Saturday, January 15, 2011

Interlude: Around León, Nicaragua (December 25, 2010 - January 2, 2011)

We arrived in León, Nicaragua on Christmas Day, with the intention of staying through the New Year.  León is Nicaragua's second biggest city, and features crumbling colonial architecture and what is supposed to be a lively university scene, although when we were there the students were all home for vacation and the city seemed a little vacant.

this bus with the roof sawn off was seen in the main plaza of León, where it arrives every evening it seems.

This street graffiti is saying that all of León supports Daniel Ortega (current president), along with Hugo Chavez and Fidel Castro

from León we headed on a short cycling/hiking trip to the nearby volcano of Telica.

the route featured some excellent mountain biking just after San Jacinto

...this is dawn from a prominent ridge leading to Telica...

an excellent sunrise view of the enormous crater of Telica, and Volcán San Cristobal in the distance

Mike and Rochelle (Australian friend of ours)

another glimpse of the Telica crater in amazing morning light

... it was a 9 hour roundtrip from camp to summit, through varying landscapes.  Jason, Craig and Sonia weren't feeling well, so only Mike, Rochelle and Jeff pushed to the summit ...
the last push up to the summit rim, on a rocky slope with no trail

Rochelle gathered a wildflower bouquet on the way up and sacrificed it into the depths of the crater

Jeff at the Telica crater rim (elevation 1060 meters - low compared to Guatemala volcanoes); that is noxious sulfurous gas filling the crater.  The last big eruption was in 1948.

Mike ponders the new crater (center) and the ancient (foreground left)

we ended this trip absolutely filthy

from Telica, we cycled back to León in time to catch a baseball game later that evening... baseball is the main sport in Nicaragua, while most other Latin countries prefer soccer...

Mike, an avid baseball fan, was an active heckler from these seats and the locals found this to be hilarious

León was playing Granada, and won the game.  The Nicaragua league only has 4 teams!!  The baseball, however, was quality, with many exciting plays and an animated crowd.  Compared to a MLB game, it was like travelling back in time, to when everyone went to the game walking or cycling, and the stadium was local and small enough so that all seats were good seats, and very little commercial advertising, no instant replay, hand-changed scoreboards, etc..  The entrance fee for the bleacher seats was 10 córdobas, or about 45 cents!

if you look in the background of this photo, you will see the free seats obtained by these committed fans



Iglesia de la Recolección, León - one of the more spectacular buildings to be seen in León


Iglesia de San Juan, León

Playa Poneloya near León.  This was New Year's Day, in which nearly all Leoneses head to the beach for the day...

curiously enough, there is no sunbathing or swimming culture, so folks just stand around on the beach with their normal clothes on, or wade in the nearby estuary.  Pictured above is Playa Las Peñitas.

we found fresh fish frying on the scene... 50 Córdobas (a little over two dollars) for a plate of fish and salad.

this fish is called Corvina, and is delicious fried.  After a little research, it seems that this may be called seatrout in English.  

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Segment 28: El Tunco, El Salvador to León, Nicaragua (December 19-25, 2010)

glad to be back on our bikes after a month break, and now heading away from El Tunco, we found relief from the heat in the form of coconuts...
she chopped up about 10 or more cocos for us

in Usulután, El Salvador, eating pupusas...
foreground: Jeff´s four rice pupusas smothered in onions and cabbage; background, Mike gets ready to dig in

this is how they do it (papusas, that is)

resting in Usulután's main plaza, on a hot day

Volcán de San Miguel, El Salvador


On the way to Playa El Cuco, we stopped for a rest after a 9 km climb in the coastal hills of El Salvador.  While resting, an earthquake happened that moved us laterally 6-8 inches, as if the entire covering of forest and plants was a tablecloth being tugged on and returned to its original position. 

from this spot we had a coasting-only race for a 5 km downhill ride.  Mike was to be the clear winner.

fish lunch in El Cuco

El Cuco is a prominent fishing village; here they are drying thousands of fish

...a late afternoon spectacular beach ride...

...on our way to a (stealth) beach camp so we can watch the predicted lunar eclipse

December 21st, 2010.  Winter Solstice, full moon (seen rising here), and later, the total lunar eclipse (not pictured here)... which we watched from our stellar campsite on the beach, and featured a nearly satanic moon, mysteriously red and ephemeral, at 2 AM

the following morning, local fishermen bring in their catch.  They had spent the entire night fishing on the ocean, watching the eclipse while working

local kids help out with the buying and selling of the catch

we bought some of their fish, Pacific mackerel...

... which we grilled up on the beach for breakfast...
...along with a couple of lobsters that the fishermen kicked us down

to see a video of grilling the fish on El Cuco, see the following You Tube link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnAaYlYH7kk

 
we continued along the beach, having to cross this estuary (El Esterón) in dugout canoe
the boatman

Mike and Sonia

on our way to Playa Icacal, beautiful afternoon light

heron seen in the estuary

...more beach riding on Playa Icacal... we discovered later that the whole beach is intended to be an endangered sea turtle sanctuary.  Problem is, we found that beach dogs had been digging up and eating ALL the many of thousands of ruined turtle eggs we saw!


...sunset, December 22, 2010...

sunrise the following morning

Craig and Jason, with the recently full moon still up, as we rolled the first 10 km of the day on Playa Icacal.

... we hit deeper sand...

... and came up against this barrier before Las Tunas

...a local fisherman offered to paddle us across the river for free, warning us of sting rays in the water...
this was a tight fit for 5 bikes and riders

now in Puerto La Union, El Salvador, where Mike starts looking for a boat to Nicaragua.  Here he is helping load a boat with sacks of sand.

Jeff on the other hand opted to cycle to Nicaragua through eastern El Salvador and southern Honduras: 
This was the pan-American highway near the El Salvador-Honduras border.  This image seems more appropriate to West Africa than to El Salvador, with the possible exception of the quality of the highway, and the makes of the cars, of course.

entering Honduras, a country Jeff was in for a little more than 100km and 24 hours

cooling off in a Honduras river on a hot afternoon

a Polish cyclist, Parys, who started his trip in Ushuaia, Argentina in January 2010.  He is only the second south-to-north cyclist we have encountered in this whole trip so far.

a dubious pharmaceutical advertisement seen in Honduras

...the terrain around the border of Honduras-Nicaragua.  It is clear that we are in the dry season now...

in Somotillo, Nicaragua, even water sold on the street is holy

Volcán San Cristobal at sunrise, active crater smoke catching lilac colors, on the way to León

it wasn't long before we saw the first image of Sandino in Nicaragua (on the left).  Augusto César Sandino was a revolutionary and anti-US militant who led rebel campaigns in the late 1920's and early '30's.  He was murdered in 1934, but  was to be the principal inspiration for the later Sandinista movement of the 1960's to present day.  He also influenced the Cuban revolution, mainly for his style of guerrilla warfare.

Volcán San Cristobal seen between Chinandega and León