Ometepe Island is somewhat mythical. Having heard stories for many years about this island in the middle of enormous Lake Nicaragua, with two large volcanoes and tropical forest and low population, we were eager to explore...
the island has a fantastic shape, and the road system, primarily dirt, forms a rough figure eight around the two volcanoes (Volcán Concepción to the west, Volcán Maderas to the east)
our first campsite on Ometepe, next to a banana plantation outside of Moyogalpa
In Moyogalpa, Jeff met up with our friend Tom, and with two others, Daniel (San Diego) and Reto (Swiss), and together we left to cycle around the island. Jason and Sonia stayed in Moyogalpa to await the arrival of Craig, due a few days later...
In Moyogalpa, Jeff met up with our friend Tom, and with two others, Daniel (San Diego) and Reto (Swiss), and together we left to cycle around the island. Jason and Sonia stayed in Moyogalpa to await the arrival of Craig, due a few days later...
first off, we went to climb Volcán Concepción
White-faced monkey seen on the lower slopes of Concepción
...Tom and Daniel watch a magnificent sunset from near our cloud forest campsite near treeline...
A groggy Jeff as we start up for the summit at 4 AM. This was to be quite an adventure, with poor visibility, falling rocks, steep slopes, a few minor getting-losts, dangerous footing, etc.
...first light found us in deep fog... clambering up steep rocky slopes with no clear trail
... at the summit (1610m), in whiteout conditions, and (elatedly) clinging on to the kniferidge in heavy winds, are (above) Jeff, Daniel, and Reto. (below) Tom:
the fog cleared a little as we descended with stupendous views
... fun trail through the forests on the slopes of Ometepe...
this is the house where we had stored our bikes with the amazingly-friendly locals
Tom gave an impromptu ukelele lesson to the kids
after we descended, the skies cleared and later that day this was the view of Concepción
our stealth campsite on the edge of the lake
pesky giant centipede seen on Tom's socks in above campsite
Tom, clearly enjoying the ride as we progress around the island
a morning footbag break, excellent stretching/cross-training activity for riders
White-throated magpie jay, common resident on Ometepe
at San Ramón we briefly reunited with Craig (seen resting here) and Sonia and Jason
girl at breadshop in San Ramón
her pet parrot, a yellow-naped parrot who, from her unseen perch, had greeted us with a raspy "Buenas" (Hello!) as we first entered, leading us to believe a cantankerous senior was in the adjacent room, only to discover that a parrot was talking to us. Unfortunately, there is a black market for pet birds all over central America, and this species is particularly threatened.
fisherman at San Ramón
full moon rising over Lake Nicaragua from San Ramón
our not-so-stealth campsite at the San Ramón emergency helipad
Reto tops out a steep climb
this is how the locals move around
approaching the end of our figure 8 ride, on a brick surface with a great descent
from Ometepe, Jeff briefly returned to Rivas to meet up with a friend Katie (Newcastle, England), and had this very clear view of the two volcanoes
this is the passenger ferry, "Che Guevara"
back on the island, Jeff and Katie are ready for another loop of Ometepe. Katie has rented a mountain bike for $4/day.
impossible not to enjoy this riding (photo C. Murray)
this character spotted at San Marcos
locals washing at San Marcos
Katie rests lakeside with Concepción dominating the scene
sunset from our campsite on the lower slopes of Concepción
effigy of Sandino, painted all over in the town of Altagracia. This is a strong symbol for the governing FSLN party.
this sign says: "Don't buy baby birds from nest-robbers!" The yellow-naped parrot seen previously in San Ramón was a victim of this
Katie with Volcán Maderas in the background
Maderas seen from our lakeside campsite (photo C. Murray)
At Zopilote, where we camped one night, we saw this graffiti scribbled on the lookout tower. In French, it reads "There is nothing so precious in life as the feeling of escape, relief, and absolute freedom." We agree.
sunset view of Volcán Concepción from Zopilote's lookout tower
Our next stop was Finca Magdalena on the slopes of Volcán Maderas, from which we headed out to climb the volcano
we entered cloud forest soon after starting up (photo C. Murray)
Katie working up through the cloud forest
dense ferns and many shades of green
these fellows hang out at the summit's crater lake and beg food from hikers
the crater lake below the summit of Maderas (1364m) (photo C. Murray)
epiphytes all over the forest
epiphytes all over the forest
super muddy trail (photo C. Murray)
afternoon view out towards Concepción
the lower forest of Maderas
petroglyph on Maderas
Finca Magdalena. An old commercial farm, it was converted some 20 years ago into a community tourism project. It is one of the most impressive things we saw on Ometepe: amazingly friendly, many local villagers involved, and 100% Nicaraguan.
the gardens at Finca Magdalena
beans drying roadside
(photo C. Murray)
the finished product: delicious hot fresh plantains served with beet/onion/tomato salsa
(photo C. Murray)
Next off we headed to the waterfall at San Ramón. Along the lower section of trail we found fresh grapefruits in the trees:
