi9nu7En9NN5fEaYLGq5_tVXZz4CVZUNPAXNZANEUxoI7z7nxtgAhSXgiT414j_-Gf8SNP8nuh_Wsy3xzEakl9wWcVUxYkYL0DAR-r9_54/s1600/jeff+309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBFdj9SQmqeh6pu748k3j2doWGEQv0H0lb8zi9nu7En9NN5fEaYLGq5_tVXZz4CVZUNPAXNZANEUxoI7z7nxtgAhSXgiT414j_-Gf8SNP8nuh_Wsy3xzEakl9wWcVUxYkYL0DAR-r9_54/s400/jeff+309.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBveMYAhJyq3b2-Zp9RSrCVFMqwER_6dmUzkPENKwSezWpa7BCvTNtdFWAXEuVNf4jkXuDExslNtx3MjT7FB1nVgtYQqDOeiWGI7moLfkM3Alez_Vkq77CgsWNVMvw-WnWGOYzn1qlh90/s1600/jeff+313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBveMYAhJyq3b2-Zp9RSrCVFMqwER_6dmUzkPENKwSezWpa7BCvTNtdFWAXEuVNf4jkXuDExslNtx3MjT7FB1nVgtYQqDOeiWGI7moLfkM3Alez_Vkq77CgsWNVMvw-WnWGOYzn1qlh90/s400/jeff+313.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">sunrise between Guandacol and Chilecito</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaxfPU2ZDALmTbIiOVLdSUOQG1Mw8JCLM4-iGCM8U4reV8P8-xc3zyC2rmF8DLOTDcF90tBxy3z3TYu5H_hambPi_DpdoN4BxhtE1oxtF7sOE62IH5mqyIsPVm2YJZWhf5ok894EMGtcM/s1600/jeff+315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaxfPU2ZDALmTbIiOVLdSUOQG1Mw8JCLM4-iGCM8U4reV8P8-xc3zyC2rmF8DLOTDcF90tBxy3z3TYu5H_hambPi_DpdoN4BxhtE1oxtF7sOE62IH5mqyIsPVm2YJZWhf5ok894EMGtcM/s320/jeff+315.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">only 312 km more to Mendoza. Too bad the photo can't evoke the 45-Celcius (113F) temps we are riding through.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4rXxwCSV0g1UcPjsTtMW5sKosuwmf4YrhFB4tNG-D_cVMxQTnXvSyio4jeukK6rFdkQ0Z4998-uqdNEJoTyKcaGhrQlJq_5XZtSskBGzEZhwbc9H_QNKESI8YfDiDpFhiqacrdKg-Vbo/s1600/jeff+317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4rXxwCSV0g1UcPjsTtMW5sKosuwmf4YrhFB4tNG-D_cVMxQTnXvSyio4jeukK6rFdkQ0Z4998-uqdNEJoTyKcaGhrQlJq_5XZtSskBGzEZhwbc9H_QNKESI8YfDiDpFhiqacrdKg-Vbo/s320/jeff+317.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... great dusk colors...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgokbezdTQD9b2deWERVLZWKDwraeyNDqYKyLwcrByJEl-KiZLRHZ5CPKVsB9FOtM7Sm4bBSLn_PppaQou5jh_GdpSFYHp8YkdUHwWpvM6u5_hl34jEn8duuBOuvVrrGQSoOtOFTC5urj4/s1600/jeff+320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgokbezdTQD9b2deWERVLZWKDwraeyNDqYKyLwcrByJEl-KiZLRHZ5CPKVsB9FOtM7Sm4bBSLn_PppaQou5jh_GdpSFYHp8YkdUHwWpvM6u5_hl34jEn8duuBOuvVrrGQSoOtOFTC5urj4/s400/jeff+320.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-NH55qZUmUEJGu5Q3m9xnb6azE_C7Vf-OFRkhWHcpwVvXUY9Jv93XPtqFPcW1lNp9xmM-_wqLzcaCW_n7ryKbkRg2XLKwcwcicVPHwADKna7BuZQ2K5IXozlDjAXA80H0pIzE1QryAkg/s1600/jeff+324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-NH55qZUmUEJGu5Q3m9xnb6azE_C7Vf-OFRkhWHcpwVvXUY9Jv93XPtqFPcW1lNp9xmM-_wqLzcaCW_n7ryKbkRg2XLKwcwcicVPHwADKna7BuZQ2K5IXozlDjAXA80H0pIzE1QryAkg/s200/jeff+324.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in San Juan, we rested in a public plaza, happy to find a refuge with water and no thorns</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdABbpY7zEmSkvl4a71L8vaTAFgV6-0Lss8h6PApDf25qsdXU4byTFEPyruvIwWl8fNJuril0i-B_Ie6IC98LyKmRm0P8UxO63uvJTHt5HElUnHDczk96Y1Y1qM7BjYx5ermyhUElogko/s1600/jeff+325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdABbpY7zEmSkvl4a71L8vaTAFgV6-0Lss8h6PApDf25qsdXU4byTFEPyruvIwWl8fNJuril0i-B_Ie6IC98LyKmRm0P8UxO63uvJTHt5HElUnHDczk96Y1Y1qM7BjYx5ermyhUElogko/s320/jeff+325.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the last stretch into Mendoza: flat, and with a headwind</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6Y79SY-jc-vUt-DXgIYXEv5sU1dMgEPo8th6tqgUQajMzklqY-TP4GnegvdmfPDDtdqKR9e6YGH1iDGYKdRZn_HL127NTna9O7E3KlPsHl49GG6zjrLcm7x3MV2LWbyJjlnIgnPBV2o/s1600/jeff+327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6Y79SY-jc-vUt-DXgIYXEv5sU1dMgEPo8th6tqgUQajMzklqY-TP4GnegvdmfPDDtdqKR9e6YGH1iDGYKdRZn_HL127NTna9O7E3KlPsHl49GG6zjrLcm7x3MV2LWbyJjlnIgnPBV2o/s320/jeff+327.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">finally, Mendoza, in the Plaza de Independencia. Here we had a reunion of sorts... with Jason (not seen since La Paz 7 weeks previous), and older sister Alicia (2.5 years since last seen, the entire trip)! Alicia has come down to Argentina for a 2-week vacation with her boyfriend Greg and we will be doing some excursions around Mendoza in the following days...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-78643176814549414172012-01-05T06:37:00.002-10:002012-01-05T06:43:10.524-10:00Segment 49: Calama, Chile to Salta, Argentina (December 7- 20, 2011)<div style="text-align: center;">Calama was something of a disaster for us. First, we spent $100 each in three days, just on food and lodging. Chile can be prohibitively expensive, especially in the north, which is a wasteland of mining operations of all sorts. Calama owes its existence to this. Unfortunately, we arrived sick and exhausted, and needed to hole up for a few days. Flat, ugly, poorly-planned, overrun with crackheads and alcoholics, there is not much to recommend it. However, we did find some amazing lunch offers here: </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivPAjKo2rLM3GiPzeXtFuzcJVPb7GFKFTneuSVGsbssP4fIDaddh6H-tYDtku8LfMbsWyH1bCXFDfDtgPEPbKlljjyi_0OHLHno9BSGsA6jOBqCu3ZuMeunJNO_jTYv5S6kavgwRtw_Q/s1600/jeff+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivPAjKo2rLM3GiPzeXtFuzcJVPb7GFKFTneuSVGsbssP4fIDaddh6H-tYDtku8LfMbsWyH1bCXFDfDtgPEPbKlljjyi_0OHLHno9BSGsA6jOBqCu3ZuMeunJNO_jTYv5S6kavgwRtw_Q/s200/jeff+002.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">sopa marinera (seafood stew) in Calama. Loaded with clams, mussels, calamares, etc.. Hands down, best soup we have encountered in the whole voyage. One of the best parts of Chile is its seafood cuisine; the country is so narrow you are never far from the sea. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ZhCaJMjyrUfzALxTr4QaIEtgQOSWUCbG7RfgD0fBeV6HRxtEEv3wZF9V1m7Upw6_Y8GrWL7mRWjutwMlM1Rl2oBk1GjIyXJ0jcEGr7mZ9MuIgEou3kGyJp6zNsnoizT7Ockq2oK5mA/s1600/jeff+003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ZhCaJMjyrUfzALxTr4QaIEtgQOSWUCbG7RfgD0fBeV6HRxtEEv3wZF9V1m7Upw6_Y8GrWL7mRWjutwMlM1Rl2oBk1GjIyXJ0jcEGr7mZ9MuIgEou3kGyJp6zNsnoizT7Ockq2oK5mA/s400/jeff+003.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...desert and uniquely-eroded rock formations entering San Pedro de Atacama...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1TUn5rs0ZycRVM6hIqQ5rcbRdjaMCI62Lm8iu9BgKkEBmWDNe6-R2wdZzDvRfR5Kd1_FbLW9Ds4vyUrJUG1qVWdxLTN-PxcqCjTZzmE-2IM1irIQA8poJtKArwktsVHbSHZnoUjd8Kg/s1600/jeff+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1TUn5rs0ZycRVM6hIqQ5rcbRdjaMCI62Lm8iu9BgKkEBmWDNe6-R2wdZzDvRfR5Kd1_FbLW9Ds4vyUrJUG1qVWdxLTN-PxcqCjTZzmE-2IM1irIQA8poJtKArwktsVHbSHZnoUjd8Kg/s400/jeff+005.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJmY9Ib1pmnXI5OuqKkShwupHAPChES8ofhSf_aSgj9a3DuWFK3XlOte3i4kmWZ2e5FrEcLHIHqUeqPsk8YFwixip0eedk_6l2Uz9viTRcShPIrEAQtqShOyUE8P2cloCCixxY22-zSg/s1600/jeff+008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJmY9Ib1pmnXI5OuqKkShwupHAPChES8ofhSf_aSgj9a3DuWFK3XlOte3i4kmWZ2e5FrEcLHIHqUeqPsk8YFwixip0eedk_6l2Uz9viTRcShPIrEAQtqShOyUE8P2cloCCixxY22-zSg/s400/jeff+008.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">leaving San Pedro de Atacama, the perfect volcanic cone of Licancabur (5900m) to the left at dusk</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKjr9U03gk__nRkNgmcd_Jb6tjLfdekDZSJ0kzXgN3FnEWeRqoH4a1_2LSW7uZJHiHYl2bFwVCn4UfrFk3vPA4AUS_VcyUYJC8seUX9Hh4XF7YLMas30zvMaXJe9xxbGOMtFciamNrCg/s1600/jeff+011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKjr9U03gk__nRkNgmcd_Jb6tjLfdekDZSJ0kzXgN3FnEWeRqoH4a1_2LSW7uZJHiHYl2bFwVCn4UfrFk3vPA4AUS_VcyUYJC8seUX9Hh4XF7YLMas30zvMaXJe9xxbGOMtFciamNrCg/s320/jeff+011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">30km beyond San Pedro, we camped in what was something of a forest, with full moon rising</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG2ZhbdTeUE0Nko6-J_RrCBt5o6DxDVZc7SnPbfeFjYPnJ-jcr4PNuUSbh3VX6QqtFMGpqJNhtz62qUuZmVxrc7R400SahzMpjVbO70aaafLzzIOXwE5OBjrIhFGGb84FUuMCsi5josA/s1600/jeff+013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG2ZhbdTeUE0Nko6-J_RrCBt5o6DxDVZc7SnPbfeFjYPnJ-jcr4PNuUSbh3VX6QqtFMGpqJNhtz62qUuZmVxrc7R400SahzMpjVbO70aaafLzzIOXwE5OBjrIhFGGb84FUuMCsi5josA/s320/jeff+013.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">skirting the enormous Salar de Atacama, truly desolate</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkHoZBstJWj4Eu5WmQ9wvQMmZBxC-oBcXswkdN9IaJgEp48dR8if5P1s4x8LBVPQjEA1DihuhAT_6-bbNK6KrtT9CWWXLnPi6v2M6GCJjy6XPsT4M1vNi0k_bp3Th4I3FnEmIJ-3LFrQ/s1600/jeff+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkHoZBstJWj4Eu5WmQ9wvQMmZBxC-oBcXswkdN9IaJgEp48dR8if5P1s4x8LBVPQjEA1DihuhAT_6-bbNK6KrtT9CWWXLnPi6v2M6GCJjy6XPsT4M1vNi0k_bp3Th4I3FnEmIJ-3LFrQ/s400/jeff+017.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">climbing now, the salar in the background</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgWRAW9rhWDOtOdAcLmnwd9YDtuVAa92dK5aNTYpVP7af0iIlePDMcb_TOh6voqtqlCSo6q1PdeiQ9O13McXgZqFzFgZ5Dj3NL03OvccKp71mQBj9O7Ra9Ag15XslthDAQ-4nfLEq-BQ/s1600/jeff+018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgWRAW9rhWDOtOdAcLmnwd9YDtuVAa92dK5aNTYpVP7af0iIlePDMcb_TOh6voqtqlCSo6q1PdeiQ9O13McXgZqFzFgZ5Dj3NL03OvccKp71mQBj9O7Ra9Ag15XslthDAQ-4nfLEq-BQ/s320/jeff+018.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">roadside colors</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJaptMkEbLnNWK-HHR_DeAybKzz04rKJOCr0z6BJt3bSf_AoiOSCYiYeNobU0_jnF38lRxESQVs7YJU8Xzy7byFHo3VChfLioMxFg7CxthgigAWRV94KJ904nofRNC8OTTZHHGOM21g/s1600/jeff+019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJaptMkEbLnNWK-HHR_DeAybKzz04rKJOCr0z6BJt3bSf_AoiOSCYiYeNobU0_jnF38lRxESQVs7YJU8Xzy7byFHo3VChfLioMxFg7CxthgigAWRV94KJ904nofRNC8OTTZHHGOM21g/s320/jeff+019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">yes!!</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXJBj7Wm5CIGd4YKRO950jx-vUqibcY4a5FMzZp-DsmYA1tphq7ca-wl6SkIcJ2AjfA-GdBO_EAlhuq7sTTlJYWfHiV3367CfHtbGIg_HRIwyFDKbrJeRMZwFSt9IBpnF_TKvROplksg/s1600/jeff+022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXJBj7Wm5CIGd4YKRO950jx-vUqibcY4a5FMzZp-DsmYA1tphq7ca-wl6SkIcJ2AjfA-GdBO_EAlhuq7sTTlJYWfHiV3367CfHtbGIg_HRIwyFDKbrJeRMZwFSt9IBpnF_TKvROplksg/s400/jeff+022.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">more yes!!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMUevNqwWH9PvT_ga5J3vAlTqaS_T9uIARjZZLthZNw8Qc59TYjEPfCf7A5NpDkLUwJ2D7UKJlMHaNSxtwYz6W6fkGRnci55XISdwQzKxoZ1p0Pecvm7HGneiZcz0FuhIsa9ShTVa9HQ/s1600/jeff+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMUevNqwWH9PvT_ga5J3vAlTqaS_T9uIARjZZLthZNw8Qc59TYjEPfCf7A5NpDkLUwJ2D7UKJlMHaNSxtwYz6W6fkGRnci55XISdwQzKxoZ1p0Pecvm7HGneiZcz0FuhIsa9ShTVa9HQ/s320/jeff+023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our camp amidst some windbreaks</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjDF9Jeafb-E1SP2j_RqntCfplz40nfb9JL3vZzbDrRyAlXWxGiFD_83p_Q4e9PlxO152-vlCSDWk2ixCpeyJ8Wtmffs3uxWB6YRi3p3hVHaU2vDDU_PU-dq0tT_X3u9EmPoPuunWYsA/s1600/jeff+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjDF9Jeafb-E1SP2j_RqntCfplz40nfb9JL3vZzbDrRyAlXWxGiFD_83p_Q4e9PlxO152-vlCSDWk2ixCpeyJ8Wtmffs3uxWB6YRi3p3hVHaU2vDDU_PU-dq0tT_X3u9EmPoPuunWYsA/s400/jeff+025.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... San Pedro, Chile to Salta, Argentina via Paso Sico: 600km of primarily dirt roads, and one of the best routes of the whole trip (little-to-no traffic, extraordinary landscapes, fun and challenging riding)...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDdloKx2BVirVF5gU4K5sGhUuHdOVB10XhGfxZMuZIyOnrik3328gjl3TvSrJK1l_s0ns-O_SnC4hz8A113DF82CYhIWe2cS1mUEfO_W7LTpYJpPBrFF1SBt0Acbt3tQNGKogty5sAg/s1600/jeff+026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDdloKx2BVirVF5gU4K5sGhUuHdOVB10XhGfxZMuZIyOnrik3328gjl3TvSrJK1l_s0ns-O_SnC4hz8A113DF82CYhIWe2cS1mUEfO_W7LTpYJpPBrFF1SBt0Acbt3tQNGKogty5sAg/s320/jeff+026.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNP7Ab1R9oycm9wALGLQB2BIljGTaNxVNLhUL4KxOjxVT9BwV4j7bxTBaFE0fQTyAk7h7nDl4JnWbRlG_uhRy7Ze9VrgwPpBZmsCTCVHia2X2q3M7Jo6PN6lwr4DH81TgytMkFEarevw/s1600/jeff+028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNP7Ab1R9oycm9wALGLQB2BIljGTaNxVNLhUL4KxOjxVT9BwV4j7bxTBaFE0fQTyAk7h7nDl4JnWbRlG_uhRy7Ze9VrgwPpBZmsCTCVHia2X2q3M7Jo6PN6lwr4DH81TgytMkFEarevw/s320/jeff+028.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">feeling like we are getting closer to Argentina now, for real</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_NWPElCdVS8psLesVtf9dh-QyYUTnA7CFuFxRR0Iz_zQy4yad9HpK3H5JUMA4c0VH-_c1OwAOfkHtquBtvPRO2yzUa39VAvlHvmh0U3rWlEJrfCO75s1EndQtQUdZBMdMQ_psoT1PA/s1600/jeff+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_NWPElCdVS8psLesVtf9dh-QyYUTnA7CFuFxRR0Iz_zQy4yad9HpK3H5JUMA4c0VH-_c1OwAOfkHtquBtvPRO2yzUa39VAvlHvmh0U3rWlEJrfCO75s1EndQtQUdZBMdMQ_psoT1PA/s320/jeff+029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">that's Tom crawled up in the culvert, only shade we found all day long</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSrNiD7SyTJCOn-2SYXp78LU3GQeGnll_PfEYAFj6LIbvHGU2fLFJ97KPrj8bsxofdUPHmSs9GOQEqME6ttWGJJAP_J6Y111Dgo5rI1pazaulzCB0kdDmwBXznTg5P_uaPfS4HfZw3Ng/s1600/jeff+031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSrNiD7SyTJCOn-2SYXp78LU3GQeGnll_PfEYAFj6LIbvHGU2fLFJ97KPrj8bsxofdUPHmSs9GOQEqME6ttWGJJAP_J6Y111Dgo5rI1pazaulzCB0kdDmwBXznTg5P_uaPfS4HfZw3Ng/s200/jeff+031.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYV-SWtGHOAAD1fpg3aV06BK7qjYw5pcf10NvvcS0-1OaubnyPTcrKjxxoorEynJgaNdEPTQAu2nFIVGRo-eVKEoBsmcbgd9GQgk76EFlsIauy6BpaTDza3frkepoyYW0PoiZ-37ihWA/s1600/jeff+035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYV-SWtGHOAAD1fpg3aV06BK7qjYw5pcf10NvvcS0-1OaubnyPTcrKjxxoorEynJgaNdEPTQAu2nFIVGRo-eVKEoBsmcbgd9GQgk76EFlsIauy6BpaTDza3frkepoyYW0PoiZ-37ihWA/s400/jeff+035.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... scenes like this are why this route is so worth it... warning: no supplies available along the majority of this route, which we would pay for dearly, as we nearly ran out of food while still on the Chilean side...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfH9e7iRWSA5xNHajpnSUC-Z8dVZpFXTQLDVK8cgbzEH9DPgOLn8TBmAB8_LY4PZZ1b-W2lRGiKQ3XMN78W9Tsl7-17qbz8-v-gINw8C2s1UJXaTGWj8fzx9epbpLwxxJjBR_zQod7jA/s1600/jeff+036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfH9e7iRWSA5xNHajpnSUC-Z8dVZpFXTQLDVK8cgbzEH9DPgOLn8TBmAB8_LY4PZZ1b-W2lRGiKQ3XMN78W9Tsl7-17qbz8-v-gINw8C2s1UJXaTGWj8fzx9epbpLwxxJjBR_zQod7jA/s320/jeff+036.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsdoAhYpDlcKJOHLE1j6y7AFdc8kucYW-TCDtXxO8eeFz-p6C7C-Jbr7bGG5doJAWmc-PmPo6Bo2FXQfHT8HfSS2Jc2SeZq_5MAXCPFrjq6o3LIQaEA9DKs4oRfLTJDbtncHqeQtnZjA/s1600/jeff+038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsdoAhYpDlcKJOHLE1j6y7AFdc8kucYW-TCDtXxO8eeFz-p6C7C-Jbr7bGG5doJAWmc-PmPo6Bo2FXQfHT8HfSS2Jc2SeZq_5MAXCPFrjq6o3LIQaEA9DKs4oRfLTJDbtncHqeQtnZjA/s400/jeff+038.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">late afternoon at Laguna Tuyaito</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFTPHjR2mNEMtw89mHCO6hDvq74GysEdLM2cHiPUpOrnDltumMiu9emr0-ItVWTlaUhjmux0MftWdiQHwbhjVa-Eq56TjAflEz2J47DlbCoJjhC10UXSQk1zdphU00DQslD5Yn_pQR8A/s1600/jeff+040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFTPHjR2mNEMtw89mHCO6hDvq74GysEdLM2cHiPUpOrnDltumMiu9emr0-ItVWTlaUhjmux0MftWdiQHwbhjVa-Eq56TjAflEz2J47DlbCoJjhC10UXSQk1zdphU00DQslD5Yn_pQR8A/s320/jeff+040.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we couldn't tell if we were hallucinating or not, but these thin clouds were the first we had seen in weeks and weeks</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7GBeGCY1t30eZT6O5lIkXL6gaPjbftenlU4v2Drr6wmuXsLiFuncQNQi9FLmPjGZh1waCIuU4ySAXPk1Xrj00Khd0jNF00h_FJSs0AVlYH_iO-mf5vDeSFmD2QRFcPmRB-09rH5Z20Q/s1600/jeff+042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7GBeGCY1t30eZT6O5lIkXL6gaPjbftenlU4v2Drr6wmuXsLiFuncQNQi9FLmPjGZh1waCIuU4ySAXPk1Xrj00Khd0jNF00h_FJSs0AVlYH_iO-mf5vDeSFmD2QRFcPmRB-09rH5Z20Q/s320/jeff+042.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our fantastic camp situated just above Laguna Tuyaito</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8tSoJJtirUmPls5DvyIAu5LWZkVuqimnf7xGFH1S9R8P9GUeHTyLFpPoKsq8e52MY_dGVwHaw7Ipaj3XoTVLUoLfcwmKCN948SFcWCMxrD3OJzwccwPa9sImOxAk040bGz039RRy7A/s1600/jeff+047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8tSoJJtirUmPls5DvyIAu5LWZkVuqimnf7xGFH1S9R8P9GUeHTyLFpPoKsq8e52MY_dGVwHaw7Ipaj3XoTVLUoLfcwmKCN948SFcWCMxrD3OJzwccwPa9sImOxAk040bGz039RRy7A/s400/jeff+047.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">vicuñas</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTLoeJqlYLaVaaLcBKqlnEGXRe7QY-eiSJTsiJZIfqGC_BYTMaua11KN9H8Ho3z_gXHuYFbYt8zGn8BUWf9BLwkq7LgL3WE0RWZIUeNJvijHs_WOlPd1NCEs1qY1riXxf7ZrmZLWz5Cg/s1600/jeff+046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTLoeJqlYLaVaaLcBKqlnEGXRe7QY-eiSJTsiJZIfqGC_BYTMaua11KN9H8Ho3z_gXHuYFbYt8zGn8BUWf9BLwkq7LgL3WE0RWZIUeNJvijHs_WOlPd1NCEs1qY1riXxf7ZrmZLWz5Cg/s320/jeff+046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8bmgi9bwAaD5FEvfDFyMTU8texJAE0KEla0lFt_W8xFI44Fnsqn204C6P7CFJw1CqwTTA49u8AQrEy-WOK0DFdyA4asbctQ88IsshNaQ9TnYI6DbUOciTvVCYtBJ5vXlpnsWhfyNsw/s1600/jeff+054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8bmgi9bwAaD5FEvfDFyMTU8texJAE0KEla0lFt_W8xFI44Fnsqn204C6P7CFJw1CqwTTA49u8AQrEy-WOK0DFdyA4asbctQ88IsshNaQ9TnYI6DbUOciTvVCYtBJ5vXlpnsWhfyNsw/s400/jeff+054.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">enjoying every moment of this</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB_We5lRsFBWI1-AxhKucK67A3rpl3MO_ma8vyDX398B2gidDf4KscCStzQjjB8p3sk71pNEBrf_cppkQ6jgL1m3Sqrxvl_nGDID4OA0JX3iWV1zo6-cThq4j7HEivWIN6SwyX5D0jaQ/s1600/jeff+057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB_We5lRsFBWI1-AxhKucK67A3rpl3MO_ma8vyDX398B2gidDf4KscCStzQjjB8p3sk71pNEBrf_cppkQ6jgL1m3Sqrxvl_nGDID4OA0JX3iWV1zo6-cThq4j7HEivWIN6SwyX5D0jaQ/s320/jeff+057.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the mining post of El Laco, 28km from the border. We were mostly out of food at this point, and when the custodian offered us white bread, Wonder-style, which of course isn't food at all, we ate the whole loaf in one sitting. Strong evidence of what disasters can ensue if you start running out of food at 4000m far from anything.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLt33w2arRrpbMpbXwirildQL99lrwj2lDb_Me06vsBIQwikvg0Yb248V5GvDRLG1Uhizjap9Bnkko0x8xPk-8gC2yRcq8b9iCAluO9a0aLHZ9ZQqB3z1O2bbQc6bpTknUyte075j8tw/s1600/jeff+058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLt33w2arRrpbMpbXwirildQL99lrwj2lDb_Me06vsBIQwikvg0Yb248V5GvDRLG1Uhizjap9Bnkko0x8xPk-8gC2yRcq8b9iCAluO9a0aLHZ9ZQqB3z1O2bbQc6bpTknUyte075j8tw/s400/jeff+058.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">passing the Salar El Laco</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCFuAmLTXc4za_kF5LtRKDN6Y92Oe0FO4p2k7maG_xMRK-ETe-j8lB-bRFkIGlPiPKhXph0hy8mz-U9WF86xoyAe5hWOCpol2RrzMFn3OlWjqJEHDsUdQl5lgXp5K8BaAXnq_4lvs1ng/s1600/jeff+062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCFuAmLTXc4za_kF5LtRKDN6Y92Oe0FO4p2k7maG_xMRK-ETe-j8lB-bRFkIGlPiPKhXph0hy8mz-U9WF86xoyAe5hWOCpol2RrzMFn3OlWjqJEHDsUdQl5lgXp5K8BaAXnq_4lvs1ng/s400/jeff+062.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">simply mindblowing riding here</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7gmzkm8He1jmMjRagvVmzjjU_OM5Sak-zUKNCSF88XnD9kbbjmQNBcBh67RpFpxine_CtCYVgXIiP8zkU542bHL0ElAqWJVE1FGOEeXWOW43hFCqzvWijjiQwsjZYLm8e2Zq0zM5s9w/s1600/jeff+064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7gmzkm8He1jmMjRagvVmzjjU_OM5Sak-zUKNCSF88XnD9kbbjmQNBcBh67RpFpxine_CtCYVgXIiP8zkU542bHL0ElAqWJVE1FGOEeXWOW43hFCqzvWijjiQwsjZYLm8e2Zq0zM5s9w/s320/jeff+064.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... the surreal landscapes just before the border of Paso Sico...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwE-N1HHQ37E-hvYPFNt4nqTHoVni8E1MGC5zyV-rnrAAtS69RO06q51VpVU6Q1a_6xybMR0XcTE9GUAACPbmzKB7LhAJMJkJu-L2tTZSOJbYm_qaG1ChywORe-QXFU3_UZanhNJsOxg/s1600/jeff+066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwE-N1HHQ37E-hvYPFNt4nqTHoVni8E1MGC5zyV-rnrAAtS69RO06q51VpVU6Q1a_6xybMR0XcTE9GUAACPbmzKB7LhAJMJkJu-L2tTZSOJbYm_qaG1ChywORe-QXFU3_UZanhNJsOxg/s400/jeff+066.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq4IxwTALiH52dgNDiLr3VHZKDb2m5Yh-rj1v1ldS-guOWJxXwEe5o-nff1-Cd11XPWWSWWVY4bC-Lp-BC15rTyQ2oZuHUuAI2jETrFKwyr9_6NMi0DJW7a7YaM5XxbD6sPfjtVVz3HQ/s1600/jeff+067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq4IxwTALiH52dgNDiLr3VHZKDb2m5Yh-rj1v1ldS-guOWJxXwEe5o-nff1-Cd11XPWWSWWVY4bC-Lp-BC15rTyQ2oZuHUuAI2jETrFKwyr9_6NMi0DJW7a7YaM5XxbD6sPfjtVVz3HQ/s320/jeff+067.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">nearing the border, these are our immediate destinations in Argentina</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-jlNXvXUWB2hd0Dxx6YbWqoSKubUWmEkiX1AJCltmhlYWXIzExD0OGDPGe_M8CMaVC2lXUW2RzLfxVLklCabliJvMtueBeqKoXyVMbzMK8yrf8T1xFjIHde-AALvHj7xQiJNmgLmPtQ/s1600/jeff+068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-jlNXvXUWB2hd0Dxx6YbWqoSKubUWmEkiX1AJCltmhlYWXIzExD0OGDPGe_M8CMaVC2lXUW2RzLfxVLklCabliJvMtueBeqKoXyVMbzMK8yrf8T1xFjIHde-AALvHj7xQiJNmgLmPtQ/s320/jeff+068.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... a classic moment: while attempting a timed photo at the border (this was take two), Jeff slipped while running (cycling clips on gravel!) and went face first into the ground, while Tom died laughing and a huge gust of wind blew the camera off its perch, all at the same time.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0vqUDB0bcfIYbz4kqpmNka1Ip3iHcA7XTNC5Fr-ye1QBjYHT9HGn3h3R8_4YBf64QQVeDr6GIuiu9ssYes4zjKB2iQp-nmXIqRrnwsFIKx7gJ3jidU3EHtBYnh_-bp5rJMwzMvoelOQ/s1600/jeff+070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0vqUDB0bcfIYbz4kqpmNka1Ip3iHcA7XTNC5Fr-ye1QBjYHT9HGn3h3R8_4YBf64QQVeDr6GIuiu9ssYes4zjKB2iQp-nmXIqRrnwsFIKx7gJ3jidU3EHtBYnh_-bp5rJMwzMvoelOQ/s320/jeff+070.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">take three was the charm. We are more than elated to cross the border... Argentina has loomed as our destiny for so long its hardly believable at this point. The million-and-one times we've been asked "Para donde van?" (Where are you going?) and have answered "Argentina", and now we are finally here.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSyQvoQby7yUSclDayUPE4cJvC3cxn7w3OIkpt2Zu-B-tYfm5jFdfV8fozmwUuX1Ac72KAw9AHqwZT7jzoVC6PoLGb1telqBs5aDRnoEcn1UBV_2xdhogjcAz6aTT_zkLr2uYi1KlbCA/s1600/jeff+073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSyQvoQby7yUSclDayUPE4cJvC3cxn7w3OIkpt2Zu-B-tYfm5jFdfV8fozmwUuX1Ac72KAw9AHqwZT7jzoVC6PoLGb1telqBs5aDRnoEcn1UBV_2xdhogjcAz6aTT_zkLr2uYi1KlbCA/s400/jeff+073.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the first cumulus clouds we have seen in AGES</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcWOZOliU3Ct44uB0z1sXBuxch5AgVuhrPTY7dJ77PKZnpm6y0rfOw6FszFGOFhfO1irtUSXPhyDt0xbfwEpTnWIVHbnizjc3XifwmVviyKrDR5FzUn7HbCiH84QZcTiFeIuLJta_LZQ/s1600/jeff+075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcWOZOliU3Ct44uB0z1sXBuxch5AgVuhrPTY7dJ77PKZnpm6y0rfOw6FszFGOFhfO1irtUSXPhyDt0xbfwEpTnWIVHbnizjc3XifwmVviyKrDR5FzUn7HbCiH84QZcTiFeIuLJta_LZQ/s320/jeff+075.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we were fortunate to witness one of the best sunsets of the whole trip our first evening in Argentina:</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkkHJ9LBPSBiK2fw6I8PBVHQB95itZme0myAVxxhZZPGCjB4dNkWGUNquXtzTJjebo0i-lZq3niDvaJcGn2gqGuVbvTwcvWMroNs_4bpnxBsw3p-acGAfSH511hlJg9aySWwjnPGw2Gg/s1600/jeff+077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkkHJ9LBPSBiK2fw6I8PBVHQB95itZme0myAVxxhZZPGCjB4dNkWGUNquXtzTJjebo0i-lZq3niDvaJcGn2gqGuVbvTwcvWMroNs_4bpnxBsw3p-acGAfSH511hlJg9aySWwjnPGw2Gg/s400/jeff+077.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9HMhkVVb5d5bVktnIo6GHSxMDPy-p-2gNSzODj26NsNozv95tM5dk_pQWTPpdoqPcH-I0u3l8oP4YkE7TJ61ME9c7RSrKe74LqT_sK2ZJEsNeiXBQ-XNP89kTxSsAAXahr7NvUhCkQg/s1600/jeff+079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9HMhkVVb5d5bVktnIo6GHSxMDPy-p-2gNSzODj26NsNozv95tM5dk_pQWTPpdoqPcH-I0u3l8oP4YkE7TJ61ME9c7RSrKe74LqT_sK2ZJEsNeiXBQ-XNP89kTxSsAAXahr7NvUhCkQg/s400/jeff+079.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdJhnqlKrwCTFR5Z9lpfvW7P2c9t62skPn6sYr7CHc7TdYuxf2rWmEFQVgfCKpqm8xAli4n_qGgEktXH0EAp8ZO_43537i9uG5lgpd_H3cDnKQe0SQ_ns-Sdg5FkyqIoA1QzPgmT_Yfw/s1600/jeff+081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdJhnqlKrwCTFR5Z9lpfvW7P2c9t62skPn6sYr7CHc7TdYuxf2rWmEFQVgfCKpqm8xAli4n_qGgEktXH0EAp8ZO_43537i9uG5lgpd_H3cDnKQe0SQ_ns-Sdg5FkyqIoA1QzPgmT_Yfw/s320/jeff+081.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLhEq9TnC7JNMt9_6AAKGyxZ1-rgfx0IQg_R-KBFPu7n7jTC52BJevVSIpofYs0It6gfx10Aug92LfUEQhstFrZ7U2C9QFGTCX7TQ_MDiTIXpO0ITt-nDm4ABmznIC5sa9Kc-pDqTO8A/s1600/jeff+084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLhEq9TnC7JNMt9_6AAKGyxZ1-rgfx0IQg_R-KBFPu7n7jTC52BJevVSIpofYs0It6gfx10Aug92LfUEQhstFrZ7U2C9QFGTCX7TQ_MDiTIXpO0ITt-nDm4ABmznIC5sa9Kc-pDqTO8A/s400/jeff+084.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYX97uvxyfGEEJEhRUrWh2S46zz3dcyk1SOMZV5AgFNqcKsfe6EHkZRwVf_AXJrmMUnz3VARDkoCwTfMdyAP8kiBiaFP6QxGV5G_heeI48P4yC7LyeDrB71dV0ktrmN_QXbREM9r9h5A/s1600/jeff+086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYX97uvxyfGEEJEhRUrWh2S46zz3dcyk1SOMZV5AgFNqcKsfe6EHkZRwVf_AXJrmMUnz3VARDkoCwTfMdyAP8kiBiaFP6QxGV5G_heeI48P4yC7LyeDrB71dV0ktrmN_QXbREM9r9h5A/s320/jeff+086.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">as we weren't gonna reach Catua (the first town on the Argentina side) before night, we found this abandoned cabin in the middle of nowhere amidst high winds. The winds shifted completely three times, so that we ended up camping on three distinct sides of the cabin throughout the night.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBr2jVJGH4RlvJlJjikkdkBlZbpM79wLXtwEXpX7ALjEJQ6sDEQzxVX7uvoK_wME0d_Vy_7oI3L6i67bBEDYdN13OxV4PUPQWqp4cJR4lrvVY3RYeyw45aNj75EHBx9KcWJgjAVlezAQ/s1600/jeff+087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBr2jVJGH4RlvJlJjikkdkBlZbpM79wLXtwEXpX7ALjEJQ6sDEQzxVX7uvoK_wME0d_Vy_7oI3L6i67bBEDYdN13OxV4PUPQWqp4cJR4lrvVY3RYeyw45aNj75EHBx9KcWJgjAVlezAQ/s320/jeff+087.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">at dawn</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixv9ZPsYM8m6nT27Qllfe9JnRFMB9uKr0ibscBP5SOmfep7ZTLr2njGJ-Rijd0lZssGZLTdfLBFAU13FI_w6uxLbhr9yp_TW2YOrxi4b7BoItONg_hWyh8ZgQPXXt70leukKfF6A8O5A/s1600/jeff+089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixv9ZPsYM8m6nT27Qllfe9JnRFMB9uKr0ibscBP5SOmfep7ZTLr2njGJ-Rijd0lZssGZLTdfLBFAU13FI_w6uxLbhr9yp_TW2YOrxi4b7BoItONg_hWyh8ZgQPXXt70leukKfF6A8O5A/s320/jeff+089.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... here in Catua, a mining village approx. 25km from the border, we encountered a municipal party to celebrate the elections of new local officials. They invited us to lunch with them... where we found ourselves seated with the border police who had stamped our arrival the previous day, and all the important people in Catua... unfortunately, we had no money (and therefore couldn't buy any food and continue!), and the only person who could change money for us in Catua just happened to be the most important guy in town, who was tied up with MC duties all day at the party. We were delayed 5 hours in Catua just to change money!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKEoOHZgp8u_QqUY8EnjQMMqUqXFHOh-Ro8Nf0YiFbAwTPAkavwZqtQ0Sg9BWek-MeWsjZPgBmWXap5oMEre7eqChCM2gdXVXi1He5FnmPihfkf6fXccVLnodj77J_S87qXJU0PDsgIg/s1600/jeff+092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKEoOHZgp8u_QqUY8EnjQMMqUqXFHOh-Ro8Nf0YiFbAwTPAkavwZqtQ0Sg9BWek-MeWsjZPgBmWXap5oMEre7eqChCM2gdXVXi1He5FnmPihfkf6fXccVLnodj77J_S87qXJU0PDsgIg/s320/jeff+092.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this lunch featured a wheat-based soup, and a heaping portion of beef, chicken, sausage and potato. Very Argentinian.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFgNGSNOMJrbzy10fYu1YBxmgcRelnGn0uig65NmB0VcRgNfmmYpOjyw32hBNF9jlbBOFZPyf0PTceiTa1CHVWXLnRBRotisq3SHuOGgYmnwBor2VJhxT2TkeLhpml2ZMEEdxJAiBXmg/s1600/jeff+094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFgNGSNOMJrbzy10fYu1YBxmgcRelnGn0uig65NmB0VcRgNfmmYpOjyw32hBNF9jlbBOFZPyf0PTceiTa1CHVWXLnRBRotisq3SHuOGgYmnwBor2VJhxT2TkeLhpml2ZMEEdxJAiBXmg/s320/jeff+094.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...the colorful folks of Catua...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHaeMBDU_0zutydDPSUBj23e1nAU0XcXv_evj_A-IrlZevic31ZYQ5L8xrLBocNzxs3ID01ajRraxn9as2w0PmaHgPAsBlsaCSknD3i09hXtEANJGM2MIunL53HziGjTuIbQc4NyKRFw/s1600/jeff+095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHaeMBDU_0zutydDPSUBj23e1nAU0XcXv_evj_A-IrlZevic31ZYQ5L8xrLBocNzxs3ID01ajRraxn9as2w0PmaHgPAsBlsaCSknD3i09hXtEANJGM2MIunL53HziGjTuIbQc4NyKRFw/s320/jeff+095.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD766N9B2eQkkJHocUgyQAuCAUCT00ratYOeLcrK3Pb4Vr7ztV2vj1wXsxlR2BpxSSztX4vZfC1_Su8yVITYmZ0DCPOv9PUmvucH9n9vFEaFBtoMIycAqRvWos741VQzNf5e9KxCd8Zw/s1600/jeff+097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD766N9B2eQkkJHocUgyQAuCAUCT00ratYOeLcrK3Pb4Vr7ztV2vj1wXsxlR2BpxSSztX4vZfC1_Su8yVITYmZ0DCPOv9PUmvucH9n9vFEaFBtoMIycAqRvWos741VQzNf5e9KxCd8Zw/s320/jeff+097.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...llamas are found in Argentina (in the north), but these are the last we would see...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ozXHfCNXg4xXkGjk2ClGmhlxHk5WxaT4W7-mlzn_FvNNnTgfBXMYTlu3aHHo2ZsOvVRCBLJg5wroJODNKK_x5LSYAC29jwXPnYiqgdsbH84ORTIkg-JiUQVGNIzEV5wy2pwmhe9GEw/s1600/jeff+096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ozXHfCNXg4xXkGjk2ClGmhlxHk5WxaT4W7-mlzn_FvNNnTgfBXMYTlu3aHHo2ZsOvVRCBLJg5wroJODNKK_x5LSYAC29jwXPnYiqgdsbH84ORTIkg-JiUQVGNIzEV5wy2pwmhe9GEw/s320/jeff+096.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">after several months in llama-land, its clear that llamas are mystified and made curious by the bicycles. They almost always stop what they are doing and stare at us with soft eyes, as if wanting to ask about our trip. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDlxp9oNqzf3PP8yb7k8dVPLNn-ywp4vWG8JrluasfROW2U7wxVoRGXUsy9WfgwxpXQhWbS3VwFHVuFdRF2r8EE_Cw_O3OlkKC621SDCoaxEIx4M8d2_yO3qHzu8gO8SoQ3n_KnudjSw/s1600/jeff+098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDlxp9oNqzf3PP8yb7k8dVPLNn-ywp4vWG8JrluasfROW2U7wxVoRGXUsy9WfgwxpXQhWbS3VwFHVuFdRF2r8EE_Cw_O3OlkKC621SDCoaxEIx4M8d2_yO3qHzu8gO8SoQ3n_KnudjSw/s200/jeff+098.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">after an exhausting climb out of Catua</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-QmjoxjFz8dphqeUs7d2HUjjAhfhcIbVyW5XFfmXx2J0hSFgzcoFC6SMmYqYZ8eMZ4XzpGkVBNBGXV00LW96iV6Ar1LoEGp9lHzsp1zOE3nOmwa-ibMQDZIImgoNvLM7XrHWaMwyzWg/s1600/jeff+100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-QmjoxjFz8dphqeUs7d2HUjjAhfhcIbVyW5XFfmXx2J0hSFgzcoFC6SMmYqYZ8eMZ4XzpGkVBNBGXV00LW96iV6Ar1LoEGp9lHzsp1zOE3nOmwa-ibMQDZIImgoNvLM7XrHWaMwyzWg/s320/jeff+100.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this was a wild descent: fast, steep, gravelly and long, with sudden sandy patches thrown in there just for kicks and to test our reflexes</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKDLoKJ0pwtQWf1rgmr1jqaBkIaM9ifVUeojQGnv7ayw5e76GezgBIcUNSEHJYRDPt7QnCc2iPCZyLAitJhgXUMiBuQ7cLB-gUepB_ASACb_QUjxt1pUZeu_xUA1FI0Fc7BxWtRooY6g/s1600/jeff+101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKDLoKJ0pwtQWf1rgmr1jqaBkIaM9ifVUeojQGnv7ayw5e76GezgBIcUNSEHJYRDPt7QnCc2iPCZyLAitJhgXUMiBuQ7cLB-gUepB_ASACb_QUjxt1pUZeu_xUA1FI0Fc7BxWtRooY6g/s400/jeff+101.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">approaching the Salar de Caucharí with incredible late-afternoon light</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWtoFZy-aO_urxEASHe-OPriFgN0qdC9aS1tFsPLp8IYcnNmcYwc_cPwTh6y0ZKGfWyM5YMTe3G-zKpOyonx22_iIfHegir1UBsICyCtHTu5I5FOh9xxD1Sbc92cuW3pvmSWD4_wUHxQ/s1600/jeff+105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWtoFZy-aO_urxEASHe-OPriFgN0qdC9aS1tFsPLp8IYcnNmcYwc_cPwTh6y0ZKGfWyM5YMTe3G-zKpOyonx22_iIfHegir1UBsICyCtHTu5I5FOh9xxD1Sbc92cuW3pvmSWD4_wUHxQ/s400/jeff+105.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">entering the salar</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQaHcFEB07EwB51gZhzFFyYeN0EnZnsgra-W3-p0VSWjJJi37yoH0FJ4PTJ59P5AwQrKlT1OxQ7IIcD-T7U8tQ1moZ5fSaaFld5219W-luapn-Mmvme3JtL5o6AwNK0eNRKBlw8KJicA/s1600/jeff+106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQaHcFEB07EwB51gZhzFFyYeN0EnZnsgra-W3-p0VSWjJJi37yoH0FJ4PTJ59P5AwQrKlT1OxQ7IIcD-T7U8tQ1moZ5fSaaFld5219W-luapn-Mmvme3JtL5o6AwNK0eNRKBlw8KJicA/s400/jeff+106.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">dusk colors over the salar</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmteu02BjEGduHelW78Hh819AyDdufjMdHe4okpEpv36CrL-jNxONYsGCCDpgCleroXeZa1ghKipZJwHM5FJnPO-MR9QLeWgpRt9_Ti-gZJsVWV8crOZoe2X0gRE89VDml7F6hS9pG8w/s1600/jeff+108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmteu02BjEGduHelW78Hh819AyDdufjMdHe4okpEpv36CrL-jNxONYsGCCDpgCleroXeZa1ghKipZJwHM5FJnPO-MR9QLeWgpRt9_Ti-gZJsVWV8crOZoe2X0gRE89VDml7F6hS9pG8w/s400/jeff+108.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">unforgettable sunset beyond the Salar de Caucharí</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMrGOcDrDAvTu_RbpmlvZlnI3_mcAn-OTsCXoAu1p1gl4nFjaXTsYBA9lz5PYohvK3gLWKyNsLf-OVvHCOfjPzJcSkIBe8yd3euXU_HS1ud5Jdf09deFNP0XzvTSl6wIYxkM2nchzj4g/s1600/jeff+111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMrGOcDrDAvTu_RbpmlvZlnI3_mcAn-OTsCXoAu1p1gl4nFjaXTsYBA9lz5PYohvK3gLWKyNsLf-OVvHCOfjPzJcSkIBe8yd3euXU_HS1ud5Jdf09deFNP0XzvTSl6wIYxkM2nchzj4g/s320/jeff+111.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in the last moments of twilight, we were saved in the nick of time when this abandoned house presented itself in Caucharí.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJRvkoPo6Z4OA1Nnsw-x6i9LfqDLfcqmqqp_WSfcNx87760P6-XqCqgoZ937ZUDr4Co7Ztb3L6d-z3w1JOUmkD6AU1dumptHiD3TBdfyFgPqraQkI0UOVU0ut-RYZUZTalFIirwoKW9Q/s1600/jeff+113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJRvkoPo6Z4OA1Nnsw-x6i9LfqDLfcqmqqp_WSfcNx87760P6-XqCqgoZ937ZUDr4Co7Ztb3L6d-z3w1JOUmkD6AU1dumptHiD3TBdfyFgPqraQkI0UOVU0ut-RYZUZTalFIirwoKW9Q/s200/jeff+113.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this newspaper feature was glued to the wall of the room... it is from 1945! and is about Argentinian football champions from the 1930's</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIyIdUQe0w3Xk64lm1qaMLbUqj_WnJsaC8_i-nOLXs7lqJSVUCXL6zJTYiBTd5VBfElZa0PxhKLQbo9euE3W2m2BEuQHslJUQlz8kpkXu8YaNca4bk07mmMcEfW2o8kpfwGp5DMMOitQ/s1600/jeff+114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIyIdUQe0w3Xk64lm1qaMLbUqj_WnJsaC8_i-nOLXs7lqJSVUCXL6zJTYiBTd5VBfElZa0PxhKLQbo9euE3W2m2BEuQHslJUQlz8kpkXu8YaNca4bk07mmMcEfW2o8kpfwGp5DMMOitQ/s320/jeff+114.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the abandoned house</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFyEMvKQVJR0i62jOE4xov67hY5NzlVjMVQUDIZHv88PeNyzHlBifwXsOWvVemOgt3nL7L7UsuSmZpsLNhihqGzJPBz0ozauujQMmYRd3I7h2kgOS5uAnFGUVqfjBkW6esvSSFMrxqAQ/s1600/jeff+117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFyEMvKQVJR0i62jOE4xov67hY5NzlVjMVQUDIZHv88PeNyzHlBifwXsOWvVemOgt3nL7L7UsuSmZpsLNhihqGzJPBz0ozauujQMmYRd3I7h2kgOS5uAnFGUVqfjBkW6esvSSFMrxqAQ/s320/jeff+117.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">near Olacapato, fresh snow in the cordillera</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI1OOA_0YAnd-Q-rfDXW7oXerxTf5zkvjp7JIZcwubm512E1An-Ztr6_sC8PVlRVN5KjGZK9GgSI7HJ8Q-1xT4L90cuT8uuILShrBnyi55VR_GZSBi5UnyW_JC3xFJ_1aonoYMaaxJFA/s1600/jeff+115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI1OOA_0YAnd-Q-rfDXW7oXerxTf5zkvjp7JIZcwubm512E1An-Ztr6_sC8PVlRVN5KjGZK9GgSI7HJ8Q-1xT4L90cuT8uuILShrBnyi55VR_GZSBi5UnyW_JC3xFJ_1aonoYMaaxJFA/s400/jeff+115.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the mining town of Olacapato, flat and sprawling and somewhat destitute as all these mining towns seem to be</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih2XxhGikAhRXiPM-YQZEWKki5DBe2vUvD-wzcGdJMCtuS6MUcroan2oTU7Mi4RIWoUVwmw76SRgxSEEFB55WAgBhvoU4U3ZDlsLxtKn4pVHUIFLYjuBIAPVvAaGGLwLOrBfmYnyhnMw/s1600/jeff+118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih2XxhGikAhRXiPM-YQZEWKki5DBe2vUvD-wzcGdJMCtuS6MUcroan2oTU7Mi4RIWoUVwmw76SRgxSEEFB55WAgBhvoU4U3ZDlsLxtKn4pVHUIFLYjuBIAPVvAaGGLwLOrBfmYnyhnMw/s200/jeff+118.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we found this guy hanging out in Olacapato</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijvcjfmFwxaYsjGQQgZkRfFTDsT1hOe_hb7h5CgtfNoGswze3RU5c5dOP-Vr6N6S211lB1Ama5kL310Nd2BW2sm1cxbzvIeUOmj1Pf89KL-n_H9BLVvbb3jL7aOL_XhpOI1FvYCzNHWA/s1600/jeff+120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijvcjfmFwxaYsjGQQgZkRfFTDsT1hOe_hb7h5CgtfNoGswze3RU5c5dOP-Vr6N6S211lB1Ama5kL310Nd2BW2sm1cxbzvIeUOmj1Pf89KL-n_H9BLVvbb3jL7aOL_XhpOI1FvYCzNHWA/s320/jeff+120.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this mule didn't fare so well</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGxPTa7CKhTT-mKW_jdIghm859IIoI1PGgcxENoonlDjFBwrjl2OGYBY51MVWeQCLF_4wphBwv_RH-p-Cc6k_Bwr9qEIL7L1nZpy8J26q_UK2iIimXR4C2tX3SthX7qT0zLJ9ve73dmw/s1600/jeff+122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGxPTa7CKhTT-mKW_jdIghm859IIoI1PGgcxENoonlDjFBwrjl2OGYBY51MVWeQCLF_4wphBwv_RH-p-Cc6k_Bwr9qEIL7L1nZpy8J26q_UK2iIimXR4C2tX3SthX7qT0zLJ9ve73dmw/s320/jeff+122.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">some Andean geese, they let us get pretty close</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhere-Vz6DQN23rnS1tvwC_ATzuyO-XAiJvxKD0Fb78LjdetAV7LqHLwZUgxB44W-wZmKcvc-lUJF0yYXxY0685qNgyAsBmJfKLlyl9dDxeXH9Vrn5pJGRG1HYjOZrGzGzzbkUtdmbo_Q/s1600/jeff+124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhere-Vz6DQN23rnS1tvwC_ATzuyO-XAiJvxKD0Fb78LjdetAV7LqHLwZUgxB44W-wZmKcvc-lUJF0yYXxY0685qNgyAsBmJfKLlyl9dDxeXH9Vrn5pJGRG1HYjOZrGzGzzbkUtdmbo_Q/s320/jeff+124.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">climbing again</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKBqRvNh2QHFtGvSJBv8mZe4gsOSC6e3eXWrFC7blJ37I_wOVHQcQQXh-9CdoDpXV08TSsqhb8UxoX6QD4qjwbVYJcOuTPwqNcPrqnMGvJx1CG1y9l2T7qZSAtQXL7DCDrDDCi7r08g/s1600/jeff+125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKBqRvNh2QHFtGvSJBv8mZe4gsOSC6e3eXWrFC7blJ37I_wOVHQcQQXh-9CdoDpXV08TSsqhb8UxoX6QD4qjwbVYJcOuTPwqNcPrqnMGvJx1CG1y9l2T7qZSAtQXL7DCDrDDCi7r08g/s400/jeff+125.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">near the end of this climb, can't complain about the setting</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeYI1oUlFcezYd_ViXJvGlEhdWNGP45AXRc04NACe4jlaTybPd9Lzqeem5jSt17_kazN4TbbiZ_QEAe8AlPQ7zLgv3xn7UZ-bH9KwoAAdJxhoL-VQ28ytzsrtvqOCovziSf20LqxgQFA/s1600/jeff+126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeYI1oUlFcezYd_ViXJvGlEhdWNGP45AXRc04NACe4jlaTybPd9Lzqeem5jSt17_kazN4TbbiZ_QEAe8AlPQ7zLgv3xn7UZ-bH9KwoAAdJxhoL-VQ28ytzsrtvqOCovziSf20LqxgQFA/s320/jeff+126.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is the highest we will be the rest of the trip. 4560m, or over 14,500ft. we have to admit, we are ready to come down after so much continuous time above 3000 meters (pretty much since Cusco, 6 weeks previous)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFoEV9CaOyDBCRx08-z4DhyphenhyphenqJZqnWLwAHrm7W_QuurJDuLyJmSfp6X6KrwzFQRxYqImyH3luZuvbRsb_xzVVW4bOfxHOObVaQdkCXyMBA8p6SKd-KF17IVbK5nsFnTXrKUVt5hAbBvDA/s1600/jeff+127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFoEV9CaOyDBCRx08-z4DhyphenhyphenqJZqnWLwAHrm7W_QuurJDuLyJmSfp6X6KrwzFQRxYqImyH3luZuvbRsb_xzVVW4bOfxHOObVaQdkCXyMBA8p6SKd-KF17IVbK5nsFnTXrKUVt5hAbBvDA/s400/jeff+127.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...super-fun dirt descent here through great landscapes...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJNrXbo8hCcslLgBuSb0414WNyR6DMgYf-PzlThbPSatgh3ImpM8gaY5rbWzGPv1U197JadSZLgZg5qXD-PmzYmtVvNe9oG68UTYrIoyT0ftXIbRDu6Zvuhcxp1qoI8MNDEnek1WSFA/s1600/jeff+129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJNrXbo8hCcslLgBuSb0414WNyR6DMgYf-PzlThbPSatgh3ImpM8gaY5rbWzGPv1U197JadSZLgZg5qXD-PmzYmtVvNe9oG68UTYrIoyT0ftXIbRDu6Zvuhcxp1qoI8MNDEnek1WSFA/s400/jeff+129.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV3HwKJrMEcFYgYLbqpieY1nwzbocpBikMYML0jGFutQLUBOnFSbiW8bFe3ZeW5R99qHhDcKfi2vUVwiscl1H0lSdRsq7sXYIpZZrRZ8j8DHDRL-94z0iiTETAlGNvHyiRCyEykVPTdQ/s1600/jeff+130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV3HwKJrMEcFYgYLbqpieY1nwzbocpBikMYML0jGFutQLUBOnFSbiW8bFe3ZeW5R99qHhDcKfi2vUVwiscl1H0lSdRsq7sXYIpZZrRZ8j8DHDRL-94z0iiTETAlGNvHyiRCyEykVPTdQ/s400/jeff+130.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfMDYHlm8iqjEWtzfmSXEZH2TyDck6jY94LByqj7NZfPulZdh8LQSMyhmpE5l1RxYB8_QGiYtVjkjz6Tfcv0wbrmwlXnyW6Tw_qkBiE7PzsH-SyBEj5mDDzKU59w3BJpNQ8pH8H4yMA/s1600/jeff+133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUfMDYHlm8iqjEWtzfmSXEZH2TyDck6jY94LByqj7NZfPulZdh8LQSMyhmpE5l1RxYB8_QGiYtVjkjz6Tfcv0wbrmwlXnyW6Tw_qkBiE7PzsH-SyBEj5mDDzKU59w3BJpNQ8pH8H4yMA/s320/jeff+133.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">arrived in San Antonio de Los Cobres, first real town since San Pedro de Atacama</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLnII2Y7XokcDE_1x3uMSORoiTCvzYD3KVX7OjuWQJPQHoUDngi8RdX38wcaaHxCVl6vRiD2o4hEGTLlX8Ivq8kjdMewJhD4SIrY3rYEoaldhiyYskLQitvlOPkDccB-HN-RJG2HZyw/s1600/jeff+135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQLnII2Y7XokcDE_1x3uMSORoiTCvzYD3KVX7OjuWQJPQHoUDngi8RdX38wcaaHxCVl6vRiD2o4hEGTLlX8Ivq8kjdMewJhD4SIrY3rYEoaldhiyYskLQitvlOPkDccB-HN-RJG2HZyw/s320/jeff+135.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we had a great welcome at the municipal building in San Antonio... they offered us a place to stay in the newly-built artesanal market, and invited us for tea and coffee a couple times</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirJtRz2EIW9Tq5DUpoUiFi0UidZB-TVOAmgY4hAAEyKhzmbs6YgH2NvS4K-k5IVW4L2j4LWsHd4570ClARqRfyZpCvO9bRas3bBWozSeDsMTT6X4zGEYgDuvx3T7dfF5RUuTwbzMTNAw/s1600/jeff+132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirJtRz2EIW9Tq5DUpoUiFi0UidZB-TVOAmgY4hAAEyKhzmbs6YgH2NvS4K-k5IVW4L2j4LWsHd4570ClARqRfyZpCvO9bRas3bBWozSeDsMTT6X4zGEYgDuvx3T7dfF5RUuTwbzMTNAw/s320/jeff+132.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Bolivian influence reaching into Argentina</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWL6yFEe_PkNJ_FWq5cXY6GfgLmv8vq41bmRh7LanIOom2ezadNtKVfuyFoZn6N0RaPBX1VRkME3Cf_YgnxtdtvGDPZCimUoAeXnhhQcOaPC9PpBgYqQP8joTCjPgzLswtYyieqDvFog/s1600/jeff+131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWL6yFEe_PkNJ_FWq5cXY6GfgLmv8vq41bmRh7LanIOom2ezadNtKVfuyFoZn6N0RaPBX1VRkME3Cf_YgnxtdtvGDPZCimUoAeXnhhQcOaPC9PpBgYqQP8joTCjPgzLswtYyieqDvFog/s200/jeff+131.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is no more and no less than an alfajor, which is an Argentine specialty (even though we first encountered them in Bolivia). A biscuit-sized layered cake with alternating layers of cookie/cake and caramel, often chocolate-flavored or chocolate-dipped. In just a short time in Argentina we are already alfajor connoisseurs and absolute addicts.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyUIAkp2r1gwWJo2qCx7CYxpT3SiFE3FzER7fGQ2Tpn3eWVAlQCLURMDOxD6srbQ_-oNh-oAt0usClbWRFjHqbM00QGuA0Zkuf2_x16xhFy7lYqeLZFt-fNbOsvGso5f_6pYKgSRS5eQ/s1600/jeff+137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyUIAkp2r1gwWJo2qCx7CYxpT3SiFE3FzER7fGQ2Tpn3eWVAlQCLURMDOxD6srbQ_-oNh-oAt0usClbWRFjHqbM00QGuA0Zkuf2_x16xhFy7lYqeLZFt-fNbOsvGso5f_6pYKgSRS5eQ/s400/jeff+137.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">looks splendid, but we had really stiff headwinds on this climb</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpdPqlj70Pz6WuasRZvjqdxfHCFhZaEDh1aSRTDNfG-gSieCvCfFF3I0Z8n4ZQRxkABRwT0UJ4M0iMTK9jEKD-TE26BfeD8hDv6rrHqknYl2l8cL6431XXye_3XbKGA7c-6kfFg1HbQ/s1600/jeff+138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpdPqlj70Pz6WuasRZvjqdxfHCFhZaEDh1aSRTDNfG-gSieCvCfFF3I0Z8n4ZQRxkABRwT0UJ4M0iMTK9jEKD-TE26BfeD8hDv6rrHqknYl2l8cL6431XXye_3XbKGA7c-6kfFg1HbQ/s320/jeff+138.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our last pass on this rugged crossing of the cordillera</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5-ddXW02yCFd6YDEWpNPuCY6TI4wPRMAbB9D9pli11l_PohKx2FG0wH_xVH7DhfkXhBcNehuOkWpXZzyvUUhp7R9fkr1Meuw6lJcLgLOctgrQbgsRlrLyp7HtPHsyIZoBZT6ooTQV1w/s1600/jeff+139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5-ddXW02yCFd6YDEWpNPuCY6TI4wPRMAbB9D9pli11l_PohKx2FG0wH_xVH7DhfkXhBcNehuOkWpXZzyvUUhp7R9fkr1Meuw6lJcLgLOctgrQbgsRlrLyp7HtPHsyIZoBZT6ooTQV1w/s400/jeff+139.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...descending from the pass with great scenery...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5SY07WjBYsCRc_xd06AdsHsMgdzuMmgTwH_Fu1KJauYZBMLAooobfyCdVcUNbfLB89dbAmboc6bLJT_fnRY1_7PJxTdepXve1MUs_RUTJturSsGzfDBz_A6gSfFsR5dnaBZRfL07_2Q/s1600/jeff+141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5SY07WjBYsCRc_xd06AdsHsMgdzuMmgTwH_Fu1KJauYZBMLAooobfyCdVcUNbfLB89dbAmboc6bLJT_fnRY1_7PJxTdepXve1MUs_RUTJturSsGzfDBz_A6gSfFsR5dnaBZRfL07_2Q/s320/jeff+141.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx9mfjTjV1jIxnRIcipyYQ-Njj2mtNQKt0scU2wOL_qDztjHetF16O8-VDh1XvnM48QAAicEIG3ZjgBsyBSmv7GGHEGPpfgxnI5Es_u5jhyphenhyphenVEAkgAnVSNtWRy4VRFKu0yTeh0XFDjo3w/s1600/jeff+147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx9mfjTjV1jIxnRIcipyYQ-Njj2mtNQKt0scU2wOL_qDztjHetF16O8-VDh1XvnM48QAAicEIG3ZjgBsyBSmv7GGHEGPpfgxnI5Es_u5jhyphenhyphenVEAkgAnVSNtWRy4VRFKu0yTeh0XFDjo3w/s320/jeff+147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEf5OujuZnXe3LqKD7LWEIcNUQlM5S4O3sBhsmqxgc_cBcLGBJ-g0CgNujB1QYY-gK4zcm_X1tb0h4-luSfwmPBoRnF7RWZrGBj36K5uHUhV9mK2a42uztV7WylqWrgLB4Gpe7dqMljg/s1600/jeff+149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEf5OujuZnXe3LqKD7LWEIcNUQlM5S4O3sBhsmqxgc_cBcLGBJ-g0CgNujB1QYY-gK4zcm_X1tb0h4-luSfwmPBoRnF7RWZrGBj36K5uHUhV9mK2a42uztV7WylqWrgLB4Gpe7dqMljg/s320/jeff+149.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...dry canyons with cactus everywhere...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPDWJvj6coLIn8JlZbsfvUe5ynVvdwZj6-rIreaPVguqEb3BCIC38LOFe7Qy1xsR70xSFJu-PMHNWOBkVnrrc8d3WSzxRvAPdIGGRuHG3UEqVL2GfYHhPge5TAcK_eAEqdMwkKq6liQ/s1600/jeff+153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPDWJvj6coLIn8JlZbsfvUe5ynVvdwZj6-rIreaPVguqEb3BCIC38LOFe7Qy1xsR70xSFJu-PMHNWOBkVnrrc8d3WSzxRvAPdIGGRuHG3UEqVL2GfYHhPge5TAcK_eAEqdMwkKq6liQ/s320/jeff+153.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF72p5ps9ee4LYJvmoiI9ec3NcN2cs4Xy-VVHyBGOgOyNQjXjjjxFFYIKxI10zIM-56JXWvU8_mt3nJGFjs5d3H9wDn8D6XZZKV4PFe7GX2twkoYeM81E7Dzm78bdtelYNrtUwKp4BrA/s1600/jeff+154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF72p5ps9ee4LYJvmoiI9ec3NcN2cs4Xy-VVHyBGOgOyNQjXjjjxFFYIKxI10zIM-56JXWvU8_mt3nJGFjs5d3H9wDn8D6XZZKV4PFe7GX2twkoYeM81E7Dzm78bdtelYNrtUwKp4BrA/s400/jeff+154.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">interesting badlands on the descent</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUHot0L0Uv_qAp1rNnzf8eRbCMi6cQvoMq6Ap23nF1MihEa7TglSB_6rL6dGjPS0q8Z5OOMEjsT8gLSOrZTa9Y7thwqqoTZvIpAegZFXQ_6OuproQzY8nU2Jcyygs_juqoJanG0YXN7g/s1600/jeff+156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUHot0L0Uv_qAp1rNnzf8eRbCMi6cQvoMq6Ap23nF1MihEa7TglSB_6rL6dGjPS0q8Z5OOMEjsT8gLSOrZTa9Y7thwqqoTZvIpAegZFXQ_6OuproQzY8nU2Jcyygs_juqoJanG0YXN7g/s320/jeff+156.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we knew we were out of the desert finally when we saw leaf cutter ants about</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9GYOQw4aW384J9C_59bBw6NqEKmkUEy1f8t8cne5dcFUHdwxxBNf9jk92vYqx7CiW4asnxhlb9VdRZm58JZrknl7o6Rthn-6sdAa_KYJaF4xnmr8oIlkZKLvnDyFaWCbCQwCC_6MqQ/s1600/jeff+159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9GYOQw4aW384J9C_59bBw6NqEKmkUEy1f8t8cne5dcFUHdwxxBNf9jk92vYqx7CiW4asnxhlb9VdRZm58JZrknl7o6Rthn-6sdAa_KYJaF4xnmr8oIlkZKLvnDyFaWCbCQwCC_6MqQ/s400/jeff+159.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">things started getting greener on the lower part of the descent towards Salta, which in all was 128km long, part paved, part dirt, and a net drop of 3400m (11000 feet).</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQTM5W4vxlBwaxTK9QGsRiQEtvmxqT7t-fObHYoBn1qqdQ8dQ_NI19xfe8BY32-_iTqo60Mp51RqpNaZuqDAeNro5Bwh_uqv5OB56UV2Id1YKXukNdtc7MKHzZ8jh51XGx7JGVVp_lQ/s1600/jeff+163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQTM5W4vxlBwaxTK9QGsRiQEtvmxqT7t-fObHYoBn1qqdQ8dQ_NI19xfe8BY32-_iTqo60Mp51RqpNaZuqDAeNro5Bwh_uqv5OB56UV2Id1YKXukNdtc7MKHzZ8jh51XGx7JGVVp_lQ/s320/jeff+163.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in Salta this couple (José and Maria Santijan) approached us while we were busking and offered us an apartment in their house. Also seen here are their three charismatic dogs.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFAzTRghz0OWNiVe4yb0-6st3583f_ziegjJoO4SsR0RIoGeV6ChPV09Bkik7UGwnGWMQWNzJBrWpaqnO9Ecta3xOUS_S3PGTP-9KWFFei0y9oeBZmu7miDN7wYCGXkenoQs_ZrujAaw/s1600/jeff+161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFAzTRghz0OWNiVe4yb0-6st3583f_ziegjJoO4SsR0RIoGeV6ChPV09Bkik7UGwnGWMQWNzJBrWpaqnO9Ecta3xOUS_S3PGTP-9KWFFei0y9oeBZmu7miDN7wYCGXkenoQs_ZrujAaw/s400/jeff+161.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... views of Salta from the gondola... </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Ft1hOMqYPVU1uQjFXg2EQY4sOIkpq3BDjt4kCU1KpTGFMqb_5VqhKMDZSejsIwp9hM9uDoY4b0Ef12oKDe83UMfhXPm66JJ8ea03cyzc-cj6nuHgP7Z2p8offwU5Dj2CC21otusEMw/s1600/jeff+162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Ft1hOMqYPVU1uQjFXg2EQY4sOIkpq3BDjt4kCU1KpTGFMqb_5VqhKMDZSejsIwp9hM9uDoY4b0Ef12oKDe83UMfhXPm66JJ8ea03cyzc-cj6nuHgP7Z2p8offwU5Dj2CC21otusEMw/s320/jeff+162.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we had a free entrance since José is the lead technician there</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNnlv2GaygOV8E6uDNcoVng0yVseIiOsLzUXgUBxnDB5OW35IQE_1LFunxHGSMjMAp_kQDdXIZ3BaH56tJTCCIMtry2iDNG6nxUYhUt6z_FE3b8qTxrbCc56oy_M_iooYDck0fwUbhAA/s1600/jeff+160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNnlv2GaygOV8E6uDNcoVng0yVseIiOsLzUXgUBxnDB5OW35IQE_1LFunxHGSMjMAp_kQDdXIZ3BaH56tJTCCIMtry2iDNG6nxUYhUt6z_FE3b8qTxrbCc56oy_M_iooYDck0fwUbhAA/s320/jeff+160.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> an added benefit to busking: girls coming to pose for photos with us. Is that Tom or Gunnar Nelson?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-89904747580262037412011-12-26T14:00:00.001-10:002011-12-26T14:01:57.813-10:00Segment 48: Salinas de Garcia Mendoza, Bolivia to Calama, Chile (November 27, 2011 to December 9, 2011)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnpo_D1zjqD-HXormeVQFVvT8JoayzDU6PieDFrGPoYlsRu47gmnB9oflaiZ30lNuhU8S84ZeQY0n6u43P0erCWyGegR93xNsHkjTIRwjzECu3FTO6xJX9kz4dcL9LDOSh9bNQLE2Q8ns/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnpo_D1zjqD-HXormeVQFVvT8JoayzDU6PieDFrGPoYlsRu47gmnB9oflaiZ30lNuhU8S84ZeQY0n6u43P0erCWyGegR93xNsHkjTIRwjzECu3FTO6xJX9kz4dcL9LDOSh9bNQLE2Q8ns/s200/jefflapaztocalama+197.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">vicuñas seen on the mud flats while leaving Salinas</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvtjUBirhDPVkgr4cGzLrI_w2qErLwbEfS2gqSCiDIJwMxX8rzk5uCdP8_c75ElOZJryVJu-cK7yZ61s1ahYlqworycf9TiCd6QjvYJ07EWe_IVK6Se0NELPzbfjk04HwwvvxYjoUoF-E/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvtjUBirhDPVkgr4cGzLrI_w2qErLwbEfS2gqSCiDIJwMxX8rzk5uCdP8_c75ElOZJryVJu-cK7yZ61s1ahYlqworycf9TiCd6QjvYJ07EWe_IVK6Se0NELPzbfjk04HwwvvxYjoUoF-E/s320/jefflapaztocalama+198.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom on the mud flats with Volcán Tunupa in the background. We are heading to climb this one.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGntJQ8pBg-YXQUxosSstUJd548WlyyzBJqXqMltodXfalI7JiFKBOUHQgqNe4767vGnwRlk6U4zGPMIXAknuC_vkCfmsBOmThWba8sx8U7EEr1BdiJHHJr3NeGfnhhGNH3WEiTFIcwqE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+229.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGntJQ8pBg-YXQUxosSstUJd548WlyyzBJqXqMltodXfalI7JiFKBOUHQgqNe4767vGnwRlk6U4zGPMIXAknuC_vkCfmsBOmThWba8sx8U7EEr1BdiJHHJr3NeGfnhhGNH3WEiTFIcwqE/s320/jefflapaztocalama+229.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is the nearly-abandoned village where we stopped to climb Tunupa (on its north side), looking pretty sorry... we wandered around for 20 minutes before we actually found a human being (there were actually two around at the time). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oKq5nkOSTMi3oEu7_8ot2TWpOB5AGWbxw41vqcVdXBF9SCxC_jBgGLwzhhbLq7SccUKmGHeOaMaJz5MNC8T_T25GeY9G2163kyqiGcm5mVjxyRIqZUt3yQkB-6vEIzKaRV1N33niTX8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oKq5nkOSTMi3oEu7_8ot2TWpOB5AGWbxw41vqcVdXBF9SCxC_jBgGLwzhhbLq7SccUKmGHeOaMaJz5MNC8T_T25GeY9G2163kyqiGcm5mVjxyRIqZUt3yQkB-6vEIzKaRV1N33niTX8/s320/jefflapaztocalama+230.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">like much of Bolivia, totally Mad Max style. Post-apocalyptic: abandoned houses, ghost towns, empty villages, old trucks and motors everywhere, the world run down. This is the yard where we left our bikes to go climb Tunupa.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsZWSh1Ny2BYDYoG-ZLq9M4LqqyOXxwktJMhFUPbsJHS-AUzCcwaNbTR83POujqfHchgMDUihIJQlzlf17nfdmaT-PzpuSoTtPldIU8xOOmJxF8fx3E8_CHBdLN2eOwq1dQPCdE862EA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsZWSh1Ny2BYDYoG-ZLq9M4LqqyOXxwktJMhFUPbsJHS-AUzCcwaNbTR83POujqfHchgMDUihIJQlzlf17nfdmaT-PzpuSoTtPldIU8xOOmJxF8fx3E8_CHBdLN2eOwq1dQPCdE862EA/s400/jefflapaztocalama+199.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...dusk scenes on the lower slopes of Tunupa...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjykrE744O05VIORyHdYgvmBjsbVO4KInnuP6Q8hDmrpF0WhZp8engYNZETbgg1BqThzTmtuWHCc82YOC_w8kQ1pd5Q-yIE_rO_Y2tTcWMYxrptkjSdO7751ANmJLCveX0JIL3QazVevOM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjykrE744O05VIORyHdYgvmBjsbVO4KInnuP6Q8hDmrpF0WhZp8engYNZETbgg1BqThzTmtuWHCc82YOC_w8kQ1pd5Q-yIE_rO_Y2tTcWMYxrptkjSdO7751ANmJLCveX0JIL3QazVevOM/s320/jefflapaztocalama+200.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA10qwUgsC1h38QyuqDIR57RguqKHKrw3BLfdoPLrPZw5rez8XCVWYQ8lTLPTtriKCOl5PbvVv02qPj1a8nt8Jj9fQf6VJKIFwB5iLgvgVOVuquRsRWEiauENXtDjgeLmpIiHsEJAKmLQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA10qwUgsC1h38QyuqDIR57RguqKHKrw3BLfdoPLrPZw5rez8XCVWYQ8lTLPTtriKCOl5PbvVv02qPj1a8nt8Jj9fQf6VJKIFwB5iLgvgVOVuquRsRWEiauENXtDjgeLmpIiHsEJAKmLQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+202.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGKUpjAvhBYIiknfPqcEf3CfyACO0nCjr-Sq3weZrd3QUBXGEPhaFNe9qGouzU7gNf4Y4sVMHlNAGHTx7b2Dh5Pvxi8rWncdI9SFAUrVmvv40rCaRSL8_CvnkMOBvk2laCWeyuqYJhiH4/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGKUpjAvhBYIiknfPqcEf3CfyACO0nCjr-Sq3weZrd3QUBXGEPhaFNe9qGouzU7gNf4Y4sVMHlNAGHTx7b2Dh5Pvxi8rWncdI9SFAUrVmvv40rCaRSL8_CvnkMOBvk2laCWeyuqYJhiH4/s320/jefflapaztocalama+204.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the beautiful summit area of Tunupa (5432m, or about 17,800ft), early morning, seen from the north side</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrtFDmm_0gLgx4R1y469fUC4aAYJWviK938g1qrDcKld2y2CFpoiuvSnfq9X3gWxkedKOwqRg8EubioyC1RZau5n6zFe6NyDkompHAK-ep_Xko7X2YRJQ_i-fHomvQ3egWXuFDYCQIkQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVrtFDmm_0gLgx4R1y469fUC4aAYJWviK938g1qrDcKld2y2CFpoiuvSnfq9X3gWxkedKOwqRg8EubioyC1RZau5n6zFe6NyDkompHAK-ep_Xko7X2YRJQ_i-fHomvQ3egWXuFDYCQIkQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+206.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... bizarre bright green lichens smothering entire boulders...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ6KgswvlEbitRu7R-8FqWGnAkC5Fuj67Zz0NDLSlW2Ewp5hKzHBvVGubgzi19yOSP4d_ZcVoQIzU6Xw158SQrMxyaFB2osuamMwY8P-BymuhJm-TxlyzPMMZn2C0emfCNjx8HFfd2iXU/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ6KgswvlEbitRu7R-8FqWGnAkC5Fuj67Zz0NDLSlW2Ewp5hKzHBvVGubgzi19yOSP4d_ZcVoQIzU6Xw158SQrMxyaFB2osuamMwY8P-BymuhJm-TxlyzPMMZn2C0emfCNjx8HFfd2iXU/s320/jefflapaztocalama+208.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1XsJoTqqFhO13gaWjqLyBBTqvOjNv7gU9qsz59Ks1WvomlbH3hDn9sPH1nhA2wH9YL3VQ1WEF_pRIfzCRVrLplYB-wUHe5kHIIZIW2GePVeZmzbqUTCDWRY1GY_kEnJSZ1qLZkiWwGkM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1XsJoTqqFhO13gaWjqLyBBTqvOjNv7gU9qsz59Ks1WvomlbH3hDn9sPH1nhA2wH9YL3VQ1WEF_pRIfzCRVrLplYB-wUHe5kHIIZIW2GePVeZmzbqUTCDWRY1GY_kEnJSZ1qLZkiWwGkM/s320/jefflapaztocalama+209.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the lichens seen up close</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaVyZgZJ7VeBKWKUF-9zRuPS5ZG8iumB9GbVgwZdlm6vgNtAZtTZEf0JpLhffaRtdridzzLY8NL8fYEzBWnatr-fr7H2WgnKO_2m2AfbR9L1N2mYhFl1u3CeDuiSGu2OeyLHmuFfno4_o/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaVyZgZJ7VeBKWKUF-9zRuPS5ZG8iumB9GbVgwZdlm6vgNtAZtTZEf0JpLhffaRtdridzzLY8NL8fYEzBWnatr-fr7H2WgnKO_2m2AfbR9L1N2mYhFl1u3CeDuiSGu2OeyLHmuFfno4_o/s320/jefflapaztocalama+212.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">yes, that is Tom (sideways) giving himself a nice challenge. This whole climb - very steep, no trail, at times talus and others scrambling - featured an array of fun, but was extremely tough, physically-speaking.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNgrOCnILhPuc8qdnRITYG8seplD3PPtFKT_pNVSttRcBTs3nA6xPYpTEz2AB3FkNybssd9hmiE6mIt6mUTziLFsp5r58WR95oYIXIcw96LoRSPVz5uHLMOeO8jjarhjJEjDx1p0UQcy0/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNgrOCnILhPuc8qdnRITYG8seplD3PPtFKT_pNVSttRcBTs3nA6xPYpTEz2AB3FkNybssd9hmiE6mIt6mUTziLFsp5r58WR95oYIXIcw96LoRSPVz5uHLMOeO8jjarhjJEjDx1p0UQcy0/s400/jefflapaztocalama+216.jpg" width="300px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the view from near the top. We didnt reach the true summit as the last approx. 75 meters up featured some seriously exposed rock, which was also flaky and of terrible quality for those without climbing gear, like us.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXt2nAOB98B75VgTHbMKuw_cSwAFC8pI78uc3HEaaHoiyBz-ca1deCS4iF8CgS-rgpgHPVOUdyYmiYCJFuEtqO3CmH9dg9Ng9_U88m_2XNLxVgduiWz5Yip_hvV_DkjHx5yzjl8HpLbA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXt2nAOB98B75VgTHbMKuw_cSwAFC8pI78uc3HEaaHoiyBz-ca1deCS4iF8CgS-rgpgHPVOUdyYmiYCJFuEtqO3CmH9dg9Ng9_U88m_2XNLxVgduiWz5Yip_hvV_DkjHx5yzjl8HpLbA/s400/jefflapaztocalama+217.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the views up here were surreal with the Salar de Uyuni opening up on all sides</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVXLjB10hcrqZ3xhZuwAhKTNY4MHVS0USKd3IOLPVNByfqFE4aGNzyTMZOZgq5kGZuXMolJd7_ICVxJwB_A5JSR43amMpFZ6VjRbvnwpNa8sKdnB3Zd-lkw6H4byZELSzy8oQz1gxI9w/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVXLjB10hcrqZ3xhZuwAhKTNY4MHVS0USKd3IOLPVNByfqFE4aGNzyTMZOZgq5kGZuXMolJd7_ICVxJwB_A5JSR43amMpFZ6VjRbvnwpNa8sKdnB3Zd-lkw6H4byZELSzy8oQz1gxI9w/s320/jefflapaztocalama+219.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom and Jeff backed by the Salar de Uyuni, which we would cycle across the following day</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CcirdVOjgf_hFJs9wGFNRkyRv1wRR8yfnj9nORUd0kgE4taehP1mDTlFy4-5FFv9meHj5Wcealu2f91xP7Z5cBub5E1Ab6V1BIhJeGtzENWRrfzf6UE4_7g38a_W3g0FXaZUOrBdbgg/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CcirdVOjgf_hFJs9wGFNRkyRv1wRR8yfnj9nORUd0kgE4taehP1mDTlFy4-5FFv9meHj5Wcealu2f91xP7Z5cBub5E1Ab6V1BIhJeGtzENWRrfzf6UE4_7g38a_W3g0FXaZUOrBdbgg/s200/jefflapaztocalama+224.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... beautiful cactus seen on the descent...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkBA91O7Neac2Rykw_an0PVlF3SiFLoSNvoIhGktOkjl33Dd2-9B3AU3n45ojbPjrQbXYc0a9LZpxsb452ImniNdseXGgEK5W5TB0DfQJji7t7J_UPNn_uyAcxHEosBE77NNUgx_ZFzUc/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkBA91O7Neac2Rykw_an0PVlF3SiFLoSNvoIhGktOkjl33Dd2-9B3AU3n45ojbPjrQbXYc0a9LZpxsb452ImniNdseXGgEK5W5TB0DfQJji7t7J_UPNn_uyAcxHEosBE77NNUgx_ZFzUc/s200/jefflapaztocalama+226.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVwWYEXqo3zUh_eBD92ruY07aVNrvpZfHTdU-e-VB7y-rBUWdOvXmWlt4J3fye18eGfyORnRaNlJ_GS8GPA9yNCkul6a9YRf3zSKiuJoE3hYxF6b1ofFeZX0YkMXioEuHPzILQwLUTOAg/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVwWYEXqo3zUh_eBD92ruY07aVNrvpZfHTdU-e-VB7y-rBUWdOvXmWlt4J3fye18eGfyORnRaNlJ_GS8GPA9yNCkul6a9YRf3zSKiuJoE3hYxF6b1ofFeZX0YkMXioEuHPzILQwLUTOAg/s320/jefflapaztocalama+233.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">near Jirira in the evening, we ran into this herd of llamas, which completely pulverized our road with their hooves and forced us to push thru sand...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNn6mYeM-ivAJfiITf66gB4TOYdfokC0y8XIiNl1Jo7IgBi2fER5igbKRFDkEYdoAu37xY9BqotIa0QxPnpkNiJRszmS7O7gop1TinaMfa5iqzgtDkulu9cHWgFE7nCC67mRhWdhU055E/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNn6mYeM-ivAJfiITf66gB4TOYdfokC0y8XIiNl1Jo7IgBi2fER5igbKRFDkEYdoAu37xY9BqotIa0QxPnpkNiJRszmS7O7gop1TinaMfa5iqzgtDkulu9cHWgFE7nCC67mRhWdhU055E/s320/jefflapaztocalama+234.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHQ9t9MiBQoHn85MQ0o-ZQb8WLUSKxNZqwVzBGZvlvMy10K9ow-ziKofKGxNGjH5_9OtIfIesNIW8i_QiVRw3O937xHASBw24QQzNntUtvHSwFXn9hqGh_xgI9yQhXwu9OEyPTi-X5fJQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHQ9t9MiBQoHn85MQ0o-ZQb8WLUSKxNZqwVzBGZvlvMy10K9ow-ziKofKGxNGjH5_9OtIfIesNIW8i_QiVRw3O937xHASBw24QQzNntUtvHSwFXn9hqGh_xgI9yQhXwu9OEyPTi-X5fJQ/s400/jefflapaztocalama+237.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the unmistakeable Tunupa the following morning, seen from the south side, while about to enter the Salar de Uyuni</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDvVh5Ew_Bj7vFa68ipJ-szMqVMHh8vbv2EeW3-Sy375gfvW4ZUoyUpSVac3ABWrQukKSk_4S48MgccIpNXrSCZMZsA1HoxXosu4gp-0ywXKx6KKclfAgpaZ4HP7VtZUwuuX2_48ey8hQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDvVh5Ew_Bj7vFa68ipJ-szMqVMHh8vbv2EeW3-Sy375gfvW4ZUoyUpSVac3ABWrQukKSk_4S48MgccIpNXrSCZMZsA1HoxXosu4gp-0ywXKx6KKclfAgpaZ4HP7VtZUwuuX2_48ey8hQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+240.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the famous surface, early morning, of the Salar de Uyuni, largest salt flat in the world. This honeycomb salt formation is nearly unique to the Salar de Uyuni, amazing.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzf5si54X_F5rNPcdZmBpFgnQJaYgKdHeZ7A91O5j51u2-5h0KBd135A4yF6C6T9Wcl_sZJufffIvD_eY3RCcB9WnkpjOzTo7AsQkNfpU1xMcQPiG2Ov6IugrYKdavkz9t9HxhBelzURY/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzf5si54X_F5rNPcdZmBpFgnQJaYgKdHeZ7A91O5j51u2-5h0KBd135A4yF6C6T9Wcl_sZJufffIvD_eY3RCcB9WnkpjOzTo7AsQkNfpU1xMcQPiG2Ov6IugrYKdavkz9t9HxhBelzURY/s200/jefflapaztocalama+241.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOA-L7Ntg-XmzNhhHWtokpWe9ZE2496d6gWhnvV93l079XrAyf98aBtfjMQG-hkTvDCPWEvbv7yPFpt9UgRNl07hEUgGmOiCyzUSuymL8eFXyRxzs7IUJ4fkrYvyZJ1-TZm4Tz1oLbtKE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOA-L7Ntg-XmzNhhHWtokpWe9ZE2496d6gWhnvV93l079XrAyf98aBtfjMQG-hkTvDCPWEvbv7yPFpt9UgRNl07hEUgGmOiCyzUSuymL8eFXyRxzs7IUJ4fkrYvyZJ1-TZm4Tz1oLbtKE/s200/jefflapaztocalama+249.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... arrived at Isla Incahuasi after a 40km-or-so ride across the salar. This time we avoided the midday heat and relaxed all day here...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjVpv3cw-AO9oFWzchhyphenhyphenGx7vkfclDV_tIZY9cUHFLwBkhwojGJfTbM0aJ9yk1q-aBRcaRjQ-cHcy7F0A-ahu7fhpnWbzU1ZE_Ws34PfARevVv0rDwFwIXazv_l0joqHJCtVS5s1Z_VYs/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRjVpv3cw-AO9oFWzchhyphenhyphenGx7vkfclDV_tIZY9cUHFLwBkhwojGJfTbM0aJ9yk1q-aBRcaRjQ-cHcy7F0A-ahu7fhpnWbzU1ZE_Ws34PfARevVv0rDwFwIXazv_l0joqHJCtVS5s1Z_VYs/s320/jefflapaztocalama+251.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the island is famous for its thousands of cacti</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEaVOdHR4Tj2FoPOn-iSYcEjmb9hqFHhuybkgRL7PfRuw5WwT4Mn3wyZyHCNlvyHq0Yh3WZn9TBEtd0TyORDMeIct3rfPu2-LhfGwKwHG4tkWJkfSpLr01rphEngPgwpEC55KzlwIeE3s/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEaVOdHR4Tj2FoPOn-iSYcEjmb9hqFHhuybkgRL7PfRuw5WwT4Mn3wyZyHCNlvyHq0Yh3WZn9TBEtd0TyORDMeIct3rfPu2-LhfGwKwHG4tkWJkfSpLr01rphEngPgwpEC55KzlwIeE3s/s320/jefflapaztocalama+252.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">surreal scene on the salar. this is the water truck coming to Incahuasi.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCoFzgj0XjUAAKVeZOrEcGzDtDwaQYktbPUuZCEhjs4nY8LbrNt7Jt2b5TcZfsH9M8fpgxftVKH0oHwUoyZEf_-pVkiWrLaw_-0G_N4HVxZrMdXjfaD9oYdzGHWoJU3GCsr78MHnatL2g/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCoFzgj0XjUAAKVeZOrEcGzDtDwaQYktbPUuZCEhjs4nY8LbrNt7Jt2b5TcZfsH9M8fpgxftVKH0oHwUoyZEf_-pVkiWrLaw_-0G_N4HVxZrMdXjfaD9oYdzGHWoJU3GCsr78MHnatL2g/s200/jefflapaztocalama+256.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">salt slab table</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJCyPUSMpgky9YaHUeguq06aC9arFoXdegZ5Gpo5KBTqZEHpH69UC9DH6wGT6L_ppP44xLEJ-QLX-7T7iezLzD8oHTF6FmqBFaRU-ov1XXWmByhU0mgOtZWcevWiX8gBzk3Y1XR782wSc/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJCyPUSMpgky9YaHUeguq06aC9arFoXdegZ5Gpo5KBTqZEHpH69UC9DH6wGT6L_ppP44xLEJ-QLX-7T7iezLzD8oHTF6FmqBFaRU-ov1XXWmByhU0mgOtZWcevWiX8gBzk3Y1XR782wSc/s200/jefflapaztocalama+257.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">some more cactus</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Xmh31rkLhlPEmhQRzRFXxpOvQUkpkqyN5YQx0U19GR7TLbs4QirOn2VLmWeaagwm9zs9qbKHLo0QYdOV5eFaGZWtIeUVo96hP-IX9pIXrcbkMQD0YkJpqAkkT7X617wYRxdc1Xe-Ewg/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Xmh31rkLhlPEmhQRzRFXxpOvQUkpkqyN5YQx0U19GR7TLbs4QirOn2VLmWeaagwm9zs9qbKHLo0QYdOV5eFaGZWtIeUVo96hP-IX9pIXrcbkMQD0YkJpqAkkT7X617wYRxdc1Xe-Ewg/s320/jefflapaztocalama+260.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">ancient coral fossils on Incahuasi</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_JDlUehxJsdxpLC1mNbQJoUAQP_F2no38ZtYOTX-7jWmScl3xdJ4w_bNx4AhsX3BK-yyfjBBlPwXUVlPIpXkr4utRFPprAyAnfY0_3nmPOSfgu9dZYa-HMowEiHc4QpZeHmTBXZLVMQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_JDlUehxJsdxpLC1mNbQJoUAQP_F2no38ZtYOTX-7jWmScl3xdJ4w_bNx4AhsX3BK-yyfjBBlPwXUVlPIpXkr4utRFPprAyAnfY0_3nmPOSfgu9dZYa-HMowEiHc4QpZeHmTBXZLVMQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+261.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom plucks ukelele while tour driver describes road ahead and old lady (has lived here 25 years on Incahuasi in the middle of salt flats in temperature extremes that are unbelievable) eagerly hangs around.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL6KevzaQtGss77y3Yd1UX19H69APC6MVrBrFGrFH2c1YTvQqtfCWaGS-GgmGpJZPjgV5IxUjIQagyq1I_4rAyQ4gATgUfohhCTpzv4OFkaGdpCkwbjoR0jXN4zHGO7W1Y7fV_JMqSsfo/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL6KevzaQtGss77y3Yd1UX19H69APC6MVrBrFGrFH2c1YTvQqtfCWaGS-GgmGpJZPjgV5IxUjIQagyq1I_4rAyQ4gATgUfohhCTpzv4OFkaGdpCkwbjoR0jXN4zHGO7W1Y7fV_JMqSsfo/s200/jefflapaztocalama+262.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this plate has a slab of llama meat on it</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwB2MZZWmFpMEG9p7hpcRee-OAvoMy1Jb9LZqY3iGK5eiCpXb5OegLa66zHaGzRzVu4VWZswV16i7U30MmK4a7INxFCJRaBtMdMw8uPIal7026c9X5sU36CCfLIUQ24MtVfrlLB2WN5I/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwB2MZZWmFpMEG9p7hpcRee-OAvoMy1Jb9LZqY3iGK5eiCpXb5OegLa66zHaGzRzVu4VWZswV16i7U30MmK4a7INxFCJRaBtMdMw8uPIal7026c9X5sU36CCfLIUQ24MtVfrlLB2WN5I/s400/jefflapaztocalama+266.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">leaving Incahuasi (midground) in the early evening with Tunupa now far in the distance</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnTcpIkNl1PAJr-AR0vzZDREnUYvQGgP8e4o0PXzZfVKgJHsN4aZr9fOckrgKY8ONynV2rm3bBmpDDijrsIpfXc8gAiG1QQ3GdR644M4SBrS7KNsUe1lHKGoaI7hVyVNK-5Q__Hwyoz_8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnTcpIkNl1PAJr-AR0vzZDREnUYvQGgP8e4o0PXzZfVKgJHsN4aZr9fOckrgKY8ONynV2rm3bBmpDDijrsIpfXc8gAiG1QQ3GdR644M4SBrS7KNsUe1lHKGoaI7hVyVNK-5Q__Hwyoz_8/s400/jefflapaztocalama+270.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...we were treated to this kind of evening colors...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWng-Un38nlrTIShNbDv9Ec_31HTzGvSCuD8MMUgO0B2XOsWTAxUSrLIISOxBIFWfOLvRWxiSuECXzPogSW_ChwrnrQ_0t6Kju2RdDxnPA5k7CrFrOL3CQOTHt_qnEmJj6Vy5pancag30/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWng-Un38nlrTIShNbDv9Ec_31HTzGvSCuD8MMUgO0B2XOsWTAxUSrLIISOxBIFWfOLvRWxiSuECXzPogSW_ChwrnrQ_0t6Kju2RdDxnPA5k7CrFrOL3CQOTHt_qnEmJj6Vy5pancag30/s200/jefflapaztocalama+271.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtA_mhZA7HjjkUXvAn91tbGE_kX4VYLs9X7H3WsOstfOZwL2EfIQ6_tPqu8B5CxSM7CADTTURhGc0_KCPEHHgTj_aW4rGPOJ2N-HLYQP80GM0VjlC4UhQ4fq9DeYr0JkjDMWgOwoK7BR0/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtA_mhZA7HjjkUXvAn91tbGE_kX4VYLs9X7H3WsOstfOZwL2EfIQ6_tPqu8B5CxSM7CADTTURhGc0_KCPEHHgTj_aW4rGPOJ2N-HLYQP80GM0VjlC4UhQ4fq9DeYr0JkjDMWgOwoK7BR0/s400/jefflapaztocalama+274.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblNdhDzg_8ODlfFh16mOb8pdkpb_iXwHve_eV9XD0jki6KXBmEu04nkJltvKGtUDLZTPu5SzLz_nmMTbxK8cmiOahi_PNmqIzqmtKaxZOMp5hd4z1eF1HtOxGcFDJ4PTKMHP4RuhL-no/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblNdhDzg_8ODlfFh16mOb8pdkpb_iXwHve_eV9XD0jki6KXBmEu04nkJltvKGtUDLZTPu5SzLz_nmMTbxK8cmiOahi_PNmqIzqmtKaxZOMp5hd4z1eF1HtOxGcFDJ4PTKMHP4RuhL-no/s320/jefflapaztocalama+277.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">swallowed up by the salt flat immensity (that is a bicycle seen lower center right)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQWo-eAKnterNaCp7kA76iPt0Jz1vZKj_i-mFt1B8kUt7kgBMruJNG8f4Y0P2z-2vQ5Dosaf8ydOoY2Ubjjmrna85Ua-MCms2jf4RdzX4plzTAJxd1XrVrsR1ZXi_g3ezcO5zEm8URpC0/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQWo-eAKnterNaCp7kA76iPt0Jz1vZKj_i-mFt1B8kUt7kgBMruJNG8f4Y0P2z-2vQ5Dosaf8ydOoY2Ubjjmrna85Ua-MCms2jf4RdzX4plzTAJxd1XrVrsR1ZXi_g3ezcO5zEm8URpC0/s400/jefflapaztocalama+281.jpg" width="300px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">waning moon rising over the salar as we prepare to camp in the middle of all of this!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXwCzJPQQl1A-1Lx8bfTQPeC_tznKj-khOgzDO_tJ45r4K7ChyphenhyphenBifoi4uYxxNKexbZBlXBc0vUuuhOL4WWCDfUWm10_Y6BvJxzYKrpOkf6K5TBMfJ5XsiR5rI3bxsItVa_xvFE1vCCTxY/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXwCzJPQQl1A-1Lx8bfTQPeC_tznKj-khOgzDO_tJ45r4K7ChyphenhyphenBifoi4uYxxNKexbZBlXBc0vUuuhOL4WWCDfUWm10_Y6BvJxzYKrpOkf6K5TBMfJ5XsiR5rI3bxsItVa_xvFE1vCCTxY/s320/jefflapaztocalama+282.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">breaking up our camp at dawn</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnMvIFQ8SUfFKN5Apo-kMGdDQUp_9DgaK8zD_axvxBiCvMoQoiwVDunAGwRjrFIZq09u-hwaN4ArspSceoGLY2QsqZnwGQCHfSQGat-n6zrFYwQOJaJ_x5tZqBe7Gs0t1hyphenhyphen0LwzNDoE6U/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+284.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnMvIFQ8SUfFKN5Apo-kMGdDQUp_9DgaK8zD_axvxBiCvMoQoiwVDunAGwRjrFIZq09u-hwaN4ArspSceoGLY2QsqZnwGQCHfSQGat-n6zrFYwQOJaJ_x5tZqBe7Gs0t1hyphenhyphen0LwzNDoE6U/s320/jefflapaztocalama+284.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">interesting salt formations as we are exiting the salar</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqYS4Jq1yc_dHQhOvF-az_qw91Jxme6Y-9gt6p7VO_Uu96qRB3BUSdP_3Pd5Vl7jVVtRemKapUBPiCfEnzt8ytZht510uedFchBU_L5_bGQg1u2AeEV1-VA87bWpFaIb5vlm532rHW3Ys/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqYS4Jq1yc_dHQhOvF-az_qw91Jxme6Y-9gt6p7VO_Uu96qRB3BUSdP_3Pd5Vl7jVVtRemKapUBPiCfEnzt8ytZht510uedFchBU_L5_bGQg1u2AeEV1-VA87bWpFaIb5vlm532rHW3Ys/s320/jefflapaztocalama+286.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">heading to San Juan we hit some horrible deep sand, moderate pushing here</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_oPYdsWP9u3X8jQuHO-8QoNiKpBGyr3NX1O1n5wb-Yo64CKfiPwRWzzEPVODDLkKrtF3YmdMZ66yZuUsRG-z1Z7oh2jJFlsYB2qimuVSIiBUynhDmLg-HrtJF7cXoQqG187P-YFw2ttk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_oPYdsWP9u3X8jQuHO-8QoNiKpBGyr3NX1O1n5wb-Yo64CKfiPwRWzzEPVODDLkKrtF3YmdMZ66yZuUsRG-z1Z7oh2jJFlsYB2qimuVSIiBUynhDmLg-HrtJF7cXoQqG187P-YFw2ttk/s200/jefflapaztocalama+289.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">arrived at San Juan well after dark</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKCICVBNJjMCa0VTipY5sW2ev35C87cFG8lRR46vaSFlwQoY2_zaeQ4jdjwohhOdM6NL-fTsA-baGhNjOHYf9R6SO-f9hGbbjGYPBIpvTCNR6BbPuUIzJj5ZSjOUAXpzlGxc2IkTdSnZM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKCICVBNJjMCa0VTipY5sW2ev35C87cFG8lRR46vaSFlwQoY2_zaeQ4jdjwohhOdM6NL-fTsA-baGhNjOHYf9R6SO-f9hGbbjGYPBIpvTCNR6BbPuUIzJj5ZSjOUAXpzlGxc2IkTdSnZM/s200/jefflapaztocalama+291.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff's lower lip not showing much healing progress while resting in San Juan. Aside from the lips/ dry skin/ sunburn, both of us fell sick during this whole stretch (2-3 weeks), with dry coughs, sore throats, runny noses, fatigue, light fevers, lost voice, etc.. This complicated the riding horribly, as we couldn't ever properly rest in such desert conditions and high altitudes. We did go to the Centro de Salud in San Juan, where they sold us some antibiotics which later didn't work at all!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-NFPTAi5iXaw4NTxg-PnJ6_VcP5zSeSjGnBcl_mllD4j68kzqVjsgoePuEeGGfkYSLg3bLFi_DVXzgQIyiDhajqXOjiWEIOeS4F9vYizE0_zLK537rCbvq0IDjAGExOAWOPRl7ReOwE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+296.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-NFPTAi5iXaw4NTxg-PnJ6_VcP5zSeSjGnBcl_mllD4j68kzqVjsgoePuEeGGfkYSLg3bLFi_DVXzgQIyiDhajqXOjiWEIOeS4F9vYizE0_zLK537rCbvq0IDjAGExOAWOPRl7ReOwE/s200/jefflapaztocalama+296.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">vicuña tracks leaving San Juan</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfnQdFf4fqmTy2F5BYTDOmkLWkhY4u0REAjg6hrcuECgfKHDMkPJwWL71VrN09DdkVnGaQNCxH-NfYUtLxNFEiB5_IHXHMrgRaMp2G3I2z6yJ1N9RdDM14QNYpLwDYE1tKzkAF1fnpNDA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfnQdFf4fqmTy2F5BYTDOmkLWkhY4u0REAjg6hrcuECgfKHDMkPJwWL71VrN09DdkVnGaQNCxH-NfYUtLxNFEiB5_IHXHMrgRaMp2G3I2z6yJ1N9RdDM14QNYpLwDYE1tKzkAF1fnpNDA/s400/jefflapaztocalama+297.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... more great riding as we approach the Salar de Ciguana...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZH7dVVYAShYWqJHkx-1ZZTfQNtMqm9QB3lSetmGZcsD12a3c5Rb8iV4q_yU-yZZu_oEJ79onFH7qG9jJPXbij14JrRAnrxSf4ehO4ElWVzpQj4ozaoyj50wSaX_CiVZtGgYncLNcWWZQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZH7dVVYAShYWqJHkx-1ZZTfQNtMqm9QB3lSetmGZcsD12a3c5Rb8iV4q_yU-yZZu_oEJ79onFH7qG9jJPXbij14JrRAnrxSf4ehO4ElWVzpQj4ozaoyj50wSaX_CiVZtGgYncLNcWWZQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+300.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3YpAjBEbytxDmJjOyaDT7QHKNwHxATkfnv8Qg827ZJTNSoTASmjCYIuquvZiPSYEoNW2u8EncBy4EYDNZbGZs_Wbggc5fYz_BAjIt3m9yHAjy3A0KO1P7kmOHb7N8WuIg3XJ0u0PZyK4/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3YpAjBEbytxDmJjOyaDT7QHKNwHxATkfnv8Qg827ZJTNSoTASmjCYIuquvZiPSYEoNW2u8EncBy4EYDNZbGZs_Wbggc5fYz_BAjIt3m9yHAjy3A0KO1P7kmOHb7N8WuIg3XJ0u0PZyK4/s320/jefflapaztocalama+302.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBWeDh8QgW7cDPttOLUibOn-uzJLYEaHj70eiswv0sy0a5Kw8pQ3CJxKXWAqdOeBVRor9-YuGz5uL9ODa1ZsB73kZwHmbDO_cCQIgwnvhzHQgbFbyi35Gg4NprVmzpCh6BqYW1y7wxykw/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBWeDh8QgW7cDPttOLUibOn-uzJLYEaHj70eiswv0sy0a5Kw8pQ3CJxKXWAqdOeBVRor9-YuGz5uL9ODa1ZsB73kZwHmbDO_cCQIgwnvhzHQgbFbyi35Gg4NprVmzpCh6BqYW1y7wxykw/s320/jefflapaztocalama+305.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a tough climb on loose, sandy, pebbly and steep surfaces up out of Ciguana</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_vEf0iqDvvMJHAbRLh8VAno2AeGTXvo6hhA5b_fFFTLOvEfPO4nBmdIp4r5-q2IxQjPfy75HBX5vmvJt_a_UTQxA8hyphenhypheniTbgrBVEhx9xRvPm9hPZ1lGFWS7HvgyaguhU5LI6HngfV9lA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_vEf0iqDvvMJHAbRLh8VAno2AeGTXvo6hhA5b_fFFTLOvEfPO4nBmdIp4r5-q2IxQjPfy75HBX5vmvJt_a_UTQxA8hyphenhypheniTbgrBVEhx9xRvPm9hPZ1lGFWS7HvgyaguhU5LI6HngfV9lA/s320/jefflapaztocalama+307.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our campsite behind a windbreak (too bad photos can't depict wind because it nearly never stops out here, wreaking havoc on your pedaling and on your camping as well, really no rest at all)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhV6KEq0TE0oZ_eS-6tUuVKTxaJ3ILWaV7RjlVgJOib0mHBeOEcmvg0XottNPSiZsN5ahyphenhyphenDum8VpKcE-l478lyDcEabnRKPBDS8nxtrvg0nZ8pmM4hRqCtFrmAhdqPQzQj4SHGUlg4VGU/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhV6KEq0TE0oZ_eS-6tUuVKTxaJ3ILWaV7RjlVgJOib0mHBeOEcmvg0XottNPSiZsN5ahyphenhyphenDum8VpKcE-l478lyDcEabnRKPBDS8nxtrvg0nZ8pmM4hRqCtFrmAhdqPQzQj4SHGUlg4VGU/s320/jefflapaztocalama+312.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">llamas backed by high volcano</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkMu-GKxOf3KhBeS3LWEqipPkdY8XVhX56F5AbI5gpcZwe_Op4NVP6znkuaWNoUWl18KlSTBnppRhTJ8bcjhNm1TaoyFsJcSurEzFmTXyPehmJj6gdmTDirOyxMqsMuEP1KZiLNbAiKA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkMu-GKxOf3KhBeS3LWEqipPkdY8XVhX56F5AbI5gpcZwe_Op4NVP6znkuaWNoUWl18KlSTBnppRhTJ8bcjhNm1TaoyFsJcSurEzFmTXyPehmJj6gdmTDirOyxMqsMuEP1KZiLNbAiKA/s400/jefflapaztocalama+314.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">checking out Volcán Ollague</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmzQb2gFHRVK43pN9KjPGIjo_XxFNMt9zOn3mBUmSe1Il2OU-4Renllk45UcsXoAatoFMs_Rn9YnWDrcXwf9eukeFvhPsDXyhCQ4_1g-OMl1y_tyf4Gu0kO9Gj9TcigqgV_C9GkX5nTYI/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmzQb2gFHRVK43pN9KjPGIjo_XxFNMt9zOn3mBUmSe1Il2OU-4Renllk45UcsXoAatoFMs_Rn9YnWDrcXwf9eukeFvhPsDXyhCQ4_1g-OMl1y_tyf4Gu0kO9Gj9TcigqgV_C9GkX5nTYI/s320/jefflapaztocalama+315.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">fun stuff in between sandy stretches</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxBsYiJcTuDxMcui8qckMaViRZMB0KwpqUy_ShUmtYWyBpfSCWSRxw8t8aVQivdOIruqSEOVa0WBe2WiRT_FlhZLR2eFlqBVBjxl8ahbopAAP-xVMBPtAIdZrSSqEGtpFMUbV6B2EEhpE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxBsYiJcTuDxMcui8qckMaViRZMB0KwpqUy_ShUmtYWyBpfSCWSRxw8t8aVQivdOIruqSEOVa0WBe2WiRT_FlhZLR2eFlqBVBjxl8ahbopAAP-xVMBPtAIdZrSSqEGtpFMUbV6B2EEhpE/s320/jefflapaztocalama+319.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">drop the bikes, get on the rocks!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CwDmhVQI4wunnpzFiRy8vnEEO-4dcUz-f_dAxBAQMh8oXXhKBwg2c7629ErnvIw_IyFxafUmPSQfalTJZJSotA3ZtBAKq8jHDuXdVLLZUSNCZ-r5uBl1QYFSsdKbysFXkrGaI0Q-2T0/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CwDmhVQI4wunnpzFiRy8vnEEO-4dcUz-f_dAxBAQMh8oXXhKBwg2c7629ErnvIw_IyFxafUmPSQfalTJZJSotA3ZtBAKq8jHDuXdVLLZUSNCZ-r5uBl1QYFSsdKbysFXkrGaI0Q-2T0/s200/jefflapaztocalama+320.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we had to carry a lot of water out here</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CVAtmrGrVt6ERVgMZOYZlqPWqaNezCeCzGGfkOwdxMym5FkURd2ftMb3Rv2HEqcqb5KTnsbIXegrmedE9-ELES3Btk5EkAePiJkwSxLFJxia5Cbc2OFZlQsJavDR6YL3UAMpyMLfqYA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4CVAtmrGrVt6ERVgMZOYZlqPWqaNezCeCzGGfkOwdxMym5FkURd2ftMb3Rv2HEqcqb5KTnsbIXegrmedE9-ELES3Btk5EkAePiJkwSxLFJxia5Cbc2OFZlQsJavDR6YL3UAMpyMLfqYA/s400/jefflapaztocalama+322.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">minor eruptions on Volcán Ollague</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzeOTsnXN73JZkTGkgY_h-yySmPuPp0ZnBC0SI03vs7oysZdCSnTzslObc4hMyNDylOgJC_mNURtL_nSIdzvrh1q1fSg3Cjn7K8YGaQQrCcO6OVk34Vkom3vgh-JI5mMc-OwLJErlljdQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+372.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzeOTsnXN73JZkTGkgY_h-yySmPuPp0ZnBC0SI03vs7oysZdCSnTzslObc4hMyNDylOgJC_mNURtL_nSIdzvrh1q1fSg3Cjn7K8YGaQQrCcO6OVk34Vkom3vgh-JI5mMc-OwLJErlljdQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+372.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">morbid llama remains at a roadside abandoned house</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTim8DfPGkfyhgRW-CfLNFVLjNT1VKwt83c1QuNypSA_06906WxcPDgWxxxj_uJvdBakP02xUqrPaxdGc-8DC5kZpKHOvDl2UKu2W8tA-_eXokKymYGBZDgmbA2rsZGPfiH6Ld4kGwmzs/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTim8DfPGkfyhgRW-CfLNFVLjNT1VKwt83c1QuNypSA_06906WxcPDgWxxxj_uJvdBakP02xUqrPaxdGc-8DC5kZpKHOvDl2UKu2W8tA-_eXokKymYGBZDgmbA2rsZGPfiH6Ld4kGwmzs/s200/jefflapaztocalama+324.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a live one nearby</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRQmhwNOYdZqxIjm83ncE_2V52uaUhIZnF7mG9U0w59u_b3k7o-TI9Ftjxc0rdYsj3QXVC9LApy2YnKhtYUrqeOIsBNC-3DcNPG5FrBGNxRL9mY0Tnby53zy8fqwDbnP_W2NskZtJRjaA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRQmhwNOYdZqxIjm83ncE_2V52uaUhIZnF7mG9U0w59u_b3k7o-TI9Ftjxc0rdYsj3QXVC9LApy2YnKhtYUrqeOIsBNC-3DcNPG5FrBGNxRL9mY0Tnby53zy8fqwDbnP_W2NskZtJRjaA/s400/jefflapaztocalama+332.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">sunset on the altiplano, invisible wind ripping like mad</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40aZq4xU0QfgJZIMGyjT38nJE45Q7We0A9gPl9HLyjJ5xQpQtZo_QPD-fwv0beKhUPcPYu13-QB1uVzKIL7Z6HaDupy4C0azKR3x2BJpaP6cdaB4Ay-I88xQMesR2KkUKRSI6lvLYQvY/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40aZq4xU0QfgJZIMGyjT38nJE45Q7We0A9gPl9HLyjJ5xQpQtZo_QPD-fwv0beKhUPcPYu13-QB1uVzKIL7Z6HaDupy4C0azKR3x2BJpaP6cdaB4Ay-I88xQMesR2KkUKRSI6lvLYQvY/s320/jefflapaztocalama+334.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...the road as we head towards the famous lagunas of southwest Bolivia...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyktTqIT8m-FBwR-yPR3CKGQfKTLtw0A9E1n3ZSIREZVQweeNKHrbA1dUFOn30RAO0nWPzMkRGDt_KpOP5aDgfjdXO4DwlxmGFr3APH5Lo5-33EhVcbwlm7zlk7P5W1WnJ2yq-AeHwZ2c/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyktTqIT8m-FBwR-yPR3CKGQfKTLtw0A9E1n3ZSIREZVQweeNKHrbA1dUFOn30RAO0nWPzMkRGDt_KpOP5aDgfjdXO4DwlxmGFr3APH5Lo5-33EhVcbwlm7zlk7P5W1WnJ2yq-AeHwZ2c/s400/jefflapaztocalama+335.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLefyQ4eS36yEW_g_afDBknPKsVBkGTFm7g90_nma-nHLIGTHtwovJvJ_M5EdvdjjiJHNMZGy1R2uNSthcVMwvDauA2_9AjNPe2vGHlscrknsaNzyld_u3ud23al_0axh7UsM_73E7qtE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLefyQ4eS36yEW_g_afDBknPKsVBkGTFm7g90_nma-nHLIGTHtwovJvJ_M5EdvdjjiJHNMZGy1R2uNSthcVMwvDauA2_9AjNPe2vGHlscrknsaNzyld_u3ud23al_0axh7UsM_73E7qtE/s320/jefflapaztocalama+338.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... flamingoes at Laguna Cañapa, the first of a series of salt lakes along this stretch...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUk_enKY4s7WHeRCAkScQVKzvD-Z4wC-Q4JoBltTdDRTun7hcu2aEUSTjvhq1rMHTUt8_q1VZdLC7hFrALNZvFCfGHCZP4H6AhLr_hm03Aj5mn2dYad5DkAT7suQlBc3v6enr5UFcop3Y/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUk_enKY4s7WHeRCAkScQVKzvD-Z4wC-Q4JoBltTdDRTun7hcu2aEUSTjvhq1rMHTUt8_q1VZdLC7hFrALNZvFCfGHCZP4H6AhLr_hm03Aj5mn2dYad5DkAT7suQlBc3v6enr5UFcop3Y/s400/jefflapaztocalama+342.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw55IPyN6WpWg-4smuRoBTaZH9XChBkF0MpyX02YKH4fVMK63m049EGukIN3BSLv8T830cpJW0P05UKR83sZOhuDWAaczFMjBVPAniMnyZoFQwsv6JsnYQGP9uMqzAW1roWC9JDixs2Jg/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw55IPyN6WpWg-4smuRoBTaZH9XChBkF0MpyX02YKH4fVMK63m049EGukIN3BSLv8T830cpJW0P05UKR83sZOhuDWAaczFMjBVPAniMnyZoFQwsv6JsnYQGP9uMqzAW1roWC9JDixs2Jg/s400/jefflapaztocalama+346.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">nearly arrived at Laguna Hedionda, beautiful landscapes in total wilderness, but this is actually terrible cycling with a stiff headwind and in loose sand. When crosswind gusts would come they would push us off our narrow lane and into deep sand, over and over and over. Torture, really.</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQuErMkAlPN96nB9o2ruusl5MLuhfO5g2phAfU3gRw05ZFTNNkthbeQAGIbQFcq672-yRcTfrWGPNvr5GP4hCmjGpi2KhMPQISEwpm6en3KSFtKi7juClQmjQ5JZAlP2hKKtfZrXNcB4/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQuErMkAlPN96nB9o2ruusl5MLuhfO5g2phAfU3gRw05ZFTNNkthbeQAGIbQFcq672-yRcTfrWGPNvr5GP4hCmjGpi2KhMPQISEwpm6en3KSFtKi7juClQmjQ5JZAlP2hKKtfZrXNcB4/s320/jefflapaztocalama+349.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...Laguna Hedionda...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY8UtO3-BUJFct3p8eEL3Lczgk2AmaqT5H41Ik8WHlemMn67vJVLWGfwgoK1JMM32t69NvQMQXISNQwtaROL_8STU3hFslGqLi4lSl3LLglOKyM2K_qKIkO9lBTgmJrsv3dwSwdr7g5p0/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY8UtO3-BUJFct3p8eEL3Lczgk2AmaqT5H41Ik8WHlemMn67vJVLWGfwgoK1JMM32t69NvQMQXISNQwtaROL_8STU3hFslGqLi4lSl3LLglOKyM2K_qKIkO9lBTgmJrsv3dwSwdr7g5p0/s320/jefflapaztocalama+352.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCciEbej4t7tpU2fgz0IYHdyAj8AOpH145qbBgvh9bZIDy5LfYI3f4ZJ2-5napOIycl1GTbYHtmjBeRoUNDzMNHQa3BdJMvYAbnH982XUHbM05tYborkg5iwDQ0ouEOMBeZeTykIjmjlc/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCciEbej4t7tpU2fgz0IYHdyAj8AOpH145qbBgvh9bZIDy5LfYI3f4ZJ2-5napOIycl1GTbYHtmjBeRoUNDzMNHQa3BdJMvYAbnH982XUHbM05tYborkg5iwDQ0ouEOMBeZeTykIjmjlc/s320/jefflapaztocalama+354.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...flamingoes abound here as well...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj_q6n4MU8B729bUPG2r1I3lYUKmcbz7HPyIfSd8HuZ3CLke1931cywT8lyuPFpiX4XzyooHVARJY6j9d5YEA8MakLtscAVj0i3QHK6-kJkVorSKHP55XXkuPEkbLD51UmtMPXZxd0O64/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj_q6n4MU8B729bUPG2r1I3lYUKmcbz7HPyIfSd8HuZ3CLke1931cywT8lyuPFpiX4XzyooHVARJY6j9d5YEA8MakLtscAVj0i3QHK6-kJkVorSKHP55XXkuPEkbLD51UmtMPXZxd0O64/s320/jefflapaztocalama+356.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhio7cB76rvxeD7AhqcoZUaXnRC9TaCRlnoTLuoHB4WaYHXYBMUDPhLgsBrhAt5Qdq09sdLKFJEH2DjO9rIWHxkEzlB3PIfd33YpV9zhuGxabtl-eUCrTkVKt7fLplU_-h-Z9F-qn6pk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhio7cB76rvxeD7AhqcoZUaXnRC9TaCRlnoTLuoHB4WaYHXYBMUDPhLgsBrhAt5Qdq09sdLKFJEH2DjO9rIWHxkEzlB3PIfd33YpV9zhuGxabtl-eUCrTkVKt7fLplU_-h-Z9F-qn6pk/s320/jefflapaztocalama+357.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">more tough cycling around Hedionda. We ran out of water here and drank from the laguna, not recommended, as we ended up with serious apathy and nausea for several days! This on top of our pre-existing illnesses...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwsNasHEkNEwgkE1d_1S3U1UL6A5DfzCshZfKXi2jUrraTQ_tamd_r7TMvXUrztW3OpCJJYwai9GXejEfaUXSyHrVq2BlWFQ1j4h6r1RgQXX5SiZ6hX80KEe55DOhmBhKiQQAJffWhRQE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwsNasHEkNEwgkE1d_1S3U1UL6A5DfzCshZfKXi2jUrraTQ_tamd_r7TMvXUrztW3OpCJJYwai9GXejEfaUXSyHrVq2BlWFQ1j4h6r1RgQXX5SiZ6hX80KEe55DOhmBhKiQQAJffWhRQE/s400/jefflapaztocalama+358.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">another look at Laguna Hedionda (4150m) at dusk, ringed by numerous high volcanoes all over 5500m or so</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2fPiBrXkM6_NS6UAWxy9UouW1DACRgAkdTYby0x6eWiWm2vjDXGXFe8a3MRRwXLGPzFnXfAqDPP74_lIe_YsnXBh3wGEVyQG5sfny2A2NBJgiYIMQH1GIAcLJ-tSdOFrM_6_Cus-nS4/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2fPiBrXkM6_NS6UAWxy9UouW1DACRgAkdTYby0x6eWiWm2vjDXGXFe8a3MRRwXLGPzFnXfAqDPP74_lIe_YsnXBh3wGEVyQG5sfny2A2NBJgiYIMQH1GIAcLJ-tSdOFrM_6_Cus-nS4/s320/jefflapaztocalama+361.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...we stayed in the ruins of a hotel bordering the laguna, but as ever, the days are scorching and the nights are freezing. we would awake with our water bottles frozen... and then hide from the sun all day...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzYiRPmikYJztdDtEM-fArNo6ASEWGeABEw5M3XcUNr8YnuBYdGrJGsWRf8jFlZ8h8XXjpQTqrgq9jyoFRVKv5W4H-HJ5bpK3x9JS4tXQ-jA_jpfCHGiqbi_dKJG4wbqZ8zt1tQenXY4/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzYiRPmikYJztdDtEM-fArNo6ASEWGeABEw5M3XcUNr8YnuBYdGrJGsWRf8jFlZ8h8XXjpQTqrgq9jyoFRVKv5W4H-HJ5bpK3x9JS4tXQ-jA_jpfCHGiqbi_dKJG4wbqZ8zt1tQenXY4/s200/jefflapaztocalama+359.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our somewhat comfortable lodging</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNeFRhE8aHwLsxP4aYaZ6ih_50TmmDTqUFU_i_W1JCiOc2EBS8gZhJ8uWhNTTyK1Jd8dD9rqTTz3gw2X93KhqcBGh3fbwc_wKArzYXXmbJL9WJbJZUVSL-SdIlTTxsGxXnhN11LqpSS2M/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+363.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNeFRhE8aHwLsxP4aYaZ6ih_50TmmDTqUFU_i_W1JCiOc2EBS8gZhJ8uWhNTTyK1Jd8dD9rqTTz3gw2X93KhqcBGh3fbwc_wKArzYXXmbJL9WJbJZUVSL-SdIlTTxsGxXnhN11LqpSS2M/s400/jefflapaztocalama+363.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">leaving Hedionda and heading south towards Laguna Colorada</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHT6MEs4vfwZ4ThyphenhyphenIdisLK_ulhYUrgXsjMOUWVVlUajmG2izZjpwn16SDUnSFQaeQZaGZNQ7ZrGJwNTKk0qDv-SRNTWuc-T2qp-WKzD_haEzKH1YGrNdB50BEO5RchSV2O0-wwwO9K90I/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHT6MEs4vfwZ4ThyphenhyphenIdisLK_ulhYUrgXsjMOUWVVlUajmG2izZjpwn16SDUnSFQaeQZaGZNQ7ZrGJwNTKk0qDv-SRNTWuc-T2qp-WKzD_haEzKH1YGrNdB50BEO5RchSV2O0-wwwO9K90I/s320/jefflapaztocalama+366.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">unfortunately after 32,000km Jeff's saddle rail snapped out here in the middle of nowhere on terrible washboard roads. Tough decision, but seeing that we are still quite far from L. Colorada (with the roads supposedly in even worse shape) and further still Laguna Verde and the descent to Chile, and sick as dogs on top of it all, we decide to turn around and head to Chile via Ollague. Torture as well, since we would have to repeat this tough stretch back out of the hinterlands.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGu95qpDVe0_kWnUSm6GYkm9xZPf8SYbS0nvBQvIVZa8pTmbctKFjCxrwCtbcz9BgDRPfznI3dqsvmGeztAMOjeeDef_iN4ZScESGkf1fvhDmnLzswJOCLK1j-pPFNVFGVVehKuU6xAHo/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGu95qpDVe0_kWnUSm6GYkm9xZPf8SYbS0nvBQvIVZa8pTmbctKFjCxrwCtbcz9BgDRPfznI3dqsvmGeztAMOjeeDef_iN4ZScESGkf1fvhDmnLzswJOCLK1j-pPFNVFGVVehKuU6xAHo/s200/jefflapaztocalama+364.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... two haggard riders at the moment of turning back, beaten mercilessly by the wind, dehydrated, hungry...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAgkVlbGI7g_NsYiussKWQJjdYOUSYNFLcraYFNaEZRtBDh2xPziAn6OaxrvNBKUjfhF0JSR0XB9zt6LHzKBydYLls2EzY4q4umylcg-skqd5QKny87Jsdsw48bJuee4X71Gis4E3YEDg/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAgkVlbGI7g_NsYiussKWQJjdYOUSYNFLcraYFNaEZRtBDh2xPziAn6OaxrvNBKUjfhF0JSR0XB9zt6LHzKBydYLls2EzY4q4umylcg-skqd5QKny87Jsdsw48bJuee4X71Gis4E3YEDg/s200/jefflapaztocalama+365.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouitve-JDjFgCHeZRVSloRtgOhN7gC0Iq0lMyLnUUBBA8pfQFYndw1VXlBv_a0e7Dwh9iNL9XYGaCGa_7R17P-9_7xOTYlijhbARMD-1_6A1Wdpig9UeGw40zfiAWvPe7vLMbNR_MhEg/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+369.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouitve-JDjFgCHeZRVSloRtgOhN7gC0Iq0lMyLnUUBBA8pfQFYndw1VXlBv_a0e7Dwh9iNL9XYGaCGa_7R17P-9_7xOTYlijhbARMD-1_6A1Wdpig9UeGw40zfiAWvPe7vLMbNR_MhEg/s320/jefflapaztocalama+369.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">roadside house (inhabited) where we stayed en route towards the border of Bolivia/Chile</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW9Qf0W1YMFMIxtzMqKOenBqmLerW_-CGpX_o9DWaXKJw7Hv2BxkY6omSB8EgqCJVuugUL63cTq1yNwkWvdxbgDrthtSK-SprUHRq85IT65A8YKvPxVpCac2w2Iwpt5WKzvhFTohtWrTM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW9Qf0W1YMFMIxtzMqKOenBqmLerW_-CGpX_o9DWaXKJw7Hv2BxkY6omSB8EgqCJVuugUL63cTq1yNwkWvdxbgDrthtSK-SprUHRq85IT65A8YKvPxVpCac2w2Iwpt5WKzvhFTohtWrTM/s200/jefflapaztocalama+368.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... fascinating construction techniques utilizing mud-based roofs...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtIk0rjOhjfiF3WB5zk0GHjz7V0kwu8NKKFYyatCBGWdw0Wrb0I3AeCdaxqVMHKDcKtwxSmX_ZpY5AdvcvecGfV1hWlBDl0oXu2I24qLOAefyTcI-kJvd5BGRPmr7K2oCLeQu-USO5yMU/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtIk0rjOhjfiF3WB5zk0GHjz7V0kwu8NKKFYyatCBGWdw0Wrb0I3AeCdaxqVMHKDcKtwxSmX_ZpY5AdvcvecGfV1hWlBDl0oXu2I24qLOAefyTcI-kJvd5BGRPmr7K2oCLeQu-USO5yMU/s200/jefflapaztocalama+367.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG5j1c6I6_dGJeExCPBFtM8UCe4X5CyDWUndO5HUfaJgAL_jojuQQ7i-LbJswy58aBZ77WBce5H5TRSZRz4sFko7ZewdkbDF4R80LAraOaKFO9-RIx3e7rT4T2FTf3am_nqilTgLQmzpA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG5j1c6I6_dGJeExCPBFtM8UCe4X5CyDWUndO5HUfaJgAL_jojuQQ7i-LbJswy58aBZ77WBce5H5TRSZRz4sFko7ZewdkbDF4R80LAraOaKFO9-RIx3e7rT4T2FTf3am_nqilTgLQmzpA/s320/jefflapaztocalama+328.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...this house raises llamas for fur and meat, there were literally hundreds about...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMDnOjQsShjxO4X0ZjX7H3mt1C6psHCNCw85NfWVqpf2XAzIJAkno7aQQWCAW6SAACfThZya67V0AZZNdePuDd8c-5fO8SKb7tNS1W29n_pYisjBJcqz7AlF5nbs9SIDY5waUcaPXx1Lk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMDnOjQsShjxO4X0ZjX7H3mt1C6psHCNCw85NfWVqpf2XAzIJAkno7aQQWCAW6SAACfThZya67V0AZZNdePuDd8c-5fO8SKb7tNS1W29n_pYisjBJcqz7AlF5nbs9SIDY5waUcaPXx1Lk/s200/jefflapaztocalama+330.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn_8_vwHTw2P6nAq8J5yNTPCVGaatYoIsZOn6Sv2tuqC-xZ_TGO8d6gnaZO_dow8R9QXc8tQKdM6acJ9DI5Ven3WlYgYa5EvmqUDOUD8J3d347Ayoa5Thj9oJh_yqoNeUIeIQ60gfre_g/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+370.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn_8_vwHTw2P6nAq8J5yNTPCVGaatYoIsZOn6Sv2tuqC-xZ_TGO8d6gnaZO_dow8R9QXc8tQKdM6acJ9DI5Ven3WlYgYa5EvmqUDOUD8J3d347Ayoa5Thj9oJh_yqoNeUIeIQ60gfre_g/s320/jefflapaztocalama+370.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the dark side of llama raising... tons of llama shit everywhere</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmzTxLNellBKSwrplUF9dQWDO2imjvQbD5rd5FIWvMun2fUcGFL9_uQk1fd8l1yXvYVetEncv3CEOYZL-VgbgviRF6Drliu7MbYQGpmXpWdS4zsFvasnsaZMxb7RfhoVOs7YkA15NBhhk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmzTxLNellBKSwrplUF9dQWDO2imjvQbD5rd5FIWvMun2fUcGFL9_uQk1fd8l1yXvYVetEncv3CEOYZL-VgbgviRF6Drliu7MbYQGpmXpWdS4zsFvasnsaZMxb7RfhoVOs7YkA15NBhhk/s320/jefflapaztocalama+373.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is Volcán Ollague again, from the northwest side. This mountain dominates the whole area.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpziSbYWO_pSThFpFNLCn7q4BU8ibOVeJVfT82Bax2glTNq2t7zfvXXm2tRMbGs3t1l_1lLbNV-Ieptl8LmVaXWO0mtp60oujJ796ZQUfmG-EvKtdEA-FW29doZS3ZnOfc6pWcuqr6z3Y/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpziSbYWO_pSThFpFNLCn7q4BU8ibOVeJVfT82Bax2glTNq2t7zfvXXm2tRMbGs3t1l_1lLbNV-Ieptl8LmVaXWO0mtp60oujJ796ZQUfmG-EvKtdEA-FW29doZS3ZnOfc6pWcuqr6z3Y/s320/jefflapaztocalama+374.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">nearing the border</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkLiZRwgfXajGi6tCrsr04CoLDVgZrHbLmmkw4KB449F6QFHlarqhuM2GzxIKLcbga9Cw8HRsm3K33Ql0XCUrBa9-wUVaInvRfwX0OOT2tyMwBMgblT0gjCf1KJXIPjFce0E443WFZRs/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+375.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkLiZRwgfXajGi6tCrsr04CoLDVgZrHbLmmkw4KB449F6QFHlarqhuM2GzxIKLcbga9Cw8HRsm3K33Ql0XCUrBa9-wUVaInvRfwX0OOT2tyMwBMgblT0gjCf1KJXIPjFce0E443WFZRs/s320/jefflapaztocalama+375.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the Bolivian border post is hardly mentionable; here we are still in Bolivia but this is true no-man's-land and armageddon</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZD0Fg4LBJGsHURwEyVboiFkC5sjV3Q9IhDrxsbmrRwiKZX9WZA5eUEFEoBsnxd6Gnb08F0FCFPDbnak1KX2bH9nK9iaIIsezE84kGh01-7nW-45dC9BGjZP2XSKp-M6tRnUQ0SlCIsbU/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+376.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZD0Fg4LBJGsHURwEyVboiFkC5sjV3Q9IhDrxsbmrRwiKZX9WZA5eUEFEoBsnxd6Gnb08F0FCFPDbnak1KX2bH9nK9iaIIsezE84kGh01-7nW-45dC9BGjZP2XSKp-M6tRnUQ0SlCIsbU/s320/jefflapaztocalama+376.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">arrived in Chile at Ollague, a very small town. The border police housed us, fed us, and aided us innumerably, all the more so as it was Jeff's birthday (December 5) and we arrived dirty, hungry, browbeaten, desperate and without money! The first thing they did in fact, was start giving us apples, bananas, peaches, coffee and tea, etc. etc.. Incredible after so much rugged desert wilderness.</div><br />
Note: we went to the paramedics here in Ollague, and were told that the antibiotics that they had sold us in San Juan, Bolivia were actually for stomach ailments!! (Just one more anecdote from the mystifying and puzzling world of Bolivia). Then we were diagnosed with pharo-laryngitis (complete torture in high altitude desert wilderness, trust us! Jeff lost his voice for over two weeks.) and provided with different antibiotics altogether. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJhxFcMnBYdUXRgCRyL-Kq2zgtFHnW-dgHQqkWI875EOefoydeohdAPQ457hDKHYmpKg-bNSDfy2iPS3_iduWDHaT2WVBnbmeLtp-NeKvJQiD503uxxqXj5k_BR3nmmULmFNJ3NeCTPc/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+377.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJhxFcMnBYdUXRgCRyL-Kq2zgtFHnW-dgHQqkWI875EOefoydeohdAPQ457hDKHYmpKg-bNSDfy2iPS3_iduWDHaT2WVBnbmeLtp-NeKvJQiD503uxxqXj5k_BR3nmmULmFNJ3NeCTPc/s320/jefflapaztocalama+377.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">unfortunately, there is nowhere to get money at either border. We arrived with NOTHING, and facing 190km of pure desert riding with no food and no way to get any without money (big dilemma), not to mention the broken saddle and no replacements available in Ollague, we were forced to hitch with these trucks to Calama and the nearest bank machines. (Note: had we been able to complete the lagunas route, we would have had enough money and food to reach San Pedro de Atacama, Chile without a problem). Those are our bikes in the cargo hold above the oil tanks, one on each truck. The border police arranged these rides for us, thank you!!!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-69683046931481509122011-12-20T13:35:00.001-10:002011-12-20T13:43:28.526-10:00Segment 47: La Paz, Bolivia to Salinas de Garcia Mendoza, Bolivia (November 12 - 26, 2011)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJL4KNgdlNxgd_rpwMWYqAaNUR-o9I6Uk88v8kFtSdsmpeTWYLQ7IxaomptkjnNx6-PjuXKTCHQOtHl6scfH-gMPtSU0LTEhOSoEDDq_8M-VSzv7l4xePPX_aLKZ5ZcraIT-I_aROxnZ8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJL4KNgdlNxgd_rpwMWYqAaNUR-o9I6Uk88v8kFtSdsmpeTWYLQ7IxaomptkjnNx6-PjuXKTCHQOtHl6scfH-gMPtSU0LTEhOSoEDDq_8M-VSzv7l4xePPX_aLKZ5ZcraIT-I_aROxnZ8/s320/jefflapaztocalama+011.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the president of Bolivia, Evo Morales, seen on a billboard while leaving La Paz. The first indigenous president of Bolivia, he is known for socialist leanings. </div><span id="goog_1191627741"></span><span id="goog_1191627742"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia3Ki5OGEc9NL4BVcDCo831Wm4Y1lxYximk9Y88mKGSauKGqzoHslJugloAN1Xvwuz5Y9aWJAjrU8lzGyZPM6XCVwsIqMrcWECzUil0gspZeFXhsNbZIOBfjkrMA89VBlHnzftXtha4XU/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia3Ki5OGEc9NL4BVcDCo831Wm4Y1lxYximk9Y88mKGSauKGqzoHslJugloAN1Xvwuz5Y9aWJAjrU8lzGyZPM6XCVwsIqMrcWECzUil0gspZeFXhsNbZIOBfjkrMA89VBlHnzftXtha4XU/s200/jefflapaztocalama+010.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">not everyone is happy with Evo</div><br />
<div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2U8AJMn9MOtlTqrhvtUZc4jbqzoSmzJqUpfhHwgGFk1uXKuWSuBUlikzBGRI0dk1VPB7wYasN-SBuRztcSbL_OcQd8oBtb2iemrHFhZN0NTfADbsa2MXfJl6BT3NZ9Cpx9ZNhyFtwa04/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2U8AJMn9MOtlTqrhvtUZc4jbqzoSmzJqUpfhHwgGFk1uXKuWSuBUlikzBGRI0dk1VPB7wYasN-SBuRztcSbL_OcQd8oBtb2iemrHFhZN0NTfADbsa2MXfJl6BT3NZ9Cpx9ZNhyFtwa04/s320/jefflapaztocalama+013.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">on the way to Oruro, we witnessed a growing moon</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Dr4HaM1lSzAvOs65tnFAnn0gKeG1qjRiDuRZ4zCSJOiAl-Ap3nCWx39zDWgtIbJAhhjWljUgU2H7a0W0HSxkx19D_jPmwzkDJJar9PVY991R70irr0K4xVgo7OcrcyFIQ8HT0XRm3w8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Dr4HaM1lSzAvOs65tnFAnn0gKeG1qjRiDuRZ4zCSJOiAl-Ap3nCWx39zDWgtIbJAhhjWljUgU2H7a0W0HSxkx19D_jPmwzkDJJar9PVY991R70irr0K4xVgo7OcrcyFIQ8HT0XRm3w8/s320/jefflapaztocalama+014.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is a somewhat typical Bolivian highway-side town</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI67UsfFE3iGsWbFVrJf3WkyWM09v8lm0gG42tUXzSA_0leuvBtSE75q3pYgb3qf7iimPFCjlDlkBbfW6mOas4ZOjLbYZS6-566LLuIEwcqLB0gYD061xwzHbr4KSpWgasHUZzueINvt4/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI67UsfFE3iGsWbFVrJf3WkyWM09v8lm0gG42tUXzSA_0leuvBtSE75q3pYgb3qf7iimPFCjlDlkBbfW6mOas4ZOjLbYZS6-566LLuIEwcqLB0gYD061xwzHbr4KSpWgasHUZzueINvt4/s320/jefflapaztocalama+015.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">long stretches of flat riding, seems like a dream after so much climbing and dropping for so many months</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgx-HNZAYjXPZKqhyM68T3xF1VR89Gy67PbKgv_1OTxIAw3ZbShhMRysBPz9wxdRaMGFFnnpcrd-Z-cIbtNUWtKPT9ozyx5mz6rWZ9vwltKN-_AODayefTcMfXNCuPqoouFPUkTVKJwsA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgx-HNZAYjXPZKqhyM68T3xF1VR89Gy67PbKgv_1OTxIAw3ZbShhMRysBPz9wxdRaMGFFnnpcrd-Z-cIbtNUWtKPT9ozyx5mz6rWZ9vwltKN-_AODayefTcMfXNCuPqoouFPUkTVKJwsA/s320/jefflapaztocalama+017.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">getting closer to Oruro</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXzRG_CvyJTPRDVpIoWVXDK5mAaEKmrpTjYaoDKnLJmkC60JRJTeH8la7xT4Y4kCPoDf0HMjVY0q8jwKX4yWNSq8mEObKUU1hlhyphenhyphenEqj1_Wky16hGlMH88ccCNrBMSMXxKU-lN9TqYT_gg/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXzRG_CvyJTPRDVpIoWVXDK5mAaEKmrpTjYaoDKnLJmkC60JRJTeH8la7xT4Y4kCPoDf0HMjVY0q8jwKX4yWNSq8mEObKUU1hlhyphenhyphenEqj1_Wky16hGlMH88ccCNrBMSMXxKU-lN9TqYT_gg/s320/jefflapaztocalama+019.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>roadside vicuñas, camelid relatives of llamas and alpacas, but not domesticated<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpSGHNASDMTZh34S91_HWHsepCzJtq4bDd50myll7N3p7NbUMwtHhzdXUHREjVZEFof08qZhwZsIGNeu8i_63dPHRprC_Q5RxUol0cxgNuWHIs15u3AxWbxwGFWfB4-f5XgZUMAD5Af3U/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpSGHNASDMTZh34S91_HWHsepCzJtq4bDd50myll7N3p7NbUMwtHhzdXUHREjVZEFof08qZhwZsIGNeu8i_63dPHRprC_Q5RxUol0cxgNuWHIs15u3AxWbxwGFWfB4-f5XgZUMAD5Af3U/s320/jefflapaztocalama+021.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the outskirts of Oruro</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJMBX_eOk3KI2IIKnVleGSZhwWajhBvWV5UcgbYF267Id_-MU6NpXZJTutaJpM-qcksjz8IaRoieyYbhmgSY296s1FIsMF8AepsHDL-Fjx462CvPjbxtApYg6du7RrgLT1Fb6sJi-StYU/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJMBX_eOk3KI2IIKnVleGSZhwWajhBvWV5UcgbYF267Id_-MU6NpXZJTutaJpM-qcksjz8IaRoieyYbhmgSY296s1FIsMF8AepsHDL-Fjx462CvPjbxtApYg6du7RrgLT1Fb6sJi-StYU/s400/jefflapaztocalama+023.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Oruro as seen from some cliffs above the city</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpRTF5JCu_sFzGjiUfzj-3S5pbB7mroATSO8NxBCgRpFnPWjtiscbjA6fu59CAjmg87HUt4u5Ts5EDUqnm_ulEzL4XR6FUDcdkBYV13f_92K78PF24MfOrRcQJqnpjUm-bYfs3vLx1ol8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpRTF5JCu_sFzGjiUfzj-3S5pbB7mroATSO8NxBCgRpFnPWjtiscbjA6fu59CAjmg87HUt4u5Ts5EDUqnm_ulEzL4XR6FUDcdkBYV13f_92K78PF24MfOrRcQJqnpjUm-bYfs3vLx1ol8/s400/jefflapaztocalama+030.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">wild sunset above Oruro</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4waf_0fmhd3pitZMB5uQjYtlfREGErIrVSjPO9Ds4CtTt5_lv90F0WDfQYd_MI7bnXdtTs8mhSTQ6sM0VtT8T-XFb0lyyfB5OaAisOValppZ10ujkv09D6w-QXsdEQmg0rlXlizvMlJk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4waf_0fmhd3pitZMB5uQjYtlfREGErIrVSjPO9Ds4CtTt5_lv90F0WDfQYd_MI7bnXdtTs8mhSTQ6sM0VtT8T-XFb0lyyfB5OaAisOValppZ10ujkv09D6w-QXsdEQmg0rlXlizvMlJk/s200/jefflapaztocalama+036.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The sign says: "Long live Oruro and its general strike!". Yes, we had the dismal luck to be in Oruro during a 72 hour-plus general strike. This is particular to Bolivia it seems... its called "paro", and local communities do this as political statements. Everything shuts down, all roads are blockaded, the streets are empty,and you can barely find enough food to eat. A cyclist's nightmare, really.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZ0Rd4Csm89TARlDdQWqONEU7ZBx6Rb391WjKwhoOQ7KCb6K1PslvK6HTIuv0QeuVyFlUZ16ui2jX2YG-7I5xby7RNKewLmbzSDEvla0B_q1DWKHD7OsfUe3me4ptAYGx-PlJ3RnYKmw/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZ0Rd4Csm89TARlDdQWqONEU7ZBx6Rb391WjKwhoOQ7KCb6K1PslvK6HTIuv0QeuVyFlUZ16ui2jX2YG-7I5xby7RNKewLmbzSDEvla0B_q1DWKHD7OsfUe3me4ptAYGx-PlJ3RnYKmw/s320/jefflapaztocalama+039.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">demonic painting seen in Oruro's main church</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd2b-sMFA1NDksNi6Zqh6hLQIHLEIvvRaFTz2SX9XtDBi7IIVP9WKfDocL2Ouh7bdKuN7m8ZMgrzgOEc7EH_3ANi5_zQg24LOTrt7mpWjn4r95Q6XYn_7maZc8hD88647qI3Jzk9qyJZQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd2b-sMFA1NDksNi6Zqh6hLQIHLEIvvRaFTz2SX9XtDBi7IIVP9WKfDocL2Ouh7bdKuN7m8ZMgrzgOEc7EH_3ANi5_zQg24LOTrt7mpWjn4r95Q6XYn_7maZc8hD88647qI3Jzk9qyJZQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+046.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Oruro returns to life after the strike, thankfully, as we have to buy various provisions for the long desert stretches ahead of us...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2xUPxQid34n026gjNU-00xeL_7R6ABiL3ZVR7dH-V9FQEt-zaljKoxg4IPP9Jl9le2SkGruRcPA1h83yLtAeM_zOaHBx5jW-PlaiykzqOx2lVlfDJKH33jwAPzEDSjMM8vpsBEJc8oQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu2xUPxQid34n026gjNU-00xeL_7R6ABiL3ZVR7dH-V9FQEt-zaljKoxg4IPP9Jl9le2SkGruRcPA1h83yLtAeM_zOaHBx5jW-PlaiykzqOx2lVlfDJKH33jwAPzEDSjMM8vpsBEJc8oQ/s200/jefflapaztocalama+043.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div>... buying coca leaves, known to remove effects of altitude sickness, fatigue, and hunger...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOo8dbQaiHhTDetQfSKDRzcIiGaly7QZK7xURjhxLhwHLLS5KYm53o31w-CLkZLgNwSEf4WqUqkgBqGxfst6MguQYUZKu1cuggyLRHhkEO3zvgfiXa6E4hFoonY-kuK8kBJl-kWfVqaT8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOo8dbQaiHhTDetQfSKDRzcIiGaly7QZK7xURjhxLhwHLLS5KYm53o31w-CLkZLgNwSEf4WqUqkgBqGxfst6MguQYUZKu1cuggyLRHhkEO3zvgfiXa6E4hFoonY-kuK8kBJl-kWfVqaT8/s200/jefflapaztocalama+042.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcBjUc3763yiA6weHTCeg0JHNny2Sn942o-U_J8MUvxBIZtXaaxEx2vwbwdLx-OPp4U8vS_0UkVB2qHwnQ49hD1p8n50oNJSpqhbMzDrEkJGE2e_6HaoaxuZXh0TiqasNFjqYfAgXFFrE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcBjUc3763yiA6weHTCeg0JHNny2Sn942o-U_J8MUvxBIZtXaaxEx2vwbwdLx-OPp4U8vS_0UkVB2qHwnQ49hD1p8n50oNJSpqhbMzDrEkJGE2e_6HaoaxuZXh0TiqasNFjqYfAgXFFrE/s320/jefflapaztocalama+045.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">buying grain alcohol (stove fuel) in bulk. Apparently Bolivians just drink this stuff.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2qeZUfEbq9Tamn0Chv-Ub_nCQi2LTq76EKbNnBwQ6up6l-kNVyPg6ipJRma23J0j-i8-k0q9UqRHFxXz8duvr-yzMlOtcr8cnmek_AqvWL4CBvO7QsegGEb_ZXa3qlkNM8QryXr1zkqc/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2qeZUfEbq9Tamn0Chv-Ub_nCQi2LTq76EKbNnBwQ6up6l-kNVyPg6ipJRma23J0j-i8-k0q9UqRHFxXz8duvr-yzMlOtcr8cnmek_AqvWL4CBvO7QsegGEb_ZXa3qlkNM8QryXr1zkqc/s320/jefflapaztocalama+048.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we discovered this armadillo-back chirongo (!) while guitar shopping in Oruro</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqAR2bE9Jlxg1s6rzoV5iijLyVYbhRTrauY93UwJee-23yT2-qMnuhJ87VWzqrdUf-BDJ1EVKuE6Rp2twYY1urljW43sYS8CYBgFVkWZuHeYmcLOddm1xbpyB_r2F0-tHvu6DrKJrjUa8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqAR2bE9Jlxg1s6rzoV5iijLyVYbhRTrauY93UwJee-23yT2-qMnuhJ87VWzqrdUf-BDJ1EVKuE6Rp2twYY1urljW43sYS8CYBgFVkWZuHeYmcLOddm1xbpyB_r2F0-tHvu6DrKJrjUa8/s320/jefflapaztocalama+049.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this would tax anyone's problem solving abilities. How to get all this onto a bicycle?</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhedBpOg1BQ6gE8-QOds6VTcGoBHbYO9jpeyqDizkyzhFe4z0cgykpyMq7hQuDbhP_bsyUmE3cM14WO61OcWQ_DjVvEoi1rFpRAMNvp6sfqZyQOR5H___VjTawmyZG2P5qAT9EADTWvgjk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhedBpOg1BQ6gE8-QOds6VTcGoBHbYO9jpeyqDizkyzhFe4z0cgykpyMq7hQuDbhP_bsyUmE3cM14WO61OcWQ_DjVvEoi1rFpRAMNvp6sfqZyQOR5H___VjTawmyZG2P5qAT9EADTWvgjk/s320/jefflapaztocalama+054.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">fresh-squeezed orange juice vendor </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicextJUgJLUFDKhYOH3Ox_BcVVUfSXDqRPWvbME-PCpW3h_Z4kwXI-gDHP19xB8D4pSoljOk2tHum2MfEXP-NxO46YyZnvMwuCTxwk2jU51gDu2sZlEzhZ78uXqF0OExd9-JCp-gAmTf8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicextJUgJLUFDKhYOH3Ox_BcVVUfSXDqRPWvbME-PCpW3h_Z4kwXI-gDHP19xB8D4pSoljOk2tHum2MfEXP-NxO46YyZnvMwuCTxwk2jU51gDu2sZlEzhZ78uXqF0OExd9-JCp-gAmTf8/s320/jefflapaztocalama+057.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>Tom and Jeff ready for battle<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwD_BtDrIAnnYGlIsVFGkmEohDONBvkgQhvLSN3Uc3vwu51hC25N-FcExwHnbrdMixNLhFUi8actcatxtpfTYxFYWRVcrihVw8rm9oAQoHNsvUiYxXGwPxUZ-JAliw2Tg0HEbZksgWJzE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwD_BtDrIAnnYGlIsVFGkmEohDONBvkgQhvLSN3Uc3vwu51hC25N-FcExwHnbrdMixNLhFUi8actcatxtpfTYxFYWRVcrihVw8rm9oAQoHNsvUiYxXGwPxUZ-JAliw2Tg0HEbZksgWJzE/s320/jefflapaztocalama+231.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the route we would follow from Oruro to Salinas</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK-iykfgJylh3xGQzVzPGpXOznJBuqiw_0mfZxSKHdRH_WqC8rZlLCCskoUlVXNzTFOR6HTLGr6TDejbsKucAXW439GysQIqpSOWKW9WuPimlvjgoMtiFTt5JUaeaftjbvMtAx5sPZvVE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK-iykfgJylh3xGQzVzPGpXOznJBuqiw_0mfZxSKHdRH_WqC8rZlLCCskoUlVXNzTFOR6HTLGr6TDejbsKucAXW439GysQIqpSOWKW9WuPimlvjgoMtiFTt5JUaeaftjbvMtAx5sPZvVE/s320/jefflapaztocalama+058.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">ominous omen leaving Oruro, there is a dead dog in this pile of garbage. Bolivia seems to have its fair share of scenes like this one.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-lNggP2DP7y_xTImSN2A4zjxMxPx2nX_1l6Ptst7cFlZ0wAXflsU5qB7Fnjqqpr8oYs0SvRsReHrx47lKiPirRgP1CU7wOg9d-RsDlLciE5-LlMDBZTeIxQ_E9iHbOPrWjdqS9S_JKk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih-lNggP2DP7y_xTImSN2A4zjxMxPx2nX_1l6Ptst7cFlZ0wAXflsU5qB7Fnjqqpr8oYs0SvRsReHrx47lKiPirRgP1CU7wOg9d-RsDlLciE5-LlMDBZTeIxQ_E9iHbOPrWjdqS9S_JKk/s320/jefflapaztocalama+059.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>hitting the open road again, with an absurdly heavy bike<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqkwcc5rBgZka11aMKIcnHjIOvKogoaG4p67PJXrpofJunhOmnCYh3EOxUK_JGLmj9-QaegXsGmUB-ONmeNxAzhI2WIHP5_d1RCm8X7QKbfkhjykvl-1zodmV9a6oMmvjPvQeZi07gJY/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqkwcc5rBgZka11aMKIcnHjIOvKogoaG4p67PJXrpofJunhOmnCYh3EOxUK_JGLmj9-QaegXsGmUB-ONmeNxAzhI2WIHP5_d1RCm8X7QKbfkhjykvl-1zodmV9a6oMmvjPvQeZi07gJY/s320/jefflapaztocalama+068.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>...shortly out of Oruro we ran into flamingoes...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3uDj95UaQlQGD1lqr0J9W-KlVSAZiytJRDkFUfUrI36MAqsYAf691lt_m6N6aYDkbnLn28WebVWzEzazh6UroAXO2RZN_LpbaVFKsIBxio_nGHs5Bney__-yMVt5dNJ69dZjlj51KejU/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3uDj95UaQlQGD1lqr0J9W-KlVSAZiytJRDkFUfUrI36MAqsYAf691lt_m6N6aYDkbnLn28WebVWzEzazh6UroAXO2RZN_LpbaVFKsIBxio_nGHs5Bney__-yMVt5dNJ69dZjlj51KejU/s320/jefflapaztocalama+070.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8RvpzfBJZLWZ4EX1wJ0Rr0ga0i4JPrTr-JEyi-mX_nELtE3aF8-qChwsj3b9wVl1xJGPcWUxsaLR0HSsq52Wd6Msi5qOC26KaOm0TTltLgKeykkys3U0vZQKIag-Wx2g122Twa_9hQo8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8RvpzfBJZLWZ4EX1wJ0Rr0ga0i4JPrTr-JEyi-mX_nELtE3aF8-qChwsj3b9wVl1xJGPcWUxsaLR0HSsq52Wd6Msi5qOC26KaOm0TTltLgKeykkys3U0vZQKIag-Wx2g122Twa_9hQo8/s200/jefflapaztocalama+074.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">of course the flamingoes only add to the surreal nature of this journey</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxgS6m-hDUcbJGgLMFgdXafws-_gPv46BUlHDcDbLGQnYtB9H9gzHS3_SaJGzE3m-AL_Hj9WkrlloOXHMGaBI11tdIRHmuqwT1O3xH_CDVanBHJqKkrXu-Xt9A8yVnvGzwMLUgIGMYwk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxgS6m-hDUcbJGgLMFgdXafws-_gPv46BUlHDcDbLGQnYtB9H9gzHS3_SaJGzE3m-AL_Hj9WkrlloOXHMGaBI11tdIRHmuqwT1O3xH_CDVanBHJqKkrXu-Xt9A8yVnvGzwMLUgIGMYwk/s320/jefflapaztocalama+073.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>... surely one of the best parts of cycling in Bolivia is its abundance of abandoned houses, leaving you to wonder where everyone went (answer: mass migration to cities, which explains their hygienic problems and overall chaos). These "casas abandonadas" make for great camping, with windbreaks and often walls and roofs as well. This one came with firewood in the yard, too.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCIRpOhxI9Cax4YNxoTTvT8P5CafPSkn_9gRooLsLauWdP6vVTZrXI0-LBYEHkGjhtrw5VtOmYofNutVpb8xA19hK-TQEPfOhTrz43v0yp9sCB-cGk57ub-5FpAMTi8LVur3K0LSXkIKc/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCIRpOhxI9Cax4YNxoTTvT8P5CafPSkn_9gRooLsLauWdP6vVTZrXI0-LBYEHkGjhtrw5VtOmYofNutVpb8xA19hK-TQEPfOhTrz43v0yp9sCB-cGk57ub-5FpAMTi8LVur3K0LSXkIKc/s320/jefflapaztocalama+078.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSaQFwUn4wbdEverOUCLpxSzt9x7PvWcf7CE8PaRVr5xkspAlnhG-Ka0jbhyphenhyphenWy3OkMmMkq_pArCnb2RnPdJEpdDLbFJ_ANkBCjiHgxR2vaqyrPkIfsmPyIzQHvZnFBay5A1A7l5MAyTVA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSaQFwUn4wbdEverOUCLpxSzt9x7PvWcf7CE8PaRVr5xkspAlnhG-Ka0jbhyphenhyphenWy3OkMmMkq_pArCnb2RnPdJEpdDLbFJ_ANkBCjiHgxR2vaqyrPkIfsmPyIzQHvZnFBay5A1A7l5MAyTVA/s320/jefflapaztocalama+084.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>... our digs for an evening and a morning...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRTvgWqSjNUMQpb-ycWCSNqEvzaMT9bdZpGRZTvZqDB0BQTVd5cuOSPPM8AY_aJq7RpXawrVwFYoW75KqELlZKs4a4iZmSwoAdluqDkHJnUP3aEu-qAdjGJtPTktKXC-JsnQi44aCUK6w/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRTvgWqSjNUMQpb-ycWCSNqEvzaMT9bdZpGRZTvZqDB0BQTVd5cuOSPPM8AY_aJq7RpXawrVwFYoW75KqELlZKs4a4iZmSwoAdluqDkHJnUP3aEu-qAdjGJtPTktKXC-JsnQi44aCUK6w/s320/jefflapaztocalama+083.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqv30URlbB0zvM4PfbCC6QGIy1poVsXhDb2sK-ZooJ2hik4JN035Fc1FEu_gsr0uehCWHHIFCn85jl-y4PGr6sA3Ai9McbFEr83pIBaA2JW7A63IYxSwL-xgGhxWy3TS51lMx4yN3dNpE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqv30URlbB0zvM4PfbCC6QGIy1poVsXhDb2sK-ZooJ2hik4JN035Fc1FEu_gsr0uehCWHHIFCn85jl-y4PGr6sA3Ai9McbFEr83pIBaA2JW7A63IYxSwL-xgGhxWy3TS51lMx4yN3dNpE/s200/jefflapaztocalama+081.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYQpXiHL-_QrsjtYqleif7y5kx6my-hvm9vczgdCLMor1cDq_GhNrF8TJkxJ4J_E2MrIj4tmpZQP1ztek2sayp3OaMDZqhaMNGXUdMMGePn6UKLE2FGCGCPePN3I72AsXfi-2UGvlXG8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYQpXiHL-_QrsjtYqleif7y5kx6my-hvm9vczgdCLMor1cDq_GhNrF8TJkxJ4J_E2MrIj4tmpZQP1ztek2sayp3OaMDZqhaMNGXUdMMGePn6UKLE2FGCGCPePN3I72AsXfi-2UGvlXG8/s200/jefflapaztocalama+082.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrplxuJcBMPCQQc7QEQ1gKpuNZoC-bB_dU0cOL6TRabnUIIzj439Xov5ow38N5r3iJCQt3zCAlqnJpERDoqiMK5FyQ7AsyxPGYSj2_J6WzgzcJPGkRp6lliNYmq6cJ92S1HiHQs8tTGc/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrplxuJcBMPCQQc7QEQ1gKpuNZoC-bB_dU0cOL6TRabnUIIzj439Xov5ow38N5r3iJCQt3zCAlqnJpERDoqiMK5FyQ7AsyxPGYSj2_J6WzgzcJPGkRp6lliNYmq6cJ92S1HiHQs8tTGc/s320/jefflapaztocalama+085.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>...Toledo, which should be a decent town, but instead resembles a ghost town...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ZboWp_54y-VG4FhdCcuk9j0WcWlWcjB13RFUYGZR3XfJV-m9CO_qjWp7RzsO8U2P5KaIXp0T_yTmVG7dUOF_m-qGKiXVCv8iiMfJ4U9BH-IuF14SdX91QltGVSkgcRsambdaNjCYhLM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ZboWp_54y-VG4FhdCcuk9j0WcWlWcjB13RFUYGZR3XfJV-m9CO_qjWp7RzsO8U2P5KaIXp0T_yTmVG7dUOF_m-qGKiXVCv8iiMfJ4U9BH-IuF14SdX91QltGVSkgcRsambdaNjCYhLM/s320/jefflapaztocalama+086.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrXEA2pthQZLXr6JWdaNHviDU2aNxIjQbuRm9qxg7-3ti6FoaVse3ahMtqV5zZe_ZZhP0fY5Rj8I6kgmTp6BozUnljaDdrSRNCHON6pxZbijNbZSJKPNr2wAwXUr7OatQTj6h7dBqWkKM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrXEA2pthQZLXr6JWdaNHviDU2aNxIjQbuRm9qxg7-3ti6FoaVse3ahMtqV5zZe_ZZhP0fY5Rj8I6kgmTp6BozUnljaDdrSRNCHON6pxZbijNbZSJKPNr2wAwXUr7OatQTj6h7dBqWkKM/s320/jefflapaztocalama+087.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBr5h_NOrVXBqyyF40NGhNSGsXAyHYebTgzeCF2bTRZQ-txrtK-YNU0cHMpLPXK6HjrK9cNFxYhcXffsAYRgi3-ZIxgqVB_JxkoA_zUt1_7TmUU1Bqhz9bCHpggLf-a-otfiUUmttAb3M/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBr5h_NOrVXBqyyF40NGhNSGsXAyHYebTgzeCF2bTRZQ-txrtK-YNU0cHMpLPXK6HjrK9cNFxYhcXffsAYRgi3-ZIxgqVB_JxkoA_zUt1_7TmUU1Bqhz9bCHpggLf-a-otfiUUmttAb3M/s320/jefflapaztocalama+097.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this sign, at the entrance to a nearby village, reads: "Warning: all thieves will be burned!" </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFL99jFaTADfEHJsDp7pOVsUx1WSHG6bYgFhfMiLd7ZDl3CN8gMbcJjGa33C-O8i1i3WCxQof1S-UC-lU9i1XqnN7u2Ar8E5lenFLzhcQ1FjLyH7dNpvrkCbxbyqFa27VrYSGzFiIqag8/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFL99jFaTADfEHJsDp7pOVsUx1WSHG6bYgFhfMiLd7ZDl3CN8gMbcJjGa33C-O8i1i3WCxQof1S-UC-lU9i1XqnN7u2Ar8E5lenFLzhcQ1FjLyH7dNpvrkCbxbyqFa27VrYSGzFiIqag8/s320/jefflapaztocalama+100.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a hailstorm forced us off the road at this ghost town, whose only inhabitant seemed to be this guy (turns out a few people do live here)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyqmhbiDzK-DGaV9stgvpALn9TIDHPCPJWeCYNuM0rE9RS9RAEtUkXVOgrbADfOkt4hY-OpBi6PuwNzSiQ5dzw6_2W9mSCBdphJCTPJw_1zccCaEO2P3ibaLNy84oFOfXytf5N0VX66eA/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyqmhbiDzK-DGaV9stgvpALn9TIDHPCPJWeCYNuM0rE9RS9RAEtUkXVOgrbADfOkt4hY-OpBi6PuwNzSiQ5dzw6_2W9mSCBdphJCTPJw_1zccCaEO2P3ibaLNy84oFOfXytf5N0VX66eA/s400/jefflapaztocalama+102.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div>... we didnt realize at this moment that this would be the last green we would see for about a month<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYQZC013CWeB5c9aU7LwjfSYL1_hy14SI6F9AxnPQDufLiiWyun8chjlSMin8HJ6-xeF6G2a9x3RAtY3Oxqn6IYK7jThBsJ6BnBsiL1Xpej6jKdGQc4BBux64PclSWxqY8d4nUiIXdWhg/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYQZC013CWeB5c9aU7LwjfSYL1_hy14SI6F9AxnPQDufLiiWyun8chjlSMin8HJ6-xeF6G2a9x3RAtY3Oxqn6IYK7jThBsJ6BnBsiL1Xpej6jKdGQc4BBux64PclSWxqY8d4nUiIXdWhg/s320/jefflapaztocalama+106.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>... some roadside llamas...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zK8nxBjCIDGDudABz-jo1W6y275D-YRy11wkqSa8zYFgZ_vYzs96iViSaOjjdgJrq3545Xb2uB5yMljQJO8J2Bv_b6S-GQLEwHkk49vRmi-mf_awPGd50HKKnb2Pz9zsJiDJeaT2dJQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zK8nxBjCIDGDudABz-jo1W6y275D-YRy11wkqSa8zYFgZ_vYzs96iViSaOjjdgJrq3545Xb2uB5yMljQJO8J2Bv_b6S-GQLEwHkk49vRmi-mf_awPGd50HKKnb2Pz9zsJiDJeaT2dJQ/s200/jefflapaztocalama+110.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2VWzx4PJMjE7PYhT6jBuRxpG2B5-NIMhcz1kEUe9SAJXP_4WktTpFjdEXzpe-AuYv0TeUGir5jlp8iQ2kSGN7sIurx81QDpAHw2H9oDFj9GMj6J4wKpotQEHmurnXkEDyZ-hCudxB8AY/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2VWzx4PJMjE7PYhT6jBuRxpG2B5-NIMhcz1kEUe9SAJXP_4WktTpFjdEXzpe-AuYv0TeUGir5jlp8iQ2kSGN7sIurx81QDpAHw2H9oDFj9GMj6J4wKpotQEHmurnXkEDyZ-hCudxB8AY/s320/jefflapaztocalama+112.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>mixed paved/dirt riding towards the cordillera<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoJiLbk6b5XvdZkGwkHgnL5mOe_29rIQHIFRd8KiNXFDaSd9dr3eb_ygJnfDOcKAG7Kns82omAg6VGxkXm4TNin4qtws3EvFstqpd9amuvz5G_PXjGLT46GzlFekGy2pKRQl8gn8nRcOs/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoJiLbk6b5XvdZkGwkHgnL5mOe_29rIQHIFRd8KiNXFDaSd9dr3eb_ygJnfDOcKAG7Kns82omAg6VGxkXm4TNin4qtws3EvFstqpd9amuvz5G_PXjGLT46GzlFekGy2pKRQl8gn8nRcOs/s400/jefflapaztocalama+114.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">an enormous herd of llamas backed by snowy peaks</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGQ5PfDzpRjnIZ0_gwnCslbdcCcoGYH0zsJOIpGL_tiLckNgdSzA6XlDDs7-l5f6faoUb58oylvBm7THJnb-n4z0Y62uDu9pvf-tLaTXgJ0IGpSP4PMjcZY8BMxdD1rpoPT70qPHKmGFI/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGQ5PfDzpRjnIZ0_gwnCslbdcCcoGYH0zsJOIpGL_tiLckNgdSzA6XlDDs7-l5f6faoUb58oylvBm7THJnb-n4z0Y62uDu9pvf-tLaTXgJ0IGpSP4PMjcZY8BMxdD1rpoPT70qPHKmGFI/s320/jefflapaztocalama+116.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">arrvied at Huachacalla, but everything is closed (Sunday). This is typical of Bolivia: either you cycle hours upon hours thinking you will arrive somewhere with some kind of service (lunch, shop, shade, etc.) but more often than not its a ghost town, or a populated town that is deserted and closed up anyway.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMAAKexayPZWR1y4-bwj5-GQzDm9J26Yn-U94wF49j1f1QV-30Wy8TfLS3xLL26zURTgs_WrR4A39s4FiYK3ofXYe-hZObT8jNPkeF3X1KWOa89RNMNtMPOSWFNPC-5-ub0jFbdHN2D0/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggMAAKexayPZWR1y4-bwj5-GQzDm9J26Yn-U94wF49j1f1QV-30Wy8TfLS3xLL26zURTgs_WrR4A39s4FiYK3ofXYe-hZObT8jNPkeF3X1KWOa89RNMNtMPOSWFNPC-5-ub0jFbdHN2D0/s320/jefflapaztocalama+118.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>friendly local in Huachacalla<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfpKZ8-QbDiYx9VXzS9h7QeBTDXukoVd32udjdwT2ex37T3d3N9phxSYv6QaJ1ajoaT2YzMUOA6u2of6LuQYj2cMvkMjLscBvpUGDdPhynfIOrXgpWPm4xnb5PmrKUBIJ-P4veCLp5tds/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfpKZ8-QbDiYx9VXzS9h7QeBTDXukoVd32udjdwT2ex37T3d3N9phxSYv6QaJ1ajoaT2YzMUOA6u2of6LuQYj2cMvkMjLscBvpUGDdPhynfIOrXgpWPm4xnb5PmrKUBIJ-P4veCLp5tds/s320/jefflapaztocalama+119.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>a local man in Huachacalla told us we could sleep in his "casa abandonada" up the hill, so we arrived here in late afternoon and spent the night.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OG4fajN1TYjh6jSD6FRfL0YnWpf92AOk8B40uuf1jJEDa3Oc7m-b4nw_fRCfYtaAMFAuHerp0HcygnTLy8BnNaZGjbXJaAESUeM82gc_qpl7hlWf2aBvd3gc393gJdJMiSQxUmyzjEM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OG4fajN1TYjh6jSD6FRfL0YnWpf92AOk8B40uuf1jJEDa3Oc7m-b4nw_fRCfYtaAMFAuHerp0HcygnTLy8BnNaZGjbXJaAESUeM82gc_qpl7hlWf2aBvd3gc393gJdJMiSQxUmyzjEM/s320/jefflapaztocalama+122.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>... this cat witnessed some serious guitar playing from the window...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGIX9Z-m40AFFw-qCyaaqMN5wSO6iKuufSOb8Ks2pglOFNaDqzMqDAMN91tmfGt5vyqAexxVtQ6Yvy9ZxfLrboT8YHAycOHTUpY8KEEZQRwPtF-L3mFdD7SnUc_KIkmhXKZupyPbryEQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGIX9Z-m40AFFw-qCyaaqMN5wSO6iKuufSOb8Ks2pglOFNaDqzMqDAMN91tmfGt5vyqAexxVtQ6Yvy9ZxfLrboT8YHAycOHTUpY8KEEZQRwPtF-L3mFdD7SnUc_KIkmhXKZupyPbryEQ/s200/jefflapaztocalama+124.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnW_04UO0LGJlDraOk0CpYS_dBgFtsYhbpj-Z_mJSWiYGyIwPGyXdJrIoW1I0xX7rIkj-5UeJc4icaVNszItG2SVekxi98xwwo9yLrUK-CvIob1jprsbSbMyzBKVL2pJggVigRmBS4ox0/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnW_04UO0LGJlDraOk0CpYS_dBgFtsYhbpj-Z_mJSWiYGyIwPGyXdJrIoW1I0xX7rIkj-5UeJc4icaVNszItG2SVekxi98xwwo9yLrUK-CvIob1jprsbSbMyzBKVL2pJggVigRmBS4ox0/s400/jefflapaztocalama+126.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is Sajama, highest peak in Bolivia at 6500m-plus</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7dRkZbyDlKzBKFFrzbuxaSAIGhsBKnLRrOFKbIQ05oxIjj5ij1lEroLOHqVDXjq9fN_98C2fRGobeNozaPj4FcE9MH99tc_OeTboxtZiKU_pXzO7GXFR4HMsMtOxPMxlWenLGJWjPndE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7dRkZbyDlKzBKFFrzbuxaSAIGhsBKnLRrOFKbIQ05oxIjj5ij1lEroLOHqVDXjq9fN_98C2fRGobeNozaPj4FcE9MH99tc_OeTboxtZiKU_pXzO7GXFR4HMsMtOxPMxlWenLGJWjPndE/s320/jefflapaztocalama+128.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">great wide-open landscapes here</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGN_w0sF3zagIwlkew1hWSuxxGLbQhvO529rm6TQ0litJqHXunJdf_Wp8XoxFSiU5JyXJM8wK-9-nq2Cj0MwWzGLLgisSNup8d-bqJCJ9ofHqAM45lBIon93VodFABSI4q9cxCPj7OnIw/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGN_w0sF3zagIwlkew1hWSuxxGLbQhvO529rm6TQ0litJqHXunJdf_Wp8XoxFSiU5JyXJM8wK-9-nq2Cj0MwWzGLLgisSNup8d-bqJCJ9ofHqAM45lBIon93VodFABSI4q9cxCPj7OnIw/s320/jefflapaztocalama+130.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">more llamas</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9LnE0aqQZvx358HzmnKr2qFleHi6aDvDUj5NZxOcPm0FvuFD-5ROfNLRYU9HWZMe_FkELbnsON3WKJuWX73HOJj9nFc8BkDmzSsYceO6aF0CdG0_XGj5uxWa3gMKZeeoExlr71ieq-Ms/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9LnE0aqQZvx358HzmnKr2qFleHi6aDvDUj5NZxOcPm0FvuFD-5ROfNLRYU9HWZMe_FkELbnsON3WKJuWX73HOJj9nFc8BkDmzSsYceO6aF0CdG0_XGj5uxWa3gMKZeeoExlr71ieq-Ms/s320/jefflapaztocalama+131.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>Sabaya, our last hope for supplies before hitting the salares (salt flats)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2a3p1CCwCCB0XsfYUVxFf8HL9kFK2qeRKjiT3fBvxiXcLh-yrFfhLJ_wM_bijizk2HEeRK3XNnIGS_GrEltLxTgTkD-elDt6UOMEnIq5rBk47kFs_Trr2OAykjJMt_6eg1bumnHZMl0Q/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2a3p1CCwCCB0XsfYUVxFf8HL9kFK2qeRKjiT3fBvxiXcLh-yrFfhLJ_wM_bijizk2HEeRK3XNnIGS_GrEltLxTgTkD-elDt6UOMEnIq5rBk47kFs_Trr2OAykjJMt_6eg1bumnHZMl0Q/s200/jefflapaztocalama+132.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">of course, ghost townish as ever. We do however, manage to find bread, water, and some vegetables (turnips and carrots) in Sabaya, as well as bananas (like gold out here)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwLHrguBeU9OfDHkOzMOWX4L3OqAt-maGCvMcSwgixveSBpdeiIlMr8_XDxT56h684-uCzr3uRplaPowLrHDVi2Ai6zo0tsO4_n3gc3w4zugvQpt17Op_EKIFsF5t28wtAKAmT6JILHSw/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwLHrguBeU9OfDHkOzMOWX4L3OqAt-maGCvMcSwgixveSBpdeiIlMr8_XDxT56h684-uCzr3uRplaPowLrHDVi2Ai6zo0tsO4_n3gc3w4zugvQpt17Op_EKIFsF5t28wtAKAmT6JILHSw/s320/jefflapaztocalama+133.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">llamas on the highway</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1gKzOhBEz0r1nrGeNDhkt5ptF55kEQsbD8CId-qOuvn9QfPCE2UmD8xEzDBwskpRrzy2z2syKvVc8XrSkPkwhEQwWGg59SK5Sfw54emp3m5lMATak3Y1iO67FF0dwt7tp8q2f2IObZGY/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1gKzOhBEz0r1nrGeNDhkt5ptF55kEQsbD8CId-qOuvn9QfPCE2UmD8xEzDBwskpRrzy2z2syKvVc8XrSkPkwhEQwWGg59SK5Sfw54emp3m5lMATak3Y1iO67FF0dwt7tp8q2f2IObZGY/s400/jefflapaztocalama+136.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">now on dirt, surface of fate for the next several weeks (along with sand)... this is our first view of the Salar de Coipasa</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLQ99JRCVYVvR-Jw1O4ggTsFkTlfG9NcfKz6sNzc3EmgQ_q9_9fAlSRfBlHDfhPWOYx2S26j4ubH62lfUms_0Kd61GJTDUjIRMFdMgUc0STgz0wOz6Q2San358e0sjnyitCwm5JfObgTM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLQ99JRCVYVvR-Jw1O4ggTsFkTlfG9NcfKz6sNzc3EmgQ_q9_9fAlSRfBlHDfhPWOYx2S26j4ubH62lfUms_0Kd61GJTDUjIRMFdMgUc0STgz0wOz6Q2San358e0sjnyitCwm5JfObgTM/s320/jefflapaztocalama+138.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Villa Vitalina as seen from the salt flats</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_u2TAMzfm3gmXsVM6lAjiQFACaAD9D-57zENQEAznBqpQExPJ9iMJJivTcBkfQ2aKt3-0YYHNHljpvBO68ejmtNlA1e5OFPXPgYRVKzQ2sETiJenOQKaon2HVQw_gNqQPx7pOZX7tiM4/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_u2TAMzfm3gmXsVM6lAjiQFACaAD9D-57zENQEAznBqpQExPJ9iMJJivTcBkfQ2aKt3-0YYHNHljpvBO68ejmtNlA1e5OFPXPgYRVKzQ2sETiJenOQKaon2HVQw_gNqQPx7pOZX7tiM4/s320/jefflapaztocalama+190.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>this is truly extraordinary riding, on the surface of bedded pure salt, meters and meters deep everywhere the eye can see<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlKwDepJeLqB_GWn7jV1qhM81YKeHDxgvzBwB1a8wSX9E5jXv4NAvchEARwSLpBnfnBU-6PIbtHvxl7vdPg7UHJ2klTKO9rqihwI1uhyZrT2rhAMLAnqw6rmcX2adUldq_fvUCMZRg47U/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlKwDepJeLqB_GWn7jV1qhM81YKeHDxgvzBwB1a8wSX9E5jXv4NAvchEARwSLpBnfnBU-6PIbtHvxl7vdPg7UHJ2klTKO9rqihwI1uhyZrT2rhAMLAnqw6rmcX2adUldq_fvUCMZRg47U/s320/jefflapaztocalama+143.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>locals gathering salt to sell<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQvNKA2kcqARBwiSxdHkK4gZoH1re_SC_C3wI9LIYbbstcmmR1eP3nDFtZAHKddUackgPCbiWrsXvW55u0ntH8M71OR1HqwIwlagERY4eTxbg9dqTxGVGXpC3EPtKebcS2tCm2rK3YxHQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQvNKA2kcqARBwiSxdHkK4gZoH1re_SC_C3wI9LIYbbstcmmR1eP3nDFtZAHKddUackgPCbiWrsXvW55u0ntH8M71OR1HqwIwlagERY4eTxbg9dqTxGVGXpC3EPtKebcS2tCm2rK3YxHQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+144.jpg" width="240px" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">on the way to Coipasa village, we ran into deep sand, not the only time we will be seeing this</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXWLTTkQMPmljOofzrZInHjV154x3971JEhSKqCSK0LdQAG9jfnA-es8z5i-U0k3bEIUjcMRgroNBanlf2KASaPnxUNvUmQ8rCKpkC4ebUP4arUM2UqND7KWEvP1_UTe7fltoc17ye9ic/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXWLTTkQMPmljOofzrZInHjV154x3971JEhSKqCSK0LdQAG9jfnA-es8z5i-U0k3bEIUjcMRgroNBanlf2KASaPnxUNvUmQ8rCKpkC4ebUP4arUM2UqND7KWEvP1_UTe7fltoc17ye9ic/s320/jefflapaztocalama+145.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">curious kids in Coipasa</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD0lC3vN2bCOg6lbtxa2hyVlT0KOTsCFoyv7dmzgaCUWJ2iJJmSAUuJKv946Z5aiHZx-AGALols0wQntIx-UFscHPo7HLCGC-EVARW5Rd2hNizSZ3cBy7P296G9EolOBDvVmguB88z364/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD0lC3vN2bCOg6lbtxa2hyVlT0KOTsCFoyv7dmzgaCUWJ2iJJmSAUuJKv946Z5aiHZx-AGALols0wQntIx-UFscHPo7HLCGC-EVARW5Rd2hNizSZ3cBy7P296G9EolOBDvVmguB88z364/s320/jefflapaztocalama+148.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">amazing salt crystal formations on the Salar de Coipasa</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMGXmK1VcXK1LJt6IQnkONpIVo6vNVsqqyv3wuo9o82aru3n4Em_ncJAHjLU3M41P2M7__UhiGrcHjgy6M9-dZdolFxQbbz3AyPoXadteTJyDO8s-pcj_50vZaTS3Hr6NALO7iRxNuF9o/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMGXmK1VcXK1LJt6IQnkONpIVo6vNVsqqyv3wuo9o82aru3n4Em_ncJAHjLU3M41P2M7__UhiGrcHjgy6M9-dZdolFxQbbz3AyPoXadteTJyDO8s-pcj_50vZaTS3Hr6NALO7iRxNuF9o/s400/jefflapaztocalama+150.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div> ... we found a cave just at dusk not far from Coipasa village and made ourselves at home...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNh97cMy9xvdLe8WxNZUM3_ytS18as6_8XLOWUylGZI4h4J8rQZEnnshJ9oOkufR9cnhqLSv1dLMIxot2aKXsXVuSnyw8U3mm3F-7jgyR6qz1lnIQEuyMfjBZrK_SLyqw7ZxMd6jrnFk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiNh97cMy9xvdLe8WxNZUM3_ytS18as6_8XLOWUylGZI4h4J8rQZEnnshJ9oOkufR9cnhqLSv1dLMIxot2aKXsXVuSnyw8U3mm3F-7jgyR6qz1lnIQEuyMfjBZrK_SLyqw7ZxMd6jrnFk/s320/jefflapaztocalama+151.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzmrwHVf5CU_TqgIXkDAxoL-iC849BbS2IpcsNDGnyOGEbc-ZthkxnqKLX3V545kNhTDQ-aSvz_oQ1Dg4MhGQzweI5jS_xCyiWUmOKeH4nSq3r8Oui93jxf2PXkhInVtyY4WsO0gHf4s/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzmrwHVf5CU_TqgIXkDAxoL-iC849BbS2IpcsNDGnyOGEbc-ZthkxnqKLX3V545kNhTDQ-aSvz_oQ1Dg4MhGQzweI5jS_xCyiWUmOKeH4nSq3r8Oui93jxf2PXkhInVtyY4WsO0gHf4s/s400/jefflapaztocalama+153.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">sunrise above the salar</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4S5PFjxStqBtyNsDFTIiYnaWvhTngtRp8tCvP1Gq4nAPg1-4BE4B_KANrlyCMkUuRb9f9_fsoBWErx1ciY9qKqbYKe9v-7ihP_-us04o7sFPEepoux_t_25VzX4MDI7V_xj9aFz5ipAQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4S5PFjxStqBtyNsDFTIiYnaWvhTngtRp8tCvP1Gq4nAPg1-4BE4B_KANrlyCMkUuRb9f9_fsoBWErx1ciY9qKqbYKe9v-7ihP_-us04o7sFPEepoux_t_25VzX4MDI7V_xj9aFz5ipAQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+155.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the cave seen from the salar</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3ua__64bULhEd3W1Bt7X3U722q-E49mSOf57Oba2BFoHWkXsscDT_a9JntLZC6djaxHsScrNXFSJ1WTQLdMoVg446KduzgDmmsTIHf5xzltatLUSFUyViGT1c5LB_AkG2S-jVs8nHDs/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3ua__64bULhEd3W1Bt7X3U722q-E49mSOf57Oba2BFoHWkXsscDT_a9JntLZC6djaxHsScrNXFSJ1WTQLdMoVg446KduzgDmmsTIHf5xzltatLUSFUyViGT1c5LB_AkG2S-jVs8nHDs/s400/jefflapaztocalama+189.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div> riding on in the morning... goal to be off the salar before the sun is too high (we failed)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5R_nygm-bBqJb-ttYFaKciyFTKu1H1vAm1ia5r_JmoBBOJf_2Dm53TXx753EeReqxDh84M6vLePSchz0SDf-8DhG1dxXFmgkW9RojAcveR7o3A2nEGgAgAztHCxHxf7JLKm9wFRF5Y0Q/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5R_nygm-bBqJb-ttYFaKciyFTKu1H1vAm1ia5r_JmoBBOJf_2Dm53TXx753EeReqxDh84M6vLePSchz0SDf-8DhG1dxXFmgkW9RojAcveR7o3A2nEGgAgAztHCxHxf7JLKm9wFRF5Y0Q/s320/jefflapaztocalama+159.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4VoyA-9WVlyt0T9BI44cBu9a0P8NhMzXVhrgZe6l1QocTJnQjBkF9ZuIeKzZQE4RYt3PfIqtelOZHIX77xy_8oAh-lDpV8Ccj2SM26IiPT3yGz5ZLY1PcksFNca9TrMesZZC7zmIr3Iw/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4VoyA-9WVlyt0T9BI44cBu9a0P8NhMzXVhrgZe6l1QocTJnQjBkF9ZuIeKzZQE4RYt3PfIqtelOZHIX77xy_8oAh-lDpV8Ccj2SM26IiPT3yGz5ZLY1PcksFNca9TrMesZZC7zmIr3Iw/s400/jefflapaztocalama+160.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">you gotta try this to believe it</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV9dJV1dHz4bmZP0RnB9sMNoFlgbzyK6J5DnY3jEKmdZUCPKSlgfu5QjXm55Zp0OS-WcJ30_W5GS7Vu1-TQQKzfpzwGQuGr4aG-eKBDxGucU5AK6MmsDFJmWNVqC1ntAcJM1ZWpezj-oQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV9dJV1dHz4bmZP0RnB9sMNoFlgbzyK6J5DnY3jEKmdZUCPKSlgfu5QjXm55Zp0OS-WcJ30_W5GS7Vu1-TQQKzfpzwGQuGr4aG-eKBDxGucU5AK6MmsDFJmWNVqC1ntAcJM1ZWpezj-oQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+163.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">not all smooth-grooving here. These rough salt crystals made for slow going and delayed our progess</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fK5QLFdRICh34bXs7REvO1N3jKa8m0hcyq1YcH4fD1DK5gPeaKa-ME1cRfUVola6WnI_fHwLl86ZBS3hYF7A_2Iw3N5AG1VaGrWUamBOTIsXkhZUJq9FgAVkUJfm5uJZCqnE35vfDOI/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fK5QLFdRICh34bXs7REvO1N3jKa8m0hcyq1YcH4fD1DK5gPeaKa-ME1cRfUVola6WnI_fHwLl86ZBS3hYF7A_2Iw3N5AG1VaGrWUamBOTIsXkhZUJq9FgAVkUJfm5uJZCqnE35vfDOI/s320/jefflapaztocalama+164.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">also, wet salt made for tricky navigation</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-UXA-RvbocqDSOVV9-Xtn9UoE3HdUzundlj9BYiNmbI7bBX9lWJQIYIwxTt70gAZJ_L4XhjPEL8onvy9DOUA2tA7s-bAcpISKorJkEhVj5Mnj8SeRPPk25a5gs7OfaSsKZJGN7C6gtU/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-UXA-RvbocqDSOVV9-Xtn9UoE3HdUzundlj9BYiNmbI7bBX9lWJQIYIwxTt70gAZJ_L4XhjPEL8onvy9DOUA2tA7s-bAcpISKorJkEhVj5Mnj8SeRPPk25a5gs7OfaSsKZJGN7C6gtU/s200/jefflapaztocalama+146.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff's bottom bracket area while exiting the salar</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhFN35C4dbW546_GDA6RW0FdohTK1BkiLXbzo-Gy8kRcMC3IkEaycCc1lhTs-zU0i8lCcOM_opQ5Nd3PHiJrO40XWAjyUxrmFsVSn2Zt461b-qSw2Og5_G7l3dBVPwlqnsWWb-pv3gAwo/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhFN35C4dbW546_GDA6RW0FdohTK1BkiLXbzo-Gy8kRcMC3IkEaycCc1lhTs-zU0i8lCcOM_opQ5Nd3PHiJrO40XWAjyUxrmFsVSn2Zt461b-qSw2Og5_G7l3dBVPwlqnsWWb-pv3gAwo/s400/jefflapaztocalama+167.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div> ... arrived in Tauca, by now no surprise that its a ghost town as well, Tom collapses...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmbDOThyphenhyphenPXb9z6vHe3Qs7OeTY5YO7dnlRKETC-jO9H6SaX5QR8RZwAijDS72JIdVsmlSWdR11G-oUOJ0LIXtCBNVBlpYu939Annz9S6XjFyUwPokfsNC0JWKeB5XcMcH08ntVQLWybg4E/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmbDOThyphenhyphenPXb9z6vHe3Qs7OeTY5YO7dnlRKETC-jO9H6SaX5QR8RZwAijDS72JIdVsmlSWdR11G-oUOJ0LIXtCBNVBlpYu939Annz9S6XjFyUwPokfsNC0JWKeB5XcMcH08ntVQLWybg4E/s200/jefflapaztocalama+165.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibatmOYXVhj1gYaiAAcvo_f4Bxbqgflh41Hr1T2oXR1s36kPhw0yembNSTVrqrI-S3Pxy-LO0OHZNz2hUTO-k4dsnOrmqF_X7jHMKoiULAdhtXgAGTAlgdU68jMpox0yR-yEA665HJITU/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibatmOYXVhj1gYaiAAcvo_f4Bxbqgflh41Hr1T2oXR1s36kPhw0yembNSTVrqrI-S3Pxy-LO0OHZNz2hUTO-k4dsnOrmqF_X7jHMKoiULAdhtXgAGTAlgdU68jMpox0yR-yEA665HJITU/s320/jefflapaztocalama+168.jpg" width="240px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">actually, Tauca does have a few residents, and they grow lots of quinoa in the lands about</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp-kfT4tidiwxQcpEFU7zxnI45dIA_31Onx5HjvrRaQ4F4bBPV4Sce7-VWFjFUqPveZQiSMmZJM66XGD8IfX-p_LYsMdgNyDw863dfR-aJM-e0cbOAs7Tp755ITijYGOENY5HYWmOofQM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp-kfT4tidiwxQcpEFU7zxnI45dIA_31Onx5HjvrRaQ4F4bBPV4Sce7-VWFjFUqPveZQiSMmZJM66XGD8IfX-p_LYsMdgNyDw863dfR-aJM-e0cbOAs7Tp755ITijYGOENY5HYWmOofQM/s320/jefflapaztocalama+170.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">getting water in Luca</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqh1SzoEDaTQgE20cMiI6bXtwak6qXw0sidEMd3amJhAuXwzVOplfNodztM3GDU82cpYcTtNhyphenhyphenZsJ7NLoNNQMWTZRy2Z5LC57GdIFclGkl9MJJ5i6I2yXVPDb1Wt1qzpK5D7xXL7mi6w/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqh1SzoEDaTQgE20cMiI6bXtwak6qXw0sidEMd3amJhAuXwzVOplfNodztM3GDU82cpYcTtNhyphenhyphenZsJ7NLoNNQMWTZRy2Z5LC57GdIFclGkl9MJJ5i6I2yXVPDb1Wt1qzpK5D7xXL7mi6w/s400/jefflapaztocalama+173.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div> ... some nice riding here on the way to Salinas...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8bzWmYTuNJckX7UPhkHAi4MsHXcecuCrVLD-ET75fk6rar1N2eiSqWHPMkZ2TC8gyV1ppR3jO194uFLBLp6jfIhYVhcVNt2FQLWPtGGuuTEiC8oBJkGaKxlVMQdjUgd9yddCjZuvaDk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8bzWmYTuNJckX7UPhkHAi4MsHXcecuCrVLD-ET75fk6rar1N2eiSqWHPMkZ2TC8gyV1ppR3jO194uFLBLp6jfIhYVhcVNt2FQLWPtGGuuTEiC8oBJkGaKxlVMQdjUgd9yddCjZuvaDk/s400/jefflapaztocalama+177.jpg" width="400px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuhL-qwE1h9q1LRyXZ9gggOHYofKlZiGr30wmVZWdDNujJABE65xxykBqY1FRKnSd84KCNTk3_t5Ugd3KhT8GXUSlP2p3NLenrmyL-zNIjeZwSgNK2RuLVc3N6KBAHvRNPgmDxUdj2eL4/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuhL-qwE1h9q1LRyXZ9gggOHYofKlZiGr30wmVZWdDNujJABE65xxykBqY1FRKnSd84KCNTk3_t5Ugd3KhT8GXUSlP2p3NLenrmyL-zNIjeZwSgNK2RuLVc3N6KBAHvRNPgmDxUdj2eL4/s200/jefflapaztocalama+179.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div> ... cactus blooming, with Salinas in the background below...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZYzAXQvVvlDrGjrKZz9t9mfRDz9H6KxyATkZB9-546DuqSLIpIu-orHoCM_bS1HIUF5gyquTRjXzMlZvNnwrTQNKmGsMCK9wkQF3I9edvxkHWLJ0eaxMEIYbn6KM2Gv69fzQ42r3PqQ/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+182.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZYzAXQvVvlDrGjrKZz9t9mfRDz9H6KxyATkZB9-546DuqSLIpIu-orHoCM_bS1HIUF5gyquTRjXzMlZvNnwrTQNKmGsMCK9wkQF3I9edvxkHWLJ0eaxMEIYbn6KM2Gv69fzQ42r3PqQ/s320/jefflapaztocalama+182.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-oIdqy2lvhrvyP6uo9sNgIlrEpGgFHeCKpK6ZS8Ae5K5TO5uBQ6sga_dh8lOO11aq-wRDKxhQ99HBYth4VCGJwnAr0US4DLn4fpu4ufTQaA_P-Lh66Laxcp8sm3feT1lVpQjKo5YwsrM/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-oIdqy2lvhrvyP6uo9sNgIlrEpGgFHeCKpK6ZS8Ae5K5TO5uBQ6sga_dh8lOO11aq-wRDKxhQ99HBYth4VCGJwnAr0US4DLn4fpu4ufTQaA_P-Lh66Laxcp8sm3feT1lVpQjKo5YwsrM/s200/jefflapaztocalama+191.jpg" width="200px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we did a lot of resting in Salinas during our two-night stay at the Hostal Ecológico, highly recommended.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpQgafOY0TOoADAr14Hcr2inkLrMA47uOI8n7MRcbkAmgy5MDeC-uOIwWwNmQGT9CTBXVLDKUWmlHs_x3nKgD16J1tamTNSRooaj7D99J06NFY5jZivQ3QwUQPtYsc72NtxkPqjCMoIIE/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpQgafOY0TOoADAr14Hcr2inkLrMA47uOI8n7MRcbkAmgy5MDeC-uOIwWwNmQGT9CTBXVLDKUWmlHs_x3nKgD16J1tamTNSRooaj7D99J06NFY5jZivQ3QwUQPtYsc72NtxkPqjCMoIIE/s200/jefflapaztocalama+193.jpg" width="150px" /></a></div> this guy, the young son of the owners, would run to the kitchen and bring us back french fries, unbeknownst to his mother. An angel of sorts, hungry cyclist's best friend. We made sure he got his share of candy for these good deeds.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNj3uDJp6NaWSFy6_yaCovy2CVi_MqJQn7i_Eg_N5vFZkvwJdQGS0k7k18bIVlR1i-gKaxnyDgmrnT90X_CZ6f1n69_tjaNPsVCqvGR_n76RSBeTWcd2auEw1QM3rbqOzJKmyqPAVB2Nk/s1600/jefflapaztocalama+194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNj3uDJp6NaWSFy6_yaCovy2CVi_MqJQn7i_Eg_N5vFZkvwJdQGS0k7k18bIVlR1i-gKaxnyDgmrnT90X_CZ6f1n69_tjaNPsVCqvGR_n76RSBeTWcd2auEw1QM3rbqOzJKmyqPAVB2Nk/s320/jefflapaztocalama+194.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff's sorry bottom lip after the reflective UV on the salar had fried us a few days back</div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-25595923745680215412011-11-18T09:43:00.001-10:002012-01-05T16:32:08.144-10:00Around La Paz, Bolivia (November 1 - 11, 2011)<div style="text-align: center;">In La Paz we met up with Arnaud Lavelaye, last seen in Cusco, and together we formed a plan to climb Huayna Potosí, famous towering peak above La Paz. For this climb we went with an agency, mostly for the great deal they offered: $100 includes all food, gear, transport, night in refuge, and guide service. Probably some of the cheapest mountaineering on the planet.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhgSkPgReW_eQbvkUin8cat33jf5U2IOPl4PxlpKqdkymV4O5eXztv4OypkXPXThNxfVf6kqKA5qzytf1oQqPfcBZH3K6xP-UF5oWpLL7tbT7GYwCYOrd_PneqUJBb-2D-bPzI0cQUc3c/s1600/DSC06008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhgSkPgReW_eQbvkUin8cat33jf5U2IOPl4PxlpKqdkymV4O5eXztv4OypkXPXThNxfVf6kqKA5qzytf1oQqPfcBZH3K6xP-UF5oWpLL7tbT7GYwCYOrd_PneqUJBb-2D-bPzI0cQUc3c/s320/DSC06008.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">we had the fortune to be in the same climbing group as three Spanish folks. Pictured here are Ines (Zaragoza), Marta (Madrid), Xavi (Sevilla), Tom, Jeff and Arnaud. (photo: Ines )<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvCRA8m7Lvy_RzEdr1TH7MNjmyE9wNDQp2c_hA56ntz1HLc5vRSoNSHlhSo90XoEjli1LrRS2EBGQ_66guXUvoJKnB3bMtyB0TICl-eC6gl4XSO3A8ss_UGVsDmLpzwCLcwuaw2JcuzOg/s1600/DSC06012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvCRA8m7Lvy_RzEdr1TH7MNjmyE9wNDQp2c_hA56ntz1HLc5vRSoNSHlhSo90XoEjli1LrRS2EBGQ_66guXUvoJKnB3bMtyB0TICl-eC6gl4XSO3A8ss_UGVsDmLpzwCLcwuaw2JcuzOg/s320/DSC06012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">approaching Huayna Potosí we had rain and foreboding weather (photo: Ines )</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOGNalDbQXvrBOuH1kC8GqTs7RbZj_k2FtJCR5RDBYzakjreBsrV586bGpECTteM8LK06TaBlAdNVLwQ0OXQA4Hc-7xIhypgW84AS1EOijGKnsOIQle-tZyl0xYyAJvl5BNY7w4frp58k/s1600/cuscotolapaz+164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOGNalDbQXvrBOuH1kC8GqTs7RbZj_k2FtJCR5RDBYzakjreBsrV586bGpECTteM8LK06TaBlAdNVLwQ0OXQA4Hc-7xIhypgW84AS1EOijGKnsOIQle-tZyl0xYyAJvl5BNY7w4frp58k/s320/cuscotolapaz+164.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we started up in light snowfall</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIqgqqrt9jQfhoxh7gxc0MfMc6MAQlELL9kyd3Y6Tt1Dn-wmuuBy2SDFXjI45g5WQQntv1WcV47Te9dVY5aRyBaADP0vpQ9pLWsqguw-Zyzgb-inG2_zOQK0_U5NDoLeLjnZa3uj0VnwE/s1600/P1010006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIqgqqrt9jQfhoxh7gxc0MfMc6MAQlELL9kyd3Y6Tt1Dn-wmuuBy2SDFXjI45g5WQQntv1WcV47Te9dVY5aRyBaADP0vpQ9pLWsqguw-Zyzgb-inG2_zOQK0_U5NDoLeLjnZa3uj0VnwE/s200/P1010006.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom chewing coca leaves, proven medicine for altitude sickness, hunger, and lots of other things (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxhJCIfWHZUcJDLNuWNI0QNNygCTXQsJzKQLXnk3p1H3JCWE7HZCXKW8dCYjRH3zIwp1VG8p6VdxII5xFtPyXONYKs9jqke4HJbiGwZ4NfUzRDm4oqG3Pf3twQi-8QdSv7rbSOkcrWiyw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxhJCIfWHZUcJDLNuWNI0QNNygCTXQsJzKQLXnk3p1H3JCWE7HZCXKW8dCYjRH3zIwp1VG8p6VdxII5xFtPyXONYKs9jqke4HJbiGwZ4NfUzRDm4oqG3Pf3twQi-8QdSv7rbSOkcrWiyw/s400/cuscotolapaz+167.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we moved up the right side of this glacier</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzrFPFyKZ56d8wAwm8UCyF3VxyRcjOq94B9Fwla-Fn8sy6TzdNw-4rNjfH1aC4VL1o4LODXjrIqrsFB4DAJ-_GP11mzECGmmoi2yTSIC-EqWQ8no58emTwWBFvVZ6S79nCdnPdv-QWRg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzrFPFyKZ56d8wAwm8UCyF3VxyRcjOq94B9Fwla-Fn8sy6TzdNw-4rNjfH1aC4VL1o4LODXjrIqrsFB4DAJ-_GP11mzECGmmoi2yTSIC-EqWQ8no58emTwWBFvVZ6S79nCdnPdv-QWRg/s320/cuscotolapaz+168.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the sky started clearing as we got nearer to the refuge</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZukBUrw_9E6xRDCLJWtGuj_KRJNu623vuoeIBx4UpDQmMYy20w2Ys7YIUIja6Dc1yOzDvBcaFjUY-sCIp24K0k910zD5yAuw8uAIebwA8JbjKGJGBvshhoMWVkoZ5Yjpe4Awn0eGEiZo/s1600/P1010017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZukBUrw_9E6xRDCLJWtGuj_KRJNu623vuoeIBx4UpDQmMYy20w2Ys7YIUIja6Dc1yOzDvBcaFjUY-sCIp24K0k910zD5yAuw8uAIebwA8JbjKGJGBvshhoMWVkoZ5Yjpe4Awn0eGEiZo/s400/P1010017.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">sublime scenery (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxVvjKNYR0s-RmTkZfeED27l5R6hQtLXVpXGhu4xSee3CuwKiIIdasqHen0-Q6vlXufgI6j4Pf5-Uafclt6wRrRz2A0FJfucaMaANm_0RNwTTHeA-D4weir__1ZL9uqd9AI-TqKS4S2kE/s1600/P1010026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxVvjKNYR0s-RmTkZfeED27l5R6hQtLXVpXGhu4xSee3CuwKiIIdasqHen0-Q6vlXufgI6j4Pf5-Uafclt6wRrRz2A0FJfucaMaANm_0RNwTTHeA-D4weir__1ZL9uqd9AI-TqKS4S2kE/s320/P1010026.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLLb1IixMEjDXewDz5PFxJtTejXXqQG6BdvZOH4q9Xsw_DZmjiwrSknBDltRJ552t9obcRt8a9EQNjWkAw-Q5bk_-c1L6QGemb9WkWKFoG7hy3vPGnf32YMoY8jqX_VGrH0QzZFlt6OE/s1600/cuscotolapaz+241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLLb1IixMEjDXewDz5PFxJtTejXXqQG6BdvZOH4q9Xsw_DZmjiwrSknBDltRJ552t9obcRt8a9EQNjWkAw-Q5bk_-c1L6QGemb9WkWKFoG7hy3vPGnf32YMoY8jqX_VGrH0QzZFlt6OE/s320/cuscotolapaz+241.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a great group chilling in the refuge</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAMcoSGW9GDNw3tiAVD-y1JWZLY_b3UXoMD-b5MuHsoE36gUzQrDHDY81oXXBiyiHEfUSaK65_P8rffQQQGS97ifBj517Z4xdcSbZ4XU9ska0wFJdwkeB74Ur2Aslen7tk3-vjVPYIPq4/s1600/DSC06051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAMcoSGW9GDNw3tiAVD-y1JWZLY_b3UXoMD-b5MuHsoE36gUzQrDHDY81oXXBiyiHEfUSaK65_P8rffQQQGS97ifBj517Z4xdcSbZ4XU9ska0wFJdwkeB74Ur2Aslen7tk3-vjVPYIPq4/s200/DSC06051.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Xavi and Tom trying to rest (photo: Ines )</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvpHMXbrLCD1MYonbygcnd_vDxpgv1yomZ3-TMbhH6i8K2Z8VoDRHavP9epuvtqcJj-yQAH2GWp6NcvNDuONDEtjlpmoYniM7kfRHwpBRVIEn2krLKMa2-9jBMNzEfbKlIWoBKZgtqTRw/s1600/DSC06058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvpHMXbrLCD1MYonbygcnd_vDxpgv1yomZ3-TMbhH6i8K2Z8VoDRHavP9epuvtqcJj-yQAH2GWp6NcvNDuONDEtjlpmoYniM7kfRHwpBRVIEn2krLKMa2-9jBMNzEfbKlIWoBKZgtqTRw/s320/DSC06058.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">gull seen on slopes of Huayna Potosí, no doubt due to the proximity of Lake Titicaca (photo: Ines )</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1OwI7K_NvGN-7eWvQMoQe9nl11IWjMjn-dDXEBHEOPnItbZa-HxkTD9zmMU5eGlzCbFBRGqEqfCRbAM3hz7cwvNWNyTCZ4Hnvn9mdFsfuNBQnFGfpkUsM-p9w41FUAVEf3OYP_5rBcyo/s1600/cuscotolapaz+184.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1OwI7K_NvGN-7eWvQMoQe9nl11IWjMjn-dDXEBHEOPnItbZa-HxkTD9zmMU5eGlzCbFBRGqEqfCRbAM3hz7cwvNWNyTCZ4Hnvn9mdFsfuNBQnFGfpkUsM-p9w41FUAVEf3OYP_5rBcyo/s400/cuscotolapaz+184.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... dusk scenes from the refuge area...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxmVcbbLQCMOa1X36VIpEj3OghwoxSKb4aBhhz9sS9ZyzfC85LiJFEPsetnpBgDSnaVms6fd1wbksdg-o9Gd-Hc_2Z-ZCKgFDMGGQkwddduLAOFOBACmFVlJl5msPVJTcYht8107N5cg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGxmVcbbLQCMOa1X36VIpEj3OghwoxSKb4aBhhz9sS9ZyzfC85LiJFEPsetnpBgDSnaVms6fd1wbksdg-o9Gd-Hc_2Z-ZCKgFDMGGQkwddduLAOFOBACmFVlJl5msPVJTcYht8107N5cg/s320/cuscotolapaz+185.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Marta clearly elated at the gorgeous weather and landscapes</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dNFXQ5lQGPg3aXbndsT96SC0_BrsMCldk-uPe1ZjI_dAXFsfuWFa_85th8DKTz8YrCY3sde0A_vO-roNVYjRliEpIlsWTdB66iosLsQH4zwxUnVCHKIcnSZ8EN7k_jOwAIvsevBzr24/s1600/P1010057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dNFXQ5lQGPg3aXbndsT96SC0_BrsMCldk-uPe1ZjI_dAXFsfuWFa_85th8DKTz8YrCY3sde0A_vO-roNVYjRliEpIlsWTdB66iosLsQH4zwxUnVCHKIcnSZ8EN7k_jOwAIvsevBzr24/s200/P1010057.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">after a nearly sleepless night at 5200m in the refuge, our team started up the mountain at 2:30 AM or so. Jeff with our guide, Renato. (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUEBHEXEl0l3Xms23dGKyZGlldlReCEQmNDcExpwlqK_sAf-rIhmzFbPCOeuWNTAykol3bghy2KTAWsaq7Eb-ANRECFb7pWvmixFwLwqctCL3EoBNGnnzF0peeo_7cMI_o7DB2i-oZLO8/s1600/cuscotolapaz+187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUEBHEXEl0l3Xms23dGKyZGlldlReCEQmNDcExpwlqK_sAf-rIhmzFbPCOeuWNTAykol3bghy2KTAWsaq7Eb-ANRECFb7pWvmixFwLwqctCL3EoBNGnnzF0peeo_7cMI_o7DB2i-oZLO8/s320/cuscotolapaz+187.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Arnaud and Jeff at daybreak, somewhere around 5700m </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj_LOQU14cCbjxPag2p1eor7FacuAV_0DFvLBZ_RJaKBN8tACdDhKDHbcArb_BrvjwsdZGzZOfkbAyzj2HPnWSXZL4n07tQTuZw676NOdLv4QpjujKVTdxOKzpVCtRF67iQ4wPnGOUTl0/s1600/cuscotolapaz+188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj_LOQU14cCbjxPag2p1eor7FacuAV_0DFvLBZ_RJaKBN8tACdDhKDHbcArb_BrvjwsdZGzZOfkbAyzj2HPnWSXZL4n07tQTuZw676NOdLv4QpjujKVTdxOKzpVCtRF67iQ4wPnGOUTl0/s400/cuscotolapaz+188.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">dawn views with several climbers coming up below</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS67jpz-X-0vjGjTzpqL-lfQqMqlcqCiVNMyk2isbS2xu-X4GsKTfYAECnJG0IrlFNnuO-W9H_Vyq7FptjJKQsTo9aIoTarF7evdkkbdwiH71WumhhXIep4rpfHTSf7n2mL-0kTwRPQVY/s1600/DSC06096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS67jpz-X-0vjGjTzpqL-lfQqMqlcqCiVNMyk2isbS2xu-X4GsKTfYAECnJG0IrlFNnuO-W9H_Vyq7FptjJKQsTo9aIoTarF7evdkkbdwiH71WumhhXIep4rpfHTSf7n2mL-0kTwRPQVY/s400/DSC06096.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">sunrise (photo: Ines )</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievVpXCkZwi7Coa53hfU7uM7U-fHhYrQJmfGasR1cjiitW8WdQRsOpgwM57K_q24ao7LuZFytuwfvIyOVBosOepH0uHIjqZ4TcNsIZOXGftJ7XiJ8M9TRC0ZVMVTtXru36El5rXIuQmWw/s1600/P1010074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievVpXCkZwi7Coa53hfU7uM7U-fHhYrQJmfGasR1cjiitW8WdQRsOpgwM57K_q24ao7LuZFytuwfvIyOVBosOepH0uHIjqZ4TcNsIZOXGftJ7XiJ8M9TRC0ZVMVTtXru36El5rXIuQmWw/s400/P1010074.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">spectacular colors during sunrise (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdjSTGz_wpWVZr2Ci6esEC0t5bHXmuZ11FlhyphenhyphenYDNzR53Suf6eQ2fXcJ478Gen64FrEobe59HMsY5oGvXKMxrld4Quby8nhBa4FQ4gds8cwo4pnMpNW00CZvoPVCotnE-S2wpI1gTOyq8k/s1600/P1010067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdjSTGz_wpWVZr2Ci6esEC0t5bHXmuZ11FlhyphenhyphenYDNzR53Suf6eQ2fXcJ478Gen64FrEobe59HMsY5oGvXKMxrld4Quby8nhBa4FQ4gds8cwo4pnMpNW00CZvoPVCotnE-S2wpI1gTOyq8k/s320/P1010067.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Renato and Jeff nearing the final push (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqwHn5Oc2BvQGxtdvfo1i0deUrHgN1Ss0FuQVHAHQU1bArwKXbe5M97ooMY0Xc2jMTcaaDaR4SjJwQJK3DuocS0Kj9S-2DhqGyjwyTZSttJ8eGotaXutIgGThqmh4FXXfYc1_8S6FEhME/s1600/P1010080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqwHn5Oc2BvQGxtdvfo1i0deUrHgN1Ss0FuQVHAHQU1bArwKXbe5M97ooMY0Xc2jMTcaaDaR4SjJwQJK3DuocS0Kj9S-2DhqGyjwyTZSttJ8eGotaXutIgGThqmh4FXXfYc1_8S6FEhME/s400/P1010080.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">looking down from the knife-edge summit ridge (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgai_7b0WxsKWElWtJYZQo40zZsH1_fCQ4uh3UvCBu-af04VmtHEBy8Y3jB0U_Ey9TgWBjwjhXy8Gvupk_mlE9NixtG9WHUHaLeak9A_gox4Lp0ZfVpz4zla_hXWHP91k4kH2m9ZwpxaUA/s1600/P1010077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgai_7b0WxsKWElWtJYZQo40zZsH1_fCQ4uh3UvCBu-af04VmtHEBy8Y3jB0U_Ey9TgWBjwjhXy8Gvupk_mlE9NixtG9WHUHaLeak9A_gox4Lp0ZfVpz4zla_hXWHP91k4kH2m9ZwpxaUA/s320/P1010077.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Renato and Jeff on the knife edge, the drop to the right steep and thousands of meters long (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZvXWIjxvVX04a-SxK14f5OZdBgJWnxHk8TcgnYukZ-b1vMOS07FXUXx8VLo4i_MLmj-sNigm-phHQ42QGBr9OoSxhztmCJVqSVFrHQG4oJZhkoIG9TZ170VmQ9MNpvPmtFHbjTMTCYE/s1600/P1010095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZvXWIjxvVX04a-SxK14f5OZdBgJWnxHk8TcgnYukZ-b1vMOS07FXUXx8VLo4i_MLmj-sNigm-phHQ42QGBr9OoSxhztmCJVqSVFrHQG4oJZhkoIG9TZ170VmQ9MNpvPmtFHbjTMTCYE/s400/P1010095.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">view from the summit (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTaFi86Mnj0k9xzAMRf_7Vu4vD42x2reh0AX1f-1EwIryUPUfovpnVAkdVcmkusmEbSbTim4PCTiZhTpSNeA5DFQ2W1cT3spv4upHK6DCLxGnXtOCXLP2Yai7L-RPNlMww4VYzEICDU8/s1600/cuscotolapaz+198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTaFi86Mnj0k9xzAMRf_7Vu4vD42x2reh0AX1f-1EwIryUPUfovpnVAkdVcmkusmEbSbTim4PCTiZhTpSNeA5DFQ2W1cT3spv4upHK6DCLxGnXtOCXLP2Yai7L-RPNlMww4VYzEICDU8/s320/cuscotolapaz+198.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom and his rope team several meters from the summit</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_bQ7tDeaTZG0aC8j173Dy1XCZzNcOPSIycHb57vmPNnewkdaXhGpfZK0JHnsznQeaHOluYUoA-MV0dW6TebvNm-qjKVir7Aq_Dh4K3OJtp2Go9DRQYigJbiHWNfuchuvs9bow3S3WD2U/s1600/P1010098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_bQ7tDeaTZG0aC8j173Dy1XCZzNcOPSIycHb57vmPNnewkdaXhGpfZK0JHnsznQeaHOluYUoA-MV0dW6TebvNm-qjKVir7Aq_Dh4K3OJtp2Go9DRQYigJbiHWNfuchuvs9bow3S3WD2U/s320/P1010098.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we all made it up. The summit of Huayna Potosí at 6088m. (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1ypJhOCVWggXE4MwySaBwLTXZj8oi9sc3lYuPmv705NIDDHa-bI8sqiw-R_hvlvgyCuoki6Hn3TRM0soRgkODqZz3WGelmaVhCbc01WnYCfKnrGjShT_R011t88oYbbfDR3fi_25lgo/s1600/P1010103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1ypJhOCVWggXE4MwySaBwLTXZj8oi9sc3lYuPmv705NIDDHa-bI8sqiw-R_hvlvgyCuoki6Hn3TRM0soRgkODqZz3WGelmaVhCbc01WnYCfKnrGjShT_R011t88oYbbfDR3fi_25lgo/s320/P1010103.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6c7-1puQdIk4h3FIfmmiouv2vOJSzCkhn0TLsepcFOOXZ5yzftTVq6VoaXYYbZCEWXRTcMc3Gll2sGwy6twn7c5miPMeYt5CoXW1Y1nFX8XLYV-UTcOjkQbwICU6F_dGfH-pjSx0yUEQ/s1600/P1010102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6c7-1puQdIk4h3FIfmmiouv2vOJSzCkhn0TLsepcFOOXZ5yzftTVq6VoaXYYbZCEWXRTcMc3Gll2sGwy6twn7c5miPMeYt5CoXW1Y1nFX8XLYV-UTcOjkQbwICU6F_dGfH-pjSx0yUEQ/s400/P1010102.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">breathtaking summit ridge of Huayna Potosí, looming in the background is Illimani (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSI2qepRYs95HHniLCxw55mFoeIYMnXcLiQM3uNkm9Y4JszZaiYx6a14-EHQRRCSD8RaHlv7tdoSZKKfZ_ApZqd4PCaJjE5w77PHnqTKMmmrh1P5Hvj_4LUVDaAsPpYb6PMiVgewHsaQU/s1600/cuscotolapaz+202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSI2qepRYs95HHniLCxw55mFoeIYMnXcLiQM3uNkm9Y4JszZaiYx6a14-EHQRRCSD8RaHlv7tdoSZKKfZ_ApZqd4PCaJjE5w77PHnqTKMmmrh1P5Hvj_4LUVDaAsPpYb6PMiVgewHsaQU/s320/cuscotolapaz+202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom at the summit of his first major climb. This is also Jeff's first time over 6000m.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the following link provides an amazing short video from the summit, by Arnaud:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pr1Lxu1fO14&feature=youtu.be">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pr1Lxu1fO14&feature=youtu.be</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GBX-vpgVBv4jbXBJ6laN3k-yp-yDb761ulMYeWOWTPTij1RhE2NC06T3byBiw1OO059wpd_PFGVKhZjr698yUbYOK5joJWPenxs8ueChE-atjx3Gzi8fUp9nyyZe0HhTnwo9m9YwY6M/s1600/DSC06143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GBX-vpgVBv4jbXBJ6laN3k-yp-yDb761ulMYeWOWTPTij1RhE2NC06T3byBiw1OO059wpd_PFGVKhZjr698yUbYOK5joJWPenxs8ueChE-atjx3Gzi8fUp9nyyZe0HhTnwo9m9YwY6M/s320/DSC06143.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">starting down the knife edge (photo: Ines )</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgglowuIpJI9wgJx6AGSXJ7mkI_o_g0_qa-q-HITU9toTVPQxTS2-bzUNMYZYJKqVY3gmA8fK8p0mZQ3e89D5WHxgT7-MWcka-xzOMlNMDPhEN5DmF6WRl0l_OVpqG58NtS1YF8bF2pQ/s1600/DSC06158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgglowuIpJI9wgJx6AGSXJ7mkI_o_g0_qa-q-HITU9toTVPQxTS2-bzUNMYZYJKqVY3gmA8fK8p0mZQ3e89D5WHxgT7-MWcka-xzOMlNMDPhEN5DmF6WRl0l_OVpqG58NtS1YF8bF2pQ/s320/DSC06158.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">looking into a striking icicled crevasse (photo: Ines)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlEMqFtj7AcWZLGKicGyijYvOuedJD0rTDQPSTgIzrOSiYhvlvsxxs0JDiZynY0bBdzRWYFm0Qsw7ypNSboS-7f8h2khQ5cWlp2Jm4VSZv08e08R_7ZEGtuweBlqRrZ_outAY2m0hr88/s1600/P1010107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOlEMqFtj7AcWZLGKicGyijYvOuedJD0rTDQPSTgIzrOSiYhvlvsxxs0JDiZynY0bBdzRWYFm0Qsw7ypNSboS-7f8h2khQ5cWlp2Jm4VSZv08e08R_7ZEGtuweBlqRrZ_outAY2m0hr88/s320/P1010107.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff jumping across this crevasse (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ZuWxwNVDQleaoZr0wS2V8XMMRrJRWerNnvEqjLCMaiKXFTfsr2PE5GndY6Ah7vruYVoj-GcywK7hXdpjNL70P1NLrF9CZGwmyOpAHbQw5cTf4ZeHbgady70ryF-F7TU0AwWeHZNPNz4/s1600/P1010113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ZuWxwNVDQleaoZr0wS2V8XMMRrJRWerNnvEqjLCMaiKXFTfsr2PE5GndY6Ah7vruYVoj-GcywK7hXdpjNL70P1NLrF9CZGwmyOpAHbQw5cTf4ZeHbgady70ryF-F7TU0AwWeHZNPNz4/s400/P1010113.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">sublime descent with perfect weather (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNQGY2u5d1metTp11m6sBCqT7gegMOxA7IXgq3DeQ5siry7v9onl4wUYB1oGLmw_d5kA_XBnVRTJ4AQE05Q8YuogRs5C8j0muMLq0l2ThRgWZpQegd-CsOGrl2pKdyygS-2OJVczkyX1w/s1600/P1010114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNQGY2u5d1metTp11m6sBCqT7gegMOxA7IXgq3DeQ5siry7v9onl4wUYB1oGLmw_d5kA_XBnVRTJ4AQE05Q8YuogRs5C8j0muMLq0l2ThRgWZpQegd-CsOGrl2pKdyygS-2OJVczkyX1w/s320/P1010114.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Dalí-like glacier landscapes (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGEIQeGKerfHkhZ6Cz6M8ob08U2-DUmql63JOfS899LBP_XDsGSzcxQRVb6Po8u9aAdLVPRtTR6gFVT3G1JZcnxtbERehLLlguaURkhvKlqP28zH_yJDKnhnrsY8fKU43BS33AHcORix4/s1600/P1010121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGEIQeGKerfHkhZ6Cz6M8ob08U2-DUmql63JOfS899LBP_XDsGSzcxQRVb6Po8u9aAdLVPRtTR6gFVT3G1JZcnxtbERehLLlguaURkhvKlqP28zH_yJDKnhnrsY8fKU43BS33AHcORix4/s400/P1010121.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">stunning (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1i1FVVD6LeqQl6gjz5B52a1d-j2kEXWofHyJry4iGsWbQC7FToWwDoWkfTy2b3sHSZAEP2qsHAMNDF1uVIGnplN_NbJJehUUkqsND3TK-muNQFW0pXkZZrVLSHioklDfkEVqfujWy9g4/s1600/P1010126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1i1FVVD6LeqQl6gjz5B52a1d-j2kEXWofHyJry4iGsWbQC7FToWwDoWkfTy2b3sHSZAEP2qsHAMNDF1uVIGnplN_NbJJehUUkqsND3TK-muNQFW0pXkZZrVLSHioklDfkEVqfujWy9g4/s320/P1010126.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our rope team descending: Arnaud, Jeff, and Renato (photo: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWqizWrMKJKozSCvv8k-Z_bRGLyjPmFk68AEofl7Nrkpusqj7Sfe3yg7_lVSLNqSHri-W6M0v9DekdA61yWLfFrqhw3jhT1r20of9QGj2ZmyA1lm_1MN3BlSDEGZIGYceuULghX4ogOw/s1600/DSC06216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWqizWrMKJKozSCvv8k-Z_bRGLyjPmFk68AEofl7Nrkpusqj7Sfe3yg7_lVSLNqSHri-W6M0v9DekdA61yWLfFrqhw3jhT1r20of9QGj2ZmyA1lm_1MN3BlSDEGZIGYceuULghX4ogOw/s200/DSC06216.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>... Xavi was so tired he descended with his pants falling down, and Marta collapsed over her soup back at the refuge... (photos Ines )<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMakaook1cnGQyZJJmQ7QQQd4GbUu-2bq9YaYOkTEX9G8IRMLSX-oVoipw7LbJyUTuio846lfge6g9LGhJBacWgFDTCyQrPDUThgXJZt3g6euAniEXFH2oufcz01GjeKXWoXWRiIiVbns/s1600/DSC06213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMakaook1cnGQyZJJmQ7QQQd4GbUu-2bq9YaYOkTEX9G8IRMLSX-oVoipw7LbJyUTuio846lfge6g9LGhJBacWgFDTCyQrPDUThgXJZt3g6euAniEXFH2oufcz01GjeKXWoXWRiIiVbns/s200/DSC06213.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNT_nzDE-WsW-OGNrJGi-_pU5Rp7AiMjEbibypybc2muMp89wUGfb8mCIel9vOeCXX4HQi8B8uRI3ZTIKpvgakSGoXCe4qdN4MQ1mPpBT8UZKg59bzZGgfqQg3CB8vGKVLDlFVuR6p7Fw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNT_nzDE-WsW-OGNrJGi-_pU5Rp7AiMjEbibypybc2muMp89wUGfb8mCIel9vOeCXX4HQi8B8uRI3ZTIKpvgakSGoXCe4qdN4MQ1mPpBT8UZKg59bzZGgfqQg3CB8vGKVLDlFVuR6p7Fw/s320/cuscotolapaz+213.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">back in La Paz, we stayed at the Casa de Ciclistas, run by a Swiss/Bolivian couple. </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8zew8Ft49hQnkL0O_KjVX1sssuUUV1hq5RC4jch1xQ2TllFigjHcGIboddJhcOeteiMs4FncNZc1givYYqgwg4u4xb2HfRjyQchLEkg6eHS8PO_2RhI407Nzp7aE_4mlLUi1oZ_uZzs/s1600/cuscotolapaz+224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8zew8Ft49hQnkL0O_KjVX1sssuUUV1hq5RC4jch1xQ2TllFigjHcGIboddJhcOeteiMs4FncNZc1givYYqgwg4u4xb2HfRjyQchLEkg6eHS8PO_2RhI407Nzp7aE_4mlLUi1oZ_uZzs/s320/cuscotolapaz+224.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Near the Plaza del Estudiante, we took advantage of the great ambience to busk:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7UFGBVb8RMVGDKPw-FDUqSbL6VgHsXZgLBpjgcoRVL21B-fvhUmGAU9COahWVu1KbyiOhq__CeTdvJL1fI93vNiheJ9YsAHwGLalAyCZKjubqAm87l9TGicVXc1FtlFHdzQuhPZ8sNrc/s1600/cuscotolapaz+237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7UFGBVb8RMVGDKPw-FDUqSbL6VgHsXZgLBpjgcoRVL21B-fvhUmGAU9COahWVu1KbyiOhq__CeTdvJL1fI93vNiheJ9YsAHwGLalAyCZKjubqAm87l9TGicVXc1FtlFHdzQuhPZ8sNrc/s320/cuscotolapaz+237.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYy43227s6KNxXQ1S-cjXnBlKwC1AJQH7fBctmNv170rllaOyUJn5p6Z2TeyaxffxQp_xAr0wrir87wWW5xzEEUk2HMOG7chi0RzlyW9cfHJ2oM7YgrIFuewgTnH-yUO-Mgeanau6DmtU/s1600/cuscotolapaz+234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYy43227s6KNxXQ1S-cjXnBlKwC1AJQH7fBctmNv170rllaOyUJn5p6Z2TeyaxffxQp_xAr0wrir87wWW5xzEEUk2HMOG7chi0RzlyW9cfHJ2oM7YgrIFuewgTnH-yUO-Mgeanau6DmtU/s320/cuscotolapaz+234.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>... this session featured an interview by La Paz's main TV station...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdE588ukF60q3J8jRS39o1nz6UkLcycPWbr2j9Oaq8zW0l6XJs6VwZrnMuQ23-ZEQTHNUYPF6lG43_6U0hh-ndQBT7c-KrxeVeBJE9SUUklpMXI-BtqnlMqr71JunHcNOYWWn8FSnIA_A/s1600/cuscotolapaz+227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdE588ukF60q3J8jRS39o1nz6UkLcycPWbr2j9Oaq8zW0l6XJs6VwZrnMuQ23-ZEQTHNUYPF6lG43_6U0hh-ndQBT7c-KrxeVeBJE9SUUklpMXI-BtqnlMqr71JunHcNOYWWn8FSnIA_A/s320/cuscotolapaz+227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHGk75VxILQ0E5i9XPlXqx4Q8B7BzAwBRA9EndShkdQEhehjl80Tp915_TR_yOedRFbWUuprqct68zMtF4B_mDagv9m3KuCxsgekEhNPv1SFpkjG-bKRPBtE7E19A2N8r76XhiGtKKPk4/s1600/cuscotolapaz+220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHGk75VxILQ0E5i9XPlXqx4Q8B7BzAwBRA9EndShkdQEhehjl80Tp915_TR_yOedRFbWUuprqct68zMtF4B_mDagv9m3KuCxsgekEhNPv1SFpkjG-bKRPBtE7E19A2N8r76XhiGtKKPk4/s320/cuscotolapaz+220.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>... these are stillborn llamas, seen hanging in doorways and shop stalls in La Paz's Mercado de Brujo. Apparently, the llamas are used to bless any number of things, from new houses to weddings and funerals...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZdCBAuE5GIhBkmhVsbpUbQOrCkMhvAcTjy69sPsyMzlHkFfZ6CEtwVAQy-ZToE1pD4eWhpEHww1qqiHda-HH0C7Bo-wotrzGPAHpqvTFYOXiaTqR4fPhfSYku25eo8FbQzc4SDDqnc5k/s1600/cuscotolapaz+219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZdCBAuE5GIhBkmhVsbpUbQOrCkMhvAcTjy69sPsyMzlHkFfZ6CEtwVAQy-ZToE1pD4eWhpEHww1qqiHda-HH0C7Bo-wotrzGPAHpqvTFYOXiaTqR4fPhfSYku25eo8FbQzc4SDDqnc5k/s200/cuscotolapaz+219.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhvEXnEtzz69vmMkmiZOHSISrO-Vs8UQbkJ2aj5mZuFSjaKHNIJWvQcMvNXrH25l12YsdJc1uncJ_4Cnpf1OLt2p2AUC_vB6oT9iJbO90qks9SP36NP8Z1lt8Oz5Z0y8NVD5N8PmK92w4/s1600/cuscotolapaz+244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhvEXnEtzz69vmMkmiZOHSISrO-Vs8UQbkJ2aj5mZuFSjaKHNIJWvQcMvNXrH25l12YsdJc1uncJ_4Cnpf1OLt2p2AUC_vB6oT9iJbO90qks9SP36NP8Z1lt8Oz5Z0y8NVD5N8PmK92w4/s320/cuscotolapaz+244.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">A banner evening. With the help of Brian Reale, friend of Jeff's from university last seen in Colombia in May, we arranged a 90-minute performance in the Adventure Brew Hostel's Sky Bar in La Paz. </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWwNwmaf8cQtt7SSx1KyAr9prHHDeGe1GaofTR3SYKlh2upNmknaHWMIn667wsWn9a4NTBfuBiudVRMyUIMqFIHsmFOVns37mbdK3xlIfYSo82pSTTeIjRw9qn2XfsYtLhTcWuamqXFtc/s1600/cuscotolapaz+252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWwNwmaf8cQtt7SSx1KyAr9prHHDeGe1GaofTR3SYKlh2upNmknaHWMIn667wsWn9a4NTBfuBiudVRMyUIMqFIHsmFOVns37mbdK3xlIfYSo82pSTTeIjRw9qn2XfsYtLhTcWuamqXFtc/s320/cuscotolapaz+252.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The Sky Bar. Our first indoor venue since Open Mic in El Tunco, El Salvador... 11 months earlier.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAvKK8krObats8i6caetFdCvxqjAUHdMHhKs5L1Rb6KUFsIT3NyTMGry6zYHuR7zmP8GuF7e_A5wKRNADns5hyphenhyphenbev5GavquOgaqxnaFdDputwjcvTX-tTina2m3brNLc5-VN9omNUFtIk/s1600/cuscotolapaz+245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAvKK8krObats8i6caetFdCvxqjAUHdMHhKs5L1Rb6KUFsIT3NyTMGry6zYHuR7zmP8GuF7e_A5wKRNADns5hyphenhyphenbev5GavquOgaqxnaFdDputwjcvTX-tTina2m3brNLc5-VN9omNUFtIk/s320/cuscotolapaz+245.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> Luckily, the Sky Bar has great acoustics. We played folk, blues, and bluegrass, and several originals.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChT4c7fYSqxuqdK6SvR15au6ezFG7wxNsQghlKm5S5_ixmvc6pBg1IhbeVsSJn4W44bjPz4OKnGk8Kg29HvN4h7z0OEN0eG9f0NYpnBn4oqwmljjCJWFOj4hPTLjm8AfVuFfhd3K_-Lo/s1600/cuscotolapaz+259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChT4c7fYSqxuqdK6SvR15au6ezFG7wxNsQghlKm5S5_ixmvc6pBg1IhbeVsSJn4W44bjPz4OKnGk8Kg29HvN4h7z0OEN0eG9f0NYpnBn4oqwmljjCJWFOj4hPTLjm8AfVuFfhd3K_-Lo/s320/cuscotolapaz+259.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> our percussion session: Sonja, Brian, and Tom (also doubling on ukelele)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNdQab_pcplHIA13a9iaOm6Bn1aBn77XpuhYI4QwEkD_QsERiHlD0gaNtALQ0cIGOsGGJBbuoQw4qVSkT2oI0iuu6DnXPeAzPw0Db_4Np4n5uv1f5ApZpb_gMRBut8F3mvz4PfM_T_eo4/s1600/cuscotolapaz+265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNdQab_pcplHIA13a9iaOm6Bn1aBn77XpuhYI4QwEkD_QsERiHlD0gaNtALQ0cIGOsGGJBbuoQw4qVSkT2oI0iuu6DnXPeAzPw0Db_4Np4n5uv1f5ApZpb_gMRBut8F3mvz4PfM_T_eo4/s200/cuscotolapaz+265.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4q9poWFl_GHdio5u80x4EPsV1Y4pHc30HspEghpm41lX5wbS7RuwfrJgef_o6y2svHPVTLJcNs99Ghv70lDZVqU04dn0kufq_AvvI1fRk6fyRA4CpSkbLKdz61aSPhnDLKHWJ26-tK6w/s1600/cuscotolapaz+266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4q9poWFl_GHdio5u80x4EPsV1Y4pHc30HspEghpm41lX5wbS7RuwfrJgef_o6y2svHPVTLJcNs99Ghv70lDZVqU04dn0kufq_AvvI1fRk6fyRA4CpSkbLKdz61aSPhnDLKHWJ26-tK6w/s320/cuscotolapaz+266.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Spoke-N-Strings Band</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2WsjguS4Dm2uulmvjwMUDcbiji2B3E3R2mWBh4MZDF5oGWzPwjNBO5VVH495uGbl_is0WOy1NxeO5BDecrcWJ-1OhDkdT3gMpI06n486-uDJJWg6-fjtVbIIrYf92r564Z91GadXGmMI/s1600/cuscotolapaz+243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2WsjguS4Dm2uulmvjwMUDcbiji2B3E3R2mWBh4MZDF5oGWzPwjNBO5VVH495uGbl_is0WOy1NxeO5BDecrcWJ-1OhDkdT3gMpI06n486-uDJJWg6-fjtVbIIrYf92r564Z91GadXGmMI/s320/cuscotolapaz+243.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Craig was on fire this evening, and had some memorable solos on mandolin and guitar</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigI8nv_ssJ-2Y5EmE1kyS3E3cW9SKvPfCE7lunzc7wJ79oAqk6zkDVr4D9A_BMuEJ3JsQMnARaQqUJRXV03EHfLvNcmzWcCiGA2tfYFWxa8B50XHqMiGpvV5cU7sYWyAJKGH1dAPoAM8o/s1600/cuscotolapaz+268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigI8nv_ssJ-2Y5EmE1kyS3E3cW9SKvPfCE7lunzc7wJ79oAqk6zkDVr4D9A_BMuEJ3JsQMnARaQqUJRXV03EHfLvNcmzWcCiGA2tfYFWxa8B50XHqMiGpvV5cU7sYWyAJKGH1dAPoAM8o/s200/cuscotolapaz+268.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>we didn't get paid, but we received dinner, several jugs of microbrew, and the tips jar. Great fun, great ambience. Playing in bars to be continued in Argentina...</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-26392827751655299792011-11-14T14:37:00.001-10:002011-11-14T14:42:18.692-10:00Segment 46: Cusco, Perú to La Paz, Bolivia (October 17 - October 31, 2011)<div align="center">We ended up staying about 10 days in Cusco, mostly relaxing. Sonja, Tom and Craig went to Macchu Picchu; Jeff and Jason (having already been on previous trips) chose to avoid this increasingly overexploited and expensive tourist area. Cusco turned out to be excellent for live music, with a couple of bands playing reggae and reggae/ska/Andean fusion. Best live music site we have visited since San Cristóbal, Chiapas and Antigua, Guatemala, over one year ago.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLZdK_VP-OdnmvKzwU2VU9UWkmhSk0StSwS77xK0fVccda1LftNGMIuuCKdsizVY1jwMQSX2OiSoWgFMcxj3NHyM9wIzxPEJ968aDfibfaWMMIB6U-nny4MnYJ5ZFQYg3gVdATfd8BQ/s1600/cuscotolapaz+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLZdK_VP-OdnmvKzwU2VU9UWkmhSk0StSwS77xK0fVccda1LftNGMIuuCKdsizVY1jwMQSX2OiSoWgFMcxj3NHyM9wIzxPEJ968aDfibfaWMMIB6U-nny4MnYJ5ZFQYg3gVdATfd8BQ/s200/cuscotolapaz+001.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jason jamming at Hostel Delcy with other travellers</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO4ifyk1tfz-uHqQTr1E-ylNaaYB8nap7tyfpWeIv-zOerK-dWoxzdDffQz1-bkjILsfrd1I1PXyi_AJm637spWuXpHsIXshxzGryIdh-mN8GrwDvdco00af7YgAWsZqpFrUyvfGjNBA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO4ifyk1tfz-uHqQTr1E-ylNaaYB8nap7tyfpWeIv-zOerK-dWoxzdDffQz1-bkjILsfrd1I1PXyi_AJm637spWuXpHsIXshxzGryIdh-mN8GrwDvdco00af7YgAWsZqpFrUyvfGjNBA/s320/cuscotolapaz+008.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>on a day trip above Saqsayhuayman; this group formed from Chilean, Argentinians, Brazilian, Spanish, American, and Peruvians<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwIoVkPTrQub9Bmd0SKOUoaF2iwq-sx42vm7Ba9OS3NqEgLSBo2gFISXmCqcrflvEtk_34ymHhdOuPMGeAH3PJ6mY9l-rT0UCyLSVn-7zZ0j2N_uasWtN3-_ym9km9Z_vXsT7eq5VXFQ/s1600/cuscotolapaz+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwIoVkPTrQub9Bmd0SKOUoaF2iwq-sx42vm7Ba9OS3NqEgLSBo2gFISXmCqcrflvEtk_34ymHhdOuPMGeAH3PJ6mY9l-rT0UCyLSVn-7zZ0j2N_uasWtN3-_ym9km9Z_vXsT7eq5VXFQ/s200/cuscotolapaz+002.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Argentinians are so passionate about mate (national beverage, a tea made from the yerba mate bush) that they will go to extreme lengths to prepare it (especially when outside of Argentina). </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1J5UM_ckn9Dx6Qb0fKkRhqTjcKy7yNTBYBNdV_SxeMKmHH5kpkJ1qTi4LmIFNsg0IA-vwBgYB6SUMQb19rnKeYlpkfIE9466jXoEITZgA5n-17XT-vLewsdCVRwmRZW0sFc0-J0bKvA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1J5UM_ckn9Dx6Qb0fKkRhqTjcKy7yNTBYBNdV_SxeMKmHH5kpkJ1qTi4LmIFNsg0IA-vwBgYB6SUMQb19rnKeYlpkfIE9466jXoEITZgA5n-17XT-vLewsdCVRwmRZW0sFc0-J0bKvA/s320/cuscotolapaz+004.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a panorama of Cusco at dusk</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn67nH-hXkwCWCwnIqpfXo4WyI6ftSOeKQeAmCa8WaRjAm2kIkn3wnRiN_PDgO3ipJBuj1SKjWMJ9cuiwLHOqx8zDTgUhuM0m1foUu9U2ooHS9cKQSJo-R0MvKteTbykdz9QHRUwc6Kw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn67nH-hXkwCWCwnIqpfXo4WyI6ftSOeKQeAmCa8WaRjAm2kIkn3wnRiN_PDgO3ipJBuj1SKjWMJ9cuiwLHOqx8zDTgUhuM0m1foUu9U2ooHS9cKQSJo-R0MvKteTbykdz9QHRUwc6Kw/s200/cuscotolapaz+005.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in the narrow alleys of San Blas (Cusco) at dusk</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj050Zhs4CqXfNUFGT29yd8o5Ce1khuABiaudTGAThFI2lWpobgL7ucAerjCgpuoMrtFXy8nEJZ988vHclOiNmFXSNZygYrHnQgH6oGRlm4aUlm6vBeDpqcM788fyoc6XvEID6mzBrHyQ/s1600/cuscotolapaz+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj050Zhs4CqXfNUFGT29yd8o5Ce1khuABiaudTGAThFI2lWpobgL7ucAerjCgpuoMrtFXy8nEJZ988vHclOiNmFXSNZygYrHnQgH6oGRlm4aUlm6vBeDpqcM788fyoc6XvEID6mzBrHyQ/s320/cuscotolapaz+007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Plaza de Armas in twilight</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGtsqQYLi2oF-1KFKpl5PDm7RlV0xE-Bia7afH7tdidOkXZxLnyO43ROjx1qHLShgXFFbzaIE6t5kAxsvPdOFjk7vK9cPqm2h6Kl4DvCq1Pw9sTSFxFPaUAKS1cICNaOdQdWtwRcDigw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGtsqQYLi2oF-1KFKpl5PDm7RlV0xE-Bia7afH7tdidOkXZxLnyO43ROjx1qHLShgXFFbzaIE6t5kAxsvPdOFjk7vK9cPqm2h6Kl4DvCq1Pw9sTSFxFPaUAKS1cICNaOdQdWtwRcDigw/s200/cuscotolapaz+011.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Jeff and Tom left Cusco ahead of the others. Our first campsite next to a river made for some excellent guitar playing.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEwHioWg7DQkNBLwyjYC5hqLgcYdzm701AWN9injQH5SkLllNmgwwpLziM6MPuYNy5Y8umhECnAyiMKRbJsYlC0JpuXLnhuIYLt1vXbJmgf5E0OQhSmiehyphenhyphen0AT08TSedimB01jtmMnxg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEwHioWg7DQkNBLwyjYC5hqLgcYdzm701AWN9injQH5SkLllNmgwwpLziM6MPuYNy5Y8umhECnAyiMKRbJsYlC0JpuXLnhuIYLt1vXbJmgf5E0OQhSmiehyphenhyphen0AT08TSedimB01jtmMnxg/s400/cuscotolapaz+014.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">wow! bike awareness in Peru, who would have thought??? note the relative flatness of the terrain, first we've seen since northern Colombia!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8WykbIvdOFhOhsSQOtvf9liMkHcBZpX0c91iPxLLTbkOlS6dCxehN0kHRZiRU68xGAxB_MM1AmDkKDgTx8rdjVccz0679aiFRUr_ff9PQfoi3sXaq4hTTZ3W9JtuB4rHLZRrKc9KXgg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8WykbIvdOFhOhsSQOtvf9liMkHcBZpX0c91iPxLLTbkOlS6dCxehN0kHRZiRU68xGAxB_MM1AmDkKDgTx8rdjVccz0679aiFRUr_ff9PQfoi3sXaq4hTTZ3W9JtuB4rHLZRrKc9KXgg/s320/cuscotolapaz+013.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>... the landscapes heading east from Cusco...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhipqM1uBDvNP7Mc4n6jBIerEdnM6VxrRMJUGvOgY3D8DKethLZmux40zjr4Iy9FhR9BPNeBnOU63SYiSXmwON7oPG64isnKqMpfkbZHxhhP6pvPBGAuodBFvvzsqsbJ7pAybtJo0hYA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhipqM1uBDvNP7Mc4n6jBIerEdnM6VxrRMJUGvOgY3D8DKethLZmux40zjr4Iy9FhR9BPNeBnOU63SYiSXmwON7oPG64isnKqMpfkbZHxhhP6pvPBGAuodBFvvzsqsbJ7pAybtJo0hYA/s320/cuscotolapaz+020.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIyl8il_lw_QfRti2d-YP8zPmwPZ1w4dA7OVPU-qBT5h-t1YUp99VGar7ump_lNvqw3e0Ht8GKSoQ0F8fOICVLx22DXNBYlzGbGGzXjQNampCRNSuvhesXGM4-l-iG29qfrzLssN9tg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIyl8il_lw_QfRti2d-YP8zPmwPZ1w4dA7OVPU-qBT5h-t1YUp99VGar7ump_lNvqw3e0Ht8GKSoQ0F8fOICVLx22DXNBYlzGbGGzXjQNampCRNSuvhesXGM4-l-iG29qfrzLssN9tg/s200/cuscotolapaz+023.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>... this stop, 175km from Cusco and locally known as Aguas Calientes, is a cyclist's dream. 24-hour, nearly-free (3 soles/$1.25 per person) thermal baths. Incredible. We also talked them into letting us sleep in an empty room in the hostal for free. We soaked for hours in the evening and again in the morning before heading on...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFk4v5OUPd_T2NkSfsqL3s4cWpcn78BUkI47huM_7xorRphTbP145zA4oG-GzAKc070iK67iYugDNpoduDTF_oERKaD28Z3LhTtUgIiXCgC3-0ieqaRc5NcWdinpC7jU_BYL2iFNv_Pw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFk4v5OUPd_T2NkSfsqL3s4cWpcn78BUkI47huM_7xorRphTbP145zA4oG-GzAKc070iK67iYugDNpoduDTF_oERKaD28Z3LhTtUgIiXCgC3-0ieqaRc5NcWdinpC7jU_BYL2iFNv_Pw/s320/cuscotolapaz+022.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fNdPvTrE9jAFx-0IEodl16A3hR0cbp5BsOkihyphenhyphen8cZtzJCFU3nc6F3e6cfpbDKImGV8tu_FD1pztGcGNKCVRrm74SQNH9qgAv83ciVUcKOvoCXZ0xMPEUSnN2xJ4YfLsK-3_scVWuhQ/s1600/cuscotolapaz+024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2fNdPvTrE9jAFx-0IEodl16A3hR0cbp5BsOkihyphenhyphen8cZtzJCFU3nc6F3e6cfpbDKImGV8tu_FD1pztGcGNKCVRrm74SQNH9qgAv83ciVUcKOvoCXZ0xMPEUSnN2xJ4YfLsK-3_scVWuhQ/s320/cuscotolapaz+024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>... nearing Abra La Raya, fighting huge headwinds, we encountered a huge herd of alpacas, recently shorn...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMPLEGySk4boNr00JP_uggSc_G0CEUWt3s76EKifpywji7xfYUXtgx8Rk8tbpSSZDPkqaYEjXee9exlCCR1Is2jicBftSjayn25OQwQDyAURo9ZVPkWXTMf_-RgQndO7dU4736pQqSA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMPLEGySk4boNr00JP_uggSc_G0CEUWt3s76EKifpywji7xfYUXtgx8Rk8tbpSSZDPkqaYEjXee9exlCCR1Is2jicBftSjayn25OQwQDyAURo9ZVPkWXTMf_-RgQndO7dU4736pQqSA/s200/cuscotolapaz+025.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNtL4c7KnkQN6W8XnC_lFmCZgboI6x7AJrUFc0YIXOYzgMhP50SvGkuxvm9PHhvKw1COZR4GGwCrausQ_mlqvQrnRQjmE5nRha5jN9uKMuKzqfnyBmSls6O5oh56cbC3ZIaTC1Lk0y1A/s1600/cuscotolapaz+027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNtL4c7KnkQN6W8XnC_lFmCZgboI6x7AJrUFc0YIXOYzgMhP50SvGkuxvm9PHhvKw1COZR4GGwCrausQ_mlqvQrnRQjmE5nRha5jN9uKMuKzqfnyBmSls6O5oh56cbC3ZIaTC1Lk0y1A/s400/cuscotolapaz+027.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>... alpacas are much smaller and lighter than their llama cousins...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT2GeqYiX3ODQxk6oyL7mue1CSIJiHBb7T3gAH6jeDFCS915axCWZtEJ6Z5FQ1Ioo-IsnXRa_WIIs3pVAqyd4pYIi8E04McmTFjSNDrngAsc05-7KACJx1K0I-6jxvnSxlmKDRU3COmA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT2GeqYiX3ODQxk6oyL7mue1CSIJiHBb7T3gAH6jeDFCS915axCWZtEJ6Z5FQ1Ioo-IsnXRa_WIIs3pVAqyd4pYIi8E04McmTFjSNDrngAsc05-7KACJx1K0I-6jxvnSxlmKDRU3COmA/s200/cuscotolapaz+028.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9YqXJElssOeLv57YTl8M_TftkUGWLeXMI5O-iuSFOrtd8bzDQrB15FkEBfPoNU3fTI2YrbUX6c64yd0wwZ5cGinB8f9rEctGopakL__sf4md6MY3cfkiwIP6mYBPgRxjBWpnMb8O5RQ/s1600/cuscotolapaz+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9YqXJElssOeLv57YTl8M_TftkUGWLeXMI5O-iuSFOrtd8bzDQrB15FkEBfPoNU3fTI2YrbUX6c64yd0wwZ5cGinB8f9rEctGopakL__sf4md6MY3cfkiwIP6mYBPgRxjBWpnMb8O5RQ/s400/cuscotolapaz+029.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Tom approaching Abra La Raya (4300m) with magnificent scenery<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpEQIk3qH-f7L5mHQpdOtjSPLfKnGeHYyCaCqCIKvVaT-2ajvFzRS2ecY_QSiEZOTHtLu-zLc_kJRsKhPdJKGifa1nOk7x7mEiuzmV6YHPhx7skWgX7G_qbI6jx1iBIyk8pzCOEcTKw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpEQIk3qH-f7L5mHQpdOtjSPLfKnGeHYyCaCqCIKvVaT-2ajvFzRS2ecY_QSiEZOTHtLu-zLc_kJRsKhPdJKGifa1nOk7x7mEiuzmV6YHPhx7skWgX7G_qbI6jx1iBIyk8pzCOEcTKw/s320/cuscotolapaz+034.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">church seen at Abra La Raya</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg__7NQIKEK6o4jcDqyf1h42NwoBoWC_ftHbG9aH1D3H9tQ_0R9QA3pW_zKvG4PQhm2j-7B9dWlP5p5FckFQihWISUzTZOrWip1cC8drSzs2qv2UMmjhg0yCgdaiKky6-0hKcxFGM6-3w/s1600/cuscotolapaz+036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg__7NQIKEK6o4jcDqyf1h42NwoBoWC_ftHbG9aH1D3H9tQ_0R9QA3pW_zKvG4PQhm2j-7B9dWlP5p5FckFQihWISUzTZOrWip1cC8drSzs2qv2UMmjhg0yCgdaiKky6-0hKcxFGM6-3w/s320/cuscotolapaz+036.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">descending, but with a strong headwind we had to pedal alot</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5I8uu0w2ZJkmDUqtp8o5NIyxM5g0dc7JfST66IurfFYw_TDqcVdfXnXbypGdGWLOaUIHWC55kQrU0oRsT_CwBVQIU7DBRt3buZFtDgyyVvk2EVbYTYC-jbrnCQv7JNhqJ71Y5XZHwRA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5I8uu0w2ZJkmDUqtp8o5NIyxM5g0dc7JfST66IurfFYw_TDqcVdfXnXbypGdGWLOaUIHWC55kQrU0oRsT_CwBVQIU7DBRt3buZFtDgyyVvk2EVbYTYC-jbrnCQv7JNhqJ71Y5XZHwRA/s200/cuscotolapaz+037.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom entertains local kids in Santa Rosa</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7GcHmjlA48PcfktkK3q8GRvtF_tor912gtmig67K8yrU9hytcqr5krVlme9Eb1l1N4qeG93SL4PU6GflVtUvptT75NJD9am8uneSZ1h05-B4C3yxOCjfEBU0PLmazrFJSO0Vib3G_w/s1600/cuscotolapaz+039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI7GcHmjlA48PcfktkK3q8GRvtF_tor912gtmig67K8yrU9hytcqr5krVlme9Eb1l1N4qeG93SL4PU6GflVtUvptT75NJD9am8uneSZ1h05-B4C3yxOCjfEBU0PLmazrFJSO0Vib3G_w/s320/cuscotolapaz+039.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">dusk riding brought us onto the altiplano, huge spreading plateau lands at nearly 4000m</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgogaM464ldFkBIrK8ulDeSRaHeHtk8s7RH2bX3qGQ9ZKLvKdTKvrEQc7-Zr4Bxlng6zG-Ac69lwFeTofDJvLqb2ClH6XS_0T0jZ5OAzoRLaOvZmEqh0zXfFaJ6F_1sW68sb2zXfQ_B4g/s1600/cuscotolapaz+042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgogaM464ldFkBIrK8ulDeSRaHeHtk8s7RH2bX3qGQ9ZKLvKdTKvrEQc7-Zr4Bxlng6zG-Ac69lwFeTofDJvLqb2ClH6XS_0T0jZ5OAzoRLaOvZmEqh0zXfFaJ6F_1sW68sb2zXfQ_B4g/s320/cuscotolapaz+042.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we camped next to the railway on the altiplano, a freezing cold night, coldest on the bike since northern Mexico in January 2010. Awoke with frozen water bottles.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK0VI0rjeEFWTcQ268IlBdxxRq9NyNgV7BygiLd5PuRKimbzuKAESRHPvDjBJ91HRQSeJrhOIJpVy0nslc5lTXzoVI-tUU6zkEKMi3yqOIfHXaGQcH6pcyaEW9KKSiIw74D054J7atxg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK0VI0rjeEFWTcQ268IlBdxxRq9NyNgV7BygiLd5PuRKimbzuKAESRHPvDjBJ91HRQSeJrhOIJpVy0nslc5lTXzoVI-tUU6zkEKMi3yqOIfHXaGQcH6pcyaEW9KKSiIw74D054J7atxg/s320/cuscotolapaz+044.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">remoteness is the norm on the altiplano</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUFddlC3VBy_5ipuS6Tn-CEtLzKAYnfstwNPHrIzolphdWQTSoO44bO7bpPye8JhJCVVXXn5UWH55Vuk1EtSSk-9LaeDdZDQVWB9DrqPFabBzOp2we6LTPZ1pAf5qfbHKfaPV5bBYzwQ/s1600/cuscotolapaz+048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUFddlC3VBy_5ipuS6Tn-CEtLzKAYnfstwNPHrIzolphdWQTSoO44bO7bpPye8JhJCVVXXn5UWH55Vuk1EtSSk-9LaeDdZDQVWB9DrqPFabBzOp2we6LTPZ1pAf5qfbHKfaPV5bBYzwQ/s400/cuscotolapaz+048.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we opted for a dirt road cutoff that took us through Lampa. Amazing riding here.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVovTi3G4HNYDuWrmVSdAjH_dHOix0U5L_epLsOoCPt4qGGPE79w-0q2jIbOB_G_l46Icg2398s7TBdTwN54i-y0X8h8oev6FVkF9Xv_mPF3zZK13psLcNnXP1Rh-dNooM7iuuS6M2bg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVovTi3G4HNYDuWrmVSdAjH_dHOix0U5L_epLsOoCPt4qGGPE79w-0q2jIbOB_G_l46Icg2398s7TBdTwN54i-y0X8h8oev6FVkF9Xv_mPF3zZK13psLcNnXP1Rh-dNooM7iuuS6M2bg/s320/cuscotolapaz+046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">modest local homes</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPYK7s6uzNDR_eyyN16rC2kq0uVrxR14lULNKNrJouI3TAYbymPCPLLu2dYkbpNgAuWOIdemrleYVw6ta6Qwogw5nfDQxSebdJhJVPN8V_rrH-x-YWPstimoV2Kir3xaVOriWnE62xGw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPYK7s6uzNDR_eyyN16rC2kq0uVrxR14lULNKNrJouI3TAYbymPCPLLu2dYkbpNgAuWOIdemrleYVw6ta6Qwogw5nfDQxSebdJhJVPN8V_rrH-x-YWPstimoV2Kir3xaVOriWnE62xGw/s320/cuscotolapaz+051.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... we had to climb a bit on this stretch of dirt, but the ensuing descent was great...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpmzZAI1N6qdtTVpNCTrxK6CzdoBdj-Hh_gS0wMPdZDgsWdIgLnTVJwMobg6yCAVycLh_NLjrB5kyZ4luxPIpie7Po4jK4PYBVn4_1fLNx11n1HSsUflUKXMnp-e8qSe004TpmkuMqg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpmzZAI1N6qdtTVpNCTrxK6CzdoBdj-Hh_gS0wMPdZDgsWdIgLnTVJwMobg6yCAVycLh_NLjrB5kyZ4luxPIpie7Po4jK4PYBVn4_1fLNx11n1HSsUflUKXMnp-e8qSe004TpmkuMqg/s400/cuscotolapaz+055.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLiecVmL8e_EY9yXm4TDX7SARDNuMYWwoAuYiyLhhxTh_uauFfoVZfx4mdusezIhhwj-JDWumkN7YfDnmOpjLBXhtIYhuMYumP9M3T6CEOJ17f1mMdJiF6T2U0NMc2sND27ficwlH8Rw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLiecVmL8e_EY9yXm4TDX7SARDNuMYWwoAuYiyLhhxTh_uauFfoVZfx4mdusezIhhwj-JDWumkN7YfDnmOpjLBXhtIYhuMYumP9M3T6CEOJ17f1mMdJiF6T2U0NMc2sND27ficwlH8Rw/s320/cuscotolapaz+056.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">dusk between Lampa and Juliaca</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZLgAApBvP1FnutHK2H70WIa8NlNp8pS9jNBXtop8a-IoM92kklU0qzq8yONmgpxkm_w3mXFVca_RDKRO1U7PpyBVu4USNGCQwbNyxnRegHvciJSnVf99GdSBdWzmW0GKQClfgLYnfpE/s1600/cuscotolapaz+057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZLgAApBvP1FnutHK2H70WIa8NlNp8pS9jNBXtop8a-IoM92kklU0qzq8yONmgpxkm_w3mXFVca_RDKRO1U7PpyBVu4USNGCQwbNyxnRegHvciJSnVf99GdSBdWzmW0GKQClfgLYnfpE/s320/cuscotolapaz+057.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we camped in the yard of an abandoned house outside of Juliaca</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVcOsHw-F2cldY5EG06UM7dceZ6KZad49AyLVmY5AnW828kkddVDza0-p2R0EItF6dMNyzINs3003n4eZkKic2f4wtQjNCFKQkPd1VPVLtEG7EP-trbs4-kRbzJL2n62rxuBqN6SYXh4A/s1600/cuscotolapaz+059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVcOsHw-F2cldY5EG06UM7dceZ6KZad49AyLVmY5AnW828kkddVDza0-p2R0EItF6dMNyzINs3003n4eZkKic2f4wtQjNCFKQkPd1VPVLtEG7EP-trbs4-kRbzJL2n62rxuBqN6SYXh4A/s320/cuscotolapaz+059.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">entering Juliaca, the scene was reminiscent of Armageddon... ugly, trash everywhere, construction projects abandoned and in heaps, flat, smelling of refuse and sewage; on the whole: disturbing.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8hlib6YTE7b_leE1oPZ9VUPl6g87BiFcImw3WJjqYocqMzOpN-FJ7YvoCTv1Ey0XPlCIZywgrL9OOu3IFUcHQylNp-WMrRdh27mGj3VejKddzV0BmdPHqm62aqdqbhhDsdf9Iq4MLvPw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8hlib6YTE7b_leE1oPZ9VUPl6g87BiFcImw3WJjqYocqMzOpN-FJ7YvoCTv1Ey0XPlCIZywgrL9OOu3IFUcHQylNp-WMrRdh27mGj3VejKddzV0BmdPHqm62aqdqbhhDsdf9Iq4MLvPw/s320/cuscotolapaz+060.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...exiting Juliaca... what has to be the ugliest and most blasted area we have seen on the whole trip, topping Fairbanks, AK; Fort Nelson, B.C., Grand Prairie, Alberta, etc....</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSscnxwLGgXaLKQNkSEjl9Bxfm9k7QSqlBxuuvFmw7Yti87gvj28wjV3f76rGE8AQdYV3Lwa6n_kGg_s76_AHO7oVMP5gTOgiqo7w2Cp4FMeO07yJF5EO7zhmfSb6Foi8MksM5IwhQVHU/s1600/cuscotolapaz+062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSscnxwLGgXaLKQNkSEjl9Bxfm9k7QSqlBxuuvFmw7Yti87gvj28wjV3f76rGE8AQdYV3Lwa6n_kGg_s76_AHO7oVMP5gTOgiqo7w2Cp4FMeO07yJF5EO7zhmfSb6Foi8MksM5IwhQVHU/s320/cuscotolapaz+062.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">lots of traffic on this bit, not our preference</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicMU5QVNBzMTDP9_zujcFbyqNYORJxFrjXiTCWngqbfNyo5XIyFqujke7iJSBpkm_zMIwV53AK_iziHe7J4G_RgZB82EwB0YAFanRYG9eFMemmbmpFxoubMKYomHDhY08-b1l9i3Lmzqs/s1600/cuscotolapaz+063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicMU5QVNBzMTDP9_zujcFbyqNYORJxFrjXiTCWngqbfNyo5XIyFqujke7iJSBpkm_zMIwV53AK_iziHe7J4G_RgZB82EwB0YAFanRYG9eFMemmbmpFxoubMKYomHDhY08-b1l9i3Lmzqs/s320/cuscotolapaz+063.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">as we near Puno, this sign reads: "Ollanta, Puno rejects you, you are a Chavista" (socialist dictator in the mold of Venezuela's Hugo Chavez). Actually, Ollanta has only been in office for a few months and his politics are as yet undetermined, according to Peruvians we have spoken with.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfAJn9UP8PdAOm-xJwA3cFQF955euvZkBhEQjT6UZtlO85VgkAXcGc8g6ociCseFbeLNwLod5PHOdQa2WCLWo8WCGzMv7OX4t4cXSYVgZcv2AsHFNcCBDtAtm2yTubsXJpyb2svYZLFQ8/s1600/cuscotolapaz+066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfAJn9UP8PdAOm-xJwA3cFQF955euvZkBhEQjT6UZtlO85VgkAXcGc8g6ociCseFbeLNwLod5PHOdQa2WCLWo8WCGzMv7OX4t4cXSYVgZcv2AsHFNcCBDtAtm2yTubsXJpyb2svYZLFQ8/s320/cuscotolapaz+066.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">potato farming on the far edges of Lake Titicaca, which separates Peru and Bolivia</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK1n8u0zct7bpAOEfhxxcGIfkxh535jdRyxF1JZWpuKcUBzndp0DdQ7YJ9jwB4rdPZAN_W3Hy-tmLoRC2gpu7q0LsgzpIqeYjIDhavamtLadvQ3wIurHmbI-T_w72zzcOAJW2MtFU39Dg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK1n8u0zct7bpAOEfhxxcGIfkxh535jdRyxF1JZWpuKcUBzndp0DdQ7YJ9jwB4rdPZAN_W3Hy-tmLoRC2gpu7q0LsgzpIqeYjIDhavamtLadvQ3wIurHmbI-T_w72zzcOAJW2MtFU39Dg/s400/cuscotolapaz+065.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0mghqvDUXc0pB67cvKpuibmy-UwMzNjEaUCsn8vM_lb4J3e8FM0cFNBdfnIQFLevDyrvrhmnUNWKt8ADhp44JuiskLhdW0Cnq0prEqhLFKJ5CMlsZ5BSKZonSxkAmjk4MvundaWLkjw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE0mghqvDUXc0pB67cvKpuibmy-UwMzNjEaUCsn8vM_lb4J3e8FM0cFNBdfnIQFLevDyrvrhmnUNWKt8ADhp44JuiskLhdW0Cnq0prEqhLFKJ5CMlsZ5BSKZonSxkAmjk4MvundaWLkjw/s200/cuscotolapaz+068.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Puno, while seemingly anti-Ollanta, is pro-Keiko from the looks of things. Keiko Fujimori lost the recent elections. Curiously enough, she is the daughter of ex-president Alberto Fujimori, currently in prison for stealing lots of money from the Peruvian treasury.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHSnQz6PZ0E4IE80imDd47lhxFxafzMw-bTXLai4P70VbRz_0fLSusaKhYylwGfNHydnbOcYGJYblMllSpPiIB2tyL7vlpZCbZ24iZhuNhwC-fDFrc4mOoIk6YCjZxZi3IU32k13BPnkU/s1600/cuscotolapaz+075.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHSnQz6PZ0E4IE80imDd47lhxFxafzMw-bTXLai4P70VbRz_0fLSusaKhYylwGfNHydnbOcYGJYblMllSpPiIB2tyL7vlpZCbZ24iZhuNhwC-fDFrc4mOoIk6YCjZxZi3IU32k13BPnkU/s200/cuscotolapaz+075.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Keiko</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3mkraH4UJ6rQD5Rk6I7C5HOoaHMORXw1_hZS19L4DbDg9gGwj1xguzY0L8vhixiDWPuw3UTYXndgG_-b7V0QHu-Mi_xK8bLFQwMs236mPYW95dzovF3mQw-ZU7GhwcToYk_Qm7IxuqA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3mkraH4UJ6rQD5Rk6I7C5HOoaHMORXw1_hZS19L4DbDg9gGwj1xguzY0L8vhixiDWPuw3UTYXndgG_-b7V0QHu-Mi_xK8bLFQwMs236mPYW95dzovF3mQw-ZU7GhwcToYk_Qm7IxuqA/s200/cuscotolapaz+016.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>... more political voting symbols, from Inka above to pan flutes below...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIBU88xS7eZIjMU6BwIopZtOq87YCPOi4CvgOvhmpywhom3EfAhhVqvXdo4i29wDzCeFQvynHM2VnSRY0I6z9Z_JhN9cF2l_rz32cJQPxXWyKW3_46O89Dr-FZdLVKpwoX961fKPSU7g/s1600/cuscotolapaz+067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIBU88xS7eZIjMU6BwIopZtOq87YCPOi4CvgOvhmpywhom3EfAhhVqvXdo4i29wDzCeFQvynHM2VnSRY0I6z9Z_JhN9cF2l_rz32cJQPxXWyKW3_46O89Dr-FZdLVKpwoX961fKPSU7g/s200/cuscotolapaz+067.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnp0btQ7IXY5X-VVTrhanGzeRhixGQF5CDo_GmwoToOWn20OLixrD3orkxLnjO8LcgH5vo9sUAZ0KKHyWRSdCoZ4lOZSgWhFp_Tl4_Y6qKR9wd8gzvaq2IIUqzIGcmSvrsZPADYARovTU/s1600/cuscotolapaz+081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnp0btQ7IXY5X-VVTrhanGzeRhixGQF5CDo_GmwoToOWn20OLixrD3orkxLnjO8LcgH5vo9sUAZ0KKHyWRSdCoZ4lOZSgWhFp_Tl4_Y6qKR9wd8gzvaq2IIUqzIGcmSvrsZPADYARovTU/s200/cuscotolapaz+081.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>... shovels (labor) above and coca leaves below...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHDPyGKfq6ah1TiOjDDxxY-EZ7eA5NdYVYxSE-2yO8nUl4RrEGq86zOQNkQB3tmJ-TvC4upai5zEq70tbL9u6zMvIoKtVDwhN9StomBljBJPdCN53FUBlBqpDvMCUYaGdwInHJUDlDo4s/s1600/cuscotolapaz+094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHDPyGKfq6ah1TiOjDDxxY-EZ7eA5NdYVYxSE-2yO8nUl4RrEGq86zOQNkQB3tmJ-TvC4upai5zEq70tbL9u6zMvIoKtVDwhN9StomBljBJPdCN53FUBlBqpDvMCUYaGdwInHJUDlDo4s/s200/cuscotolapaz+094.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3EUsxRrq2959m-_PWhP2ArDTCp0bhvTXg6ktNQhjiaDJJaFAdWBk2slQDoukvDTRtImsLiAwBfBvu0HnDGVpUlrVkGYbMEEhyfZ5mZj3Og4gaBcb_NFtmdSM342VC09KkSWKmMXfTTYA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3EUsxRrq2959m-_PWhP2ArDTCp0bhvTXg6ktNQhjiaDJJaFAdWBk2slQDoukvDTRtImsLiAwBfBvu0HnDGVpUlrVkGYbMEEhyfZ5mZj3Og4gaBcb_NFtmdSM342VC09KkSWKmMXfTTYA/s400/cuscotolapaz+069.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>... Puno seen from above at the entrance to the city, sitting on the edge of enormous Lake Titicaca...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYe7sP7lQJDGDvb1KK9O3C-MSfk2pJBHtlx9cSsygBOcoGu8QKzHkvtxT6HgzwEuIojBzVbaeEWjzA7XH0O4mGGiX64v7gKrUkkc1RNRZg8Fmhg5UqGnoMlqxISI3THLyR68tDONXycg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYe7sP7lQJDGDvb1KK9O3C-MSfk2pJBHtlx9cSsygBOcoGu8QKzHkvtxT6HgzwEuIojBzVbaeEWjzA7XH0O4mGGiX64v7gKrUkkc1RNRZg8Fmhg5UqGnoMlqxISI3THLyR68tDONXycg/s400/cuscotolapaz+072.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJsCljn3_rpecpTmbbeqlI8NHbRyRXRsKjyFoZ42lwd-n7gGWYcIbHmAoPxs3DlVa7eleZqmY3yr4uT3MQ2RYzsX9hodxg5EcanUxsTDokyY38B5iXkicJC53kEwi82ELgSzTdjKPRxk/s1600/cuscotolapaz+073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJsCljn3_rpecpTmbbeqlI8NHbRyRXRsKjyFoZ42lwd-n7gGWYcIbHmAoPxs3DlVa7eleZqmY3yr4uT3MQ2RYzsX9hodxg5EcanUxsTDokyY38B5iXkicJC53kEwi82ELgSzTdjKPRxk/s200/cuscotolapaz+073.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">indigenous lady seen at park above Puno</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj38Yqcc0Y2dZHCKJ0-_EjMLfTIoCch1GYsPPYHWDIAxTniJwyKnJdqzNe-0qpbdD_jcPMNlWwLAAzWhw-W6c7BqcKAbm2NsM7TAVZOuBhLiG2-tW3K3oRm0WCgKn_pu2UXj7nEDWg91jU/s1600/cuscotolapaz+079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj38Yqcc0Y2dZHCKJ0-_EjMLfTIoCch1GYsPPYHWDIAxTniJwyKnJdqzNe-0qpbdD_jcPMNlWwLAAzWhw-W6c7BqcKAbm2NsM7TAVZOuBhLiG2-tW3K3oRm0WCgKn_pu2UXj7nEDWg91jU/s320/cuscotolapaz+079.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">dusk in the flatlands heading east from Puno</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3qYKSZnOGVmfvEUb-OR7GW4C-2HegxBu02UxmI-er_GKpdQ_34ZMgDOwsi0H8o1oAEhq3Op3GKUR5svxXZfXyZQ255KbJS5Y_I8vEd-IR6uWoJKvGtHO7enf9cr8Eamf_MyScWjQgAfI/s1600/cuscotolapaz+083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3qYKSZnOGVmfvEUb-OR7GW4C-2HegxBu02UxmI-er_GKpdQ_34ZMgDOwsi0H8o1oAEhq3Op3GKUR5svxXZfXyZQ255KbJS5Y_I8vEd-IR6uWoJKvGtHO7enf9cr8Eamf_MyScWjQgAfI/s320/cuscotolapaz+083.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>... the following day we followed the south edge of Titicaca, with perfect weather and gorgeous panoramas...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjA4OEWHkR44tUYuUTM3v53UaJqI0o3Qov2_2b0hVIRh5GHCBf6f9ESH5aNqFiBHdPlSsk4Bxbh3lOXF4G2Pwo5qy179VNxk0dgd14gm7Hht-DTML-XBoENe4nCHQ3yw9_S5EKHcA1ak/s1600/cuscotolapaz+084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjA4OEWHkR44tUYuUTM3v53UaJqI0o3Qov2_2b0hVIRh5GHCBf6f9ESH5aNqFiBHdPlSsk4Bxbh3lOXF4G2Pwo5qy179VNxk0dgd14gm7Hht-DTML-XBoENe4nCHQ3yw9_S5EKHcA1ak/s320/cuscotolapaz+084.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">trout weirs in Lake Titicaca</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivRZaQFjLsdRRJ45heO4iqjXX4X677GjvaAivY6rP_cEWHc1PXVRKpsxcM0AxcLXeq0RwNxCGzwzCoeZy5tulL00OTLbDLgUwqMefPkm1cVqBOHQvYBipyFasiGwxl1hlyC6ZszSxDreA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivRZaQFjLsdRRJ45heO4iqjXX4X677GjvaAivY6rP_cEWHc1PXVRKpsxcM0AxcLXeq0RwNxCGzwzCoeZy5tulL00OTLbDLgUwqMefPkm1cVqBOHQvYBipyFasiGwxl1hlyC6ZszSxDreA/s320/cuscotolapaz+088.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>lakeside duck<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigovAcot2B7pspW34e_kiU_sG81BZWq-uUtEk9kPaEV1sAcx7xOmzWsvgxY7Ur-XnxB3krBShyxzapLFDg3zmTVeFgldREOc8C14dQA0TngeKAJ1P7xhPKudiUiCTl_lY47oeDjwyjiew/s1600/cuscotolapaz+089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigovAcot2B7pspW34e_kiU_sG81BZWq-uUtEk9kPaEV1sAcx7xOmzWsvgxY7Ur-XnxB3krBShyxzapLFDg3zmTVeFgldREOc8C14dQA0TngeKAJ1P7xhPKudiUiCTl_lY47oeDjwyjiew/s320/cuscotolapaz+089.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>... the Titicaca region is fascinating for its campesino culture and lifestyle... the area is far from remotely populated, as there are countless villages and towns all along the lake...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBllmpuhm3oHPziljaKZuB0gJLdLGAgbJdtbpYfWNQrlKfZxydv14EcAMbs_DyMQVZZv1nqvgeEgREuUbR5Ot7LCGFX_jcHGHSUWIj7I_o3Yn-IeowaC-PJT1vqYK_jMpPBUlMpOvGqG8/s1600/cuscotolapaz+090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBllmpuhm3oHPziljaKZuB0gJLdLGAgbJdtbpYfWNQrlKfZxydv14EcAMbs_DyMQVZZv1nqvgeEgREuUbR5Ot7LCGFX_jcHGHSUWIj7I_o3Yn-IeowaC-PJT1vqYK_jMpPBUlMpOvGqG8/s320/cuscotolapaz+090.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Mil3hG8KPBE4ILOShETTTQCIwIOj5L7nFJYgfWQ1drdEb7Jwdy1sH0Hx-AaZpW5SW72roA284lBeIByOUkOrdHdz_vMt8pttEsUWA_4tcT47VtMwaNF9H3kgNduV8iBf1zdg7_m3ow4/s1600/cuscotolapaz+091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Mil3hG8KPBE4ILOShETTTQCIwIOj5L7nFJYgfWQ1drdEb7Jwdy1sH0Hx-AaZpW5SW72roA284lBeIByOUkOrdHdz_vMt8pttEsUWA_4tcT47VtMwaNF9H3kgNduV8iBf1zdg7_m3ow4/s400/cuscotolapaz+091.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Hei5JaYM2AWuiSdQLezt3NAeWM4h2Vxjh3K4X-0LwFDeXT9oCrUnmVz-ECEjhiffZqRJepMdfZYgHFii4FDAywq43cekTwM3TgFAOLrkAdgYpOP2qIizhvHmerO6ak0VFSMd9LE0tV0/s1600/cuscotolapaz+092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Hei5JaYM2AWuiSdQLezt3NAeWM4h2Vxjh3K4X-0LwFDeXT9oCrUnmVz-ECEjhiffZqRJepMdfZYgHFii4FDAywq43cekTwM3TgFAOLrkAdgYpOP2qIizhvHmerO6ak0VFSMd9LE0tV0/s320/cuscotolapaz+092.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">these sheep are being taken to market, tied to the roof West Africa-style</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkRe4tSbsUTdpqqk5NsmTJyACczV4xZ3CuJsx1RJi1EuND34BC7qZOxLVpZB52AcVZhy74FuwlWqRA_Ef61naSDRDARg93zG_qH4PNJb-qkQ1ZjA-OwQcIBFi88v2_rvoXEGb2UcHiX2Y/s1600/cuscotolapaz+093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkRe4tSbsUTdpqqk5NsmTJyACczV4xZ3CuJsx1RJi1EuND34BC7qZOxLVpZB52AcVZhy74FuwlWqRA_Ef61naSDRDARg93zG_qH4PNJb-qkQ1ZjA-OwQcIBFi88v2_rvoXEGb2UcHiX2Y/s200/cuscotolapaz+093.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">trout encountered at Pomata. Fresh, local, huge, cheap (8 soles, or less than 3 dollars) and delicious. This fish was served with a huge bed of potatoes, chuño (dried black potatoes), and fava beans. One of our best meals in Peru.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwynGXNVO8C-Fuwehyphenhyphenz3xIsNMOB97FQ9Y1OV0A4De42mwAKbEqBaL4a_031L7a-9i_nVZEjot94WroSb-Y5odHMwi-DuHakbdS3blAgRm4JPz1HEA9H9Wmg32XXrltZ1GR5_2Ixi09G5E/s1600/cuscotolapaz+095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwynGXNVO8C-Fuwehyphenhyphenz3xIsNMOB97FQ9Y1OV0A4De42mwAKbEqBaL4a_031L7a-9i_nVZEjot94WroSb-Y5odHMwi-DuHakbdS3blAgRm4JPz1HEA9H9Wmg32XXrltZ1GR5_2Ixi09G5E/s320/cuscotolapaz+095.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>... market day not far from Pomata. We were the only foreigners around, the place was swollen with brightly-dressed indigenous women. Below is the animal market, where the women tried to convince us to buy and carry sheep on our bikes....<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbkzlmc1d3Nlk123zkrR0_4Ezc_yPuFoAVeiqwnTJIQgw-820NCHEynRJnJUV8c_VLs0xb4NyTcPNQbDX8v0-8EckEPYR2spo1rSs3K0Vm_n4CtGAFaOJqHljxrpFac9L3-ZM4PTa5iM/s1600/cuscotolapaz+097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbkzlmc1d3Nlk123zkrR0_4Ezc_yPuFoAVeiqwnTJIQgw-820NCHEynRJnJUV8c_VLs0xb4NyTcPNQbDX8v0-8EckEPYR2spo1rSs3K0Vm_n4CtGAFaOJqHljxrpFac9L3-ZM4PTa5iM/s320/cuscotolapaz+097.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjekbiANjh9Qji-uTDfUGcSrDRm11XdoYSHM1cTzw3xBo2lN8OOEi84yX3MGrRi3BG3a06p2zlBCeMCDztc3cuqdjLuBAOjnMihUUjZj-rSzVBlJU9CscFHKNwCPP0TxDoi4JLYX2yn64/s1600/cuscotolapaz+103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjekbiANjh9Qji-uTDfUGcSrDRm11XdoYSHM1cTzw3xBo2lN8OOEi84yX3MGrRi3BG3a06p2zlBCeMCDztc3cuqdjLuBAOjnMihUUjZj-rSzVBlJU9CscFHKNwCPP0TxDoi4JLYX2yn64/s200/cuscotolapaz+103.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>taking a break on the way to the Bolivian border<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitEdKwKInPTSjTCJWXhXUK5UYQzJVlI17A1aVN1aziysEOYS1AkADTYXZRbsDCLXhElMPmHeDNh_F4yh6tdzFzxPJhJSuiN7QMm82MH-B33_r6qShAmx2QUf7JyvBkLKU_F-RSU1_0eTE/s1600/cuscotolapaz+102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitEdKwKInPTSjTCJWXhXUK5UYQzJVlI17A1aVN1aziysEOYS1AkADTYXZRbsDCLXhElMPmHeDNh_F4yh6tdzFzxPJhJSuiN7QMm82MH-B33_r6qShAmx2QUf7JyvBkLKU_F-RSU1_0eTE/s320/cuscotolapaz+102.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">these boys were interested in Tom's guitar playing</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDRXTvHrVljeWT3xm8ecmJLRbX33WqVVHDAs5-sfwWA9XLPrQfMoGJTSm1eJSBIJM6m6x3bVlYqm5OUXfk8idd4FPzmxkwZDemVH1JrTN56mVaHGcEWY7o60YTpyUIp3iWMpvDeFN5BYY/s1600/cuscotolapaz+104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDRXTvHrVljeWT3xm8ecmJLRbX33WqVVHDAs5-sfwWA9XLPrQfMoGJTSm1eJSBIJM6m6x3bVlYqm5OUXfk8idd4FPzmxkwZDemVH1JrTN56mVaHGcEWY7o60YTpyUIp3iWMpvDeFN5BYY/s320/cuscotolapaz+104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>burning the fields, just entered Bolivia<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQQY23SjQNFj4i_xsGDGRUc88JOa-fKnpbmoMXI8RINKDLn5_D_zBf0l_MT9W0tNKUd58-NMPpWzpt9YKfhrNotpZgx0bun10uh3gyPj8kSEF5asU-r0MPNV5mf5Y57S8D5ezyZNW3HJo/s1600/cuscotolapaz+105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQQY23SjQNFj4i_xsGDGRUc88JOa-fKnpbmoMXI8RINKDLn5_D_zBf0l_MT9W0tNKUd58-NMPpWzpt9YKfhrNotpZgx0bun10uh3gyPj8kSEF5asU-r0MPNV5mf5Y57S8D5ezyZNW3HJo/s200/cuscotolapaz+105.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>... artwork on the walls of Hostel Mariela in touristy Copacabana, where a night costs 8 Bolivianos (just over a dollar)...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv-wPSx2r4trPwEcm20Ek57IaVnG-yGTOTt6tWd7hBS5GnkBeahkqAJbcuqYcE-U_9CuLUkQ13gI_30ZP1y2jmzkDgDydyavrRu2TGYy30YBmHa4VK7uz1tix8wJnmuxw63De76qMRcDo/s1600/cuscotolapaz+106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv-wPSx2r4trPwEcm20Ek57IaVnG-yGTOTt6tWd7hBS5GnkBeahkqAJbcuqYcE-U_9CuLUkQ13gI_30ZP1y2jmzkDgDydyavrRu2TGYy30YBmHa4VK7uz1tix8wJnmuxw63De76qMRcDo/s200/cuscotolapaz+106.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>"Live Today"<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzvoRDCJ9Kjn5fWh0NcibVJhY99NQvqY19CG1Ac1vZxPGTXEDQH6u1QHsoKprsxfb5Dv6yaIvQBCk3lvUyvZZu_FdnO0Gt5tzW9dsMAwMPly_gwO9ScdyOZUYNyarvtk2PYkYkNnabHg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzvoRDCJ9Kjn5fWh0NcibVJhY99NQvqY19CG1Ac1vZxPGTXEDQH6u1QHsoKprsxfb5Dv6yaIvQBCk3lvUyvZZu_FdnO0Gt5tzW9dsMAwMPly_gwO9ScdyOZUYNyarvtk2PYkYkNnabHg/s320/cuscotolapaz+110.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in Copacabana, Jeff and Tom met up with Stephane, a French/Mallorcan friend of ours first encountered in Panamá and later in Vilcabamba, Ecuador. Together we hopped a boat over to nearby (2 hours) Isla del Sol in the middle of Lake Titicaca.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQFw8_AtKM3Kj38R9km8Z7lAUixqk1oXM9-h2uUhuxwV-JNeeGW5KhZkGQQWbMheH2MoByAyYqSBknVDtXg7ZAL99r0efNpEzy5YitgHMCjkrpjYKldxRfoegAkJMvEnNWRZrRK6cjhDk/s1600/cuscotolapaz+111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQFw8_AtKM3Kj38R9km8Z7lAUixqk1oXM9-h2uUhuxwV-JNeeGW5KhZkGQQWbMheH2MoByAyYqSBknVDtXg7ZAL99r0efNpEzy5YitgHMCjkrpjYKldxRfoegAkJMvEnNWRZrRK6cjhDk/s400/cuscotolapaz+111.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Isla de la Luna, backed by many snowy peaks, seen while arriving at Isla del Sol</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDtH9pArXpu6fkWNYFWVg53s9DkoND6r_oTRvZ5vXkQK9WypaAiuz7cm08r_rG8VrZuWjFJ9SjEpuqh6VrkZvxdIDFXu_T7p6lNuhRLffUo_ML_HiQGeJ1UN5-LZMgIAudQC6-FdA55w/s1600/cuscotolapaz+113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDtH9pArXpu6fkWNYFWVg53s9DkoND6r_oTRvZ5vXkQK9WypaAiuz7cm08r_rG8VrZuWjFJ9SjEpuqh6VrkZvxdIDFXu_T7p6lNuhRLffUo_ML_HiQGeJ1UN5-LZMgIAudQC6-FdA55w/s320/cuscotolapaz+113.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>the south end of Isla del Sol<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijnJzULfKTKfK3D3dyHuZhytd7_aiDOKRNHXuBGBoDJ10u8OidbtzceWPc5ShggPKQ7uR3eLWOSC0rKx-4OF1XfOZM4iZ9RjTMlIwjipyQ-w9C9-Y5WEAK6MMeW490-d5rwaA0gQwTvw0/s1600/cuscotolapaz+116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijnJzULfKTKfK3D3dyHuZhytd7_aiDOKRNHXuBGBoDJ10u8OidbtzceWPc5ShggPKQ7uR3eLWOSC0rKx-4OF1XfOZM4iZ9RjTMlIwjipyQ-w9C9-Y5WEAK6MMeW490-d5rwaA0gQwTvw0/s400/cuscotolapaz+116.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>we hiked the footpath from the south end to the north end of the island, about 3 hours walking<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWpLT5Xk8fbvMt8Yr9WdOvpq4W8UfGUBnZxHYdxY6xYpyPQhZAdhxswtZQRbH_TCBT_cXRivwipKVp6fWo_EWCrP_FUhBPS2NZXdSoon901xK_chf4c1Rp07i-8RtGQ8YNXmy0j2xZ4lA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWpLT5Xk8fbvMt8Yr9WdOvpq4W8UfGUBnZxHYdxY6xYpyPQhZAdhxswtZQRbH_TCBT_cXRivwipKVp6fWo_EWCrP_FUhBPS2NZXdSoon901xK_chf4c1Rp07i-8RtGQ8YNXmy0j2xZ4lA/s320/cuscotolapaz+118.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff, Stephane, Tom in late afternoon</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMFDk8DqKYYXpodmQyRMjI9izt7rpBrvWX-_QwyD8uYpOvxW7tEguyzQijt0Ln7lkmxlPL3LsmHyDNw0EVYwzt-D2K_BkEtNd6uzg4s8AgzX2iyHO3nDhYyzgwJ50RsFZVvavKL1mewc/s1600/cuscotolapaz+124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLMFDk8DqKYYXpodmQyRMjI9izt7rpBrvWX-_QwyD8uYpOvxW7tEguyzQijt0Ln7lkmxlPL3LsmHyDNw0EVYwzt-D2K_BkEtNd6uzg4s8AgzX2iyHO3nDhYyzgwJ50RsFZVvavKL1mewc/s400/cuscotolapaz+124.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">surreal, magical views of the Cordillera Real from Isla del Sol</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyrVnmkT9s8Eq53rEAOi3DT52qzZmjlH8nLknlkQcTfHJmqfbwFx02qT05UcggnMHg7hExzb-bkyBZLdvhvtJKkIrkrLr6T-sLAZvXgunpVP8ikpvu8OSVIc7WmvP4_7e97dan6gwNoA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyrVnmkT9s8Eq53rEAOi3DT52qzZmjlH8nLknlkQcTfHJmqfbwFx02qT05UcggnMHg7hExzb-bkyBZLdvhvtJKkIrkrLr6T-sLAZvXgunpVP8ikpvu8OSVIc7WmvP4_7e97dan6gwNoA/s320/cuscotolapaz+127.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">dusk from the north end of the island. This was to be a magical night, as we camped in archaeological ruins here, finding a small room with low wind. We watched the crescent moon rise right in the head of the constellation Scorpio, then stargazed for hours and played music in the ruins.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQrxbS8EIw-NwsGCplbhko6RHYunuUZp92FCg89NePdY1ZZi2jSEP86tU76Wf6mFWqiL7bzYr91_cT_V6AhJWqd0c70_cw-M2gQWVrPodneRHBXNXdbtZpCJ_rpp7N9-7J87nvr4cAVms/s1600/cuscotolapaz+129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQrxbS8EIw-NwsGCplbhko6RHYunuUZp92FCg89NePdY1ZZi2jSEP86tU76Wf6mFWqiL7bzYr91_cT_V6AhJWqd0c70_cw-M2gQWVrPodneRHBXNXdbtZpCJ_rpp7N9-7J87nvr4cAVms/s320/cuscotolapaz+129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the ruins in the morning. Incan ruins from the 15th-16th century. The Incans believed the Isla del Sol to be the birthplace of their sun god, making it one of the most spiritually-important places in their universe.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBQBuiI9zAGHK03k9_AnGil1J1kpEtQOfsHolF_MvJ1lVuzJesum8Kb3rGAHs6fzExvyVxsUJ92dS4962TZLZBJeysBQjm8Um-uzk6GFpnGsOpR1umuJUCUPXwdLzgpQ0IFIgvOEqbF-o/s1600/cuscotolapaz+130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBQBuiI9zAGHK03k9_AnGil1J1kpEtQOfsHolF_MvJ1lVuzJesum8Kb3rGAHs6fzExvyVxsUJ92dS4962TZLZBJeysBQjm8Um-uzk6GFpnGsOpR1umuJUCUPXwdLzgpQ0IFIgvOEqbF-o/s320/cuscotolapaz+130.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>... guitars are out on a beautiful morning: Jeff above, Tom below...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivq6TyTXNSrWr9Cy8dP5B6H32vzoKlN6FHAFPgz11Brx3lshdrG-w58v9AfjexQW8waOlEmfgU6HNH7NI8OS6lQQT3Zoy9eM4VT2T6BNpJ2WYhuHZfrJFX_NTZVwvejjgf-55S4VYCCe4/s1600/cuscotolapaz+132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivq6TyTXNSrWr9Cy8dP5B6H32vzoKlN6FHAFPgz11Brx3lshdrG-w58v9AfjexQW8waOlEmfgU6HNH7NI8OS6lQQT3Zoy9eM4VT2T6BNpJ2WYhuHZfrJFX_NTZVwvejjgf-55S4VYCCe4/s320/cuscotolapaz+132.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji_AK__UXFLzgq8DfZXwUmNzIjDyw15Mk3-707C-p26GfHhvR89AnlcOuJI0uwlB3bSpTRnObiG0DvjlgmXIEmYy6vofuL50OskHe9-zzgh2rVcV2PCyK7KlP8qeQrYdmnp7wunzpUMlU/s1600/cuscotolapaz+133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji_AK__UXFLzgq8DfZXwUmNzIjDyw15Mk3-707C-p26GfHhvR89AnlcOuJI0uwlB3bSpTRnObiG0DvjlgmXIEmYy6vofuL50OskHe9-zzgh2rVcV2PCyK7KlP8qeQrYdmnp7wunzpUMlU/s200/cuscotolapaz+133.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>... yoga on the beach, crazy Englishman above, crazier Frenchman below, trying to outdo the Englishman and impress the girls...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyj9uOSZkomyU3Kq6Q8mfWsUiksPTJsRAY4cmMDZVxNcl-IBcPt0SH_ieCgwjwA-wUT3tyzagXJXfz-VEBDP-RalaD5e-nwPo7DXJyb8R5M0MX58YhyphenhyphenqWjOAWke4M2eMmrZv6QqbVSPtI/s1600/cuscotolapaz+134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyj9uOSZkomyU3Kq6Q8mfWsUiksPTJsRAY4cmMDZVxNcl-IBcPt0SH_ieCgwjwA-wUT3tyzagXJXfz-VEBDP-RalaD5e-nwPo7DXJyb8R5M0MX58YhyphenhyphenqWjOAWke4M2eMmrZv6QqbVSPtI/s200/cuscotolapaz+134.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVM-UlP9tKZ5etCuC6bIIBniW24DIOCdJIgECu30ZHEzyyjQKWfwRWk7NQDmmb0Ym_TJiv1q542_LsPOyLr9y2Ts6v4fkv9Jf1jqtwc9v3VozpDL7oAw_cbaH9lpPRlXRQIKsxxN4i-Q/s1600/cuscotolapaz+138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVM-UlP9tKZ5etCuC6bIIBniW24DIOCdJIgECu30ZHEzyyjQKWfwRWk7NQDmmb0Ym_TJiv1q542_LsPOyLr9y2Ts6v4fkv9Jf1jqtwc9v3VozpDL7oAw_cbaH9lpPRlXRQIKsxxN4i-Q/s320/cuscotolapaz+138.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">sunset from north end of Isla del Sol</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivceOiwCa6T7mZsu2BFvCdMc3rolOunbx8b1qm40lXMQewyED99heAv90ZO1SnANpRTS1H0PW9hLwDTU-DhLfiBkba9LuBu7mX8kwLiIBwJL4lAlEoPhm8DY6AQChiJOrnGew-GHDgWoE/s1600/cuscotolapaz+139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivceOiwCa6T7mZsu2BFvCdMc3rolOunbx8b1qm40lXMQewyED99heAv90ZO1SnANpRTS1H0PW9hLwDTU-DhLfiBkba9LuBu7mX8kwLiIBwJL4lAlEoPhm8DY6AQChiJOrnGew-GHDgWoE/s400/cuscotolapaz+139.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">amazing storm just next to the sunset</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpG6YkP-q5WvueP9FG7e9SiAmUG2661CzzRdItvcvcmgE8PKPuaAmx3wUeICDsXl-m7Lozd0ce1GrDfLn4SAbagwVAb98bONfeS6aw4dt_VMjkA8Nlv1IgSDAR7PHIpSk3J-lN9V-KNAU/s1600/cuscotolapaz+141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpG6YkP-q5WvueP9FG7e9SiAmUG2661CzzRdItvcvcmgE8PKPuaAmx3wUeICDsXl-m7Lozd0ce1GrDfLn4SAbagwVAb98bONfeS6aw4dt_VMjkA8Nlv1IgSDAR7PHIpSk3J-lN9V-KNAU/s320/cuscotolapaz+141.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>a look back at Copacabana while heading out<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizqkwOgRaFGw4iJKrEL_VVEfBqxfg7aWt4x_1MVXLW0CFs9ljUz2wM0knXIWE9jN0WzEEhRaxmhcNbZL9XMNSyODvG1xHjEZHSkUBZyhZ2s0gXohwM3id8zRcvZRvS5n1yGSovE1Xw0vw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizqkwOgRaFGw4iJKrEL_VVEfBqxfg7aWt4x_1MVXLW0CFs9ljUz2wM0knXIWE9jN0WzEEhRaxmhcNbZL9XMNSyODvG1xHjEZHSkUBZyhZ2s0gXohwM3id8zRcvZRvS5n1yGSovE1Xw0vw/s400/cuscotolapaz+142.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">at Tiquina, the main highway to La Paz is broken here by a narrow strait of Lake Titicaca. In lieu of a bridge, the solution here is a fleet of barges plying the strait, transporting all vehicles across for a small fee:</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkXUW4HOkw_If7iXCKU77ZN_p5Xht1wiL30Gx_zstdFillWCogdzyKkhYyfkGBktfP4XqJcEbteoFrNlxNR-9ny6pxmJentTGbKdy_CYUSghSD94xQgYr-jEYPz_6rB4BaCODaYEAeuLw/s1600/cuscotolapaz+144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkXUW4HOkw_If7iXCKU77ZN_p5Xht1wiL30Gx_zstdFillWCogdzyKkhYyfkGBktfP4XqJcEbteoFrNlxNR-9ny6pxmJentTGbKdy_CYUSghSD94xQgYr-jEYPz_6rB4BaCODaYEAeuLw/s200/cuscotolapaz+144.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3YBquMOlZJF2WBoneboaDUIV1mQ3a0TxxOgglEy2RijfDW4JjYrIduiFz9LFEHkgxYGCmmqIq6wAD66JZVNIKP3IIR4jdB12S-ci8K7XzpEl8awfQLYhz7JgYfY8QMhBYShqL3eZCcYQ/s1600/cuscotolapaz+145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3YBquMOlZJF2WBoneboaDUIV1mQ3a0TxxOgglEy2RijfDW4JjYrIduiFz9LFEHkgxYGCmmqIq6wAD66JZVNIKP3IIR4jdB12S-ci8K7XzpEl8awfQLYhz7JgYfY8QMhBYShqL3eZCcYQ/s200/cuscotolapaz+145.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we rode across with this colorful bus</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMy-hZYCmGXTWi_u8bbWfKowcICf3I-Wlo5em2AZDJAXmYxXmdvf8YVC65xVTCVvUzHknbSf9raSEQrV2BhqNAq8-nEt3oCXmeQ8RQD3fB9j-OKnZy2R1-r-QUeL9wGey6EQcEspdWNk/s1600/cuscotolapaz+146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAMy-hZYCmGXTWi_u8bbWfKowcICf3I-Wlo5em2AZDJAXmYxXmdvf8YVC65xVTCVvUzHknbSf9raSEQrV2BhqNAq8-nEt3oCXmeQ8RQD3fB9j-OKnZy2R1-r-QUeL9wGey6EQcEspdWNk/s200/cuscotolapaz+146.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Titicaca: Sacred Lake. Largest lake in South America.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY5i6arluV-67EonDNIUfnSnXlV5tTh5mAgkuHFDjAfy9cHAFwlCiLhBY57dEEttrvWfei6fyqcCLnH1gz0Pr8QlgGbdY5BnawTQBKlLecqFoLDz686twNXr6XHussIHEG9JhP08l4WVs/s1600/cuscotolapaz+148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY5i6arluV-67EonDNIUfnSnXlV5tTh5mAgkuHFDjAfy9cHAFwlCiLhBY57dEEttrvWfei6fyqcCLnH1gz0Pr8QlgGbdY5BnawTQBKlLecqFoLDz686twNXr6XHussIHEG9JhP08l4WVs/s320/cuscotolapaz+148.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">on the way to La Paz now, we followed the shore of Titicaca for a long ways, snowy peaks of the Cordillera Real rising in the background</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBz7F7R10C8UyUfhUuY_SVDKHKc9mnRp73Rtp8Jg1xTnW-zxcTxavTKlXSIDYBSXPOqAQJIwjvTzo5jFZ_3HYY0VeVl9aSBHJIz5PZF3rP7bV16kXvLlAPfdO03xQrAJ3LJHB3c1kyD3E/s1600/cuscotolapaz+150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBz7F7R10C8UyUfhUuY_SVDKHKc9mnRp73Rtp8Jg1xTnW-zxcTxavTKlXSIDYBSXPOqAQJIwjvTzo5jFZ_3HYY0VeVl9aSBHJIz5PZF3rP7bV16kXvLlAPfdO03xQrAJ3LJHB3c1kyD3E/s400/cuscotolapaz+150.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>sunset colors on Titicaca<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyJABCKa57mOwCYriOPMnjU7fP32mBMFqtDYa9Lj3KQ8TGsve3kRKnI42rQdw8B7nbqy4Tx6FMVrYl26SBHLoxD_9Er0gtVXhxjujPO-q07RAcq9D3E7k3AkKpFMjP6EuXOWOi194XDU0/s1600/cuscotolapaz+151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyJABCKa57mOwCYriOPMnjU7fP32mBMFqtDYa9Lj3KQ8TGsve3kRKnI42rQdw8B7nbqy4Tx6FMVrYl26SBHLoxD_9Er0gtVXhxjujPO-q07RAcq9D3E7k3AkKpFMjP6EuXOWOi194XDU0/s320/cuscotolapaz+151.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">improvised sailboat plying the waters of the lake</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIA5UihTcYhthptauoOv8Qc9CoDY1zUkfYdlvhwajLFL8cH20s0YImVs7X1mawGSl3ye64aaJeTH79Hnb8Lx_MQA9rRqCAPM_H1MmgjwqBQ97OsjKsmDG_0JgjNzF8AVpsaWQAl8y6ajs/s1600/cuscotolapaz+152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIA5UihTcYhthptauoOv8Qc9CoDY1zUkfYdlvhwajLFL8cH20s0YImVs7X1mawGSl3ye64aaJeTH79Hnb8Lx_MQA9rRqCAPM_H1MmgjwqBQ97OsjKsmDG_0JgjNzF8AVpsaWQAl8y6ajs/s320/cuscotolapaz+152.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>... this whole stretch, altiplano at nearly 4000m, featured lots of wind...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMaxw11zoywyQapgUW6bne6dfmkK94z-V08XNIYzH98VIWxP14lw2npibJetGC6a-JKDfYAHdvHfuL09iWMlWNvsB9maNfVbC_dWZIFkEOFc3-8DVzI1uKjqRWAbWEbribUSrG665FaTA/s1600/cuscotolapaz+153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMaxw11zoywyQapgUW6bne6dfmkK94z-V08XNIYzH98VIWxP14lw2npibJetGC6a-JKDfYAHdvHfuL09iWMlWNvsB9maNfVbC_dWZIFkEOFc3-8DVzI1uKjqRWAbWEbribUSrG665FaTA/s400/cuscotolapaz+153.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_eEbfJ8w-TYBdQLoB6kqyW7C1U7vrpRb5Oclxu5vX3FH91nZsK-EqJIvkus2Ji3UHFTiApj_CDuwgiOz29JzhqLyQRo8ox2ch7p9FIQzTnNq_TOnksBXu3uowskjGSlHyhN8qJ8e_ZUM/s1600/cuscotolapaz+154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_eEbfJ8w-TYBdQLoB6kqyW7C1U7vrpRb5Oclxu5vX3FH91nZsK-EqJIvkus2Ji3UHFTiApj_CDuwgiOz29JzhqLyQRo8ox2ch7p9FIQzTnNq_TOnksBXu3uowskjGSlHyhN8qJ8e_ZUM/s400/cuscotolapaz+154.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">classic altiplano landscapes, dominating much of western Bolivia</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDoxga0T-iDFyHf83lIrOrB8f-f3Jg5JEpmltJWltEg38Aricf9i4gRhWj5uv7oFZtxISJdnXpm4XmA4yUKiH2nhEIYQP1bY9_I_TZXIkCV5PkaO_c6BtOv1H8fe6VO_GHSQME078wQM/s1600/cuscotolapaz+155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDoxga0T-iDFyHf83lIrOrB8f-f3Jg5JEpmltJWltEg38Aricf9i4gRhWj5uv7oFZtxISJdnXpm4XmA4yUKiH2nhEIYQP1bY9_I_TZXIkCV5PkaO_c6BtOv1H8fe6VO_GHSQME078wQM/s320/cuscotolapaz+155.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>now on the outskirts of La Paz, the not-so-pretty sprawl of the capital<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7yIA89TD8mxKueRdEvNcYkPBfhA-ZDSb6VHiXgfCWoWj2c-bchUEJlWIrH0lExdPkFI7q_HEr6ifdywoLwmH8IXlPxWhHckkojxWC8t1iwi9_wp6WQOSgcVLkZKYxZXFUecax5uWgzg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7yIA89TD8mxKueRdEvNcYkPBfhA-ZDSb6VHiXgfCWoWj2c-bchUEJlWIrH0lExdPkFI7q_HEr6ifdywoLwmH8IXlPxWhHckkojxWC8t1iwi9_wp6WQOSgcVLkZKYxZXFUecax5uWgzg/s200/cuscotolapaz+156.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff takes a breather</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj3YE8UsXDrLCjWjn9dxx4ZjqaezM8PxLchMA1kolVd5x6awXYjXEzabSzOcdpOc1heDNLgnhaXQmf5E_xRoadlu6YJ73DQgc0gPstx4mripbtzMno3W8eXCSJMsPVhv9SZr34TOSrW98/s1600/cuscotolapaz+158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj3YE8UsXDrLCjWjn9dxx4ZjqaezM8PxLchMA1kolVd5x6awXYjXEzabSzOcdpOc1heDNLgnhaXQmf5E_xRoadlu6YJ73DQgc0gPstx4mripbtzMno3W8eXCSJMsPVhv9SZr34TOSrW98/s320/cuscotolapaz+158.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">18km from La Paz, crossing El Alto, Jeff's seatpost cracked off. It lasted 31000km or so, but this led to a hair-raising all-standing 400m descent down into La Paz.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVh0Uego0szQMTDy22m-NUruCl5Xc8LGLaeVk65z7MNB60rEI_gQinTzn86ISotlrgw9_yv2C3rVEW4Mz9Jz3ensaS7UwnNO61SijqhSquPVVjg5KjOdBlwWb2zc5lBrR41v-0eN8qh7M/s1600/cuscotolapaz+160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVh0Uego0szQMTDy22m-NUruCl5Xc8LGLaeVk65z7MNB60rEI_gQinTzn86ISotlrgw9_yv2C3rVEW4Mz9Jz3ensaS7UwnNO61SijqhSquPVVjg5KjOdBlwWb2zc5lBrR41v-0eN8qh7M/s400/cuscotolapaz+160.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>...La Paz, capital of Bolivia, spreading mythically down and across this broad valley... the nearby peak above is Huayna Potosí, which we aim to climb in the next few days...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgopVY32RnMYp3Rs-vEl6X1tngIsXG2TjKHiTMK0XEow5EXE9lbGeft79iI6-XpGIm4xrn-kVRV_33_jIA8z73refxePOj5fTi49wkNEnvS1A8R09GPyuXzq14Zey75AjKbWLpivC59jQg/s1600/cuscotolapaz+161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgopVY32RnMYp3Rs-vEl6X1tngIsXG2TjKHiTMK0XEow5EXE9lbGeft79iI6-XpGIm4xrn-kVRV_33_jIA8z73refxePOj5fTi49wkNEnvS1A8R09GPyuXzq14Zey75AjKbWLpivC59jQg/s400/cuscotolapaz+161.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-19676470989297488242011-10-27T15:41:00.002-10:002011-11-14T13:07:03.633-10:00Segment 45: Ayacucho, Perú to Cusco, Perú (October 1 - 16, 2011)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhmTdj9iRfQL1prIgDyMkny1qm0hGSYf9HO1JtRQ7zagll5byi6R0zaqPnbmaSDg0TgcVRjhO-fmTLB7sv9oqEdVF_pw8yR4nJTv4WyQ-9dR17m-koMLTtm6UKT5NKbz23oqKA7jLdA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhmTdj9iRfQL1prIgDyMkny1qm0hGSYf9HO1JtRQ7zagll5byi6R0zaqPnbmaSDg0TgcVRjhO-fmTLB7sv9oqEdVF_pw8yR4nJTv4WyQ-9dR17m-koMLTtm6UKT5NKbz23oqKA7jLdA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhmTdj9iRfQL1prIgDyMkny1qm0hGSYf9HO1JtRQ7zagll5byi6R0zaqPnbmaSDg0TgcVRjhO-fmTLB7sv9oqEdVF_pw8yR4nJTv4WyQ-9dR17m-koMLTtm6UKT5NKbz23oqKA7jLdA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Z1tb7ZL-MqMyrHwT3XoLTEP3Hz0ZVfoOQLrc6XjOSS01vBmcAJATjI-BVoKX6ulUOwZ1rw4ooDPeA0kOFSVn7t-_9wAMbNlYADuCBk11EzymZgbwy-MIa2UiNb9bXxixEFCSFP45hQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7BqbLUSVk0zDkJiaJaJ9-LNamCiMCBUHu8yP5NdzZwnD18gnEaJoBKXLc-6E4Qb4yROAXCVVypElI7cZrJuizKjcXGLCFTSSMPHVag5ufGHDtg-G_KXz1IQO0hCUl8K0eZ9SA8-tTFQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7BqbLUSVk0zDkJiaJaJ9-LNamCiMCBUHu8yP5NdzZwnD18gnEaJoBKXLc-6E4Qb4yROAXCVVypElI7cZrJuizKjcXGLCFTSSMPHVag5ufGHDtg-G_KXz1IQO0hCUl8K0eZ9SA8-tTFQ/s400/ayacucho-cusco+006.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Plaza de Armas in the colonial city of Ayacucho</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJ4HFs9ZVRX_xmbHZdlWjkcq1s3YiBSPbB5IEjm1KXjl986t2BCR8O-kuliXvpv59a2z7ZloBe02kbpOugLIQ7BABEt8MTUWAh-6vk84drrgLU81kwnM20sCE2wJoftBKLfcl6f01qg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxJ4HFs9ZVRX_xmbHZdlWjkcq1s3YiBSPbB5IEjm1KXjl986t2BCR8O-kuliXvpv59a2z7ZloBe02kbpOugLIQ7BABEt8MTUWAh-6vk84drrgLU81kwnM20sCE2wJoftBKLfcl6f01qg/s320/ayacucho-cusco+009.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Ayacucho is marked by its various pedestrian walkways, coincidentally excellent places for us to busk</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdRdV2MEC6_MT9tOmWJ6nfOjyP3kLlPUDleR3loKOQ4js-mhE8I9fMxRgjxENHRNXHUfIB0fwB-2ClApAvQX8tpBO3Az90E2tbEdddMQGON6cGS7AImWYhynsZ8LIyHwcGIX6B22_l-Q/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdRdV2MEC6_MT9tOmWJ6nfOjyP3kLlPUDleR3loKOQ4js-mhE8I9fMxRgjxENHRNXHUfIB0fwB-2ClApAvQX8tpBO3Az90E2tbEdddMQGON6cGS7AImWYhynsZ8LIyHwcGIX6B22_l-Q/s320/ayacucho-cusco+001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in this wild scene, Jason, Jeff and Craig attempted to busk in the Plaza de Armas, within 5 minutes had drawn a crowd of over 130 people, and were forced to stop by the police. The crowd reacted negatively, claiming that artists and musicians had a natural right to express themselves and that the people likewise had the right to watch and listen. This of course is true democracy! It all ended with an interesting compromise: the police made us move a block over and agreed to let us play in front of a church along a pedestrian walkway.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia0YdxEpYMJdbs_u8XssBZAKE3QTno9hnkBXdwr543UEXXvDj2CvPkcy6Tz2sGR99kMG7Lf_V8rzy0k5di_cNrrojZ7Ho7ckli-b8dbI5IbiegQTVzutPlDYRUBHR_9BVq9cXrzj5sMw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia0YdxEpYMJdbs_u8XssBZAKE3QTno9hnkBXdwr543UEXXvDj2CvPkcy6Tz2sGR99kMG7Lf_V8rzy0k5di_cNrrojZ7Ho7ckli-b8dbI5IbiegQTVzutPlDYRUBHR_9BVq9cXrzj5sMw/s200/ayacucho-cusco+002.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...here is our spot in front of the church...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmio0fznA79-c48-PQbay2PgxYwqVa235LfT_4OiV14PNG1EcBSlOL7yY_XC40UTGyOMhH6n_p4-qQUVBVMIYMxC8arY2chBiFj5XimmgNYBbeXONiW2zF5gQtEDuZp3EI7nQNJDiUuw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmio0fznA79-c48-PQbay2PgxYwqVa235LfT_4OiV14PNG1EcBSlOL7yY_XC40UTGyOMhH6n_p4-qQUVBVMIYMxC8arY2chBiFj5XimmgNYBbeXONiW2zF5gQtEDuZp3EI7nQNJDiUuw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+004.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we played for over 6 hours on this Sunday, generating high energy throughout, and it would end up being our second most successful day (after Quito, Ecuador) ever.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixX6ZJ_mcmqo2QlO-p_IZYeZNOjORJBeivo2BP_A2W2xAAd78qpszHlIWMjVpqNEh5qf_sk55n2_tRFNOhJxOzB8Z0a6mPEHDBqCTRFN0IE-1D45wc0lmnthyhpHvPgtcZFcF4hKaJkg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixX6ZJ_mcmqo2QlO-p_IZYeZNOjORJBeivo2BP_A2W2xAAd78qpszHlIWMjVpqNEh5qf_sk55n2_tRFNOhJxOzB8Z0a6mPEHDBqCTRFN0IE-1D45wc0lmnthyhpHvPgtcZFcF4hKaJkg/s320/ayacucho-cusco+011.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">colonial arch in Ayacucho</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijyZU7xNrM6RSG22e40EjdPpyXaANpDFb3fVMJyxpMBbSaiFWBDC1xK4Gv5NktjtamxlqeOp2jphCeUSJSDtCmgSCgvuk154XIRK0cML_bf2QsYdp0aTccI9MzBR8ecNGk2nFuXkKEnQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijyZU7xNrM6RSG22e40EjdPpyXaANpDFb3fVMJyxpMBbSaiFWBDC1xK4Gv5NktjtamxlqeOp2jphCeUSJSDtCmgSCgvuk154XIRK0cML_bf2QsYdp0aTccI9MzBR8ecNGk2nFuXkKEnQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+010.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the juice stands in the Ayacucho market</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcbu6QuTXy6sighLPFuFvOnJ5QQSvpmllA9cCJVgAYcEQN7UgTXNPgNRE5Rz34BePmr-xrnb6CEuYxmU5G8ViIdBh2eicQVBQ52kmUSpWSnykp55Bm1O6FZmD5Oy812NjLf7lNtOpCWg/s1600/P1060815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcbu6QuTXy6sighLPFuFvOnJ5QQSvpmllA9cCJVgAYcEQN7UgTXNPgNRE5Rz34BePmr-xrnb6CEuYxmU5G8ViIdBh2eicQVBQ52kmUSpWSnykp55Bm1O6FZmD5Oy812NjLf7lNtOpCWg/s400/P1060815.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a daunting visual: this is our route (more or less) from Ayacucho to Cusco: more like a rollercoaster ride than a bike ride. In all, 5 major climbs, several to over 4000m, and a similar number of descents, several down to below 2000m. It is probably the hardest section of the whole trip, which is saying alot.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4G9VToNewttK9Qrtq5m8Lyy3jH8oIlDABhtrOEO-tiIpuYeGyb3aalgdl2y9MaX3m1LbmO8-EP1gsJpF2pfGu5lmrxI8_3K-_jqCkvwobIfrGG0AySEMYSsSfGTH5dzL122mB5aLGOA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4G9VToNewttK9Qrtq5m8Lyy3jH8oIlDABhtrOEO-tiIpuYeGyb3aalgdl2y9MaX3m1LbmO8-EP1gsJpF2pfGu5lmrxI8_3K-_jqCkvwobIfrGG0AySEMYSsSfGTH5dzL122mB5aLGOA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">purple hills at dusk climbing away from Ayacucho</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsFcYONkvjYay4D5yk5VMfvZum8PR0eHVDtzcb72jMk3tS9aDqJpMN2M9OhY3xeebmBOZSGsUPmVHfhzgErEs1fwjgRERODxeqGVc62eJyswziJSuL_JYPUsVDvGFxOR8Ud5F-lXW1A/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsFcYONkvjYay4D5yk5VMfvZum8PR0eHVDtzcb72jMk3tS9aDqJpMN2M9OhY3xeebmBOZSGsUPmVHfhzgErEs1fwjgRERODxeqGVc62eJyswziJSuL_JYPUsVDvGFxOR8Ud5F-lXW1A/s320/ayacucho-cusco+014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">looking back down on a nocturnal Ayacucho</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9eeOfPLrf5ac2E_CLM9Q3yW74yy_5c0U5RzvNvIWqmf263zz1wM-V027U0Jg4ctyrAYSWWhfZvjjw85NoKa9xus77pONSAEO4ZsZvWGm0Pj4dduaC-5YWTUok5ifQShPzKb63__I7g/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9eeOfPLrf5ac2E_CLM9Q3yW74yy_5c0U5RzvNvIWqmf263zz1wM-V027U0Jg4ctyrAYSWWhfZvjjw85NoKa9xus77pONSAEO4ZsZvWGm0Pj4dduaC-5YWTUok5ifQShPzKb63__I7g/s320/ayacucho-cusco+067.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our first big climb featured some rolling hills along the way</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp_UlTld1sGdSrGSbKgmccjbEg7PrW5d7qTLBxjs8OD8e9wdOhfgw1wt4re4ZXxbVMfpyNxOVPvj_6n0ZSuvaj5u6oAdpC06DbPCv0Mpynu0mLXVG3hCDSipbFiwKun9PQ_2vyUBoFPw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp_UlTld1sGdSrGSbKgmccjbEg7PrW5d7qTLBxjs8OD8e9wdOhfgw1wt4re4ZXxbVMfpyNxOVPvj_6n0ZSuvaj5u6oAdpC06DbPCv0Mpynu0mLXVG3hCDSipbFiwKun9PQ_2vyUBoFPw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+020.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEuWL6gzBLX3A4I29_oQTOB-MJcm38jVVXTBpxGotRjTLWJVNx9dHXnFL_4LmqW-Oi5d9J_QzJ6i54fim3ab9ZToFM1Bui6y_7cgNh9q7ScGLJURFa-Fv29m3b-51XvhgQn2Rti4TcJQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEuWL6gzBLX3A4I29_oQTOB-MJcm38jVVXTBpxGotRjTLWJVNx9dHXnFL_4LmqW-Oi5d9J_QzJ6i54fim3ab9ZToFM1Bui6y_7cgNh9q7ScGLJURFa-Fv29m3b-51XvhgQn2Rti4TcJQ/s200/ayacucho-cusco+017.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... interesting Peru voting symbols: "Mark the football"</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-AG6S5unEuxgsD45M5fvI0c9CaeysdSFv-EZ3gkUQd7FPc7sQG8DtVj1l6xvZSd_fVHIJTlNrnsukwcw3qfr7vztgakYTCaOe3vtva5Od8SYOIo3H-2ha7Q5HOoP3mJcbbHrflPSDQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-AG6S5unEuxgsD45M5fvI0c9CaeysdSFv-EZ3gkUQd7FPc7sQG8DtVj1l6xvZSd_fVHIJTlNrnsukwcw3qfr7vztgakYTCaOe3vtva5Od8SYOIo3H-2ha7Q5HOoP3mJcbbHrflPSDQ/s200/ayacucho-cusco+021.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">or the vicuña</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinPJoLjKAv8AvpuHHUdhkOT76Y8YhinhNFWcd8Ewdmbn6UXkkaPUohw_FBzahf4myjqTvJS3GqP_9RG6onLLXWWctmFAyA-_kesiIFt0kNAwnr6qyoSBU3PH8EEIXKcHAWPaMveN9ZWQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinPJoLjKAv8AvpuHHUdhkOT76Y8YhinhNFWcd8Ewdmbn6UXkkaPUohw_FBzahf4myjqTvJS3GqP_9RG6onLLXWWctmFAyA-_kesiIFt0kNAwnr6qyoSBU3PH8EEIXKcHAWPaMveN9ZWQ/s200/ayacucho-cusco+051.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">or, one of our favorites, the Strongman</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomKbTj27DsCVzPvB1QzGJ7WxQZywHJt_eeLU97c-_WsYhGq8R9Rzo3BK0WY3isB4Txx2jOQ679IN40ygBrejIeCFOA0WmjKpgwnvMa7SOpZbVdWrL76cDDF80I2vOFoOMoEYXYF7cYQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomKbTj27DsCVzPvB1QzGJ7WxQZywHJt_eeLU97c-_WsYhGq8R9Rzo3BK0WY3isB4Txx2jOQ679IN40ygBrejIeCFOA0WmjKpgwnvMa7SOpZbVdWrL76cDDF80I2vOFoOMoEYXYF7cYQ/s400/ayacucho-cusco+023.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">long steady climbing</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifMJqNw0D2Hgi0L3cFZ3q1Dhejat89mHbXP1fESY-T2rjX-4sVPxQ_E7im5XFT66IHP8_EqQVYOD-UD3-hJi6UM9Q_iHliy_BIu7xho932teWdi6fU8NUkd0tmKWwLMCYnqDVBWUqrkA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifMJqNw0D2Hgi0L3cFZ3q1Dhejat89mHbXP1fESY-T2rjX-4sVPxQ_E7im5XFT66IHP8_EqQVYOD-UD3-hJi6UM9Q_iHliy_BIu7xho932teWdi6fU8NUkd0tmKWwLMCYnqDVBWUqrkA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">campesino house</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhly-k3ED23POnJq9iwRUmdAjDRTstrGyBjtS7cquq9EAK5nd3c51MpWPpgZKRznhBeT65111WHMyuGJcw9yw4JW1qRU8qxjyz65nHh86a2kCStVrKA-PCXJdAaEtdId9NBiwKFi_pFZQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhly-k3ED23POnJq9iwRUmdAjDRTstrGyBjtS7cquq9EAK5nd3c51MpWPpgZKRznhBeT65111WHMyuGJcw9yw4JW1qRU8qxjyz65nHh86a2kCStVrKA-PCXJdAaEtdId9NBiwKFi_pFZQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">some propaganda for Martinelli, coincidentally the same family that helped feed us and house us when we were in Ayacucho</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqCDUJOmTRc8mVFGZLXjQ_rccv-fL3JnW54-JetOCMu0Q42Na058K8QTtFdFi9dTp7WH78yEc_m6xAVhlUo37qNN-8h9YaMahCipxSBZkAAJC9cVOmQtn5uEP_9prlKq3zD9MDCfMhjA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqCDUJOmTRc8mVFGZLXjQ_rccv-fL3JnW54-JetOCMu0Q42Na058K8QTtFdFi9dTp7WH78yEc_m6xAVhlUo37qNN-8h9YaMahCipxSBZkAAJC9cVOmQtn5uEP_9prlKq3zD9MDCfMhjA/s400/ayacucho-cusco+026.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">looking back from near the top of this climb</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Z1tb7ZL-MqMyrHwT3XoLTEP3Hz0ZVfoOQLrc6XjOSS01vBmcAJATjI-BVoKX6ulUOwZ1rw4ooDPeA0kOFSVn7t-_9wAMbNlYADuCBk11EzymZgbwy-MIa2UiNb9bXxixEFCSFP45hQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF2xq9DcXMbyYY4aRI9MLCMkbQqRoVcADMiIQ42Kokt7Htdjw9Ik7P6o-3N64jUkPN1xlUc4e2pa3G4kcVGTfECt268vXIQfWbYIiQvLZYMuESHG0n7Ijz3xTwiXnYPnUWe6Lnc2ygpQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF2xq9DcXMbyYY4aRI9MLCMkbQqRoVcADMiIQ42Kokt7Htdjw9Ik7P6o-3N64jUkPN1xlUc4e2pa3G4kcVGTfECt268vXIQfWbYIiQvLZYMuESHG0n7Ijz3xTwiXnYPnUWe6Lnc2ygpQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Z1tb7ZL-MqMyrHwT3XoLTEP3Hz0ZVfoOQLrc6XjOSS01vBmcAJATjI-BVoKX6ulUOwZ1rw4ooDPeA0kOFSVn7t-_9wAMbNlYADuCBk11EzymZgbwy-MIa2UiNb9bXxixEFCSFP45hQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Z1tb7ZL-MqMyrHwT3XoLTEP3Hz0ZVfoOQLrc6XjOSS01vBmcAJATjI-BVoKX6ulUOwZ1rw4ooDPeA0kOFSVn7t-_9wAMbNlYADuCBk11EzymZgbwy-MIa2UiNb9bXxixEFCSFP45hQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+030.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... seemingly a herd of mustangs up here at 4000m...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBsHblSzJiGmVqjuhS-wXxbynVHqwrQJJvwwoEAmPX9YSJJ58xh5xVQ-smEniQEFSvGXbCErKHYzHZdJDBijw7wQ21YrtZyT9maNh4nkAAOLtKZy3ajZEYICl6HhZE3CV4OKlahKM3Q/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBsHblSzJiGmVqjuhS-wXxbynVHqwrQJJvwwoEAmPX9YSJJ58xh5xVQ-smEniQEFSvGXbCErKHYzHZdJDBijw7wQ21YrtZyT9maNh4nkAAOLtKZy3ajZEYICl6HhZE3CV4OKlahKM3Q/s200/ayacucho-cusco+031.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhmTdj9iRfQL1prIgDyMkny1qm0hGSYf9HO1JtRQ7zagll5byi6R0zaqPnbmaSDg0TgcVRjhO-fmTLB7sv9oqEdVF_pw8yR4nJTv4WyQ-9dR17m-koMLTtm6UKT5NKbz23oqKA7jLdA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGx3iUHmw-jnI4xUQaT1gnus485HVNgGIEmj3rIgWO_vYwMYyDgdUxMSEMfGUkkLF1wxECJxChA-f4c5erOpIdTtQ8psFanA6ACmLTPxjWDFexL81aco6aU8U8ZWc5Y2O0eW9Iiufcg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOGx3iUHmw-jnI4xUQaT1gnus485HVNgGIEmj3rIgWO_vYwMYyDgdUxMSEMfGUkkLF1wxECJxChA-f4c5erOpIdTtQ8psFanA6ACmLTPxjWDFexL81aco6aU8U8ZWc5Y2O0eW9Iiufcg/s400/ayacucho-cusco+034.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the view from the top</div> <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhmTdj9iRfQL1prIgDyMkny1qm0hGSYf9HO1JtRQ7zagll5byi6R0zaqPnbmaSDg0TgcVRjhO-fmTLB7sv9oqEdVF_pw8yR4nJTv4WyQ-9dR17m-koMLTtm6UKT5NKbz23oqKA7jLdA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIhmTdj9iRfQL1prIgDyMkny1qm0hGSYf9HO1JtRQ7zagll5byi6R0zaqPnbmaSDg0TgcVRjhO-fmTLB7sv9oqEdVF_pw8yR4nJTv4WyQ-9dR17m-koMLTtm6UKT5NKbz23oqKA7jLdA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+035.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the snow-capped range in the distance, inviting and mystical, lies ahead on the route to Cusco</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK-wl-6Q_FAA1IHUezWaq4LOhT-amSxXNoQeFNBobiGMIctOUjDr8EAtDtUqk_xqPrl_5mQjS1FS4bkoWHn27qG403DyG7B3zPtKP-Ni1jjFneEH_0LHfFL_XiTb4fIW4dyuAW3lONPg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK-wl-6Q_FAA1IHUezWaq4LOhT-amSxXNoQeFNBobiGMIctOUjDr8EAtDtUqk_xqPrl_5mQjS1FS4bkoWHn27qG403DyG7B3zPtKP-Ni1jjFneEH_0LHfFL_XiTb4fIW4dyuAW3lONPg/s320/ayacucho-cusco+038.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...fantastic descent...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR460m4EbJGH0vtStTTsuL8mMaMZsO-FJ8LQ-GN2Ne0R_lFLSsKJj2jNUfI8H2SJoG2YCikOP7Nb82X8Awu0iLKu2TZJYPaRNz9e7_uWBAzNoJ3NlsMURGTb-FIonaItngZjg433t1bw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR460m4EbJGH0vtStTTsuL8mMaMZsO-FJ8LQ-GN2Ne0R_lFLSsKJj2jNUfI8H2SJoG2YCikOP7Nb82X8Awu0iLKu2TZJYPaRNz9e7_uWBAzNoJ3NlsMURGTb-FIonaItngZjg433t1bw/s400/ayacucho-cusco+037.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">with countless curves and hairpins</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6IwfckDnmPLOrbodqBEwijIhj0wjYdOUtYa8qWwTjxV39eRP56W0TbSjR4s2eyolLGToFBLq-5SKSsmavJJOiW4nxdsRg9fJcomvGEZQm7cy0K0UYYlcOjBfShUWswUl-jcIZJpHPA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6IwfckDnmPLOrbodqBEwijIhj0wjYdOUtYa8qWwTjxV39eRP56W0TbSjR4s2eyolLGToFBLq-5SKSsmavJJOiW4nxdsRg9fJcomvGEZQm7cy0K0UYYlcOjBfShUWswUl-jcIZJpHPA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+040.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmZmsU9btnMumUaBBRdnKFiFRbv4kLn2HKV6jxSlLb3sxjjBIhLPU2gU8vh1KSc8Wl88uuLHcknx989tflXOv-GkYxXNVKH8oto-NzzgOidJqICAPzQX1dlu5f09dlqMYxQnrTsf5zqg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmZmsU9btnMumUaBBRdnKFiFRbv4kLn2HKV6jxSlLb3sxjjBIhLPU2gU8vh1KSc8Wl88uuLHcknx989tflXOv-GkYxXNVKH8oto-NzzgOidJqICAPzQX1dlu5f09dlqMYxQnrTsf5zqg/s320/ayacucho-cusco+042.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we spent the night at the health center in Occros, then continued this descent the following morning...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwv1LE_uTKK8mVTGO4RkUupha33NC0YM5uWu5_JeJA9kAC87N6duFa1gxQb0ncuhKx4LBFwiSL7z3imatIQ8kgoTXc_J7D9oPRLbHPqqVb0CGlJ5uMR5vkeJdu-BmFI3D-TPdflEA6fQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwv1LE_uTKK8mVTGO4RkUupha33NC0YM5uWu5_JeJA9kAC87N6duFa1gxQb0ncuhKx4LBFwiSL7z3imatIQ8kgoTXc_J7D9oPRLbHPqqVb0CGlJ5uMR5vkeJdu-BmFI3D-TPdflEA6fQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+044.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJKivtfSqW8WW78xMOhK63de93XN_ivjgwaga1QCjRrrhsZg2rOyjvRtlzg8W9SoqnkIbk6eEa_HkslXt8I7yGo-vsaf0V-DdNkc7i1CCr3UKdlne5Q0t-QYvkOf6Gu21aPU37oM40NA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJKivtfSqW8WW78xMOhK63de93XN_ivjgwaga1QCjRrrhsZg2rOyjvRtlzg8W9SoqnkIbk6eEa_HkslXt8I7yGo-vsaf0V-DdNkc7i1CCr3UKdlne5Q0t-QYvkOf6Gu21aPU37oM40NA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+046.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">looking down on Chumbes</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1pt7jt5Ra1vnjdtdsdfha_DJwPW8z9dOViRGqL5W-EMv5XpdfZwh8p9qWp_xvpVDl777wVoRQU0SfKdNoSvhRUoU_dcoKzYGTfL5ymAPwrhC30CKvprV4h6lwsnJkBPFn6JFCbi3Yg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1pt7jt5Ra1vnjdtdsdfha_DJwPW8z9dOViRGqL5W-EMv5XpdfZwh8p9qWp_xvpVDl777wVoRQU0SfKdNoSvhRUoU_dcoKzYGTfL5ymAPwrhC30CKvprV4h6lwsnJkBPFn6JFCbi3Yg/s320/ayacucho-cusco+047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... this descent was to be some 2400m in total, down to this river:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgihj4LGQ7sngvJN298GBIzDdmSLxDJg4-By81xfPSelaitBtwR6FT7lI13330yDCty-CUL51sQIt9Z1Kl9VXxhL5YN1G9CS1BC2UCnsBb73_d6vlqm6ByyeVNSgoZ5xW575r1XNds3dQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgihj4LGQ7sngvJN298GBIzDdmSLxDJg4-By81xfPSelaitBtwR6FT7lI13330yDCty-CUL51sQIt9Z1Kl9VXxhL5YN1G9CS1BC2UCnsBb73_d6vlqm6ByyeVNSgoZ5xW575r1XNds3dQ/s400/ayacucho-cusco+048.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv4HM3j_-2VZLT1T0Bx9ICFTsZ2SHlfuODsmoNQLRo3ypZwuaXR1UuPlhYGTN5G8DNjwY1kPR-H48MYmy8PqRg0rhC6f_K4hYXD4_MmxXyVpQssHXtwFxPL5jZpR2JCEYVgORY4dJRRw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv4HM3j_-2VZLT1T0Bx9ICFTsZ2SHlfuODsmoNQLRo3ypZwuaXR1UuPlhYGTN5G8DNjwY1kPR-H48MYmy8PqRg0rhC6f_K4hYXD4_MmxXyVpQssHXtwFxPL5jZpR2JCEYVgORY4dJRRw/s400/ayacucho-cusco+050.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">climbing up again, towards Chincheros</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYwva7AmtAq40UXNODqsx_GabWKHGIeGBIUWzEx6UPQU8_gbdHAwynm3Oz9Usc-Ky6y2jnCwxn7wJr3jux6TEEQ5T2pp5GcsmzZIqYSJOIhLv6ybpkdIx71BHldrqyHjhyN06pOcXwWw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYwva7AmtAq40UXNODqsx_GabWKHGIeGBIUWzEx6UPQU8_gbdHAwynm3Oz9Usc-Ky6y2jnCwxn7wJr3jux6TEEQ5T2pp5GcsmzZIqYSJOIhLv6ybpkdIx71BHldrqyHjhyN06pOcXwWw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+052.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Uripa in late afternoon</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkF44cFtKPszTMXch-KoPuyWcPe8XAhrrd2Zg0UaDM5eF6BB0iLA3Nxk4XC_35CXT76i5dKRFYX-G8tU9b1a1Bln3VW84c80suF5Yqwi7VLdo2SYsUDc-cDdDzLFW222Qq2hblQQYEw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCkF44cFtKPszTMXch-KoPuyWcPe8XAhrrd2Zg0UaDM5eF6BB0iLA3Nxk4XC_35CXT76i5dKRFYX-G8tU9b1a1Bln3VW84c80suF5Yqwi7VLdo2SYsUDc-cDdDzLFW222Qq2hblQQYEw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this second big climb was marred by road construction projects</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfTr_GRPlGncNv69bpDQhLNiMiL8Wi7pbg0oojewDlsuKWvVbxEkpY2WLeNNPuSIY98Pke57StUdfnoASXuWZApYOhqjecRVhHnCyR-_RLcXmPOifpC1U65w2k7JP3VOBezsJMLkpE9g/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfTr_GRPlGncNv69bpDQhLNiMiL8Wi7pbg0oojewDlsuKWvVbxEkpY2WLeNNPuSIY98Pke57StUdfnoASXuWZApYOhqjecRVhHnCyR-_RLcXmPOifpC1U65w2k7JP3VOBezsJMLkpE9g/s320/ayacucho-cusco+057.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the top section was paved, and we were caught in thick fog and rain for this bit</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDp2zBcLw5f7HRSFJSfxbkStabB_4n27vNEIqW1cgGQ5H232e0eqGRueTecDNGQFdWCbh30aFJFqUfR8HwSump7dpcvD3MSJUxcjBk2KhQRGJE912YLtV3roF8UBpROm39x8sGE7baiQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDp2zBcLw5f7HRSFJSfxbkStabB_4n27vNEIqW1cgGQ5H232e0eqGRueTecDNGQFdWCbh30aFJFqUfR8HwSump7dpcvD3MSJUxcjBk2KhQRGJE912YLtV3roF8UBpROm39x8sGE7baiQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+060.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> a curious herd of alpacas at 4200m</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8NQGHzvHkQyH1WvrmVTsNyEg3XMwbOG3iPvtcziQjPcyGRDvBneGkOhP8gdyHFKoBWqPHgH8uboxkhtZ-HOO8OVwbcypw_hN1B0Psb-gcc3Y5E9NMiIgRv7yjcDm77pxqGPu7DbNaIQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8NQGHzvHkQyH1WvrmVTsNyEg3XMwbOG3iPvtcziQjPcyGRDvBneGkOhP8gdyHFKoBWqPHgH8uboxkhtZ-HOO8OVwbcypw_hN1B0Psb-gcc3Y5E9NMiIgRv7yjcDm77pxqGPu7DbNaIQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+061.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZOTZfDllMLSOQAVKmzicq2CIeXKvoOk8Xl0tjYy4ET8CxabeKR-kz7fm8ILtfdoAriri_9XKyzlY-lKjLUJU2Ak9-1uT4krIC3G6Ybv_bu_UnWSoQfARpXHKTgE2VmvsCwmMv7vFGmg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+062.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZOTZfDllMLSOQAVKmzicq2CIeXKvoOk8Xl0tjYy4ET8CxabeKR-kz7fm8ILtfdoAriri_9XKyzlY-lKjLUJU2Ak9-1uT4krIC3G6Ybv_bu_UnWSoQfARpXHKTgE2VmvsCwmMv7vFGmg/s400/ayacucho-cusco+062.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the bald rolling landscapes at the top</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2acZ7g8HNqS19HexC2ei2apOhecdxK0f0bIKlzW3Az9KveF4he5QBEPB3AP7NP2qi8f-7kWydq-KZ_tryqCqe-ogOiwVyFzBFx8EwwpAErnq6AbSOOS7ROAIYNeWst3yM0ZlfOwpdGQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2acZ7g8HNqS19HexC2ei2apOhecdxK0f0bIKlzW3Az9KveF4he5QBEPB3AP7NP2qi8f-7kWydq-KZ_tryqCqe-ogOiwVyFzBFx8EwwpAErnq6AbSOOS7ROAIYNeWst3yM0ZlfOwpdGQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+063.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">descending we ran into Sonja and Tom (who had left Ayacucho a day ahead of us) in Nueva Esperanza. This is Tom Lawton (England), whom we had met surfing in El Salvador in November 2010, and who decided to join us here in Perú (starting from Huancayo).</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ER-ujPwS5RGfR7YJDmpcqNcmL4Gj9Ud57R0jeOTih6PikY6j8ZxpTyMDThX3mD3TAAAE5VjHcOGmVmUOPLYeTu7v64Jt8Nm_4XS_-oAj7ESovV3CBhB3fyLs-JtvW5N9vUAWZk97vQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ER-ujPwS5RGfR7YJDmpcqNcmL4Gj9Ud57R0jeOTih6PikY6j8ZxpTyMDThX3mD3TAAAE5VjHcOGmVmUOPLYeTu7v64Jt8Nm_4XS_-oAj7ESovV3CBhB3fyLs-JtvW5N9vUAWZk97vQ/s200/ayacucho-cusco+064.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the indigenous women love Tom, ogling at his blond locks, and giggling everywhere he goes</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2M7WuRbrkVp9QJEll8ADtfdpxWP929eCKdG_1TI6y69zqccwO-Ilpnz26aaZO1NOD1FCQemNXOX6UZA6UnzUhF5FgiNZ87Q122tbWYBnTtrTiWPPNx-g9oWFETjG1hSXz4fjmGVDMQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2M7WuRbrkVp9QJEll8ADtfdpxWP929eCKdG_1TI6y69zqccwO-Ilpnz26aaZO1NOD1FCQemNXOX6UZA6UnzUhF5FgiNZ87Q122tbWYBnTtrTiWPPNx-g9oWFETjG1hSXz4fjmGVDMQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+065.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... in Andahuaylas the firemen hosted us...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEideUKLHBBL2HxMDRCltE8u3vPL2Gu4mnlC5Y-sfA9aZJoVwItK5UP2CU2S2aflNqGBu3x_xaGo4ofvrwTOEWW22Wt9bxzIjEVdiTFKzzOLXaDFlmBxMwzzuvnCtZzrlwNlpHbMlhP7Hw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEideUKLHBBL2HxMDRCltE8u3vPL2Gu4mnlC5Y-sfA9aZJoVwItK5UP2CU2S2aflNqGBu3x_xaGo4ofvrwTOEWW22Wt9bxzIjEVdiTFKzzOLXaDFlmBxMwzzuvnCtZzrlwNlpHbMlhP7Hw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+066.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVX-jVeVFTwhkeuc9GOxICbiHDODPaguAnS6RjPEtDkLVYWMtq5kOrJczstOFKUxZizMgd-BKwLx1WminR0M2E1pt13Cx_AEmjVu5YETzJ7UWVU4AknjaJ2JER4IoOy8A681K5-kEUJQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVX-jVeVFTwhkeuc9GOxICbiHDODPaguAnS6RjPEtDkLVYWMtq5kOrJczstOFKUxZizMgd-BKwLx1WminR0M2E1pt13Cx_AEmjVu5YETzJ7UWVU4AknjaJ2JER4IoOy8A681K5-kEUJQ/s200/ayacucho-cusco+068.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this plate is a Peruvian streetfood gem: "papas con yuyu", or what could be called potatoes with wild spinach; found in the Andahuaylas market</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRf9kw3iGNI2jNet4_whOq_9ZGfGb0vJiNoBlykkf0ZAK8KEpKJnrzw57WQLF5Pp517oHMad_au0ZiLzuHpvXkLLqmlV1m3HEKG_157_6ht2s3vJwOKxFEXbWt-KEEZEeSsPm6bJ7W5w/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRf9kw3iGNI2jNet4_whOq_9ZGfGb0vJiNoBlykkf0ZAK8KEpKJnrzw57WQLF5Pp517oHMad_au0ZiLzuHpvXkLLqmlV1m3HEKG_157_6ht2s3vJwOKxFEXbWt-KEEZEeSsPm6bJ7W5w/s200/ayacucho-cusco+069.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">on the other hand, what we have here is FRESH FROG EXTRACT. The sign says that it can be used to treat headaches, fatigue, anemia, dizziness, anxiety, and problems related to menopause.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikO64sa_aYNGskd7FF3es6VpkUYi1DTOs2843lCLccUlyzqxykyDBBEJVqvhux4obeLSwxQn0e4hmeEWuMDU2rSg_6mzwzj1s7Mza-5qq2rAb-CEXCqjY4mMV-SoUloPdCDEocOwKflw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikO64sa_aYNGskd7FF3es6VpkUYi1DTOs2843lCLccUlyzqxykyDBBEJVqvhux4obeLSwxQn0e4hmeEWuMDU2rSg_6mzwzj1s7Mza-5qq2rAb-CEXCqjY4mMV-SoUloPdCDEocOwKflw/s200/ayacucho-cusco+072.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the only problem is, the frogs are live, and the frog extract is obtained by throwing whole live frogs in the blender, and drinking the juice!!!!!!!!!! Yes, truth be told, we left the Andahuaylas market a little disturbed.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmiUljXuevkl9Fcv5TUX2DzEt53isRQ2is20GyT_LcvwdXAGCAIIcVj6BYcBrsqquThzu59PTa4yRCwDSt0HW4giz1YRUekv0Eadft4kWKbL3lVjbz_uhUZ8t2lukCqbWrZqKP7H473A/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpUbT8hUOhSgQp9PaA1bmuptOM6rioFMW0rFFTMb15x18jU_57DceKuGrjxXtKaBJ2pIExpbIZYevZTqzfVimyX-EkwsF8SncPI_fO1Zl_LWwx2N74W087Uey3wT3PV5_IUoQUQa9qnQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpUbT8hUOhSgQp9PaA1bmuptOM6rioFMW0rFFTMb15x18jU_57DceKuGrjxXtKaBJ2pIExpbIZYevZTqzfVimyX-EkwsF8SncPI_fO1Zl_LWwx2N74W087Uey3wT3PV5_IUoQUQa9qnQ/s200/ayacucho-cusco+070.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this freshly skinned and gutted cuy (guinea pig) added to the macabre scene at the Andahuaylas market</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rusliNYzrATovjnJD7nh_whsrRXqteB9WadkH1nxEjDEy9ebKcXGyQd_cp2z9Jn9W4S6OO92UlzdTWqrY5aO6bVoiE0FXuX6aPVzOJspnmV1PcWRyvXDYEfhIDyhEHLm40nCAFfZmw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rusliNYzrATovjnJD7nh_whsrRXqteB9WadkH1nxEjDEy9ebKcXGyQd_cp2z9Jn9W4S6OO92UlzdTWqrY5aO6bVoiE0FXuX6aPVzOJspnmV1PcWRyvXDYEfhIDyhEHLm40nCAFfZmw/s400/ayacucho-cusco+073.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">leaving Andahuaylas, we headed up our third huge climb, passing through serious potato farming lands</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHN25RPinOwELGAhSDKDcbEJ_B8Iwk3Ety-vhfacX2Ki493LAym33fFth3Tm2XaiRdkXHLr6HGp7cbjSiTNdZ0MvmHGsxogxBeVKOTNn6emc9hHriQB2E4UY3QTuGID5LtcXk3I6XFg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHN25RPinOwELGAhSDKDcbEJ_B8Iwk3Ety-vhfacX2Ki493LAym33fFth3Tm2XaiRdkXHLr6HGp7cbjSiTNdZ0MvmHGsxogxBeVKOTNn6emc9hHriQB2E4UY3QTuGID5LtcXk3I6XFg/s320/ayacucho-cusco+080.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Sonja in mid-afternoon</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ZYBlr-jOZlW5frmyL560Ex_hfhPT8hTmD9HEGkoaCjN47-FZuNGCdNPySMraz6ciJMG6oHUPiqh2fEVt6jga3kPZTvp3ZWLzDBvuJ83tqQJjc1QhYJ5TqJ7PBNUwWO2n7nelz9Pazw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ZYBlr-jOZlW5frmyL560Ex_hfhPT8hTmD9HEGkoaCjN47-FZuNGCdNPySMraz6ciJMG6oHUPiqh2fEVt6jga3kPZTvp3ZWLzDBvuJ83tqQJjc1QhYJ5TqJ7PBNUwWO2n7nelz9Pazw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+074.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">potato fields</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRvirsrj8i4gbK5okqSjvdrDEOwzNi996qglvMlaypegoFMniQXOHVZSoyhZd5o5H_6JfVXb8MB8Q9IXF6Ua6dOMw4VUXV-XYFatEt7ZBn_Hb15Htr46OyqBSnhc2GHo7ezALPCkt3Gg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRvirsrj8i4gbK5okqSjvdrDEOwzNi996qglvMlaypegoFMniQXOHVZSoyhZd5o5H_6JfVXb8MB8Q9IXF6Ua6dOMw4VUXV-XYFatEt7ZBn_Hb15Htr46OyqBSnhc2GHo7ezALPCkt3Gg/s320/ayacucho-cusco+077.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmEtb2lyi464em-dXNQNoCenPFBNbqv37uco_EDNvRQocXw8Uodd-nrAM5B1o1Szdy_4piPwQH-TBGDA1b1n9dJR6TawsMa_JrTXR1GPabt4Mx4EGmpQex1r3p0uNeaYH8XaKuHRwaQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtmEtb2lyi464em-dXNQNoCenPFBNbqv37uco_EDNvRQocXw8Uodd-nrAM5B1o1Szdy_4piPwQH-TBGDA1b1n9dJR6TawsMa_JrTXR1GPabt4Mx4EGmpQex1r3p0uNeaYH8XaKuHRwaQ/s400/ayacucho-cusco+076.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">another look at the extense of potato farming in the area</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Mc6SpziGruKD53TqqM18UiklYAkUnORJqYUo1FjPTsk18zbaMDaBBmiNlCZPlQfKIHbtS-K-t1U4rYau7b2Vs2DtwZs2-b4cwGL_mQiW3fPe8kb39oHtn97XWajEVI3en3ChYxgHdg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Mc6SpziGruKD53TqqM18UiklYAkUnORJqYUo1FjPTsk18zbaMDaBBmiNlCZPlQfKIHbtS-K-t1U4rYau7b2Vs2DtwZs2-b4cwGL_mQiW3fPe8kb39oHtn97XWajEVI3en3ChYxgHdg/s320/ayacucho-cusco+079.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... we camped at 3600m in this grassy meadow next to a stream, making a fire and playing plenty of music</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYJPSU4hYAkGesnr_iRnc-8Tb9wWZR0RnjazAhFoYBsU9Yt_r_9KS4QHUqYA9-TII_tg0BfqaVd3ugEyYZ5DFjCQRVKFTRPuJp1mED2CBagNh6VqMzS10bTaFe6jT4zej3jKSE6qnjNw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYJPSU4hYAkGesnr_iRnc-8Tb9wWZR0RnjazAhFoYBsU9Yt_r_9KS4QHUqYA9-TII_tg0BfqaVd3ugEyYZ5DFjCQRVKFTRPuJp1mED2CBagNh6VqMzS10bTaFe6jT4zej3jKSE6qnjNw/s200/ayacucho-cusco+081.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom practicing ukelele. He also plays guitar and percussion, so he is a more-than-welcome addition to our group.</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfOjFUtieY40rXvOAmq57a-A_EcqedPaAxWOXQsFoszCTWvC10RGSQghiUPHS3cPTf10smkt7S5Qq3xVbl14JgqAQzRizDeTLHaBpdSvbAyoWruFx_UKdCLxZli7oWd1wR0vUujmjd4Q/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfOjFUtieY40rXvOAmq57a-A_EcqedPaAxWOXQsFoszCTWvC10RGSQghiUPHS3cPTf10smkt7S5Qq3xVbl14JgqAQzRizDeTLHaBpdSvbAyoWruFx_UKdCLxZli7oWd1wR0vUujmjd4Q/s400/ayacucho-cusco+082.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">once again we had cold wet weather at the top</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3Fz0BvOFpCHCNI2DeLPLONPwsdp_N1yWrNZXUzgoKr47zSWecNskMYZBLfcDz_rVcOHXpUGeBUursFQHmdXxq9M0QaCMgCWviD4O6K9TeUXTCsdfqfgfKXZnIAw_i47S96K1P8qXlQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3Fz0BvOFpCHCNI2DeLPLONPwsdp_N1yWrNZXUzgoKr47zSWecNskMYZBLfcDz_rVcOHXpUGeBUursFQHmdXxq9M0QaCMgCWviD4O6K9TeUXTCsdfqfgfKXZnIAw_i47S96K1P8qXlQ/s400/ayacucho-cusco+084.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">cycling in these mountains is a dream</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQurfSMw2mFbs_MO1cDO9yfgKCWfHYlNdV94EZBATFKMk_OCRhhUUjYmwxdATk7ttqz27zgk2SUm6OwhRALCgS0-D1xbCzABm4wRZQEhzBH5sUweX2hKdeXZvR9ra1i-BdbXB3VRJJg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEW6MfGjt_cdwBt1kJjCdaZZibYPfTNEu_OOcrNLgye3-l_hR4lF6HGpRRmHfuyNnD_L3dM9EO4-wLt3UzVTH8BLSHpRpldRKPaWN-PXzh0mw5XYa5KNwAEsTA2d9uU6PRMlwG_Lv_1g/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEW6MfGjt_cdwBt1kJjCdaZZibYPfTNEu_OOcrNLgye3-l_hR4lF6HGpRRmHfuyNnD_L3dM9EO4-wLt3UzVTH8BLSHpRpldRKPaWN-PXzh0mw5XYa5KNwAEsTA2d9uU6PRMlwG_Lv_1g/s320/ayacucho-cusco+088.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a good group of five now, beginning a muddy descent</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY4U9lNwLDNK8hJhxukMVRcE5NejBzGdUK7WQACDBrVYonn2HX3tdGIyWyoitI_DPY6HvMre4sVF_wCGfQ8ZHrDH99CIE5M5T0sPczMJcikIe_o64eXj_vmOHx8unoFIY4ckaMANunCg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY4U9lNwLDNK8hJhxukMVRcE5NejBzGdUK7WQACDBrVYonn2HX3tdGIyWyoitI_DPY6HvMre4sVF_wCGfQ8ZHrDH99CIE5M5T0sPczMJcikIe_o64eXj_vmOHx8unoFIY4ckaMANunCg/s400/ayacucho-cusco+089.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">late afternoon landscapes</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE24hE4foateahhAfYccwg77icbD29IIgJmrPdAqebyAhYQPKkDkpV1j0PoKvJQ5nEgvtHIRLY3uD5BZiIpyh_ysgfpdQFJtiU5sxOen8mEdkONfgVehwauxypf6w2CUz20dW8V5CXDw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE24hE4foateahhAfYccwg77icbD29IIgJmrPdAqebyAhYQPKkDkpV1j0PoKvJQ5nEgvtHIRLY3uD5BZiIpyh_ysgfpdQFJtiU5sxOen8mEdkONfgVehwauxypf6w2CUz20dW8V5CXDw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+090.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFtrhGm9cf_tujyHzpE70H8lDNY3z_mI1uhe7UAW5Of3Ztg0BkHaFYgkARqihXpXKRzZM3aCZgoMqF6w28tLRZHoMRTQibZlkcN0dJM8wlSY-WZ7lP36jEXHWMRTHq1-nG9CJuQ31vkw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFtrhGm9cf_tujyHzpE70H8lDNY3z_mI1uhe7UAW5Of3Ztg0BkHaFYgkARqihXpXKRzZM3aCZgoMqF6w28tLRZHoMRTQibZlkcN0dJM8wlSY-WZ7lP36jEXHWMRTHq1-nG9CJuQ31vkw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+091.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY2-gRqWao-PHVsfRGrmCj2cqyftj04ZMZ9r9Y2JNFw35LNekQ-1Q3SWp6kN5tB_o32KpvvQT9yJY6GZpZ93BRe0UzPJ-iVQ7qbspea6EEuckd3UNcIcZp4DgCAdx-UW1ui-iNwieYxg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY2-gRqWao-PHVsfRGrmCj2cqyftj04ZMZ9r9Y2JNFw35LNekQ-1Q3SWp6kN5tB_o32KpvvQT9yJY6GZpZ93BRe0UzPJ-iVQ7qbspea6EEuckd3UNcIcZp4DgCAdx-UW1ui-iNwieYxg/s200/ayacucho-cusco+093.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Sonja got a flat at dusk</div><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQurfSMw2mFbs_MO1cDO9yfgKCWfHYlNdV94EZBATFKMk_OCRhhUUjYmwxdATk7ttqz27zgk2SUm6OwhRALCgS0-D1xbCzABm4wRZQEhzBH5sUweX2hKdeXZvR9ra1i-BdbXB3VRJJg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSQurfSMw2mFbs_MO1cDO9yfgKCWfHYlNdV94EZBATFKMk_OCRhhUUjYmwxdATk7ttqz27zgk2SUm6OwhRALCgS0-D1xbCzABm4wRZQEhzBH5sUweX2hKdeXZvR9ra1i-BdbXB3VRJJg/s400/ayacucho-cusco+094.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">amazing riding here</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgezrFot71Zz6GCy0o_6fcwQy7F_5XP7T1YYmAgUj79be7aRLtt0Zy5iyp8zbAU9PNs5RvDXzyzDQDAioFMIpElCpbOEZkyJMy_VQDDGGerK7MPdYIK90TqRoin-4TTAlrl2E8HPQS4Yw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+099.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgezrFot71Zz6GCy0o_6fcwQy7F_5XP7T1YYmAgUj79be7aRLtt0Zy5iyp8zbAU9PNs5RvDXzyzDQDAioFMIpElCpbOEZkyJMy_VQDDGGerK7MPdYIK90TqRoin-4TTAlrl2E8HPQS4Yw/s200/ayacucho-cusco+099.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">along the descent we spent the night in a storehouse for fertilizers</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1srrQ6tCxfN5VCYFedmuyp5JqBFmEcWc39UrSuT1QzXLTGKnFvIMXQvgVYgvVFtQqg3cQTKP7Kc7D_UOX0QTvsxQ5sqZHc0gjFe5tQRs1FzwOD4fTxKxjTcteLXB2c5BJPy3_TJ27jA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1srrQ6tCxfN5VCYFedmuyp5JqBFmEcWc39UrSuT1QzXLTGKnFvIMXQvgVYgvVFtQqg3cQTKP7Kc7D_UOX0QTvsxQ5sqZHc0gjFe5tQRs1FzwOD4fTxKxjTcteLXB2c5BJPy3_TJ27jA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+098.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is Abancay, still over 1000 meters below us, backed by a snowy peak</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8cq5moD3ozjqjzxoxlVXgqoWoAJCVN408A-qTapXTO62cas16-vr5seM4Syi5R3yC1GLI-C0ZKNITAShiRqaIuvr4qVeMmsZv0w96YHoA9QY1mDybXJJs0OEwj7WpNXf1c6Exa8kELQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8cq5moD3ozjqjzxoxlVXgqoWoAJCVN408A-qTapXTO62cas16-vr5seM4Syi5R3yC1GLI-C0ZKNITAShiRqaIuvr4qVeMmsZv0w96YHoA9QY1mDybXJJs0OEwj7WpNXf1c6Exa8kELQ/s400/ayacucho-cusco+101.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">continuing the descent the following morning</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUxKNocYEpMumaVNr7y_08UHeIDNrNYE6p-mREWTvhHNn3MH19fjmyt6kf94qZhc7Tc_uR25_Z2MZrAQPOBpkgCLalgNyI4b6Dtgl3YQCb0t0LNQ3lNKJEcBen2A187dgXxhy4Pkf1ng/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUxKNocYEpMumaVNr7y_08UHeIDNrNYE6p-mREWTvhHNn3MH19fjmyt6kf94qZhc7Tc_uR25_Z2MZrAQPOBpkgCLalgNyI4b6Dtgl3YQCb0t0LNQ3lNKJEcBen2A187dgXxhy4Pkf1ng/s320/ayacucho-cusco+104.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">again, amazing dirt road, lots of curves and hairpins, down into the canyon</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWtKqitGKNDRCYP_xV8mV8daQk5DDEcUdx82PHQ4PZu743N6l53UG9IrgHroT28GvzjV8nED-R2oEiR0-kpyw8vz1TWx4BZyMDrm1Qo98tbSidHqpWy31_-s6UujZkxjeRk1wMZ9FqAA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWtKqitGKNDRCYP_xV8mV8daQk5DDEcUdx82PHQ4PZu743N6l53UG9IrgHroT28GvzjV8nED-R2oEiR0-kpyw8vz1TWx4BZyMDrm1Qo98tbSidHqpWy31_-s6UujZkxjeRk1wMZ9FqAA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+106.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom enjoying the ride</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLdVorO8IJw07-2pLbMcl_AHEE21ATACSkTHm-HTjIKQEgLkuHXL6VulS18eyqQZXZ0j_ci9VQdNmlVrBzgTAa9M0HjLaEdTHr1WzDyDqxoSruYJIFp1CsMziq3elFaFD8Ne1hzHjoBA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLdVorO8IJw07-2pLbMcl_AHEE21ATACSkTHm-HTjIKQEgLkuHXL6VulS18eyqQZXZ0j_ci9VQdNmlVrBzgTAa9M0HjLaEdTHr1WzDyDqxoSruYJIFp1CsMziq3elFaFD8Ne1hzHjoBA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+110.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">at the bottom we ran into the main paved highway from Lima to Cusco, and we switched to skinny road tires here</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0OY2JwytNhhyphenhyphenpMq3zt75OJXfpqylioGRhQt9-66iOeEq_TMBCcPMfATXsDDYbvq_3BzPcC3depAWOksTEEXupA1SCnPksB_Hd5lFt1lWxmeoDxt2z76tmhZONmUfOBAnDDwJMGmyMcw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0OY2JwytNhhyphenhyphenpMq3zt75OJXfpqylioGRhQt9-66iOeEq_TMBCcPMfATXsDDYbvq_3BzPcC3depAWOksTEEXupA1SCnPksB_Hd5lFt1lWxmeoDxt2z76tmhZONmUfOBAnDDwJMGmyMcw/s200/ayacucho-cusco+111.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Abancay was to be the last stop before Cusco</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGmZ6UAj8jl4xyZ8WTuV5P5HAD6L683vaePgQkvh9L858VLF2Qr12mzuMLHrJ8J_Xu9IXRAPQKWsd3QHP3eHjLrvTf6kLrgJTQylOFYP0C-svsJFm8upvzHOttflSj9oFLriq_jjN94Q/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGmZ6UAj8jl4xyZ8WTuV5P5HAD6L683vaePgQkvh9L858VLF2Qr12mzuMLHrJ8J_Xu9IXRAPQKWsd3QHP3eHjLrvTf6kLrgJTQylOFYP0C-svsJFm8upvzHOttflSj9oFLriq_jjN94Q/s200/ayacucho-cusco+114.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">tarantula seen on road leaving Abancay</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjsKo1SHDEPzZAHEo66Wmn49Cv9YsOPJc93_wJv45s3_SH7MHLYRq4asGRFhZTQBwGXzHLzdqHjaX7JJ246GghzT-jk5zBKbaRfeioSUusSgwjTQfo-lEU2vwGFSFu_5NkZxIhbGsuDQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjsKo1SHDEPzZAHEo66Wmn49Cv9YsOPJc93_wJv45s3_SH7MHLYRq4asGRFhZTQBwGXzHLzdqHjaX7JJ246GghzT-jk5zBKbaRfeioSUusSgwjTQfo-lEU2vwGFSFu_5NkZxIhbGsuDQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+120.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">roadside cemetary</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtWVjlRz8aAFLF7SXm5TtAvUkJbWqX-jD5zHiEl6YAOD0NlLAwdn-SzTA2J1H251SqksWCZwEhcX-I745xp9h796mKeKMI2PsIO3wMJ-1_bVZXkHGbrgIjz4dTynr9fSIZycmmqEqX9Q/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtWVjlRz8aAFLF7SXm5TtAvUkJbWqX-jD5zHiEl6YAOD0NlLAwdn-SzTA2J1H251SqksWCZwEhcX-I745xp9h796mKeKMI2PsIO3wMJ-1_bVZXkHGbrgIjz4dTynr9fSIZycmmqEqX9Q/s320/ayacucho-cusco+116.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we camped at a bend in the highway halfway up the fourth big climb of this segment.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrUQ8swp95VD0xoks-CKKI373xR48NhMgTLJSgFMNqoU3Dl_7GNz44YmQsMdF85vs1QJ3C48GAK-9shmoDyPUbdNfR-H4S_T9BNXsKN9o-qpWtZdr1clLnL1QTsJaAC-ax-DFN0izQFA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrUQ8swp95VD0xoks-CKKI373xR48NhMgTLJSgFMNqoU3Dl_7GNz44YmQsMdF85vs1QJ3C48GAK-9shmoDyPUbdNfR-H4S_T9BNXsKN9o-qpWtZdr1clLnL1QTsJaAC-ax-DFN0izQFA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+117.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">local house</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJxT0M6f6OyK9oAp55xE-hsW7aOUMCeYUzFhEg7R0wUPdtRvMoji9kynAkxfqAt_dvuKdYBpx3ZoNDJf_tR0kHq_5urGH3kDpuLqHtUv1MVUqnqXPKC4xoMDbGrQXvZbWTGxunXdfnw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJxT0M6f6OyK9oAp55xE-hsW7aOUMCeYUzFhEg7R0wUPdtRvMoji9kynAkxfqAt_dvuKdYBpx3ZoNDJf_tR0kHq_5urGH3kDpuLqHtUv1MVUqnqXPKC4xoMDbGrQXvZbWTGxunXdfnw/s400/ayacucho-cusco+119.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">climbing still the following morning, backed by the huge valley of Abancay</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjay9c-UHhjGBzGVG186eNmTTLkSdKa3c5U9YgXGm6qwF1mBZ9raMWhkx8d26t7d9xj8CmO5l4S207rMPIv6rJy1zXtFzWHM0jmzjJQEfYHpmES33MrR7gK6FSGRQsKsmoI5HAI52AyLQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjay9c-UHhjGBzGVG186eNmTTLkSdKa3c5U9YgXGm6qwF1mBZ9raMWhkx8d26t7d9xj8CmO5l4S207rMPIv6rJy1zXtFzWHM0jmzjJQEfYHpmES33MrR7gK6FSGRQsKsmoI5HAI52AyLQ/s400/ayacucho-cusco+122.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">view from the top, 3800m or so</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuaTvyj58fPYwB91-cDYqwYHt9iC6-EqjF_IQsjK9awhkhh0OapLfkGk23Hod6TcXOxmbtsQfMuLJYAnYTrKBQwChqxyDZPE5u2_xLLwZVsBzkBQWusPI6uAfAyJW_RPmr-HOJ6Kfngw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuaTvyj58fPYwB91-cDYqwYHt9iC6-EqjF_IQsjK9awhkhh0OapLfkGk23Hod6TcXOxmbtsQfMuLJYAnYTrKBQwChqxyDZPE5u2_xLLwZVsBzkBQWusPI6uAfAyJW_RPmr-HOJ6Kfngw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+125.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tom fell sick (terrible diarrhea and fatigue) on this stretch and hitched on a truck to Curahuasi</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6Ksu0C5scHgsB4iGVFBmMbONaXC2rgXA1rmTt_dA_nPUsXH-o-zSOmk21BaiL-hCx_BbnIhwfTRoqLutJhyOQSxyfXmMCltD9jOrQa84Rl-Xl99JMz2J2ufZAAKcZ8xXlFjMDyrkNw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6Ksu0C5scHgsB4iGVFBmMbONaXC2rgXA1rmTt_dA_nPUsXH-o-zSOmk21BaiL-hCx_BbnIhwfTRoqLutJhyOQSxyfXmMCltD9jOrQa84Rl-Xl99JMz2J2ufZAAKcZ8xXlFjMDyrkNw/s200/ayacucho-cusco+126.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the health clinic in Curahuasi somehow thought it a good idea to put him in the hospital for 24 hours</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE7ct6yaBGnq1UztoSLhgZt-ptI5MQs3-fB6NzQpWnSLsKFkdmIRI0GrkY5DH5ZAakpL9skqHyp3j5j16GfgF3CKMnGemJgR8568uIbD2s8LzYuY4CXLCjANNeilYyOWBOYzKQSVWgfw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE7ct6yaBGnq1UztoSLhgZt-ptI5MQs3-fB6NzQpWnSLsKFkdmIRI0GrkY5DH5ZAakpL9skqHyp3j5j16GfgF3CKMnGemJgR8568uIbD2s8LzYuY4CXLCjANNeilYyOWBOYzKQSVWgfw/s400/ayacucho-cusco+135.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">While Tom was in the hospital, Jeff went for a dayhike up to the miradors of Captain Rumi and San Cristóbal near Curahuasi.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpCkaUZIf-kzJVBweL_mk_fPQYHP70TOUNCce996T6sg64iP-zdG2GPfvzxcDgy1kL6FyT45NTsNTo_0jNmym9R6vwsEzwIDtUzhz2SNSSkpp5ZkG3T2RZXn61QdRFPaAtNTlRSQo3EA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpCkaUZIf-kzJVBweL_mk_fPQYHP70TOUNCce996T6sg64iP-zdG2GPfvzxcDgy1kL6FyT45NTsNTo_0jNmym9R6vwsEzwIDtUzhz2SNSSkpp5ZkG3T2RZXn61QdRFPaAtNTlRSQo3EA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+137.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">one of the deepest canyons in the world, that is the Apurímac River down below. </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDxv4spEiMmgu3lhCdp93McX79THSPZjkqAAJrburCGmmIiGiePg4u4bYw55Ai2pG1n0o_amUsBtOwUUQ1roavryZbIBHooVldI_TM00WDTrNnP7zoT-lQ_0zcanB7teauHA3WPRO2nQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDxv4spEiMmgu3lhCdp93McX79THSPZjkqAAJrburCGmmIiGiePg4u4bYw55Ai2pG1n0o_amUsBtOwUUQ1roavryZbIBHooVldI_TM00WDTrNnP7zoT-lQ_0zcanB7teauHA3WPRO2nQ/s400/ayacucho-cusco+141.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">above the canyon are snow-capped peaks, including Salkantay at over 6300m</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENLTgA4PLPH8O7ozLt3k4LRcmglxjre_bmHaVJzSeF3W2U9SY__Vws6KjUtTXIHjfUOX9DJCg0Q9Tpd7Ua8RZKhAQ8X6hByNamkJAVUGvCpIlHnlqXNt86-K9Nqzma6eRMY4vlCR37Q/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENLTgA4PLPH8O7ozLt3k4LRcmglxjre_bmHaVJzSeF3W2U9SY__Vws6KjUtTXIHjfUOX9DJCg0Q9Tpd7Ua8RZKhAQ8X6hByNamkJAVUGvCpIlHnlqXNt86-K9Nqzma6eRMY4vlCR37Q/s200/ayacucho-cusco+143.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">company of goats near the mirador</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHw0mq_XKQ8IT1NqxzYy1T_4btS-8z7f0Cgrdmv3OGfbYhbBJ_RoJqBvUKFpVEuWBaMMGPJsJsfXqWKKmli14Y9B27v4l6WiOFPqX_wa7Bq0GlZzJyqOg9s8FkP79nWf2QaUqtmcEPvg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHw0mq_XKQ8IT1NqxzYy1T_4btS-8z7f0Cgrdmv3OGfbYhbBJ_RoJqBvUKFpVEuWBaMMGPJsJsfXqWKKmli14Y9B27v4l6WiOFPqX_wa7Bq0GlZzJyqOg9s8FkP79nWf2QaUqtmcEPvg/s400/ayacucho-cusco+140.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">another look at the Apurímac Canyon. Apparently Andean condors pass by here routinely, but none on this day.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgysxP2X1jDgeLQqSEocX9SjFkfu6FSNplcOQBIL8AT041mwrOBnrslEMUWraCsum1_8dK9hcI0mz0bznrH39rFJejy3rgL1PlJaL02N1K1LH4OSqnAymYiVFM9_bkge_nC9LIV54FOSw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgysxP2X1jDgeLQqSEocX9SjFkfu6FSNplcOQBIL8AT041mwrOBnrslEMUWraCsum1_8dK9hcI0mz0bznrH39rFJejy3rgL1PlJaL02N1K1LH4OSqnAymYiVFM9_bkge_nC9LIV54FOSw/s200/ayacucho-cusco+144.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... heading out of Curahuasi, Jeff´s turn to be ill. He was stricken with food poisoning from the previous evening´s plate of street food. Vomiting, nausea, and severe dizziness...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ONMv3WCBHtvRX1Gs464r_P2VZOg48Gt4NNSP_ens4UGI5wXAhrsQ-l6r_nN5Bb4S7Whg3jd1lGg4o06YOGdggldjw6IOWJ9Iml0yrelNcjkVNPV85GXDqDsGYZPfizcANBFA_9J9eQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ONMv3WCBHtvRX1Gs464r_P2VZOg48Gt4NNSP_ens4UGI5wXAhrsQ-l6r_nN5Bb4S7Whg3jd1lGg4o06YOGdggldjw6IOWJ9Iml0yrelNcjkVNPV85GXDqDsGYZPfizcANBFA_9J9eQ/s200/ayacucho-cusco+163.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPtDJsRQPbFChvwaLVqx4so47cykn08ZCNP4NDXi1396Rkgvucq3UTUai5VG02FGPTSDdFSepmbtz42VLFCNG8GZCU4JXIv0-miCx5r0Ar6fRp_nFqDCFsB3O5EVps4IiPNYVM-w8WmA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPtDJsRQPbFChvwaLVqx4so47cykn08ZCNP4NDXi1396Rkgvucq3UTUai5VG02FGPTSDdFSepmbtz42VLFCNG8GZCU4JXIv0-miCx5r0Ar6fRp_nFqDCFsB3O5EVps4IiPNYVM-w8WmA/s400/ayacucho-cusco+149.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">heading down into the Apurímac Canyon, lots of curves once again.</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7uGnvpbEWuCZqigNJU3T3RO-kbTgRzmiS_7VaGQ26QTZHFAgN1TUKVNiRb6PQMpgnoV1UBGff428uoVwacC9rZn5Ijx8hOEOPcNBXYf4Nov3kxoU56OrzoF9v_GfRx8b-AuvWXcPYDg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7uGnvpbEWuCZqigNJU3T3RO-kbTgRzmiS_7VaGQ26QTZHFAgN1TUKVNiRb6PQMpgnoV1UBGff428uoVwacC9rZn5Ijx8hOEOPcNBXYf4Nov3kxoU56OrzoF9v_GfRx8b-AuvWXcPYDg/s200/ayacucho-cusco+166.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we camped at the bridge at the bottom, where the insidious black flies did a number on Tom overnight.</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0C7Uw0M91pA7_erqvIYvlltao69UfZT4r3AFym5DpuR0dxlhNBjnYYCFQU96S0bknAGReoOLD0XBY0gVe6iqqvLJ939kr1vswOlaJjQTUfIe7jP2IMrFayaEpIjfBwqlyBTQakT91Q/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0C7Uw0M91pA7_erqvIYvlltao69UfZT4r3AFym5DpuR0dxlhNBjnYYCFQU96S0bknAGReoOLD0XBY0gVe6iqqvLJ939kr1vswOlaJjQTUfIe7jP2IMrFayaEpIjfBwqlyBTQakT91Q/s400/ayacucho-cusco+152.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the Apurímac River</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhkd6aiYngIX6RngbfPNJ8E3Z29gVzVsucKjdWfk1Dmmz-7iDHfIU6Nun-3v505WGfqo1QZD2rL9mO_Nuc_IPqppltrPpbAoZlr3nTaSIIXoLuQDlQ9fzDQWqz1_bk_DuL4w0scjz5qg/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhkd6aiYngIX6RngbfPNJ8E3Z29gVzVsucKjdWfk1Dmmz-7iDHfIU6Nun-3v505WGfqo1QZD2rL9mO_Nuc_IPqppltrPpbAoZlr3nTaSIIXoLuQDlQ9fzDQWqz1_bk_DuL4w0scjz5qg/s200/ayacucho-cusco+153.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">parrot sighted on the climb out</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkvAWxH9UYzvNu2iIhUEbZleDhcXbakueYSqjGlC8n55gEZwkrU5_cNaeEJkEQ9D0rHcEvMshjOEZC07a5ZWxvSh9zkvENOsvPJMSD4XB0KyUoJSVj2aLmG4HkM9wlorU-04KluQ5-NA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkvAWxH9UYzvNu2iIhUEbZleDhcXbakueYSqjGlC8n55gEZwkrU5_cNaeEJkEQ9D0rHcEvMshjOEZC07a5ZWxvSh9zkvENOsvPJMSD4XB0KyUoJSVj2aLmG4HkM9wlorU-04KluQ5-NA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+154.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">looking back down from halfway up the fifth climb </div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP30ppE0MWSJuLpuLeBHiLMOqEX_X7cOvRyv5C6BSMaNr88Njx-e-ZtpI3T6A7cPCmEn6LWtEaFomPj3aOkdsCFWS29WKGu76orSLz1LfiqbH_q57wjExm1XFdGCxRx_B5Vyc2BAygMQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP30ppE0MWSJuLpuLeBHiLMOqEX_X7cOvRyv5C6BSMaNr88Njx-e-ZtpI3T6A7cPCmEn6LWtEaFomPj3aOkdsCFWS29WKGu76orSLz1LfiqbH_q57wjExm1XFdGCxRx_B5Vyc2BAygMQ/s400/ayacucho-cusco+156.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">lots of snowy mountains in the distance approaching the pass</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm6XYgNdJSdGIHbISNTZkxz_mMIuXsqHrkgvrrIZdkUPpAe6O-9OM7-VOVhvdJaWYo0kQ_q-P8uyXpcdQCqd9ELXqgD-isrkYZP4F5oYgDgeJ9EzHOWt4-tG7hJGKUE_3Lw7LgO5WX9A/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm6XYgNdJSdGIHbISNTZkxz_mMIuXsqHrkgvrrIZdkUPpAe6O-9OM7-VOVhvdJaWYo0kQ_q-P8uyXpcdQCqd9ELXqgD-isrkYZP4F5oYgDgeJ9EzHOWt4-tG7hJGKUE_3Lw7LgO5WX9A/s320/ayacucho-cusco+157.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...near Anta...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsMo6dUtpDO5EaqyH-WqO_1PqnGGybfettMog5KODPgE6r4BLQ-1O-PNNbYZwR-VQfwmcQ3ThQAmb0_FruKg9tqthlSsS2TzzFPRtSHBTk1ERQPNI8DCf9ojqWp7Wylnz-54nZU9KAw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsMo6dUtpDO5EaqyH-WqO_1PqnGGybfettMog5KODPgE6r4BLQ-1O-PNNbYZwR-VQfwmcQ3ThQAmb0_FruKg9tqthlSsS2TzzFPRtSHBTk1ERQPNI8DCf9ojqWp7Wylnz-54nZU9KAw/s400/ayacucho-cusco+158.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiONng1bmwCn5s9Jk-q9hQkx7TjjIMwCYc9r4GMqklyVrsCBgSNVjTvfhMbUAQ5De34f8THYlNLrHfLxzBwdkRgBKLX_1xk0RPS4m5Fftr6FEmtU6I-1hsIEPFQkTw_8xhNJmtT5lq5iQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiONng1bmwCn5s9Jk-q9hQkx7TjjIMwCYc9r4GMqklyVrsCBgSNVjTvfhMbUAQ5De34f8THYlNLrHfLxzBwdkRgBKLX_1xk0RPS4m5Fftr6FEmtU6I-1hsIEPFQkTw_8xhNJmtT5lq5iQ/s200/ayacucho-cusco+160.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff was bit by another dog (second in Peru) just after Anta. This was a huge mean dog, and punishment of death was not out of the question, but the dog hid in a nearby house after being pelted by a rock thrown at high speed.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNYxhL0LQenPo5eB92T4e_1AU4rQVGQ2xEZqtWTDHHMJZnD9Z6vqe5lm69fYSHGC3T3eA0vZil-2Rod-QZ9mpT0v1i5SVI41Jrn8y-r0NARdxkmp18ySx4VIpABk-JctSPmbw-YZlfkw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNYxhL0LQenPo5eB92T4e_1AU4rQVGQ2xEZqtWTDHHMJZnD9Z6vqe5lm69fYSHGC3T3eA0vZil-2Rod-QZ9mpT0v1i5SVI41Jrn8y-r0NARdxkmp18ySx4VIpABk-JctSPmbw-YZlfkw/s400/ayacucho-cusco+161.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">entering Cusco in late afternoon</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiODXn9dfAYh7HwUxH-aCvoj7ilMYCwKPKKz4BKA6jDbonXP4Pehzjuw6JEGOaMp7z1Ci03DErVcOffXj77-d0ynXTEKGcgMw59fTNhEUU56gycVrKvmb1KHGjhdEh_sIqzAXSZmaymmQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiODXn9dfAYh7HwUxH-aCvoj7ilMYCwKPKKz4BKA6jDbonXP4Pehzjuw6JEGOaMp7z1Ci03DErVcOffXj77-d0ynXTEKGcgMw59fTNhEUU56gycVrKvmb1KHGjhdEh_sIqzAXSZmaymmQ/s320/ayacucho-cusco+168.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we regrouped in Cusco and hit the streets for some wandering music jams</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvqLTSHeOCXiMY57sFPVEM2yfqZVIFz8dUNJLp1t5lJILKH0Si_wnOAX67X_BNYJG5iMWz_pgctrPkUTACR_txHGMVrfPBYEAj8MjNlA9u0YFcshhliaHwsEU8Sl9CawDCJ8XzsYAeQ/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvqLTSHeOCXiMY57sFPVEM2yfqZVIFz8dUNJLp1t5lJILKH0Si_wnOAX67X_BNYJG5iMWz_pgctrPkUTACR_txHGMVrfPBYEAj8MjNlA9u0YFcshhliaHwsEU8Sl9CawDCJ8XzsYAeQ/s200/ayacucho-cusco+169.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">here our friend Kiko (Madrid) is entertaining a bunch of adolescents in a Cusco pedestrian area</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7fz4LgLN-jS5lKgyAU0egXCYwlXhUdcZNXOoetIfKDA_gArD_PkscK_8neElduAoFGPtFnKMxEH2k5KIWTXdjeoIwycfQ-QTb94VOPfKOO2rg0OjMfD2PzhT27ITbZpdBEdZW5UlNgw/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7fz4LgLN-jS5lKgyAU0egXCYwlXhUdcZNXOoetIfKDA_gArD_PkscK_8neElduAoFGPtFnKMxEH2k5KIWTXdjeoIwycfQ-QTb94VOPfKOO2rg0OjMfD2PzhT27ITbZpdBEdZW5UlNgw/s320/ayacucho-cusco+171.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">wandering the atmospheric Cusco at night with its preserved Incan walls</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKuXT6ihIeDzwrim8O98dbSIZKrWzj60kN2SApWAfpP7uGseKUWrchoNK14RcB4MQSKyBm8ZkP7YSHuxA9XgzwB6Yb-ewPDGi_BnMWNz_njvNi-2M8hVvdXMLwV2kqZjHeI9Y5U_LA8Q/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKuXT6ihIeDzwrim8O98dbSIZKrWzj60kN2SApWAfpP7uGseKUWrchoNK14RcB4MQSKyBm8ZkP7YSHuxA9XgzwB6Yb-ewPDGi_BnMWNz_njvNi-2M8hVvdXMLwV2kqZjHeI9Y5U_LA8Q/s200/ayacucho-cusco+174.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jason and Kiko discussing kung fu</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7F14hDQOW49gxRyHTKvaU4If0SD_AAIIK1753ixmxQvp-9qIBAJ-N-gUg0ulWIuGHYdAvwvyac3bMrjpEWAcsI8dC-nrcb2zkOIdu3_zA86U8OkKdx-fLMAVGPwk6tWefpt6rHq67g/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7F14hDQOW49gxRyHTKvaU4If0SD_AAIIK1753ixmxQvp-9qIBAJ-N-gUg0ulWIuGHYdAvwvyac3bMrjpEWAcsI8dC-nrcb2zkOIdu3_zA86U8OkKdx-fLMAVGPwk6tWefpt6rHq67g/s200/ayacucho-cusco+172.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">perfect Incan joints</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzfj9y2Y1x6z5PQ8Ps_4xqDufqG90hXZJn-0yBnNUzQgq7QX9I80FyLP-1QLWXG-RURXJooamuKsXVMSqYuV5u000Lnbjq73jxkae93X2uQAu07nEI1b4ldeXNKnXhQ7gbTmkmI7cDCA/s1600/ayacucho-cusco+177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzfj9y2Y1x6z5PQ8Ps_4xqDufqG90hXZJn-0yBnNUzQgq7QX9I80FyLP-1QLWXG-RURXJooamuKsXVMSqYuV5u000Lnbjq73jxkae93X2uQAu07nEI1b4ldeXNKnXhQ7gbTmkmI7cDCA/s320/ayacucho-cusco+177.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">at Hostal Delcy near mercado San Pedro, keeping up the music vibes with other travellers</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-22821281271654979292011-10-18T13:03:00.002-10:002011-11-06T13:49:21.015-10:00Segment 44: Huaraz, Peru to Ayacucho, Peru (September 19 - 30, 2011)After several weeks in Huaraz, it was time to ride again... this stretch to Ayacucho turned out to be shocking for its scenery and challenging and rewarding riding:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYnnaNqTg7sh81rONIEMyyvGQiAcw0Ql-gaCSX_VLzo7QNYKzT_zK339kNlQ2BOUWUjbNbuWObeJSBK6soVdKBKDhCIuP5yWpTU2kc3VSVptNssQjWx16x22R8Rr33tf6ssgx2v2LROQ/s1600/P1060278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYnnaNqTg7sh81rONIEMyyvGQiAcw0Ql-gaCSX_VLzo7QNYKzT_zK339kNlQ2BOUWUjbNbuWObeJSBK6soVdKBKDhCIuP5yWpTU2kc3VSVptNssQjWx16x22R8Rr33tf6ssgx2v2LROQ/s200/P1060278.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Arnaud, now without his trailer (he rode Alaska to Quito with a trailer)... it turned out to be too much trouble on the rough dirt roads</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiImkVV0t5oyb3nv2xZGyw7OH6TWpVkkyoKtSUD0qQiZs2sBJiDnIH9zAA6zYpKoFhSuxJbZ458So8HExksvFPQkyEevSgRAvVsF8-GVdnnX_9noBUSOdHdukrPmnG6eDEsKoySdGS3JA/s1600/P1060268-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiImkVV0t5oyb3nv2xZGyw7OH6TWpVkkyoKtSUD0qQiZs2sBJiDnIH9zAA6zYpKoFhSuxJbZ458So8HExksvFPQkyEevSgRAvVsF8-GVdnnX_9noBUSOdHdukrPmnG6eDEsKoySdGS3JA/s320/P1060268-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">At Pachacoto, shortly after Catac, we turned off the main road and headed up this gravel road into the Cordillera Blanca.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTqJcoNELGsYqZn-sw1t-IBnnNgRfZsnd6g5EZZT928bKCDJAa9Gvuiu8D9r4jrp8a_gtWYgDNmC-rF8vg6TcS07b9aPI2o-LCTc1Vp8TFadK4RXVZ6-GDKyLfvI3Lc680_8H1UvMFw/s1600/P1060276-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTqJcoNELGsYqZn-sw1t-IBnnNgRfZsnd6g5EZZT928bKCDJAa9Gvuiu8D9r4jrp8a_gtWYgDNmC-rF8vg6TcS07b9aPI2o-LCTc1Vp8TFadK4RXVZ6-GDKyLfvI3Lc680_8H1UvMFw/s400/P1060276-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">as you can see it started off pretty well</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5-UK7hFNWv0m9BGt650QFh2IPoMOMC7gr3BaOW2yYoPRBugKymwRB8xBEhexIxClWycrrDNJCqzoKLoMvxI22-QrvZWAUSF9YcfB8o5X6Lyy-BCmDYQWUTo7llFBnbcsltDVuZewOkw/s1600/P1060297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5-UK7hFNWv0m9BGt650QFh2IPoMOMC7gr3BaOW2yYoPRBugKymwRB8xBEhexIxClWycrrDNJCqzoKLoMvxI22-QrvZWAUSF9YcfB8o5X6Lyy-BCmDYQWUTo7llFBnbcsltDVuZewOkw/s200/P1060297.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">low traffic on this route, this comby van has a number of sheep tied to the roof, West-Africa-style</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmGGjOyUC1ByzNpMKz0g3UkSDyFYJJzZDVlt3IFIsaHZ-Sx_nzmzQ8LiOcLYm6mtbXlY2GUkHe0JVks7OCMsCzZn77JSaxbOiyb2ohpHbhsvJf-y7PAREzzw2PEOMqM3jkjx_JZE8p4A/s1600/P1060301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmGGjOyUC1ByzNpMKz0g3UkSDyFYJJzZDVlt3IFIsaHZ-Sx_nzmzQ8LiOcLYm6mtbXlY2GUkHe0JVks7OCMsCzZn77JSaxbOiyb2ohpHbhsvJf-y7PAREzzw2PEOMqM3jkjx_JZE8p4A/s320/P1060301.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... these fantastic plants are Puna Raymondi, a unique high-Andes species found along this road in a few patches. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6mCwX-q9tj6H22wZKu2TSNSV3Whdyk4a5AVuKwFodk_1sz7XUTRKDm33wg1iHsTlzudLnU1zAZT1Wb-8itm6rJprMQPoohwOo8L1p9yrNZ_YrXrWZyx2_qQPZcx-_C6bn2y8atmCJw/s1600/P1060311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp6mCwX-q9tj6H22wZKu2TSNSV3Whdyk4a5AVuKwFodk_1sz7XUTRKDm33wg1iHsTlzudLnU1zAZT1Wb-8itm6rJprMQPoohwOo8L1p9yrNZ_YrXrWZyx2_qQPZcx-_C6bn2y8atmCJw/s320/P1060311.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyDpS9GYVG7GwEqdMajNyZK8W7K_AkneFTDH0tTcsjr8e65xWuRYnKDt0iveJe1vFcV3lT8MeznVI50Dr1tgz5xwjQ8JuTMNVY0GroimOK4duog7kKVMJpMUAA32KlD-45rB3SaCSjCg/s1600/P1060325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyDpS9GYVG7GwEqdMajNyZK8W7K_AkneFTDH0tTcsjr8e65xWuRYnKDt0iveJe1vFcV3lT8MeznVI50Dr1tgz5xwjQ8JuTMNVY0GroimOK4duog7kKVMJpMUAA32KlD-45rB3SaCSjCg/s400/P1060325.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... the route keeps getting better...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQKqLdyPfelKMw4aGuhw2LNMML40sMkiK8bWclpzFaO_0ZQKrQ1FXQvIZkWDN6aetgFU3SEQkGToP8JDH8DClpmrIiIYH730lXnjkct8CXnMxcXdtDgKaGE_pDce02EYMkxtHc4uXkMA/s1600/P1060327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQKqLdyPfelKMw4aGuhw2LNMML40sMkiK8bWclpzFaO_0ZQKrQ1FXQvIZkWDN6aetgFU3SEQkGToP8JDH8DClpmrIiIYH730lXnjkct8CXnMxcXdtDgKaGE_pDce02EYMkxtHc4uXkMA/s320/P1060327.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbdHAR2Uqs55o6fasFvXMiptjfSgct0HhyE0bSC19dHgjUS_khPwNU-xb6rnHQy6SgQqLgmay-9ndVP3M9es0cBSL73muG3Bviebhq9p2c6gwU4s5ho2Yxoe3v8V_w2T4Ebu2i-sc1Mw/s1600/P1060334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbdHAR2Uqs55o6fasFvXMiptjfSgct0HhyE0bSC19dHgjUS_khPwNU-xb6rnHQy6SgQqLgmay-9ndVP3M9es0cBSL73muG3Bviebhq9p2c6gwU4s5ho2Yxoe3v8V_w2T4Ebu2i-sc1Mw/s200/P1060334.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">rock paintings</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_-69dy0X0oC7Kkd08hFy_f-g8A0vN4QQatyJaLT-FnaJjhMD_XVhkhvGEXc9tu4mBEoeHf79PNcwMC5VhYbTPpit9MZ25KWBUnOZfqSFxaaVrE3RTjIqOetA-B-_XHHXI8c9R53TRkw/s1600/P1060341-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_-69dy0X0oC7Kkd08hFy_f-g8A0vN4QQatyJaLT-FnaJjhMD_XVhkhvGEXc9tu4mBEoeHf79PNcwMC5VhYbTPpit9MZ25KWBUnOZfqSFxaaVrE3RTjIqOetA-B-_XHHXI8c9R53TRkw/s320/P1060341-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">at over 4500m (nearly 15,000 feet) here, we are beginning to be hit by an afternoon storm - COLD!!!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyNZrhLZUiLdEwYb46BcksquERsg34C7p-tKo8DwRz2JhSxy6HfloX7YvMil8k5FUy1EuYVFuQb2aQ4j-Ym4Hxd_whhuA7wMpO89LEpBlGSrB4dA5TUr5-S9tytcbksqg5RXXGrRXjqQ/s1600/P1060350-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyNZrhLZUiLdEwYb46BcksquERsg34C7p-tKo8DwRz2JhSxy6HfloX7YvMil8k5FUy1EuYVFuQb2aQ4j-Ym4Hxd_whhuA7wMpO89LEpBlGSrB4dA5TUr5-S9tytcbksqg5RXXGrRXjqQ/s320/P1060350-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our campsite just below 4800m, the following morning after the storm. This was to be one of our favorite cycling days in our lives.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoZQsGb8bjhWmFbAEeKfr5Wi8ZgWs0o7Q18_33lIYGD8HG1Lxb5ZW6ll3nAemyzCmJaEHzJY8hx1gdm9FUbS_ED0i-eeaXZPlGdobIAqU3XbhzNLH_MGk9rMusRbEA9FDo3s-4-RV-jA/s1600/P1060355-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoZQsGb8bjhWmFbAEeKfr5Wi8ZgWs0o7Q18_33lIYGD8HG1Lxb5ZW6ll3nAemyzCmJaEHzJY8hx1gdm9FUbS_ED0i-eeaXZPlGdobIAqU3XbhzNLH_MGk9rMusRbEA9FDo3s-4-RV-jA/s320/P1060355-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... we started by coming over the pass at 4800m near Nevado Pastoruri, and then continued along these gorgeous mountains heading towards a second pass at 4900m...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6-7O5oRuRfFCF0fU5uzO0pjYVUZqg0FfPiMFmtjstygOIlbHQmhPcoGQdoNl1TK3U6UXyLpjqONd8oE44rk82oM-c5_2aoRDRYOhDgvQJqGU6DXiizqePtGDrVRLvVQsemEOk2w4bGg/s1600/P1060359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6-7O5oRuRfFCF0fU5uzO0pjYVUZqg0FfPiMFmtjstygOIlbHQmhPcoGQdoNl1TK3U6UXyLpjqONd8oE44rk82oM-c5_2aoRDRYOhDgvQJqGU6DXiizqePtGDrVRLvVQsemEOk2w4bGg/s320/P1060359.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBLRzUE5G_xzm5RHLtCiRHhPRqgAIlFORXcswaTGoB211YqG9oXCbjmSikONKd_ezZme4wJZA8tcVQaehnVVyruHBYu-GsHS0XmQrbxSqZilpiJsuq89KaoT-QMjGDfArq5LxUyiRrA/s1600/P1060373.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBLRzUE5G_xzm5RHLtCiRHhPRqgAIlFORXcswaTGoB211YqG9oXCbjmSikONKd_ezZme4wJZA8tcVQaehnVVyruHBYu-GsHS0XmQrbxSqZilpiJsuq89KaoT-QMjGDfArq5LxUyiRrA/s320/P1060373.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxbuwLoy045BrH5vZh3IjO2KBxKC2QErjI5tzlQTlHdc3oFAm7b-V3sC_oUY_GJwhv5fuSyejqhQbw2jm_Knzj7anEcLyLFiDiztProhcG7a4w-rXNqVhJ-RcgTP_FNXrccPaa8qMxcw/s1600/P1060380.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxbuwLoy045BrH5vZh3IjO2KBxKC2QErjI5tzlQTlHdc3oFAm7b-V3sC_oUY_GJwhv5fuSyejqhQbw2jm_Knzj7anEcLyLFiDiztProhcG7a4w-rXNqVhJ-RcgTP_FNXrccPaa8qMxcw/s400/P1060380.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1MZKppgidTWwHUktlu3ig0U0ES67WxhZSk8E3TdeceO3V578IuJhNLQbKiU3DSy47SU1gMivJ7wl2ekQuXowESUNxhTk1N9ykBcGCuiCrl4UXpNelrtTmNfd0h7LTWvRvVHhZDgE5w/s1600/P1060415-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1MZKppgidTWwHUktlu3ig0U0ES67WxhZSk8E3TdeceO3V578IuJhNLQbKiU3DSy47SU1gMivJ7wl2ekQuXowESUNxhTk1N9ykBcGCuiCrl4UXpNelrtTmNfd0h7LTWvRvVHhZDgE5w/s320/P1060415-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Arnaud just beyond the second pass at 4900m (16076 feet), the highest either of us have ever been on a bicycle</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbg0NvKHkEYO8M6cLINqGCsLnyhK2ZnVMukZXZbvpwePO3KlUwXTxpfKPyZ4yKw7Tb8xjXiGruBU5bqSdJ-qwbq2POaChnCb-4hnTYAaLhDfKZzUqzPWmpJO-WCGY4QZBPh2jzU-ciMA/s1600/P1060420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbg0NvKHkEYO8M6cLINqGCsLnyhK2ZnVMukZXZbvpwePO3KlUwXTxpfKPyZ4yKw7Tb8xjXiGruBU5bqSdJ-qwbq2POaChnCb-4hnTYAaLhDfKZzUqzPWmpJO-WCGY4QZBPh2jzU-ciMA/s400/P1060420.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a view of the Cordillera Huayhuash to the south. A stretch of this road winds along a ridge that is between the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Huayhuash, truly extraordinary riding...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5gbHEff1gZjaLdrlEOvkmiyFvzSLnJNWpMy_QUwIpCF2LNAJs-w8ig_p5SX104Vv4SNvLuKVHtrpe4khMJ-rserRWD8qJBHeNz2P5YKQO4nImQOHTS7GqxhKkOy9uomdsPYtJxulaA/s1600/P1060428-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5gbHEff1gZjaLdrlEOvkmiyFvzSLnJNWpMy_QUwIpCF2LNAJs-w8ig_p5SX104Vv4SNvLuKVHtrpe4khMJ-rserRWD8qJBHeNz2P5YKQO4nImQOHTS7GqxhKkOy9uomdsPYtJxulaA/s320/P1060428-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... surreal geological features...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIl0g7B3fF-fiB6w4Q8FMNKxV7MEWtwg5851DpRuBt690qCbqYFeDzUHD5086ycZgt3u4GZMSzD5tMvbV-9az6ldSgtPUu4Mpuh9ZA7FV5t-Bu8cBH2b3N1OyTrGmY-s_jOWKUq96r3A/s1600/P1060438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIl0g7B3fF-fiB6w4Q8FMNKxV7MEWtwg5851DpRuBt690qCbqYFeDzUHD5086ycZgt3u4GZMSzD5tMvbV-9az6ldSgtPUu4Mpuh9ZA7FV5t-Bu8cBH2b3N1OyTrGmY-s_jOWKUq96r3A/s320/P1060438.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaFXdcJMVGIRoyjzzJJHJB-uRb7hC0muv6AFJpQG6uhHK3Wvopk2tVSIs3LaPGKmbLzStQR1dA4rVu_F8ZZJgj5hexcYMBraaCBNikc_sMmmnzAGBqbUatVnAevJUKMk1yFANqZhMYWw/s1600/P1060454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaFXdcJMVGIRoyjzzJJHJB-uRb7hC0muv6AFJpQG6uhHK3Wvopk2tVSIs3LaPGKmbLzStQR1dA4rVu_F8ZZJgj5hexcYMBraaCBNikc_sMmmnzAGBqbUatVnAevJUKMk1yFANqZhMYWw/s400/P1060454.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... stunning beyond words... to the extent that this route has become our FAVORITE of all time, the second time this has happened in Peru. </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECs_LtV_OCygsMS_RrE70VfjSuVR43M9G49PG2HaKaN-ydOXYmXpWc1xb59EwMU3D03YECoUZKlew1DwGpKagOqi8xHRkANvunIpU2buZX1EhlLC3NRq5H0EEDejlYq_BArBspFkcUQ/s1600/P1060468.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECs_LtV_OCygsMS_RrE70VfjSuVR43M9G49PG2HaKaN-ydOXYmXpWc1xb59EwMU3D03YECoUZKlew1DwGpKagOqi8xHRkANvunIpU2buZX1EhlLC3NRq5H0EEDejlYq_BArBspFkcUQ/s320/P1060468.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">descending now back down to earth, here we are riding with a German couple who are on the same route...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXqLC-rGPsve36xVly2T-O82fg0dekjf6xeSO31J30KSZ7826Gar9c45KXwfBrdiPL67UUpB70qzaDsqiHCVWayxH_9eGeXssirURG_5aTFhJHEyHcXdbQuNZwdNgsQYGvgN83lj2xw/s1600/P1060480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXqLC-rGPsve36xVly2T-O82fg0dekjf6xeSO31J30KSZ7826Gar9c45KXwfBrdiPL67UUpB70qzaDsqiHCVWayxH_9eGeXssirURG_5aTFhJHEyHcXdbQuNZwdNgsQYGvgN83lj2xw/s320/P1060480.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir_QuUik0Ce3oXTSxlupuEOCEMqT_CQ8sPfciESVEceUib9CqSlGtmDX1IsLRBtThp75d3Bb-1UUJukTn1G7HnQ7UWhJl3xowQtpnkqK9Q8096O8g-1IQPpfegp__K_imnoY3eNvF6tg/s1600/P1060483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir_QuUik0Ce3oXTSxlupuEOCEMqT_CQ8sPfciESVEceUib9CqSlGtmDX1IsLRBtThp75d3Bb-1UUJukTn1G7HnQ7UWhJl3xowQtpnkqK9Q8096O8g-1IQPpfegp__K_imnoY3eNvF6tg/s200/P1060483.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... these kids came to check us out at some hot springs just below La Unión</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jSDtH2CBZX9qH3o3aucIl_IgjHciuTxpFPDZNA9rZgp8C79erx-9bANFcq1cgv9_yVdYOp3Zp8BUXLnvPyXSyDArFE6yNQK2Euo-i89BpJMF5pIJui_6JbD2xb0hC-fkoMg0iJAw5A/s1600/P1060486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jSDtH2CBZX9qH3o3aucIl_IgjHciuTxpFPDZNA9rZgp8C79erx-9bANFcq1cgv9_yVdYOp3Zp8BUXLnvPyXSyDArFE6yNQK2Euo-i89BpJMF5pIJui_6JbD2xb0hC-fkoMg0iJAw5A/s200/P1060486.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMgkB0DrSwSJJnPZ7Tnn3JLSqKgd07n7rKgVJbTnklrz9h94KPA8l6M8BrWgKwyomS-ClcqWZ0Nr2eNuuvrrPyrIDVqoAXyZ6w7VhgYdgREIedmVYuo2RSQqSrciKwtkr9XL1JOhD4MQ/s1600/P1060487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMgkB0DrSwSJJnPZ7Tnn3JLSqKgd07n7rKgVJbTnklrz9h94KPA8l6M8BrWgKwyomS-ClcqWZ0Nr2eNuuvrrPyrIDVqoAXyZ6w7VhgYdgREIedmVYuo2RSQqSrciKwtkr9XL1JOhD4MQ/s320/P1060487.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEQZ1FWk4Qbdy0RaLrkZv0x0QpmJwyrYRqYLsb3A_gXFhHmyaYpYVblUat93mlzxuOd8QKZCv96jxABImFW406PX49JzFWqElfqd2GJ-6uZS2ehst6eXDGyb7_7WCMFSN95DsNWihPjQ/s1600/P1060496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEQZ1FWk4Qbdy0RaLrkZv0x0QpmJwyrYRqYLsb3A_gXFhHmyaYpYVblUat93mlzxuOd8QKZCv96jxABImFW406PX49JzFWqElfqd2GJ-6uZS2ehst6eXDGyb7_7WCMFSN95DsNWihPjQ/s400/P1060496.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the scene heading towards El Tingo</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLKOLk9nTLybtkW7eWTo-V378OtSA8rWwu7mwmFU1-GXXjCVXhji8jVS7tQjaH-aO1PhOaH-G5DQlpQlIaqIlrAVhaEN_e03QiogRVNvHxT9zXGQmqdBQ0lbUgHIbEW2Uf5yjymtV6LA/s1600/P1060505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLKOLk9nTLybtkW7eWTo-V378OtSA8rWwu7mwmFU1-GXXjCVXhji8jVS7tQjaH-aO1PhOaH-G5DQlpQlIaqIlrAVhaEN_e03QiogRVNvHxT9zXGQmqdBQ0lbUgHIbEW2Uf5yjymtV6LA/s320/P1060505.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a view towards the east face of the Cordillera Huayhuash</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiN2L_Z6bf_vewyVj6xFPZVp4cJbf9Y_bueLJBzb96cwSiV06KptfjV0XwZxusZOcz627x3rf9ai8nAu3t7qOJZPD7bOx0HoiZyYcVRgTbq6cqf_PDtVNco7IVUeT2S7Kc6bPuEKjc1A/s1600/P1060512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiN2L_Z6bf_vewyVj6xFPZVp4cJbf9Y_bueLJBzb96cwSiV06KptfjV0XwZxusZOcz627x3rf9ai8nAu3t7qOJZPD7bOx0HoiZyYcVRgTbq6cqf_PDtVNco7IVUeT2S7Kc6bPuEKjc1A/s200/P1060512.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in Llicllatambo</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrw9ecw06CeX45A0FTfRKlnPGqpDOc846jfasQykD9hoWxl_Uark5frh-lVRpIa9laScSGfWo9PVp-Hd2-Kq-IVWPHCcYNiE_Ds_gJ6OEktUCmDhgcUA-k7Aaerh7TVQjQ0zUk3zh98Q/s1600/P1060521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrw9ecw06CeX45A0FTfRKlnPGqpDOc846jfasQykD9hoWxl_Uark5frh-lVRpIa9laScSGfWo9PVp-Hd2-Kq-IVWPHCcYNiE_Ds_gJ6OEktUCmDhgcUA-k7Aaerh7TVQjQ0zUk3zh98Q/s320/P1060521.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... a big climb out of Llicllatambo brought us to Punta Unión (4010m) and this descent...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiREB-7UZP5jDbjis9ZcS0QD2dPSYeD5KRpKyy_unAoeP5muARBUHfnmT76Jta5njUt2lpYbgpGFEljRpXeBnwwtp2G8eHfmWQydUb8kqTUJBhvgC-oWEtOPbXd49x0NnlaDfduFAqaAQ/s1600/P1060528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiREB-7UZP5jDbjis9ZcS0QD2dPSYeD5KRpKyy_unAoeP5muARBUHfnmT76Jta5njUt2lpYbgpGFEljRpXeBnwwtp2G8eHfmWQydUb8kqTUJBhvgC-oWEtOPbXd49x0NnlaDfduFAqaAQ/s320/P1060528.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD9o81zNlTfzQ-Aynhc-Ww3lpB3nZQm6xb1NBjvjNxiLv2Q6GiYPfH2kyTxXfC1AvPl2ckC2he18MX-hejrPs-L351BoxKWQnq1UEtoK2MG3lucKUPutCzsMSmuNuikKRZP_uJ14dRPw/s1600/P1060543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD9o81zNlTfzQ-Aynhc-Ww3lpB3nZQm6xb1NBjvjNxiLv2Q6GiYPfH2kyTxXfC1AvPl2ckC2he18MX-hejrPs-L351BoxKWQnq1UEtoK2MG3lucKUPutCzsMSmuNuikKRZP_uJ14dRPw/s200/P1060543.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpPJmfiOC2_8ziZv3Wai24Iv8gIm3xVVAW-J5rp-tg10PAHJSBIuvAOV7yIleQbFxYqLlfYsXGqtnZ8Auy6Fck1135ydOcpZ3csfXxNiMzFX1z7SPrND2ISLGM3CZxsCuyw6-XjcJiEA/s1600/P1060547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpPJmfiOC2_8ziZv3Wai24Iv8gIm3xVVAW-J5rp-tg10PAHJSBIuvAOV7yIleQbFxYqLlfYsXGqtnZ8Auy6Fck1135ydOcpZ3csfXxNiMzFX1z7SPrND2ISLGM3CZxsCuyw6-XjcJiEA/s200/P1060547.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in Huancapallac we stayed the night in the civic ballroom</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJH7ikbeFeZQXnJ2LMAzSYhsno8ofzIK1XTqxlZ3Y6PqIEQI7oKmyH0DQFusPRyAEbpkmpzaq5ce2x3tL0tPuTRimCJGiITH9A80VQurzKrhZiZEv6QpOu23yduLazoFwz-jIejXGxZg/s1600/P1060557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJH7ikbeFeZQXnJ2LMAzSYhsno8ofzIK1XTqxlZ3Y6PqIEQI7oKmyH0DQFusPRyAEbpkmpzaq5ce2x3tL0tPuTRimCJGiITH9A80VQurzKrhZiZEv6QpOu23yduLazoFwz-jIejXGxZg/s320/P1060557.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">out of Huánuco (2000m), we climbed and climbed (over 90km) up to Cerro de Pasco cutoff, at 4300 meters. It was cold here.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjImzNutGkYcIo43K_Tr09_pGpeo4dWIWgObrQP0ViA9A5l1Yg6ycY1OpTnjJg0JTevHFQaTYsPxRpPAFDqf0zk27YBy3lYfb5_TcFpBhfMOFaiwza8HIcYXiCh6q9FdESYGopt8qIZMA/s1600/P1060561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjImzNutGkYcIo43K_Tr09_pGpeo4dWIWgObrQP0ViA9A5l1Yg6ycY1OpTnjJg0JTevHFQaTYsPxRpPAFDqf0zk27YBy3lYfb5_TcFpBhfMOFaiwza8HIcYXiCh6q9FdESYGopt8qIZMA/s320/P1060561.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is a huge herd of llamas found near the Cerro de Pasco cutoff, just off the highway</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv5H-b8_od3N8wBrDlGbuZHrkynyy0zwfBJcpBDBk3YzJB_h7DtcwVnRlbfVT5G7hVU834Xnymh7fFERMy5FwbIQgGJylJxKVR-iGwoUU6ufQ8501LJ4cJhpREEex2BllhguvnljYCdw/s1600/P1060569-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv5H-b8_od3N8wBrDlGbuZHrkynyy0zwfBJcpBDBk3YzJB_h7DtcwVnRlbfVT5G7hVU834Xnymh7fFERMy5FwbIQgGJylJxKVR-iGwoUU6ufQ8501LJ4cJhpREEex2BllhguvnljYCdw/s320/P1060569-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Colquijirca where we had lunch. this was a surreal mining town</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq6O1WqfFIaVwi4e3BsREd4A-6VfYgMNExWwEfWzWeYZrITNmjwiG7VVZfEhQrGoIypK7lPucLOJqhDSdCzLWl5ZJFbmCtDjgzigyl7ew3Un2hzXQfPoOX8rkgrYt9j35cFAhpSaP7AA/s1600/P1060570.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq6O1WqfFIaVwi4e3BsREd4A-6VfYgMNExWwEfWzWeYZrITNmjwiG7VVZfEhQrGoIypK7lPucLOJqhDSdCzLWl5ZJFbmCtDjgzigyl7ew3Un2hzXQfPoOX8rkgrYt9j35cFAhpSaP7AA/s200/P1060570.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">with a surreal new-age plaza</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOE6apTzkzo78WMLsHW_McUYpluiGFAtH6XnY9XGr8T7gnLaRq-bTD-PUIvdQ9UhklgXoCuyk0d8gYuWsAbkKgkJmb-K5Mp6xkJ4lBNZxrlQI2FKaPmBl-i2e_-ka4pEK78tNSmbkJPg/s1600/P1060577.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOE6apTzkzo78WMLsHW_McUYpluiGFAtH6XnY9XGr8T7gnLaRq-bTD-PUIvdQ9UhklgXoCuyk0d8gYuWsAbkKgkJmb-K5Mp6xkJ4lBNZxrlQI2FKaPmBl-i2e_-ka4pEK78tNSmbkJPg/s320/P1060577.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">up on the high basin between Cerro de Pasco and Junín... this was truly cold riding.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEtpTOOZzqbV6KVV8ZBpEueIdK_913SaxrYQhWj9-icrzzODfP_hcVgnq_jHED3fJoSmZlsfKeKfqMDKG-MGF0kXOR_gSD4o-qBLa2s4YOv1YbadSbqJTT29u848dsumMAw8PaaZ9YXQ/s1600/P1060579-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEtpTOOZzqbV6KVV8ZBpEueIdK_913SaxrYQhWj9-icrzzODfP_hcVgnq_jHED3fJoSmZlsfKeKfqMDKG-MGF0kXOR_gSD4o-qBLa2s4YOv1YbadSbqJTT29u848dsumMAw8PaaZ9YXQ/s320/P1060579-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">especially when the storm hit: cold, windy, rainy, a headwind blowing slicing rain into our eyes, no shelter anywhere. Here we are beginning a 55km dirt detour into Junín (passing through Vicco and Ondores).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz9piVbYEFde4RL0UXsEAGg127OmJVvRzmLtfEL4V-gBWdDist3VnsWe-z1-Vo2fHOzYsIW-WwhKvC01786SfdcxAVB7sOqR9sSmiRNi7mX8VGlr5dIg_ouMvOOaoMXgpudCbjJaAHsQ/s1600/P1060581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz9piVbYEFde4RL0UXsEAGg127OmJVvRzmLtfEL4V-gBWdDist3VnsWe-z1-Vo2fHOzYsIW-WwhKvC01786SfdcxAVB7sOqR9sSmiRNi7mX8VGlr5dIg_ouMvOOaoMXgpudCbjJaAHsQ/s320/P1060581.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this was a beautiful stretch of dirt </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9cHWv6bpEH0LNr3uGE2idU2wYoShwbtYUa0uaq1sYNYtwJK0Ee7S5dXJV0bQ08BTDK77l8VOMXPXeECLqatPblkKnH7LnHPgqz2_5L4yBDRiTYN7LvBoxvCqrNNMDYiv3lk9U0bpuNQ/s1600/P1060594.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9cHWv6bpEH0LNr3uGE2idU2wYoShwbtYUa0uaq1sYNYtwJK0Ee7S5dXJV0bQ08BTDK77l8VOMXPXeECLqatPblkKnH7LnHPgqz2_5L4yBDRiTYN7LvBoxvCqrNNMDYiv3lk9U0bpuNQ/s320/P1060594.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a late afternoon run-in with a herd of alpaca!...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3lhmOhLpPB5WgyZHj-Rk-zAP0bG3STIGTQh2SYdR8yDceXrMJImtho3fW_6QkUocxu4vR8mxmho719shQz35C6Y4cqGWivUI8u7tVQFVZOqpHO3dUX4gMiTrvfD8kobADjzqdXpT6fA/s1600/P1060596-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3lhmOhLpPB5WgyZHj-Rk-zAP0bG3STIGTQh2SYdR8yDceXrMJImtho3fW_6QkUocxu4vR8mxmho719shQz35C6Y4cqGWivUI8u7tVQFVZOqpHO3dUX4gMiTrvfD8kobADjzqdXpT6fA/s320/P1060596-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvFRnCb1cS6eiAGa5WK6YcXJjMmiKvgZLgTcgKkZfUs1GOc6t-2vyK5An3Yf0nxk7EOc0f2q_xByt_r11JYROQ-bwzq1n-5oLxNqIpwiMXkNOejFnm7mSz4M-Jdf0npe7JxFUAUE9Fw/s1600/P1060600-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvFRnCb1cS6eiAGa5WK6YcXJjMmiKvgZLgTcgKkZfUs1GOc6t-2vyK5An3Yf0nxk7EOc0f2q_xByt_r11JYROQ-bwzq1n-5oLxNqIpwiMXkNOejFnm7mSz4M-Jdf0npe7JxFUAUE9Fw/s400/P1060600-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a blissful sight for any dirt-road tourist</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4b5fH32j0MtVXnu9_1LKoiiS3JBpD7-t9sP9Kzb3xgtuTWA2lSzTrCmgGTtPWMzYk8hTY2CNdu1QJ4-Z1_E5ozl0LFlVqRIJB-AiYSVrMrmHTuKcbEn-o4jA5dTt1tBqcPugL4N5ACg/s1600/P1060605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4b5fH32j0MtVXnu9_1LKoiiS3JBpD7-t9sP9Kzb3xgtuTWA2lSzTrCmgGTtPWMzYk8hTY2CNdu1QJ4-Z1_E5ozl0LFlVqRIJB-AiYSVrMrmHTuKcbEn-o4jA5dTt1tBqcPugL4N5ACg/s200/P1060605.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... we were hosted in Ondores by a friendly family who gave us a room and looked after us properly after a freezing day...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-W8EB4oJ0qYCB2UEs9BrptCKrFD00fDgow-ewcQ-IQ5NOZApFdx1CE53CgnQOf3Kf_BAGESKEFF6XSPUIP2BVa6C1GoP_rtKHslJNAP4F8S4rmUyC3z1wuRKnjynT7J-ntPemUpQRmA/s1600/P1060609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-W8EB4oJ0qYCB2UEs9BrptCKrFD00fDgow-ewcQ-IQ5NOZApFdx1CE53CgnQOf3Kf_BAGESKEFF6XSPUIP2BVa6C1GoP_rtKHslJNAP4F8S4rmUyC3z1wuRKnjynT7J-ntPemUpQRmA/s200/P1060609.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftfq48ow589Ez3TKrPRT5uSSjTs5uWO7Chv6QTGqc4G5jN0P7vFM8fuIHbumly6f3UoROUoGgb8niTSp5zAVZQMKnwYvJ0VTzwF8PWXPgMvQXRQYjtVRgbPEvtv1wzVFCk-QQZoh2kQ/s1600/P1060610-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftfq48ow589Ez3TKrPRT5uSSjTs5uWO7Chv6QTGqc4G5jN0P7vFM8fuIHbumly6f3UoROUoGgb8niTSp5zAVZQMKnwYvJ0VTzwF8PWXPgMvQXRQYjtVRgbPEvtv1wzVFCk-QQZoh2kQ/s320/P1060610-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">contouring around Lake Junín the following morning. Second-biggest lake in Peru after Titicaca.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuEdCqJBQB7gw6OI4U3_ZrS5dqaaraI1N2zJYRL2BxIggA_L7SwU5d3Guce1OhE93rQnmLrkjMM6UXIwXG3UGCS4OnEnj57r6cOEb2rMs_ynCffUyStgXnN_VGsOKgDUyBw-Gp8fSk_A/s1600/P1060613-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuEdCqJBQB7gw6OI4U3_ZrS5dqaaraI1N2zJYRL2BxIggA_L7SwU5d3Guce1OhE93rQnmLrkjMM6UXIwXG3UGCS4OnEnj57r6cOEb2rMs_ynCffUyStgXnN_VGsOKgDUyBw-Gp8fSk_A/s320/P1060613-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">flamingoes spotted here. Other than in Cuba we haven't seen them on this trip</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhednS6d498K0rOBrHoKTZkzrfURbOw5dfh0kvqAIDZjJtW_34A-U2hJkxzaZg5iVtRw0ZJN9Bq3aB69794Dj2TLmiHhxHLvFZnKjcfVka9CHq6ULu3WyQehfxCitysdMx9AE55MLfGGg/s1600/P1060616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhednS6d498K0rOBrHoKTZkzrfURbOw5dfh0kvqAIDZjJtW_34A-U2hJkxzaZg5iVtRw0ZJN9Bq3aB69794Dj2TLmiHhxHLvFZnKjcfVka9CHq6ULu3WyQehfxCitysdMx9AE55MLfGGg/s320/P1060616.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibHVrhYfWFiACX6qcXpk8XrZZ2pjCDAjSecJmMq7DwV8WMqVQPQWycOrY4lUhbEVEyuyn0xkKpk4ARGsPeCQSMXX2RCLLm8fWWJw7pQJSZsuv22uwEMgD44ygAFvfTcTocbrRAWvIk5A/s1600/P1060622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibHVrhYfWFiACX6qcXpk8XrZZ2pjCDAjSecJmMq7DwV8WMqVQPQWycOrY4lUhbEVEyuyn0xkKpk4ARGsPeCQSMXX2RCLLm8fWWJw7pQJSZsuv22uwEMgD44ygAFvfTcTocbrRAWvIk5A/s200/P1060622.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Sunday morning religious parade in Junín</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVjHwER0N_Mdao5C5vA6Engz-ue0XTvgiiYO5PYe890XK62_KI-DPynkk0oxvnHRGwimwyo_jcCZZBOkB__3PXpieCwBlmYU9Rdxo0gPWexjH85gTRJAXwLELHEjgTKoMqDOnQZF6Qsg/s1600/P1060627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVjHwER0N_Mdao5C5vA6Engz-ue0XTvgiiYO5PYe890XK62_KI-DPynkk0oxvnHRGwimwyo_jcCZZBOkB__3PXpieCwBlmYU9Rdxo0gPWexjH85gTRJAXwLELHEjgTKoMqDOnQZF6Qsg/s200/P1060627.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... the bizarre mining town of La Oroya...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUQV8MyN_6SuNL7I2_H793Y-JFG8TauAHZhih5lbxJTgm4hVwAzyLcivH59wIOy45Tw_X0yoU3fDqh5AzXGNmYvpLv3LnktJJ9wMrbFOaZK7PKKrR5DyzbX_NDRAHcDyNIaW4_hkebg/s320/P1060630-2.jpg" width="320" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... dry mined-over landscapes here</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu9QgV2fnJ8As2F9IhhjhgeM3EYr-5BJfSeWSwPtcuEZraW_Dva50kiE6vn8_5LDPe1T09_Rnv7s0qLxD987EJ5Tl-iPCGvblGhcwiZbVR5ccbsZyXSqA3kVC7Snd-Vmrqs-Bvcfzmhw/s1600/P1060639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu9QgV2fnJ8As2F9IhhjhgeM3EYr-5BJfSeWSwPtcuEZraW_Dva50kiE6vn8_5LDPe1T09_Rnv7s0qLxD987EJ5Tl-iPCGvblGhcwiZbVR5ccbsZyXSqA3kVC7Snd-Vmrqs-Bvcfzmhw/s200/P1060639.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff was selected to pose with this baby near San Francisco, heading towards Huancayo now</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnynJ37LjvP01UWaHxCDLsvDs5myp1C2ejxTZE4Z6AR7bJw32vFnUKBXMvq1LsTrk_p3jvELY7EjMOXhSJBFPFlzeUnb4CZAcMmUHzoqPpSIyOI86BPtIRmphUvFgPDJs9147lv0lr-A/s1600/P1060647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnynJ37LjvP01UWaHxCDLsvDs5myp1C2ejxTZE4Z6AR7bJw32vFnUKBXMvq1LsTrk_p3jvELY7EjMOXhSJBFPFlzeUnb4CZAcMmUHzoqPpSIyOI86BPtIRmphUvFgPDJs9147lv0lr-A/s320/P1060647.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">climbing out of Huancayo</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx4S-xbNmm_mBiWbj9V-PPnTljY6SfbL35yTGDtVcG1MAZshyphenhyphenjLNTx_cc6XSfPKJ-Nz_MnjbAaoFqr8lEK5koEMbvCiNOJeALyYdra-voBWgKXljrvdseXuRioa0B_m38TusOF22OtSA/s1600/P1060650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx4S-xbNmm_mBiWbj9V-PPnTljY6SfbL35yTGDtVcG1MAZshyphenhyphenjLNTx_cc6XSfPKJ-Nz_MnjbAaoFqr8lEK5koEMbvCiNOJeALyYdra-voBWgKXljrvdseXuRioa0B_m38TusOF22OtSA/s200/P1060650.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff bit by an aggressive bastard dog after being chased by a small pack on this climb. Not to worry, no rabies contracted, and Jeff made sure this dog suffered by pegging him with a big rock in the head as hard as he could throw. In fact, this incident led to a small change in philosophy, one from kicking an aggressive dog in the face with cycling shoes whenever possible to that of dropping the bike, grabbing the nearest adequate rock, and aiming to hurt the bastard as much as possible. </div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBJBXFzucFOwcdDYJmBM9l4aaAvsnyVIskPNsavQ307kpToF1uYoqh0jGktWikEuHS5C_rYgkuGeQsDwqX6VZ3WS1WeftBx7EKcBnpMQT2uk_J_O3JI63ouzfvcyUXg_oq_0lJAmWu7Q/s1600/P1060652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBJBXFzucFOwcdDYJmBM9l4aaAvsnyVIskPNsavQ307kpToF1uYoqh0jGktWikEuHS5C_rYgkuGeQsDwqX6VZ3WS1WeftBx7EKcBnpMQT2uk_J_O3JI63ouzfvcyUXg_oq_0lJAmWu7Q/s320/P1060652.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... agricultural scenes near the top of this pass...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpn01JQJh1yHS7Tg2kU10fVajJESoObUnLcAu9I9BcDopmIdDCVXuOL7TukRdmvEBpYGdQFI3hBhqhX14URokwbRW7yHik7zEAvenfatdUmohSylarTr4fCW99z4rwxlyKYezTdgxfFg/s1600/P1060657-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpn01JQJh1yHS7Tg2kU10fVajJESoObUnLcAu9I9BcDopmIdDCVXuOL7TukRdmvEBpYGdQFI3hBhqhX14URokwbRW7yHik7zEAvenfatdUmohSylarTr4fCW99z4rwxlyKYezTdgxfFg/s320/P1060657-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgJUSXNXkPzlxRqt9HektXaJuXJC7K4zOmOG37oXLDwT-cykXSh0t2XW7EdzRfHZvttscfVSxnlQjso33Hg_XAx24N4b2wsfAvcaHJl6JsbCVH1toWwj0PM8wR7cdetWTsW642aF1rw/s1600/P1060662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgJUSXNXkPzlxRqt9HektXaJuXJC7K4zOmOG37oXLDwT-cykXSh0t2XW7EdzRfHZvttscfVSxnlQjso33Hg_XAx24N4b2wsfAvcaHJl6JsbCVH1toWwj0PM8wR7cdetWTsW642aF1rw/s400/P1060662.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">now, descending, first on pavement for a LLLONNG time...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkhzQYe1si5Brxq-9JRVjjEX_0Qf047ANNxohuXeRjvJOT9mlk2vp_H1q9IAjSf51wdr7fhIM3MQp3QqfpYXv-DHeUthbiOVef9tozGiO-JVu2q24MeRVkfI0HdXVL3ut3B5Qvid0qyA/s1600/P1060670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkhzQYe1si5Brxq-9JRVjjEX_0Qf047ANNxohuXeRjvJOT9mlk2vp_H1q9IAjSf51wdr7fhIM3MQp3QqfpYXv-DHeUthbiOVef9tozGiO-JVu2q24MeRVkfI0HdXVL3ut3B5Qvid0qyA/s320/P1060670.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-x1wmm4qWEOwwGr4s5lcntJ-jeAcE0magqP0slqIiI8-Gi7jphSE77Cf4xsCd-3t4nJvrMawtpkFh4HPJ7Li8X5siioI1nUfuBeiNvF5OohTzdZ5EFXjmlDlTbUfIJbOeLJ35cGbvyw/s1600/P1060689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-x1wmm4qWEOwwGr4s5lcntJ-jeAcE0magqP0slqIiI8-Gi7jphSE77Cf4xsCd-3t4nJvrMawtpkFh4HPJ7Li8X5siioI1nUfuBeiNvF5OohTzdZ5EFXjmlDlTbUfIJbOeLJ35cGbvyw/s200/P1060689.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... the town of Izcuchaca where the friendly Padre put us up for the night...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv1wMk9Npc3h6d6zPGHfOg8dO3Ze0cTIbNgydQXP3_ZSpdeXmXyeezmCKFN8cCeF8Z-4Eaec5emhKqSxDKoza6CRgdSc7YQ4wvZbOA-HP8qIV9DTrb_naBnF-V3TwcWkN9kSqJQPHuYA/s1600/P1060693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv1wMk9Npc3h6d6zPGHfOg8dO3Ze0cTIbNgydQXP3_ZSpdeXmXyeezmCKFN8cCeF8Z-4Eaec5emhKqSxDKoza6CRgdSc7YQ4wvZbOA-HP8qIV9DTrb_naBnF-V3TwcWkN9kSqJQPHuYA/s320/P1060693.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF8K8UFGfjHfrOE4Xo3_y5-iNIvsnZ2ryYKs4bEyPK6nny66Wbnt-174TmIsxtuUBa0Qx50EegxgxZGPv0ATil-L6f1MFjsrdIn_VZC0Eq4nPaQyeTjzXdsLM7rVkT5UH5fYIAnl3H5g/s1600/P1060699.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF8K8UFGfjHfrOE4Xo3_y5-iNIvsnZ2ryYKs4bEyPK6nny66Wbnt-174TmIsxtuUBa0Qx50EegxgxZGPv0ATil-L6f1MFjsrdIn_VZC0Eq4nPaQyeTjzXdsLM7rVkT5UH5fYIAnl3H5g/s320/P1060699.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... the road turned to dirt just after Izcuchaca...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTX7trb253l3y1YldicnmCv5Sp8dQVHbINZjZnZjjKWmv0QGze_3obHN3MXWVRekeuljQ3cswX0c8kefOUkF8-P3Ipfj6g6hMZ-1snedcnA6oN36E_CQvLRWFo-K8rkluJwiKKZKjvg/s1600/P1060710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXTX7trb253l3y1YldicnmCv5Sp8dQVHbINZjZnZjjKWmv0QGze_3obHN3MXWVRekeuljQ3cswX0c8kefOUkF8-P3Ipfj6g6hMZ-1snedcnA6oN36E_CQvLRWFo-K8rkluJwiKKZKjvg/s320/P1060710.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUvhMd0ZfKYuFt8s-nVRmS1Xq3-iSwq5fCOnoxyXFjCVlXv1gBkRsLaSvOczxLsoe2akL8DM3QI1-Yh0bjCe1zOwENhALEGP2xmM2sxDyfFfiEYB7gZl9rEa3SXZE2Kea8aAoxrk2Ag/s1600/P1060711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUvhMd0ZfKYuFt8s-nVRmS1Xq3-iSwq5fCOnoxyXFjCVlXv1gBkRsLaSvOczxLsoe2akL8DM3QI1-Yh0bjCe1zOwENhALEGP2xmM2sxDyfFfiEYB7gZl9rEa3SXZE2Kea8aAoxrk2Ag/s320/P1060711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we followed the Mantaro River down forever it seemed... note the water color here (a bit silty)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmizS-PG9KG8MjhJB869ZM-Fe-cvlCmQ_RHxHrRD0euIIAwTwW4-2fcgQ4rJT8rJXRrXtruzK1Swxp-cS2qNQYSAg9jCXUbRF0zfTAPKx5pBYW4WHCbPjw8z43il5mSBpnoDtVTQ5FA/s1600/P1060717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmizS-PG9KG8MjhJB869ZM-Fe-cvlCmQ_RHxHrRD0euIIAwTwW4-2fcgQ4rJT8rJXRrXtruzK1Swxp-cS2qNQYSAg9jCXUbRF0zfTAPKx5pBYW4WHCbPjw8z43il5mSBpnoDtVTQ5FA/s320/P1060717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the huge Tablachaca Dam on the Mantaro River</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbnDrOm6oS1dmlfGrObzggO2L7EPqgdvm6AJA6GdqNEy3PG4_KBDst5wY5_6jvIINzle8P0pBDGp1hlajhBIUyt69LC2ngFR7GZe4JxSXCCLIk8DTa4Ei02QJ2Ebg2FpdvshgX4G0Xg/s1600/P1060724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbnDrOm6oS1dmlfGrObzggO2L7EPqgdvm6AJA6GdqNEy3PG4_KBDst5wY5_6jvIINzle8P0pBDGp1hlajhBIUyt69LC2ngFR7GZe4JxSXCCLIk8DTa4Ei02QJ2Ebg2FpdvshgX4G0Xg/s320/P1060724.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">now emerald water color</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgTtp7Ro7tCWxoqOxMn9GyrR6r6_QiB2BsRQUbs74z3-nBMZOTjJ-afpOoqiS4B1Ku0gQluKCsaRb7UFQlecnKuMQHlHK3whR-8PGZlKkCCIC17LsQPkc6eWhFOPkZhfLCX0suAbEUfA/s1600/P1060728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgTtp7Ro7tCWxoqOxMn9GyrR6r6_QiB2BsRQUbs74z3-nBMZOTjJ-afpOoqiS4B1Ku0gQluKCsaRb7UFQlecnKuMQHlHK3whR-8PGZlKkCCIC17LsQPkc6eWhFOPkZhfLCX0suAbEUfA/s320/P1060728.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ZN5jbkUtR7Zmp2-NLk8TTeyrCtl3ZDlnSOr58eVtM1e94Gy9I32tEZauSGOxKjPd2jngupgJNxJkc4ZAMt15enDjbwqVLkIZp0GLYZwtygAl3l09Cv_pbgSZQtHUM9rhYHSae7tSPA/s1600/P1060745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ZN5jbkUtR7Zmp2-NLk8TTeyrCtl3ZDlnSOr58eVtM1e94Gy9I32tEZauSGOxKjPd2jngupgJNxJkc4ZAMt15enDjbwqVLkIZp0GLYZwtygAl3l09Cv_pbgSZQtHUM9rhYHSae7tSPA/s320/P1060745.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">these trucks brave narrow lanes, knife-edge ledges, landslides, no guardrails, and mudholes to navigate this road</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXokFLGvVgohf3tVT3To-wo4Lbi3RqKk3CVMw-3_irLh5HK9ltXXkXneOZhBZyc0GbYxwgHwSutzS4cG23B31rDHbz2Go7mI0kzTEhO6YVCK_ee8JxxW2QTDk1RkpcVYTYs9i5971G5w/s1600/P1060756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXokFLGvVgohf3tVT3To-wo4Lbi3RqKk3CVMw-3_irLh5HK9ltXXkXneOZhBZyc0GbYxwgHwSutzS4cG23B31rDHbz2Go7mI0kzTEhO6YVCK_ee8JxxW2QTDk1RkpcVYTYs9i5971G5w/s320/P1060756.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our campsite just before Anco</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBEtg-xD-Ri-W3O5NnF2HsBiomNa2rgHoxvypTo8Q0PLMZruYYJUKfzbXJl9_2luQLwPMFrYpjOrCt_1Mbh5cGHUG_EVtARmO3sZz2zp7j1oBECqhoI6Bs_fDXpumNw6yJPz2VP7f38A/s1600/P1060758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBEtg-xD-Ri-W3O5NnF2HsBiomNa2rgHoxvypTo8Q0PLMZruYYJUKfzbXJl9_2luQLwPMFrYpjOrCt_1Mbh5cGHUG_EVtARmO3sZz2zp7j1oBECqhoI6Bs_fDXpumNw6yJPz2VP7f38A/s400/P1060758.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... this fantastic ride continued the following morning...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSR3dB8j4wmxperpvEGvnhJoV7gU9qKhPRihBFG5i2HifCXkW49n-K-ugLaTGoPfOqmlTJWTtsIexiIjFR9qH9HaO2wvy6RqiRzGfd_tsHdFNW3bhDXVXr6FzI6AGzuZRPwlZPRV5_xg/s1600/P1060760-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSR3dB8j4wmxperpvEGvnhJoV7gU9qKhPRihBFG5i2HifCXkW49n-K-ugLaTGoPfOqmlTJWTtsIexiIjFR9qH9HaO2wvy6RqiRzGfd_tsHdFNW3bhDXVXr6FzI6AGzuZRPwlZPRV5_xg/s320/P1060760-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt4kXHkG1d5jQu-2t-oIHdPBZc8OvKIfzn01wT0oMA9Vsk2zXzT8jeUQk0js0n_m3FOCki5tvuYCijoQFukn5mip-1TpoZCZv95rAFFLRSO4NDrsTKZ-9fVe3JuGIiky6J2yAt-wmIJQ/s1600/P1060768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt4kXHkG1d5jQu-2t-oIHdPBZc8OvKIfzn01wT0oMA9Vsk2zXzT8jeUQk0js0n_m3FOCki5tvuYCijoQFukn5mip-1TpoZCZv95rAFFLRSO4NDrsTKZ-9fVe3JuGIiky6J2yAt-wmIJQ/s400/P1060768.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">but now the river is red???</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4oOh7DiI_OrtzVwCGHosOMMLnvtaSax4vjkBCZgdZIgBBH0x9epDCzQcTp3EcH0Hy9uBPYfxjAxZyDYQoF0cp7XiTGyG5v3OUUdt6iaPRU5ym1T4bcjYz2xKhEeHtPfmhnxiX18nNZA/s1600/P1060774.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4oOh7DiI_OrtzVwCGHosOMMLnvtaSax4vjkBCZgdZIgBBH0x9epDCzQcTp3EcH0Hy9uBPYfxjAxZyDYQoF0cp7XiTGyG5v3OUUdt6iaPRU5ym1T4bcjYz2xKhEeHtPfmhnxiX18nNZA/s320/P1060774.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXch2LPQWFYV1cK4UsVeU9t70p1tWxiDXZMatUni62SMFdV2xiQT6xj8kyJ-bQJM6f7Bvt3yNgPtQdygAhoo5vpGPdsy7iHT8ps04RJf2ZFrrkicp78stM1O5HUOsUweG5qZNrfLjV6g/s1600/P1060779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXch2LPQWFYV1cK4UsVeU9t70p1tWxiDXZMatUni62SMFdV2xiQT6xj8kyJ-bQJM6f7Bvt3yNgPtQdygAhoo5vpGPdsy7iHT8ps04RJf2ZFrrkicp78stM1O5HUOsUweG5qZNrfLjV6g/s320/P1060779.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we had some good muddy fun here in a few places. This road, the Mantaro River Road, has become another favorite ride of the whole trip, and the second on this segment alone.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Lec2yBARryioAIBZeumDd4RtMVmqmsDUIbWPUILsjFcAxGCA6tc1Chnehbe_2ELX5AwdZN_zB-d9J213pPmo02m3m9lRy1E2LjlbFQtjno9bJANExqYR0qZ1ebOKXI-Vt6M1noDdtg/s1600/P1060787.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Lec2yBARryioAIBZeumDd4RtMVmqmsDUIbWPUILsjFcAxGCA6tc1Chnehbe_2ELX5AwdZN_zB-d9J213pPmo02m3m9lRy1E2LjlbFQtjno9bJANExqYR0qZ1ebOKXI-Vt6M1noDdtg/s200/P1060787.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Arnaud didn't escape without incident... this is his broken crank, which happened just before Málloc</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtOr8UNmKxlT5BXcwjlylt9Xn3ionn6Cm86hcALfNRMCOekmquV49mX7hkTc64zw1JgiotcwZb8T3GNzdEmIPNbmPi9sMiH6995RqjQK7J766ilhFdr1VTE425L824uQh2O6HQiwsSmA/s1600/P1060790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtOr8UNmKxlT5BXcwjlylt9Xn3ionn6Cm86hcALfNRMCOekmquV49mX7hkTc64zw1JgiotcwZb8T3GNzdEmIPNbmPi9sMiH6995RqjQK7J766ilhFdr1VTE425L824uQh2O6HQiwsSmA/s200/P1060790.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... in Málloc we witnessed the festival of the virgen of Málloc...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSu6nQ5pt8mVVEbMOrWiZwOCDlaUUHQs8_zMdAV2OGeQT_LpV7ptDsnfmaHYXtbSCEDiVAflt9ouj_aQJ5M2gkJF0DTHKsNfQG_eEGucSz7MlPWxZnOOzugT1SWwUWybefjdQWV-Z0g/s1600/P1060791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSu6nQ5pt8mVVEbMOrWiZwOCDlaUUHQs8_zMdAV2OGeQT_LpV7ptDsnfmaHYXtbSCEDiVAflt9ouj_aQJ5M2gkJF0DTHKsNfQG_eEGucSz7MlPWxZnOOzugT1SWwUWybefjdQWV-Z0g/s320/P1060791.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAHD35dOkCjZOQ6JbslocHstQzdUFRsn0pehxRxbgHkAixsdIP9MhC166-iB6klF262ZZdQBzaYc6V5KapLViyhtSpKGsXevaxXqLu3Fr-sl4uz1DqNI9L3qipUQiZlCIwXUecCZxiVw/s1600/P1060795.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAHD35dOkCjZOQ6JbslocHstQzdUFRsn0pehxRxbgHkAixsdIP9MhC166-iB6klF262ZZdQBzaYc6V5KapLViyhtSpKGsXevaxXqLu3Fr-sl4uz1DqNI9L3qipUQiZlCIwXUecCZxiVw/s400/P1060795.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">great bottom-land scenery outside Málloc (river now mostly clear)</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7byFI8QoFufoa-XRxaXyOSeQgKOd-Y7PPsKYM9mwvpepWzt1Wqm2AyEgTaFOS2jmx7Zhy-eIcz7YwpLB6vTGojxQQkEKFFVDzKa25imjpkm9OGbu9VbvO2nfzrwYUpy2PrfUACkT26g/s1600/P1060810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7byFI8QoFufoa-XRxaXyOSeQgKOd-Y7PPsKYM9mwvpepWzt1Wqm2AyEgTaFOS2jmx7Zhy-eIcz7YwpLB6vTGojxQQkEKFFVDzKa25imjpkm9OGbu9VbvO2nfzrwYUpy2PrfUACkT26g/s200/P1060810.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... we were hosted in Huanta by El Maestro, a local bike aficionado,mechanic, and head of local cycling club who has cycled extensively in Peru... (he helped Arnaud get some new cranks as well)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipIA1y6ojsjLYLcB0aqBFi-2iCSZHLEbwfzIWsMxo5QD-xOu31cJfSMlMf-aPsiih2Xhx3la5WsSbXXzGcynJ0ZBdp3IvY_pFAlNKd6HeIF6Qp7pdpFOfXSU9-ttIv8DV-_f1rFqkrXA/s1600/P1060812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipIA1y6ojsjLYLcB0aqBFi-2iCSZHLEbwfzIWsMxo5QD-xOu31cJfSMlMf-aPsiih2Xhx3la5WsSbXXzGcynJ0ZBdp3IvY_pFAlNKd6HeIF6Qp7pdpFOfXSU9-ttIv8DV-_f1rFqkrXA/s320/P1060812.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... the local kids are all about it too...</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_YXvLotYF1Xo1VOaKccTkg4nIiYFasHJJr0YchYvz32I9rfFZEc41Kv3CKXfKRacPBBX95Mdbc-4SkBsHeeYV2_RbJjP2cJQFsvCxTJGiTPD3e_sf25AQW6U7c1QRMsKv-27AjUCT2Q/s1600/P1060821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_YXvLotYF1Xo1VOaKccTkg4nIiYFasHJJr0YchYvz32I9rfFZEc41Kv3CKXfKRacPBBX95Mdbc-4SkBsHeeYV2_RbJjP2cJQFsvCxTJGiTPD3e_sf25AQW6U7c1QRMsKv-27AjUCT2Q/s320/P1060821.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff repairing broken spokes numbers 5 and 6 on this segment! Last task before Ayacucho.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(all photos this post: Arnaud de Lavelaye)</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-69629394381493574002011-10-10T15:47:00.001-10:002011-10-16T16:00:36.075-10:00Walking and Mountaineering excursions around Huaraz, Peru (September 8-18, 2011)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>We decided to use Huaraz as a base of explorations for a few weeks. Huaraz is smack against the amazing Cordillera Blanca, where there are 29 peaks over 6000 meters, over 600 glaciers, and a couple hundred lakes.<br />
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Our first excursion was with Patrick (Swiss German) and Natalie (Catalan), who accompanied us on a camping trip to Willcacocha Lake southwest of Huaraz: <br />
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(photos Craig Caparatta unless otherwise mentioned)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIGuYCLk7_xzSoT6syeNcHuFhsjm2exGfIwN52GPdS8BoZsfPV3XFfzMvSmJxh5k_BNvk7PPKr8fSyr0roKKigBU72H5kN5Dffbpy7XNo-V0NqxJwEcqni1VTKeDEewHOwouqmET_LGw/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIGuYCLk7_xzSoT6syeNcHuFhsjm2exGfIwN52GPdS8BoZsfPV3XFfzMvSmJxh5k_BNvk7PPKr8fSyr0roKKigBU72H5kN5Dffbpy7XNo-V0NqxJwEcqni1VTKeDEewHOwouqmET_LGw/s320/craigcajahuaraz+141.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">first, preparing for this excursion, Patrick went into the outskirts of Huaraz and brought back a specimen of San Pedro cactus, famous for its medicinal properties in South America...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOwS2E-dEbErH4oxb726oM-vPHGOTzNpIN43jrS2rRIDW5DUPoedx7DKHKxE-YHy11qn2c3-OGSXwpNcZjzijEe8kwBdiPd-DNA_bt5AnH1An0J4JXHoHUz7bIUQ7FRDWxvxIVNcqU5A/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOwS2E-dEbErH4oxb726oM-vPHGOTzNpIN43jrS2rRIDW5DUPoedx7DKHKxE-YHy11qn2c3-OGSXwpNcZjzijEe8kwBdiPd-DNA_bt5AnH1An0J4JXHoHUz7bIUQ7FRDWxvxIVNcqU5A/s200/craigcajahuaraz+142.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">he spent long hours cooking it down into a palatable tea, which we packed with us up into the hills</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi72osnFd2mScU9Q36Fu8gRGfvBCnNN6XA0vF-4EletAtE-417flw1M5BYOO1XUi8k_D1zxFjl6R-upbHq4KLUrhyphenhyphenZ2SnRUZYUwagyR92bxPd4in7Kess456gPLw2STdxn6NFbqLXySuQ/s1600/IMG_1613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi72osnFd2mScU9Q36Fu8gRGfvBCnNN6XA0vF-4EletAtE-417flw1M5BYOO1XUi8k_D1zxFjl6R-upbHq4KLUrhyphenhyphenZ2SnRUZYUwagyR92bxPd4in7Kess456gPLw2STdxn6NFbqLXySuQ/s400/IMG_1613.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: center;">Willcacocha Lake at 3600m in the Cordillera Negra<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeof1Qptm5i6huyBDSqDrlq_rAgNVh2v-RZt6dEjy6F1iTDFtQq744PnegtgVqi7q2bSo0nHt1Q1jCxx_RaTeQlM4RUlzBCuvNH_8ejZsUZJJe0ttQ2TNu1O2x3_SgDJumzHzhm8bYw/s1600/IMG_1615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeof1Qptm5i6huyBDSqDrlq_rAgNVh2v-RZt6dEjy6F1iTDFtQq744PnegtgVqi7q2bSo0nHt1Q1jCxx_RaTeQlM4RUlzBCuvNH_8ejZsUZJJe0ttQ2TNu1O2x3_SgDJumzHzhm8bYw/s320/IMG_1615.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>our campsite, lakeside<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitBVDNySI9JPkfKZGzwiLOcmUsNb3MIGEQZTi3HiHdpHvjxeUXLjJA6eHjY7AkounGKBsWxhjbF6ujXukGGVUPJ-POh4RWoVOp-d2nELS0mPNSUHF0WlCD0YcixKHj_uUbrlKmTRQuww/s1600/IMG_1618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitBVDNySI9JPkfKZGzwiLOcmUsNb3MIGEQZTi3HiHdpHvjxeUXLjJA6eHjY7AkounGKBsWxhjbF6ujXukGGVUPJ-POh4RWoVOp-d2nELS0mPNSUHF0WlCD0YcixKHj_uUbrlKmTRQuww/s200/IMG_1618.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>... mellow campfire...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCCVnHqf7dT4EAdW4PYvYCk-aMUCG3cf0HbzK-ga6NaKhyphenhyphenYLFxIlrBy8HDtFuJTkRHJTzxt5_HdYfEQ5KohDV5yvqk8tqA94pc-t6CyWuIjFxK1P2bUTys3nPY1G_ELQrqR40Is6IoqQ/s1600/IMG_5449-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCCVnHqf7dT4EAdW4PYvYCk-aMUCG3cf0HbzK-ga6NaKhyphenhyphenYLFxIlrBy8HDtFuJTkRHJTzxt5_HdYfEQ5KohDV5yvqk8tqA94pc-t6CyWuIjFxK1P2bUTys3nPY1G_ELQrqR40Is6IoqQ/s200/IMG_5449-2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Sonja (photo: Patrick Meury)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3H__0SMyv1GkFImS7sl1KaCzDu7wlbPRNKkPcGj-fuovxkIGzXgG1wEjtEtS9loH6iYYGHIw7Z6ewbxJ0axnQ7ueHoVrMcLxoaQpn3QLyrV-wZP13t8VQAWba8oVHLKDah-t5R-t4Yg/s1600/IMG_5451-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3H__0SMyv1GkFImS7sl1KaCzDu7wlbPRNKkPcGj-fuovxkIGzXgG1wEjtEtS9loH6iYYGHIw7Z6ewbxJ0axnQ7ueHoVrMcLxoaQpn3QLyrV-wZP13t8VQAWba8oVHLKDah-t5R-t4Yg/s200/IMG_5451-2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div> Jeff (photo: Patrick Meury)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOOoQYp6dwkuX-2ERlYUSCEyH5J-pQiVF5TOHS2XjgzEy42aXTsHcxUf_ExnIQvbqJ2iD-PWBxmO-cOsSUHLXnYMbdUX-VXUJ1DzDjfbZzBQPY9R24CRW3zixVM_iLFa8wHyvs5jE9cQ/s1600/IMG_5473-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOOoQYp6dwkuX-2ERlYUSCEyH5J-pQiVF5TOHS2XjgzEy42aXTsHcxUf_ExnIQvbqJ2iD-PWBxmO-cOsSUHLXnYMbdUX-VXUJ1DzDjfbZzBQPY9R24CRW3zixVM_iLFa8wHyvs5jE9cQ/s400/IMG_5473-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Huaraz at night backed by the Cordillera Blanca (photo: Patrick Meury)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCKVtjJ3zd_8-xGmi1UPws9tilHA1Uh95ZaTsZd3IeV4p7limZpSn70bQMBlbjrs3ZrvkD6ZAQPLfAJs-3iB2LuJbfkO5mxiHVMPMtvTg4u6iwSfqsyEYg8WD-_4KX_5qIvxEIi4egg/s1600/IMG_1627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCKVtjJ3zd_8-xGmi1UPws9tilHA1Uh95ZaTsZd3IeV4p7limZpSn70bQMBlbjrs3ZrvkD6ZAQPLfAJs-3iB2LuJbfkO5mxiHVMPMtvTg4u6iwSfqsyEYg8WD-_4KX_5qIvxEIi4egg/s400/IMG_1627.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>early morning view of Huascarán and nearby peaks<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Q1XaBsmt0UNdHlyqey7PUfYmSLPJPPkgTBopE_X0-bcMJLKP9ALYfwNUjWPVSRiUjMo_1h-cecMyYPwjJnNPT2ZXZGRiSK3r_sq6OYMyiQD-WQGdokE_SAVVM-4igQ18zy2Ilr9SCQ/s1600/IMG_5483-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Q1XaBsmt0UNdHlyqey7PUfYmSLPJPPkgTBopE_X0-bcMJLKP9ALYfwNUjWPVSRiUjMo_1h-cecMyYPwjJnNPT2ZXZGRiSK3r_sq6OYMyiQD-WQGdokE_SAVVM-4igQ18zy2Ilr9SCQ/s320/IMG_5483-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>...early morning tea for five... (photos: Patrick Meury)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNJU80Zr0HkcEdGe2bNG0TAfHvQzYsSFw5GqWxwBam6DEjOCZP4Qkau4gxNk5YFw2R-OtzrZl8QLchPmvkLa1QT8Db9fjbs1g7OmicwqOmgutRxF7ubHcBeLsSI37PFR-VlDDKR5E2zw/s1600/IMG_5484-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNJU80Zr0HkcEdGe2bNG0TAfHvQzYsSFw5GqWxwBam6DEjOCZP4Qkau4gxNk5YFw2R-OtzrZl8QLchPmvkLa1QT8Db9fjbs1g7OmicwqOmgutRxF7ubHcBeLsSI37PFR-VlDDKR5E2zw/s200/IMG_5484-2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhVbsyxMHVs_sjbaC1rSu4SuQ1UD9Hx9eDy4s7pv8L3KvSHx00Ecjr2cKp_WSYCLiSBEdSlEaVFJCyg3hKS9YQf3Tl1RD0_n3XkWmjyuN5Qcw2vazoo9JFZX1BGyzm0bqi-lA4HMvOpg/s1600/IMG_1628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhVbsyxMHVs_sjbaC1rSu4SuQ1UD9Hx9eDy4s7pv8L3KvSHx00Ecjr2cKp_WSYCLiSBEdSlEaVFJCyg3hKS9YQf3Tl1RD0_n3XkWmjyuN5Qcw2vazoo9JFZX1BGyzm0bqi-lA4HMvOpg/s200/IMG_1628.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Alán, local friendly dog who played with us all day<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGMbwaJj24RTEFyIAu5FJ1FRc7xahiADGDeKFUzFlhiZ137Yvxh8Se09YFmMiZjy1fmcaciL6h-8ImkwGwqEqPNIGq67VHFQuQHKG9NTTguoe476bpm7Z0ZhKVqQQwb9n6B_-Hc_B1g/s1600/IMG_1630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMGMbwaJj24RTEFyIAu5FJ1FRc7xahiADGDeKFUzFlhiZ137Yvxh8Se09YFmMiZjy1fmcaciL6h-8ImkwGwqEqPNIGq67VHFQuQHKG9NTTguoe476bpm7Z0ZhKVqQQwb9n6B_-Hc_B1g/s400/IMG_1630.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>the scene at mid-morning<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0JhTW_WIkg20oMMuqExF7jo6HBepMvRGMFY3qjvmGEzNEnhJS0Gt6mh5h-G41hfKc3UCuvH_44cTTTDaLRi4U5zJ3VMFKIii8OvPyNomJdzQxLnI102dCYGBnLTmYhZVal2lSy-dlQ/s1600/IMG_5479-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0JhTW_WIkg20oMMuqExF7jo6HBepMvRGMFY3qjvmGEzNEnhJS0Gt6mh5h-G41hfKc3UCuvH_44cTTTDaLRi4U5zJ3VMFKIii8OvPyNomJdzQxLnI102dCYGBnLTmYhZVal2lSy-dlQ/s320/IMG_5479-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>(photo: Patrick Meury)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIP76Cmzt050WfmpOTl_YfuA72w35ZQgUZ4oABkzgwmTJGuUaTK_62ulW-eQXIBYMCJ2val2Qr1tsMkWkRaSAlnDFli7fY2DJfMTPtIjT8MmsODY272sZz_gScaku3L3LM1ZBNPxd_0w/s1600/IMG_1638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIP76Cmzt050WfmpOTl_YfuA72w35ZQgUZ4oABkzgwmTJGuUaTK_62ulW-eQXIBYMCJ2val2Qr1tsMkWkRaSAlnDFli7fY2DJfMTPtIjT8MmsODY272sZz_gScaku3L3LM1ZBNPxd_0w/s320/IMG_1638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>... chilling and playing some songs...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1XVhXYzrv52UMRN1oPpxK2QN-gqg-Vs2NvvzqoD4lnQoJNwbqj6Qpl-AGkDKjYjqzgQBt0rKuYFCqMu7C9Vi6IfWC9cEzVyjO6trvFriLF62mMK1l1_C6NtHud0KQPoLUP505VFjCfQ/s1600/IMG_1641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1XVhXYzrv52UMRN1oPpxK2QN-gqg-Vs2NvvzqoD4lnQoJNwbqj6Qpl-AGkDKjYjqzgQBt0rKuYFCqMu7C9Vi6IfWC9cEzVyjO6trvFriLF62mMK1l1_C6NtHud0KQPoLUP505VFjCfQ/s320/IMG_1641.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1G4LUWt75LdqtWJaV_2fQTS-Yh0LaBAAZqC2XLClhdaPnmRhlY3xs1y5UZIx7olNSEvhuJly444B7F5pIl8UkMzegFddNoiykhnbbDsOF1D06oyutPz9P2TH_0eS0FaAT_6kJ8uHHBg/s1600/IMG_1643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1G4LUWt75LdqtWJaV_2fQTS-Yh0LaBAAZqC2XLClhdaPnmRhlY3xs1y5UZIx7olNSEvhuJly444B7F5pIl8UkMzegFddNoiykhnbbDsOF1D06oyutPz9P2TH_0eS0FaAT_6kJ8uHHBg/s200/IMG_1643.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Jeff relaxing in the shade</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMt7n-BDothxQwVJzErCCY1gH_MOayBoYxRucA0KpD3Qey6apIUpNctRYxnOJeePPd4ymlFvJjhv9MJBN9ceEpG7GwR4cdatjYXkQFzzHjvP6ZrW8TXgvEbwGfbMzj5WWRsmA9N3UUDg/s1600/IMG_1646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMt7n-BDothxQwVJzErCCY1gH_MOayBoYxRucA0KpD3Qey6apIUpNctRYxnOJeePPd4ymlFvJjhv9MJBN9ceEpG7GwR4cdatjYXkQFzzHjvP6ZrW8TXgvEbwGfbMzj5WWRsmA9N3UUDg/s400/IMG_1646.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">amazing light changes on the Cordillera Negra in mid-afternoon. Willcacocha has one of the best broad views of the Cordillera Blanca range.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpX7MC9TpLuFhxbloeqBsrxsKvf9EisYFKdwHT-U49OPGPH6jONcPGn1aSHKeqhJAdd_tcAxjbuJuUmn8OMijkmmxxAKmUcH1KvB_mmX0I_omH_GTRQuJ8ZfYv48hS6_5vtNJdIuthA/s1600/IMG_5491-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpX7MC9TpLuFhxbloeqBsrxsKvf9EisYFKdwHT-U49OPGPH6jONcPGn1aSHKeqhJAdd_tcAxjbuJuUmn8OMijkmmxxAKmUcH1KvB_mmX0I_omH_GTRQuJ8ZfYv48hS6_5vtNJdIuthA/s320/IMG_5491-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Natalie and Jeff (photo: Patrick Meury)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pAjkOchoB3jFNmYx7fjDWEUWBBWJs4zdEHmkfvTV6G_jBkH4pzxHUgBdlWppbKLmrdxj9r9BSdpqx8Em77cV6FDTEU8j5oUyZIt_ylK4vOUiQIY6sSJVruNgoitk-PnhRfqxHDnOgg/s1600/IMG_1648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pAjkOchoB3jFNmYx7fjDWEUWBBWJs4zdEHmkfvTV6G_jBkH4pzxHUgBdlWppbKLmrdxj9r9BSdpqx8Em77cV6FDTEU8j5oUyZIt_ylK4vOUiQIY6sSJVruNgoitk-PnhRfqxHDnOgg/s320/IMG_1648.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Patrick </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqC5FxCi5IAJSHVjvHIPGjsKcommbuXzk63w0lIera-kGDA8tAudscyoLGjAWQuCT5jz8LXhN3VdVrd6EFTFV2O2SA2eSW3Q8HqcWWH3yv26vl77o_7LwUMcq9doICKrug8r9FyyvZJw/s1600/IMG_1693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqC5FxCi5IAJSHVjvHIPGjsKcommbuXzk63w0lIera-kGDA8tAudscyoLGjAWQuCT5jz8LXhN3VdVrd6EFTFV2O2SA2eSW3Q8HqcWWH3yv26vl77o_7LwUMcq9doICKrug8r9FyyvZJw/s200/IMG_1693.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">local ass</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj82nDwhnd5BmpY46_Nw3Utm9yDctZKc6xxxeDE9V9e9wE36hlhrE75thgbencXEgE_sjNZWapmh8Gp0J7aRy7LThJMceTkY84NxLHfuw_cIjKmBppR8TAvpeGU8Sc2GgPuxv5DXj5yPw/s1600/IMG_1698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj82nDwhnd5BmpY46_Nw3Utm9yDctZKc6xxxeDE9V9e9wE36hlhrE75thgbencXEgE_sjNZWapmh8Gp0J7aRy7LThJMceTkY84NxLHfuw_cIjKmBppR8TAvpeGU8Sc2GgPuxv5DXj5yPw/s200/IMG_1698.jpg" width="150" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Craig...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSJt-QXY4l7sjf9PsWlus_WtJ0BQD6wu6oFSaLx8VADVPODrhuoo17OXzRqmcQ75s6LwzjXz1fdpBt5EYmORCucaWboQ5iNcEKmM2BskUjj_DSGi1wdmngWJE1C8CXE-MjTUSMIOBxJg/s1600/IMG_1718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSJt-QXY4l7sjf9PsWlus_WtJ0BQD6wu6oFSaLx8VADVPODrhuoo17OXzRqmcQ75s6LwzjXz1fdpBt5EYmORCucaWboQ5iNcEKmM2BskUjj_DSGi1wdmngWJE1C8CXE-MjTUSMIOBxJg/s200/IMG_1718.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... Jason with cactus vision<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMQtoKF4opacH0Y17VCiG9Gry1TQKuQb3PgrKfTnn9qkuh51j22T7zpzXpwahKeJ7JRd_zVaMJhrhz63MELgNtsg00hqCp1U91_duW0tuBFzFuvU7yzbyxPz2-jXmPCDd4ZSZ11w7uEA/s1600/IMG_5505-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMQtoKF4opacH0Y17VCiG9Gry1TQKuQb3PgrKfTnn9qkuh51j22T7zpzXpwahKeJ7JRd_zVaMJhrhz63MELgNtsg00hqCp1U91_duW0tuBFzFuvU7yzbyxPz2-jXmPCDd4ZSZ11w7uEA/s400/IMG_5505-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>later afternoon, after a quick storm rolled through the area (photo: Patrick Meury)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-oyv-dQd8ILZOdzPcGbx4kTAdrs0-iCsW7E-s_q_4kcjuQn7NkYTacL9dGAIjz0MBfhh2xX058ny4enQb_BYVDkYuI0Rq-HLOfQTejbvP4Ea2q-MxEtd11ugqcEEZlaSZjnL5PK1uBA/s1600/IMG_1714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-oyv-dQd8ILZOdzPcGbx4kTAdrs0-iCsW7E-s_q_4kcjuQn7NkYTacL9dGAIjz0MBfhh2xX058ny4enQb_BYVDkYuI0Rq-HLOfQTejbvP4Ea2q-MxEtd11ugqcEEZlaSZjnL5PK1uBA/s320/IMG_1714.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">the four of us after a great day at the lake. From here, Craig, Jason and Sonja headed towards Huancayo on bikes-- Jeff stayed behind in Huaraz to do some mountaineering.<br />
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(Remaining photos on this post: Arnaud de Lavelaye)<br />
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The second trip was a quickly-planned climb of 5750m Pisco, reputedly one of the easier nearby-peaks to climb in the Cordillera Blanca. Jeff was accompanied by Arnaud de Lavelaye, Belgian mountaineer and cyclist whom we first met in Capurganá, Colombia in April 2011 after travelling from Panamá to Colombia on boats. Arnaud's project is to be the first person to cycle to and climb the highest peak in each country in the western hemisphere, a daunting and massive undertaking. Therefore, Huascarán (Peru's highest peak) was to be our main goal, with Pisco coming first as a training and acclimitazation climb.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhup_y5riqGIMOLzdy8Z_iLy5Rw9_TpQgHhZJ8RnI5T-xW_Ki-7_I2SaGSnByvSNKPAk-LqeEzSEpq9scMgjKkJfxDcMJbVPjlo64p5fYuWW3uD4q3klDjb4Txsua67M8ZmHRqBbT_Kww/s1600/P1050967.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhup_y5riqGIMOLzdy8Z_iLy5Rw9_TpQgHhZJ8RnI5T-xW_Ki-7_I2SaGSnByvSNKPAk-LqeEzSEpq9scMgjKkJfxDcMJbVPjlo64p5fYuWW3uD4q3klDjb4Txsua67M8ZmHRqBbT_Kww/s400/P1050967.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Llanganuco Lake near the start of the climb to Pisco </div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi96ilMkkyBBuGRRsRZPUFCr7di0Y1ThjllBK6PLI_hx7uloNfdqlgKvkUyjWSHHosbbGXMTeTqLaFPt4KrRHKMgrh3424kyA4URUiyq4hyphenhyphenMi2vYrhX4nw1mtAGwGHwicV0GKlDGvnLVQ/s1600/P1050975.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi96ilMkkyBBuGRRsRZPUFCr7di0Y1ThjllBK6PLI_hx7uloNfdqlgKvkUyjWSHHosbbGXMTeTqLaFPt4KrRHKMgrh3424kyA4URUiyq4hyphenhyphenMi2vYrhX4nw1mtAGwGHwicV0GKlDGvnLVQ/s400/P1050975.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a glance back down the trail as we move upwards</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgciYkVUqIXPf6VnK1QgYESH0q0hLHSGBe18d03o_OvO-MZeyZhyphenhyphen4-1vRxLqbcfQo8XEwRjiL4YER1dEsfhmNWFtTLmhi01pt3i6nMvc6iBF2lPKHu1qTxnhVvu1M3mbDRNlEeJIZIzNg/s1600/P1050978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgciYkVUqIXPf6VnK1QgYESH0q0hLHSGBe18d03o_OvO-MZeyZhyphenhyphen4-1vRxLqbcfQo8XEwRjiL4YER1dEsfhmNWFtTLmhi01pt3i6nMvc6iBF2lPKHu1qTxnhVvu1M3mbDRNlEeJIZIzNg/s400/P1050978.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the refuge at 4600m, inclement weather rolling in, obscuring all the peaks in the region (boo)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTaMjDTLlaV5Pwto6cy9usdsqfpnsg7jMM4XY4orqNXlV-LO5mEobKTCa9CN8RtMHfghAISIWThaUr9Br5pLaYT_YlvdrKUrjabc7vSYD1YJro5piCK7H1xBOyGiC3lfSNBPwB_Iy9w/s1600/P1050983.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUTaMjDTLlaV5Pwto6cy9usdsqfpnsg7jMM4XY4orqNXlV-LO5mEobKTCa9CN8RtMHfghAISIWThaUr9Br5pLaYT_YlvdrKUrjabc7vSYD1YJro5piCK7H1xBOyGiC3lfSNBPwB_Iy9w/s320/P1050983.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff contemplating the huge moraine that we are to cross</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfASFyE3eP5SPVSuxAFgcyG57nvFGs8jj6Z_ck-2n_hCMLtXfyFERTL3iWiw7Skn7uzoGXVLhU7vj_VCZf-1-89AD_m32RosXOIQuDcygA1Ir3nHhB2ouAUzG1-x-waVLl9PUJmQBR3w/s1600/P1050999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfASFyE3eP5SPVSuxAFgcyG57nvFGs8jj6Z_ck-2n_hCMLtXfyFERTL3iWiw7Skn7uzoGXVLhU7vj_VCZf-1-89AD_m32RosXOIQuDcygA1Ir3nHhB2ouAUzG1-x-waVLl9PUJmQBR3w/s320/P1050999.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Arnaud enjoying the scene</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwdCVKV-eNzXTrQFeKmAtMqsqJeBJm63M7psWLc7hC09BybX3oyZ6dGcdCSnBPPSSuxdSOurclTVsvCn9BDht4x3IqxRkTobpxGnoXL5bJTKfJRTm8nUtLAp2yZdl2BpWPYEKR_zMhNA/s1600/P1060009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwdCVKV-eNzXTrQFeKmAtMqsqJeBJm63M7psWLc7hC09BybX3oyZ6dGcdCSnBPPSSuxdSOurclTVsvCn9BDht4x3IqxRkTobpxGnoXL5bJTKfJRTm8nUtLAp2yZdl2BpWPYEKR_zMhNA/s400/P1060009.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... now on the glacier the following morning, we were lucky to have strong moonlight to climb by...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF0bk_lA7gYJRRF9rKcz4rPNGAgzi43scGjGl-AqtSIyRm3qIVG8SnMQbNCTaOVCmZ8lgehcZEauy4UGcBxaQ-6AgkGek3Byt9dv5eWHPV2YwzStp60eW4UyDRVbZflRrEVwIuk5B06A/s1600/P1060010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF0bk_lA7gYJRRF9rKcz4rPNGAgzi43scGjGl-AqtSIyRm3qIVG8SnMQbNCTaOVCmZ8lgehcZEauy4UGcBxaQ-6AgkGek3Byt9dv5eWHPV2YwzStp60eW4UyDRVbZflRrEVwIuk5B06A/s320/P1060010.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijetQc8kpNqtfZ-tEi1uMmxmHvL6CQgWEcxkoPI8KbhX53yrZRU1443ZZ9ZhxB0kTzMOvlhIX0Tg1pLI-K7SJmv4KG2QZfsxo0uFZ7tOFn2KTuYehjTyZV7G9BPyX_S0YlDx-MbB4tlQ/s1600/P1060011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijetQc8kpNqtfZ-tEi1uMmxmHvL6CQgWEcxkoPI8KbhX53yrZRU1443ZZ9ZhxB0kTzMOvlhIX0Tg1pLI-K7SJmv4KG2QZfsxo0uFZ7tOFn2KTuYehjTyZV7G9BPyX_S0YlDx-MbB4tlQ/s400/P1060011.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">working up in pre-dawn in fantastic alpine scenery</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7wOcTo2-ZzcNDCfq3l72aDD_55gmQzTLTG_ya-173N5pdTRNtStJ1MRYVCWYi6W2ve3bST1jozOyRwMLZ6H6dm3nwTtetV25JJPSfkyteCpfVFlZpiysTSk-GM27Yaf14aCEmfJ3bA/s1600/P1060015-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7wOcTo2-ZzcNDCfq3l72aDD_55gmQzTLTG_ya-173N5pdTRNtStJ1MRYVCWYi6W2ve3bST1jozOyRwMLZ6H6dm3nwTtetV25JJPSfkyteCpfVFlZpiysTSk-GM27Yaf14aCEmfJ3bA/s320/P1060015-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...Arnaud with the nearby stunning Huandoy as backdrop...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTX2h8jYLioftjbX7qHkowvc3JLIK8EKDRsYVyW41UpyZRHYfpPG6h9ICJ9bvSbGC8EDK9sQS1l3YEyX42aqoPpAS1n3HdVz0PVA-ipN2JFciNHyE7OnFuZR4W0F2mm0YbN-OLWr_Pew/s1600/P1060017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTX2h8jYLioftjbX7qHkowvc3JLIK8EKDRsYVyW41UpyZRHYfpPG6h9ICJ9bvSbGC8EDK9sQS1l3YEyX42aqoPpAS1n3HdVz0PVA-ipN2JFciNHyE7OnFuZR4W0F2mm0YbN-OLWr_Pew/s320/P1060017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgShloOhdSt5q0JYWpkLR2-QrZZpq63KuSyMTdKdcNUAQ8fFjMUEJ1HVobrINlZeIPmRT0xfnM87zb_AnCYCWPtsxAfZ2mfV-WFOm35a-5GGyHAbgr2tNzrNG0D4V1WROIm1RhFI5KqoA/s1600/P1060018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgShloOhdSt5q0JYWpkLR2-QrZZpq63KuSyMTdKdcNUAQ8fFjMUEJ1HVobrINlZeIPmRT0xfnM87zb_AnCYCWPtsxAfZ2mfV-WFOm35a-5GGyHAbgr2tNzrNG0D4V1WROIm1RhFI5KqoA/s320/P1060018.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">getting close to the summit now</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXOzJFxvunf6jYACFNTH-qXO0KU9f4ti4hF3Uyq1W754NZn26UMbwqkPoeMvyO6WG6lOKh_9bvj0KN46M78STISNWmQRiyuoxpsFKRJFNM95kxt-2N7m7ivmcUIebeTTjXQexXoPdsg/s1600/P1060026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXOzJFxvunf6jYACFNTH-qXO0KU9f4ti4hF3Uyq1W754NZn26UMbwqkPoeMvyO6WG6lOKh_9bvj0KN46M78STISNWmQRiyuoxpsFKRJFNM95kxt-2N7m7ivmcUIebeTTjXQexXoPdsg/s320/P1060026.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff taking a breather with the stunning Pirámide (5885m) in the background</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj_YRh6eM3Rt-gEBD3uFkmdj4o4HuaSlIJ8qfYN8yBBYxAVXCs3LAh-ZJ1qWKayIIu1zDUR7VPEALYM0dWZ2dp0oeo-hlTEm8aSgwyYEQlgHT-BMeJgLqU4gYJ9aVG5XpjSA2fVZYXgw/s1600/P1060033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj_YRh6eM3Rt-gEBD3uFkmdj4o4HuaSlIJ8qfYN8yBBYxAVXCs3LAh-ZJ1qWKayIIu1zDUR7VPEALYM0dWZ2dp0oeo-hlTEm8aSgwyYEQlgHT-BMeJgLqU4gYJ9aVG5XpjSA2fVZYXgw/s200/P1060033.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff and Arnaud on the summit of Pisco at 5750m at 7:45 AM, and cold</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisty8DzrT_XYo7BsewbmNriOWBoYTJLRwDYQC_bxtEr2P5oYPYoJVhb5R0CDmAU4SSoxipPLUDy4fXKnuua6SDDnNRwXZp5E7KmVTuHOs30rGExOzNrdPh01GIADlINXm-kpwrGKwtSg/s1600/P1060039-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisty8DzrT_XYo7BsewbmNriOWBoYTJLRwDYQC_bxtEr2P5oYPYoJVhb5R0CDmAU4SSoxipPLUDy4fXKnuua6SDDnNRwXZp5E7KmVTuHOs30rGExOzNrdPh01GIADlINXm-kpwrGKwtSg/s400/P1060039-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the mythical Chacraraju (6108m), from the summit of Pisco</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIqYCCRpl4dhNmrZWGuAdHccy26yHpGwhtoKBmSOjj8EDI4D64Wq2YJmKe5bD3dJdFUxhEvTQ1hMhAfptjp8e0BPaWaJwLY8da41GuUZPL_3_ZKOT0NHAxcZ_MfYhpSCF7hyphenhyphenxD8p27w/s1600/P1060052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIqYCCRpl4dhNmrZWGuAdHccy26yHpGwhtoKBmSOjj8EDI4D64Wq2YJmKe5bD3dJdFUxhEvTQ1hMhAfptjp8e0BPaWaJwLY8da41GuUZPL_3_ZKOT0NHAxcZ_MfYhpSCF7hyphenhyphenxD8p27w/s320/P1060052.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">two clowns on the summit of Pisco, backed by 6395m Huandoy</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwrKbJVFZCFgX4aLgFS-6Ctck1qUVZFmR-LzOJZE15099PQUlxoXjLp46zaKxtG_JJdH4W0QqLR-0IS0Gzz1noqmqJMHjw84iJ1tZ3gN4OFfBQXBCjejcPiGDunjpk8dZD2rOHSVrPyw/s1600/P1060047-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwrKbJVFZCFgX4aLgFS-6Ctck1qUVZFmR-LzOJZE15099PQUlxoXjLp46zaKxtG_JJdH4W0QqLR-0IS0Gzz1noqmqJMHjw84iJ1tZ3gN4OFfBQXBCjejcPiGDunjpk8dZD2rOHSVrPyw/s400/P1060047-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a great morning look at Huascarán, at 6768m our next project</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6JaxVDrzy4YubSy3fxA-cVoC5AJR9U-GM5bwuLSjKcyWuOVJ7KkRaS1vk2VD_Z6WMFywcsj7ICWObUjCAOZB2KtScbelFwoDhlIyqfXrJUEgPkW23OXNSa80gWikHqC1iPtDfTHJMw/s1600/P1060059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6JaxVDrzy4YubSy3fxA-cVoC5AJR9U-GM5bwuLSjKcyWuOVJ7KkRaS1vk2VD_Z6WMFywcsj7ICWObUjCAOZB2KtScbelFwoDhlIyqfXrJUEgPkW23OXNSa80gWikHqC1iPtDfTHJMw/s320/P1060059.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... heading back down the mountain...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4aLOCyitPHL7PkD8neYc_TbHwiTu4FvK86khYIK7tjWyu0XNds51SeqN-xv8lpMqepcArbB1YvkFGNrI-rF2qPPo3NZtwwGXSJLOK3-5GSXOyhrichoqcgTAyPVQRfWVkQ2LpKka2w/s1600/P1060072-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4aLOCyitPHL7PkD8neYc_TbHwiTu4FvK86khYIK7tjWyu0XNds51SeqN-xv8lpMqepcArbB1YvkFGNrI-rF2qPPo3NZtwwGXSJLOK3-5GSXOyhrichoqcgTAyPVQRfWVkQ2LpKka2w/s400/P1060072-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">great Cordillera Blanca panorama, Artesonraju on the right (6025m)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPyXch1oBePOFPyixPcjOljCM1sr1ZYCBLTZnBvNYUN1DcFSxZqDAqCkyDmZeSRV80AiAFzac2SubjXHunp-SRZIW9JFqOnOevJcJACXSBtBs6ftcUV-LXLQpo-8aY879YyL1ZfjZ53w/s1600/P1060064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPyXch1oBePOFPyixPcjOljCM1sr1ZYCBLTZnBvNYUN1DcFSxZqDAqCkyDmZeSRV80AiAFzac2SubjXHunp-SRZIW9JFqOnOevJcJACXSBtBs6ftcUV-LXLQpo-8aY879YyL1ZfjZ53w/s320/P1060064.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this descent, as the ascent had been, featured some technical ice climbing above a dangerous crevasse zone. We soloed all of this, for better or worse.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW-EGMw2n9LNXv2TJrWCmC3k7gRPyJfaCWTu4r4lZkkGli0ssxiWdws1uAnVfwk4rBEhGmp7UCddrRzuDzFMp7PChMb2CJAXvDw3PubVyk4O_NRFYjmgnOWUUM2pjdlfE6Iq0WYNeZhQ/s1600/P1060069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW-EGMw2n9LNXv2TJrWCmC3k7gRPyJfaCWTu4r4lZkkGli0ssxiWdws1uAnVfwk4rBEhGmp7UCddrRzuDzFMp7PChMb2CJAXvDw3PubVyk4O_NRFYjmgnOWUUM2pjdlfE6Iq0WYNeZhQ/s320/P1060069.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... meandering through a dicey crevasse field...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqbcwtW7RqdCFzb6c2OqXwWo-qzbqJPputLZJcuZrefWipa-G9KRaSWN8o2GOTtWiayZTsedKsh2BmPuFb1Yh2eU_bNDK0U3Um04kTSDS1AiGY_Fp5514jfqoJP7wSXIqktriMFQ6x1g/s1600/P1060070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqbcwtW7RqdCFzb6c2OqXwWo-qzbqJPputLZJcuZrefWipa-G9KRaSWN8o2GOTtWiayZTsedKsh2BmPuFb1Yh2eU_bNDK0U3Um04kTSDS1AiGY_Fp5514jfqoJP7wSXIqktriMFQ6x1g/s320/P1060070.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjixjpl3S-PFpQA7ppDZQ9czShOfHVU2nldtHSeMv-o2tgesheK16f1WraV7xYHTecTEyyZ8GC9TG6HRKQIYlIeBKCxsgdbo17k6ELZyoMFIsdEiHIadZnuPZKLXQ629SnvkU1c4XzG1Q/s1600/P1060073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjixjpl3S-PFpQA7ppDZQ9czShOfHVU2nldtHSeMv-o2tgesheK16f1WraV7xYHTecTEyyZ8GC9TG6HRKQIYlIeBKCxsgdbo17k6ELZyoMFIsdEiHIadZnuPZKLXQ629SnvkU1c4XzG1Q/s320/P1060073.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... we had great weather for the descent... and got off the glacier before the snow got too slushy...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMS6fGGCjhS-pwKt6IkQhuCoSVNLJwAaEA_bhbAjR0y3j1NN3Nzze_IpznwWHNwPOh75cOEDsHEcr5qdz-TgngzzRyj3bL15G0h1O2LNkfWnWzozhgP5fsatvs76DB-z4U25SqR1tzg/s1600/P1060083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMS6fGGCjhS-pwKt6IkQhuCoSVNLJwAaEA_bhbAjR0y3j1NN3Nzze_IpznwWHNwPOh75cOEDsHEcr5qdz-TgngzzRyj3bL15G0h1O2LNkfWnWzozhgP5fsatvs76DB-z4U25SqR1tzg/s320/P1060083.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizqO7L4cSXyqiEqkB5T2QMhXCCEt53MIwIs3uwhq3a03YQumyer4sTNxcR-6aWx58aDiDOkoL99hNtN0_2Gh-LclYciUsE6bc0M4205IBAAmX8W7EElE9TFQ8oYOFz2S2El-WK1_toOw/s1600/P1060086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizqO7L4cSXyqiEqkB5T2QMhXCCEt53MIwIs3uwhq3a03YQumyer4sTNxcR-6aWx58aDiDOkoL99hNtN0_2Gh-LclYciUsE6bc0M4205IBAAmX8W7EElE9TFQ8oYOFz2S2El-WK1_toOw/s400/P1060086.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMmyZFWyAFm6KYQq0NTY7NrG4XSffSlUYlsfk258VNhFchgS8VzVm6Bg6cYrovzgdGH37bCP9aNUZxpns2zS7h1kIFIVnwHv7zkd07D-x-kTsiscfqpzL8ppld_yOzwPx2xkdgEIQYWA/s1600/P1060092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMmyZFWyAFm6KYQq0NTY7NrG4XSffSlUYlsfk258VNhFchgS8VzVm6Bg6cYrovzgdGH37bCP9aNUZxpns2zS7h1kIFIVnwHv7zkd07D-x-kTsiscfqpzL8ppld_yOzwPx2xkdgEIQYWA/s320/P1060092.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our campsite not far below the start of the glacier</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcqrVPlHOVYOOPFCPtI4kXgqG8lysDPQYx12JZLCrLzU7cVUKEEsDDSFriiXzRIBauj0nObhH_-CIUjxhQzhz_XZ32BEq_floc0Xlp5dW6vNtcfPYGiSH0D6ATX6Fnhr-ZgyzD9-qF_Q/s1600/P1060101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcqrVPlHOVYOOPFCPtI4kXgqG8lysDPQYx12JZLCrLzU7cVUKEEsDDSFriiXzRIBauj0nObhH_-CIUjxhQzhz_XZ32BEq_floc0Xlp5dW6vNtcfPYGiSH0D6ATX6Fnhr-ZgyzD9-qF_Q/s400/P1060101.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... incredible scenery heading down...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTHH3CK9NfLfyMztc3bMg9pX198tceaeq0X1fCqguX0iJOpIwyckrwjWJU5270JKSSJjBGapscr-xbmcQEi-Bd1mLlWQR110J_mVHvL2yBWu7qS6DJbRpth_i2f9Mo0p05O9VfyVyKbQ/s1600/P1060110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTHH3CK9NfLfyMztc3bMg9pX198tceaeq0X1fCqguX0iJOpIwyckrwjWJU5270JKSSJjBGapscr-xbmcQEi-Bd1mLlWQR110J_mVHvL2yBWu7qS6DJbRpth_i2f9Mo0p05O9VfyVyKbQ/s320/P1060110.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszlwzaiHDmieu8uB4W_FO-5X6_PS1CxNF7Cp52EjoF9zHHh0P49ESeTiNPewF0YDlXV2KpRlnmN8l235E9A6AGcrMfjK2zA6KpPxadgwnhu190m1QNi5nsfElx5UBa-603KcoV6CVoA/s1600/P1060112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszlwzaiHDmieu8uB4W_FO-5X6_PS1CxNF7Cp52EjoF9zHHh0P49ESeTiNPewF0YDlXV2KpRlnmN8l235E9A6AGcrMfjK2zA6KpPxadgwnhu190m1QNi5nsfElx5UBa-603KcoV6CVoA/s400/P1060112.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">a good luck at the amazing mountain of Pisco, which we had never gotten a view of on the way up</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYtP9YDTMm7KEpDykHgkg-AenIyQjLZsZfpKlRyzU_7efrv1yTtKmqilxhDVRfkqgfPHvboMx9lQlXh1wXp6Fend_sBm9Zzpr35Tr_pCeNo9AMVULJ9ThU4ji6M2Hy-vriyyRt6gQ1VA/s1600/P1060120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYtP9YDTMm7KEpDykHgkg-AenIyQjLZsZfpKlRyzU_7efrv1yTtKmqilxhDVRfkqgfPHvboMx9lQlXh1wXp6Fend_sBm9Zzpr35Tr_pCeNo9AMVULJ9ThU4ji6M2Hy-vriyyRt6gQ1VA/s200/P1060120.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhP7wE3W1P2ctjz9pIgxYUD8O5sr7jQM05ZXb1CNGGqNobGtMCtxo2hgy5T_1vXafNEQzV1HSY5Z9kTW3ZWh0XRZr91MkzVA9p-znt2JPkjl8KXR54gnG3lvxhP0rpDtviEeHDJ6yVQ/s1600/P1060122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhP7wE3W1P2ctjz9pIgxYUD8O5sr7jQM05ZXb1CNGGqNobGtMCtxo2hgy5T_1vXafNEQzV1HSY5Z9kTW3ZWh0XRZr91MkzVA9p-znt2JPkjl8KXR54gnG3lvxhP0rpDtviEeHDJ6yVQ/s400/P1060122.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this was the scene as we descended back down towards the Llanganuco lakes</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkDvm4Z0tRhvM7kDrG4rf0fWcTmwwSsWxSME-Dhms-PgoEWz1MP6-Ipz6QGxDtSsseuZ_XJQdqPNx6WHcjjDSalBpQe8046Wfr2JH1t4Wq7IHFnikDgfb3J94gIE4kPZWq7o4g5Yz2w/s1600/P1060136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkDvm4Z0tRhvM7kDrG4rf0fWcTmwwSsWxSME-Dhms-PgoEWz1MP6-Ipz6QGxDtSsseuZ_XJQdqPNx6WHcjjDSalBpQe8046Wfr2JH1t4Wq7IHFnikDgfb3J94gIE4kPZWq7o4g5Yz2w/s320/P1060136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... lush vegetation at the bottom...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8EkALhXn1qsxBlEr2sKLfrh95McHxc0LJCg0L4Ac8lYaw5TkSlTGfzFwSZsOCeDh9-Ul3kvomazkohXxJYzBFBfDpeNi3-xGP1qMYeFySyYuzw2elNZPjIyZfy5uUlC_KZb6wmqCs9Q/s1600/P1060137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8EkALhXn1qsxBlEr2sKLfrh95McHxc0LJCg0L4Ac8lYaw5TkSlTGfzFwSZsOCeDh9-Ul3kvomazkohXxJYzBFBfDpeNi3-xGP1qMYeFySyYuzw2elNZPjIyZfy5uUlC_KZb6wmqCs9Q/s200/P1060137.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The third excursion around Huaraz was an attempt on Huascarán. Having researched thoroughly, and having discovered that there is a very dangerous and extensive crevasse, serac and avalanche zone called La Canaleta, we decided to hire a guide service for this trip. Going with guides is not usual or desired for either Jeff or Arnaud (in fact usually to be avoided), but due to the reputed dangerous nature of the mountain it seemed an acceptable compromise. We chose Enrique Expeditions in Huaraz. As it was the end of the climbing season, we were given a big discount to join an already-scheduled expedition. The deal was that we would carry all of our own stuff, even though the other clients would have mules carrying theirs. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzK4NSgY-p0-mdB3JBJvh1Kl2oaUaVqfujcP9z0A6cPixhnp9LmCd4IDkK5BPIAmYGeC4t3L02U9am3VWldsK4qs_LWJNuflW1XOcuaOOZ-bMcJFRV5h0Hrq8V0h719a-ccb9QEF2fVw/s1600/P1060142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzK4NSgY-p0-mdB3JBJvh1Kl2oaUaVqfujcP9z0A6cPixhnp9LmCd4IDkK5BPIAmYGeC4t3L02U9am3VWldsK4qs_LWJNuflW1XOcuaOOZ-bMcJFRV5h0Hrq8V0h719a-ccb9QEF2fVw/s320/P1060142.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... starting up the lower slopes of Huascarán from Musho, with excellent clear weather...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpxDEdIPmnk4TWbrdu7GuOjG3Vq4Ybmnsrw2GpgwJ-ETrTRf4jH3zYFm5M7TX8LCaRxVwbumlWQtYS3SKYCVjTWCDDeS3Gk1C4GkIyctBlf_LB1U4-Q-RlP3ilY02tw6GFcOlzTnX5dw/s1600/P1060146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpxDEdIPmnk4TWbrdu7GuOjG3Vq4Ybmnsrw2GpgwJ-ETrTRf4jH3zYFm5M7TX8LCaRxVwbumlWQtYS3SKYCVjTWCDDeS3Gk1C4GkIyctBlf_LB1U4-Q-RlP3ilY02tw6GFcOlzTnX5dw/s320/P1060146.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghVMOa1nV-0cpN5VMP1Eh6lm9aRKazv6K5wxusWw5C9HA65BVOvknpUmCsIAgSr_LL56Hw0trbpyz2mAwRE0fVJwVK2Z_OuoDnJR1lyR7kn53z5zCSiulJ9QZdSyf6abgsfpgvJK84TA/s1600/P1060150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghVMOa1nV-0cpN5VMP1Eh6lm9aRKazv6K5wxusWw5C9HA65BVOvknpUmCsIAgSr_LL56Hw0trbpyz2mAwRE0fVJwVK2Z_OuoDnJR1lyR7kn53z5zCSiulJ9QZdSyf6abgsfpgvJK84TA/s400/P1060150.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">we had great views of the Cordillera Negra all day</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGX817xc3qFn3u7aEGg2CYqnZEfBPO7FiyzqmVuf_ZntVT6oncM-LDc9XY9J_bNkHY2SegKM1aQ666OMMcyjc-tpy9kJI7BC2bkBF5xDJI5C0cCwIaqLw8HyEKr0guRsyszM-EprzRzw/s1600/P1060154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGX817xc3qFn3u7aEGg2CYqnZEfBPO7FiyzqmVuf_ZntVT6oncM-LDc9XY9J_bNkHY2SegKM1aQ666OMMcyjc-tpy9kJI7BC2bkBF5xDJI5C0cCwIaqLw8HyEKr0guRsyszM-EprzRzw/s320/P1060154.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff takes a rest with the north peak of Huascarán peaking through in the background</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbsYhT6VrK8y8_ZWQ63d53b-CZFy1mjQDdeBc1uGf0pQbF_mrNTjgPIQUIgTC1X9kPRFaBTp-IbtX__jDdtRSEeC68csNJe2iJ486ClUEUT2lPV_7LF79fFsG7w4wQlGERnvLt_cK9kw/s1600/P1060156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbsYhT6VrK8y8_ZWQ63d53b-CZFy1mjQDdeBc1uGf0pQbF_mrNTjgPIQUIgTC1X9kPRFaBTp-IbtX__jDdtRSEeC68csNJe2iJ486ClUEUT2lPV_7LF79fFsG7w4wQlGERnvLt_cK9kw/s320/P1060156.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the group, besides Arnaud and Jeff, was composed of a Mexican-Australian couple, and an Italian</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindTyBjuPbIfBUUDQQcSWOUXwa4wQ53wOeCLa8BtfotggQ7dnoeX6e_LKJfxnNzJibSaYxIKd4WMXFI4ics0pJBeNmJzCuTG1E0dKUE031iuob5lb0Fn7dEKerZdh2vLb3edaIdQ8NBw/s1600/P1060159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEindTyBjuPbIfBUUDQQcSWOUXwa4wQ53wOeCLa8BtfotggQ7dnoeX6e_LKJfxnNzJibSaYxIKd4WMXFI4ics0pJBeNmJzCuTG1E0dKUE031iuob5lb0Fn7dEKerZdh2vLb3edaIdQ8NBw/s400/P1060159.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the mule train bringing up the rear</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ7du_iyBKjlEFBm5dnXH3ZHvcfaIxPTRqg1X2io4gbLe06up7qUvNNotTHq3Mrxp4OzE8dKJtSiUQ58SACc0d6p9Fr5GYWbBNmf5bCFOuODLOV4NgTSvbB7DEL7xo7EWOvCCS3phyAQ/s1600/P1060164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ7du_iyBKjlEFBm5dnXH3ZHvcfaIxPTRqg1X2io4gbLe06up7qUvNNotTHq3Mrxp4OzE8dKJtSiUQ58SACc0d6p9Fr5GYWbBNmf5bCFOuODLOV4NgTSvbB7DEL7xo7EWOvCCS3phyAQ/s200/P1060164.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">alpine lupine</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZpJ7ZY_IUFYKGOR-2qbsIPQP-6KBDN_tkFy1i7eAacBUTH5DaNPJmIX2uvrW4cBsuOGINUTajIOfl5EeQGdI_6NiyhIaOWeMPkha2W330WeEAojCIyjqsZ6dNsYxh4bhQJP7Gpg_srQ/s1600/P1060169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZpJ7ZY_IUFYKGOR-2qbsIPQP-6KBDN_tkFy1i7eAacBUTH5DaNPJmIX2uvrW4cBsuOGINUTajIOfl5EeQGdI_6NiyhIaOWeMPkha2W330WeEAojCIyjqsZ6dNsYxh4bhQJP7Gpg_srQ/s320/P1060169.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">nice trail</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1V0kw6gbTzqKxkuAwdXnqvyISn3IKwzUpO1Ll6sF157OXzAHpgj3ylJ9R6ebQKSN-fE40y8ve4QMFquvWlPwnuOycr0nM8Fkr3NxJPT5G_MOLOAVRMeoxKSoTn0n4A4UxpZMA9t0FQ/s1600/P1060172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1V0kw6gbTzqKxkuAwdXnqvyISn3IKwzUpO1Ll6sF157OXzAHpgj3ylJ9R6ebQKSN-fE40y8ve4QMFquvWlPwnuOycr0nM8Fkr3NxJPT5G_MOLOAVRMeoxKSoTn0n4A4UxpZMA9t0FQ/s200/P1060172.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... the gorgeously-situated Camp One...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQ48PmkSVtia04hUAt4cIBB0fJTFupDy0RqE-EvzXwLyflLs47L8cn32MlhKuVunSmmbRx7zWoD_Jvbq6ypSBTdJ3gZksKPZ2bCe2kGVqVnmwshga8Fp1NCGVJJf4y985bO914VNuUQ/s1600/P1060174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQ48PmkSVtia04hUAt4cIBB0fJTFupDy0RqE-EvzXwLyflLs47L8cn32MlhKuVunSmmbRx7zWoD_Jvbq6ypSBTdJ3gZksKPZ2bCe2kGVqVnmwshga8Fp1NCGVJJf4y985bO914VNuUQ/s320/P1060174.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiJOFCObyfBJuf9nLNyxIiOT9kNLzSRi58TQd5hKfTvd9mSqgHwABH-ny3sGnU4kYU8HHhKlqOEy-tRZ3CxchpoPKeacjJhk9oTL7uqsSwXBX96sTbK-x9QBf1ZCqyySPyw5VJNGGDzQ/s1600/P1060176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiJOFCObyfBJuf9nLNyxIiOT9kNLzSRi58TQd5hKfTvd9mSqgHwABH-ny3sGnU4kYU8HHhKlqOEy-tRZ3CxchpoPKeacjJhk9oTL7uqsSwXBX96sTbK-x9QBf1ZCqyySPyw5VJNGGDzQ/s400/P1060176.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... spectacular sunset beyond the Cordillera Negra from Camp One...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSfbxZKwl1nK3bEdUg50l-wR350glKMzPeBWtpBpv5OPiCTe97sZTqp4WXT3ag91J08KBLy2C-NuxWQzs3phYHeKwbpZ2hGhgW6PMTz-KXK3jNW9zTo3pDrCQdR68cnj1BChMUvxVemw/s1600/P1060185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSfbxZKwl1nK3bEdUg50l-wR350glKMzPeBWtpBpv5OPiCTe97sZTqp4WXT3ag91J08KBLy2C-NuxWQzs3phYHeKwbpZ2hGhgW6PMTz-KXK3jNW9zTo3pDrCQdR68cnj1BChMUvxVemw/s320/P1060185.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAJX_DegXziQAa2d_Ab07xyXrUwRV_CuvHGauVU4hzUS9jDgNctwqG0k_cdFVOVLI7gkOJJYyR-lWhFN2t5xv6G9_y77ADX9VuLNT7UwA08-LvgBhAwvOux4kiLejfJQAu7eZ_pnmggg/s1600/P1060189-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAJX_DegXziQAa2d_Ab07xyXrUwRV_CuvHGauVU4hzUS9jDgNctwqG0k_cdFVOVLI7gkOJJYyR-lWhFN2t5xv6G9_y77ADX9VuLNT7UwA08-LvgBhAwvOux4kiLejfJQAu7eZ_pnmggg/s320/P1060189-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Arnaud as we strike out for higher altitudes the following morning</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfSJsVA9RksfB3FiDDg0NEjtaa8V7oDzTs-CfW7Fon5BCFMSetuXg99SZMWsmGh5k1hcDJC3soS07kTkOEQSY3ngqk4FeuwnIlMl_YKiQRdpSx0QDDoe46mpcqB_Dh-Llg4Lu_d0yVew/s1600/P1060195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfSJsVA9RksfB3FiDDg0NEjtaa8V7oDzTs-CfW7Fon5BCFMSetuXg99SZMWsmGh5k1hcDJC3soS07kTkOEQSY3ngqk4FeuwnIlMl_YKiQRdpSx0QDDoe46mpcqB_Dh-Llg4Lu_d0yVew/s200/P1060195.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyQxvXjvB7le1Jd84YK5ypc79NdonokwGNwrqC_iInT2QfXmCHCLy3s7Ipdrf6suQpGLCXlcCPqYNINhhGtcXa-EH_ESJtmKmwzsmtlDqwtuYFz-14zeilSjo6EOfMHRdBwX82lQxlw/s1600/P1060201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyQxvXjvB7le1Jd84YK5ypc79NdonokwGNwrqC_iInT2QfXmCHCLy3s7Ipdrf6suQpGLCXlcCPqYNINhhGtcXa-EH_ESJtmKmwzsmtlDqwtuYFz-14zeilSjo6EOfMHRdBwX82lQxlw/s320/P1060201.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the north peak of Huascarán, clear and gleaming</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhWpWrCVvrGbxORKFskYtN2bai2hi_pTfHQJ7o3YqU-e_X8KQTLOREXWQDDoMRkWRN0PnbcntQCgLThAOQWGGeRKrjv1mgBTV4TUyPpKfE-CbzYQuML6lSB9EvQN5LWENjURwxzNr5Q/s1600/P1060207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhWpWrCVvrGbxORKFskYtN2bai2hi_pTfHQJ7o3YqU-e_X8KQTLOREXWQDDoMRkWRN0PnbcntQCgLThAOQWGGeRKrjv1mgBTV4TUyPpKfE-CbzYQuML6lSB9EvQN5LWENjURwxzNr5Q/s320/P1060207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Arnaud rests with the humps of Huascarán Norte y Sur as the backdrop</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEkVV95JAwIqBCWf9jonFW1nwymjiIlBp0hnZ5z2GgjM-H8Ntif1z_gwAQsscSQ97kg7orzXtFY5vnBogwtt_CmUuD7jT-rC3Pfk3RFgR_R-EuTXwDZx9FPOxD1ZjedIIDfDKrN5t0Ag/s1600/P1060212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEkVV95JAwIqBCWf9jonFW1nwymjiIlBp0hnZ5z2GgjM-H8Ntif1z_gwAQsscSQ97kg7orzXtFY5vnBogwtt_CmUuD7jT-rC3Pfk3RFgR_R-EuTXwDZx9FPOxD1ZjedIIDfDKrN5t0Ag/s320/P1060212.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Huascarán Sur, with its huge ice shield just left of center</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtMz1iA2sprHhFcFgBo2Ic7mzN08JqqTkk75k3xcm7CeltMpSWP1zN1guPytBJZAkEl9th8Yh5YzxRX2JXNh4RGe3ASxZGHlFyKhxO6qpLvDMxSAsGxbR0AwmQnuuVKSKf51GgC_iN3Q/s1600/P1060220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtMz1iA2sprHhFcFgBo2Ic7mzN08JqqTkk75k3xcm7CeltMpSWP1zN1guPytBJZAkEl9th8Yh5YzxRX2JXNh4RGe3ASxZGHlFyKhxO6qpLvDMxSAsGxbR0AwmQnuuVKSKf51GgC_iN3Q/s320/P1060220.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">resting somewhat below the start of the glacier</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhymEM3hfnW2W12MFtNcXtkepCAbSK2gnaJRmx33JfzgNtPxPaioNnbotnxXhgBU_etxw_8XoXLLjNxyraaMvUOZJclGp-QzE9c7C2kCrvcQKWvvzixquwWOIzPSA8NMJEtNlKPhkqqiQ/s1600/P1060258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhymEM3hfnW2W12MFtNcXtkepCAbSK2gnaJRmx33JfzgNtPxPaioNnbotnxXhgBU_etxw_8XoXLLjNxyraaMvUOZJclGp-QzE9c7C2kCrvcQKWvvzixquwWOIzPSA8NMJEtNlKPhkqqiQ/s200/P1060258.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff's gear</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOmw_rYv2vKnG5rqJuaGD0w1SIugIAqARKh2p25aR_s95B8oOG8TiGJJtBemvj9Y10cEg3skUJynkclfPgmPIfLrJE6-4j5ALiKCuHLv4ClPjZrREM_3O0DskdbEK94R0TLX4qy99FWg/s1600/P1060227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOmw_rYv2vKnG5rqJuaGD0w1SIugIAqARKh2p25aR_s95B8oOG8TiGJJtBemvj9Y10cEg3skUJynkclfPgmPIfLrJE6-4j5ALiKCuHLv4ClPjZrREM_3O0DskdbEK94R0TLX4qy99FWg/s320/P1060227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">starting up the glacier in mid-afternoon</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDB9qwyYb7jYK5vzh0Njv__V24rBVulekzj7bOMBR2KAJzo2Mym27JdWqzD6p5gepogLUQAd7FiYADuHBrVA3ydG4peHuMVCYZ2Lp2horzwWzwWiix9ZXHkva2UcJFCX00Gxj7fvCcig/s1600/P1060229-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDB9qwyYb7jYK5vzh0Njv__V24rBVulekzj7bOMBR2KAJzo2Mym27JdWqzD6p5gepogLUQAd7FiYADuHBrVA3ydG4peHuMVCYZ2Lp2horzwWzwWiix9ZXHkva2UcJFCX00Gxj7fvCcig/s320/P1060229-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Manuel Maricón, our assistant guide</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_N1bLKQuVecMA7YQwzQibAHAi4_anb_VVpVmB34Z3tds8ytF1SIoy6ysaFucqT4fkv1-MpCKkeMXrabXusAUjTuRT5Aj7rgmXije02jBYk09zuRJfzX8pLTuwXdN9YmtF1xx1QrA5rw/s1600/P1060234-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_N1bLKQuVecMA7YQwzQibAHAi4_anb_VVpVmB34Z3tds8ytF1SIoy6ysaFucqT4fkv1-MpCKkeMXrabXusAUjTuRT5Aj7rgmXije02jBYk09zuRJfzX8pLTuwXdN9YmtF1xx1QrA5rw/s400/P1060234-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...coming up the glacier...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0KqCmo-vQLt3Gjfn4XY8m-a9vywszAmuhIGUIxN_Y3a-GotnFR26O_oTQgOqBmzg4S5HsCMl4wQZ3AgS_oDrAMuySWCGRuWThf0D6JICEVyorBvjqHBAodlZzXfMZDWtsTv_67mBUlQ/s1600/P1060236-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0KqCmo-vQLt3Gjfn4XY8m-a9vywszAmuhIGUIxN_Y3a-GotnFR26O_oTQgOqBmzg4S5HsCMl4wQZ3AgS_oDrAMuySWCGRuWThf0D6JICEVyorBvjqHBAodlZzXfMZDWtsTv_67mBUlQ/s320/P1060236-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqY6au_dHqyn-gp7wDRzTghfEH3W5n8HoEUTu7hVT-zz2QKJUtCYegY12VS-cbZg5YBFMYjKXq5DSp9dAcy-z2I421vuSvH-LpSrKZCOG5o7Smwwn9HfkcRc-Nxg8E2ZVtGg2NN9au2g/s1600/P1060239.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqY6au_dHqyn-gp7wDRzTghfEH3W5n8HoEUTu7hVT-zz2QKJUtCYegY12VS-cbZg5YBFMYjKXq5DSp9dAcy-z2I421vuSvH-LpSrKZCOG5o7Smwwn9HfkcRc-Nxg8E2ZVtGg2NN9au2g/s320/P1060239.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... Camp Two, dug out of the snow by the porteadores...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjJHKKHsNs2cAghLsA41yQdgViejC2hYlKyQJ-GfWy5OZXuwjE6xhjo92Uj4Mw8lNKkFRYRLiV4RnMdYoXcxkuAZ8rywmndL-ky8W9igDhN3NsunlAlSeB1ECHljmfAoCTZDv5MM-MA/s1600/P1060240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjJHKKHsNs2cAghLsA41yQdgViejC2hYlKyQJ-GfWy5OZXuwjE6xhjo92Uj4Mw8lNKkFRYRLiV4RnMdYoXcxkuAZ8rywmndL-ky8W9igDhN3NsunlAlSeB1ECHljmfAoCTZDv5MM-MA/s320/P1060240.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In Camp Two at daybreak the following morning</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGJobsNx3z8u2oah_vgoy-ZQXexmyPbYMHHVhyWXvRwz_dlVKRdv69oAgVVUEeW9Ufxx94FRmPUiBF3kTA3cUHchgcmBnVfuX0BlqhhuQj7cvj9LP0FSQEy5k3F2nDfQaKKjOGylWvHQ/s1600/P1060242-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGJobsNx3z8u2oah_vgoy-ZQXexmyPbYMHHVhyWXvRwz_dlVKRdv69oAgVVUEeW9Ufxx94FRmPUiBF3kTA3cUHchgcmBnVfuX0BlqhhuQj7cvj9LP0FSQEy5k3F2nDfQaKKjOGylWvHQ/s320/P1060242-2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Manuel Maricón leads the porteadores across a sketchy ice bridge on the way to Camp Three</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2g2bRaZbeXVzXi38A_-1TjR-umQi75Qqa-t0D0yBICstnk9ZhoAKVP2COAywt89b5w6Igrn3_QohNUio0R_RwEEPhZt9eLexeHZz48b1H_X3_OEh2QaO29DnHOlM82MWIQ1MXYTgBA/s1600/P1060243-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2g2bRaZbeXVzXi38A_-1TjR-umQi75Qqa-t0D0yBICstnk9ZhoAKVP2COAywt89b5w6Igrn3_QohNUio0R_RwEEPhZt9eLexeHZz48b1H_X3_OEh2QaO29DnHOlM82MWIQ1MXYTgBA/s320/P1060243-2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... this crevasse stopped our forward progress. Even though there were various ice bridges across, the guides decided it wasn't passable, and decided to end the expedition here. Arnaud and Jeff were furious, and had a heated conversation with the guides. As he had done all morning, Manuel Maricón tried to convince us to turn around. Meanwhile, Darwin Hijodeputa, the head guide, phoned the agency in Huaraz and reported a series of lies to his boss Enrique, explaining that the weather was bad (snowing and getting worse, far from the truth), that it had snowed all night and there was high avalanche danger (only flurries at night, avalanche danger actually very low), and that the crevasse was impassable (he never tried to find an alternative, which is his job, and ostensibly why we hired him!). So, crestfallen and severely disappointed, we turned around here and headed back towards Camp One.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfl2nO6ugGzr8TwVfZDH0m1MPtNN5WaH-4XIvsAlA5lICfjuyjVUImIVthJeXCDIhSRM2upK_6pzc_MGs2JbZ_3kPVX7HEIPZXHMTnv7H6Tnxr6cEiGnUU9BTJHquhXx-QLvTRJIDvlw/s1600/P1060245-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfl2nO6ugGzr8TwVfZDH0m1MPtNN5WaH-4XIvsAlA5lICfjuyjVUImIVthJeXCDIhSRM2upK_6pzc_MGs2JbZ_3kPVX7HEIPZXHMTnv7H6Tnxr6cEiGnUU9BTJHquhXx-QLvTRJIDvlw/s320/P1060245-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">another look at the crevasse where we turned back</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSsdZMp08z5xaslFAu9YuAJWTt2hKWPUcuhUhbqZCWWcf2CGifMlwvvHkSlscdb_4bZH9KIa-rsmfXXrY_mTBQZN4M4EZvUeDHmdlCkvryiBUgsIjxIdHSRJZIFqelrED5GWO7MGf7g/s1600/P1060249-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSsdZMp08z5xaslFAu9YuAJWTt2hKWPUcuhUhbqZCWWcf2CGifMlwvvHkSlscdb_4bZH9KIa-rsmfXXrY_mTBQZN4M4EZvUeDHmdlCkvryiBUgsIjxIdHSRJZIFqelrED5GWO7MGf7g/s400/P1060249-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">heading back down the glacier</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT84Ch-_unxTnhOPTZquJEDx5ab0FV-mwrT0p8aK-J2O6XOUbeBgSRAiTQ9eMAsT_nON-G6P72-YwQ-9F7gWiuQlqC3Z4sIX7nW6UymAf7Nh6OAT1IxBjlGxzfknBIOzjr3LpCRzviwg/s1600/P1060252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT84Ch-_unxTnhOPTZquJEDx5ab0FV-mwrT0p8aK-J2O6XOUbeBgSRAiTQ9eMAsT_nON-G6P72-YwQ-9F7gWiuQlqC3Z4sIX7nW6UymAf7Nh6OAT1IxBjlGxzfknBIOzjr3LpCRzviwg/s320/P1060252.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this section featured some technical ice climbing, as there was a vertical ice wall perched directly above a deep crevasse. Jeff making his way down.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1yTwnpzpuk6Yt1m3nBoD-zKrynjsFoIKB6KPXjUiH_UPVqkDgIS8eEjRbSKkfyyGmq2lgQL710-1pqNKcWyyzOCqAaKA8AfLaU8AkKlAnv37t86tpXU_n0MSnZXFklrNgThGzhlucMA/s1600/P1060256-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1yTwnpzpuk6Yt1m3nBoD-zKrynjsFoIKB6KPXjUiH_UPVqkDgIS8eEjRbSKkfyyGmq2lgQL710-1pqNKcWyyzOCqAaKA8AfLaU8AkKlAnv37t86tpXU_n0MSnZXFklrNgThGzhlucMA/s400/P1060256-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is the "terrible" weather on Huascarán only 30 minutes after the phone call. Partly sunny and warm.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5dROvFzc_as9I7lYbxWetsXVKqijwLYcoApvKNjpO2hBQZwS2aUSTfbt49mDShBrZogxws-IEjUk1YwFpyJWMc0gNhDOOz8xUC8LJgQ_4ezHSNMykuIUiDfkjhyphenhyphenGDKiklQKBwdTokUA/s1600/P1060262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kca="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5dROvFzc_as9I7lYbxWetsXVKqijwLYcoApvKNjpO2hBQZwS2aUSTfbt49mDShBrZogxws-IEjUk1YwFpyJWMc0gNhDOOz8xUC8LJgQ_4ezHSNMykuIUiDfkjhyphenhyphenGDKiklQKBwdTokUA/s320/P1060262.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">more "awful" and dangerous weather as we approach Camp One</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Back in Huaraz, Jeff and Arnaud returned to Enrique Expeditions and had a long conversation with Enrique and later, the guides themselves. It turns out that the guiding scene in Huaraz is a bit of a mafia, with only one guiding agency in Huaraz, Casa de Guias, licensed to operate in Huascarán National Park. Thus, all guides are hired out through Casa de Guias, and as such are semi-autonomous and bounce from agency to agency based on demand. Further, we learned that Darwin Hijodeputa and Manuel Maricón were going to earn the same amount of money whether the trip was 6 days (as planned) or four (as it turned out to be). Adding this all up, it was clear that the guides had never had any intention of reaching the summit, and sabotaged our trip. Bastards. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">We provided ample evidence of their lies and cowardice. Enrique was fair and understanding and found himself in a difficult situation. In the end, we were returned half of our investment ($250 each), and he deducted several days of pay from the guides, which we applauded. </div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-13190778139458819722011-09-28T14:13:00.001-10:002011-09-29T14:50:59.853-10:00Segment 43: Cajamarca, Peru to Huaraz, Peru (August 22 - September 8, 2011)<div style="text-align: center;">From Cajamarca we headed south, aiming for Huaraz, all through the cordillera (high mountains), on a series of roads and routes of varying surfaces and degrees of adventure:<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq7hjRips8_CfkxceoeWu-ZcfzXdbbQt2BDrvUxLQ86uMrDSaHOirbtZZJvBXsbIk8UaaggqGLdfn1Km6eCaxkQuG8RF9aQFSh_N4F8FiCPA1flqMbhY4Hs9nvOTObW7IxQtTmClSLzg/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq7hjRips8_CfkxceoeWu-ZcfzXdbbQt2BDrvUxLQ86uMrDSaHOirbtZZJvBXsbIk8UaaggqGLdfn1Km6eCaxkQuG8RF9aQFSh_N4F8FiCPA1flqMbhY4Hs9nvOTObW7IxQtTmClSLzg/s320/craigcajahuaraz+001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">check out the pig</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfsBgPtg3RoX1ZeLfwPaaAqMCS1g0S0edV8PiJ8ZkjDDBRXqfGrbESxmRn6A8QmVw0EJEt-HE1yhFVlm4YlkphuH7_F5PZrQ2s-_ck81mfpuFbLJe0M1KATPNFS27H-pCfz33O-KV3sg/s1600/P1050421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfsBgPtg3RoX1ZeLfwPaaAqMCS1g0S0edV8PiJ8ZkjDDBRXqfGrbESxmRn6A8QmVw0EJEt-HE1yhFVlm4YlkphuH7_F5PZrQ2s-_ck81mfpuFbLJe0M1KATPNFS27H-pCfz33O-KV3sg/s400/P1050421.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this first section is paved (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiej5WEphWawqa5EfdLpNb3yRWfZpgJHqzV5T67MyYNn_XrblrI0ILFt0la2_kboI9E9BzHHT6YahxVgRFpfUrryDmDZIhBoIjYvrEPotliyipMJn-s4JEwwo2aMWAAhxtLiZ9piYuNhA/s1600/P1050426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiej5WEphWawqa5EfdLpNb3yRWfZpgJHqzV5T67MyYNn_XrblrI0ILFt0la2_kboI9E9BzHHT6YahxVgRFpfUrryDmDZIhBoIjYvrEPotliyipMJn-s4JEwwo2aMWAAhxtLiZ9piYuNhA/s320/P1050426.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... election propaganda in Peru. To vote, you mark the picture of the party you want, for example, wheat (above), or tower (below). There are many other options as well, ranging from apples to sombreros to trees... (photos by Arnaud de Laveleye)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWPQTUVuwgHK-BoJ9dwk09TJGS2h0hv1DaMphAew-bdwQfox8q9heTJmHOnRmZVqo6yXjVnlgQfrJpr8VH0rGCR8RYPdLVDd6CAH9bgCdihtR2QkdsWPjiGf5riUKWlK0Ym8RZFZXlA/s1600/P1050429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWPQTUVuwgHK-BoJ9dwk09TJGS2h0hv1DaMphAew-bdwQfox8q9heTJmHOnRmZVqo6yXjVnlgQfrJpr8VH0rGCR8RYPdLVDd6CAH9bgCdihtR2QkdsWPjiGf5riUKWlK0Ym8RZFZXlA/s200/P1050429.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC5bNLjfKz2U_BA-M4pVwu5f_vnwWZ0SEGcwjfrJ9-0StSXUv500wCRAeOTHK9Vh-RbFmvNd7Dws9tmznA0U_RQpEwHtuREL0ozD3RWNlzTXJW3tOdmAbRhNdxULa-WVHPkIohIMM4Wg/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC5bNLjfKz2U_BA-M4pVwu5f_vnwWZ0SEGcwjfrJ9-0StSXUv500wCRAeOTHK9Vh-RbFmvNd7Dws9tmznA0U_RQpEwHtuREL0ozD3RWNlzTXJW3tOdmAbRhNdxULa-WVHPkIohIMM4Wg/s320/craigcajahuaraz+012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvG5zrxKGl6SVPtm8ZDZY40dUk7DhTrWDJL9elUwztMQ7UENOLQnlpynm0C5eXv3Pc7824WRsVR8grqSqKAYnEJhOHUgIqTg3psDTDgLKRohcMUFw1z8uQr3wX1p_Z2-YRei6rqq2PPA/s1600/P1050444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvG5zrxKGl6SVPtm8ZDZY40dUk7DhTrWDJL9elUwztMQ7UENOLQnlpynm0C5eXv3Pc7824WRsVR8grqSqKAYnEJhOHUgIqTg3psDTDgLKRohcMUFw1z8uQr3wX1p_Z2-YRei6rqq2PPA/s400/P1050444.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">great paved descent (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI8zOeJDRhyphenhyphenJf1lWe4avAxfJLyrbh8dS_JNUIAqLMOj6FMDbE94FxvJeRORTOYCp5fi8toke4fERlwbAvBKymlkrKLJ-L7NhtI8kVd5MxODJwPvYp6BbPiMmRog40dw8jytkUv0q8r_A/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI8zOeJDRhyphenhyphenJf1lWe4avAxfJLyrbh8dS_JNUIAqLMOj6FMDbE94FxvJeRORTOYCp5fi8toke4fERlwbAvBKymlkrKLJ-L7NhtI8kVd5MxODJwPvYp6BbPiMmRog40dw8jytkUv0q8r_A/s320/craigcajahuaraz+018.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFgOHbNJEQXFLS6_E7QdEmxrLllQE6gXkrgFuk3xGQE6HnDHzPgNMbv5mOKyW5fiJ4Lh8Ddis_i_jMGgD3oCSShbeafV-8xCp-owzPKzVqQdZTQlTKplZmpzEeQudw9TDq0DKV7-mWzA/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="165" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFgOHbNJEQXFLS6_E7QdEmxrLllQE6gXkrgFuk3xGQE6HnDHzPgNMbv5mOKyW5fiJ4Lh8Ddis_i_jMGgD3oCSShbeafV-8xCp-owzPKzVqQdZTQlTKplZmpzEeQudw9TDq0DKV7-mWzA/s320/craigcajahuaraz+025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... scenes from market day in Cajabamba...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMMhvvYvWINmJPkS0P4G95CtFqXE-Fex2zpGrbymvzSr1l9mIMe3kyknmPEoZ3n3xn_3m1yZ_Qz-AP8RJs7XTlcXcq2EgZ-2UTozCgmEF2iRmdvgTzeRDnZzUHQf_Dtt_GUERGpoTtA/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMMhvvYvWINmJPkS0P4G95CtFqXE-Fex2zpGrbymvzSr1l9mIMe3kyknmPEoZ3n3xn_3m1yZ_Qz-AP8RJs7XTlcXcq2EgZ-2UTozCgmEF2iRmdvgTzeRDnZzUHQf_Dtt_GUERGpoTtA/s320/craigcajahuaraz+028.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFHD1PdffNQ8equh_w0yq0dpP9Vy2-MAzHmlVGlXjcCzJ8Brh_3AFzIOoFkq9V3L6OUdRjoFPUHcVdz1Pm4QCGKhE4snPeZPqAsS4Jt3tsODetoYju7_v64_l9OvjXc41r7Z5Gyw8GXQ/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFHD1PdffNQ8equh_w0yq0dpP9Vy2-MAzHmlVGlXjcCzJ8Brh_3AFzIOoFkq9V3L6OUdRjoFPUHcVdz1Pm4QCGKhE4snPeZPqAsS4Jt3tsODetoYju7_v64_l9OvjXc41r7Z5Gyw8GXQ/s320/craigcajahuaraz+029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkR669AxIIzs5ISjCWc6bvm094-rxUZQ4OQCBX55QsMD4DtvCgktIbFTpvTyB6r_wEogY32e6m8fxfPYWiSiAFN-eBjCmwLWmVKZ04TRdAmc_lrj3RG8HbEwMnGfMhSadMt8cjYEvEtQ/s1600/P1050460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkR669AxIIzs5ISjCWc6bvm094-rxUZQ4OQCBX55QsMD4DtvCgktIbFTpvTyB6r_wEogY32e6m8fxfPYWiSiAFN-eBjCmwLWmVKZ04TRdAmc_lrj3RG8HbEwMnGfMhSadMt8cjYEvEtQ/s320/P1050460.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">mototaxi stand in Cajabamba (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij6tIikt3u5etjDWpcpjMPPY81Zpe4PsmwaFFOqW0rv6fzAg9sJOVDrxvHwjxVexKHyeJVGCpv7XRb-vRoROQp55hyv1JiTirztCNj8dJL2RwWvATB-hDeyty4hyphenhyphenkVwVeX4XhSy8logg/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij6tIikt3u5etjDWpcpjMPPY81Zpe4PsmwaFFOqW0rv6fzAg9sJOVDrxvHwjxVexKHyeJVGCpv7XRb-vRoROQp55hyv1JiTirztCNj8dJL2RwWvATB-hDeyty4hyphenhyphenkVwVeX4XhSy8logg/s320/craigcajahuaraz+031.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">local dwelling on outskirts of Cajabamba</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_K2T3OwYVyA94Ag79EOJqS0OkBQxmaqWKYcAgmy6J5bCnGNKkeGanX3CuCpR3XGU4s49S9vMzHf6Tzys7p2XcPQ0aPdZ1e4L9mOMXe8bykWqaNUpqjaQGlDA6h8TPQUJS8xU-WnwRmg/s1600/P1050469.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_K2T3OwYVyA94Ag79EOJqS0OkBQxmaqWKYcAgmy6J5bCnGNKkeGanX3CuCpR3XGU4s49S9vMzHf6Tzys7p2XcPQ0aPdZ1e4L9mOMXe8bykWqaNUpqjaQGlDA6h8TPQUJS8xU-WnwRmg/s320/P1050469.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">roof tile factory -roadside- between Cajabamba and Huamachuco (photo: Arnaud de L.)<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEvH_JxNSXiWNBAQQDGtQgX4dJxmYL40wGSU1W6InaNSNIp3v4SYbTcUc6STS23sGvPOuajRCu05EgqKwSUObPDL9SP7o7hjZzkXNNJbeRPWAHS9KlSKi5Lo8mmzLqzb7-Lo9tNftpwQ/s1600/P1050478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEvH_JxNSXiWNBAQQDGtQgX4dJxmYL40wGSU1W6InaNSNIp3v4SYbTcUc6STS23sGvPOuajRCu05EgqKwSUObPDL9SP7o7hjZzkXNNJbeRPWAHS9KlSKi5Lo8mmzLqzb7-Lo9tNftpwQ/s320/P1050478.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">growing wheat (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9sJWz42S-dSWODawqZ8fVSWRuYSD_XTlJA2hyphenhyphenH-EQE3ppF-EOuuM093dBcwb5rXTmteZdaBuB_tWPJTAsP3mVMBBoNrt0Wm9fsZVbnTNgSYYmqdbZMdu32i6ZWV1K4QCaMC3qrDX2uQ/s1600/P1050498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9sJWz42S-dSWODawqZ8fVSWRuYSD_XTlJA2hyphenhyphenH-EQE3ppF-EOuuM093dBcwb5rXTmteZdaBuB_tWPJTAsP3mVMBBoNrt0Wm9fsZVbnTNgSYYmqdbZMdu32i6ZWV1K4QCaMC3qrDX2uQ/s400/P1050498.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the scene on the way to Huamachuco (photos: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAclYnDYPJ4fKD9fhzvI4OZ1XuZg54jmMh1izuv6v_zFSWhFWYyeVY1BFlyBDgHozww_-abZXFm7ThaYgYqXpmH_90aV-IQpg4x1XRQ0IpdplUWhlKDCbRJ9Ln7BlQBEvviVAC5913Q/s1600/P1050508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAclYnDYPJ4fKD9fhzvI4OZ1XuZg54jmMh1izuv6v_zFSWhFWYyeVY1BFlyBDgHozww_-abZXFm7ThaYgYqXpmH_90aV-IQpg4x1XRQ0IpdplUWhlKDCbRJ9Ln7BlQBEvviVAC5913Q/s320/P1050508.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigCH922g5optg_MsAqclmOu3XlAxeKqwPmspheSFH0q8F4vuCTd2fxzUPK2oZBq-GxKlK7Cf_WgYfDtk6IqSoi2QJAHLV7LLCAf903wGSyCo9OJiHmtj-vZhF9MOApp4dCjtg7vNXQqA/s1600/P1050514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigCH922g5optg_MsAqclmOu3XlAxeKqwPmspheSFH0q8F4vuCTd2fxzUPK2oZBq-GxKlK7Cf_WgYfDtk6IqSoi2QJAHLV7LLCAf903wGSyCo9OJiHmtj-vZhF9MOApp4dCjtg7vNXQqA/s400/P1050514.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Laguna Sausacocha near Huamachuco, famous for its trout fishery (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Just after Huamachuco, we began an epic dirt-road adventure that would take us nearly to Caraz in the White Mountains. The first segment began by heading towards the San Simón gold mine.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhog4ys2YRRDM3xVdrxVMFm8dYORGPm4IysxHMt1cwVzvhvlvM8b28x02m_07t1x5icuLdGqv2G0RKRSAiUjm6g-mfW3gkOUkDHDgV56zdZzTFXHbfqADCFoA1UdI7190xCgytgUltQBg/s1600/P1050557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhog4ys2YRRDM3xVdrxVMFm8dYORGPm4IysxHMt1cwVzvhvlvM8b28x02m_07t1x5icuLdGqv2G0RKRSAiUjm6g-mfW3gkOUkDHDgV56zdZzTFXHbfqADCFoA1UdI7190xCgytgUltQBg/s200/P1050557.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">cemetary near the San Simón gold mine (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiTXqKDb8r6ZCZdXmdG7EQjl1Xl_3ZNOt2LYhqV-hbg62Nrrnp6YeqhPtwfW_Gm7V9Woz5a7qKSBdfH_7tuBgtyYwutgXKFfYoi6GPoqUpxSYE1Tyr6BG7UBugNzHks6OxUSt1rgDyEA/s1600/P1050583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiTXqKDb8r6ZCZdXmdG7EQjl1Xl_3ZNOt2LYhqV-hbg62Nrrnp6YeqhPtwfW_Gm7V9Woz5a7qKSBdfH_7tuBgtyYwutgXKFfYoi6GPoqUpxSYE1Tyr6BG7UBugNzHks6OxUSt1rgDyEA/s320/P1050583.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">little traffic, aside from the dust-hurling trucks passing now and then (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSoeI2whxAu-17cb7lmLPvxSu0kkiR7Q8zatwBOz4alVeYADOVhVlrC23XGU4bn7KxqpMhtf9UDdAJHkJ1HmFxitCSUJ2apdKu1Dm8YPMc6UdAPQmJXnM6U_8q5t4pQ-NxwtGfF7-Yg/s1600/P1050567.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJSoeI2whxAu-17cb7lmLPvxSu0kkiR7Q8zatwBOz4alVeYADOVhVlrC23XGU4bn7KxqpMhtf9UDdAJHkJ1HmFxitCSUJ2apdKu1Dm8YPMc6UdAPQmJXnM6U_8q5t4pQ-NxwtGfF7-Yg/s400/P1050567.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">long climb between the gold mines of San Simón and Comarsa (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAFHlLhqQd0ZvgtlF6LzG-Z5DMoAgfyvlGpXd42KQoyYIVjZZtkXcH-s67qrNOWbasI-doZt2xW0yUKYMwezSsC3pfXCwy2QrjkZ3ZYHXF7zptPoGaZkRvTfbCmQXaMTjZEFYwd4EeFg/s1600/P1050582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAFHlLhqQd0ZvgtlF6LzG-Z5DMoAgfyvlGpXd42KQoyYIVjZZtkXcH-s67qrNOWbasI-doZt2xW0yUKYMwezSsC3pfXCwy2QrjkZ3ZYHXF7zptPoGaZkRvTfbCmQXaMTjZEFYwd4EeFg/s320/P1050582.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">vicuña at the high point at 4000m (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ue_2_OJIefrdy607cAzJn6R-w2ywyJYfowOzK_SN1r8L-Vdh0eq7svQuxG9xUDKzhHwYkI5SYswbe06cOLTmZ2D_brO2suw7_UbfwNKg9fPr1laZ6qXFK1haNhh3LerrwDO2QdBMLA/s1600/P1050587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ue_2_OJIefrdy607cAzJn6R-w2ywyJYfowOzK_SN1r8L-Vdh0eq7svQuxG9xUDKzhHwYkI5SYswbe06cOLTmZ2D_brO2suw7_UbfwNKg9fPr1laZ6qXFK1haNhh3LerrwDO2QdBMLA/s320/P1050587.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">watch out for vicuñas and humans (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-e_78oe4gO2c25vQdZF13lmtB5CwQ_9AEsETRuV5MRCacfNgIooV3smIgrV6TxbfUC-V5OK3moAwv6uNQ2ODo-jlLLvtGlDS1LFIgXIB-1k5vKGLgHYNpTTMX32H-zNPLPDpYsGsq-w/s1600/P1050605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-e_78oe4gO2c25vQdZF13lmtB5CwQ_9AEsETRuV5MRCacfNgIooV3smIgrV6TxbfUC-V5OK3moAwv6uNQ2ODo-jlLLvtGlDS1LFIgXIB-1k5vKGLgHYNpTTMX32H-zNPLPDpYsGsq-w/s400/P1050605.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">descending towards Comarsa (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJx8bYyvm05Uyb_TJ1YeXDbtO-vukUUptVuMFlTMlLBCaHlWGkaMFikbJNeikpVTGIUGx5R4OpHDIsTHcHsQSzVMdoh1t05fXSf3okSu9PWBVEUR5JKDeKVvhJBHOAYXiC0YS79xTHg/s1600/P1050615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJx8bYyvm05Uyb_TJ1YeXDbtO-vukUUptVuMFlTMlLBCaHlWGkaMFikbJNeikpVTGIUGx5R4OpHDIsTHcHsQSzVMdoh1t05fXSf3okSu9PWBVEUR5JKDeKVvhJBHOAYXiC0YS79xTHg/s320/P1050615.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the massive Peruvian-owned Comarsa gold mine (photos: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3qSJHKUu5bxr-UBIpRy3L06UmEJGugD9YO3lN8w7iD8A9vL5EVTSKSRsVWcawHdOLqRhuCsjTATZ7qJSh8O5tKdtIyZNJLn0Z4ozr_VEsVqDD6LGuT8ApMkD-bzyC535TBoCsGFGrrQ/s1600/P1050618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3qSJHKUu5bxr-UBIpRy3L06UmEJGugD9YO3lN8w7iD8A9vL5EVTSKSRsVWcawHdOLqRhuCsjTATZ7qJSh8O5tKdtIyZNJLn0Z4ozr_VEsVqDD6LGuT8ApMkD-bzyC535TBoCsGFGrrQ/s400/P1050618.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWgLZvmrX5CaMUly8DOAOeEd_G9kA8VPoLsDWQ6tpM83z8o3M9r-fucRnQ9Nn8ImJV_titIcsE0oGmEuFvxAvbcZYJr2s0gnahD9wJsnD_P-URpDSjv1_zKR_9m18_MM6Rp4jnWjoTww/s1600/P1050638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWgLZvmrX5CaMUly8DOAOeEd_G9kA8VPoLsDWQ6tpM83z8o3M9r-fucRnQ9Nn8ImJV_titIcsE0oGmEuFvxAvbcZYJr2s0gnahD9wJsnD_P-URpDSjv1_zKR_9m18_MM6Rp4jnWjoTww/s200/P1050638.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiD1T5KJi6pWsQDT4AQLaB5NHs_kxJG731ZVh1LYMxBubok85Vv3JN6laa3q3Gs2LBodqxJR1YYrkC5nGoe533fNU2caMeHD2QwMVQzj-isMzOENnHBJFT5U-NDiQ0FHZB0_m6tUGcZw/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiD1T5KJi6pWsQDT4AQLaB5NHs_kxJG731ZVh1LYMxBubok85Vv3JN6laa3q3Gs2LBodqxJR1YYrkC5nGoe533fNU2caMeHD2QwMVQzj-isMzOENnHBJFT5U-NDiQ0FHZB0_m6tUGcZw/s320/craigcajahuaraz+050.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">amazing backcountry roads</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNhsKGfg3S6qUoisQG-64CmO-921u2WE66OHh5dVnnhSkucLgPziL-6BwuVg1xWh9ENsYiZmpvIfuLecjs14-VYwwhGU1ej54RKpE-Dm7KTw17Si4f3U5D4NefaWm1aYNLFnqHA7_n2A/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNhsKGfg3S6qUoisQG-64CmO-921u2WE66OHh5dVnnhSkucLgPziL-6BwuVg1xWh9ENsYiZmpvIfuLecjs14-VYwwhGU1ej54RKpE-Dm7KTw17Si4f3U5D4NefaWm1aYNLFnqHA7_n2A/s200/craigcajahuaraz+057.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the small remote town of Tulpo</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3d_1IFqlYrJO47c5BAt4oa-8Xr3jCP2UA0oH9kQrIEAwWy6zFrIE6LFLMhKzLiAWTeiet0VbCpiQas8ZDZrR2ctn2q8Ia7XiJDerveI1W9T6wL98Jx_DYHr6UT5HuuMgNGzVLWG6UA/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3d_1IFqlYrJO47c5BAt4oa-8Xr3jCP2UA0oH9kQrIEAwWy6zFrIE6LFLMhKzLiAWTeiet0VbCpiQas8ZDZrR2ctn2q8Ia7XiJDerveI1W9T6wL98Jx_DYHr6UT5HuuMgNGzVLWG6UA/s320/craigcajahuaraz+059.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">between Tulpo and Mollepata, great mountain-and-canyon landscapes...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy93Jeo6Zs6jZBjZAbYf00-ubq_QrdLlVoDB2UAlBHM5UrTrxY6U8EHGkQajlOdKVo2hBgSQg3s3DBz2YBtBAMJSXJ2w8flMaFi5mJWMzLrx07njpS7-iTZsL366Rwg9ny_AUQWAI-gw/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy93Jeo6Zs6jZBjZAbYf00-ubq_QrdLlVoDB2UAlBHM5UrTrxY6U8EHGkQajlOdKVo2hBgSQg3s3DBz2YBtBAMJSXJ2w8flMaFi5mJWMzLrx07njpS7-iTZsL366Rwg9ny_AUQWAI-gw/s200/craigcajahuaraz+065.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... and campesino lifestyle...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-l-O7pFr-pAneHReRBEpgoXB8lmLRx8Ta0yPiKKVjt9doFJ6_AS-QuKq1wURx5pIgbY5isB2ih2ORNWivM4EGA-wZ0ETiK0haztu08eWFFqQVbSARuzYhHe615TzvFZ8HnGpmQsN4w/s1600/P1050696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-l-O7pFr-pAneHReRBEpgoXB8lmLRx8Ta0yPiKKVjt9doFJ6_AS-QuKq1wURx5pIgbY5isB2ih2ORNWivM4EGA-wZ0ETiK0haztu08eWFFqQVbSARuzYhHe615TzvFZ8HnGpmQsN4w/s400/P1050696.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Mollepata perched high above the Tablachaca River canyon (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQc5i_RcNko-SUtPVwD4_Zy6m1ZdgFVbo_QgwFzfa0O5PN_LYqLQKUfoWzOAzoRtDWoixaLkbE8FU0exQC_QvoYsTmk8DjLvaZql3S14cm9skFw35ZaQHfmjWM5YjJHaeGfSZFzTBL4Q/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQc5i_RcNko-SUtPVwD4_Zy6m1ZdgFVbo_QgwFzfa0O5PN_LYqLQKUfoWzOAzoRtDWoixaLkbE8FU0exQC_QvoYsTmk8DjLvaZql3S14cm9skFw35ZaQHfmjWM5YjJHaeGfSZFzTBL4Q/s200/craigcajahuaraz+066.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFl_pnkDzIvhRLEtTYQCaY9Y9kdKbRdWmJ5oSLXbUPL95g5Gw4JD3InSS6v_mALS1pCcX-4XloQyb8nX53l2zovEd8mm0olBxzWgn78usj9wmy5TmQEwkw9wLqm2GLtPmAwpGtYAo_A/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinFl_pnkDzIvhRLEtTYQCaY9Y9kdKbRdWmJ5oSLXbUPL95g5Gw4JD3InSS6v_mALS1pCcX-4XloQyb8nX53l2zovEd8mm0olBxzWgn78usj9wmy5TmQEwkw9wLqm2GLtPmAwpGtYAo_A/s320/craigcajahuaraz+071.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Sonja chatting with a friendly local woman in Mollepata</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2i45YvWHepAIqqzRhkaGRm_1Ivq8OwlpKTMzbnVNO25RqDLtynPPH_dj6E8_sNwaQ9RsszOetkPCJcufY-iS90IEw78khfkgltaXnu4Yr62skKWcCirzLV8eeKzTbBRoqHe6T_VJTpA/s1600/P1050698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2i45YvWHepAIqqzRhkaGRm_1Ivq8OwlpKTMzbnVNO25RqDLtynPPH_dj6E8_sNwaQ9RsszOetkPCJcufY-iS90IEw78khfkgltaXnu4Yr62skKWcCirzLV8eeKzTbBRoqHe6T_VJTpA/s200/P1050698.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Mollepata houses a fantastic pre-Incan mummy collection. This one even has an erection (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rz9xfRpZBJKF8U3W2hjAH7VcUI6tstZASsDLUSc9y6rrodjqLv01jmL3stko0hyphenhyphenU9e_oVBVFKse-vA6YBMljpR2JuT96AcnXbNVPFnTVbNY5ZXzG4kunHb4UuHelNJ-pOGIZ1A7iBw/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_rz9xfRpZBJKF8U3W2hjAH7VcUI6tstZASsDLUSc9y6rrodjqLv01jmL3stko0hyphenhyphenU9e_oVBVFKse-vA6YBMljpR2JuT96AcnXbNVPFnTVbNY5ZXzG4kunHb4UuHelNJ-pOGIZ1A7iBw/s400/craigcajahuaraz+073.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... the beyond-words, hair-raising descent from Mollepata down into the Tablachaca River canyon.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmwkY0ZdTDxnA2qo0C5RPAu7dF8y3RZF40SLJRprK89kl-Z9hV7FaGXb6jx2tqJaQvGerzdnQngZ7aDGaHEypirwymRP-csiWPNhxYRbyO8v9qRSCik2GjjsIIxHE3epFvjglB2rBlw/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsmwkY0ZdTDxnA2qo0C5RPAu7dF8y3RZF40SLJRprK89kl-Z9hV7FaGXb6jx2tqJaQvGerzdnQngZ7aDGaHEypirwymRP-csiWPNhxYRbyO8v9qRSCik2GjjsIIxHE3epFvjglB2rBlw/s400/craigcajahuaraz+077.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the crazy almost-illogical road that climbs out of the Tablachaca canyon towards Pallasca 1500m above. Luckily, we averted this climb by finding an old road that parallels the Tablachaca River, descending softly on this fantastic no-traffic road that no one seems to know about... we heard of it from a local truck driver near the San Simón mine. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6yUxZTetxWFutgaqWPPpTrp8q7x0A4vtF99xPfVIEqkoPDR5wjWj5DY72SAQoq9hMxwIuPK8PlcCK9vp_L8-XrTI53IwTBTjtLnMENPfXbV9olDQlCo3m2u2VyfAjtpLjveTZ285nDw/s1600/P1050724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6yUxZTetxWFutgaqWPPpTrp8q7x0A4vtF99xPfVIEqkoPDR5wjWj5DY72SAQoq9hMxwIuPK8PlcCK9vp_L8-XrTI53IwTBTjtLnMENPfXbV9olDQlCo3m2u2VyfAjtpLjveTZ285nDw/s400/P1050724.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this was to be a dream road: no traffic, varying surfaces, insane scenery, fun riding, high adventure. (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSOt6JVjtC1WxnQdt_lSBDCyVnxbqAmr2vQGscXskc85ZmLdO9wjYElNR6D6pwo6zHo4lwSmPBt6ESXJYZNGv3Bqqv8QfhKRUb3q57HyFDcc-K9msoH70VB48TL8efRS7UOHHr0ZgmQ/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSOt6JVjtC1WxnQdt_lSBDCyVnxbqAmr2vQGscXskc85ZmLdO9wjYElNR6D6pwo6zHo4lwSmPBt6ESXJYZNGv3Bqqv8QfhKRUb3q57HyFDcc-K9msoH70VB48TL8efRS7UOHHr0ZgmQ/s320/craigcajahuaraz+080.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2DmpNUUTOKtmTK7O9QM3PkqLlRJcEqQtUaZ0PMew52d32bcBzOrefEoH3Hnv5h9cNXG0PzPMoIge3xyoP-H2Suigcvu-zQTCgN5kPBxCjovtMWZkCkEFecfKko81YFPLmr5uoEX-bZA/s1600/P1050751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2DmpNUUTOKtmTK7O9QM3PkqLlRJcEqQtUaZ0PMew52d32bcBzOrefEoH3Hnv5h9cNXG0PzPMoIge3xyoP-H2Suigcvu-zQTCgN5kPBxCjovtMWZkCkEFecfKko81YFPLmr5uoEX-bZA/s400/P1050751.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaP8cpr-_4kJPfNQDyT0ROU4v2RDN6T957-Sw8lWdbE-ayx5VD7sAfF7vLd3-yWx3qZ76HlFxH3WqraE02hdZ200U-XRccfvZT_qZtHBItXw2whlk5_-WDtHJLJb7QzrVIOMI6xc3WcA/s1600/P1050765.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaP8cpr-_4kJPfNQDyT0ROU4v2RDN6T957-Sw8lWdbE-ayx5VD7sAfF7vLd3-yWx3qZ76HlFxH3WqraE02hdZ200U-XRccfvZT_qZtHBItXw2whlk5_-WDtHJLJb7QzrVIOMI6xc3WcA/s320/P1050765.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... there was only one catch: two river fords. Which probably scares most cyclists away. However, we found the water level low enough to make them easy crossings... (photos: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuM42k_ZNf78_cPxNjGNW4rNmeklz9Jn2CgMZjlk75LCLjiDbaPfL6gMI7u_6qn72VxgLlWRVZYBTtRNCXkPnX0EV0MdE9-2wUOzE4m3KX9z0nWW5-3Lr29tPQSawyIwixU7lX81vAyw/s1600/P1050767.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuM42k_ZNf78_cPxNjGNW4rNmeklz9Jn2CgMZjlk75LCLjiDbaPfL6gMI7u_6qn72VxgLlWRVZYBTtRNCXkPnX0EV0MdE9-2wUOzE4m3KX9z0nWW5-3Lr29tPQSawyIwixU7lX81vAyw/s320/P1050767.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the first crossing </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0LgkjgvtmDiH93ztsh1bxD-77xyddWwKLfDvZ5piWi5cdcp_WwniVvs5q39alGk8fK2D4iMsYcWu_ZnBmjkApzE8_pCp_iorg5682PBiXYPb91C6tEB5pQHTHm_B2T4QR8iNBo1NCVA/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0LgkjgvtmDiH93ztsh1bxD-77xyddWwKLfDvZ5piWi5cdcp_WwniVvs5q39alGk8fK2D4iMsYcWu_ZnBmjkApzE8_pCp_iorg5682PBiXYPb91C6tEB5pQHTHm_B2T4QR8iNBo1NCVA/s320/craigcajahuaraz+091.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX4yDM55GE7ke1oUZWXOegLnxF-vc5wtWfwzuTMCZ4-F0V3-P8i2kLqLmgwQTpJrRX3h3y0CU9Yc2HMRTat943Qx4QKXuPIGtBxWXjD0F8dazczy-59anr8WO62JDtqLOrlg6_J9b4ng/s1600/P1050778.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX4yDM55GE7ke1oUZWXOegLnxF-vc5wtWfwzuTMCZ4-F0V3-P8i2kLqLmgwQTpJrRX3h3y0CU9Yc2HMRTat943Qx4QKXuPIGtBxWXjD0F8dazczy-59anr8WO62JDtqLOrlg6_J9b4ng/s320/P1050778.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the second crossing. this time on a narrow bridge constructed by local gold panners. (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKI0XV3SVQ301jbgCdL3s3YmFTCX6TyXJa1QpiI09nJRq3JxqmCOqCjNvpzPCBi4DgyCxVOBh6MtWrsw5w5tQMbdmQ1xq7RmUXz_WkWABYbjpg9m0ZdIsyNhm4htA9A9Lz4PQZNFlhzA/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+099.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKI0XV3SVQ301jbgCdL3s3YmFTCX6TyXJa1QpiI09nJRq3JxqmCOqCjNvpzPCBi4DgyCxVOBh6MtWrsw5w5tQMbdmQ1xq7RmUXz_WkWABYbjpg9m0ZdIsyNhm4htA9A9Lz4PQZNFlhzA/s320/craigcajahuaraz+099.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">gold panners' seasonal homes along the river</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxlsHvL6lzxqNIxnAO5I8eo4Bg-wLEmJlIEQYXZGPZO7zGrqTbs2dznj0ndvrguTYqujMq_l4_nPmvWIqt6FuvhY-9TWJAT2acJsMUxKkCrOgUSVSoBD5b9JjNj1fqXcPvXzj4QcWyiQ/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxlsHvL6lzxqNIxnAO5I8eo4Bg-wLEmJlIEQYXZGPZO7zGrqTbs2dznj0ndvrguTYqujMq_l4_nPmvWIqt6FuvhY-9TWJAT2acJsMUxKkCrOgUSVSoBD5b9JjNj1fqXcPvXzj4QcWyiQ/s320/craigcajahuaraz+100.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...continuing downstream, the canyon became even larger and more spectacular...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhATNJ9kElUwQKBP8Cty0czm02q7kaCHeXPpPH48TZcrKZS8iIqJHeTw9Lb4x9nyfbITsMCuTQMsWOWhyphenhyphens92HWAcdXyjLW5ymL5tMqC7cD3CxiBGCz6ZDs2p22Gc6gz5rNanderUuz66A/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhATNJ9kElUwQKBP8Cty0czm02q7kaCHeXPpPH48TZcrKZS8iIqJHeTw9Lb4x9nyfbITsMCuTQMsWOWhyphenhyphens92HWAcdXyjLW5ymL5tMqC7cD3CxiBGCz6ZDs2p22Gc6gz5rNanderUuz66A/s400/craigcajahuaraz+103.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj98wtuCDoWuWeAYvJj6EkLzThS1LK8rNwzGPkAXqhDOmWskLtIrVCEceixpmkpRzl04uZuiRFube8pZu53DnqJnUuP2NlMJinm1KZR1Sxkeb3z6X20a3BVu7XM5RHCHI2G1KHz4L-ycA/s1600/P1050790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj98wtuCDoWuWeAYvJj6EkLzThS1LK8rNwzGPkAXqhDOmWskLtIrVCEceixpmkpRzl04uZuiRFube8pZu53DnqJnUuP2NlMJinm1KZR1Sxkeb3z6X20a3BVu7XM5RHCHI2G1KHz4L-ycA/s400/P1050790.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In the end, we decided that this (Tablachaca River Road) was our FAVORITE ROAD EVER. No small feat, all things considered. (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1k2D5M7bFNcz6BZXGM3qpTTe_sXkMD2p0ZqYgEUYP5NoGzrYLLoA3tHlKK9gxsf3QpnvYKfhqxZULYNQXfsgKpfwZhEnh4ZrdqJuOaGAuYmQP4hPB0eTmOGw3GpsRK9keyMTZs8sbQ/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1k2D5M7bFNcz6BZXGM3qpTTe_sXkMD2p0ZqYgEUYP5NoGzrYLLoA3tHlKK9gxsf3QpnvYKfhqxZULYNQXfsgKpfwZhEnh4ZrdqJuOaGAuYmQP4hPB0eTmOGw3GpsRK9keyMTZs8sbQ/s320/craigcajahuaraz+111.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... seemingly never-ending heaven-like cruising...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOoplVOGT_iIDWZCUr2LOI-P0VVYbD5qb1X_Ml2bfR68XG5vbSOeIN6kaOtjWSQDHqF0cyUiwvtorvF9sHDfbGORJfWQ058d8P4w9WZuqQ-1WXNSC_t878jkkxz2xo3xepZ0xLemNu3A/s1600/P1050820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOoplVOGT_iIDWZCUr2LOI-P0VVYbD5qb1X_Ml2bfR68XG5vbSOeIN6kaOtjWSQDHqF0cyUiwvtorvF9sHDfbGORJfWQ058d8P4w9WZuqQ-1WXNSC_t878jkkxz2xo3xepZ0xLemNu3A/s320/P1050820.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW7AANLaWp7BD_GtCi9Yo3lnFT8yHw-HXS8pDg-5N1_HyM7pfPCiYiqnCfA-jgYiEACi5iGC74YfY_caJW7iVnhbKZ8Xm_gQl-JwAcybDcI8_yhtOnMkwqb32bxYMl9x_dKpuiITio8Q/s1600/P1050843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW7AANLaWp7BD_GtCi9Yo3lnFT8yHw-HXS8pDg-5N1_HyM7pfPCiYiqnCfA-jgYiEACi5iGC74YfY_caJW7iVnhbKZ8Xm_gQl-JwAcybDcI8_yhtOnMkwqb32bxYMl9x_dKpuiITio8Q/s400/P1050843.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">after 60km or so, it turned to pavement, on the way towards searing-hot Chuquicara at only 600m above sea level</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqz9CfLbwlDAHbTJcrQGXnAlbfUKIjE0tc1J8nYXb9LTIbOQMLJTFly8TQIkPPqANbr_QMOyJ3uO4X4cpq9mz69eXYzoPGOTd163fShfYT9nyky_tBDJFE1bXMZ5WKzEThNrdP6Ogbg/s1600/P1050868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqz9CfLbwlDAHbTJcrQGXnAlbfUKIjE0tc1J8nYXb9LTIbOQMLJTFly8TQIkPPqANbr_QMOyJ3uO4X4cpq9mz69eXYzoPGOTd163fShfYT9nyky_tBDJFE1bXMZ5WKzEThNrdP6Ogbg/s320/P1050868.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... after Chuquicara, we started up another long, dry canyon... this would be a gradual climb of some 90km or so... (photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTo5m35yPENXI7jjH_BQ44FkzUjx7vIoKpT55X1MqAm2bsMDX19cT0SwfxiOhRjePZwbrUyFqEqPmVamNTZawvitpWazc7vJL5A5VlPtlP3UT5e40sgacXyD5Inw8DsQ7or8tB_kCDHA/s1600/P1050923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTo5m35yPENXI7jjH_BQ44FkzUjx7vIoKpT55X1MqAm2bsMDX19cT0SwfxiOhRjePZwbrUyFqEqPmVamNTZawvitpWazc7vJL5A5VlPtlP3UT5e40sgacXyD5Inw8DsQ7or8tB_kCDHA/s320/P1050923.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... now in the Cañon del Pato, famous for its 25-plus tunnels in only 13km... (photos: Arnaud de L.)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6C9YwwG1cL8gvjEL7OYMXuwYCxNhG0krJL_GgvrcY4AUn0a7D_oj852PwHPBgFLXID9x8G7-gYFz2M_ZDJkS8OieGhJTmSnxsk6XoO1pWgJzD_-r2d-pXanS_Gh7-DU-PIDmOupCHdA/s1600/P1050918.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6C9YwwG1cL8gvjEL7OYMXuwYCxNhG0krJL_GgvrcY4AUn0a7D_oj852PwHPBgFLXID9x8G7-gYFz2M_ZDJkS8OieGhJTmSnxsk6XoO1pWgJzD_-r2d-pXanS_Gh7-DU-PIDmOupCHdA/s200/P1050918.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">cycling through the longer of these tunnels, the scene was truly surreal: thick gravel road, loose surface, complete darkness, too much bouncing around to make a headlamp useful, narrow lanes, and uphill all the while. Hoping a big truck or a fast vehicle didn't coincide at the same time as us in the tunnel.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0P94FDZEZFXtZ4vBz42tcPdoNg8rZlVMyLGkg-jjvhFd-mIJt-0QTfCAoTaGxjdBJKDy4DqCKcRvy0oz-A7HWswoDrWHTRxLqpOqhs62kurresC2VT79OdBdFBZ8elQ39yl5vJ7SrqA/s1600/P1050932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0P94FDZEZFXtZ4vBz42tcPdoNg8rZlVMyLGkg-jjvhFd-mIJt-0QTfCAoTaGxjdBJKDy4DqCKcRvy0oz-A7HWswoDrWHTRxLqpOqhs62kurresC2VT79OdBdFBZ8elQ39yl5vJ7SrqA/s320/P1050932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the road turned to pavement before Caraz, just after the Cañon del Pato. Having begun in Chuquicara, this climb was to be about 2500m in total, until Huaraz at 3090m.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(photo: Arnaud de L.)</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3k-fh0SICxyPH-BlgInnSduXQywsfu2ZdOwHXgz3-WqxAdYDT22f412ZSnXAyBPjzJ3VMg8tSaDx1s1EvsBKihHNFe_k5TNzNZciOC5hglOCcZ5vizgiSuhMoFzWv67cI73RUMzT1FQ/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3k-fh0SICxyPH-BlgInnSduXQywsfu2ZdOwHXgz3-WqxAdYDT22f412ZSnXAyBPjzJ3VMg8tSaDx1s1EvsBKihHNFe_k5TNzNZciOC5hglOCcZ5vizgiSuhMoFzWv67cI73RUMzT1FQ/s320/craigcajahuaraz+128.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">now in Huaraz, view of Huascarán, highest mountain in Perú at 6768m. From Huaraz on a clear day you can see a large spread of the Cordillera Blanca.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIPhyphenhyphen8j0q34H25JgQDPcDmckzyco_xb-o6OHPLjvFo6tI1QPLcmMpAttqwFrL38rzuc3dBVlMS3hMkSO6oioREvRJxUkEwBQ2DulhisoogKbA-F6rbD7wr_PqO2_peFX-E3Vz6z_uow/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZIPhyphenhyphen8j0q34H25JgQDPcDmckzyco_xb-o6OHPLjvFo6tI1QPLcmMpAttqwFrL38rzuc3dBVlMS3hMkSO6oioREvRJxUkEwBQ2DulhisoogKbA-F6rbD7wr_PqO2_peFX-E3Vz6z_uow/s200/craigcajahuaraz+145.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">found in the Huaraz market, these are beet/carrot drinks that we found for 3 soles a jar, or just over a dollar. We drank MANY of these in Huaraz, replacing lost vitamins from so much climbing and sweating.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbtCn5Pp10aIdzRg8s1zLlBJI5O-kw-1k-yUvj1Q3WA8xfJlEJ6LGWo7icGr4m8vQouAmPtTOmdq9SIPvfAljoArVeod_3ixU8u3ZWzuMj5oY4ZqLM6piUBJNHVdVgjmiqpgeYWKNtLg/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbtCn5Pp10aIdzRg8s1zLlBJI5O-kw-1k-yUvj1Q3WA8xfJlEJ6LGWo7icGr4m8vQouAmPtTOmdq9SIPvfAljoArVeod_3ixU8u3ZWzuMj5oY4ZqLM6piUBJNHVdVgjmiqpgeYWKNtLg/s320/craigcajahuaraz+121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">at Hostel El Tambo in Huaraz, we had a few jam sessions</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYB6W45ObqgFxUv32hiIywFzNw-nWRqiu-kc6Vcl7-eFxAmzDLpPqF3ju_AU-PsftrpaVYnePEC68m_P5b2qtVLa1NDyBJtKEupLWDoMVg18PBUD-9amj52f3G5edR7OqsffvCDFWgDg/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYB6W45ObqgFxUv32hiIywFzNw-nWRqiu-kc6Vcl7-eFxAmzDLpPqF3ju_AU-PsftrpaVYnePEC68m_P5b2qtVLa1NDyBJtKEupLWDoMVg18PBUD-9amj52f3G5edR7OqsffvCDFWgDg/s320/craigcajahuaraz+130.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">dinner party at El Tambo with some friends from Argentina, Catalonia, and Switzerland</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi914PaCUAUqQU8ZKZaRAuwjNhAz2VnW01mV8l-oSH0EWS0MYjxNpMsM_8yU9xao0apEmDW8ZByZvmOgMXiuQTRydHDhqf-6tL68TyNbVbSaMvfzgaK7zmBQh8GuuQ0ET7NCDcaBjf36w/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi914PaCUAUqQU8ZKZaRAuwjNhAz2VnW01mV8l-oSH0EWS0MYjxNpMsM_8yU9xao0apEmDW8ZByZvmOgMXiuQTRydHDhqf-6tL68TyNbVbSaMvfzgaK7zmBQh8GuuQ0ET7NCDcaBjf36w/s320/craigcajahuaraz+135.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Daniel, an Israeli magician, showing Jason some tricks</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQtcYkY8rNj05hjdF5_ZdQJHf6KnreGWfRbgrYSoncLHwBVvAB-3XsGmdX9IIfjZZFwnx6cALX3RSIR8fm_jKsjta0aonhzllbUcwUXns-I6XHwAJJIijUhgQ_8Gc5vA385yKq1gEzfA/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQtcYkY8rNj05hjdF5_ZdQJHf6KnreGWfRbgrYSoncLHwBVvAB-3XsGmdX9IIfjZZFwnx6cALX3RSIR8fm_jKsjta0aonhzllbUcwUXns-I6XHwAJJIijUhgQ_8Gc5vA385yKq1gEzfA/s320/craigcajahuaraz+140.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">gory scenes from the Huaraz market. Goats' heads.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIPM4Q6iigAgXNmjcp7YxMlaZ4JX3gcAqcUVY8vGVNHSclQhyS51vcaS_6Hf8M8ur7_UqjBAXiS53Ah1pgX4gdus5MWH0YaKAPNg0RTQakVpg0bsrk51-qwnVeBnv5TavcAEdxnRL1w/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIPM4Q6iigAgXNmjcp7YxMlaZ4JX3gcAqcUVY8vGVNHSclQhyS51vcaS_6Hf8M8ur7_UqjBAXiS53Ah1pgX4gdus5MWH0YaKAPNg0RTQakVpg0bsrk51-qwnVeBnv5TavcAEdxnRL1w/s200/craigcajahuaraz+146.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">severed pigs' heads, Cuba-like in their grimness</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5_fkmKUnfx-XhUXmiKbBLemyzNF_kFTYbq60tV8zfiXYl5Op64SWu2Ba62eP5qWIB2dfCQIMSJv9BotXDHi1CkAPk9YoilhmFSsLXaBDB0by5guBOJSh7LSH7lpuNkQa5htd6PE_L-A/s1600/craigcajahuaraz+149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5_fkmKUnfx-XhUXmiKbBLemyzNF_kFTYbq60tV8zfiXYl5Op64SWu2Ba62eP5qWIB2dfCQIMSJv9BotXDHi1CkAPk9YoilhmFSsLXaBDB0by5guBOJSh7LSH7lpuNkQa5htd6PE_L-A/s320/craigcajahuaraz+149.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the best of all, skinned and gutted guinea pigs (CUY), one of Peru's main culinary delights, supposedly.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4qGpcShanRDScYxlVmV1h6w6pJHcgO68EcRowrqQJ_f88bB8F8VYnkokfy66zFO6s9Ri1pCB_4BJ6HoINPfcsKUM6XZ9tcm1ERjMaZKuWrUFWIbRA3q-gfM4pqSjreZVxEJSlVgaq2Q/s1600/IMG_5335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4qGpcShanRDScYxlVmV1h6w6pJHcgO68EcRowrqQJ_f88bB8F8VYnkokfy66zFO6s9Ri1pCB_4BJ6HoINPfcsKUM6XZ9tcm1ERjMaZKuWrUFWIbRA3q-gfM4pqSjreZVxEJSlVgaq2Q/s320/IMG_5335.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In Huaraz, we busked again for the first time since Quito, several months ago. These sessions were quite animated and productive. (this and following 8 photos: Patrick Meury)</div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3TeGmbFRn8bbtm5IA_sNK4_RI-lqAUT50WC3j_sshtljGaYCldrMXRvZ1EbkGqESJEFWCmx20kL95IvS9-utwBZ5gIwjoDX1CEKKbCSKbfy7Ce1hYh4KCgKI3nf8rzyBWSHfRy-gQw/s1600/IMG_5349-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3TeGmbFRn8bbtm5IA_sNK4_RI-lqAUT50WC3j_sshtljGaYCldrMXRvZ1EbkGqESJEFWCmx20kL95IvS9-utwBZ5gIwjoDX1CEKKbCSKbfy7Ce1hYh4KCgKI3nf8rzyBWSHfRy-gQw/s320/IMG_5349-2.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">getting warmed up</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEcIInCSffjHR7k5yZSVFH7O7hMtKlrxPZ7bfvmtVviXDbRZQCMC9GZVxpi1-3zpsAb_SZkSllQA3Y2sIkf3XSCis8i00EYlYVJriM0DE3RoCC0tjfJWUAA6a7hU-04nhbIv6MO8d5cg/s1600/IMG_5392-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEcIInCSffjHR7k5yZSVFH7O7hMtKlrxPZ7bfvmtVviXDbRZQCMC9GZVxpi1-3zpsAb_SZkSllQA3Y2sIkf3XSCis8i00EYlYVJriM0DE3RoCC0tjfJWUAA6a7hU-04nhbIv6MO8d5cg/s320/IMG_5392-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Craig belts one out, Sonja on maracas</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOvTsPu8rdLfESbYnNBq0JC9bBuLwAkXmL1LDCP56zOILFzi_JhnR77xf6f9rBsOd7-NkTwJLTUHukO_QmWi4H-Ly8pjq1UTdJLxMC_scTtOPrfLtT9Bqm180gx6MkuPoJvmlDVWE8GQ/s1600/IMG_5382-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOvTsPu8rdLfESbYnNBq0JC9bBuLwAkXmL1LDCP56zOILFzi_JhnR77xf6f9rBsOd7-NkTwJLTUHukO_QmWi4H-Ly8pjq1UTdJLxMC_scTtOPrfLtT9Bqm180gx6MkuPoJvmlDVWE8GQ/s320/IMG_5382-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">blues licks fill the air</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIxszJJ08IWJb3wyunA3AzNGyCsxwagbnEq34rJIjL688KsDlmRCQu4po9z4BPElxVDSlsI1_Qw2WANrRZeIxvIfVE6TNE6qVViJ5Jpv5MEU6DpQj-HN6dCbzKht0JxhUaaOTSDGShXw/s1600/IMG_5359-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIxszJJ08IWJb3wyunA3AzNGyCsxwagbnEq34rJIjL688KsDlmRCQu4po9z4BPElxVDSlsI1_Qw2WANrRZeIxvIfVE6TNE6qVViJ5Jpv5MEU6DpQj-HN6dCbzKht0JxhUaaOTSDGShXw/s320/IMG_5359-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jason on rhythm</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkdRhzcGT5a57eehdLI-LjsdNTKvsUu647kC1uYHe1s6EE3Flz_ieWettIRXZ5YQgYJfH4hGBny8VYcDvbhZRn_SkdNYzZb4b4E4WlNL9mKctMZTurUr5TAN6pAM9HWXZzt8BtqJSdQ/s1600/IMG_5396-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkdRhzcGT5a57eehdLI-LjsdNTKvsUu647kC1uYHe1s6EE3Flz_ieWettIRXZ5YQgYJfH4hGBny8VYcDvbhZRn_SkdNYzZb4b4E4WlNL9mKctMZTurUr5TAN6pAM9HWXZzt8BtqJSdQ/s320/IMG_5396-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our fan club</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiywkJpZNDP5bK7DQf9CB7_MQtCMg0vjs7NGzjt7cHev6mqGWPUumUBpqDdUxauSi1hhnUylvV96S13MEBPQ7Mv6I3QBnaXhReDUVlz42FvP-YG-c0dQlHtoxJOZhSk9muVfbVUp_CgxA/s1600/IMG_5412-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiywkJpZNDP5bK7DQf9CB7_MQtCMg0vjs7NGzjt7cHev6mqGWPUumUBpqDdUxauSi1hhnUylvV96S13MEBPQ7Mv6I3QBnaXhReDUVlz42FvP-YG-c0dQlHtoxJOZhSk9muVfbVUp_CgxA/s320/IMG_5412-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">joined by a young local guitarist who sits in on a few songs</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFm4FFEVUNc1V3afisKVDefR_H51J6lGu53qbZJKvo_DOAv8V5GP6HbxU4EB0-E2EY4mCRhDU6z8A2sh5-SzRaVH90LnLsH-mz0Vmd6tK26qVE2E5xxxEC3JYncrNi_F9sPBgD9z9b0w/s1600/IMG_5415-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFm4FFEVUNc1V3afisKVDefR_H51J6lGu53qbZJKvo_DOAv8V5GP6HbxU4EB0-E2EY4mCRhDU6z8A2sh5-SzRaVH90LnLsH-mz0Vmd6tK26qVE2E5xxxEC3JYncrNi_F9sPBgD9z9b0w/s320/IMG_5415-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">one of the several large crowds we were able to gather in Huaraz</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> (photos this post Craig Caparatta unless otherwise noted)The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-47735919661305441652011-09-11T17:43:00.000-10:002011-09-11T17:43:25.174-10:00Segment 42: San Ignacio, Peru to Cajamarca, Peru (August 11 - 21, 2011)<div style="text-align: center;">Not to disappoint, the route south from San Ignacio through what is called the Northern Highlands of Peru continued the dramatic scenery, low-traffic, village-and-small-town, dirt surface adventure that we have been on since Vilcabamba, Ecuador. Every kilometer that we advance into Peru the country becomes more mystical, more gigantic, more baffling, and more enchanting. <i>(Much of our inspiration and information for this route comes from www.hobobiker.com, an excellent source of info, including routes, distances, and elevations, for cyclists in the Americas.) </i></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhodrRwopDJTUaFv9tkLvsMQlMM2uBq8Te8-p-av5wOncNymuojLgZsmZcElkDJBtEFQVzzjvU9_EUFsToSODqHWK5xDABrOP_LHxtlKvz0e_lMA9Z65ubYFIPEUI5hc-5BS4hGxbk6dw/s1600/IMG_1069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhodrRwopDJTUaFv9tkLvsMQlMM2uBq8Te8-p-av5wOncNymuojLgZsmZcElkDJBtEFQVzzjvU9_EUFsToSODqHWK5xDABrOP_LHxtlKvz0e_lMA9Z65ubYFIPEUI5hc-5BS4hGxbk6dw/s200/IMG_1069.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Before heading out of San Ignacio we got in rehearsal time for some bluegrass songs. Craig works on his mandolin skills.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ_9md21hrqQZyMSUPPMcSYGvZMSLz3hDfooE5v4mC5PXQzeZIt_vKTi7XFF4GgYs5a3zXdKq7-6Ps0Bk2KoThw3IPjdFxV7nBbc5rEeIthN7APD0hCiLApiQEhplFllOdjjeV9iVdNw/s1600/IMG_1073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ_9md21hrqQZyMSUPPMcSYGvZMSLz3hDfooE5v4mC5PXQzeZIt_vKTi7XFF4GgYs5a3zXdKq7-6Ps0Bk2KoThw3IPjdFxV7nBbc5rEeIthN7APD0hCiLApiQEhplFllOdjjeV9iVdNw/s320/IMG_1073.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...excellent graded dirt road out of San Ignacio...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioWRk7tL6Jkgw8_XFUpiRLn21SocsE4RyCQqWfFOcLEy9brTcUHI7INNsUL4zoRvCRAvPOTNHQdWiyBBcMOixS_IkgLmYEQHJ6rNb5xH2itiUpqO-uYAEitXrdhEqlGqHFTB2_BjQEww/s1600/IMG_1077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioWRk7tL6Jkgw8_XFUpiRLn21SocsE4RyCQqWfFOcLEy9brTcUHI7INNsUL4zoRvCRAvPOTNHQdWiyBBcMOixS_IkgLmYEQHJ6rNb5xH2itiUpqO-uYAEitXrdhEqlGqHFTB2_BjQEww/s400/IMG_1077.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqsHN7bZsmMVKxouqoz1QzkENcJePzrX5zMPe3wmw2eU6JZE2VafIxkVKzpo0kV2NwEcU0kIfOyIG80SM36tItLqxTrL4tgWfRgPbofXcI4JSN1JQsIFrDDY-hZEe6vanu4QhItsdvDQ/s1600/IMG_1083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqsHN7bZsmMVKxouqoz1QzkENcJePzrX5zMPe3wmw2eU6JZE2VafIxkVKzpo0kV2NwEcU0kIfOyIG80SM36tItLqxTrL4tgWfRgPbofXcI4JSN1JQsIFrDDY-hZEe6vanu4QhItsdvDQ/s320/IMG_1083.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this turned to pavement after a bit, but with no traffic the riding was highly enjoyable</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQmhuLQJsxMnIrBQEE5ufyxtqPvXp8wDbrD7-0-_Y9FMQ2HU20pVtJiH98LR3-boj-6q3b54cG0jObLnowRa4gncAPvFEOdrdanSbClGt-D7PF5CjHXE-ImRU5MrMIN1fEmg9EaS3Ug/s1600/IMG_1084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQmhuLQJsxMnIrBQEE5ufyxtqPvXp8wDbrD7-0-_Y9FMQ2HU20pVtJiH98LR3-boj-6q3b54cG0jObLnowRa4gncAPvFEOdrdanSbClGt-D7PF5CjHXE-ImRU5MrMIN1fEmg9EaS3Ug/s320/IMG_1084.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">rice fields are all over this region</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCAScjAvn73YZ32Xyx8mE5Hht0lrK-r89MAQcoS0ajgsG1srTfe_WnBL90RKkpV4lLd69q0OWFUNlLnzlcjcqiRifA285OTUaqi6pR7cZyO75ZVLTgztEaVg2lQbEAuFSAWeRc0acYXg/s1600/IMG_1090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCAScjAvn73YZ32Xyx8mE5Hht0lrK-r89MAQcoS0ajgsG1srTfe_WnBL90RKkpV4lLd69q0OWFUNlLnzlcjcqiRifA285OTUaqi6pR7cZyO75ZVLTgztEaVg2lQbEAuFSAWeRc0acYXg/s200/IMG_1090.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in Tamborada we found fresh local soy milk being sold at ridiculously low prices in the street. Apparently soy is grown along the berms in the rice fields. We drank about 3 glasses each before you could blink.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePCGv0L1m9qm7qpfHTZiYpHT6Ud0lxmYPmOxwAyzWxIHPCeR_c_cmrrBb0OWLp1PQkh6UNoiFQUPAI7UBVkwg8fkwLq5mWCH1EEeNLzCPhXUoz_zI73rC_OHzmCKdMRj3fTcIaqumQQ/s1600/IMG_1175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePCGv0L1m9qm7qpfHTZiYpHT6Ud0lxmYPmOxwAyzWxIHPCeR_c_cmrrBb0OWLp1PQkh6UNoiFQUPAI7UBVkwg8fkwLq5mWCH1EEeNLzCPhXUoz_zI73rC_OHzmCKdMRj3fTcIaqumQQ/s200/IMG_1175.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the dark side of Tamborada was the plague of mosquitoes we encountered, worst since Yucatán Peninsula.. These are Craig's feet displaying about 200 bites endured while spending the night here.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtrtrdXRJMkuOYSGKIbMpP6wblTAdwsXlqg479EZeM2An0MMTDJt_X-t1NC-_czHFVbyNMWA1IZy9rzw8wa6VDTb3NlxUFTwJ_HXoIp2v-wiH3azgbaze85_ZjeK14q73vTzzJl4bp7w/s1600/IMG_1092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtrtrdXRJMkuOYSGKIbMpP6wblTAdwsXlqg479EZeM2An0MMTDJt_X-t1NC-_czHFVbyNMWA1IZy9rzw8wa6VDTb3NlxUFTwJ_HXoIp2v-wiH3azgbaze85_ZjeK14q73vTzzJl4bp7w/s400/IMG_1092.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">dusk view from Tamborada</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpoK2p1Vd7pGBUaSmUwr14-CpbbsXmRpSy0VcO7wxMPGJs_R8htt7GVKy9l13cR30YEng6nsLyW0ji3Ev96PMBTMe30BpL5gnc_b1SfrucOCFYytBxuaO78Yarlk8RbWfvVzjiOoPomQ/s1600/IMG_1097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpoK2p1Vd7pGBUaSmUwr14-CpbbsXmRpSy0VcO7wxMPGJs_R8htt7GVKy9l13cR30YEng6nsLyW0ji3Ev96PMBTMe30BpL5gnc_b1SfrucOCFYytBxuaO78Yarlk8RbWfvVzjiOoPomQ/s200/IMG_1097.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">vibrant green of the ubiquitious rice</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdgNHB_1pW3WFygCXKBwCMsJEplrWZUWsjc4LfADJXTmhRqvaVWpjJ0ITorJtdJyr81ST3gkQ1_RkG73c4vGMfSNCQVrvs_jT6stAhK5XQoRLMOdy6p-QVtMCEko51STi8aUSYlCjZfQ/s1600/IMG_1101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdgNHB_1pW3WFygCXKBwCMsJEplrWZUWsjc4LfADJXTmhRqvaVWpjJ0ITorJtdJyr81ST3gkQ1_RkG73c4vGMfSNCQVrvs_jT6stAhK5XQoRLMOdy6p-QVtMCEko51STi8aUSYlCjZfQ/s320/IMG_1101.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...curious kids in Bella Vista...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj91FohI1A8_I74i2Cym7EVkRsz4NyFZUOzMuUzCpkSghnRbhHvcRPzxgmdHqpb0uVAew6EYVTyg3_YOeBh6J7UmeEqXBL0XimQuHKrLaPiy9bs0DkXoWHgXG1MMzmv6yUhARoKwUUBag/s1600/IMG_1102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj91FohI1A8_I74i2Cym7EVkRsz4NyFZUOzMuUzCpkSghnRbhHvcRPzxgmdHqpb0uVAew6EYVTyg3_YOeBh6J7UmeEqXBL0XimQuHKrLaPiy9bs0DkXoWHgXG1MMzmv6yUhARoKwUUBag/s200/IMG_1102.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05JGAULAPPepie1Vftl9PM2f-h1pLvVySKsa5ziJyCcAG2PXNLZuCkDvKM04akMySRGkxuLDz6iFp3v7JqDH3W8Xsy67eV8gEWcTiPQVB26lJJ5U-UBjeUSIBzkB5WeglobSbCR8JVA/s1600/IMG_1109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05JGAULAPPepie1Vftl9PM2f-h1pLvVySKsa5ziJyCcAG2PXNLZuCkDvKM04akMySRGkxuLDz6iFp3v7JqDH3W8Xsy67eV8gEWcTiPQVB26lJJ5U-UBjeUSIBzkB5WeglobSbCR8JVA/s400/IMG_1109.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">bizarre desert landscape featuring irrigated rice and even a few palms</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfEB2hKZYAev6abIf3kJYqsD7irUUxOCF4eSr6hyphenhyphen9fKoqI-X-KnN9V1oP0e7jwP3UJ2Xcv0sqmETVCld6lnnRIUsWDKVkOPbvu69CsNyW428rgnm_UcrsycknrUYieo2La8KcK3Sl28w/s1600/IMG_1117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfEB2hKZYAev6abIf3kJYqsD7irUUxOCF4eSr6hyphenhyphen9fKoqI-X-KnN9V1oP0e7jwP3UJ2Xcv0sqmETVCld6lnnRIUsWDKVkOPbvu69CsNyW428rgnm_UcrsycknrUYieo2La8KcK3Sl28w/s200/IMG_1117.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">cactus growing only a few meters away </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_-p5TlUe8Hew7P3KWkMrlT3QbEF6L6ygFoVDYoohaP20RA0H7RGl_hQ8A8ZtR1bvKoxLTobg7HuYwMyxkMpFxYtvrvWWvcGTseDsEX8ANo3tWVd5DDDaj_dGL2mdIavylLuQq13nLw/s1600/IMG_1118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_-p5TlUe8Hew7P3KWkMrlT3QbEF6L6ygFoVDYoohaP20RA0H7RGl_hQ8A8ZtR1bvKoxLTobg7HuYwMyxkMpFxYtvrvWWvcGTseDsEX8ANo3tWVd5DDDaj_dGL2mdIavylLuQq13nLw/s320/IMG_1118.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... this was an unforgiving hot dry stretch...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZTJgJ1gpSZxXwrh_NatO4OfKN_SiyQp9KrGOOztd2kdTbv2W-EdRPJRWEXD2Ptgssy4i9Xa6CaijNKynF3IHr60ebDX9AxHS5wUdvi4YTew-Lq_nillbHBUq6ajZOAY4YrosvwpaV6g/s1600/IMG_1119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZTJgJ1gpSZxXwrh_NatO4OfKN_SiyQp9KrGOOztd2kdTbv2W-EdRPJRWEXD2Ptgssy4i9Xa6CaijNKynF3IHr60ebDX9AxHS5wUdvi4YTew-Lq_nillbHBUq6ajZOAY4YrosvwpaV6g/s200/IMG_1119.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJdqDwbuhj7DCxdr2WlxAvBiJIecFfjTa08lVgzSBanhyNum0wUFrqXtv65AOheFQS8Ut5WdBSmRY5MXe5jSX7W4aFP0zwo8IMupCNl0NrRUw-yFvwm7Le7ausIFO8FW6Dz0WMS9pXQg/s1600/IMG_1121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJdqDwbuhj7DCxdr2WlxAvBiJIecFfjTa08lVgzSBanhyNum0wUFrqXtv65AOheFQS8Ut5WdBSmRY5MXe5jSX7W4aFP0zwo8IMupCNl0NrRUw-yFvwm7Le7ausIFO8FW6Dz0WMS9pXQg/s320/IMG_1121.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Sonia swimming in the Rio Marañon after finding out that we were lost (while looking for a boat crossing) and had to return to Bella Vista</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgToKwBvw1ia37C1ZooDZ_iXTtIu4iiW3cTdY9oqcoxwThAiSmyP6DbKXYTW7XU8duXU_elrietxYXCYbPPaoDmn0sqprInj0DKIf0SbLm-1uSwvMVRXZkgZaVX7e2WwXYfuyNlADXtJg/s1600/IMG_1124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgToKwBvw1ia37C1ZooDZ_iXTtIu4iiW3cTdY9oqcoxwThAiSmyP6DbKXYTW7XU8duXU_elrietxYXCYbPPaoDmn0sqprInj0DKIf0SbLm-1uSwvMVRXZkgZaVX7e2WwXYfuyNlADXtJg/s320/IMG_1124.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...eventually we found the boat crossing, and loaded our bikes...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrO6VfG76yHxb7E5RZvaqtoLCbAT3Gzwk4sTSEHaWiyWGdAgSGGaXDi-D9poKjExRj6eosHzxyOVXzSYhkWGqYv4BGuKQgmLZn6mzrCox9i7dkvEEQ203diPfWXKyTKnjy35iNGuuWvQ/s1600/IMG_1127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrO6VfG76yHxb7E5RZvaqtoLCbAT3Gzwk4sTSEHaWiyWGdAgSGGaXDi-D9poKjExRj6eosHzxyOVXzSYhkWGqYv4BGuKQgmLZn6mzrCox9i7dkvEEQ203diPfWXKyTKnjy35iNGuuWvQ/s200/IMG_1127.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRipPQuBjb6JcxRiAkBVAypMe9r2IQ1lwwPDcZDLNPwhRQr0vC1UKLbgbhExCA1IXym_N0mImxMiTy2BYRcNUzuwOqsd7EsS1gfwzlkDUtDTrTOAwWygwRmSkcaPWv1c9xhkQ4PWrNBQ/s1600/IMG_1131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRipPQuBjb6JcxRiAkBVAypMe9r2IQ1lwwPDcZDLNPwhRQr0vC1UKLbgbhExCA1IXym_N0mImxMiTy2BYRcNUzuwOqsd7EsS1gfwzlkDUtDTrTOAwWygwRmSkcaPWv1c9xhkQ4PWrNBQ/s320/IMG_1131.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... now in Bagua Grande, these photos document what can only be described as "Peruvian construction techniques", which include a mad retrofit labyrinth of cutoffs and weird angles...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1fmAx361lddA8_gJw2GuE9KYIGIXYeo_vHOkaOvEA9hTOZACVHmu30CeXIMsWOC9rfGHR0MJFww5mvyPktfBYC5DvkHapXFnITo_5v7eG0ILDT2Il2z3TMEFv_aGlTLD_Km6Ao28w1A/s1600/IMG_1140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1fmAx361lddA8_gJw2GuE9KYIGIXYeo_vHOkaOvEA9hTOZACVHmu30CeXIMsWOC9rfGHR0MJFww5mvyPktfBYC5DvkHapXFnITo_5v7eG0ILDT2Il2z3TMEFv_aGlTLD_Km6Ao28w1A/s200/IMG_1140.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...baling wire holding everything together...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2xRyH6OApOWJCqrAlpbOv5DGRt13oPGicHdZLIgx3DioAU5p8HSw-G7cxl5fKUjbyO0QC705b4OtdnSqpbe5tfF9vD3aPp0FdTvZ9Hnp9fOtaP3PeNvx7pKx6ziF0ArkdzbQrp9c5rw/s1600/IMG_1143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2xRyH6OApOWJCqrAlpbOv5DGRt13oPGicHdZLIgx3DioAU5p8HSw-G7cxl5fKUjbyO0QC705b4OtdnSqpbe5tfF9vD3aPp0FdTvZ9Hnp9fOtaP3PeNvx7pKx6ziF0ArkdzbQrp9c5rw/s200/IMG_1143.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... and ill-fitting planks secured at untrue angles with plenty of awkward spaces between</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqRlvsOYS_DsFCvw6oRjKDpMeKQvvRTpiK6HhgZU0oYJx4s5EsYXd39HeeHvQ9HTQoU6cG8hkh8wYmy3lnzi80neFkmPTIfOYAFgvqHTXGfojhG-LY7KvdiW_VFKGIPVQIPkIOQ6HGMQ/s1600/IMG_1144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqRlvsOYS_DsFCvw6oRjKDpMeKQvvRTpiK6HhgZU0oYJx4s5EsYXd39HeeHvQ9HTQoU6cG8hkh8wYmy3lnzi80neFkmPTIfOYAFgvqHTXGfojhG-LY7KvdiW_VFKGIPVQIPkIOQ6HGMQ/s320/IMG_1144.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">leaving Bagua Grande we followed this fun road south</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEeE99blGvvPhGyc3R_gj9_6KlpLvcdbd63x0bTBOrrtEHvrXfdgIe41xz1C833Yf_qHbhFVuI3mt0RWvNLtIAiu9zmW9cNeW0ok2m6QI0AYIeG4RgOHwX_oRDwGUSW4713EQs258Zig/s1600/IMG_1147.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEeE99blGvvPhGyc3R_gj9_6KlpLvcdbd63x0bTBOrrtEHvrXfdgIe41xz1C833Yf_qHbhFVuI3mt0RWvNLtIAiu9zmW9cNeW0ok2m6QI0AYIeG4RgOHwX_oRDwGUSW4713EQs258Zig/s320/IMG_1147.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQQZraMU_DqZA5JxSt1jfMN_fjL7J_-Sy5zheBEi7vXZaDN4Kyk0djsfHMQs3cjuQo_qMDRgGtqeES_v9qK6C4a2xfBrbhhF3HhrILaCXC32KxKGVgEmv8KHlSrG_1dGLurxPQW5Q-hA/s1600/IMG_1149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQQZraMU_DqZA5JxSt1jfMN_fjL7J_-Sy5zheBEi7vXZaDN4Kyk0djsfHMQs3cjuQo_qMDRgGtqeES_v9qK6C4a2xfBrbhhF3HhrILaCXC32KxKGVgEmv8KHlSrG_1dGLurxPQW5Q-hA/s320/IMG_1149.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">our campsite in a great canyon next to a river</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq3Dx3ewouJn3sMaDp_orBbV6kHPJCpJpDNfJWhJeybV44UMmsm8SpEpvKIArVRLWJn4uKPI6Dnw4X7fyMSXuHZ1Ls1tZgxWvuZ7Tu5iePw1KfYdPxZpw7AdMYpx6Dnqrcnrkn8Pa8Nw/s1600/IMG_1156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq3Dx3ewouJn3sMaDp_orBbV6kHPJCpJpDNfJWhJeybV44UMmsm8SpEpvKIArVRLWJn4uKPI6Dnw4X7fyMSXuHZ1Ls1tZgxWvuZ7Tu5iePw1KfYdPxZpw7AdMYpx6Dnqrcnrkn8Pa8Nw/s400/IMG_1156.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...the following morning we started to climb up spectacular mild-graded canyons...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLwV8ehHmuG6OI5xZYbaX9J4Hb1bJ2P28LWAJAACuOhWK5GIEPnkSSzVa2jMKp_QxEMI3gY1rG_7MDaGkdmg2RvwgwVpdeNHXKfwOU_ioC2XjK0fHGsVbo9xk-TdpF_eemaohsxQKxA/s1600/IMG_1165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLwV8ehHmuG6OI5xZYbaX9J4Hb1bJ2P28LWAJAACuOhWK5GIEPnkSSzVa2jMKp_QxEMI3gY1rG_7MDaGkdmg2RvwgwVpdeNHXKfwOU_ioC2XjK0fHGsVbo9xk-TdpF_eemaohsxQKxA/s320/IMG_1165.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6FHA57Ry0Loz2BxMkOuXqpbcrRzWlCY-XERgpboONCOL1tfuzT6xuAy7Zx75mY6SS5PB43pi6WklmQ2oo7lZ7XVnziPGosSvScaPx5CBDuaOZe-2tZgDZNZ7BO0NkN7uZFLwGqmVEA/s1600/IMG_1167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6FHA57Ry0Loz2BxMkOuXqpbcrRzWlCY-XERgpboONCOL1tfuzT6xuAy7Zx75mY6SS5PB43pi6WklmQ2oo7lZ7XVnziPGosSvScaPx5CBDuaOZe-2tZgDZNZ7BO0NkN7uZFLwGqmVEA/s320/IMG_1167.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... a run-in first with two Argentinian cyclists, and then two British cyclists, all going north, and a great source of information for us...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlw28MMWz5SWEWAj3Al1Ia9RbwC0gehgLfYIuG4UY2OF1_Y-nCbU_NRj-Vn1R4lHwUNMhyC3356cjj96KdxBMM7BohCeixtWLweRUkA6fSm5RkYY9n1hgg_2ohAjEh7wZTLb7sdpv3tQ/s1600/IMG_1168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlw28MMWz5SWEWAj3Al1Ia9RbwC0gehgLfYIuG4UY2OF1_Y-nCbU_NRj-Vn1R4lHwUNMhyC3356cjj96KdxBMM7BohCeixtWLweRUkA6fSm5RkYY9n1hgg_2ohAjEh7wZTLb7sdpv3tQ/s200/IMG_1168.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG696xZhnCu8IxyAwCKgw8b8w_ZHZdmbLUcIAkOo6qg_aJSdQLxV5LHsOneQEhfp6JUI166vjYzGiSWe7gyxBipAfnGyUoKSRmMi1cwW1349OAKvnWbpP77ddSyW3qoE0N24Ty_I5nGg/s1600/IMG_1170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG696xZhnCu8IxyAwCKgw8b8w_ZHZdmbLUcIAkOo6qg_aJSdQLxV5LHsOneQEhfp6JUI166vjYzGiSWe7gyxBipAfnGyUoKSRmMi1cwW1349OAKvnWbpP77ddSyW3qoE0N24Ty_I5nGg/s320/IMG_1170.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">more great canyon riding, up the Utcubamba River valley</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHvQNtuIWAnjFyI0Y2NRieGEiB9H7Wr0qIRkTyF5eGXDYvWx7JrJUo_BA3N7SBOF6KC521C_TICxA67g8FwI2AG2bsYzIWJC07JkCWQr4ueKX4GiDPMoNleBV_RUOGLEMhuidHZHNzUQ/s1600/IMG_1176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHvQNtuIWAnjFyI0Y2NRieGEiB9H7Wr0qIRkTyF5eGXDYvWx7JrJUo_BA3N7SBOF6KC521C_TICxA67g8FwI2AG2bsYzIWJC07JkCWQr4ueKX4GiDPMoNleBV_RUOGLEMhuidHZHNzUQ/s200/IMG_1176.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">these construction bricks also deserve special attention for their particular geometry, seen at the Chachapollas/Leymebamba turnoff</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiegbbMAM022Iy4nnHFSVzCR8CLNtLvgycZZz6ww1PCoPr7hANWpi-eOUykHuzyBcyY7JCsE02mrtfwDN4Cutij01lc6u4TzLlTGOY0DgREeSm0SkxDoXF990FxcU7gSDxi0N2aYFl0kQ/s1600/IMG_1178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiegbbMAM022Iy4nnHFSVzCR8CLNtLvgycZZz6ww1PCoPr7hANWpi-eOUykHuzyBcyY7JCsE02mrtfwDN4Cutij01lc6u4TzLlTGOY0DgREeSm0SkxDoXF990FxcU7gSDxi0N2aYFl0kQ/s320/IMG_1178.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">back on dirt and loving it</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYYgo-dN3w25Dgr_8rGfUIyfdfJx1wwbK0Ai4Ior3ADI3gi4vyWQGP_fq4pbG5k1i2YPnYwfPYs1NrjEFSsRhoSgbMmt2nM6aZ_isG2EKExTPb1gl2pS098hxosGSdJa_qyI2EtAMCw/s1600/IMG_1180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYYgo-dN3w25Dgr_8rGfUIyfdfJx1wwbK0Ai4Ior3ADI3gi4vyWQGP_fq4pbG5k1i2YPnYwfPYs1NrjEFSsRhoSgbMmt2nM6aZ_isG2EKExTPb1gl2pS098hxosGSdJa_qyI2EtAMCw/s200/IMG_1180.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">at El Tingo we secured a ride up to the ruins of Kuelap in the back of this pickup truck</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrlMf81xacTJ_RzdufGsF41ThoRs5xL9FWqDuJQkpSezTTDO15Dbm2qIUMK4PCiARl8pwAVhD_rVQzJbpxVnWcAQ-1j2Jl3zYYAQoh8nkMChLs-zyXpt8JyitHkY0rcnRH5cyfcJEaSQ/s1600/IMG_1197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrlMf81xacTJ_RzdufGsF41ThoRs5xL9FWqDuJQkpSezTTDO15Dbm2qIUMK4PCiARl8pwAVhD_rVQzJbpxVnWcAQ-1j2Jl3zYYAQoh8nkMChLs-zyXpt8JyitHkY0rcnRH5cyfcJEaSQ/s400/IMG_1197.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is the road up to Kuelap, over 35km long. Truth be told, the ride was terrifying in the back of a pickup truck (sheer vertical drops into a several thousand foot canyon on a narrow dirt road with no guardrails, where drivers alert other drivers by beeping their horn before turning a steep curve, as in all of Peru) and we would have felt much safer on our bikes.</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9P-Q8Sci-Li93FuZi41Rn4BYvRVP1v84K_obabM0BgIp_dWkCdvy0eqlieolOOPffGvQte5Lc68N2_MxLwA0XCmuUFKytdVomSEuvmMdrSxZS_0gj7SDaC6wcVXih_R5F5jnIa5TMjQ/s1600/IMG_1184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9P-Q8Sci-Li93FuZi41Rn4BYvRVP1v84K_obabM0BgIp_dWkCdvy0eqlieolOOPffGvQte5Lc68N2_MxLwA0XCmuUFKytdVomSEuvmMdrSxZS_0gj7SDaC6wcVXih_R5F5jnIa5TMjQ/s320/IMG_1184.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Kuelap, one of the largest archaeological sites in South America, is the most prominent site of the Chachapoyas culture, and dates back to the 6th century A.D. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigi4k9GEwm143qHCfFYyMmTjkgfs_7tZdh-rDCGsJpCWBlQcAWq478CWXgh8l37TjPoUJavzgQqFkNt0b0B-dgA1oBnNv9-ek8aBhf56vPJXMG0whnhlas34fBxsJ__upHy1hxNQj_oQ/s1600/IMG_1205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigi4k9GEwm143qHCfFYyMmTjkgfs_7tZdh-rDCGsJpCWBlQcAWq478CWXgh8l37TjPoUJavzgQqFkNt0b0B-dgA1oBnNv9-ek8aBhf56vPJXMG0whnhlas34fBxsJ__upHy1hxNQj_oQ/s200/IMG_1205.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... llamas on the grounds of Kuelap...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4m7JYj94iYexSTJkkNMherWhzz6rnO99ybPvtPsxK_YTjKSB2ojnPfpNjDcgiBSjmqSBXgYq6_HObuIHpjvwSjKXzKKubX0y_B-q_l4owjPr9K37q-qZwfI2hXWyQmm7krGaXq9b8A/s1600/IMG_1201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4m7JYj94iYexSTJkkNMherWhzz6rnO99ybPvtPsxK_YTjKSB2ojnPfpNjDcgiBSjmqSBXgYq6_HObuIHpjvwSjKXzKKubX0y_B-q_l4owjPr9K37q-qZwfI2hXWyQmm7krGaXq9b8A/s200/IMG_1201.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqfhkfEz-gBARQNiNN4NbDdAqoGC86t_kPXgX6BuMSR519hj2EUn8Hf5DWitPyuVQgFXsgTNXzUdjQ8i-Ok6bf7C2nElI4fhXoMJ1F3-DRW5mbpfMka76rHD8zFxYd7RFreAdldxEDg/s1600/IMG_1203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqfhkfEz-gBARQNiNN4NbDdAqoGC86t_kPXgX6BuMSR519hj2EUn8Hf5DWitPyuVQgFXsgTNXzUdjQ8i-Ok6bf7C2nElI4fhXoMJ1F3-DRW5mbpfMka76rHD8zFxYd7RFreAdldxEDg/s320/IMG_1203.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">contemplating the views from the top</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGyTiOpWvbq3d3DEr6H0nAGceydCBkt0pnf_CQCV9kY4qS1TDNoFemRj23QojPWa-ygz_2s4-kTTXEvkesqcrjgo-BLIO8Pib_6KO4qz0gfZqQM8Hh4Rqk6uK5UvKxzgazu8XaILy14Q/s1600/IMG_1190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGyTiOpWvbq3d3DEr6H0nAGceydCBkt0pnf_CQCV9kY4qS1TDNoFemRj23QojPWa-ygz_2s4-kTTXEvkesqcrjgo-BLIO8Pib_6KO4qz0gfZqQM8Hh4Rqk6uK5UvKxzgazu8XaILy14Q/s320/IMG_1190.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">family portrait of the family who gave us a ride up... they are from Cajamarca</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6whVE86gMNWWP568l1DF2QGKSof0sxs7K_O2n1CMvZQnABqMyEXpIRsFUqxr_j-4rNoQ5fFw2TyfUUN232dec-aCgVs8CdiZSCfkE3PYT-W3Z4pqw9jyNa4TmsuRZYcBqQdXhHymQ7w/s1600/IMG_1211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6whVE86gMNWWP568l1DF2QGKSof0sxs7K_O2n1CMvZQnABqMyEXpIRsFUqxr_j-4rNoQ5fFw2TyfUUN232dec-aCgVs8CdiZSCfkE3PYT-W3Z4pqw9jyNa4TmsuRZYcBqQdXhHymQ7w/s320/IMG_1211.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">pre-Incan stonework: massive walls which max out at 19m high (over 60 feet high)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFJJD6jNAWnmRuCDcZ7CXlhdkofN06n4AuXhntPeLGFqNoG__dpByarUD1cLSbcLivj-dQYBr8WNLoWgYH-OiNHTV_Sx4RYe99_-XLZQ8KioQeLcyV7rByBWG0ziE9bzO3fEe6CKathw/s1600/IMG_1214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFJJD6jNAWnmRuCDcZ7CXlhdkofN06n4AuXhntPeLGFqNoG__dpByarUD1cLSbcLivj-dQYBr8WNLoWgYH-OiNHTV_Sx4RYe99_-XLZQ8KioQeLcyV7rByBWG0ziE9bzO3fEe6CKathw/s320/IMG_1214.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">cloud forest features amid the ruins</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsFT_5PCNKVasVEh4NsQTBC7GFA27DLcMshg4XHqpzQJjbhFJYmDiP_xIDikBWklH2zVFgc-BmA0Ad6OfUU-RmzPyU93AMgCOCExNj_RD4HH47EeteuhMq_grSeSoeTSO6w8v7L-gXQ/s1600/IMG_1219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsFT_5PCNKVasVEh4NsQTBC7GFA27DLcMshg4XHqpzQJjbhFJYmDiP_xIDikBWklH2zVFgc-BmA0Ad6OfUU-RmzPyU93AMgCOCExNj_RD4HH47EeteuhMq_grSeSoeTSO6w8v7L-gXQ/s320/IMG_1219.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">cool architectural details on some of the walls</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEeoqrz4ptjgjHl3hGWjBXia791TI1kGtOWtBxhWsp5KwRFQvFOuyH_l7flVdkoSZr1t0igpXeICYWnh9SD3eTmireoJraWu0a50XwFtlje3RvjLi5PyMWD8kC1MINJu1vpTIDOsklMA/s1600/IMG_1222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEeoqrz4ptjgjHl3hGWjBXia791TI1kGtOWtBxhWsp5KwRFQvFOuyH_l7flVdkoSZr1t0igpXeICYWnh9SD3eTmireoJraWu0a50XwFtlje3RvjLi5PyMWD8kC1MINJu1vpTIDOsklMA/s400/IMG_1222.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Kuelap, at over 3000m elevation (nearly 10000ft), is set amongst spectacular scenery. It is just one of many archaeological sites in this little-known part of Peru.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hpcCM4Kv04L0FhNw2W-0X1Q9KydNrfEAomB6Clm_6KduBulTo6D_H1VwQ3jt2J2bQfgacZQXjvLMpXoQo5dKpVg4y-5llRGsZ-QAAkAxFhyphenhyphen-CaTBEcgGQ4iTrlVo11Lg3JGXaMU_Yw/s1600/IMG_1226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hpcCM4Kv04L0FhNw2W-0X1Q9KydNrfEAomB6Clm_6KduBulTo6D_H1VwQ3jt2J2bQfgacZQXjvLMpXoQo5dKpVg4y-5llRGsZ-QAAkAxFhyphenhyphen-CaTBEcgGQ4iTrlVo11Lg3JGXaMU_Yw/s320/IMG_1226.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this structure (El Tintero), an inverted cone, defies gravity and the test of time</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfEvnSo6esK2WmhAUVUDYclCX2B530UafcQ4u_LeNe0VhzghTqQJJz5aThuj0MnpXWLBmfrWgwoVZAmlfhGua7pu4N1Br9Ty70DlQZN5UwBT2GPBagRRv7vwL9J2pL2sqAQJZ3ZlhBw/s1600/IMG_1231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfEvnSo6esK2WmhAUVUDYclCX2B530UafcQ4u_LeNe0VhzghTqQJJz5aThuj0MnpXWLBmfrWgwoVZAmlfhGua7pu4N1Br9Ty70DlQZN5UwBT2GPBagRRv7vwL9J2pL2sqAQJZ3ZlhBw/s320/IMG_1231.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the ingenious entrance to Kuelap, which made it very difficult for invading armies to break in, since they had to pass nearly single file and were easily fought back.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMu_6dq7xpeQQjH4nCf7tAdt0BwJALzhGf2m6yXaX5OwuGHSif1k9AnguNYCDfO_UKmTkobZmjg0IvuXzU_FcPAgK_ZuWnEcRRbFTuFzm9CyJVz-AosYkHxVVRrjJGj7yLFsRQvUhU9w/s1600/IMG_1234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMu_6dq7xpeQQjH4nCf7tAdt0BwJALzhGf2m6yXaX5OwuGHSif1k9AnguNYCDfO_UKmTkobZmjg0IvuXzU_FcPAgK_ZuWnEcRRbFTuFzm9CyJVz-AosYkHxVVRrjJGj7yLFsRQvUhU9w/s200/IMG_1234.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">local girl at Kuelap </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifrWlhC7TtFs136eVis2oarq9NlmWGdINfgxW0Tk3n42bUACPQVmb3YA4gEI6gP7uFvnuuLLUH2bSTToPqM_cApy_6y3uh2sADWIjs_ap5rL0zrLNwQBfmB5rzSVSrD6OUHKI6HhPHiw/s1600/IMG_1254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifrWlhC7TtFs136eVis2oarq9NlmWGdINfgxW0Tk3n42bUACPQVmb3YA4gEI6gP7uFvnuuLLUH2bSTToPqM_cApy_6y3uh2sADWIjs_ap5rL0zrLNwQBfmB5rzSVSrD6OUHKI6HhPHiw/s200/IMG_1254.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">flowering cactus seen on the hike back down to El Tingo</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4wcq2qYPK3zK7vO1xTft56GRFBl-Fs1KUKDJliPJvzfrZnoNV8jvf6Lodxm67d7ofYwPJX8ML5piybpAm6U6OGhTpONMM0QFmLZ9amZPpfc8OvdAa9SqLARb0Ahgzf1-oX88LRM9gIQ/s1600/IMG_1256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4wcq2qYPK3zK7vO1xTft56GRFBl-Fs1KUKDJliPJvzfrZnoNV8jvf6Lodxm67d7ofYwPJX8ML5piybpAm6U6OGhTpONMM0QFmLZ9amZPpfc8OvdAa9SqLARb0Ahgzf1-oX88LRM9gIQ/s400/IMG_1256.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">heading towards Leymebamba now, a great stretch following the river</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIy9_2xe1XhpN8QOxt60e3xvg-AGkCZLQs6xkkxmcBO9jtQK1oOiCpL-StJgXOYkdWCK279sE9r54aJMd-CiHI1UmVejO3mDtuLDbuUczzWv53mNqVZnV9ZsQ4t9lz6Dgr7mxvoqN-Q/s1600/IMG_1264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIy9_2xe1XhpN8QOxt60e3xvg-AGkCZLQs6xkkxmcBO9jtQK1oOiCpL-StJgXOYkdWCK279sE9r54aJMd-CiHI1UmVejO3mDtuLDbuUczzWv53mNqVZnV9ZsQ4t9lz6Dgr7mxvoqN-Q/s200/IMG_1264.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">gathering supplies and answering questions from kids</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQ1qHO7vu4AZhUqoZLGuR7d8QhLMG5hPHE-dEb4lPHfMPypll72I_Edn4PZCfnbziG0rSey8cvx7Iay4gynPbaDDbzXweg_81iIQOJ_o_7Znqw1hix52MQzauIgz27mVrY9ZuVMb5wQ/s1600/IMG_1266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQ1qHO7vu4AZhUqoZLGuR7d8QhLMG5hPHE-dEb4lPHfMPypll72I_Edn4PZCfnbziG0rSey8cvx7Iay4gynPbaDDbzXweg_81iIQOJ_o_7Znqw1hix52MQzauIgz27mVrY9ZuVMb5wQ/s200/IMG_1266.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig4J7ZVJ0gRnMj_yngUZlatcP7NOEr6i2j9PnHubCc6XWSwaIDz1FOEvg8n7O4moTsP7pG3V9CwErEf1czPNjU7ezgrw-RY5rWgrY5_RjkH_eoHGibVkjyGkQ0MiD_1uzQnJkwoiSLIg/s1600/IMG_1269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig4J7ZVJ0gRnMj_yngUZlatcP7NOEr6i2j9PnHubCc6XWSwaIDz1FOEvg8n7O4moTsP7pG3V9CwErEf1czPNjU7ezgrw-RY5rWgrY5_RjkH_eoHGibVkjyGkQ0MiD_1uzQnJkwoiSLIg/s320/IMG_1269.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0ql2zr0uO1BG4j4nyspXmrmkmt3efM5Sj27_ADglzyQ1garV1QZmh9mKNbInjBqMiNoYJvhG_uv50zkFrC4duTUnANTqKxCk8sH5R0mODgEvbIx8I5eL4x7K1AQdYUum4uZzO2qghcA/s1600/IMG_1273.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0ql2zr0uO1BG4j4nyspXmrmkmt3efM5Sj27_ADglzyQ1garV1QZmh9mKNbInjBqMiNoYJvhG_uv50zkFrC4duTUnANTqKxCk8sH5R0mODgEvbIx8I5eL4x7K1AQdYUum4uZzO2qghcA/s320/IMG_1273.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">drying corn and beans outside Leymebamba</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyFcH5jro8wAQaTXMrlPlDpQxFJskxlApL4kjid64r2OC32eo4usjH6yU3J2dvBey9xZzxvyi6eFusJJPqqPZ0Zn3VNagvmp0ogOriD4ez9fs8nU3kEYysb1-s83eShAKm18H_NhB4Gg/s1600/IMG_1277.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyFcH5jro8wAQaTXMrlPlDpQxFJskxlApL4kjid64r2OC32eo4usjH6yU3J2dvBey9xZzxvyi6eFusJJPqqPZ0Zn3VNagvmp0ogOriD4ez9fs8nU3kEYysb1-s83eShAKm18H_NhB4Gg/s200/IMG_1277.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim97kch4SyRo9WHiMgr2eOpmctcieiwSzaea_ti3T9Mn4AXsltEBXkEcUwwoOVwP6tB1uB55kYxC28fS-whvUbBnB8Mj_EZlU2EG32-zcRw-Ai778XVr5Xh3E9UN1asUULR7374tMB5w/s1600/IMG_1280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim97kch4SyRo9WHiMgr2eOpmctcieiwSzaea_ti3T9Mn4AXsltEBXkEcUwwoOVwP6tB1uB55kYxC28fS-whvUbBnB8Mj_EZlU2EG32-zcRw-Ai778XVr5Xh3E9UN1asUULR7374tMB5w/s320/IMG_1280.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...Leymebamba... small town in the middle of nowhere. We had fried trout here, a delicious Peruvian dish found all over the highlands.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0WoOUA2IIocrVtq9GCijrGEqi03PM8KYrK4DdRCqYvm1WaZixl2m1INXsVCBTSNSBymCyE7HRPBTvwwIOYDzTa3dKAzg2PPn1CPW4uTCDzv5nDW5fVvrHAeBDTzvydXX7DDiGgjCTXQ/s1600/IMG_1284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0WoOUA2IIocrVtq9GCijrGEqi03PM8KYrK4DdRCqYvm1WaZixl2m1INXsVCBTSNSBymCyE7HRPBTvwwIOYDzTa3dKAzg2PPn1CPW4uTCDzv5nDW5fVvrHAeBDTzvydXX7DDiGgjCTXQ/s320/IMG_1284.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzS1yoFaqZnlalSEoRNfL3sk68G2g9VSIWNUch69FJ2GFCiFH5bBycQPsZveCynB2uj6g4j3oJ2Y0b66I20pok3H2pRRD8O8lSuVgSIZdbZgpkuIFbSQNSaxbiueE8JfXz_BctyzcTmQ/s1600/IMG_1295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzS1yoFaqZnlalSEoRNfL3sk68G2g9VSIWNUch69FJ2GFCiFH5bBycQPsZveCynB2uj6g4j3oJ2Y0b66I20pok3H2pRRD8O8lSuVgSIZdbZgpkuIFbSQNSaxbiueE8JfXz_BctyzcTmQ/s320/IMG_1295.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">climbing up out of Leymebamba, this climb went to 3600m (12000ft)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEwZ51dwcHaDAY8Ee-ml4Az-hhi4K_k-p3Qb0dwIgDDpx_6rCEJh1sJlo13Bh6Hlnx8IHK4L3wkQshXYS8Yn8niucYIr47bFrqnEoCCED9S-efmovREI15Hmb_MTXHcrrqczIjMMp9w/s1600/IMG_1309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEwZ51dwcHaDAY8Ee-ml4Az-hhi4K_k-p3Qb0dwIgDDpx_6rCEJh1sJlo13Bh6Hlnx8IHK4L3wkQshXYS8Yn8niucYIr47bFrqnEoCCED9S-efmovREI15Hmb_MTXHcrrqczIjMMp9w/s320/IMG_1309.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">and then came the fun part... a 60km, all-dirt, low-traffic, 2700m (9000ft)!!!! descent down to the Rio Marañon. This has been voted the BEST DESCENT of the whole trip. It will be hard to top.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1j_V9OFPmJ_I3LGDwsqRisebMKJBON68qegJOZvz6TIWJW8mfuoUJ8H15azNZeFSFhnqiAgvYlQzVUEArBq7BSEfO82UI3eiMEEVewkaXg7MC1mvmdy1aICey3gCR823CrBKxoGwj2w/s1600/IMG_1310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1j_V9OFPmJ_I3LGDwsqRisebMKJBON68qegJOZvz6TIWJW8mfuoUJ8H15azNZeFSFhnqiAgvYlQzVUEArBq7BSEfO82UI3eiMEEVewkaXg7MC1mvmdy1aICey3gCR823CrBKxoGwj2w/s400/IMG_1310.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...flying past immense scenery...</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYbV4Sa3jr57-d1ml82MfWu3gJpNIiZtCLbhxcMs6yNqQ2kdcjbxT3NmfzNgLR3SVQUh3ZSKYu-a82yfJC9Tp5iUjRf_rQZ0FyU6v6HPhrTlRGK4_WOiH4gFKHPgSwiIr_WbVPUbMcYA/s1600/IMG_1314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYbV4Sa3jr57-d1ml82MfWu3gJpNIiZtCLbhxcMs6yNqQ2kdcjbxT3NmfzNgLR3SVQUh3ZSKYu-a82yfJC9Tp5iUjRf_rQZ0FyU6v6HPhrTlRGK4_WOiH4gFKHPgSwiIr_WbVPUbMcYA/s400/IMG_1314.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... down, down, down, the road dynamited out of the canyon walls in many places</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivv4XGctJl0L1-XZd_onDxvsznQVZQxy_4FGzoppRIwmVVk99K3lq80_iKgnkcYHlfnVlZBg65pcsYH1ZpXIeOQ3ZDIAQXdzkvr2_XucOMvisex2P0vq0odlCvuw7AVfSD3RJk5NQYQ/s1600/IMG_1346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivv4XGctJl0L1-XZd_onDxvsznQVZQxy_4FGzoppRIwmVVk99K3lq80_iKgnkcYHlfnVlZBg65pcsYH1ZpXIeOQ3ZDIAQXdzkvr2_XucOMvisex2P0vq0odlCvuw7AVfSD3RJk5NQYQ/s400/IMG_1346.JPG" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... near the bottom, elevation 900m (3000ft), hot and dry. We found fresh local mangoes in Balsas, thankfully. </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFyns0EQ-yiEMz10TW4_POUUE50On-hB0EPYPJ_av2n0fFdG6I4SPz1dmm3LpN_LfEjPrcfR361WrZVFjNCytL7Eole4LdUFX8h7-tRYFsUPr01MhLdRLLc9ztpSHRTWB5Cis2qlbN4w/s1600/IMG_1320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFyns0EQ-yiEMz10TW4_POUUE50On-hB0EPYPJ_av2n0fFdG6I4SPz1dmm3LpN_LfEjPrcfR361WrZVFjNCytL7Eole4LdUFX8h7-tRYFsUPr01MhLdRLLc9ztpSHRTWB5Cis2qlbN4w/s320/IMG_1320.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">now starting up the other side of the canyon. This would be a 45km, 2200m (7000ft) climb back up!!!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPVk80S1XdPlu0YxP2TIj12sskx4qDPjlqfJMvfS6-rwllE71N4vsUylSUCCdXGX668_OMGWornXDFD0WYTJbHN1x2r_muQLzdXE1tC79tZsYQ8yhvlb0gjGQvLIvitrIsFv8D-mAhoA/s1600/IMG_1321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPVk80S1XdPlu0YxP2TIj12sskx4qDPjlqfJMvfS6-rwllE71N4vsUylSUCCdXGX668_OMGWornXDFD0WYTJbHN1x2r_muQLzdXE1tC79tZsYQ8yhvlb0gjGQvLIvitrIsFv8D-mAhoA/s320/IMG_1321.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the grade was soft, at least, and the scenery unbelievable</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHNrYy4Yd-dAS6d5_s8F_kELECYw_skMCXvL8jU5TwG0NUP7ohfzAzM3WYqwjXt-ses4xjwpnSoiD24zwqJ5YwK7-5nO11s7rEcMWva1e1RHfawT4Aa33Se_cUhR-R0nhh9ubakEG3Mw/s1600/IMG_1324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHNrYy4Yd-dAS6d5_s8F_kELECYw_skMCXvL8jU5TwG0NUP7ohfzAzM3WYqwjXt-ses4xjwpnSoiD24zwqJ5YwK7-5nO11s7rEcMWva1e1RHfawT4Aa33Se_cUhR-R0nhh9ubakEG3Mw/s200/IMG_1324.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... this lower part, insufferably hot, featured some desert forms...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqx5dE96qbcXBmqKqag8pA8H8DKl26pMttufJUIRJ8NXn3u8zM9DXNdIH5vq7Gdt5yI8PehNweTST6hyphenhyphenrPtNq-26fGuS7yIOOi-2gkUkPQpsF6izzYjJmujGNuM89K7ed1jQghBhNZWA/s1600/IMG_1331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqx5dE96qbcXBmqKqag8pA8H8DKl26pMttufJUIRJ8NXn3u8zM9DXNdIH5vq7Gdt5yI8PehNweTST6hyphenhyphenrPtNq-26fGuS7yIOOi-2gkUkPQpsF6izzYjJmujGNuM89K7ed1jQghBhNZWA/s200/IMG_1331.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-a3G4TV25BYMKSn3h7mPgjektSlaz0qWNSC-9zc2W7Bt1WIMadNeU6gEaaa8IixpKISmpHeUOCPn8Bq0Jwb7zdELiOB2zsZFXBbhdutpggW6VeCG4t8vvom5OPnim-i4rrQD1I3mZ9Q/s1600/IMG_1359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-a3G4TV25BYMKSn3h7mPgjektSlaz0qWNSC-9zc2W7Bt1WIMadNeU6gEaaa8IixpKISmpHeUOCPn8Bq0Jwb7zdELiOB2zsZFXBbhdutpggW6VeCG4t8vvom5OPnim-i4rrQD1I3mZ9Q/s400/IMG_1359.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">getting close to the top</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7L-KA4xCCaBEzDLU-cFgQAHJOWjA6LQ_py2HtemZhFUtbApwRPvP_z4G9D98hQNCQ3ie7xu9SpikgFMIuO3lrerPO9xPVzddLfc3_h8cIzE7U00eqcQllqqNHorjZu1YRTyWQfgWQ5A/s1600/IMG_1382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7L-KA4xCCaBEzDLU-cFgQAHJOWjA6LQ_py2HtemZhFUtbApwRPvP_z4G9D98hQNCQ3ie7xu9SpikgFMIuO3lrerPO9xPVzddLfc3_h8cIzE7U00eqcQllqqNHorjZu1YRTyWQfgWQ5A/s200/IMG_1382.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">in Celendín, a welcome break from riding (climbing, that is)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiybZbxxiMVXdfF4F1GBwQIlwy9gMvyHjSEcxdvq8zyyCrG_0DzSt8piwYXKMLsdqnjjHTCMZOpQiq2zgVgDqMlkQrMGHKAKJF9p6EyqR4FTxhIY7mtdqduACUFK1SMNRGvBRL0e7WmSw/s1600/IMG_1392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiybZbxxiMVXdfF4F1GBwQIlwy9gMvyHjSEcxdvq8zyyCrG_0DzSt8piwYXKMLsdqnjjHTCMZOpQiq2zgVgDqMlkQrMGHKAKJF9p6EyqR4FTxhIY7mtdqduACUFK1SMNRGvBRL0e7WmSw/s320/IMG_1392.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">back on the road again, still dirt, there was a 50km climb! between Celendín and Cajamarca. For adventure, scenery, spontaneity, and pure fun Peru has emerged as our favorite country yet.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVGHd5g27MHoQuUax-hojuqjbCjGEeFAtLSNtsmDX9jRZIo_iDSw8YgpY83oWYTloiGjM_BG5UdJ5Y8etAxnvohNAKcUPzZNcQBAp3b0P5Id6UxEbbYGrVEuIoLDPaGy9aG1Ukkd23w/s1600/IMG_1413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVGHd5g27MHoQuUax-hojuqjbCjGEeFAtLSNtsmDX9jRZIo_iDSw8YgpY83oWYTloiGjM_BG5UdJ5Y8etAxnvohNAKcUPzZNcQBAp3b0P5Id6UxEbbYGrVEuIoLDPaGy9aG1Ukkd23w/s320/IMG_1413.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Craig entertains local kids</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-dsMeMDJn15KTVvwRbOmHZe1vuIk2WRRxkdHZvqPq9SeZ4AEdWH2qZ8H30V7BqyiK_O_KRoPb-Hz-Afr51JW2XYwzDvJJdZb-8LpuStcd13nsaYqV7C8q4N70tI7ROkbVsz3RVGGkuQ/s1600/IMG_1420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nba="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-dsMeMDJn15KTVvwRbOmHZe1vuIk2WRRxkdHZvqPq9SeZ4AEdWH2qZ8H30V7BqyiK_O_KRoPb-Hz-Afr51JW2XYwzDvJJdZb-8LpuStcd13nsaYqV7C8q4N70tI7ROkbVsz3RVGGkuQ/s320/IMG_1420.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">campesino house near Cajamarca</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(photos this post courtesy Craig Caparatta)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-18334335798677984612011-08-20T10:20:00.020-10:002011-09-23T05:50:31.466-10:00Segment 41: Riobamba, Ecuador to San Ignacio, Peru (July 12 - August 10, 2011)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQh2ZuenwF6YHUsByaKXPHfdkd4pE5ZtZsQ93S9q6_rW8xKxEjBLLTS0vrRV6y1YvRmlIiBjgIv-pDbcXmkmZmM2W0mVXxpV9SuRJ9EonBkjUuxh6TX52xou4woGpKWLFaJ4tnsFANEQ/s1600/IMG_0901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQh2ZuenwF6YHUsByaKXPHfdkd4pE5ZtZsQ93S9q6_rW8xKxEjBLLTS0vrRV6y1YvRmlIiBjgIv-pDbcXmkmZmM2W0mVXxpV9SuRJ9EonBkjUuxh6TX52xou4woGpKWLFaJ4tnsFANEQ/s320/IMG_0901.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">In the Riobamba fire station, turns out one of the firemen is a guitarist and singer, so we exchanged several songs. He taught us some Ecuadorean and Bolivian folk songs, and we taught him some American ones. That is Craig on the mandolin, which he has just brought back from New York.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">From Riobamba, Jeff travelled south through the high cordillera of central Ecuador (Alausí-Cuenca-Saraguro-Loja); Jason and Sonia travelled down to Macas and went south through the Orient (Macas-Gualaquiza-Zamora-Loja). We would meet up again in Vilcabamba... unfortunately, this segment remains largely undocumented, due to ongoing camera problems. Some words of advice: NEVER PURCHASE NIKON CAMERAS; they have consistent failures, and the worst customer service of any company we have experienced. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-c0CjGCMHir4-95MH1L4GLRjZoFwqKTGelaaA5koMA2RwY2g3Nzuumq__r6AXABZzDTv5KiK1eTxvkhw7Nmv7Ng7srj1jpnbQ9lPE6dy36YJiRrPibi7MmcDmxAB5FyWUP0p-LbZsA/s1600/tambo4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" naa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-c0CjGCMHir4-95MH1L4GLRjZoFwqKTGelaaA5koMA2RwY2g3Nzuumq__r6AXABZzDTv5KiK1eTxvkhw7Nmv7Ng7srj1jpnbQ9lPE6dy36YJiRrPibi7MmcDmxAB5FyWUP0p-LbZsA/s400/tambo4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Jeff with the friendly firemen of Tambo, up in the high sierra of Ecuador. On this occasion, the bomberos really came through, as it was a cold, rainy, windy night in Tambo, after a hellacious nearly-100km day of </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">riding in very mountainous terrain... (photos by Renso Montalvo, Tambo fireman)...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOyp-iO5ADtYCEwcsvDqwszE1aOcGZ05gHbJQjDdIC69qAUhR-NU_WvCRhQ9WQ8O8KnieAOZiDdH7dFLRgVDTuzAlV0CxIt_38hGsY1xvzcHKzbi2OTVegPGyFHZMgbY-2sJ98IJ2GCw/s1600/tambo1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" naa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOyp-iO5ADtYCEwcsvDqwszE1aOcGZ05gHbJQjDdIC69qAUhR-NU_WvCRhQ9WQ8O8KnieAOZiDdH7dFLRgVDTuzAlV0CxIt_38hGsY1xvzcHKzbi2OTVegPGyFHZMgbY-2sJ98IJ2GCw/s320/tambo1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(the following 8 images courtesy of Mohamed Zuñiga, Nabón fireman)</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHd__G9oABjI9ERBrsxt88d3zUu0EbcDNycqTP0pqS6hMgrQwg6lfwE2fXqDw618qFzuxqKrffdAM-y2RqbHJRhmqOTaMYdQWWcof7PbPS7rChfxIaY29uu-mYs1K_tiwNFCQROY5PzA/s1600/nabon6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHd__G9oABjI9ERBrsxt88d3zUu0EbcDNycqTP0pqS6hMgrQwg6lfwE2fXqDw618qFzuxqKrffdAM-y2RqbHJRhmqOTaMYdQWWcof7PbPS7rChfxIaY29uu-mYs1K_tiwNFCQROY5PzA/s320/nabon6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">agriculture in the high cordillera</div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86P1ZmN-9AZD2hj5-a_BWRNnC_Uubbu3Nzo8FnPImhkDOpvfVIFn1rxRC0NnwYCX7m6OOlZ3961gidQZWDGywnjC640OKKXcn2cdfDo1SWuQA4Uw7ikRmCDO1PMmheLpd023563K-NQ/s1600/nabon12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86P1ZmN-9AZD2hj5-a_BWRNnC_Uubbu3Nzo8FnPImhkDOpvfVIFn1rxRC0NnwYCX7m6OOlZ3961gidQZWDGywnjC640OKKXcn2cdfDo1SWuQA4Uw7ikRmCDO1PMmheLpd023563K-NQ/s320/nabon12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center">... a common sight, fog rolling in over the páramos...</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdYMeMfVnoMF9oNoJY8P7Bfdxf2rfEGS7NshfoLuaKqxNf5A4A8Sf1Xl_DbC5BwSxObkSuVu5V1vG6t7XK15TUrznVA7kyafPR5a7za-19u1CNtemM6xtI7Cn5LBAd7gB5Rg__zPMBw/s1600/nabon11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdYMeMfVnoMF9oNoJY8P7Bfdxf2rfEGS7NshfoLuaKqxNf5A4A8Sf1Xl_DbC5BwSxObkSuVu5V1vG6t7XK15TUrznVA7kyafPR5a7za-19u1CNtemM6xtI7Cn5LBAd7gB5Rg__zPMBw/s400/nabon11.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5naEabz3UVbItkzHe9c0vMuv8jA_gBSr6lY4Y9aLe6xWhBTzLj2JEaDEYvQmAlevQ2Y2iIFakum8Xj2ML1ByUSNinmj4rhYvm2limSOv-96GOKyeRnPrcfR9kHuMn6amsLoDfQNfc-A/s1600/nabon3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5naEabz3UVbItkzHe9c0vMuv8jA_gBSr6lY4Y9aLe6xWhBTzLj2JEaDEYvQmAlevQ2Y2iIFakum8Xj2ML1ByUSNinmj4rhYvm2limSOv-96GOKyeRnPrcfR9kHuMn6amsLoDfQNfc-A/s320/nabon3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center">... Nabón, a lovely town between Cuenca and Loja...</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFpRILcBqfT1zeQMFp0lLF2YZhH4fmynJaVNpL1LeVUfELInMN_EK8DMM7nPTVPFVo-bCmSZkh-oKb2OP_G4DPRAqjdX8xYc9Gfw70pIF7wCtQC-CgO2_2r25PPpxMEBlavC7Cbr01RQ/s1600/nabon2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFpRILcBqfT1zeQMFp0lLF2YZhH4fmynJaVNpL1LeVUfELInMN_EK8DMM7nPTVPFVo-bCmSZkh-oKb2OP_G4DPRAqjdX8xYc9Gfw70pIF7wCtQC-CgO2_2r25PPpxMEBlavC7Cbr01RQ/s320/nabon2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW_sFRq2aWeBvt6ILmN-96smL9SokOyL7mV6J-9abgNY7vQlHH-Xy2LzjYpQXfbO2XPpRk2d0QGAidrunCO3muYI6A4gB3FZjchXQ_7-TnEwZfudYmNOf_AmCQcLHBi5bmmqg3D4wwZg/s1600/nabon1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW_sFRq2aWeBvt6ILmN-96smL9SokOyL7mV6J-9abgNY7vQlHH-Xy2LzjYpQXfbO2XPpRk2d0QGAidrunCO3muYI6A4gB3FZjchXQ_7-TnEwZfudYmNOf_AmCQcLHBi5bmmqg3D4wwZg/s320/nabon1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center">... traditional festival in Nabón, which proudly preserves its cultural heritage...</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-cXyWPCZpsFdr8u9hzxmMzaSJWiL3EGYW9tKgLi4-8uu1IZBEhJ05YvX7biaEKyXzx6Q1eS3_l0vXljkpD9nhXjQY47Xmw6xdfCrJ6KTI0Sg5dIUSIP2DkHiVh3IZzLgTZAWiT-9GKQ/s1600/nabon4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-cXyWPCZpsFdr8u9hzxmMzaSJWiL3EGYW9tKgLi4-8uu1IZBEhJ05YvX7biaEKyXzx6Q1eS3_l0vXljkpD9nhXjQY47Xmw6xdfCrJ6KTI0Sg5dIUSIP2DkHiVh3IZzLgTZAWiT-9GKQ/s320/nabon4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwY9o-5-aWGvALkSotfQYG1Ohu_UsId0HL1RW_z6H19TbRT-vodM6Gns621lgTjuJ6G5bTsnYsTV6tQtEvfIvaD4zYE2wrodBRaH680rl8h8gEEfY4velKw_0k_QloUIuWZhzf7lgcQ/s1600/nabon13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwY9o-5-aWGvALkSotfQYG1Ohu_UsId0HL1RW_z6H19TbRT-vodM6Gns621lgTjuJ6G5bTsnYsTV6tQtEvfIvaD4zYE2wrodBRaH680rl8h8gEEfY4velKw_0k_QloUIuWZhzf7lgcQ/s320/nabon13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">late afternoon in the cordillera near Nabón</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div align="center"><br />
Now in Vilcabamba, in far southern Ecuador, on a day hike with two friends: Stephane and Laura... (following four photos courtesy Laura Thomson)</div><div align="center"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibX8kWH7akJrBdE5dn88pQnYN3NMCwHqgXlmJLgoQl8utNQq5wLWD7whEC_9qZTvYfrJ9ODlTqnyMEw9i22jpgoOgBl_YWBO4jRLNf-cx9jzN-6bdI7og9B_LQ0PnZaCi2B_XvdTdDcA/s1600/jeff3-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibX8kWH7akJrBdE5dn88pQnYN3NMCwHqgXlmJLgoQl8utNQq5wLWD7whEC_9qZTvYfrJ9ODlTqnyMEw9i22jpgoOgBl_YWBO4jRLNf-cx9jzN-6bdI7og9B_LQ0PnZaCi2B_XvdTdDcA/s320/jeff3-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... here we are climbing nearby Mandango Mountain, fantastic scenery...</div></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPuE2wYPsGJk4rdbDrFjcTNEGUAP8FdTK7xxlBKX7qVfddtbi3VXk59GomvT7gJ0_TCilB-PSGjT4gRPhXktXZOUA4MXu9w1G4l6srrxD7j86OqjCqIU71bVnw5-mCdwhjRdgW1K8xxQ/s1600/jeff44-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPuE2wYPsGJk4rdbDrFjcTNEGUAP8FdTK7xxlBKX7qVfddtbi3VXk59GomvT7gJ0_TCilB-PSGjT4gRPhXktXZOUA4MXu9w1G4l6srrxD7j86OqjCqIU71bVnw5-mCdwhjRdgW1K8xxQ/s320/jeff44-2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div align="center"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmoH2OmseeuR1oq4kZwa9sS9MgVvvHXng9ueSM4ZaH1zwy7UJ4JalJI6YjpO7-dM02R-TNnZSMjUYnsxfEMw0aXzRQ9_F0pcP2yA4rEEVZ3rs1Hxr__yOoJJ0ZqGYM22Sgue8Y8EWPnQ/s1600/jeff5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmoH2OmseeuR1oq4kZwa9sS9MgVvvHXng9ueSM4ZaH1zwy7UJ4JalJI6YjpO7-dM02R-TNnZSMjUYnsxfEMw0aXzRQ9_F0pcP2yA4rEEVZ3rs1Hxr__yOoJJ0ZqGYM22Sgue8Y8EWPnQ/s320/jeff5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> view from Mandango summit<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5SsDOYisP0E7H5S7RelgI28nCD-1ZOkMtlibM_U3CqfUb8aL9nk22cH9DalAJEFj9yvszoiSVAq8E1PnkVVvQWPC6e9-x_baNPbRyQVEBSuZydb5UXUbsmt7QqAO3gzXq7PZDMI9mtQ/s1600/jeff1-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5SsDOYisP0E7H5S7RelgI28nCD-1ZOkMtlibM_U3CqfUb8aL9nk22cH9DalAJEFj9yvszoiSVAq8E1PnkVVvQWPC6e9-x_baNPbRyQVEBSuZydb5UXUbsmt7QqAO3gzXq7PZDMI9mtQ/s320/jeff1-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">view of Vilcabamba below</div><br />
</div><div align="center">(the remaining photographs in this post thanks to Craig Caparatta)</div><div align="center"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_fHksmwiHhKJ3Zk0QhUcuNkpDttyLh8ogi7dNnelVs3HU4bNuZa1MFyKnbj2I1n-yjCrIAseoAoii9sb3VU4JTuUt3yuicnpE6zvjt4yvpt6Up_EatQsP-niUYcNaEmH2nSmIVrdWbA/s1600/IMG_0996.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_fHksmwiHhKJ3Zk0QhUcuNkpDttyLh8ogi7dNnelVs3HU4bNuZa1MFyKnbj2I1n-yjCrIAseoAoii9sb3VU4JTuUt3yuicnpE6zvjt4yvpt6Up_EatQsP-niUYcNaEmH2nSmIVrdWbA/s320/IMG_0996.jpg" width="244" /></a></div>reunited now, the four of us head out of Vilcabamba heading for the border of Ecuador-Peru. This is Craig with a rainbow in the background, rainbows being near-daily events in the hills around Vilcabamba.</div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RbyRoxVxptQJX-tJlRAaD_jwjgDXSQA2m-_CDu9Rss4NLGNC-fCxINk12GKSvc-hvVa86JQlpdmZt3Opzk4i9zzWyVKilGEIMjWc-101Rr0lructIUBYHbTfFpvX-lBJACze9oKoKg/s1600/IMG_0997.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RbyRoxVxptQJX-tJlRAaD_jwjgDXSQA2m-_CDu9Rss4NLGNC-fCxINk12GKSvc-hvVa86JQlpdmZt3Opzk4i9zzWyVKilGEIMjWc-101Rr0lructIUBYHbTfFpvX-lBJACze9oKoKg/s320/IMG_0997.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center">serious road construction<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd6ypP9x_BPvkojuH_Ipo9zH6Y0iPMNA44XaGfmH2w2dvdegTW6MXebvoz2WG7J3ph2Uwd23SSTq54djwolBFdTNzoLvI7yW3xIojdR3ga_znkbOWQKef7WFm0PVdRSoRADQjLCDCBrA/s1600/IMG_0998.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd6ypP9x_BPvkojuH_Ipo9zH6Y0iPMNA44XaGfmH2w2dvdegTW6MXebvoz2WG7J3ph2Uwd23SSTq54djwolBFdTNzoLvI7yW3xIojdR3ga_znkbOWQKef7WFm0PVdRSoRADQjLCDCBrA/s320/IMG_0998.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">climbing up high, on great dirt</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div align="center"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgefmlIeI7KA7OEIUNMN-bddqm2Pqnyp_g6aMBWdZvG68-1UJYcio0UAV_kNQuIYy5pT3zro03W_RHhyphenhyphennqklZEgYl25f3EQKR8Xijbw69zWKVuWumWW5LHoskrz6IcTKyetX4JWIX7Ndg/s1600/IMG_1000-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgefmlIeI7KA7OEIUNMN-bddqm2Pqnyp_g6aMBWdZvG68-1UJYcio0UAV_kNQuIYy5pT3zro03W_RHhyphenhyphennqklZEgYl25f3EQKR8Xijbw69zWKVuWumWW5LHoskrz6IcTKyetX4JWIX7Ndg/s200/IMG_1000-3.jpg" width="156" /></a></div>... vegetation in the highlands bordering Podocarpus National Park...</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZwJ9MWA0Jb5UbmnH2KtnzcPImc-vQjD8FLOuIT3t__kmwFLyu6FTg884HNhqF4_DZYIMPNgU58FKsxeufiawWziXdrQp0ujtSY2T3X9P5b76v0RlI3RCvrMy-o2ZVbOu0j2VdWrH5g/s1600/IMG_1003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZwJ9MWA0Jb5UbmnH2KtnzcPImc-vQjD8FLOuIT3t__kmwFLyu6FTg884HNhqF4_DZYIMPNgU58FKsxeufiawWziXdrQp0ujtSY2T3X9P5b76v0RlI3RCvrMy-o2ZVbOu0j2VdWrH5g/s200/IMG_1003.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkdDvOVdzAcjbOEgal8wcjUDQu-rOoeTP09vKt_wQX-z0jvkIiHsp4537HB1xydiqQY8h46cCwRpYTMTGjC9Oe8itWSd1JwnantPzLVI_tXrF3P55APd-5VP6J4yJoyinJEmsQ11BWJw/s1600/IMG_1006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkdDvOVdzAcjbOEgal8wcjUDQu-rOoeTP09vKt_wQX-z0jvkIiHsp4537HB1xydiqQY8h46cCwRpYTMTGjC9Oe8itWSd1JwnantPzLVI_tXrF3P55APd-5VP6J4yJoyinJEmsQ11BWJw/s320/IMG_1006.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center">Craig taking in the scene<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDsA-9hPZFoPiSePvp324QZNyzRzCiw24FOaC6wJxyMndgRw2VkwV9CfFBjnCOFhJGcj4TUQC-sHF9f_ajp98zEUyAJ5USUU4j2x-K_tT9QnprucJQ_OlEpDbvN99a6TwnfOYhjF2ywQ/s1600/IMG_1010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDsA-9hPZFoPiSePvp324QZNyzRzCiw24FOaC6wJxyMndgRw2VkwV9CfFBjnCOFhJGcj4TUQC-sHF9f_ajp98zEUyAJ5USUU4j2x-K_tT9QnprucJQ_OlEpDbvN99a6TwnfOYhjF2ywQ/s400/IMG_1010.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center">this was the road we were to descend from the highlands around Podocarpus<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3P9w7c0E0ztbk7Hxd_ngkhsWx_i3IX1378H0f8nivcIyE3S6VNfOfra7Cb2yHng5QYhbsAMZNlies6Hzj4AQBM6Hw5sO96Ey2b_rYgfNz4Q4w7H8jlwauRLMFUvzzk4FY2iG5TIbnkw/s1600/IMG_1011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3P9w7c0E0ztbk7Hxd_ngkhsWx_i3IX1378H0f8nivcIyE3S6VNfOfra7Cb2yHng5QYhbsAMZNlies6Hzj4AQBM6Hw5sO96Ey2b_rYgfNz4Q4w7H8jlwauRLMFUvzzk4FY2iG5TIbnkw/s200/IMG_1011.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div align="center">Sonia lovin' it<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9T0Mur2LATHN8vlCdrK3yEtjqTE-w73-tjdCfhObz3ULmojb3wVvpCnljjP2QJkZv10cBVfCbBq3CJNs9KWKsgx6B29T3llqD2YC1DnDfUeC4g9YTTo1x4a2DxGjj5W4YmBeb3iM8YQ/s1600/IMG_1013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9T0Mur2LATHN8vlCdrK3yEtjqTE-w73-tjdCfhObz3ULmojb3wVvpCnljjP2QJkZv10cBVfCbBq3CJNs9KWKsgx6B29T3llqD2YC1DnDfUeC4g9YTTo1x4a2DxGjj5W4YmBeb3iM8YQ/s320/IMG_1013.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this route has plenty to recommend it, most of all low traffic and insane scenery</div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiy52flfPOjB6vNV1eG_o1UcPolccrsEo1xGZ8hxjCQ2n5KybrtPx_nOX4V66A07uAnjD_LuVfF8L5ii0LozbdpKQcXbkz0T33NDnNZxnENKRSWgYXOFWDRj-IKzrcMHLV6M1pu7H45A/s1600/IMG_1015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiy52flfPOjB6vNV1eG_o1UcPolccrsEo1xGZ8hxjCQ2n5KybrtPx_nOX4V66A07uAnjD_LuVfF8L5ii0LozbdpKQcXbkz0T33NDnNZxnENKRSWgYXOFWDRj-IKzrcMHLV6M1pu7H45A/s400/IMG_1015.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center">approaching Vallodolid</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-5-aLw6G281glJtaKR7FlUE5DGNi4AIs9_XbpQTytoyzaN3HQ929fOcjTbLk9SH5H3cTiu6jA7CET5s8_7N-CnbhAr_XssDaVb2NH0_9sHpFDANK-4Quo1uvUk5ANuCsSz2fXBd7mA/s1600/IMG_1016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-5-aLw6G281glJtaKR7FlUE5DGNi4AIs9_XbpQTytoyzaN3HQ929fOcjTbLk9SH5H3cTiu6jA7CET5s8_7N-CnbhAr_XssDaVb2NH0_9sHpFDANK-4Quo1uvUk5ANuCsSz2fXBd7mA/s200/IMG_1016.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div align="center">this guy was hanging a few feet from our lunch table in Vallodolid<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0rXUMvzV1KRqoKcWmbx6QH81VqFEZj4ZnWBuP8Nu7viKt8R-yw-1XGUjWtbnPFxgxzlIpQMsGQ6e9Tdy8HHk0k5VXQpiDlB6jQN0faXL3OkwfVjIEkQ6NWIYqNsH_JPFajXvSE_-Pjw/s1600/IMG_1017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0rXUMvzV1KRqoKcWmbx6QH81VqFEZj4ZnWBuP8Nu7viKt8R-yw-1XGUjWtbnPFxgxzlIpQMsGQ6e9Tdy8HHk0k5VXQpiDlB6jQN0faXL3OkwfVjIEkQ6NWIYqNsH_JPFajXvSE_-Pjw/s320/IMG_1017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...dropping down past Palanda, we cruised through lush green scenes...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMxrDPE-xINIYrrSj7-bpOOeqlDxLC34xckzZFtfjF9fWtNIAfWq6_F8yWDxQ__Ewh5z5_mfDcJ0QZqd-cgH9UkoUSqx0rhi8fTDRsxKI0bFv6r3L6cFF9Y29YkEM9At_Ya2e10F1JeQ/s1600/IMG_1018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMxrDPE-xINIYrrSj7-bpOOeqlDxLC34xckzZFtfjF9fWtNIAfWq6_F8yWDxQ__Ewh5z5_mfDcJ0QZqd-cgH9UkoUSqx0rhi8fTDRsxKI0bFv6r3L6cFF9Y29YkEM9At_Ya2e10F1JeQ/s320/IMG_1018.jpg" width="242" /></a></div><br />
<div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgH26zqwZ-r9nmyBy3NMbWdwrSbXG1TBpgLrrWolwLE4Ec8CI8ooakFoAwt_GY83hyphenhyphenE8jAOruQzs2XxfpuMeUAs29vecVIVrrOz4szE_sL3Zjm4eV1DlQqUvDL1rjNUKShBvk_DHy8Q/s1600/IMG_1021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgH26zqwZ-r9nmyBy3NMbWdwrSbXG1TBpgLrrWolwLE4Ec8CI8ooakFoAwt_GY83hyphenhyphenE8jAOruQzs2XxfpuMeUAs29vecVIVrrOz4szE_sL3Zjm4eV1DlQqUvDL1rjNUKShBvk_DHy8Q/s400/IMG_1021.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center">... and climbed back up again; here Jason fights a long tough grade</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiumV8c87qoE20s0Kh0ydeCNXz8UV_stIZh7-SHEoJ5xMuDHczli-NxCw-D-IM3Cpdv31IMy79bdcqk1R094t7O8Vm7HiF0a6knwONzakkxIYUi_Gdr7on7DR7WQRpPPXUNgyHpleBH2w/s1600/IMG_1023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiumV8c87qoE20s0Kh0ydeCNXz8UV_stIZh7-SHEoJ5xMuDHczli-NxCw-D-IM3Cpdv31IMy79bdcqk1R094t7O8Vm7HiF0a6knwONzakkxIYUi_Gdr7on7DR7WQRpPPXUNgyHpleBH2w/s320/IMG_1023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center">...incredible, really...</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEyeVIcy2hWVOP0PK5UksrIDA_zW5Pd3Xz-at0vkooZSVwh-fen1DGXNnjVWcg8twPwSHVJRttTYAy4fgWKmB9Ss0kSAJqQbNja3nhQmL3tBdbQe8-ZrurhKQT0k3UkxY9YGykdhhcRA/s1600/IMG_1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEyeVIcy2hWVOP0PK5UksrIDA_zW5Pd3Xz-at0vkooZSVwh-fen1DGXNnjVWcg8twPwSHVJRttTYAy4fgWKmB9Ss0kSAJqQbNja3nhQmL3tBdbQe8-ZrurhKQT0k3UkxY9YGykdhhcRA/s320/IMG_1024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwYYJNgyLXUKNr7qj6CqCIFu-wEaw5km-8ER7QOGmdc5skyjLZcOIXnevf3XFZIfH9KnH8BxeLcN37OLnwxJjXt0xnzxq766XW4bE-MYINa9CgftCA-dhlLpkjSPXF48-dPHHd-eygw/s1600/IMG_1026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwYYJNgyLXUKNr7qj6CqCIFu-wEaw5km-8ER7QOGmdc5skyjLZcOIXnevf3XFZIfH9KnH8BxeLcN37OLnwxJjXt0xnzxq766XW4bE-MYINa9CgftCA-dhlLpkjSPXF48-dPHHd-eygw/s200/IMG_1026.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div align="center">this shrine reads "Jesus of Great Power". Jesus of Great Power is found all over Ecuador, but we're still not sure how he's different from normal Jesus.<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYr_dLm2_Uygk7zOsyXI8TNUr7QiJ9hNVVoY5NBsKX9RBV4hB4WqrP75EJRiBRqpS2SBqTt16JdLqfVkasgKCxipE5JtUsVaGJAvFDAUS8z8xeMKqjZeg4Fj_a8cOWB2FDuDisgwgZ-g/s1600/IMG_1027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYr_dLm2_Uygk7zOsyXI8TNUr7QiJ9hNVVoY5NBsKX9RBV4hB4WqrP75EJRiBRqpS2SBqTt16JdLqfVkasgKCxipE5JtUsVaGJAvFDAUS8z8xeMKqjZeg4Fj_a8cOWB2FDuDisgwgZ-g/s320/IMG_1027.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center">some great descents on this road... here heading towards Isimanchi...</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9WCa5Xc6IBmvuXujDqLhasThIEh5ExONpF0g_s1YDea88SI713dwnVvvkWDLnQuybF0va_9QnnVdX7ECeUKc0xvuqIPazSZ6dYpKZnzvlOueQJi2jL9griY8smRjNOc319aOiAoaNXw/s1600/IMG_1029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9WCa5Xc6IBmvuXujDqLhasThIEh5ExONpF0g_s1YDea88SI713dwnVvvkWDLnQuybF0va_9QnnVdX7ECeUKc0xvuqIPazSZ6dYpKZnzvlOueQJi2jL9griY8smRjNOc319aOiAoaNXw/s320/IMG_1029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center">... where we cooled off in the river<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZdVsS7mVO-vN6KlhZBHlvrfvmCwWmimXp01uELSu0_QtjxvroaL-Hhe2G7vxjVYf0zoeXENUhX8TumR5B2C6QgGYSkqvABZNsekuAmUIzsGkBadQek6mlWjJsRTjGXkJZ_J613lSBkg/s1600/IMG_1030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZdVsS7mVO-vN6KlhZBHlvrfvmCwWmimXp01uELSu0_QtjxvroaL-Hhe2G7vxjVYf0zoeXENUhX8TumR5B2C6QgGYSkqvABZNsekuAmUIzsGkBadQek6mlWjJsRTjGXkJZ_J613lSBkg/s400/IMG_1030.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center">looking back at Zumba as we head towards the border<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD4es0yGfoSoqPqHxYrSEhsYARclftYq9kSaYpf7xSkZUijzpCJvqib0pcpugl_F8oEGB8TBcIaUPOyrHcYRmMratzhdCY5cFlwpEOTlWubMEROiW2PFMcgkzuxIt53cyn_lbDrcNQJQ/s1600/IMG_1033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD4es0yGfoSoqPqHxYrSEhsYARclftYq9kSaYpf7xSkZUijzpCJvqib0pcpugl_F8oEGB8TBcIaUPOyrHcYRmMratzhdCY5cFlwpEOTlWubMEROiW2PFMcgkzuxIt53cyn_lbDrcNQJQ/s320/IMG_1033.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center">a look at the third major climb in less than 24 hours facing us<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyb9PbT5bm2ulQIeT31tHmQUeu4dAUw0lR5Li87xN5pa6S1zqsvsoKitvp44ak5ZNltizkD7qoevKDuHvlzP-OZ9UGiQ4xcJHzU8Ab8050I-YbDqW52ty2ePVvtSTHr91thiagLBycLQ/s1600/IMG_1034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyb9PbT5bm2ulQIeT31tHmQUeu4dAUw0lR5Li87xN5pa6S1zqsvsoKitvp44ak5ZNltizkD7qoevKDuHvlzP-OZ9UGiQ4xcJHzU8Ab8050I-YbDqW52ty2ePVvtSTHr91thiagLBycLQ/s400/IMG_1034.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center">view from the top, near the border now<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdD8qCk17v7Xeyr0k6Jmt-gy-qryJREIW-uaURy3o7typuBSqylqJNV9TfPtgmB-uQ2DIiAqXswSQa_ssh30ZWW4NMRstUDodDjKFArUxoqs8Dk1LHSO58WtI2ynjaWj8PLWs7vT61Uw/s1600/IMG_1037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdD8qCk17v7Xeyr0k6Jmt-gy-qryJREIW-uaURy3o7typuBSqylqJNV9TfPtgmB-uQ2DIiAqXswSQa_ssh30ZWW4NMRstUDodDjKFArUxoqs8Dk1LHSO58WtI2ynjaWj8PLWs7vT61Uw/s200/IMG_1037.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPgMccVtiEbBxGuMyAAzZSJmz7OByWjEXI6aABNa96mhxDbhj-JdoeVnRYuJTrZn1oezN2NILutiF2FhmuyWYVrUJSo3VT9kPiyR9y-KxoZ9HIour8ESoDsyI8a-KbMpA86EQEuruIw/s1600/IMG_1038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPgMccVtiEbBxGuMyAAzZSJmz7OByWjEXI6aABNa96mhxDbhj-JdoeVnRYuJTrZn1oezN2NILutiF2FhmuyWYVrUJSo3VT9kPiyR9y-KxoZ9HIour8ESoDsyI8a-KbMpA86EQEuruIw/s320/IMG_1038.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="center"> awesome scenery for our last day in Ecuador<br />
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</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVRxf7vO8gDvL4HfoEfnnvV3P5vjDxH2do7rkJU22DpEEFhKmywrA0kwe1CTXpBCImDaAdBYgNdAYSXdW6rjcaoMmvX_L3ChYca-l1xHG__UvSaTWvOQ_2_lCaHuov8S5r-s-cYxaiXA/s1600/IMG_1040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVRxf7vO8gDvL4HfoEfnnvV3P5vjDxH2do7rkJU22DpEEFhKmywrA0kwe1CTXpBCImDaAdBYgNdAYSXdW6rjcaoMmvX_L3ChYca-l1xHG__UvSaTWvOQ_2_lCaHuov8S5r-s-cYxaiXA/s200/IMG_1040.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div align="center">...now descending towards Peru...</div><div align="center" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxubNQgB2kZUtk1vGAKNCNqtwbcqhWanMA-loIWS4CAwZM43XrmzsynasYDgLRjmREdwuKpvORreWxqaDqNT9UJnKWxfypP0zylDymHZgt2EkvF6DiYBeLf32PFjudX7vFAqpYorbUYg/s1600/IMG_1042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxubNQgB2kZUtk1vGAKNCNqtwbcqhWanMA-loIWS4CAwZM43XrmzsynasYDgLRjmREdwuKpvORreWxqaDqNT9UJnKWxfypP0zylDymHZgt2EkvF6DiYBeLf32PFjudX7vFAqpYorbUYg/s400/IMG_1042.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipk-XU2K1ytZeUSb_K0t7ER_UgOMj63qnlCjXlQJc9ceSRr2en4X40puDubfag-Fuc2K1sh_ZUCWyVdwt-tC8e0akM-knnnvc-CphSJRMtfbSakusLCDgcLjkzEl3sy_KuCfAoxWuhcw/s1600/IMG_1045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipk-XU2K1ytZeUSb_K0t7ER_UgOMj63qnlCjXlQJc9ceSRr2en4X40puDubfag-Fuc2K1sh_ZUCWyVdwt-tC8e0akM-knnnvc-CphSJRMtfbSakusLCDgcLjkzEl3sy_KuCfAoxWuhcw/s320/IMG_1045.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFK8bxHUN5Tfch9gd8HSbr0yHuNFpLF0v62w0ITcUtgVoI03lz5O_O1aITNxTNQzhgwvH6IJUCTdOIWqL4tTjT8l5s5YvGDWMjRVWV8uNqFLhrYNgLFzMJW0kj8GMJCqXbhVS80EHORA/s1600/IMG_1047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFK8bxHUN5Tfch9gd8HSbr0yHuNFpLF0v62w0ITcUtgVoI03lz5O_O1aITNxTNQzhgwvH6IJUCTdOIWqL4tTjT8l5s5YvGDWMjRVWV8uNqFLhrYNgLFzMJW0kj8GMJCqXbhVS80EHORA/s320/IMG_1047.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> this river forms the border; we celebrate with a cool dip on the Peru side</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddkiWGTBCEjzE1pX0n27fDUM-zzNW0l_h7F7ndVswtFQ7b25g_9q4WI-qHmTqmYyz7De9JINWWgqzMvEw0QoUi446zWtc69HkpHG-89sCJzqrr3rZNd3zf3uay_fRHs710ELbQUkqIQ/s1600/IMG_1049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgddkiWGTBCEjzE1pX0n27fDUM-zzNW0l_h7F7ndVswtFQ7b25g_9q4WI-qHmTqmYyz7De9JINWWgqzMvEw0QoUi446zWtc69HkpHG-89sCJzqrr3rZNd3zf3uay_fRHs710ELbQUkqIQ/s320/IMG_1049.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">... our first night in Peru, we camped on some land where the people were harvesting coffee for export... this was dawn the following morning...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqOOJ4G1VICbEO-e1TQJnXfr9HFUKBLfuF40Fus8PCVyfl-HnbZjYPxLOrmPOYhTEWfKeZooaqW0m4CW6jIIgHMzMnYF41lqb-vY45NOXJBW7Xemqox8GBQEEtg1-PuZwQskXO5-VKDw/s1600/IMG_1050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqOOJ4G1VICbEO-e1TQJnXfr9HFUKBLfuF40Fus8PCVyfl-HnbZjYPxLOrmPOYhTEWfKeZooaqW0m4CW6jIIgHMzMnYF41lqb-vY45NOXJBW7Xemqox8GBQEEtg1-PuZwQskXO5-VKDw/s400/IMG_1050.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCOc5w-hsy7Po854PHsC1XvVy9drHxg1NdAbLfolnr8Uw8x1fItUT5s-UnAFNXqQ45EBwqxKaj5CIAU56482iirVvB4HAHj5ByorLPYU69Jqm5_Qp0uGJ6w2DETwBviJigGa-dwpq5pg/s1600/IMG_1051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCOc5w-hsy7Po854PHsC1XvVy9drHxg1NdAbLfolnr8Uw8x1fItUT5s-UnAFNXqQ45EBwqxKaj5CIAU56482iirVvB4HAHj5ByorLPYU69Jqm5_Qp0uGJ6w2DETwBviJigGa-dwpq5pg/s320/IMG_1051.jpg" width="244" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...the road on the Peruvian side of the border is even better than the Ecuadorean side...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcqmF9zLkfA28sil7gw3M_1CemVgPnMX2N30NoNdj0CeDjk2cf26PTlnrKifqkbFgclY0Pi43KZg5PhKVphpMtLhyphenhyphenxqENfcL4RZKTslH6huZUqCr6Q32cXfECqZpl7eq01cHHDWP-Yjw/s1600/IMG_1052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcqmF9zLkfA28sil7gw3M_1CemVgPnMX2N30NoNdj0CeDjk2cf26PTlnrKifqkbFgclY0Pi43KZg5PhKVphpMtLhyphenhyphenxqENfcL4RZKTslH6huZUqCr6Q32cXfECqZpl7eq01cHHDWP-Yjw/s400/IMG_1052.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh856uXh-HxrMwpLgWh_Pd-JEeTCdZ_opNL9ygVmH-L79UuHCpDKFFNlLFA5qo98Mf22YKg8Q0-r4Dj_YD0JKqPwW6loiWCwfiCK1bFwWBS_ep7_ZJRGrVe7I8KIIhe_UFmtxQ2ssJ4Xw/s1600/IMG_1054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh856uXh-HxrMwpLgWh_Pd-JEeTCdZ_opNL9ygVmH-L79UuHCpDKFFNlLFA5qo98Mf22YKg8Q0-r4Dj_YD0JKqPwW6loiWCwfiCK1bFwWBS_ep7_ZJRGrVe7I8KIIhe_UFmtxQ2ssJ4Xw/s320/IMG_1054.jpg" width="242" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">mildly graded, great surface; we had a good time here</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbATBM4j6D5toFCd4W_bNc7Z8wzWfoxndQGfLbo4oUfjj5OHuEuG7rU3XOx89QsOmZc1q0XKrWvw0DC4CUo4Y5pQTM0dqHmRuSQZugXvBJ1l3Cvwb8nr4oKxTwMw1OWvekferFJZP8iw/s1600/IMG_1055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbATBM4j6D5toFCd4W_bNc7Z8wzWfoxndQGfLbo4oUfjj5OHuEuG7rU3XOx89QsOmZc1q0XKrWvw0DC4CUo4Y5pQTM0dqHmRuSQZugXvBJ1l3Cvwb8nr4oKxTwMw1OWvekferFJZP8iw/s320/IMG_1055.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">arriving in Namballe, Peruvian border town </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9VVd-33ZVPwP7C8vZXTt3Q4QzgF_5p3utMTC2gWo7FP1HhWvH561vHWIWt_qDbOyPM5PrpvnHsqLUIqK6ynp2fXlvS1K6roGusFKdBzuwhhtqflva753ZFI92LZwcvfzbdm6BZMe6uw/s1600/IMG_1060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9VVd-33ZVPwP7C8vZXTt3Q4QzgF_5p3utMTC2gWo7FP1HhWvH561vHWIWt_qDbOyPM5PrpvnHsqLUIqK6ynp2fXlvS1K6roGusFKdBzuwhhtqflva753ZFI92LZwcvfzbdm6BZMe6uw/s320/IMG_1060.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">...Namballe's principal export is coffee, and here they are drying their recent harvest in the town soccer fields...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGBDZQfljGQjKBcbnpGOT7Fd01DcorE1-_1Sj13WX4XpEbAmSAxGn52UzEqYMYAigkxMG24aZW_hpqOr7F7GfZE2RwwSTqU5-f5j6lotb4DOn3OBJLO_cbvfWkQvUEIGTUASsLzfYqaw/s1600/IMG_1057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGBDZQfljGQjKBcbnpGOT7Fd01DcorE1-_1Sj13WX4XpEbAmSAxGn52UzEqYMYAigkxMG24aZW_hpqOr7F7GfZE2RwwSTqU5-f5j6lotb4DOn3OBJLO_cbvfWkQvUEIGTUASsLzfYqaw/s320/IMG_1057.jpg" width="243" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgem35nP0TzbhXVlD-0FiEJdx6wCEuJiicW9UQ-NoENEbv4mXF5BbmKlLfiOfq9Cf5yiIJn8lP0waXu8wsbhMHJVnFF4CDh24oYacmyVTYnOXcPv2wFGWxwkTHuSVbW5YUL-IeeVMGY4g/s1600/IMG_1061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgem35nP0TzbhXVlD-0FiEJdx6wCEuJiicW9UQ-NoENEbv4mXF5BbmKlLfiOfq9Cf5yiIJn8lP0waXu8wsbhMHJVnFF4CDh24oYacmyVTYnOXcPv2wFGWxwkTHuSVbW5YUL-IeeVMGY4g/s320/IMG_1061.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">on our way to San Ignacio now, Jeff entertains a group of curious local kids</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VdVvMwyNc20YBp7CAZajmE_z7ctvMWnzXrEQYPfRUskRoOrhALJVm8KkDemigknUw5ZJvPBGbUzVqt8J81TNBT4qzs-QWqyELMfAbOq2LiN5-8DYiVMfYvHzlAoxKHBASSdMEqQFHQ/s1600/IMG_1066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" qaa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3VdVvMwyNc20YBp7CAZajmE_z7ctvMWnzXrEQYPfRUskRoOrhALJVm8KkDemigknUw5ZJvPBGbUzVqt8J81TNBT4qzs-QWqyELMfAbOq2LiN5-8DYiVMfYvHzlAoxKHBASSdMEqQFHQ/s200/IMG_1066.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">one obvious difference in Peru is the use of moto-taxis (ubiquitous), here seen in San Ignacio</div><br />
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</div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-50457928844825049132011-07-19T12:59:00.000-10:002011-07-19T12:59:50.940-10:00Segment 40: Quito, Ecuador to Riobamba, Ecuador (June 22 - July 11, 2011)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrry-9pGf5QpoK9tEITD40QXPNMaAb76-Xx9UjzL0q101jfefX2rtqe9QUV85YHWjAB5BhVOo6RYXkI_A8YnONZzGllbiV32zVYGYQtHCZ4VAVQbx-7Gvw6huFcMph4NaCd2vRReQxxQ/s1600/IMG_0788.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Once in Quito we got familiar with the truly important things, such as one-dollar smoothies and all-natural carrot-alfalfa juices:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujMmiUJ8_j1QkPWqxrf_KKaVCA3yKreWd07pIlnEbyLd29PbUxzl8Rcn4XyH0dYdyF3d7QoBPWx6jFw9wSftCqzZVrcUgJWUh1bJHWl5r3RsDwrO6Irxed5k6sHt-H6KgkyfWGhq_WA/s1600/IMG_0717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujMmiUJ8_j1QkPWqxrf_KKaVCA3yKreWd07pIlnEbyLd29PbUxzl8Rcn4XyH0dYdyF3d7QoBPWx6jFw9wSftCqzZVrcUgJWUh1bJHWl5r3RsDwrO6Irxed5k6sHt-H6KgkyfWGhq_WA/s320/IMG_0717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">juice bar in the old part of Quito</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1hzQYLHDzzp0xBm4tft9G0QMVMGfrZ3VIeUXywH4x_PxpGsStaazbvvCIv4jV6z1mdhX4trDKqCbPmDH4OF5CrpcB_j7wt8_uCenEDxCLXcZk_Gp09exDLPzZd2tMCaRjSqsM-Dva2Q/s1600/IMG_0720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1hzQYLHDzzp0xBm4tft9G0QMVMGfrZ3VIeUXywH4x_PxpGsStaazbvvCIv4jV6z1mdhX4trDKqCbPmDH4OF5CrpcB_j7wt8_uCenEDxCLXcZk_Gp09exDLPzZd2tMCaRjSqsM-Dva2Q/s320/IMG_0720.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... some scenes from the very atmospheric historic center of Quito...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFV2g9b1E4n_SgnQKhDWdfKCnYVa1l92VwjOzOjED3bjDZ_XoR1Ld7p3ckZPbI9jceWzS6qjooJktmbhuunLvIT8E2mFd3GmV3VMivcO6LmcoqBo8Xo8sbW3h7Ykb7EA560-NGXZmz_A/s1600/IMG_0721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0c7I_Sh3d84tAoX-8pHMXTGi64iGi3-nwuU9giSwqw32LyOE6i6LjfcJfKB22iuWH2hf9e02T3dym7jieB6xFv3qcbkB3kH7GudUJWFmceR28I1BfYpkp7cfDpKmIZ1mllepnsnNgfA/s1600/IMG_0725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0c7I_Sh3d84tAoX-8pHMXTGi64iGi3-nwuU9giSwqw32LyOE6i6LjfcJfKB22iuWH2hf9e02T3dym7jieB6xFv3qcbkB3kH7GudUJWFmceR28I1BfYpkp7cfDpKmIZ1mllepnsnNgfA/s320/IMG_0725.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6fKkdgcmXnqBe_I3Wf9GwdRMOS17Hi56p4P3t0Uaz-fjkNeRtcq7wJYbapB74QDnJd6-23vcuqPe4JiQRpwGNBacAypo7RFhoZhmuCzxB7r9sd2NwGsTC9ZXo55y_DGE_ptd6VPOKw/s1600/IMG_0726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ6fKkdgcmXnqBe_I3Wf9GwdRMOS17Hi56p4P3t0Uaz-fjkNeRtcq7wJYbapB74QDnJd6-23vcuqPe4JiQRpwGNBacAypo7RFhoZhmuCzxB7r9sd2NwGsTC9ZXo55y_DGE_ptd6VPOKw/s400/IMG_0726.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Interestingly enough, like the rest of Ecuador, Quito has undergone some serious changes in recent years. In 1997 for example, when Jeff was here for a month, the old town was nearly off-limits to tourists, with tales of bag-snatching and violent robbery and evil taxi drivers abounding, as well as the streets being full of people selling everything under the sun. Now the streets are clean, orderly, and the talk of crime has nearly disappeared - its hard enough to get your guitar out on the street without being dismissed by three policemen inside of two minutes. And the streets are full of tourists, both Ecuadoreans and foreigners.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFV2g9b1E4n_SgnQKhDWdfKCnYVa1l92VwjOzOjED3bjDZ_XoR1Ld7p3ckZPbI9jceWzS6qjooJktmbhuunLvIT8E2mFd3GmV3VMivcO6LmcoqBo8Xo8sbW3h7Ykb7EA560-NGXZmz_A/s1600/IMG_0721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFV2g9b1E4n_SgnQKhDWdfKCnYVa1l92VwjOzOjED3bjDZ_XoR1Ld7p3ckZPbI9jceWzS6qjooJktmbhuunLvIT8E2mFd3GmV3VMivcO6LmcoqBo8Xo8sbW3h7Ykb7EA560-NGXZmz_A/s200/IMG_0721.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">One of the best parts about Quito: cheap vegetarian lunches all over the place, and the consumers are Quiteños, not foreigners. For about $2, you can get a pretty full lunch menu, with soup, main dish, juice, and dessert.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpUagWSQhQ08ahhFsdW7v8jKBfYbgmUDYOnc1IUvpZZEbm9DSRwYvBjMfCjkLl-OHZEUtNT1LyNSqWXfr0DC_CMrqv23vTwaikVp_quvXbuw8buWKDKlSYBI2GZvX_RVmmXzSPK_6u9Q/s1600/IMG_0728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpUagWSQhQ08ahhFsdW7v8jKBfYbgmUDYOnc1IUvpZZEbm9DSRwYvBjMfCjkLl-OHZEUtNT1LyNSqWXfr0DC_CMrqv23vTwaikVp_quvXbuw8buWKDKlSYBI2GZvX_RVmmXzSPK_6u9Q/s320/IMG_0728.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">This was our favorite amongst Quito's vegetarian eateries: Govinda's. Excellent ambience, generous servings of food:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0KOpj2vZ-T7XA8A9F-X-j8zBdZUSnvz4N790_WZWtbzGXjz_B9jsbgT6D6Ma5a3AunkfyQqner0aZedk7d4CXPDJF01nR6Io2WMFiOnu2L7fRX47mkm8kLlV2L8cwpF2CLZGuIi9Uyw/s1600/IMG_0727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0KOpj2vZ-T7XA8A9F-X-j8zBdZUSnvz4N790_WZWtbzGXjz_B9jsbgT6D6Ma5a3AunkfyQqner0aZedk7d4CXPDJF01nR6Io2WMFiOnu2L7fRX47mkm8kLlV2L8cwpF2CLZGuIi9Uyw/s200/IMG_0727.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Govinda's lunch menu costs $1.80. A dream for hungry cyclists.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxuFnb01fTNSTMWIewma8bWFU6yu09atIQM_1VhuHFM9CIvnNxuKH7J71lRsXys_3kGORFy6Iq9qm92xWiHO-k9ivZszG6hpEG7pt5_KLOdoR_QIGOO3CPGTlCThvZJ6Y2nCeZd8ABKQ/s1600/IMG_0731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxuFnb01fTNSTMWIewma8bWFU6yu09atIQM_1VhuHFM9CIvnNxuKH7J71lRsXys_3kGORFy6Iq9qm92xWiHO-k9ivZszG6hpEG7pt5_KLOdoR_QIGOO3CPGTlCThvZJ6Y2nCeZd8ABKQ/s320/IMG_0731.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">While playing in the Plaza del Teatro in the historic part of Quito (the only place the police would allow us to play!), we had several enthusiastic folks get involved in the entertainment. The one seen above sang four songs with us (música bomba), and had most of the crowd singing, too. To watch a short video, in which Craig joins in, see the following YouTube link:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qn9wu8Z-6BY">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qn9wu8Z-6BY</a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRJb4tFbI-OtC7p-uhuhCKARS5EkpDSHbpEyq5q23d26lAm0FC93XbzZO9Tu-_gBuLiQ3W66aO_LgQZ23EPHjfllcKzvbu9TsiG7kXWVOhvZfrZ54W_LbzndTzgFtCv1I_NXggnrkhw/s1600/IMG_0734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRJb4tFbI-OtC7p-uhuhCKARS5EkpDSHbpEyq5q23d26lAm0FC93XbzZO9Tu-_gBuLiQ3W66aO_LgQZ23EPHjfllcKzvbu9TsiG7kXWVOhvZfrZ54W_LbzndTzgFtCv1I_NXggnrkhw/s320/IMG_0734.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">later that same afternoon, with Jason and Sonja now, we had another big crowd, and another visitor on guitar </div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP23-9sWRPB8VsHpkO14bMSnF4LCarmb-SyKHJDpK0hXUUFlF1E4LgoVOfmRu4fNFK4slSmw7HdSMfsraCeBtA5z7P5oYHPuBWYLrXROjRpN0_U4hXqz-VoHdim-Ox9RpsQ3ipbBPuXA/s1600/IMG_0738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP23-9sWRPB8VsHpkO14bMSnF4LCarmb-SyKHJDpK0hXUUFlF1E4LgoVOfmRu4fNFK4slSmw7HdSMfsraCeBtA5z7P5oYHPuBWYLrXROjRpN0_U4hXqz-VoHdim-Ox9RpsQ3ipbBPuXA/s200/IMG_0738.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">in Otavalo, grilled plantains and corn</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-0cvHD89ol-Xl7r9sd7-wI6LjN81vlbhVEdVdEERv5yRA_K1XtGLlk9ot0c0FAxeNSDrmF4PC3h79_GLFL1EqXefwXUJtbWZ_9nJ6GjObBK2QF4Q4I_BcBn0LbyimQWSJMlTJVoRGiw/s1600/IMG_0740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-0cvHD89ol-Xl7r9sd7-wI6LjN81vlbhVEdVdEERv5yRA_K1XtGLlk9ot0c0FAxeNSDrmF4PC3h79_GLFL1EqXefwXUJtbWZ_9nJ6GjObBK2QF4Q4I_BcBn0LbyimQWSJMlTJVoRGiw/s200/IMG_0740.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">this is to be Jason Dylan's album picture (Otavalo)</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSwI13iWYhbifm9xgwpCTOc7gl5GPvZ57TjFinQPkDDTQksYcHV78-plwySEMOMYUoD44Fa2aj4yh0-a_44DZmOIirZ-gASE8GPYxf38sHZgmnLe5EkLLYOGILis8YI7hNQgsXLjDCg/s1600/IMG_0743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieSwI13iWYhbifm9xgwpCTOc7gl5GPvZ57TjFinQPkDDTQksYcHV78-plwySEMOMYUoD44Fa2aj4yh0-a_44DZmOIirZ-gASE8GPYxf38sHZgmnLe5EkLLYOGILis8YI7hNQgsXLjDCg/s200/IMG_0743.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">dried foods at Otavalo market</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjybBsDmWAQemoudA-MYMCWK58Djqm1tnetYASqgrpkQmZu6hWA384bB4NTE5skGtKD0ahFdMW8QuKboiPPmjyLlVznYjFhYTN-g8K3ZCpTYZsCJ56UFBL6i_29ApVT1q8gISgI4J3_7A/s1600/IMG_0744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjybBsDmWAQemoudA-MYMCWK58Djqm1tnetYASqgrpkQmZu6hWA384bB4NTE5skGtKD0ahFdMW8QuKboiPPmjyLlVznYjFhYTN-g8K3ZCpTYZsCJ56UFBL6i_29ApVT1q8gISgI4J3_7A/s320/IMG_0744.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">This was to be a day of glory. We learned that on Sundays it is possible to perform street entertainment in a certain atmospheric alleyway (Garcia Moreno/ Eugenio Espejo) of the old city. Just adjacent to Plaza Grande. So we played for four hours, and we made a little money, too: $165. In Ecuador. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqjlesaT2M6os9qNAZqUOGd9kSr_MDuWVlDhyphenhyphenlluXiIuXSGYgzrJjcvLkCF2GnTSQcgMebY95i5SqFjdJ2Jytv3X3-rpjvbucRDokJnnP14TM4Agxwrn3zAE-VeR9AKKKKo-jFV89iA/s1600/IMG_0745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqjlesaT2M6os9qNAZqUOGd9kSr_MDuWVlDhyphenhyphenlluXiIuXSGYgzrJjcvLkCF2GnTSQcgMebY95i5SqFjdJ2Jytv3X3-rpjvbucRDokJnnP14TM4Agxwrn3zAE-VeR9AKKKKo-jFV89iA/s320/IMG_0745.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">We were also interviewed for Ecuadorean television while playing a song or two and describing our adventures.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8tnL5llcZxV_C3-VDVM0235Ti1NHekK1PrbkI_O5MKP0pSEartOo0lLaOcs0mD-Wj0Igj7IdRt_nHqEjTJCdLb34BPE4-TQamtQTSVzez7DIcIV7BUBH5dHlFQzJo0wLIfVKl7fSOLQ/s1600/IMG_0747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8tnL5llcZxV_C3-VDVM0235Ti1NHekK1PrbkI_O5MKP0pSEartOo0lLaOcs0mD-Wj0Igj7IdRt_nHqEjTJCdLb34BPE4-TQamtQTSVzez7DIcIV7BUBH5dHlFQzJo0wLIfVKl7fSOLQ/s320/IMG_0747.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">these girls were our biggest fans, sitting for a long time and singing along. Their favorite song was "Monkey and the Engineer".</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR9DqOuweikkfvnIwvnYs_egsOJv9Cu8GedYvsawN0ejARiShRFwJxJcJ3f8OzCE3vu5t7D2oIpthiq9IvAZwzCYDoflks3lL4bDSjXtgiZXLdp0RBqfGDoQlrxOF0KrL4AKea9rfn9A/s1600/IMG_0753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR9DqOuweikkfvnIwvnYs_egsOJv9Cu8GedYvsawN0ejARiShRFwJxJcJ3f8OzCE3vu5t7D2oIpthiq9IvAZwzCYDoflks3lL4bDSjXtgiZXLdp0RBqfGDoQlrxOF0KrL4AKea9rfn9A/s320/IMG_0753.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Having left Quito and headed to the fire station at Machachi, we ran into Alan and Erin, an American couple going south on tandem since northern Canada. This was our second run-in with them, as we had stayed in the Cali casa de ciclistas in Colombia at the same time, about 6 weeks earlier.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoejmUiMbqIUAcAa2Jb2MF393NBUvZfr8BDkve6LHij6hptlK23zuUCbtjby_DF0v1LHnBZmE0yoJr3CZo8vQOOBC4YnD2FOrVaYp8DrT3WvkRVfwPn4iGwHUQGn4ngbYS9sWbiT6vUw/s1600/IMG_0752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoejmUiMbqIUAcAa2Jb2MF393NBUvZfr8BDkve6LHij6hptlK23zuUCbtjby_DF0v1LHnBZmE0yoJr3CZo8vQOOBC4YnD2FOrVaYp8DrT3WvkRVfwPn4iGwHUQGn4ngbYS9sWbiT6vUw/s200/IMG_0752.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">at this time they were travelling with Fernando, a Colombian cyclist</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQhSbtB0KWMQzMfQLow58cJNQ2IksFtgdg-sQHlKihHhJhubrmpL80IVTarvlE5tuvLel9BXGLjLQ6MVxWciVZXr8j1RaoGi5RBRTKj-Wvyt9c__qKPznLDOw9P506xlz8GpLDjxgfvw/s1600/IMG_0751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQhSbtB0KWMQzMfQLow58cJNQ2IksFtgdg-sQHlKihHhJhubrmpL80IVTarvlE5tuvLel9BXGLjLQ6MVxWciVZXr8j1RaoGi5RBRTKj-Wvyt9c__qKPznLDOw9P506xlz8GpLDjxgfvw/s320/IMG_0751.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">At the fire station, we found a scale, and just for kicks decided to weigh our bikes, since people have been asking us since Alaska how much our bikes weigh. Jason's weighed 96 pounds, all loaded up. Jeff's: 109. Alan and Erin's: 190 (tandem). Fernando's: 122. (this is mindboggling since Fernando weighs only 138 pounds! Turns out he is carrying all kinds of crazy stuff, like snorkeling fins and mask, and a shelfload of books, among other things).</div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNjtuUsVSiuFEOwUrpsoqN_eEWABiqac01IjuzL-Vu_e-RzHmt-jV2riIKqfwpXg4leMcI2o_7t1A7nYnmK7iFCZB3DQCrBDem3dfeuU3D5H_DSQ62ffuJmM8_TMUICLmihE8SJLseMw/s1600/IMG_0755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNjtuUsVSiuFEOwUrpsoqN_eEWABiqac01IjuzL-Vu_e-RzHmt-jV2riIKqfwpXg4leMcI2o_7t1A7nYnmK7iFCZB3DQCrBDem3dfeuU3D5H_DSQ62ffuJmM8_TMUICLmihE8SJLseMw/s400/IMG_0755.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">This photo clearly shows the twin peaks of the Illinizas, 5000 meter-plus volcanoes found south of Quito. Our plan is to climb Illiniza Norte, the less-technical of the two. We also have a larger plan in mind: we are to acclimitize for a climb of Chimborazo, Ecuador's highest volcano, the following week.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;">Having left our bikes at Llovizna, a friendly hostal in El Chaupi, we started up the lower slopes of Illinizas:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRLGq2ORHpaYRO-BnJF1LaHQ_qTBZSNIhvenu9hHFVL7WgGWqRQSwra770dslkVKpGlhYNJvqUNWEEcuLA3fDCLHHhjAOTOeb01_0MWGyAIrhW_CY0tMUnQFqLzxJDwhLH24buep5zRw/s1600/IMG_0760.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRLGq2ORHpaYRO-BnJF1LaHQ_qTBZSNIhvenu9hHFVL7WgGWqRQSwra770dslkVKpGlhYNJvqUNWEEcuLA3fDCLHHhjAOTOeb01_0MWGyAIrhW_CY0tMUnQFqLzxJDwhLH24buep5zRw/s400/IMG_0760.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8D1DDcgywnEol3jOA3N7hcDWMvkA1YoNg3vs6Bicr8F9amp2gK8fmDH5G_tffH_LIjFIGsO_bWmlBO0Yicwkv4LbM4GieK1PbI_1vqlT2iGBoVhwr-4OG9Kl9DMhtsVOqhDuTYRCOg/s1600/IMG_0761.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8D1DDcgywnEol3jOA3N7hcDWMvkA1YoNg3vs6Bicr8F9amp2gK8fmDH5G_tffH_LIjFIGsO_bWmlBO0Yicwkv4LbM4GieK1PbI_1vqlT2iGBoVhwr-4OG9Kl9DMhtsVOqhDuTYRCOg/s200/IMG_0761.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8D1DDcgywnEol3jOA3N7hcDWMvkA1YoNg3vs6Bicr8F9amp2gK8fmDH5G_tffH_LIjFIGsO_bWmlBO0Yicwkv4LbM4GieK1PbI_1vqlT2iGBoVhwr-4OG9Kl9DMhtsVOqhDuTYRCOg/s1600/IMG_0761.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7LWybx_H6p9JgedLKCyqam0mttGR-WaayjkiaLAUYkVlBAu7TbYn_t1vUZlhxgvLv7UuGMaUID0FHiEXvu3vXjeGGJRHl2gqomkWUNxpv95PolJtGPz-UCawkMQ4dRPWCSmIzzo4OGw/s1600/IMG_0764.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7LWybx_H6p9JgedLKCyqam0mttGR-WaayjkiaLAUYkVlBAu7TbYn_t1vUZlhxgvLv7UuGMaUID0FHiEXvu3vXjeGGJRHl2gqomkWUNxpv95PolJtGPz-UCawkMQ4dRPWCSmIzzo4OGw/s320/IMG_0764.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">our campsite at La Virgen at 3900 m. It stormed and rained on us during the night, giving us doubts as to whether we would be able to climb, but the scene in predawn conditions was very favorable:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFmkwKMy50AdpDpQl0dZIuoo4sMiuOWJpiBNQNFVFaoCTW-YSAu7Bomd9daj7mxyEpUJTMXvk5PAXbxDfZRdJ3cgCep_YE57gOLPY6uA2Ydxgu3tZwUnwFT2qbR5-MsTxWlBLD5WjJAQ/s1600/IMG_0767.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFmkwKMy50AdpDpQl0dZIuoo4sMiuOWJpiBNQNFVFaoCTW-YSAu7Bomd9daj7mxyEpUJTMXvk5PAXbxDfZRdJ3cgCep_YE57gOLPY6uA2Ydxgu3tZwUnwFT2qbR5-MsTxWlBLD5WjJAQ/s400/IMG_0767.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">the evening's weather had left a gorgeous cap of fresh snow on the two peaks</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQOZPbMT03aYwm0DtYcZ59X16A65l8V_87Pn2pt3T9ZR991_28ujgul7fXCuGVidzzQDoCT1kmKik8WlhO4ksDy_wN6FN9HMWEBp2KHRWuIjJMMpFT5C_Cvnyio7PhR_AjjYZ6AO7SOg/s1600/IMG_0769.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQOZPbMT03aYwm0DtYcZ59X16A65l8V_87Pn2pt3T9ZR991_28ujgul7fXCuGVidzzQDoCT1kmKik8WlhO4ksDy_wN6FN9HMWEBp2KHRWuIjJMMpFT5C_Cvnyio7PhR_AjjYZ6AO7SOg/s400/IMG_0769.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">just before dawn, that is Cotopaxi in the midground, at 5897m, the second-highest volcano in Ecuador</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWFEsdIy_o2BfX-1gvqTqKSPPZxkMUXw0aHdgjnGKPv-I7s_oWav1e7f_hZMCH-mXsrv6CjFcmdFK1cDrQmOBnvKwIVf8OG1SmRMNjqZoqUS-OCD_zlL3Q69HDfgBhjSWt1wNBgU8kww/s1600/IMG_0771.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWFEsdIy_o2BfX-1gvqTqKSPPZxkMUXw0aHdgjnGKPv-I7s_oWav1e7f_hZMCH-mXsrv6CjFcmdFK1cDrQmOBnvKwIVf8OG1SmRMNjqZoqUS-OCD_zlL3Q69HDfgBhjSWt1wNBgU8kww/s320/IMG_0771.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">the refuge at 4800 m near the saddle between the two Illinizas</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicZpVt-AQGyhGcS_vF-JLXHWN5cSUbuZ0YGzg6VB8sFZhKLXdJchwTEdNG7OoluuH72lt94VDzQHAgG54H7qKszBltHzBJazSI1y6LqLvGLGaz-Jwpi8E17sLpJ432_HyXJlBfqRbGgw/s1600/IMG_0773.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicZpVt-AQGyhGcS_vF-JLXHWN5cSUbuZ0YGzg6VB8sFZhKLXdJchwTEdNG7OoluuH72lt94VDzQHAgG54H7qKszBltHzBJazSI1y6LqLvGLGaz-Jwpi8E17sLpJ432_HyXJlBfqRbGgw/s400/IMG_0773.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">another glimpse of Cotopaxi, with 5758m Antisana (Ecuador's 4th-highest) in the back left</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiZdDneA2BhlLl-kjtylzwIrfr-u3v4cXON_L27428jnzf9mvEjvqUd7bTTc2tXSJZfaydzqizQefNlQ4fBfzcfJDyABh_UXpldgIA87-MqVQ1PDwkvjBFsxrmTMlQbPIz89CwsFGTDQ/s1600/IMG_0774.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiZdDneA2BhlLl-kjtylzwIrfr-u3v4cXON_L27428jnzf9mvEjvqUd7bTTc2tXSJZfaydzqizQefNlQ4fBfzcfJDyABh_UXpldgIA87-MqVQ1PDwkvjBFsxrmTMlQbPIz89CwsFGTDQ/s320/IMG_0774.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">about to start up towards the peak of Illiniza Norte, sporting our new construction-worker rock-protection helmets</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyW-a5HArUJkcbddiylwEfSA1zFqiS-obtY1YvC4ZWDmLOWWUPkYU_5yHSgaiBJfPjYJycaoL3KOxW6J1_qD6X71MlDVwL85o-i3jEP0AvMcDjcu2jttm27ldBm24TKMqmfniou3Mh1Q/s1600/IMG_0779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyW-a5HArUJkcbddiylwEfSA1zFqiS-obtY1YvC4ZWDmLOWWUPkYU_5yHSgaiBJfPjYJycaoL3KOxW6J1_qD6X71MlDVwL85o-i3jEP0AvMcDjcu2jttm27ldBm24TKMqmfniou3Mh1Q/s400/IMG_0779.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">this is Jason coming slowly up steep slopes, with gleaming Illiniza Sur (5248m) as the backdrop</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjpAvHsfjppJtleRds0eWhiFIBT9NqUiwutfP4HYggb6fNqnQn4q0RpIJNjzhwVacvrpOGYVJr7HIv676v-4B4RYEQyeMmvrTbP2SMkIzsDH82NQJa7saboOg50g5RlvOIHmYtycoMA/s1600/IMG_0781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjpAvHsfjppJtleRds0eWhiFIBT9NqUiwutfP4HYggb6fNqnQn4q0RpIJNjzhwVacvrpOGYVJr7HIv676v-4B4RYEQyeMmvrTbP2SMkIzsDH82NQJa7saboOg50g5RlvOIHmYtycoMA/s320/IMG_0781.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">this was a really fun climb, and we were the only people on the mountain</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEianiEUorEvBFrcKuYunkCHNvg9BRNUOoczvsMt-1msgAuZi_ClRmdUXKB04WfqAut1NHnGlncj8w731S7xzXLRiI0or814UMCNJiFsekqvBtfmiPia328jxKdC4VRp0ZIH22-Okf-G-g/s1600/IMG_0780.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEianiEUorEvBFrcKuYunkCHNvg9BRNUOoczvsMt-1msgAuZi_ClRmdUXKB04WfqAut1NHnGlncj8w731S7xzXLRiI0or814UMCNJiFsekqvBtfmiPia328jxKdC4VRp0ZIH22-Okf-G-g/s320/IMG_0780.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">ice crystals near the summit of Illiniza Norte</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh6j856V2oj4anXdgXpMLg2vEB66z8AiC6T6dRn9DFOZaBmEzQbbPYLBXBpwtJHpmNhGK-nKiDJvkVwztTaxh1rQlFEEKgkXWRD9WeN1pSA_rjINMUus3GCQtyjqp0XSGP3eA6qmSejA/s1600/IMG_0785.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh6j856V2oj4anXdgXpMLg2vEB66z8AiC6T6dRn9DFOZaBmEzQbbPYLBXBpwtJHpmNhGK-nKiDJvkVwztTaxh1rQlFEEKgkXWRD9WeN1pSA_rjINMUus3GCQtyjqp0XSGP3eA6qmSejA/s320/IMG_0785.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">if you look closely you will see Jason working his way along a ledge, center-right of photo; this area is called El Paso de la Muerte (the pass of death), which sounds worse than it is.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV-sCuIP_sigPR_CS4j3Fsy3vUe4gj46ZQmJLgwRK72fga0VL13kYhXETKwbI9-LB9XRPX8aP-ItIdpXRUNQ4NkZP2PdLUdea4wWcl7Fn4P3xUNsJSWZVJ5HKk_lxUxb7cvDui7A69eg/s1600/IMG_0784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV-sCuIP_sigPR_CS4j3Fsy3vUe4gj46ZQmJLgwRK72fga0VL13kYhXETKwbI9-LB9XRPX8aP-ItIdpXRUNQ4NkZP2PdLUdea4wWcl7Fn4P3xUNsJSWZVJ5HKk_lxUxb7cvDui7A69eg/s400/IMG_0784.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Popping up above the clouds is none other than Chimborazo, at 6310m, seen to the south.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrry-9pGf5QpoK9tEITD40QXPNMaAb76-Xx9UjzL0q101jfefX2rtqe9QUV85YHWjAB5BhVOo6RYXkI_A8YnONZzGllbiV32zVYGYQtHCZ4VAVQbx-7Gvw6huFcMph4NaCd2vRReQxxQ/s1600/IMG_0788.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrry-9pGf5QpoK9tEITD40QXPNMaAb76-Xx9UjzL0q101jfefX2rtqe9QUV85YHWjAB5BhVOo6RYXkI_A8YnONZzGllbiV32zVYGYQtHCZ4VAVQbx-7Gvw6huFcMph4NaCd2vRReQxxQ/s320/IMG_0788.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">on the summit of Illiniza Norte: 5,126 m (16,818 ft)</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIVP84Gbi58BXOn4dfGPYs5p-Cz1un1lCWb7Bd8Agp1YwOR7qmMTIRUOFnGJOT73_EAIT5udNu9ZzuOl71WYjBw6FkyYRgjDR3NpYXctGU10Dpr7naYs9gh1GkHfI-soLfLbsZn-Lrw/s1600/IMG_0789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIVP84Gbi58BXOn4dfGPYs5p-Cz1un1lCWb7Bd8Agp1YwOR7qmMTIRUOFnGJOT73_EAIT5udNu9ZzuOl71WYjBw6FkyYRgjDR3NpYXctGU10Dpr7naYs9gh1GkHfI-soLfLbsZn-Lrw/s400/IMG_0789.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Jeff takes in the scene among the cliffs that form the summit of Illiniza Norte</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;">Jason says he wants to be the first person to climb all the world's 5000m peaks in Crocs:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYj-zc64Za7neGYXzgBiKjRSwlvE3uxn7d0zuz6hkh6sF4J82zrvicTX9bOd26FUni_jSrH8nZRMLrPbmD5EEFiCBSIy6U5jLOoqHiIpAlvcmC7X8l5dk8ITFI1nrFEKByK7bHaW2Siw/s1600/IMG_0791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYj-zc64Za7neGYXzgBiKjRSwlvE3uxn7d0zuz6hkh6sF4J82zrvicTX9bOd26FUni_jSrH8nZRMLrPbmD5EEFiCBSIy6U5jLOoqHiIpAlvcmC7X8l5dk8ITFI1nrFEKByK7bHaW2Siw/s200/IMG_0791.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrry-9pGf5QpoK9tEITD40QXPNMaAb76-Xx9UjzL0q101jfefX2rtqe9QUV85YHWjAB5BhVOo6RYXkI_A8YnONZzGllbiV32zVYGYQtHCZ4VAVQbx-7Gvw6huFcMph4NaCd2vRReQxxQ/s1600/IMG_0788.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5GJm2p0NQNI-2_vaTj3vB_l68cSgrPSg9aIMxpTclMHEQFjbaE8k0-betuK2ZDWi_tNtX62M914EjfVMCpx6OQSeytbdrcNyVrTHtmUNBt36tbxv1yzy80ilDpoPDWsyMfqe5_lUQrw/s1600/IMG_0792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5GJm2p0NQNI-2_vaTj3vB_l68cSgrPSg9aIMxpTclMHEQFjbaE8k0-betuK2ZDWi_tNtX62M914EjfVMCpx6OQSeytbdrcNyVrTHtmUNBt36tbxv1yzy80ilDpoPDWsyMfqe5_lUQrw/s320/IMG_0792.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">fog rolled in as we started down</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0YDRHqY2wuhSYkKCgSNpXYfda-vnytjI02YkMY-CPkDylcVNYmxLF0ZWbRSyqBf3-1WrkHwOUZ_oBsM-OdAqji9h-Mi-wBJpzQXjgUAJ4GVcrncmpwwWzm36oPq4gNV1V3rj9Scjrg/s1600/IMG_0794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0YDRHqY2wuhSYkKCgSNpXYfda-vnytjI02YkMY-CPkDylcVNYmxLF0ZWbRSyqBf3-1WrkHwOUZ_oBsM-OdAqji9h-Mi-wBJpzQXjgUAJ4GVcrncmpwwWzm36oPq4gNV1V3rj9Scjrg/s400/IMG_0794.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">this was a nice descent, with broad views and great vegetation in the high páramo:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6Wpk5zuDswMc-epardNmZ5iE1dNnxi4BVGd3ZW1gMfIIzIVlLi0W_K8nvKg_6oN7jAIzL5WUFleBoJ_ziOLymFTI9jVGxGRJP80EyNz0mo-ySqtf9cGVW0blUkY-O9s1DK-fmTtbbg/s1600/IMG_0797.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6Wpk5zuDswMc-epardNmZ5iE1dNnxi4BVGd3ZW1gMfIIzIVlLi0W_K8nvKg_6oN7jAIzL5WUFleBoJ_ziOLymFTI9jVGxGRJP80EyNz0mo-ySqtf9cGVW0blUkY-O9s1DK-fmTtbbg/s320/IMG_0797.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6nAeY0ln9JYg-_2sQbBl-VZ0J_w1rDQvsqtt9aiKW_bTeOEG27q5UZlCZsVD_l6Ro7OC86ug8MHKYe3f_jiCWI1nkK7_2folhi4jRqZkP8w9OxnLQcIPEHcUxiJdQRk3NfMqiBZ3UjQ/s1600/IMG_0798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6nAeY0ln9JYg-_2sQbBl-VZ0J_w1rDQvsqtt9aiKW_bTeOEG27q5UZlCZsVD_l6Ro7OC86ug8MHKYe3f_jiCWI1nkK7_2folhi4jRqZkP8w9OxnLQcIPEHcUxiJdQRk3NfMqiBZ3UjQ/s200/IMG_0798.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilaybCGqSs2zXkpsohYFHyy4qWfc7mYHRaclGBBr0UXjc6u72YIcNvAGj3SzsQ2qakAmWGk77CLQvLNzCOvtJ5-AHwXq0y2XMZBSA4CGZqkq65kDeO1HdBHxFFGa_zVPlMEhuto206Tg/s1600/IMG_0799.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilaybCGqSs2zXkpsohYFHyy4qWfc7mYHRaclGBBr0UXjc6u72YIcNvAGj3SzsQ2qakAmWGk77CLQvLNzCOvtJ5-AHwXq0y2XMZBSA4CGZqkq65kDeO1HdBHxFFGa_zVPlMEhuto206Tg/s200/IMG_0799.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">these amazing plants all seen around 4500m elevation on the slopes of Illiniza</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFWMYkiWTF_sQLseN6-SzO8LHWAukKDteBvEfjZQCBgeaqWth4SOqcuH-KMHoM908duDtkshtkpvnkIcf2HgdsEO88Tm4uy3kQ8KXQclZvZ4iFeYparOQVrqHxyq8LyQqhVbRh0_kGw/s1600/IMG_0800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFWMYkiWTF_sQLseN6-SzO8LHWAukKDteBvEfjZQCBgeaqWth4SOqcuH-KMHoM908duDtkshtkpvnkIcf2HgdsEO88Tm4uy3kQ8KXQclZvZ4iFeYparOQVrqHxyq8LyQqhVbRh0_kGw/s200/IMG_0800.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><br />
Back down from Illiniza, we headed out of El Chaupi on a series of high lonesome dirt roads passing along the skirt of the twin volcanoes:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEippnosK4Q8lKRbMdeiEAg3XzJOa_03VHZD4oHpy5b1ToY7sedknyAfNlFpBJF_pcXa9aI39nJah1jg6NhI5jXWyP5yRNmlLKHuJifq547oziNzQdeLItqus20Tb_yVymLSNCCOhhKrKQ/s1600/IMG_0802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEippnosK4Q8lKRbMdeiEAg3XzJOa_03VHZD4oHpy5b1ToY7sedknyAfNlFpBJF_pcXa9aI39nJah1jg6NhI5jXWyP5yRNmlLKHuJifq547oziNzQdeLItqus20Tb_yVymLSNCCOhhKrKQ/s320/IMG_0802.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qlfC2K2yMqnl3afXSG-2AqXCkvqqsBqbE93qYF7XbkIzWW9rhFDGfZvTkHRiAi4r0hH1AoAKdrxcq9CwVzgszlbM5JYOYCCU0MPtT9DHZYjEY1_72aZ-rdT-lwm3ehVsE5jd76doNw/s1600/IMG_0804.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7qlfC2K2yMqnl3afXSG-2AqXCkvqqsBqbE93qYF7XbkIzWW9rhFDGfZvTkHRiAi4r0hH1AoAKdrxcq9CwVzgszlbM5JYOYCCU0MPtT9DHZYjEY1_72aZ-rdT-lwm3ehVsE5jd76doNw/s400/IMG_0804.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">this kind of ride doesn't happen everyday, following jeep trails through high páramo and flanked by 16,000-foot-plus volcanoes</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTrhxBEx3kf4nBD_4ep9QBaMXitzMTCgFADyiqAuEfpxWiWReQ0e5pF4jFUPZYziGck93tX4UqkB0i2KUaB0JODp20jpH7wq2cRNbCIylkIiHdFc07LJowBTyJMLidcjFp8AjmtFwVKQ/s1600/IMG_0807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTrhxBEx3kf4nBD_4ep9QBaMXitzMTCgFADyiqAuEfpxWiWReQ0e5pF4jFUPZYziGck93tX4UqkB0i2KUaB0JODp20jpH7wq2cRNbCIylkIiHdFc07LJowBTyJMLidcjFp8AjmtFwVKQ/s320/IMG_0807.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Ecuadorean traffic jam</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxcTMmidRVhwCZ7Wo-nYYdXFx6wfyZWjUBQNRa1I7mCg2WhSnI2p3G3kVNaVSIhJfo5r9n6g6zNlvEOSLVOc6zRDqc4_b9zMO994ifEqLjPu1rnuxHs3b-bSv3SDJqeUb68-KxA2Qbw/s1600/IMG_0808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxcTMmidRVhwCZ7Wo-nYYdXFx6wfyZWjUBQNRa1I7mCg2WhSnI2p3G3kVNaVSIhJfo5r9n6g6zNlvEOSLVOc6zRDqc4_b9zMO994ifEqLjPu1rnuxHs3b-bSv3SDJqeUb68-KxA2Qbw/s320/IMG_0808.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">there was a single pig following this circus as well</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYBAGhtr92TtTUcN1DJiGb8BGoHjrnyf5iAq6ZwL_2YgEHkTez_o2NDblw69x3GfxndfysfC9BK2SfUb4e1cMyIGCgqSAJo_oeRVDFc2JLKAMzXg7SbCPj6YzWZqQqHL3iV5LQCV_vg/s1600/IMG_0810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYBAGhtr92TtTUcN1DJiGb8BGoHjrnyf5iAq6ZwL_2YgEHkTez_o2NDblw69x3GfxndfysfC9BK2SfUb4e1cMyIGCgqSAJo_oeRVDFc2JLKAMzXg7SbCPj6YzWZqQqHL3iV5LQCV_vg/s400/IMG_0810.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">our first good view of Tungurahua (5016m, 16,456ft), our next acclimitization peak for Chimborazo. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtfChrJHlu8YOH5D_xJ7I6763ycMNS7M_0SCF4Vh8HxEdWbWL_sEzmaNH44rxN-5ikQXNxBjw9V_occhjpQR9ealCnTu_kihsuFuF3Sks_o3sf6pN19g74yw_ClFBJ4mVTQpq8pOPYXQ/s1600/IMG_0817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtfChrJHlu8YOH5D_xJ7I6763ycMNS7M_0SCF4Vh8HxEdWbWL_sEzmaNH44rxN-5ikQXNxBjw9V_occhjpQR9ealCnTu_kihsuFuF3Sks_o3sf6pN19g74yw_ClFBJ4mVTQpq8pOPYXQ/s320/IMG_0817.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">we stopped first in Ambato, at a casa de ciclistas whose protagonist has been a national MTB champion (cross-country) in Ecuador in past years. These are just a few of the countless trophies displayed in the house:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_aeVvqxmZ_Izy3IavcH7YxkYRi5a30hYXsF6O0-HLXNomiu5jiQr8MKHxHMtYSmZfWp_WdF3IAYujMPdtRIR_GQHUSUdmSVmu5nRnGdWs6JprpsZGSZ8qwU1ezvLFeTVyVgCvTTDX5w/s1600/IMG_0816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_aeVvqxmZ_Izy3IavcH7YxkYRi5a30hYXsF6O0-HLXNomiu5jiQr8MKHxHMtYSmZfWp_WdF3IAYujMPdtRIR_GQHUSUdmSVmu5nRnGdWs6JprpsZGSZ8qwU1ezvLFeTVyVgCvTTDX5w/s200/IMG_0816.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghI-bFiUBFFSb0OWdRtYhdBF3NPTBFmsAthjhKqV33oaRIn0SFR-3Jrw6R9NAs1Uk1MSbaPhchkjGaXCCrVYD6fKYPlfe4iyyxbSGULvjd7ens4MoWn3FWPfKvznAvGRiNUGTdZhEfuA/s1600/IMG_0865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNCfVa0G7BKCxFWKllYPyO2KuaocBu_QtjnARsklX8ZSQygc1IxbMxSwbP3Nf4cxR46Wwuu-uQPoJbZTDNOfVrBTxdHrzyT_m7TDtvC28fcqF7szynt5PAcToWVFDS1F50K1IoPh5PQ/s1600/IMG_0864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZNCfVa0G7BKCxFWKllYPyO2KuaocBu_QtjnARsklX8ZSQygc1IxbMxSwbP3Nf4cxR46Wwuu-uQPoJbZTDNOfVrBTxdHrzyT_m7TDtvC28fcqF7szynt5PAcToWVFDS1F50K1IoPh5PQ/s320/IMG_0864.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">This is Leo Marujón at the Ambato casa de ciclistas (BikeHouse). Campeón!</div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghI-bFiUBFFSb0OWdRtYhdBF3NPTBFmsAthjhKqV33oaRIn0SFR-3Jrw6R9NAs1Uk1MSbaPhchkjGaXCCrVYD6fKYPlfe4iyyxbSGULvjd7ens4MoWn3FWPfKvznAvGRiNUGTdZhEfuA/s1600/IMG_0865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghI-bFiUBFFSb0OWdRtYhdBF3NPTBFmsAthjhKqV33oaRIn0SFR-3Jrw6R9NAs1Uk1MSbaPhchkjGaXCCrVYD6fKYPlfe4iyyxbSGULvjd7ens4MoWn3FWPfKvznAvGRiNUGTdZhEfuA/s200/IMG_0865.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">his young daughter (after playing with Mom's makeup kit)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc19GKLNDrCkihHQYZeOHYuUFUsn7HJJAHwN7AIpRtiFzbdSoHIzHj6NT8D6uWvS3B6GrDmyg44OKoKrsXQP9nEo3Ke7KpJV0c2PeT-JeIXB5irll2-JTVD977B2UyJ1Q8oWD4-CK9xw/s1600/IMG_0819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc19GKLNDrCkihHQYZeOHYuUFUsn7HJJAHwN7AIpRtiFzbdSoHIzHj6NT8D6uWvS3B6GrDmyg44OKoKrsXQP9nEo3Ke7KpJV0c2PeT-JeIXB5irll2-JTVD977B2UyJ1Q8oWD4-CK9xw/s320/IMG_0819.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">working it, barefoot</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIssZ0j61pAxPvRzZkd_lUXQYfJ0_fv-Fa2VnD6O3aMOFjfroFj3rnKDHw73eK-7CLiu_113X0Z7VdNml1Hh8dOAG9WMsMkLVbq5BeFR1th4UWa3mG3Px_IG64hQWsoPKHpRCne1qX_A/s1600/IMG_0821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIssZ0j61pAxPvRzZkd_lUXQYfJ0_fv-Fa2VnD6O3aMOFjfroFj3rnKDHw73eK-7CLiu_113X0Z7VdNml1Hh8dOAG9WMsMkLVbq5BeFR1th4UWa3mG3Px_IG64hQWsoPKHpRCne1qX_A/s320/IMG_0821.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">we celebrated two years of life on the road in Baños with a couple of Pilseners</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-cn9ohWjbtIkc0vDml_cUqf5dYt2-T1by34C1yALNRvcB9THCiyM_bQhmQEsbTdmKlWovTc5GqmpK6W6tHLxcPlvE3_rt2ew1cTzqb8SiEe17N4gCUhXh5pmsmjs2Tv2VQTj5697UIw/s1600/IMG_0824.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-cn9ohWjbtIkc0vDml_cUqf5dYt2-T1by34C1yALNRvcB9THCiyM_bQhmQEsbTdmKlWovTc5GqmpK6W6tHLxcPlvE3_rt2ew1cTzqb8SiEe17N4gCUhXh5pmsmjs2Tv2VQTj5697UIw/s320/IMG_0824.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">we weren't gonna let this little sign stop our forward momentum. Technically, Tungurahua is a very active volcano which has been in nearly-constant eruption for 12 years, so much so that there are local nightly tours from Baños to see the lava explosions. However, we did a little research, and found that daily seismic events had reduced to less than 10, whereas they were once more than 50 per day. So we decided to go for it.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xWE7r-6WWhpvUfNwQvGs_n8YFN6w6afZZHHo2eROBLuFIxf3jJb_2mbq5rWt3tOKE12Dua7o21YieyDSvo57C9_1GRTcetq3uQ_rFcK6hXKeXzRXQ3s4K-kxbv4_dSBTx6LPIcTbEQ/s1600/IMG_0826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xWE7r-6WWhpvUfNwQvGs_n8YFN6w6afZZHHo2eROBLuFIxf3jJb_2mbq5rWt3tOKE12Dua7o21YieyDSvo57C9_1GRTcetq3uQ_rFcK6hXKeXzRXQ3s4K-kxbv4_dSBTx6LPIcTbEQ/s200/IMG_0826.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Tree tomato (tomate de árbol) seen on the lower slopes of Tungurahua</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVYvyFoYzYmcV6PynZbCufk7zf4uIbHVYghGaYhQebBm8WawaeiFMQnnosBN2C7oYXQqo5BBqn5W0moKmGXY0_5-2mi8SIwfyD4H-HTfgb5D6Va0_ubWtp4l_N8xvSGwu6Azk4O8B6sQ/s1600/IMG_0854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVYvyFoYzYmcV6PynZbCufk7zf4uIbHVYghGaYhQebBm8WawaeiFMQnnosBN2C7oYXQqo5BBqn5W0moKmGXY0_5-2mi8SIwfyD4H-HTfgb5D6Va0_ubWtp4l_N8xvSGwu6Azk4O8B6sQ/s320/IMG_0854.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiidWRXfgnLBrgC8EwIcjzurO3mV4QeQmygvchkh-P4F3bkkIoQZGLMgPKphS1dqaJtRZkxyReoWKMu_2-i0_qGgsOsM83eZ6Ev6iazNCH6h7bE0V-ZTVRHEihnOM0fIOHSGqQvZZpkPQ/s1600/IMG_0853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiidWRXfgnLBrgC8EwIcjzurO3mV4QeQmygvchkh-P4F3bkkIoQZGLMgPKphS1dqaJtRZkxyReoWKMu_2-i0_qGgsOsM83eZ6Ev6iazNCH6h7bE0V-ZTVRHEihnOM0fIOHSGqQvZZpkPQ/s400/IMG_0853.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">fertile volcanic lands</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xYvcOEGIs7WjOVgdHC2YXTJ5bSzsn8WMOHXUaGRu8nNj5Wz8JRunmTPAy9h45CGTp5Bb78SzUcpFMlU4ybRmjifDCMDtLfYU79PsX-p3WDZmB4T9y56tGEuPw_w5RaNafx2gdzVnVg/s1600/IMG_0828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xYvcOEGIs7WjOVgdHC2YXTJ5bSzsn8WMOHXUaGRu8nNj5Wz8JRunmTPAy9h45CGTp5Bb78SzUcpFMlU4ybRmjifDCMDtLfYU79PsX-p3WDZmB4T9y56tGEuPw_w5RaNafx2gdzVnVg/s320/IMG_0828.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">a common scene in the Andes: fog slowly eating away your gorgeous views</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizMYcTcXGCdN9siRF39hK2QDy1qGkrZSPRJ2e-d3m2NEJXxrd5kY_HRUGJu3KwPm22omDmoeD-jd5Q3s5EF7RnqOM8odPC-Uzd10Nb-0QtdKry_Enbab0Xp-UKsZwELn6g6rZHjkSwbw/s1600/IMG_0830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizMYcTcXGCdN9siRF39hK2QDy1qGkrZSPRJ2e-d3m2NEJXxrd5kY_HRUGJu3KwPm22omDmoeD-jd5Q3s5EF7RnqOM8odPC-Uzd10Nb-0QtdKry_Enbab0Xp-UKsZwELn6g6rZHjkSwbw/s320/IMG_0830.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">here we are near the refuge at 3800m, this is a view towards the summit of Tungurahua. Tungurahua may not be technical, may not even have ice, but it is one of the most physically-intense climbs in Ecuador. Starting at 1800m elevation in Baños, you climb 3200m to the summit! which is around 10,500 feet vertical gain. All of which is great training for Chimborazo, anyway. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWY87-d5HGEU9NLC8H9XVoWuvQscK7cSU9k5YwlaGrnqZIZO1QAQCgRmKd-5LcjZavofMrVr06A58v9cmNeWwP8PlcWfDgTW4AK5JNSBGJsOG-rA4MSa6MzY0SShV4tULXlUGAjVAqgw/s1600/IMG_0841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWY87-d5HGEU9NLC8H9XVoWuvQscK7cSU9k5YwlaGrnqZIZO1QAQCgRmKd-5LcjZavofMrVr06A58v9cmNeWwP8PlcWfDgTW4AK5JNSBGJsOG-rA4MSa6MzY0SShV4tULXlUGAjVAqgw/s320/IMG_0841.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">we camped next to this ruined refuge, into which burning bombs of volcanic rock had fallen countless times over the past 12 years</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2zg_jRTZF65f__0MB15mcLq5OBrbnnLVkRvd6ofOnCMSqEuhQuVTi_7Q1THZl4i39KnE_3YJMJUBw2lAbQoElHCuqzxxYIUKRAlfwWdtW8Z4K6S3brhp0AFxIAWJtjJF3UwR12i_Ztw/s1600/IMG_0831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2zg_jRTZF65f__0MB15mcLq5OBrbnnLVkRvd6ofOnCMSqEuhQuVTi_7Q1THZl4i39KnE_3YJMJUBw2lAbQoElHCuqzxxYIUKRAlfwWdtW8Z4K6S3brhp0AFxIAWJtjJF3UwR12i_Ztw/s400/IMG_0831.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">heading up towards the summit in dubious weather, this was to be the best view of the day. High winds turned Jason around, Jeff pushed on...</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMV1-g1MwIBEPscBYzReFdNKv02wOYOjsCm0Y19lNo_CFk9snB1mLmcFQRggN1ZUzTA3fQEG0XYrY1gpOPvfqzSNuKIg7kUhT6lDq2_b5_4I6HUyz9X4WHBD-nUnq_m2wPaVHsUvefyQ/s1600/IMG_0834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMV1-g1MwIBEPscBYzReFdNKv02wOYOjsCm0Y19lNo_CFk9snB1mLmcFQRggN1ZUzTA3fQEG0XYrY1gpOPvfqzSNuKIg7kUhT6lDq2_b5_4I6HUyz9X4WHBD-nUnq_m2wPaVHsUvefyQ/s320/IMG_0834.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">trudging up very steep volcanic sand slopes in the mist</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUDGN36KNAc8cAA66pbhu003e_08IZiwswISOFL8lGc1B5B3iW9LU4sHHDmGWSWXBPoA245idWfAtSRzndkLP8nvqxC6BU8elqR9OmANzoncyzjnX7RgUznyzStPbEhDanAIpsJC91SQ/s1600/IMG_0835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUDGN36KNAc8cAA66pbhu003e_08IZiwswISOFL8lGc1B5B3iW9LU4sHHDmGWSWXBPoA245idWfAtSRzndkLP8nvqxC6BU8elqR9OmANzoncyzjnX7RgUznyzStPbEhDanAIpsJC91SQ/s320/IMG_0835.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Jeff made it up to the snowline around 5000m, but turned around just short of the summit due to dangerous crosswinds blowing over 60mph, amidst whiteout conditions. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPcmtFbbmVM_iLdBLj_x4yDR_YbsORLjiv1caWbMEUUDg2Aa3RAoXCIq9oM_WUX_6NPnKVKUc79ptEWvJPciBAD7Q-kNFNjRZzvyI4QDQmvU1-4eMn5UMlFs_PDu6S6q7SM4_syGytFA/s1600/IMG_0840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPcmtFbbmVM_iLdBLj_x4yDR_YbsORLjiv1caWbMEUUDg2Aa3RAoXCIq9oM_WUX_6NPnKVKUc79ptEWvJPciBAD7Q-kNFNjRZzvyI4QDQmvU1-4eMn5UMlFs_PDu6S6q7SM4_syGytFA/s320/IMG_0840.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">cool vegetation in the high páramo</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgL_fFVBVmpJH62ZZdFRQWovcrr0KmKbr0zQYAFy9oRrY7Ecm7A2w-ZaFfeA5j0ESGNPE1etUMDOpePXBBYq-UdkdsAL8Be3VHFNNSf6kaAIbrs_IQS0eN2uZFtbKDMqXwyvm1cVmG9Q/s1600/IMG_0844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgL_fFVBVmpJH62ZZdFRQWovcrr0KmKbr0zQYAFy9oRrY7Ecm7A2w-ZaFfeA5j0ESGNPE1etUMDOpePXBBYq-UdkdsAL8Be3VHFNNSf6kaAIbrs_IQS0eN2uZFtbKDMqXwyvm1cVmG9Q/s320/IMG_0844.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">...cloud forest on the upper slopes of Tungurahua...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW9JQgaIw3-8Y8Vk2MJHeQg2ZjN4bFBPok5xKF2vNGuy5bJSFSQMxydGtM5tVNcOfMiEmXDtzjefqtHya98A85ONBdvY46nCUuxSxxvSNTVzfrXgQVj6B0CEwU1YjIOiKv3drUg_YNgQ/s1600/IMG_0843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW9JQgaIw3-8Y8Vk2MJHeQg2ZjN4bFBPok5xKF2vNGuy5bJSFSQMxydGtM5tVNcOfMiEmXDtzjefqtHya98A85ONBdvY46nCUuxSxxvSNTVzfrXgQVj6B0CEwU1YjIOiKv3drUg_YNgQ/s400/IMG_0843.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9NA_Zi3HdD8Gr7RLC0JyBOYEBDSh_bNvMvnu31mC_Jg0Re5q33F8RQJhksDB9V3x9PVCtz918Cn_QB2w99hceNLMRr8dAIX0wSqZzBGVf7uYr-YxPJZoRb5L674AV4g1-AsAHxoBGgw/s1600/IMG_0847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9NA_Zi3HdD8Gr7RLC0JyBOYEBDSh_bNvMvnu31mC_Jg0Re5q33F8RQJhksDB9V3x9PVCtz918Cn_QB2w99hceNLMRr8dAIX0wSqZzBGVf7uYr-YxPJZoRb5L674AV4g1-AsAHxoBGgw/s320/IMG_0847.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">heading back down the mountain, the trail started in cool cloud forest, but soon devolved into a bed of thick mud:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMdLL_MwcGf4DZr1GiaCx8BtITBCrxhUrxrBFRmALeYElMyokauhvBBatGPqMpySbOh6QbJes0vEykCaf4qKc4Ls_ZoM16mlZSBW6-cG8Tp4Z5IAQLjUkIhuBvsvT9MsuyHLNgaKIMZA/s1600/IMG_0848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMdLL_MwcGf4DZr1GiaCx8BtITBCrxhUrxrBFRmALeYElMyokauhvBBatGPqMpySbOh6QbJes0vEykCaf4qKc4Ls_ZoM16mlZSBW6-cG8Tp4Z5IAQLjUkIhuBvsvT9MsuyHLNgaKIMZA/s320/IMG_0848.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjxVINoFsCtV6BcclBfimEdZoT6h_Rl7wI3FXEjN_4IhX6zEAzhSWuFDVU-QBNIr7ZKA-nly54zcd-SeueWevMeqwqOh3UpzO8IN6O8EmocDQV_HfWo_GRp2VWCKZcccPoOAKWoZywvw/s1600/IMG_0855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjxVINoFsCtV6BcclBfimEdZoT6h_Rl7wI3FXEjN_4IhX6zEAzhSWuFDVU-QBNIr7ZKA-nly54zcd-SeueWevMeqwqOh3UpzO8IN6O8EmocDQV_HfWo_GRp2VWCKZcccPoOAKWoZywvw/s400/IMG_0855.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Baños seen from the lower slopes of Tungurahua. That evening we had a nice long soak in the hot springs near the waterfall in town. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPULpl8XdGpobsSwEcJlqK-IADGUuyAkPjN7eHdfsW3MjvGK6qMfwgzgKkRwmTJdThXAv5iTpRvXzGlI1r9fWN_IlodkEfEAUZEvTK8xxGqVOk7OoLavI-JCbEat54TMisK4RIIKrhqA/s1600/IMG_0858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPULpl8XdGpobsSwEcJlqK-IADGUuyAkPjN7eHdfsW3MjvGK6qMfwgzgKkRwmTJdThXAv5iTpRvXzGlI1r9fWN_IlodkEfEAUZEvTK8xxGqVOk7OoLavI-JCbEat54TMisK4RIIKrhqA/s320/IMG_0858.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">what would a bus ride be in Ecuador without the Baby Jesus?</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit_Ilk86r9A4yfmmSFtXGpdP9Iyeq8RKINyL4BDVJWnLY1Xl3Q3mKrJ-FnEQZ6BbokyBY-Q5i2Raa7rgioDOWDEM212HKGbheWM7cpr2fCSYN9SyI8uBaWU9SGPYejW-o-78R12_hBqQ/s1600/IMG_0859.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit_Ilk86r9A4yfmmSFtXGpdP9Iyeq8RKINyL4BDVJWnLY1Xl3Q3mKrJ-FnEQZ6BbokyBY-Q5i2Raa7rgioDOWDEM212HKGbheWM7cpr2fCSYN9SyI8uBaWU9SGPYejW-o-78R12_hBqQ/s320/IMG_0859.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">back in Ambato, Leo cleaned and maintenanced Jeff's suspension fork, which had gone 27,000km without any attention</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPi5IyrbcvrgKq9oBU0gBaeXFIs6PLrxt1lipOB9brnlZ7Ltc-DGOOmiyNxw3LWpThx9mUHLxRLQ1i4AkCLI4YutReeg11X2aW0fnr3SL01-JvcQ6cFZELr70i4OxqJqIdSDiB8IJ0WA/s1600/IMG_0866.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPi5IyrbcvrgKq9oBU0gBaeXFIs6PLrxt1lipOB9brnlZ7Ltc-DGOOmiyNxw3LWpThx9mUHLxRLQ1i4AkCLI4YutReeg11X2aW0fnr3SL01-JvcQ6cFZELr70i4OxqJqIdSDiB8IJ0WA/s320/IMG_0866.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">getting ready to leave BikeHouse, we took this banner with us to shoot a photo on top of Chimborazo.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxjXaC4XdA27ZBU9pIa9zSjRJVt9C0GQZo95XLH8avG6l5mMbDzpXsCaJEchAi6RyB_c0-G2tdyXpxKA_Jx5ZVck-pAHK5b3cLZFbWSRox4nmfZ12z3d7tyaQpvDx0I61NpEFq_WTnsA/s1600/IMG_0868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxjXaC4XdA27ZBU9pIa9zSjRJVt9C0GQZo95XLH8avG6l5mMbDzpXsCaJEchAi6RyB_c0-G2tdyXpxKA_Jx5ZVck-pAHK5b3cLZFbWSRox4nmfZ12z3d7tyaQpvDx0I61NpEFq_WTnsA/s200/IMG_0868.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">more evidence of CHANGE in Ecuador. The national road-building program is on speed, building new highways all the time and widening and refurbishing old ones. Some of this borders on the absurd, such as the 8-lane monster between the metropolises of Ibarra and Otavalo. Here they are planning a widening to 4 lanes between Ambato and Riobamba for 2012-13. The propaganda for these projects is ubiquitous in Ecuador.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYv58QAOz_t0tNlPzjoxpvSf7hI_WPqZoLh02c7IEGh_mjfe_JH0OV7DOjspziqLwN-507eD7DWD_kg8G0oUnIySysF-uDXqVDv4F69DAmkRFxH35UANxoy9u7A12_HgNn2w7VIKrRg/s1600/IMG_0758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYv58QAOz_t0tNlPzjoxpvSf7hI_WPqZoLh02c7IEGh_mjfe_JH0OV7DOjspziqLwN-507eD7DWD_kg8G0oUnIySysF-uDXqVDv4F69DAmkRFxH35UANxoy9u7A12_HgNn2w7VIKrRg/s320/IMG_0758.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">More evidence of highway widening. The unfortunate thing is, with all of this highway action, that there is no environmental-control improvements. Ecuador has had the dirtiest air of any country we have visited on this trip; as a cyclist you are duly aware of this. If you happen upon the PanAmerican highway, or any well-travelled road in Ecuador, inevitably you will end up in a lingering cloud of black diesel particulate belched out by any number of trucks, pickups, buses, construction vehicles, etc.. In some areas, this black cloud hovers over the highway perpetually. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzxKyLGanMqVZ_E1i6V8xUWs9Etnq86jdKEx9jMikjnDzI3fN4qZadn-OHGnyoPS8-jthF2JCLWoiD3ytBd9IIiEHdS2z1OrHtf1pb6xd7J4vXaUVZ7ToUaynwGuZIwafumJWMCG1WQw/s1600/IMG_0869.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzxKyLGanMqVZ_E1i6V8xUWs9Etnq86jdKEx9jMikjnDzI3fN4qZadn-OHGnyoPS8-jthF2JCLWoiD3ytBd9IIiEHdS2z1OrHtf1pb6xd7J4vXaUVZ7ToUaynwGuZIwafumJWMCG1WQw/s200/IMG_0869.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Sign reads: Saturday, Holy Day. Respect it. Have Jews for Jesus invaded Ecuador?</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh44H_2CHNqmVyZsB0JnbFoBQKb5HE5M9c1MZbnJC352mpT61egvIyra931QDz16Cx25G4oFnL3fBralk888GcE1O3-t1jw-sKH8KgV7b7Sdp2HuOAIFllJN8vl_KhsOZURM-6T8GVhPQ/s1600/IMG_0871.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh44H_2CHNqmVyZsB0JnbFoBQKb5HE5M9c1MZbnJC352mpT61egvIyra931QDz16Cx25G4oFnL3fBralk888GcE1O3-t1jw-sKH8KgV7b7Sdp2HuOAIFllJN8vl_KhsOZURM-6T8GVhPQ/s320/IMG_0871.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Now in Riobamba, Chimborazo rises above the rooftops</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTIoRMJB-kajHxcK_S6E1FQBrp4wcpSyk20x_7KGowRPcwxHfY9-As927pVvAhjKp_7mnVBtEX0cuunfNuW3hz2BQYFIdGIk60_Mie9gLunMvjzvTplWi-dnmtHyQEkOfq8oRnHpvzQ/s1600/IMG_0873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWTIoRMJB-kajHxcK_S6E1FQBrp4wcpSyk20x_7KGowRPcwxHfY9-As927pVvAhjKp_7mnVBtEX0cuunfNuW3hz2BQYFIdGIk60_Mie9gLunMvjzvTplWi-dnmtHyQEkOfq8oRnHpvzQ/s200/IMG_0873.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">we were hosted in Riobamba by Norma, who picked us off the street corner at dusk and took us home. In Riobamba we rented moutaineering gear from Veloz Coronado Expeditions (esquina Chile y Francia), a very friendly family-run business. The gear was in great shape: double plastic boots, crampons, ice axes, mittens, glacier goggles added up to about $12/day.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjETVYY4vIxg7fT7fx7RqVPU56lBXPznKppq97sM9NLfozyKVZNI1OcNxjQBYKe8Gojp5RqLT0dZ2kKvCVwPwZpoaHIzS8AG25n9OdZDhly5QFNYbrO5zHtLsuoqxbRp9401LNFX48KLg/s1600/IMG_0878.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjETVYY4vIxg7fT7fx7RqVPU56lBXPznKppq97sM9NLfozyKVZNI1OcNxjQBYKe8Gojp5RqLT0dZ2kKvCVwPwZpoaHIzS8AG25n9OdZDhly5QFNYbrO5zHtLsuoqxbRp9401LNFX48KLg/s400/IMG_0878.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">now we are starting up Chimborazo for real. This is sunset on the 6310m peak, seen from the park entrance on the Riobamba-Guaranda road.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiWSCHAl3dujHFeEZmcUwh5wLpPwFFoS9ZJ6Kkv881HXudHRKs6QJ-JtRhyphenhyphen-xOk3awe8PxItw6XB1sAjp15OnBcT5uODXerNpGzeNyWJmubrkxsWX6RUk6iiyEEEUxFE5DImsEFMbNmg/s1600/IMG_0877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiWSCHAl3dujHFeEZmcUwh5wLpPwFFoS9ZJ6Kkv881HXudHRKs6QJ-JtRhyphenhyphen-xOk3awe8PxItw6XB1sAjp15OnBcT5uODXerNpGzeNyWJmubrkxsWX6RUk6iiyEEEUxFE5DImsEFMbNmg/s200/IMG_0877.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">high winds assailed us on the initial part of the climb to the lower refuge, at 4800m. We spent the first night at the lower refuge.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTpjwAcTS7u8HtCnnMWzMd0ZMstvsQ69UOrhkhwM_qmzCqugsNHn1fDn7UNQZSCVVNULoZ2l8G-B2koDL8Zy3ytTc-6A5LlUJ4mAy7dJXPtMfngfxCg9oHYG8_eBWAdak8OEpgxgJIdA/s1600/IMG_0882.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTpjwAcTS7u8HtCnnMWzMd0ZMstvsQ69UOrhkhwM_qmzCqugsNHn1fDn7UNQZSCVVNULoZ2l8G-B2koDL8Zy3ytTc-6A5LlUJ4mAy7dJXPtMfngfxCg9oHYG8_eBWAdak8OEpgxgJIdA/s320/IMG_0882.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... this whole area is a national wildlife refuge for vicuñas, which were reintroduced from Chilean populations in 1980...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw2hFaAGmreSmiFR-HOoupfIGXqRn_X03_b-rKUbwkL8GpmMjmziY_h9doUkMa3CYYJ29sO7l8uuIv5tJ4JtPJkwe12XX3X4m95-8RESBvOMr1aOKuLuhI5wso03jLexZdVPybq4-rUg/s1600/IMG_0883.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw2hFaAGmreSmiFR-HOoupfIGXqRn_X03_b-rKUbwkL8GpmMjmziY_h9doUkMa3CYYJ29sO7l8uuIv5tJ4JtPJkwe12XX3X4m95-8RESBvOMr1aOKuLuhI5wso03jLexZdVPybq4-rUg/s320/IMG_0883.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">vicuñas are cousins to llamas</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;">We spent the whole day and half the night at the upper refuge at 5000m, acclimating and relaxing before the climb:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7EZjh-BhKzfCOqLNKKJOZUppLXAOmcdv7Ab6mhZisXjicYCYXov4NF8dhA8q-jz06ktITnVUQO9DWGaB6XJTjXiR1E16WBFQfmW5cCi0zBBKRUsKDeoc52QmGh9JmxX4qCL_lO7gGw/s1600/IMG_0884.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7EZjh-BhKzfCOqLNKKJOZUppLXAOmcdv7Ab6mhZisXjicYCYXov4NF8dhA8q-jz06ktITnVUQO9DWGaB6XJTjXiR1E16WBFQfmW5cCi0zBBKRUsKDeoc52QmGh9JmxX4qCL_lO7gGw/s200/IMG_0884.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TTlAxlUMHaktHVXO9JUUmdUiuz3azkSEVSoupbGJIMp6Q5XFTVGqPsoEKlwDlVjqdB14UtGhKtkcc34O9SXFe1ivZW9Kg1XkzCiuT-8DAsmvPMoAwgIpJsEuFJGy90EiVHONZLdOZg/s1600/IMG_0885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TTlAxlUMHaktHVXO9JUUmdUiuz3azkSEVSoupbGJIMp6Q5XFTVGqPsoEKlwDlVjqdB14UtGhKtkcc34O9SXFe1ivZW9Kg1XkzCiuT-8DAsmvPMoAwgIpJsEuFJGy90EiVHONZLdOZg/s1600/IMG_0885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TTlAxlUMHaktHVXO9JUUmdUiuz3azkSEVSoupbGJIMp6Q5XFTVGqPsoEKlwDlVjqdB14UtGhKtkcc34O9SXFe1ivZW9Kg1XkzCiuT-8DAsmvPMoAwgIpJsEuFJGy90EiVHONZLdOZg/s1600/IMG_0885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TTlAxlUMHaktHVXO9JUUmdUiuz3azkSEVSoupbGJIMp6Q5XFTVGqPsoEKlwDlVjqdB14UtGhKtkcc34O9SXFe1ivZW9Kg1XkzCiuT-8DAsmvPMoAwgIpJsEuFJGy90EiVHONZLdOZg/s320/IMG_0885.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">the upper refuge</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjse83MY9Gr3olzNG_lmafDyphszyIXJsppCP6scrWc5dUUmEfl8o3xtVs7hHx1fYvBqgw8wwKGx8M8EBTVTAC8D2G71TEDFA2gtUETPkpVYDeO0jRHyCn4yjuLn2wFa4BEofxR-z_ORA/s1600/IMG_0888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjse83MY9Gr3olzNG_lmafDyphszyIXJsppCP6scrWc5dUUmEfl8o3xtVs7hHx1fYvBqgw8wwKGx8M8EBTVTAC8D2G71TEDFA2gtUETPkpVYDeO0jRHyCn4yjuLn2wFa4BEofxR-z_ORA/s320/IMG_0888.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Jason sports a FUBU jacket provided by Leo in Ambato, bringing back fond memories of Wiggers</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZbU7eUfBFe8SfeUeRauW1T0axzTsP2njxGooRUq6DQiDhgirVcgs1vj2mIhQlzYFlXJFLbNJ6fRCI1IdxziHMrPBAo1M2ZsUAtiXLgySblGRi_dlfsTpPOqUyHODR4N_EcdHWdHXcSQ/s1600/IMG_0890.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZbU7eUfBFe8SfeUeRauW1T0axzTsP2njxGooRUq6DQiDhgirVcgs1vj2mIhQlzYFlXJFLbNJ6fRCI1IdxziHMrPBAo1M2ZsUAtiXLgySblGRi_dlfsTpPOqUyHODR4N_EcdHWdHXcSQ/s400/IMG_0890.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... favorable weather at sunset time...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMmceINQZV83VvI9PdDDiCHdit9DztWGIDNhLCetDQJwTVpmJlMeWnLLZzeH2oIfYONUdqfx635RnJEyzyEwvHvL11ax55E64TICuz6XzAzwLxohzVsQqAdvr6nxNWwcCnWLrAVKFow/s1600/IMG_0892.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMmceINQZV83VvI9PdDDiCHdit9DztWGIDNhLCetDQJwTVpmJlMeWnLLZzeH2oIfYONUdqfx635RnJEyzyEwvHvL11ax55E64TICuz6XzAzwLxohzVsQqAdvr6nxNWwcCnWLrAVKFow/s400/IMG_0892.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">We started our climb at 1:30 AM, deeming that to be sufficient to arrive at the summit at sunrise. However, due to very low snow/ice levels on the mountain, the trail proved to be laced with rocks, making for very slow going, and uncomfortable progress (wearing crampons on rocks is hideous). However, because of ubiquitous black ice conditions, we had to keep our crampons on. We got lost below El Castillo in the middle of the night, not sure of the route and the climbers ahead of us having left no tracks. Golf ball size rocks were falling continuously from up above in the darkness, occasionally pelting us. We refound the route, but at 4AM, still not out of the Castillo area, in very high winds, and still at least 4-5 hours from the summit, we decided to turn back for the refuge and try again the following night.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA9NV3_IKE0a8BI8QVNpJzGVoyas3WSnY1pbSEoCZHNYfkmfwQ8GHNzdoPAm7wmxohPDqqWTxK0_bsCek6FcCKng_bcyviea2J0UOINGQSDIA9g2mjo3V76IY7LG8kTtx3a4IA3CUnWg/s1600/IMG_0887.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA9NV3_IKE0a8BI8QVNpJzGVoyas3WSnY1pbSEoCZHNYfkmfwQ8GHNzdoPAm7wmxohPDqqWTxK0_bsCek6FcCKng_bcyviea2J0UOINGQSDIA9g2mjo3V76IY7LG8kTtx3a4IA3CUnWg/s320/IMG_0887.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">a daytime shot of El Castillo (left of the glacier). In good climbing conditions, snow and ice cover most of this whole exposed section, and make for easier going.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimYNvPyV9Upkid7BUlubGx6AKmf-oChKDaWyXsteCN_haYNo-1P7CD3ctaJM5uPKJxz9BoTClTAStnR7c-hGnWYUQJAXwITNbWJtsvReJX2evuqYPvgthtm2RFz_ppJwclRBANzxn9Fw/s1600/IMG_0895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimYNvPyV9Upkid7BUlubGx6AKmf-oChKDaWyXsteCN_haYNo-1P7CD3ctaJM5uPKJxz9BoTClTAStnR7c-hGnWYUQJAXwITNbWJtsvReJX2evuqYPvgthtm2RFz_ppJwclRBANzxn9Fw/s320/IMG_0895.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Unfortunately, we were denied a second shot at the summit, as mist and fog rolled in late afternoon the following day. We decided to return to Riobamba. Chimborazo will have to wait for another day...</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheSqNnU_Ph_iXDaXBcdJx-gTbnJwr2l2tcjDolqqe2lmKGWLGaHxmrVgbFbuBQmS5Jt3TO5ipVDdEr5nYcokgChJhbw93F5mk7VPPxKzaYDfR1FqrOmFbzPvJogO1KYhCBrv8O8Uxa3A/s1600/IMG_0896.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheSqNnU_Ph_iXDaXBcdJx-gTbnJwr2l2tcjDolqqe2lmKGWLGaHxmrVgbFbuBQmS5Jt3TO5ipVDdEr5nYcokgChJhbw93F5mk7VPPxKzaYDfR1FqrOmFbzPvJogO1KYhCBrv8O8Uxa3A/s200/IMG_0896.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... evidence of disaster on the mountain. These gravestones mark the deaths of dozens of climbers on Chimborazo over the years...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZJHbHE0sDIULzEnA6WELNmGPu7Q6GIb4GlQzy6yYX-0SDyfk8onyJq17Z-Wv99fu7mAZm4ycvV8VQsZHyY4PVldLI_w-M5Xii1SU4Vq6JjBk-AdJYy7N8_g3x1K44VP9l50Ac4yxyg/s1600/IMG_0898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZJHbHE0sDIULzEnA6WELNmGPu7Q6GIb4GlQzy6yYX-0SDyfk8onyJq17Z-Wv99fu7mAZm4ycvV8VQsZHyY4PVldLI_w-M5Xii1SU4Vq6JjBk-AdJYy7N8_g3x1K44VP9l50Ac4yxyg/s320/IMG_0898.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9017963672628477909.post-38245336947797445852011-07-10T08:07:00.000-10:002011-07-10T08:07:03.983-10:00Segment 39: Pitalito, Colombia to Quito, Ecuador (June 8 - 21, 2011)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEmQHSQWJlRctWnQ74fyNuhqfKt5CaJFeDmYow7nve5vKe91KDlKAkCqg736AgZESAyh7BcQHziU7f8rZ7_sooZ1TJHuaR6_ZczTUeWcuPahyphenhyphenSB7gddxQtvPhUB-5rqnozwrTueNhqQ/s1600/IMG_0583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixEmQHSQWJlRctWnQ74fyNuhqfKt5CaJFeDmYow7nve5vKe91KDlKAkCqg736AgZESAyh7BcQHziU7f8rZ7_sooZ1TJHuaR6_ZczTUeWcuPahyphenhyphenSB7gddxQtvPhUB-5rqnozwrTueNhqQ/s320/IMG_0583.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">preparing to leave Pitalito, we found some of the best cookies of the whole trip: whole wheat with honey and raisins, among other things. We bought 50 to fuel our ride.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7XqOWPDn-x6UBkWBGOulGqX4aV_VZiiw3veI87C-CN42JDRNS1CcOCIidzr9DH8ljXxmE8k-H7rb1tpanzUSEXxlhPD1_nEL1dKT_WW21lHqXhQzYgr5jLcFmLENshkTHkXhwXmDUmA/s1600/IMG_0584.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7XqOWPDn-x6UBkWBGOulGqX4aV_VZiiw3veI87C-CN42JDRNS1CcOCIidzr9DH8ljXxmE8k-H7rb1tpanzUSEXxlhPD1_nEL1dKT_WW21lHqXhQzYgr5jLcFmLENshkTHkXhwXmDUmA/s320/IMG_0584.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">climbing out of Pitalito, we stopped for roadside granadilla, a passion fruit-like fruit grown in the area:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5YKcUXD-9uBHsDUGxu3ZkZhBhg0gEybS7NV3xxiWZHQcCYJSiIDgvqsT6wr6lsXbNbPo9Ec5XurhBYAioZCAxbGEqcGxoOhIFx-Q2hlEynL3yVUEJEBwMGpX2aDZCmS2NdJUdYTmhDw/s1600/IMG_0587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5YKcUXD-9uBHsDUGxu3ZkZhBhg0gEybS7NV3xxiWZHQcCYJSiIDgvqsT6wr6lsXbNbPo9Ec5XurhBYAioZCAxbGEqcGxoOhIFx-Q2hlEynL3yVUEJEBwMGpX2aDZCmS2NdJUdYTmhDw/s200/IMG_0587.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">absolutely delicious</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSRgpOAyhBevlAvs99ccXVpAoO_coO0HwmQ-c5I9_ZPkmvxk18_PRGC5zG9-D7X1i62B_K9P0-h9tFxA7-l1r3JqxTyQ8fz8W-BnIJqNdwrfJvu-uqizoF1U2EiiDGTyDBj5wqOBXNgw/s1600/IMG_0589.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSRgpOAyhBevlAvs99ccXVpAoO_coO0HwmQ-c5I9_ZPkmvxk18_PRGC5zG9-D7X1i62B_K9P0-h9tFxA7-l1r3JqxTyQ8fz8W-BnIJqNdwrfJvu-uqizoF1U2EiiDGTyDBj5wqOBXNgw/s320/IMG_0589.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">in Mocoa now, near the edge of the Colombian Amazon, contemplating a big climb back into the highlands</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdQS1Zg8YHspYGe4MWt10oE3m9b9d7fZrR8NbUmKJ2oz8hNvBX_eZlUbkFLpumRMvguJ6wt-avdzjKmr5xJAEoFCgEwnXFHgSVpoNtDBM_x31PHj3FYQUNWinNcOOV3LR-qx3nhYETBw/s1600/IMG_0590.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdQS1Zg8YHspYGe4MWt10oE3m9b9d7fZrR8NbUmKJ2oz8hNvBX_eZlUbkFLpumRMvguJ6wt-avdzjKmr5xJAEoFCgEwnXFHgSVpoNtDBM_x31PHj3FYQUNWinNcOOV3LR-qx3nhYETBw/s320/IMG_0590.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> low foothills as we start up</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHU0Rm2u6VL4vvfeaHtdvvT49w4KwEuUuua_twPkw2wpFGACIOziyfTnzdU8i1V9dJiytalF5RbcjGopitRLgBNbKdsfSM4BgOro79YwCQ8ut3bI9sU8K_ZW9Xii5en65yRMM219yYHQ/s1600/IMG_0595.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHU0Rm2u6VL4vvfeaHtdvvT49w4KwEuUuua_twPkw2wpFGACIOziyfTnzdU8i1V9dJiytalF5RbcjGopitRLgBNbKdsfSM4BgOro79YwCQ8ut3bI9sU8K_ZW9Xii5en65yRMM219yYHQ/s400/IMG_0595.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">view from our roadside campsite at dusk, our road snaking an warily climbing up into the mountains</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKMLS8kJIJzJVIwu-ww1asKSJgYWVP3YViUz5iaPi9E9z8fDOzqY63XtaTv2kgGIBqLKqLi0zH86sbMEU2Phx57hFvqqg5LfGcw1Ho2xam1PE641dxtgeN9JqZPYpiSn4wyfvFjJqZw/s1600/IMG_0598.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKMLS8kJIJzJVIwu-ww1asKSJgYWVP3YViUz5iaPi9E9z8fDOzqY63XtaTv2kgGIBqLKqLi0zH86sbMEU2Phx57hFvqqg5LfGcw1Ho2xam1PE641dxtgeN9JqZPYpiSn4wyfvFjJqZw/s320/IMG_0598.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">this is good adventure </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPatFk6OgEBRJqAcuks1FXd5-cYapBdj256SbvLbP1uWN9igAdS19xM1hGAq3b9i9hDmqxfaJjO5uVa5iV1V7pGh2scxJzOGm4gYgfh8C6nL3UyQgoCu08ExI23q1uq996LEDDHJ_KIA/s1600/IMG_0600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPatFk6OgEBRJqAcuks1FXd5-cYapBdj256SbvLbP1uWN9igAdS19xM1hGAq3b9i9hDmqxfaJjO5uVa5iV1V7pGh2scxJzOGm4gYgfh8C6nL3UyQgoCu08ExI23q1uq996LEDDHJ_KIA/s320/IMG_0600.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXDBDFHvFEkdo_YsbSihfoWVJBti7yU-Rkxx3JlMGo2-KbvJfAPl_7xlFTBezg9BrQ4_6AvS70UVRV8euI6nl3ThQIlFsJQdWQ7zqWSEvx3heGpJpAGTSs_ZW7loK8DSlFwLP6JXLkg/s1600/IMG_0601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXDBDFHvFEkdo_YsbSihfoWVJBti7yU-Rkxx3JlMGo2-KbvJfAPl_7xlFTBezg9BrQ4_6AvS70UVRV8euI6nl3ThQIlFsJQdWQ7zqWSEvx3heGpJpAGTSs_ZW7loK8DSlFwLP6JXLkg/s320/IMG_0601.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">DANGER: rockfall</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Wsv7DwvLGKEEX9PKZe9KTx3j8vJuqarv3UWa58neaPHHCigGv_v-P1EcyKKL-zC2hLSdxsYoZwtrcE6BEQhKZF_VFXuXzdMrr2XrUFU8YuPEcErHeefyGJYnze9Dh-sAR1jPRRBtpg/s1600/IMG_0602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Wsv7DwvLGKEEX9PKZe9KTx3j8vJuqarv3UWa58neaPHHCigGv_v-P1EcyKKL-zC2hLSdxsYoZwtrcE6BEQhKZF_VFXuXzdMrr2XrUFU8YuPEcErHeefyGJYnze9Dh-sAR1jPRRBtpg/s320/IMG_0602.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Jeff working his way up... in all 55km or so of mostly steep climbing and very rough road</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTDaZUEN_c7aeCG3B-ERInP5cJtxDkbJqkijxY15T6wWV7wjP0zpZsG8V2808nKvdWIu4ANhchFWHl-BSA13-FCWup80T2BuEzQ6r51_u-2qCvg8rOutOAAAWohRHT0gd0OstxOEcXYQ/s1600/IMG_0604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTDaZUEN_c7aeCG3B-ERInP5cJtxDkbJqkijxY15T6wWV7wjP0zpZsG8V2808nKvdWIu4ANhchFWHl-BSA13-FCWup80T2BuEzQ6r51_u-2qCvg8rOutOAAAWohRHT0gd0OstxOEcXYQ/s400/IMG_0604.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">looking out towards the Amazon basin of Colombia</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG0X2pL0YvS1VH-QisWRO2m7u4A5D_v6J7UGSAzqYc9DwANOe0kPB4hgzUfWv_ZcH_SqL6-DpUfwrhhVV2BlXQeKZw6vUBlc7eZBVgku5hyphenhyphenNJiC9hcpXxfJO7sI6byf6KSQBnRMhQn4g/s1600/IMG_0606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG0X2pL0YvS1VH-QisWRO2m7u4A5D_v6J7UGSAzqYc9DwANOe0kPB4hgzUfWv_ZcH_SqL6-DpUfwrhhVV2BlXQeKZw6vUBlc7eZBVgku5hyphenhyphenNJiC9hcpXxfJO7sI6byf6KSQBnRMhQn4g/s320/IMG_0606.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">a broken-down truck caused a huge traffic jam for everyone except us. Here all the folks stuck on the road are coming to check us out.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKTi4iL2-2aJ2DNFqtUy8LQBquvuagq6hVW1TPS0O48FZNOpjP_mXIGVepgqdEkF6z5HaYSqVhixgxnFdfgoXcPTYx54R8TR1nnAx4kGnp6Ge-U4XTYufmynnJakvJkG2k0DyRuVRYAw/s1600/IMG_0609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKTi4iL2-2aJ2DNFqtUy8LQBquvuagq6hVW1TPS0O48FZNOpjP_mXIGVepgqdEkF6z5HaYSqVhixgxnFdfgoXcPTYx54R8TR1nnAx4kGnp6Ge-U4XTYufmynnJakvJkG2k0DyRuVRYAw/s400/IMG_0609.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">dense foggy forest on the eastern slopes of the Andes </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;">The following pictures will make you want to smash your computer screen and go grab a bicycle:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlvSoaKzGzAHPeGxT0C5r-vwKPkHH6bGzb6SuGkHBozCYhfWLs_fWmTepo3-KkyUI62wFmY8B-JiZcnNtGw_WjcSJ0zvx-YerQc0qPT4JwGzax8_GUJ_lKn-yZVX8SqNiuNAHm3jwsQ/s1600/IMG_0611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlvSoaKzGzAHPeGxT0C5r-vwKPkHH6bGzb6SuGkHBozCYhfWLs_fWmTepo3-KkyUI62wFmY8B-JiZcnNtGw_WjcSJ0zvx-YerQc0qPT4JwGzax8_GUJ_lKn-yZVX8SqNiuNAHm3jwsQ/s320/IMG_0611.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowUvifGp1ZG9tTLI1iVwWwMvBu4kcNGp0m6S4AQH61IGPjGKmoUU9Ud3cMlzIigC5hEGE9LYCWODTdq3A1mnG-8inRJfZWl9DTbUDb9ywSJtbSJRqE4p6_MT47P25iH55YTxQjSyoeg/s1600/IMG_0614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowUvifGp1ZG9tTLI1iVwWwMvBu4kcNGp0m6S4AQH61IGPjGKmoUU9Ud3cMlzIigC5hEGE9LYCWODTdq3A1mnG-8inRJfZWl9DTbUDb9ywSJtbSJRqE4p6_MT47P25iH55YTxQjSyoeg/s320/IMG_0614.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_WAilzyjHNCd_yASJiSifE41NIU4bggxFVoIC0hXJAfdLoshVNWHyZZ5Pg9WeO1guqOAp9K1_ONPo9yljzYwLl-jfYunHlHw9yiQRz3zcaMEVj2q3rwheDucbN_pQNqrw4u4qoZviHg/s1600/IMG_0617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_WAilzyjHNCd_yASJiSifE41NIU4bggxFVoIC0hXJAfdLoshVNWHyZZ5Pg9WeO1guqOAp9K1_ONPo9yljzYwLl-jfYunHlHw9yiQRz3zcaMEVj2q3rwheDucbN_pQNqrw4u4qoZviHg/s320/IMG_0617.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBVZqrvpiX1Pz9YdwCXwsYUZJ_51ez4UoXe3QUcyBpGVExxXfSkdkAWs6tXRtVTf6q4Lh-V6bNtBI-UeUuQ0AA58dJQmIpi3nO-lBbQb9sQbsrBpoeKvFwgqVEirNz9EDwiwoRyGdFHA/s1600/IMG_0618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBVZqrvpiX1Pz9YdwCXwsYUZJ_51ez4UoXe3QUcyBpGVExxXfSkdkAWs6tXRtVTf6q4Lh-V6bNtBI-UeUuQ0AA58dJQmIpi3nO-lBbQb9sQbsrBpoeKvFwgqVEirNz9EDwiwoRyGdFHA/s320/IMG_0618.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXWE6cmo0_Q5gPmRq2E9if9-T0I9uy7pXgPoGmlSArEcYd2VSHVKLotla39qnaNEgc35tk2GSoz_2C9VJqKAeavwr7ZhZQti0pbCGuxQXTVwPEbGn4n8Bhx6y45uDCyzZhQOFDpU0Qw/s1600/IMG_0622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXWE6cmo0_Q5gPmRq2E9if9-T0I9uy7pXgPoGmlSArEcYd2VSHVKLotla39qnaNEgc35tk2GSoz_2C9VJqKAeavwr7ZhZQti0pbCGuxQXTVwPEbGn4n8Bhx6y45uDCyzZhQOFDpU0Qw/s320/IMG_0622.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">cruising past an avalanche</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz51HqZPVZXoUbVmAJ2zYzAciZbEFBQwF6ObB8IhKl1GhpiDWBkZlnWGsygUR6Y3xEOGW6LEoHRxD4KfJKZX0801yKxYnHbhdd2iB2JEj9YcgfGxkt-3SHTGcIGP4OD3QfYIVFuLwUCA/s1600/IMG_0623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz51HqZPVZXoUbVmAJ2zYzAciZbEFBQwF6ObB8IhKl1GhpiDWBkZlnWGsygUR6Y3xEOGW6LEoHRxD4KfJKZX0801yKxYnHbhdd2iB2JEj9YcgfGxkt-3SHTGcIGP4OD3QfYIVFuLwUCA/s320/IMG_0623.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
... entering a thick gorge...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYtbqWkYcPHLLQbdZIbkSGXUeV5aq41d6q-ku0v6UmaFSH1aYkAaxNjYKqotH3dM6xTNsIexKKLMBRD7S71zx3sNyMP6B9F6xqBP6EYjXtZP4DBceOaKs5zB6Gszoj54rGUCxVRZeb8g/s1600/IMG_0630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYtbqWkYcPHLLQbdZIbkSGXUeV5aq41d6q-ku0v6UmaFSH1aYkAaxNjYKqotH3dM6xTNsIexKKLMBRD7S71zx3sNyMP6B9F6xqBP6EYjXtZP4DBceOaKs5zB6Gszoj54rGUCxVRZeb8g/s320/IMG_0630.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijg8soMrGdYEH0SV7X1CFG-Ii1Y8hvIiEBEni3CxivvwXKYeB7Pwda92cpKddV575eovI63ANRzHvVM5gJms7IBVi6XE1Vl3Xq01DE78Sz-KXNS-TJ41S94FWyg1qByvhq3luyunIFHg/s1600/IMG_0635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijg8soMrGdYEH0SV7X1CFG-Ii1Y8hvIiEBEni3CxivvwXKYeB7Pwda92cpKddV575eovI63ANRzHvVM5gJms7IBVi6XE1Vl3Xq01DE78Sz-KXNS-TJ41S94FWyg1qByvhq3luyunIFHg/s200/IMG_0635.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">.. roadside flowers...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqR9mApBsLTXS2Pzq3a_w306uEscNuFdbJpxGC4t_z-_S4a-Eb0oaAuXHJcMLMZa8Za76JKCnoSWYnUQRY2hDFuj_2XiN0C_NOsSUkXTs-lCRtAykpTcbko5_WYB7ThtZJLfh4v8ZsMQ/s1600/IMG_0636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqR9mApBsLTXS2Pzq3a_w306uEscNuFdbJpxGC4t_z-_S4a-Eb0oaAuXHJcMLMZa8Za76JKCnoSWYnUQRY2hDFuj_2XiN0C_NOsSUkXTs-lCRtAykpTcbko5_WYB7ThtZJLfh4v8ZsMQ/s200/IMG_0636.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiffxlXK2yL9Hiv_BxWreQroxO2p1Pe2mA6h24Pr7lwhRqXBxAUs3VROZfKPcrTopTv62KFHDBK9BmawaQwMQNb9OQZH6bT4p-5S94uZsUhXqEWHvl9hujS_6NbU86_TIZ3B8pW-7A4iw/s1600/IMG_0639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiffxlXK2yL9Hiv_BxWreQroxO2p1Pe2mA6h24Pr7lwhRqXBxAUs3VROZfKPcrTopTv62KFHDBK9BmawaQwMQNb9OQZH6bT4p-5S94uZsUhXqEWHvl9hujS_6NbU86_TIZ3B8pW-7A4iw/s400/IMG_0639.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">this is the kind of road where everything clicks: low traffic, insane adventure, fun riding, fantastic landscapes</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEils7rbWHsWJ1V6XwGllh1LuyZOC8Br7vwMixB1IOzVCM0V-hS6CG2rhHRNEW34gy45I7B5C17jUrdqWHnfgaeBE0Pk6yrLwus_k7Tni2bTpnueKd9siicewPX9lclyVZPoVtMdS8jrdw/s1600/IMG_0643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEils7rbWHsWJ1V6XwGllh1LuyZOC8Br7vwMixB1IOzVCM0V-hS6CG2rhHRNEW34gy45I7B5C17jUrdqWHnfgaeBE0Pk6yrLwus_k7Tni2bTpnueKd9siicewPX9lclyVZPoVtMdS8jrdw/s320/IMG_0643.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Craig negotiates a flooded road as we approach this rest stop:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI4OXt6YZ10qbuWkTODU3DBLB-tOLdLz0jFJIXGXgPjJeOH4Q0_kDhtdOCF30BvcSQoz0KByKvr4lY6s_z_gohlip67_TyOhE3R3fja7pLdAGmGgAfjpbb3mFFc4GXRk-HZckNGGZHA/s1600/IMG_0644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixI4OXt6YZ10qbuWkTODU3DBLB-tOLdLz0jFJIXGXgPjJeOH4Q0_kDhtdOCF30BvcSQoz0KByKvr4lY6s_z_gohlip67_TyOhE3R3fja7pLdAGmGgAfjpbb3mFFc4GXRk-HZckNGGZHA/s320/IMG_0644.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtu8Y7Zklps3I0csIeu6KivoOKC4GklRuFuCzi1vedcMLAVBpW7jsdWOBjW838Dvjzgi8CGkOwFaW-9Qab5XOkGDJ-GcHHopy_JLaStABWZfEx8o9QSkxleRVMKFurZeAkNkfkF7HP8Q/s1600/IMG_0645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtu8Y7Zklps3I0csIeu6KivoOKC4GklRuFuCzi1vedcMLAVBpW7jsdWOBjW838Dvjzgi8CGkOwFaW-9Qab5XOkGDJ-GcHHopy_JLaStABWZfEx8o9QSkxleRVMKFurZeAkNkfkF7HP8Q/s320/IMG_0645.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">fast, rainy dirt road descent in the mountains!</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9d1znewdXfZ-J8rGuLrzsQoecxmI5WCk5DCo-F5DxhQ_hPEYNAGdko6OStbjtUW7DP9KXjOTIMSj3ku14yl0iEkKmKbopplOnW97Qs5f_DiMxweVGSW1VCja7QT_mmMqEDEeJ6RIybA/s1600/IMG_0653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9d1znewdXfZ-J8rGuLrzsQoecxmI5WCk5DCo-F5DxhQ_hPEYNAGdko6OStbjtUW7DP9KXjOTIMSj3ku14yl0iEkKmKbopplOnW97Qs5f_DiMxweVGSW1VCja7QT_mmMqEDEeJ6RIybA/s320/IMG_0653.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... on our way to Pasto we spent the night in this abandoned shack on the side of the road...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2w81Z1CwGeoiPF2nogfPAFayzPQloAZmrt7OBVBVNhGRe7QLU7pibTXJYRviHNZdWUo6Ha4TF4LY2dLWhQXhR7Lu5gVm91Ol7oicZEQBLvPSjatodMHrWoEiBli6bLhtmPXDNI6ZZSw/s1600/IMG_0652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2w81Z1CwGeoiPF2nogfPAFayzPQloAZmrt7OBVBVNhGRe7QLU7pibTXJYRviHNZdWUo6Ha4TF4LY2dLWhQXhR7Lu5gVm91Ol7oicZEQBLvPSjatodMHrWoEiBli6bLhtmPXDNI6ZZSw/s320/IMG_0652.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsCrgxe_RsJl3EoMRYAe_FuXtrzoUVgQCWwOAchVmy0s0JlOf-os_iwcJaJRsNT2cFkE6-FqU2HkpEX17QsPUZ4yOvCeN4R6yHaJiNQLdDM0pU2wClueW2h0K04UW9Ub_Ev8sle51pA/s1600/IMG_0655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsCrgxe_RsJl3EoMRYAe_FuXtrzoUVgQCWwOAchVmy0s0JlOf-os_iwcJaJRsNT2cFkE6-FqU2HkpEX17QsPUZ4yOvCeN4R6yHaJiNQLdDM0pU2wClueW2h0K04UW9Ub_Ev8sle51pA/s400/IMG_0655.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">the hills around Pasto, Colombia </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdf9OdD-EHjOqFTifw5yI9UqhDggIIGMsBf2MrYdPmttOpa6m0wQpRDaCRdghWSQ792fXHn5SThPwzVbMHSKWDjYNP44uppu7DfuSittH8KmQCuO6K210Uym7RT58ji8zfuiKPF14bqg/s1600/IMG_0662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdf9OdD-EHjOqFTifw5yI9UqhDggIIGMsBf2MrYdPmttOpa6m0wQpRDaCRdghWSQ792fXHn5SThPwzVbMHSKWDjYNP44uppu7DfuSittH8KmQCuO6K210Uym7RT58ji8zfuiKPF14bqg/s320/IMG_0662.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">arrived in Ecuador, hand-painted license plates and all</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaO8xxJvrliBBLeZPzyXTMpfHDRR-2fnYO3W8GVLAVz3Oi_RsdMyx-1UMxkjCj6VmdYv-lktgQIpFbPh6L4WNN6ECyCuiMtLZ-PxXxu_wBNeM_-U6TgEiGqJP0oMyyy6lKRI5Y3LYgWQ/s1600/IMG_0663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaO8xxJvrliBBLeZPzyXTMpfHDRR-2fnYO3W8GVLAVz3Oi_RsdMyx-1UMxkjCj6VmdYv-lktgQIpFbPh6L4WNN6ECyCuiMtLZ-PxXxu_wBNeM_-U6TgEiGqJP0oMyyy6lKRI5Y3LYgWQ/s320/IMG_0663.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... we were hosted by the Federación Deportiva del Carchi at the olympic stadium in Tulcán...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc_h4fvbMtvu3P5HlrM6gYdO4RqMM330UGNAkgKy18C_NufOcuUvWFypqJ3scAs22WKioYIQCURD7wWY9Xr7avgt77wEga6mqBBgWSSJi-Jof-SYSPmCXZZOIvz-2wddLg7aqh_CpU1A/s1600/IMG_0664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc_h4fvbMtvu3P5HlrM6gYdO4RqMM330UGNAkgKy18C_NufOcuUvWFypqJ3scAs22WKioYIQCURD7wWY9Xr7avgt77wEga6mqBBgWSSJi-Jof-SYSPmCXZZOIvz-2wddLg7aqh_CpU1A/s320/IMG_0664.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQHkhVfcksA_fqdvrNlqHs7S10Gj4lNO3IkgbYEdUJ4ROct4qy2dQT35256cmgOmyVJHBbZs0SdKoUsoqWbQJoxJIOslX_y-ApZDbT9t0ItyXD2mAMJaE8oNL5igZ3PJiGUcCjRtlt1w/s1600/IMG_0656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQHkhVfcksA_fqdvrNlqHs7S10Gj4lNO3IkgbYEdUJ4ROct4qy2dQT35256cmgOmyVJHBbZs0SdKoUsoqWbQJoxJIOslX_y-ApZDbT9t0ItyXD2mAMJaE8oNL5igZ3PJiGUcCjRtlt1w/s320/IMG_0656.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">roadside calabazas</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcuyIHk98NQUXLqbzzGAtm5o2x97j61wjzrYiXgVo-BFOXNcDZXKIi196ZlmrI6uuSaQn8ccRZ2gBBS0SdyJ-TB6e4CYTeEVMxgSa4rmHjdR3mcPI0evBUSvBe1Be1Qnx5EX-m_wNLpg/s1600/IMG_0657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcuyIHk98NQUXLqbzzGAtm5o2x97j61wjzrYiXgVo-BFOXNcDZXKIi196ZlmrI6uuSaQn8ccRZ2gBBS0SdyJ-TB6e4CYTeEVMxgSa4rmHjdR3mcPI0evBUSvBe1Be1Qnx5EX-m_wNLpg/s320/IMG_0657.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">street snacks in Tulcán</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnimbn0AKdVyydJH_M_8fVcZTbl0s-WETUvL6m1y0IchXzpjLpOPF_lNpP0ANTC4rGHw5rranBYfgLcGouCh8sHeIRy0s802KtxxnJ1PbmLd7IKaF325vt5-zwBBAZVKEVBSf052Nplg/s1600/IMG_0659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnimbn0AKdVyydJH_M_8fVcZTbl0s-WETUvL6m1y0IchXzpjLpOPF_lNpP0ANTC4rGHw5rranBYfgLcGouCh8sHeIRy0s802KtxxnJ1PbmLd7IKaF325vt5-zwBBAZVKEVBSf052Nplg/s320/IMG_0659.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">a street musician in Tulcán</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjklfJ3xK8EW7-mbVfTQdLVMAkxnO8SQioJjsurCsdCtYaxJFCT5cIdOVfdib42NexudBUaFFhtPFlWmi-ApOBpeF2L1LOnPhsJ82BIJC-oFG2ONQtZZ_hD4NwTO7956HBRi2rC5mRIiQ/s1600/IMG_0660.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjklfJ3xK8EW7-mbVfTQdLVMAkxnO8SQioJjsurCsdCtYaxJFCT5cIdOVfdib42NexudBUaFFhtPFlWmi-ApOBpeF2L1LOnPhsJ82BIJC-oFG2ONQtZZ_hD4NwTO7956HBRi2rC5mRIiQ/s320/IMG_0660.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">market in Tulcán- unlike Colombia, where public markets are nearly nonexistent, Ecuador thrives with hundreds of them</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijl1mCoPTFfA59eHT3TqZFBd1Pw1NcHUmHlkuY7p1K7BZyjfE3qFdxHX9MJnLUgfDUw_wNW7xDOlPRPlv_seIaTEzjtz39wQ_LJxYaLprEk4Lo0O6zHjo68n1kVNDS8O1UKULN66F02Q/s1600/IMG_0666.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijl1mCoPTFfA59eHT3TqZFBd1Pw1NcHUmHlkuY7p1K7BZyjfE3qFdxHX9MJnLUgfDUw_wNW7xDOlPRPlv_seIaTEzjtz39wQ_LJxYaLprEk4Lo0O6zHjo68n1kVNDS8O1UKULN66F02Q/s320/IMG_0666.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">...scenes from San Gabriel, Ecuador...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWPJcmZuNhEuM2YWSvmaCau8U-S8U5ktvhBapWhog0t2w_oDLBZKRbcHaxcB5Fpe-BCz26RZVa3Hiw5jb-S-k13dyOa9Wil-J9EXFWaPTwA4qSfBrbgrIYkBm3rFTpBsB3vJ3laCbB-Q/s1600/IMG_0668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWPJcmZuNhEuM2YWSvmaCau8U-S8U5ktvhBapWhog0t2w_oDLBZKRbcHaxcB5Fpe-BCz26RZVa3Hiw5jb-S-k13dyOa9Wil-J9EXFWaPTwA4qSfBrbgrIYkBm3rFTpBsB3vJ3laCbB-Q/s320/IMG_0668.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">this is a huge pot of delicious puffy corn</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4UGGctohlnbDkvYzBwamZPGrMbZLSly8dpuU-NhUwdAive7pv3-Gx1hOzTf9eZqJ_y6t38nTDlsqU6Gm3AbnoG11wM2OZqpfskFcNCqYH9BvS8LwYKfFfOYa3yXp4TkRfe2H61OcRQg/s1600/IMG_0670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4UGGctohlnbDkvYzBwamZPGrMbZLSly8dpuU-NhUwdAive7pv3-Gx1hOzTf9eZqJ_y6t38nTDlsqU6Gm3AbnoG11wM2OZqpfskFcNCqYH9BvS8LwYKfFfOYa3yXp4TkRfe2H61OcRQg/s320/IMG_0670.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">unusual in Ecuador, an African descent community in the highlands, in the Chota valley south of San Gabriel... here they have taken over half of the PanAm to thresh black beans</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicR3l2gJgy3hhSMDCE7iDn943qUfO0ujvgZ1fYsiMv5PJSL7qSIUqPAu74DOS1e2KQoPVhu-yoG1E_d3eTcX2zFOps5_0PsXPUAS4egQZLKE8YCgWgTGGb7unCzeLGwLen11u3Jj442w/s1600/IMG_0673.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicR3l2gJgy3hhSMDCE7iDn943qUfO0ujvgZ1fYsiMv5PJSL7qSIUqPAu74DOS1e2KQoPVhu-yoG1E_d3eTcX2zFOps5_0PsXPUAS4egQZLKE8YCgWgTGGb7unCzeLGwLen11u3Jj442w/s400/IMG_0673.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">view from a rest stop</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8lpOTvhGBUYbcn1hn_WauqIKuiKOH2_8mjnYwBZiDMm5NWbN0liYbdd63PB2JADepwEpMx6qTw8BbFt7u-JqHotmDVIF5CulaBQ78mGAF0Qobz34qBGFgwP5LinfJtoIRlJoidhrIA/s1600/IMG_0677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8lpOTvhGBUYbcn1hn_WauqIKuiKOH2_8mjnYwBZiDMm5NWbN0liYbdd63PB2JADepwEpMx6qTw8BbFt7u-JqHotmDVIF5CulaBQ78mGAF0Qobz34qBGFgwP5LinfJtoIRlJoidhrIA/s320/IMG_0677.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... our campsite in unusually dry conditions...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_NvFT0qnAvuVlqCh3JLJc5ftRwfeHkpqQgn8_o3E6E8K5ZGu1naV2yvOBtQs8899nQ0e5UgB6dyHzgRl69Y5oFSlIXttzoWw3WI7SmOEniu0X1nWjx5WsUeFU-IwUji_9XRspFs-mtg/s1600/IMG_0678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_NvFT0qnAvuVlqCh3JLJc5ftRwfeHkpqQgn8_o3E6E8K5ZGu1naV2yvOBtQs8899nQ0e5UgB6dyHzgRl69Y5oFSlIXttzoWw3WI7SmOEniu0X1nWjx5WsUeFU-IwUji_9XRspFs-mtg/s400/IMG_0678.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwEXvZ_6P250bYe5BFgMkdegxF1m-yLGkVTWpsT_r1yuwHEIjYRKSscimYpl5sq0TmkCtAwFK5TIPGDGDpzKRGDqi0o5DZZ-g7VjLc3qj2DHL9lBvAfBHVv7njw97DCcDD4gy9x3LNLg/s1600/IMG_0681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwEXvZ_6P250bYe5BFgMkdegxF1m-yLGkVTWpsT_r1yuwHEIjYRKSscimYpl5sq0TmkCtAwFK5TIPGDGDpzKRGDqi0o5DZZ-g7VjLc3qj2DHL9lBvAfBHVv7njw97DCcDD4gy9x3LNLg/s320/IMG_0681.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Otavalo market, selling bread</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_69Nr1grLkEHClGYIjgHE0ymPSqNzoCcAeU3fgmJ-PFZITfMCjgHMWFl9DrJvfvaqJtlXTUd6uhKJM-hQWcMm0fJ3M0tLJ25Oh6slCoj8FpvE3PKWJFeY9VS2dnhLDPfeWzQufAdiw/s1600/IMG_0682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_69Nr1grLkEHClGYIjgHE0ymPSqNzoCcAeU3fgmJ-PFZITfMCjgHMWFl9DrJvfvaqJtlXTUd6uhKJM-hQWcMm0fJ3M0tLJ25Oh6slCoj8FpvE3PKWJFeY9VS2dnhLDPfeWzQufAdiw/s320/IMG_0682.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Jeff climbing up out of Otavalo on a Sunday morning, great dirt road riding...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC5xnQcLHyf7w5eCnPdBVnwVE7Xt8Dt_B3l3BEWw7rduR63XbKSI2etuUuaIipqMNz96j2L8_sVApSVDXzzih5u2t3lviFe5YG2_x4WM4J1LOSswXLf7JD4_wH1ak4A_jcvjCK_zGsUA/s1600/IMG_0684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC5xnQcLHyf7w5eCnPdBVnwVE7Xt8Dt_B3l3BEWw7rduR63XbKSI2etuUuaIipqMNz96j2L8_sVApSVDXzzih5u2t3lviFe5YG2_x4WM4J1LOSswXLf7JD4_wH1ak4A_jcvjCK_zGsUA/s320/IMG_0684.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1hKZ1EO3koh1zbGn_rTAIlGk70EdWo2gvB8Fwoe5YZiezKDqeSmjj-Z624NFwHF96zMAwpEnXt2BuRLNz6izO1Q3MmBQS0DrtchxzlIJug9MEa6ht4RzhRLNihMDDknqhoV4UR1LVw/s1600/IMG_0685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd1hKZ1EO3koh1zbGn_rTAIlGk70EdWo2gvB8Fwoe5YZiezKDqeSmjj-Z624NFwHF96zMAwpEnXt2BuRLNz6izO1Q3MmBQS0DrtchxzlIJug9MEa6ht4RzhRLNihMDDknqhoV4UR1LVw/s320/IMG_0685.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHgEbePnHAbdQox5HriXXapMHoEhuhaIsYV6hZG69A4ap566_C-5tH8YcZ0z4bxR3zZNyGFmFOJWQmxSo62bln3A8o88BMAxhsmbX1qqk2C101Mao-ec61e0NvdfLLbMFLZ2ewZtZ8yQ/s1600/IMG_0686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHgEbePnHAbdQox5HriXXapMHoEhuhaIsYV6hZG69A4ap566_C-5tH8YcZ0z4bxR3zZNyGFmFOJWQmxSo62bln3A8o88BMAxhsmbX1qqk2C101Mao-ec61e0NvdfLLbMFLZ2ewZtZ8yQ/s320/IMG_0686.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">beautiful yes, not the easiest riding surface however</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6X5H9atdBjiDP6X2zNLaL2-GuZDCYw4gHFT8oK6Q4zBFw4IHE0_c8RN0Y66oT_1iBxHVL6_kdG9EpM9Edu1EDPfbHHXMjUadlBLGNjGzrPqpsZcsrHStDvEufSUSqQaygDIWWQLtPHw/s1600/IMG_0689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6X5H9atdBjiDP6X2zNLaL2-GuZDCYw4gHFT8oK6Q4zBFw4IHE0_c8RN0Y66oT_1iBxHVL6_kdG9EpM9Edu1EDPfbHHXMjUadlBLGNjGzrPqpsZcsrHStDvEufSUSqQaygDIWWQLtPHw/s320/IMG_0689.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">... Craig climbing... (on cobblestone roads)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZU_0sNws-4R7vVLq9Ju1THCxu7TE3l1cjDwGe1IOt2jCd6m_uAIPDOHe7G4tEFH4EQmejsenhqsuHdyrgQNdvl56TS84EfWoVDQPMQJQYqupd3uLo_flTFKQKQu7IUYI1l-Yg0PvJ-A/s1600/IMG_0691.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZU_0sNws-4R7vVLq9Ju1THCxu7TE3l1cjDwGe1IOt2jCd6m_uAIPDOHe7G4tEFH4EQmejsenhqsuHdyrgQNdvl56TS84EfWoVDQPMQJQYqupd3uLo_flTFKQKQu7IUYI1l-Yg0PvJ-A/s320/IMG_0691.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8QYe2jfa_pXpP1phyphenhyphen06nmflSOD07gB6Ho3P-2XUqk2FV8zCum6biVCHxIt2dzZEZhyphenhyphengit7llRNWIiYa_4FlJZAqRyDYDyQnCwswXHwk8yb8_DNY93N0pqDvhR1wEWhTnm8O0beFIcg/s1600/IMG_0692.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm8QYe2jfa_pXpP1phyphenhyphen06nmflSOD07gB6Ho3P-2XUqk2FV8zCum6biVCHxIt2dzZEZhyphenhyphengit7llRNWIiYa_4FlJZAqRyDYDyQnCwswXHwk8yb8_DNY93N0pqDvhR1wEWhTnm8O0beFIcg/s320/IMG_0692.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Lago San Pablo in the distance</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY4oPRp3vY9f5Aqtut-mhOL7tgQMZpfDHTF9_zIrHYMwIY_dVuFtPT03yqMrARXe_BfMkpmtxM47PkbLlJgd-ST6ZGS6c97AuxzTZgjL866Yyn8lV8hqNpk_mtNqkqrc7ya3orxY22Ew/s1600/IMG_0695.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY4oPRp3vY9f5Aqtut-mhOL7tgQMZpfDHTF9_zIrHYMwIY_dVuFtPT03yqMrARXe_BfMkpmtxM47PkbLlJgd-ST6ZGS6c97AuxzTZgjL866Yyn8lV8hqNpk_mtNqkqrc7ya3orxY22Ew/s320/IMG_0695.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">these local kids took a fancy to us</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZClcQWk_rsRY1s9aPmf5c5e2Iulmz4OlO9BBzItlI2JXHgvb6Kl6aqWDhEvFHM9nwnw7eBuxRX24k1J2ksywo5-9xYeXeH6k8ZbP3QM8fkZUDlYEBS7Dd5Hp_XVdpBoAAcSvXvO-wRg/s1600/IMG_0696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZClcQWk_rsRY1s9aPmf5c5e2Iulmz4OlO9BBzItlI2JXHgvb6Kl6aqWDhEvFHM9nwnw7eBuxRX24k1J2ksywo5-9xYeXeH6k8ZbP3QM8fkZUDlYEBS7Dd5Hp_XVdpBoAAcSvXvO-wRg/s320/IMG_0696.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">a fantastic descent here...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWntM63ZDyxd8uoCl8ajB2Wsvv14nn45vadOh_BUjC9zVn5_AoSoEG7NIRE-CJbanTK-NyQzNUsEBKDrMNSs-2_M2myUhHinOX4xFrsK9KBCTc6jHYjx5nhGpZ8nyMVs4fq1cnkkYvtg/s1600/IMG_0697.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWntM63ZDyxd8uoCl8ajB2Wsvv14nn45vadOh_BUjC9zVn5_AoSoEG7NIRE-CJbanTK-NyQzNUsEBKDrMNSs-2_M2myUhHinOX4xFrsK9KBCTc6jHYjx5nhGpZ8nyMVs4fq1cnkkYvtg/s400/IMG_0697.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo3ogfPjW58rJMKFXJjk62DNSGjpTpciEgRCJD8KRhVEDWLAvupJHCWxSk59RrihT9NBvXu1PXHS12UuYPZuOdHfkVnUN1CM9sPkElpb1eTGVza7gbynDcFt54VNXpIGPxQPjRr4VItQ/s1600/IMG_0699.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo3ogfPjW58rJMKFXJjk62DNSGjpTpciEgRCJD8KRhVEDWLAvupJHCWxSk59RrihT9NBvXu1PXHS12UuYPZuOdHfkVnUN1CM9sPkElpb1eTGVza7gbynDcFt54VNXpIGPxQPjRr4VItQ/s320/IMG_0699.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">near Olmedo</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHaYLjgdMfOeY7lOuhiMvso6axmFWg8znSS__amQFgCsIztetGOxjhpqXgA11sCgf9aZHXaM5OplreKHWZWCYtQHj7ZN8R3PFbjd3h_-zm6HlpPodhXAodvcc2PMYVFoeG-Iv-7-nmyQ/s1600/IMG_0700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHaYLjgdMfOeY7lOuhiMvso6axmFWg8znSS__amQFgCsIztetGOxjhpqXgA11sCgf9aZHXaM5OplreKHWZWCYtQHj7ZN8R3PFbjd3h_-zm6HlpPodhXAodvcc2PMYVFoeG-Iv-7-nmyQ/s200/IMG_0700.jpg" width="200" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">street food snack we found in Cayambe: lots of beans, corn, onions, plantain chips </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOOZ3eHJwXuUnP3IxiW7ImVmlus-AePT0UgBpjf7cnVSKvOAgyI90jmVtKcpNfiZA6PPfaM3NUR6A49cgOwPHAd3k6kMmLDpy38lG4P6ks3Iz-YHQVBbL0litQd4OGavbqGyDlFL5pw/s1600/IMG_0702.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOOZ3eHJwXuUnP3IxiW7ImVmlus-AePT0UgBpjf7cnVSKvOAgyI90jmVtKcpNfiZA6PPfaM3NUR6A49cgOwPHAd3k6kMmLDpy38lG4P6ks3Iz-YHQVBbL0litQd4OGavbqGyDlFL5pw/s320/IMG_0702.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">arrived in Cayambe on a Sunday afternoon, there was an indigenous festival going on, with live Andean music:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisfVV9FGwtlKJTedmlGK2u6DE9r2xEL2NiDuAbynCVG3wG0VFIUiaNp_jhRbY7F5Vcoh7vaeR6nss0wzsImRMPwiavZAuIl8TQNh3Pj7N4PdqyjkBHudgSp-ec_E_-kO-YfNAJUwBMWw/s1600/IMG_0704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisfVV9FGwtlKJTedmlGK2u6DE9r2xEL2NiDuAbynCVG3wG0VFIUiaNp_jhRbY7F5Vcoh7vaeR6nss0wzsImRMPwiavZAuIl8TQNh3Pj7N4PdqyjkBHudgSp-ec_E_-kO-YfNAJUwBMWw/s320/IMG_0704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">these guys are getting ready to go onstage</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBEQKFFDF94aDCoWLgbHEHjBlzUv_k7hCdCNs7AUi9Hk26n7uSgUCKqWLzLCt9TXocdfso-3tjkdYyDLOEDABvInlHRgfEduBzjqiYq6klE6sQAXOx59Rgm-gmo9AtQbQZQucqP88JqQ/s1600/IMG_0705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBEQKFFDF94aDCoWLgbHEHjBlzUv_k7hCdCNs7AUi9Hk26n7uSgUCKqWLzLCt9TXocdfso-3tjkdYyDLOEDABvInlHRgfEduBzjqiYq6klE6sQAXOx59Rgm-gmo9AtQbQZQucqP88JqQ/s320/IMG_0705.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">in Cayambe we stayed with the Bomberos</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVFTKfmhnYZCrtZGkjqFQo_mTHNKsh_mlfTSamfq8P-s9bip18_D5HSsbR_36TXjxieOWWTLEd14vKDH0wtsxCax-B4fLHfcGKtqMvxybp6gw4pTnjDtOn5p-IYYyfwEMT31D5agfCg/s1600/IMG_0711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVFTKfmhnYZCrtZGkjqFQo_mTHNKsh_mlfTSamfq8P-s9bip18_D5HSsbR_36TXjxieOWWTLEd14vKDH0wtsxCax-B4fLHfcGKtqMvxybp6gw4pTnjDtOn5p-IYYyfwEMT31D5agfCg/s320/IMG_0711.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">this is what we saw upon waking in the town of Cayambe: the impressive 5790m (18995 ft) volcano of Cayambe, third-highest peak in Ecuador after Chimborazo and Cotopaxi.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuYZ48FCt86moGmx6IhrCUKSapJulSc5qgSrTi8p3XI7SJaelhNsiYCfrhgUHgeKdK79WN5D25heZ40QLXCgGZyNRDLVmgvz2k9IJ2QJvILL6XnjzS1uvv4TvwjB7PPnwLz9lClZAuGw/s1600/IMG_0708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuYZ48FCt86moGmx6IhrCUKSapJulSc5qgSrTi8p3XI7SJaelhNsiYCfrhgUHgeKdK79WN5D25heZ40QLXCgGZyNRDLVmgvz2k9IJ2QJvILL6XnjzS1uvv4TvwjB7PPnwLz9lClZAuGw/s320/IMG_0708.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">standing on, with bike straddling, the equatorial line at Guachala</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXGyJNxv4VpWLqvYBYgp3xzSRSaXAK4-zL0NMgHpVP5OjllJSxZhWliTcW7m5PNLrheM9AYQKd4VDyfTw6s-BGO2u5f70k02fD6seBQJVB05SHhViRjCvgaqow3SBMlZEXoo4mlnjGwQ/s1600/IMG_0710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXGyJNxv4VpWLqvYBYgp3xzSRSaXAK4-zL0NMgHpVP5OjllJSxZhWliTcW7m5PNLrheM9AYQKd4VDyfTw6s-BGO2u5f70k02fD6seBQJVB05SHhViRjCvgaqow3SBMlZEXoo4mlnjGwQ/s320/IMG_0710.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">a fantastic sundial at the equatorial crossing, Cayambe hulking in the distance, time about 7:30 AM.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyBF4oIzMVjxwPzXcTsXOS_SJOmFpa2pADPImjh0amMEjQ44hhMnG4-F_-ujIAKwKqyIStrF7lNKtJ5UFXNFiiPJx7_O4CO63W1VQbuhuSF6piHInNy29YHiGoi8x8AnBv9BkFU9rqHg/s1600/IMG_0712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyBF4oIzMVjxwPzXcTsXOS_SJOmFpa2pADPImjh0amMEjQ44hhMnG4-F_-ujIAKwKqyIStrF7lNKtJ5UFXNFiiPJx7_O4CO63W1VQbuhuSF6piHInNy29YHiGoi8x8AnBv9BkFU9rqHg/s320/IMG_0712.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">riding south, Cayambe in the background</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2wTc-iq0qLmF7EQ8kFKIuFkO0cgfuBDhw8xSVGbgRJMw8aQvdGvhGdiMQs0Fy5Y5scCbBIXBHlqWudBcjrAE7NBLoi1692pYYX9Vb9vozCDybwyMoNfoNZ_n-8cfU9Nfjldj99MstyA/s1600/IMG_0713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2wTc-iq0qLmF7EQ8kFKIuFkO0cgfuBDhw8xSVGbgRJMw8aQvdGvhGdiMQs0Fy5Y5scCbBIXBHlqWudBcjrAE7NBLoi1692pYYX9Vb9vozCDybwyMoNfoNZ_n-8cfU9Nfjldj99MstyA/s320/IMG_0713.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">on our way to Quito, this is the view we had of Cotopaxi</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuIRhysh_3NmQJn1zjL8NtJ2XMpz-bszl6nZC-2uj6NV_kzhuAIICKmZLbZEQBua1ZL494FzVC0sEVzuH47AqR1KFzUVugaUDgrpWwu8Eh5wupMcc6Ar1Vin7EVS6jUt7LjdFmLVL5GQ/s1600/IMG_0714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuIRhysh_3NmQJn1zjL8NtJ2XMpz-bszl6nZC-2uj6NV_kzhuAIICKmZLbZEQBua1ZL494FzVC0sEVzuH47AqR1KFzUVugaUDgrpWwu8Eh5wupMcc6Ar1Vin7EVS6jUt7LjdFmLVL5GQ/s320/IMG_0714.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">arrived in Quito, which was a pure traffic madness, the worst we have seen on the whole trip, we ended up at the Plaza del Teatro in the historic center of the city</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(photos this post: Craig Caparatta)</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>The Folkshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13702654384955077817noreply@blogger.com4